I tend to use them for testing purposes only. Saves you a lot of time from being wasted if your testing a wiring connection, but need it to be easily removable to make a real repair. But hey, if it gets you home at the end of the day, it’ll do
You know, I solder wires daily and _heat travels up_ so you don’t have to burn your table. ;) Tin the iron and heat the top before moving to the bottom. The tin will help transfer heat but gravity forces you to touch from the top first. Once you are under, the surface tension with the solder that already transferred should keep the heat transfer going… but you haven’t added fresh solder with flux so you don’t have a good joint yet. When you do add fresh solder, maintain heat until it has flowed through the strands. Dwelling will burn off all your flux and leave a dull connection so add a touch of flux core solder (or just flux) right before removing the iron. Surface tension will almost immediately draw it through the existing solder and refresh it right before you remove heat to lock in that shiny, wet-looking solder connection. Of course, a responsive digital temperature-controlled iron at the lowest temperature required will do this best (without roasting your insulation).
hey im an electrician and wire nuts will connect the wires just fine, they can be used for any gauge wire, add electrical tape to be safe. cars or houses its just different size wire. My mothers 2015 Dodge durango came stock with wirenuts being used for alot of the wring in it.
As a fully qualified electrical engineer I can tell you now that is not the correct way to bind and solder cables together, they should be twisted together in a straight line not twisted and folded back on itself.
Soldering and heat shrink is the ONLY way I would ever splice any permanent connection. The only type of crimp connector I'll ever use is the spade male/female quick disconnects or ring/lug terminals, and even those I'll throw a bead of solder on if I can w/o damaging the insulation on them. Those crimp on splice terminals have a tendency to work loose due to thermal expansion/contraction eventually corrode and I've seen them burn due to high resistance, a good solder/heat shrink joint will never fail.
no no no ,thats not how you soldier. You want to draw the soldier through the hot wires not by melting in on the iron,just touch both the iron and soldier to the wire
Best way is to use male and female connectors. That way if you ever need a new deck you can remove the aftermarket harness and just replace them on the new deck wiring with new ones without having to remove everything and do it over. Make sure you solder the connectors to the AM harness, they tend to pull off when you pop them loose to change the old harness.
I appreciate the information given in this tutorial, but I'm sorry, the soldering technique is giving me anxiety. The problem here is it can produce a "cold solder" where the solder does not penetrate into the wires and thus can cause instances of more resistance within the power transfer, potentially generating serious issues later on down the road. Still love your videos though, keep it up!
True. They do the same thing. That said, wire nuts can come loose after a lot of driving. If you're going to use them, then I suggest wrapping them, and their wires, in electrical tape.
i have used heat shrink and solder. but if i just want to get the job done quicker i just use wire nuts they are a lot easier to put on. i never had a problem with them. one trick is to twist the wires together by hand first then cut the wires flat on top and then screw the wire nut on. then they won't pull off. if you leave a point they won't be as tight & will pop off. and don't just let the wire nut do the twisting of the wires. the worst way to connect wires is just using electrical tape and twisting them. that is NOT what you want to do. the heat and cold weather will make the tape come off then you will get shorts.
When I install aftermarket stereos I always cut off the original connector, protect the unnecessary wiring with shrinking tube, solder the wires and protect the welds with shrinking tube The vehicle's wiring diagram is used, of course
I've used wire nuts on Basic stock speakers, But with electrical tape around them to add security, but using them like this person did before you fixed it is idiotic.
Wiring harness that goes between car and after market head unit harness has two blue wires, one solid and one with white stripe (amp turn on and antenna wires), while the head unit (after market stereo)harness only has one solid blue wire that the book labels for amp turn on. My question is: can I just connect all three blues, the solid on the head to both the solid and striped on the harness? Or just cap one off? Don’t have an amp and don’t think it’s a power antenna but not 100% sure.
Thanks for the video. My suv has two adapters one with all the colored striped wires, and the other is a square one that has a yellow and black wire. The harness fits in the first one, so I think the only way to connect the power wire to the stereo is if I cut it off the adapter and wire it directly to the stereo. Any thought?
Seriously, what's wrong with wire nuts? On my previous stereo I used butt connectors, but this time I used wire nuts, so much faster & easier, the reason I used them though is, my stepdad is an electrician, and he recommended using them, he said there's a reason they always use wire nuts and not any other type of butt connectors, they don't want to have to go back to fix it later. I know a vehicle is a little different in that it moves, but I seriously doubt it would cause a wire nut to come loose.
I have a pioneer 2 din. Im trying to install in a 02 Durango and the aftermarket harness I have has 2 blue wires. 1 is solid blue & the other is power antenna. The The harness for the pioneer has a blue wire that says power remote (I guess for an amp). So what blue wires NEED to be connected and to what/where?
that is NOT a good soldering there .. you allways put the soldering iron on the BUTTOM of the wire and let the sodder drag down trough the wires . just look at the blobs there .. you can see its has been cold soldered oh and IF you deside to use connectors .. then please FOLD over the tip of the wire 50/50 makes it ALOT stronger
WHat do I do if I have a monsoon system? The harness for my car says it will not work with monsoon systems. I was told I need a pac interface but I dont care about my DIC, I just want to wire the radio and have it work.
Hi I have a 1998 Ford F150 XL 4.2 V6 and when I try to hook up my aftermarket radio I get no power to it when the red wires are put to getter and the yellow wires are put to getter but if I take the yellow wire from the radio and hook it with the red wires I get power but then it will not keep it's memory so what am I doing wrong ?
Good video But not what I need, although I'm also installing a radio to my 98 F-150. Here's my issue: I spent a month trying to find a adapter with ZERO luck. This has forced me to cut off the truck's connector so I can wire it to the new radio's connector. However; my test light is telling me that there are three ground wires. I'm having a dickens of a time sorting it out.
+SEspider We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
This is a terrible example. SMH Soldering iron under the wire. Let the solder pull through the wire and not a big blob in the middle. Also it's called heat shrink. Not fire shrink. Use a heat gun like your supposed to.
@@Ran_Ryaz lol so yellow is constant 12 so for memory backup and alot of the power for the headunit and the red wire is 12 ignition so when the car is in ignition the wire is only then active, u dont put red and yellow together you put red to red and yellow to yellow
Got new pioneer mixtrax 2018 and just got it put in the truck and I can not get power to steore I have checked the power and is live on truck harness and still no power to the stereo
i never liked those cheap all in one wire strippers/crimpers. they never seem to work all that well. and it would also be better to use a heat gun instead of a lighter.
There is nothing wrong with wire nuts. I used them with electrical tapes for my stereo since no mechanic wanted to do it, and i guess it is because I didn't buy their radios android that are overpriced.
Hi, customer here, best store to buy my parts, I have a question, I installed a after market radio in my car but I have very little sound, some say is my amp that can not be trigger by the new stereo, what should I do? Thanks
Anyone know how I would permanently get rid of a single wire tapped into my factory harness after I got rid of the aftermarket stereo job just like this? I’ve just taped it off and cut it like he said and I’m getting a buzz from me new head unit
+Michael baker We currently do not have an auto repair video specifically for your vehicle. We will keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com
+Tall Fellaa Thanks for checking us out. We would not recommend using tape in place of wire nuts as it is not secure enough, and it's vulnerable to damage. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
Wire nuts not good......I've spliced my wires, slid heat shrink tubing over one wire, frayed both wires then "weaved" them into each other then twisted them together so I don't have to use solder then put the heat shrink over them...once I'm done I get a few zip ties and "bundle" the wires for a clean no tangle install..
HEY I GOT A QUESTION, I HAVE A CLARION INDASH THAT IM INSTALLING IN A 2000 GRAND MARQUIS AND MY HEAD UNIT HAS 2 RED WIRES DO THAY BOTH CONNECT TO THE YELLOW CONSTANCE WIRE?
I’m not sure if it’s technically wrong, but I wouldn’t do it because how will it securely thread onto all stranded wires? In a home, at least one wire will always be solid.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
Wire nuts aren't bad there just not meant to use in a car radio installation but sometimes you got to do what you got to do for the tunes
I tend to use them for testing purposes only. Saves you a lot of time from being wasted if your testing a wiring connection, but need it to be easily removable to make a real repair. But hey, if it gets you home at the end of the day, it’ll do
You know, I solder wires daily and _heat travels up_ so you don’t have to burn your table. ;) Tin the iron and heat the top before moving to the bottom. The tin will help transfer heat but gravity forces you to touch from the top first. Once you are under, the surface tension with the solder that already transferred should keep the heat transfer going… but you haven’t added fresh solder with flux so you don’t have a good joint yet. When you do add fresh solder, maintain heat until it has flowed through the strands. Dwelling will burn off all your flux and leave a dull connection so add a touch of flux core solder (or just flux) right before removing the iron. Surface tension will almost immediately draw it through the existing solder and refresh it right before you remove heat to lock in that shiny, wet-looking solder connection.
Of course, a responsive digital temperature-controlled iron at the lowest temperature required will do this best (without roasting your insulation).
hey im an electrician and wire nuts will connect the wires just fine, they can be used for any gauge wire, add electrical tape to be safe. cars or houses its just different size wire. My mothers 2015 Dodge durango came stock with wirenuts being used for alot of the wring in it.
Mr. Banana man There’s a reason why Chrysler products are super unreliable.
@@RicardoCanedoMX: Because they're made by Mitsubishi ?
As a fully qualified electrical engineer I can tell you now that is not the correct way to bind and solder cables together, they should be twisted together in a straight line not twisted and folded back on itself.
That's what I was thinking too that was weird lol
Soldering and heat shrink is the ONLY way I would ever splice any permanent connection. The only type of crimp connector I'll ever use is the spade male/female quick disconnects or ring/lug terminals, and even those I'll throw a bead of solder on if I can w/o damaging the insulation on them.
Those crimp on splice terminals have a tendency to work loose due to thermal expansion/contraction eventually corrode and I've seen them burn due to high resistance, a good solder/heat shrink joint will never fail.
no no no ,thats not how you soldier. You want to draw the soldier through the hot wires not by melting in on the iron,just touch both the iron and soldier to the wire
nah you dont need any soldiers just to install a radio, thats for the battlefield
@@drops8246 😆
Best way is to use male and female connectors. That way if you ever need a new deck you can remove the aftermarket harness and just replace them on the new deck wiring with new ones without having to remove everything and do it over. Make sure you solder the connectors to the AM harness, they tend to pull off when you pop them loose to change the old harness.
I appreciate the information given in this tutorial, but I'm sorry, the soldering technique is giving me anxiety. The problem here is it can produce a "cold solder" where the solder does not penetrate into the wires and thus can cause instances of more resistance within the power transfer, potentially generating serious issues later on down the road. Still love your videos though, keep it up!
Thanks for the very clear explanation. I like the heat shrink.
I take a lighter to the electrical tape to shrink and harden around the wires. It seems to be pretty solid.
Wish I knew about that adapter beforehand. I'm halfway done splicing lol
Bro same….
Better for next time lol
U can use wire nuts on any cars and trucks
vibration is why you should not.
True. They do the same thing.
That said, wire nuts can come loose after a lot of driving. If you're going to use them, then I suggest wrapping them, and their wires, in electrical tape.
@@sespider which in turn makes it completely pointless to use wirenuts lol. So just dont use wire nuts and proboem solved.
i have used heat shrink and solder. but if i just want to get the job done quicker i just use wire nuts they are a lot easier to put on. i never had a problem with them. one trick is to twist the wires together by hand first then cut the wires flat on top and then screw the wire nut on. then they won't pull off.
if you leave a point they won't be as tight & will pop off. and don't just let the wire nut do the twisting of the wires. the worst way to connect wires is just using electrical tape and twisting them. that is NOT what you want to do. the heat and cold weather will make the tape come off then you will get shorts.
When I install aftermarket stereos I always cut off the original connector, protect the unnecessary wiring with shrinking tube, solder the wires and protect the welds with shrinking tube
The vehicle's wiring diagram is used, of course
+Simon the mechanic Thanks for the feedback!
So if there’s a wire I won’t use you can just leave it ?
I've used wire nuts on Basic stock speakers, But with electrical tape around them to add security, but using them like this person did before you fixed it is idiotic.
Wiring harness that goes between car and after market head unit harness has two blue wires, one solid and one with white stripe (amp turn on and antenna wires), while the head unit (after market stereo)harness only has one solid blue wire that the book labels for amp turn on. My question is: can I just connect all three blues, the solid on the head to both the solid and striped on the harness? Or just cap one off? Don’t have an amp and don’t think it’s a power antenna but not 100% sure.
Thanks for the video. My suv has two adapters one with all the colored striped wires, and the other is a square one that has a yellow and black wire. The harness fits in the first one, so I think the only way to connect the power wire to the stereo is if I cut it off the adapter and wire it directly to the stereo. Any thought?
Seriously, what's wrong with wire nuts? On my previous stereo I used butt connectors, but this time I used wire nuts, so much faster & easier, the reason I used them though is, my stepdad is an electrician, and he recommended using them, he said there's a reason they always use wire nuts and not any other type of butt connectors, they don't want to have to go back to fix it later. I know a vehicle is a little different in that it moves, but I seriously doubt it would cause a wire nut to come loose.
+Lazy Prophet Thanks for checking us out!
The guy who wired the truck listening to this dude rip him a new one: 👁👄👁💧
Best tutorial I've seen thanks
Appreciate the help.
I have a pioneer 2 din. Im trying to install in a 02 Durango and the aftermarket harness I have has 2 blue wires. 1 is solid blue & the other is power antenna. The The harness for the pioneer has a blue wire that says power remote (I guess for an amp). So what blue wires NEED to be connected and to what/where?
The first i ever seen wire nuts on car audio, lol,
Mostly i use electrical tape on mine with a zip tie over the tape so heat cannot loosen the tape.
that is NOT a good soldering there .. you allways put the soldering iron on the BUTTOM of the wire and let the sodder drag down trough the wires . just look at the blobs there .. you can see its has been cold soldered oh and IF you deside to use connectors .. then please FOLD over the tip of the wire 50/50 makes it ALOT stronger
Ladosligese can you make a video
How do you match the ones in the harness to the ones in the car that more than half are not the same color
You have to check the wiring diagrams and see what they do.
What happens if you do cross the red with the yellow? Would it still work?
That what I had to do...
The one problem i see when soldering and using those tubings is that there is no way to actually remove them,you have to cut the wire.
What would you use instead of soldering?
WHat do I do if I have a monsoon system? The harness for my car says it will not work with monsoon systems. I was told I need a pac interface but I dont care about my DIC, I just want to wire the radio and have it work.
Hi I have a 1998 Ford F150 XL 4.2 V6 and when I try to hook up my aftermarket radio I get no power to it when the red wires are put to getter and the yellow wires are put to getter but if I take the yellow wire from the radio and hook it with the red wires I get power but then it will not keep it's memory so what am I doing wrong ?
Good video
But not what I need, although I'm also installing a radio to my 98 F-150.
Here's my issue:
I spent a month trying to find a adapter with ZERO luck. This has forced me to cut off the truck's connector so I can wire it to the new radio's connector.
However; my test light is telling me that there are three ground wires.
I'm having a dickens of a time sorting it out.
+SEspider We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto
Thanks and sorry for late reply. Just now seeing it.
I've figured it out. Old original radio had multiple ground wires.
Wha if car has cunbus system nd try to get signal for audio for signal upgrade audio ? Will that mess up the car cunbus system ? Ty
How do I get my radio reception to work better I only get 3 clear fm stations
So two two grounds together and not attached to the vehicle?
This is a terrible example. SMH Soldering iron under the wire. Let the solder pull through the wire and not a big blob in the middle. Also it's called heat shrink. Not fire shrink. Use a heat gun like your supposed to.
Do you hook the red n yellow together
Did you find the answer to this?
@@Mike-pd7uv did you find the answer
@@Ran_Ryaz I didn't find the answer. Did you find the answer?
@@Mike-pd7uv no still searching I have everything hook up but can't find out where the red wire go
@@Ran_Ryaz lol so yellow is constant 12 so for memory backup and alot of the power for the headunit and the red wire is 12 ignition so when the car is in ignition the wire is only then active, u dont put red and yellow together you put red to red and yellow to yellow
Can I connect the FM Antenna blue cable to the blue wire with white that connects to the amp??? 4:10??
Got new pioneer mixtrax 2018 and just got it put in the truck and I can not get power to steore I have checked the power and is live on truck harness and still no power to the stereo
I need help
They actually have customer service unlike rock auto.
I've never had problems with Rock auto customer service. Your experiences don't equal to everyone's
Thank you so much for your help my friend, My God help us!
+Sait Saatcigil Thanks for checking us out. 1AAuto.com
Lol
my cars speakers have all the grounds connected is that normal
The guy (or gal!) that did the wiring job when he sees this video: 💀
i never liked those cheap all in one wire strippers/crimpers. they never seem to work all that well. and it would also be better to use a heat gun instead of a lighter.
There is nothing wrong with wire nuts. I used them with electrical tapes for my stereo since no mechanic wanted to do it, and i guess it is because I didn't buy their radios android that are overpriced.
vibration is why you should not
Hi, customer here, best store to buy my parts, I have a question, I installed a after market radio in my car but I have very little sound, some say is my amp that can not be trigger by the new stereo, what should I do? Thanks
Do you have a remote turn on wire going from a switched source to your amps remote?
Anyone know how I would permanently get rid of a single wire tapped into my factory harness after I got rid of the aftermarket stereo job just like this? I’ve just taped it off and cut it like he said and I’m getting a buzz from me new head unit
If it worked how it was id leave it
Until you’re car catches on fire
Do you have to solder the wires
+lI-Death ToYou-Il Great question! Check out our library for more videos here: 1aau.to/m/video-library-c
Do you have a video of this job on a 2000 to 2006 Impala
+Michael baker We currently do not have an auto repair video specifically for your vehicle. We will keep this request in mind in the event that we need to make this repair in the future. 1aauto.com
He said green is left front and white is right front is supposed to be the other way around
What if i dont have wire nuts, could i use electrical tape?
+Tall Fellaa Thanks for checking us out. We would not recommend using tape in place of wire nuts as it is not secure enough, and it's vulnerable to damage. Please let us know if you have any further questions, thank you!
Wire nuts not good......I've spliced my wires, slid heat shrink tubing over one wire, frayed both wires then "weaved" them into each other then twisted them together so I don't have to use solder then put the heat shrink over them...once I'm done I get a few zip ties and "bundle" the wires for a clean no tangle install..
+Anton Schneider Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
HEY I GOT A QUESTION, I HAVE A CLARION INDASH THAT IM INSTALLING IN A 2000 GRAND MARQUIS AND MY HEAD UNIT HAS 2 RED WIRES DO THAY BOTH CONNECT TO THE YELLOW CONSTANCE WIRE?
use a multimeter.
thats the worst way to solder omg.
Why is it wrong to use wire nuts?
George nothing its fine
I’m not sure if it’s technically wrong, but I wouldn’t do it because how will it securely thread onto all stranded wires? In a home, at least one wire will always be solid.
If u use them tape them all the vibration from the road makes them fall off
@@justinedie191 i have use tape on every radio i installed on my cars,never had any problems
Where’s the flux?
even the after was pretty bad...