Thank you very much, this morning I did it to my civic and it really worked immediately, there is no check engine light, I am happy, thank you very much again and best regards from the Dominican Republic
@@juampy1995 si hermano, luego de que me hice eso, borre el código con un escáner, si no tienes uno, quítale un borne a la batería y espera por lo menos media hora, luego prueba el carro, más nunca me ha fallado y han pasado varios meses
Thanks for your video. If I had seen this first, I would probably have solved it without replacing both Vtec sensor and Vtec OP sensor. Oreilly told me that about 90% of the time the problem is the Vtec sensor needs replaced, but maybe just that the old screen is clogged with dirty oil. In my case, when I replaced it, the old screen was not clogged at all, so I couldn't figure out why I kept getting P1259. But following your video, I bypassed the wiring problem I probably had with the OP sensor not grounding, by connecting in series from the OP sensor negative to the Vtec sensor positive, now it hums past 4000 rpm no sweat.
I've been having a issue with my vtec on my 2002 honda after I did the head gasket. I changed the vtec solenoid with a new one the check engine light came back on. Today I was driving home and lost power and the cam sensor came on due to the vtec . Today I came home and I tried this idea and it worked great no more check engine and I was able to smog the car today as well for registration renewal. Thank you for the information 🙏.
I went ahead and pulled off the valve cover and took off the vtec solenoid and put air threw the 3 ports on the cylinder head. One of the cam bolts wasn't tighten all the way by the machine shop I was loosing oil pressure to the vtec that fixed the problem. This mod work is you can't fix the problem.
Thats awesome.. I've been working for 2 years to fix that problem and your explanation made it to 30 minutes fix. Thank you a lot. I aprecciate this knowledge
Thanks for the video. I just finished swapping my engine to JDM D17A and couldn't understand why I was having this issue. When I went to look for the oil pressure sensor there was none to be found! Turns out that D17A doesn't have an oil pressure Sensor! I swapped the Vtech Assy and now it's good.
nice, i have the same problem with my 2003 ex, now which 2 wires you connect together the positive of both wires from the solenoid and the oil switch???
just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. Then they work together in "series"
Hi, so it’s either the solenoid wire or the oil pressure switch is not working? Is that why you spliced it? I have a P1259 code on mine and already replace vtec solenoid twice and same code keep popping up. Thanks for the reply!
Thank you very much for doing a lot of research etc... But please get someone to do the camera work separately. Again thanks for the informational videos.
I have a 2002 Honda Accord and spliced a wire to the VTech solonoid and then spliced that wire to the oil pressure switch both positive wires. I have enough oil in the car and the solonoid is good. Also there is power to both connectors. But the problem is still there. Do you have any recommendations on what to do next to fix it.
just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. Then they work together in "series"
It wasn't the solenoid that was bad. For some reason my oil wasn't being cooled properly (the coolant temp was fine) and when the oil pressure dropped it showed the check engine light. Don't know what caused this but what I do know is that my engine is no seized and I replaced almost everything on the car just to scrap it
Can I ask a question? Would the pressure switch or safety switch which ever it's called, if its broken and the the electrical wire not attached cause the vtech to choke or buck while driving?
Sooo I own a 2000 Accord EX 4cyl and I keep getting p1259 code, I replaced my Vtech solenoid/ checked oil level/ changed the oil/new ECU and I’m still getting the code. My car does the same exact thing as yours (Vtech doesn’t engage/ car bogs/ check engine light) sooo just from looking at your video I’m assuming with my car it must be a signal problem/ short in the signal wire to engage Vtech and that’s how you found the problem by bypassing the Vtech signal wire, am I correct?
Yes he's correct. I had same problem as you -- why Honda didn't just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive, I'll never know. They have to work together after all anyway.
What two wires do you have connected? Are you just bypassing the oil pressure switch on the vtec solenoid? Did you replace any parts are just repair wires? I would really appreciate your help. Thank you!
@@nestorautorepair just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. Then they work together in "series".
I haven't a p1259 code on a 1998 Honda Accord EX vtec 2.3l. It changed the oil and and put a brand new solenoid assembly and oil pressure sensor. Volts is good to selenoid (11.5v). Continuity is good in oil pressure sensor. I am still getting p1259. Your method wiring in this video, will this fix the problem?
yooooooooooo.,.... did you cut the vtech wire and reconnect it to the oil switch for power,.. i have the same problem i used split connectors to connect the blue wire to the vtech wire and nothing, ??? what wires did you cut and connect to???
I tried all the fixes. Changed selinoid, oil pressure sensor, even bought the whole unit. And still have problems. Can you give a step by step in writing? Especially the wiring to a jumper battery in the passenger seat. Is that just for troubleshooting? Or you will have to permanently leave it there? It seemed a little confusing to me. A step by step just for what is needed for direct wiring would be great!
So I have a 2001 Honda accord, I did an oil change and it took away the code for about 2 months, now it's back and i checked my oil level when the car was cold and its dry on the oil stick .. any suggestions?
I also know it's not the solenoid or oil pressure switch bc all I did was an oil change and it fixed the issue for about 2 months now the issue is back and car bogs around 4k rpm
just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. I'm not going to replace the ECU when this fix is so easy. First you should check the oil is full and not dirty, and remove the Vtec solenoid/OP sensor unit and check the screen on the gasket isn't clogged. If it is, just clean it with solvent. There's also a vid about testing the plunger on the Vtec solenoid by jumping to your battery positive.
I have honda accord 2008. The VTEC solenide dose not engage but i fix new solenide still i ve the issue when rpm gose above 3000. Please i need ur suggestion
No wire to ECU,, the problem with this car was no gas pedal respond when VTEC was supposed to kit on,, so yes all I did was concerned the oil pressure switch with the VTEC wire.done now the car runs good,, hope this help you
So the problem was, there was a break in the signal wire to the vtec solenoid? I have a 2003 si, has same issue and code, but the solenoid has a signal wire and a ground wire, I dont know how to bypass
I wired like it shows. I think. My engine light went off and it passed emissions. But at 5000 rpm it cuts out and back fires. Before the rewire it would cut out at 2500 rpm.
I did this bypass and my check engine light came on as soon as I take off. Did not fix the issue. I’m not sure what’s going on with my 94 accord 5spd. The symptoms are exactly what is described in the video
@@nestorautorepair I’m thinking the same thing. Ordered a fuel filter. My exhaust manifold/headers has a leak also....when I did a sea foam treatment smoke was coming from it I noticed
Do NOT connect positive to positive, just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. Then they work together in "series"
My vtec selenoid socket is black & green. While my OP sensor socket is green & red. Did you mean combined black & red? I couldn't find blue color at both socket. But the blue only at the below of the vtech selenoid bolt nut. Please..help me.
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you are a genius, my problem was solved after so long, no mechanic found the error, thanks for sharing your knowledge, excellent video.
Thanks boss , 🙏
Thank you very much, this morning I did it to my civic and it really worked immediately, there is no check engine light, I am happy, thank you very much again and best regards from the Dominican Republic
Coño gracias , yo tambien soy Dominicano de El seibo y tu?
@@nestorautorepair hey brother, soy de santo domingo, después que le hice eso al carro, más nunca me prendió el check engine , activo!!
@@esmelinterreroe.5007bro se borró el check y funciona el vtec como lo haría normalmente?
@@juampy1995 si hermano, luego de que me hice eso, borre el código con un escáner, si no tienes uno, quítale un borne a la batería y espera por lo menos media hora, luego prueba el carro, más nunca me ha fallado y han pasado varios meses
Thanks for your video. If I had seen this first, I would probably have solved it without replacing both Vtec sensor and Vtec OP sensor. Oreilly told me that about 90% of the time the problem is the Vtec sensor needs replaced, but maybe just that the old screen is clogged with dirty oil. In my case, when I replaced it, the old screen was not clogged at all, so I couldn't figure out why I kept getting P1259. But following your video, I bypassed the wiring problem I probably had with the OP sensor not grounding, by connecting in series from the OP sensor negative to the Vtec sensor positive, now it hums past 4000 rpm no sweat.
Lol no sweat ,, good thanks for your feedback boss I'm so happy you fix it using one of my video
I've been having a issue with my vtec on my 2002 honda after I did the head gasket. I changed the vtec solenoid with a new one the check engine light came back on. Today I was driving home and lost power and the cam sensor came on due to the vtec . Today I came home and I tried this idea and it worked great no more check engine and I was able to smog the car today as well for registration renewal. Thank you for the information 🙏.
Your welcome thanks for the feedback!
I went ahead and pulled off the valve cover and took off the vtec solenoid and put air threw the 3 ports on the cylinder head. One of the cam bolts wasn't tighten all the way by the machine shop I was loosing oil pressure to the vtec that fixed the problem. This mod work is you can't fix the problem.
Thanks for sharing
Worked great on my 2002 Honda Civic EX. No more code and it revs over 4k just fine. Thanks!
Your welcome boss, thanks for your feedback
Thats awesome.. I've been working for 2 years to fix that problem and your explanation made it to 30 minutes fix. Thank you a lot. I aprecciate this knowledge
You're welcome boss , thanks for your feedback 🙏
Man!!! Impressed! I had the same codes for egr and vtec, check engine comes on at 4k. Im doing the splice tonight!!! Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I just finished swapping my engine to JDM D17A and couldn't understand why I was having this issue. When I went to look for the oil pressure sensor there was none to be found! Turns out that D17A doesn't have an oil pressure Sensor! I swapped the Vtech Assy and now it's good.
Hey I glad is good now your welcome,, thanks for the feedback
Some vtec come with combined sensor..some are come with separate.
As I was doing your trick I touched the oil pressure blue wire to a positive and it sparked. Does it normally do this? Thanks
nice, i have the same problem with my 2003 ex, now which 2 wires you connect together the positive of both wires from the solenoid and the oil switch???
Yes sir , also thanks for the feedback
just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. Then they work together in "series"
Does this bypass put the engine in vtec all the time? Do the valves still run on the smaller camshaft lobes when under 3000 rpm?
Hi, so it’s either the solenoid wire or the oil pressure switch is not working? Is that why you spliced it? I have a P1259 code on mine and already replace vtec solenoid twice and same code keep popping up. Thanks for the reply!
Solucioneste tu problema con el truco del vídeo ?
Thank you very much for doing a lot of research etc... But please get someone to do the camera work separately. Again thanks for the informational videos.
🫣👍
I have a 2002 Honda Accord and spliced a wire to the VTech solonoid and then spliced that wire to the oil pressure switch both positive wires. I have enough oil in the car and the solonoid is good. Also there is power to both connectors. But the problem is still there. Do you have any recommendations on what to do next to fix it.
At this point I can only think a bad ECU or not the correct one if you just got the car
just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. Then they work together in "series"
It wasn't the solenoid that was bad. For some reason my oil wasn't being cooled properly (the coolant temp was fine) and when the oil pressure dropped it showed the check engine light. Don't know what caused this but what I do know is that my engine is no seized and I replaced almost everything on the car just to scrap it
You ever figure this out?
Can I ask a question? Would the pressure switch or safety switch which ever it's called, if its broken and the the electrical wire not attached cause the vtech to choke or buck while driving?
This is how you troubleshoot. Good shiii
Thanks Damon
Sooo I own a 2000 Accord EX 4cyl and I keep getting p1259 code, I replaced my Vtech solenoid/ checked oil level/ changed the oil/new ECU and I’m still getting the code. My car does the same exact thing as yours (Vtech doesn’t engage/ car bogs/ check engine light) sooo just from looking at your video I’m assuming with my car it must be a signal problem/ short in the signal wire to engage Vtech and that’s how you found the problem by bypassing the Vtech signal wire, am I correct?
Yes sir correct
Yes he's correct. I had same problem as you -- why Honda didn't just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive, I'll never know. They have to work together after all anyway.
@@michaelbradley1636 this comment actually helped answer my question I was about to ask thanks
Ok
What two wires do you have connected? Are you just bypassing the oil pressure switch on the vtec solenoid? Did you replace any parts are just repair wires? I would really appreciate your help. Thank you!
So the problem with this car was ,, every time you take off the car will hesitate trying to hit VTEC,, so yes I bypass it to the oil pressure switch
@@nestorautorepair just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. Then they work together in "series".
@@michaelbradley1636 what color is the positive on solenoid
what did u do to fix the solenoid? just replaced mine and still get the p1259
I haven't a p1259 code on a 1998 Honda Accord EX vtec 2.3l. It changed the oil and and put a brand new solenoid assembly and oil pressure sensor. Volts is good to selenoid (11.5v). Continuity is good in oil pressure sensor. I am still getting p1259. Your method wiring in this video, will this fix the problem?
It fix it for this Honda that I work on ,, lets hope it fix your as well give it a try
Yo Rocco did you try it and did it work I have same exact car and just stumbled upon this i wanna know if itll work
I'm sure it will just try it out
So do I add a wire going from vtech to oil switch or I just cut the vtech wire going to ecu and just splice it into oil switch
@@nestorautorepair sorry I'm just doing it on my own and want to do it correctly
yooooooooooo.,.... did you cut the vtech wire and reconnect it to the oil switch for power,.. i have the same problem i used split connectors to connect the blue wire to the vtech wire and nothing, ??? what wires did you cut and connect to???
I connect it to the oil switch pressure wire
The the blue wire on the switch to which color wire on the vtec silonoide?
They both have only 1 wire each
I tried all the fixes. Changed selinoid, oil pressure sensor, even bought the whole unit. And still have problems. Can you give a step by step in writing? Especially the wiring to a jumper battery in the passenger seat. Is that just for troubleshooting? Or you will have to permanently leave it there? It seemed a little confusing to me. A step by step just for what is needed for direct wiring would be great!
Yes sure watch the video from 11:38 you will see what I did
just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway
@@michaelbradley1636 what color is the v tech positive
I don’t understand how he did it either, just because he said he spliced such and such wire does not mean I know which one it is
Lol oil pressure switch wire boss
So I have a 2001 Honda accord, I did an oil change and it took away the code for about 2 months, now it's back and i checked my oil level when the car was cold and its dry on the oil stick .. any suggestions?
I also know it's not the solenoid or oil pressure switch bc all I did was an oil change and it fixed the issue for about 2 months now the issue is back and car bogs around 4k rpm
Mmmm sound like there is a leak or the engine is consuming oil , just add oil and the problem will go away again , try using thinker oil
Which pins are the vtec solenoid, and oil pressure sensor on the ECU?
Did a engine swap. LX to Ex
And which connector is it on?
I have a manual
Oh boy I don't remember of too of my head but here is a link
images.app.goo.gl/2kMVuLY5yJW6Dn8F9
just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. I'm not going to replace the ECU when this fix is so easy. First you should check the oil is full and not dirty, and remove the Vtec solenoid/OP sensor unit and check the screen on the gasket isn't clogged. If it is, just clean it with solvent. There's also a vid about testing the plunger on the Vtec solenoid by jumping to your battery positive.
I bought a d17a 2003 and when I went to look at the vtec it was unplugged and I don’t know where to plug it in, any help?
I have honda accord 2008. The VTEC solenide dose not engage but i fix new solenide still i ve the issue when rpm gose above 3000. Please i need ur suggestion
Try replacing the oil pressure switch
Bro still i have same issue
Than you have a wiring problem some where bro
@@nestorautorepair tnx a lot i will try that too
My solenoid is still ok, would i just do the same as youthen? Im gonna attemp the same bypass but could you help out with exatly where you spliced?
At 12:10 on the video I say to spliced the VTEC wire with the oil pressure switch,, that's all you need,, thanks
@@nestorautorepair so you never had to wire into the ecu?? Just connected a wire between the vtec solenoid and the oil pressure switch ?
No wire to ECU,, the problem with this car was no gas pedal respond when VTEC was supposed to kit on,, so yes all I did was concerned the oil pressure switch with the VTEC wire.done now the car runs good,, hope this help you
@@nestorautorepair yes i just completed the splice and woohooooo it worked!! no more check engine light. P1259 has been a real pain in the ass lol
Oh wow I'm so happy it worked for you bro ,, thanks for the feedback
So the problem was, there was a break in the signal wire to the vtec solenoid? I have a 2003 si, has same issue and code, but the solenoid has a signal wire and a ground wire, I dont know how to bypass
Mmmmm Yes I think in your case it might need a VTEC solenoid,, test it first
@@nestorautorepair I replaced the solenoid, switch and sensor.. still getting the code and cant rev past 4k rpm
I wired like it shows. I think. My engine light went off and it passed emissions. But at 5000 rpm it cuts out and back fires. Before the rewire it would cut out at 2500 rpm.
Nice!
This bypass system any case in vtec or performance?
I will say yes but only if is not working correctly
Will this work on 99 civic
Yes sir
What code is the car throwing?
This one ?
I did this bypass and my check engine light came on as soon as I take off. Did not fix the issue. I’m not sure what’s going on with my 94 accord 5spd. The symptoms are exactly what is described in the video
Wow maybe you a gas problem
@@nestorautorepair I’m thinking the same thing. Ordered a fuel filter. My exhaust manifold/headers has a leak also....when I did a sea foam treatment smoke was coming from it I noticed
Do NOT connect positive to positive, just connect the Vtec OP sensor negative (blue) straight to the Vtec solenoid positive. They have to work together after all anyway. Then they work together in "series"
What color is the vtech solenoid positive ?
@@michaelbradley1636what color is vtech solenoid positive ?
Tengo el problema honda civic 03 vitec p1259 ya lo cambié ya puse nivel aceite y el problema persiste que paso puede ser?
My vtec selenoid socket is black & green. While my OP sensor socket is green & red. Did you mean combined black & red?
I couldn't find blue color at both socket.
But the blue only at the below of the vtech selenoid bolt nut.
Please..help me.
Did you deleted the oil pressure sensor ?
Unplug the OP sensor socket, but joint the blue to the green wire from the vtec sensor?
Your connection is not clear ,how did you connect to the solenoid
At 12 :00 I explain how and what I Connect
I'm confused its reving out but vtech doesn't look to be working still.
This stupid code is pissing me off, my stupid ass car keeps stalling at 4000 rpm’s so fn frustrating. And I still can’t find the problem
Wow
Mins is still not rev passing 4k and no vtec did u figure out the problem
Having same issue,2001honda accord lx 2.3. 😔 Very aggravating......🤬
This did not fix my Vtec problem I checked the vtec solenoid and is good need help!
Run a wire inside the car and see if it get power when the VTEC kicks in,, it can also be your connection harness at the VTEC
Hola desde 🇺🇸 si necesita conectar Al +