You all prolly dont care but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid forgot the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Briar Atlas I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Please take the engine out, inspect and rebuild as it should. F20C is such a great motor. Even better with the itb's. That will be an insane episode with loads of audience
The rod material you found is disturbing, but the metal on the oil drain plug is worse in my opinion. Bearing material is typically made of bronze, aluminum, and copper type materials and won't stick to a magnet. Steel and iron will, and that's what rods and cranks are made out of.
They do stick to magnets, i remove all broken bearings from engines on a daily basis by using a magnet, it would be very hard to remove material from the crank or rods, only by constant grinding motion, and then there would not be any material only microscopic dust. A broken bearing causes the crank journal to be reshaped to the broken bearing, a simple grind with over-sized shells can fix any crank as long as its tolerances are ok.
Just pull out the motor and give it a refresh. New bearing, gaskets, stuff like that. It'll be cheaper than another used one and you can also be sure that it's in good condition.
The F series motors are unreasonably expensive compared to the K series motors. Unfortunately, it seems like at high mileages, the F series is prone to losing compression and all sorts of garbage. How many miles do you have your car? When you guys got it, it looked pretty shoddy. Is it a clean title?
I am sad that the Bass2k is broken but I happy I get to see more of this build. Still my favorite project of yours to date, although the Kswapped civic is pretty F'in sweet too.
Its going to be the middle main bearing, it happen to my f20c. If your lucky you will be able to polish the crank, new bearings, and reinstall. Just a Fyi, king now makes some badass bearings for the F20c. IF you are going to swap it J2F!
hopefully it's not to bad and you guys can get back to the track soon. Just a word of advice is easier to pull the motor and Trans together. Also the clutch fork if not pulled will not allow the motor and Trans to separate.
Man that sucks, just seems like one motor after another with you guys- which really sucks because you guys are one of the most knowledgeable channels on yt and one of few that do things the right way
Just a suggestion for cutting open filters. If you use a cut off wheel or reciprocating saw, you may add metal to the filter that wasn't there beforehand. On the other hand, without the filter cutting tool it can bring out the rage. Nice catch on the bearing. Can't wait to see what the issue is.
I am glad to hear you're leaning towards rebuilding the engine. I was really looking forward to seeing how the car ran on the track this summer. Oh well, I guess I'll look forward to more videos on how you guys get the car back to the track with a proper 'f' engine in it. So, when you launch the new videos, will they be titled Battered-ass 2000?
the ass2000 never fails to fail... and if you guys wanna swap it put in something unique, like a 2 stroke motor or a jet engine. that would make sense.
Look at the bright side. Whenever something breaks on your racecar that just gives you an excuse to replace the broken parts with an upgrade! And while it's all apart maybe more upgrades because hey, you're already in there already right?
This has all the classic symptoms of a failed crankshaft thrust bearing. Easy to diagnose, confirm or eliminate, just check the crank end-play clearance. With that amount of metal in the oil, the failed bearing should be easy to detect by simply rotating the crank back and forth in a short rocking motion by hand and detecting the ones with excess clearance by feel. All of that RTV is not good in the oil stream either, we have almost completely banned the use RTV silicone in our shop and use either anaerobic gasket maker/sealer or Hylomar sparingly as a replacement. Any excess anaerobic material will dissolve in the oil and since it is a large enough particle the oil filter captures it on the first circulation pass. The trick is to not have excess sealer that can get in the oil stream.
I don’t know that anybody mention this but besides the valve retainers being in need of update to a ap2 retainers, the banjo bolts oil jets needs to be updated to ap2s as well.
You have to look into the inner part of the pleats of the filter to find what it is catching. Easiest thing to do is just pull the filter material out of the cage. Also as mentioned by others, you need to pull the crank and polish the journals.
Last month I got a rod knock on my s2000 but I will be going with the same f20c because I don't want to affect 50/50 weight distribution of the car the makes it handle like it does, you guys should get a stroker kit or another f20c.
That means the screen is doing its job, nothing to worry about. My Honda Accord has it too and runs like new. You’ll see it too when you change your oil.
Had the exact same thing happen to me... Spun bearing from a stupid low oil state while on track.... Got an f22 and good aftermarket oil wintage tray...
Please do a full tear down. Even better a rebuild vid. My f20just killed itself on the way to the nurbergring :( I was to late getting it off the autobahn and heard it go. Fingers crossed I can rebuild it.
RTV couldn't get past the filter on the oil pickup, and amazingly enough the oil pickup wasn't clogged with RTV. What you see in the video just fell off the block into the pan during removal.
often times, when you have a valve cover blasted, the blast media will get trapped in the pcv baffle in the valve cover. if you don't thoroughly clean the baffle, you'll be chasing your tail trying to figure out why you keep frying bearings.
I would ditch that Canton oil pan. The OEM pan is not only designed for heat dissipation, it is also designed to be structural. A OEM pan with baffle plate works just fine and is very well proven.
I record and post my oil changes of my integra, and I've seen shavings recently, but your engine is 5x worse.. sucks too see this :( also I'm a wussy, I would still use a jack stand under that car while using that baby lift
K-swap s2k's are awesome, stoker 2.4F-series are amazing, but there's only a couple J-swap s2k's and not much documentation on any of them. Would LOVE to see a J-swap. I'll give you a killer deal on my wife's piot.
If it is an ap1, have you replaced the banjo bolts? This could cause oil starve to cyl 4. Also pull the valve cover to see if your valve retainers are showing cracks.
OK so if it's a vtec issue it might be located in the head. Word on the street is you can bolt on an H22 head on that block and boost up to 800hp.Go with a conservative 450hp and sell the jenvey itbs to pay for the hardware.
if you guys to rebuilt the engine, you should replace the main bearing bolts to an ap2 because those have 4 holes for the banjo bolts instead of 2 in the ap1. www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/oil-bolt-install-w-pics-102067/
I realize that this engine is long gone and has been swapped, but I think it would be awesome to see this car with a stroker kit and a Kraftwerks supercharger kit.
maybe your valvoline oil was too thin? you put 0w-30 havent you?. Same thing happened to me.....car sat over the winter and when i took it for a drive it created a nasty vibration when i pulled hard through 1st and second gear......(i have a video/sound on youtube).....vtec was clogged, 2nd rod bearing was spun, an all and i mean ALL main bearings were dead. Bought a new engine now F20c2. I used Castrol 5w30, now with new engine im back on Motul 5w40 :)
there is more to oil than pressure, what are your oil temps at the track? what viscosity are you using? and are you running an oil cooler? all this stuff matters on track.
Btw 70 psi hot sounds way too high. I just asked a tech at my work at an acura dealership who also used to work at Honda and he says it should be around 15-20 psi hot, you may have blockage post oil pressure sensor and having starvation problems.
oil temps are fine on track, 220-230 max. We're running Valvoline Pro-V 30 weight. Oil pressure at idle with our gauge and the sending unit at the oil filter sandwich adapter is around 30psi hot. At WOT it's 90psi hot. At startup it's 80-100 psi cold. Off throttle on the track it's 70 psi hot. 15-20 psi hot at idle is pretty normal for Hondas as read by the OE sending unit, but pressures read higher at the filter like our aftermarket gauge is setup for.
If there's visible metal on any part of the oil system, that's a very bad sign the motor is getting close to toast. Normal wear shouldn't be eye visible.
You know, this could even be an opportunity for some higher compression pistons, and stronger rods to boot. Since it'll be apart and all, why not? (besides the financial side of course)
rebuild, go k24, or go j35, not enough motors out there so don't go thinning out the supply please!! I say this for selfish reasons because I have a high mileage s2000
Hey does anyone know where I can buy that hydraulic jack setup?? My dad has a small shop and it would be great for him and me as well, please someone let me know, thanks
Hey ive owned an 02 S for 2 years now and ive researched that the honda si oil filter are better than K&N oil filter. There is significantly less oil burn with the si filter Just a quick tip for the S Heads
Speed Academy the thing that killed the car is the oil you are using. That viscosity doesn't handle heat very well on the track. for normal driving is perfect but for track days it doesn't work as good. In the track go for a higher viscosity ( 15 w 40 or 20 w50). these handle better the heat.
With that jack, LOWER it onto the lock instead of relying on the hydraulics. Then you could even disconnect the lines to get them out of your way if needed. And not to mention its a little safer. Never trust anything hydraulic with your life
I actually damaged my quick jack system really badly today while moving a washing machine. Very deep cut that was spewing fluid like crazy. Remember people, if you don't use a tool for it's intended purpose damage can occur. imgur.com/a/uz8oO
Your attitude makes you two one of my favorite youtubers!
DoctorMaddix you should look up mayhem inc on youtube there new zealanders messn with cars good as guys crack up only has 10k sub desevers way more
You all prolly dont care but does anyone know a method to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Flynn Braylon Instablaster :)
@Briar Atlas I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Briar Atlas It worked and I now got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thank you so much you really help me out !
Please take the engine out, inspect and rebuild as it should. F20C is such a great motor. Even better with the itb's. That will be an insane episode with loads of audience
absolutely going to do a full teardown and inspection.
The rod material you found is disturbing, but the metal on the oil drain plug is worse in my opinion. Bearing material is typically made of bronze, aluminum, and copper type materials and won't stick to a magnet. Steel and iron will, and that's what rods and cranks are made out of.
yea, that's crank journal 'batter' right there. And a Main Bearing 'knock' is a strange noise to hear well on a louder car(noisy exhaust, etc.)
They do stick to magnets, i remove all broken bearings from engines on a daily basis by using a magnet, it would be very hard to remove material from the crank or rods, only by constant grinding motion, and then there would not be any material only microscopic dust. A broken bearing causes the crank journal to be reshaped to the broken bearing, a simple grind with over-sized shells can fix any crank as long as its tolerances are ok.
Copper does react to a very strong magnetic field to create energy (Shake light). But it isn't actually "magnetic". So I've read...
@@dirtybeatzuk3292 copper isnt magnetic this is a fact.
Just pull out the motor and give it a refresh. New bearing, gaskets, stuff like that. It'll be cheaper than another used one and you can also be sure that it's in good condition.
It'd be good to run it by the machine shop to square again.
most likely that's what we'll do
Hope the crank is in good shape. Nothing worse then a spun bearing that takes out the crank to.
The F series motors are unreasonably expensive compared to the K series motors. Unfortunately, it seems like at high mileages, the F series is prone to losing compression and all sorts of garbage.
How many miles do you have your car? When you guys got it, it looked pretty shoddy. Is it a clean title?
I want that lift
I am sad that the Bass2k is broken but I happy I get to see more of this build. Still my favorite project of yours to date, although the Kswapped civic is pretty F'in sweet too.
Its going to be the middle main bearing, it happen to my f20c. If your lucky you will be able to polish the crank, new bearings, and reinstall. Just a Fyi, king now makes some badass bearings for the F20c. IF you are going to swap it J2F!
We'll find out soon enough. We're planning to do a teardown with Eric from R-Division/Lavigne Motorsports.
hopefully it's not to bad and you guys can get back to the track soon. Just a word of advice is easier to pull the motor and Trans together. Also the clutch fork if not pulled will not allow the motor and Trans to separate.
DONT K SWAP KEEP THAT F20 AND SUPERCHARGE IT.
10 day kswap s2k brought to you by hasport and ktuned.
Hah, don't tempt us!
tempt away, I wanna see a K24 or K20 in an S2K
s2000 head flows better, turbo the little guy, they go great with a turbo.
Do. It.
Man that sucks, just seems like one motor after another with you guys- which really sucks because you guys are one of the most knowledgeable channels on yt and one of few that do things the right way
For a sec I thought this was about the 5-day track build.
+
Is it bad that I'm sort of excited that you'll be pulling the engine from this car because that means more S2000 episodes?
Just a suggestion for cutting open filters. If you use a cut off wheel or reciprocating saw, you may add metal to the filter that wasn't there beforehand. On the other hand, without the filter cutting tool it can bring out the rage. Nice catch on the bearing. Can't wait to see what the issue is.
I am glad to hear you're leaning towards rebuilding the engine. I was really looking forward to seeing how the car ran on the track this summer. Oh well, I guess I'll look forward to more videos on how you guys get the car back to the track with a proper 'f' engine in it. So, when you launch the new videos, will they be titled Battered-ass 2000?
Damn it. That blows.
On the flip side that quick jack is sick. I'm gonna pick one up. What size is that one you guys used?
It's the middle of the line one, rated to 5,000 lbs.
Granmy shifting not double cluthing like you should have
#truth
the ass2000 never fails to fail... and if you guys wanna swap it put in something unique, like a 2 stroke motor or a jet engine. that would make sense.
Adam Papp a 2 stroke would be cool AF.
Look at the bright side. Whenever something breaks on your racecar that just gives you an excuse to replace the broken parts with an upgrade! And while it's all apart maybe more upgrades because hey, you're already in there already right?
Put a f22c and supercharge it, make some real power
This has all the classic symptoms of a failed crankshaft thrust bearing.
Easy to diagnose, confirm or eliminate, just check the crank end-play clearance.
With that amount of metal in the oil, the failed bearing should be easy to detect by simply rotating the crank back and forth in a short rocking motion by hand and detecting the ones with excess clearance by feel.
All of that RTV is not good in the oil stream either, we have almost completely banned the use RTV silicone in our shop and use either anaerobic gasket maker/sealer or Hylomar sparingly as a replacement.
Any excess anaerobic material will dissolve in the oil and since it is a large enough particle the oil filter captures it on the first circulation pass.
The trick is to not have excess sealer that can get in the oil stream.
I don’t know that anybody mention this but besides the valve retainers being in need of update to a ap2 retainers, the banjo bolts oil jets needs to be updated to ap2s as well.
A teardown video would be fun :)
expect some fun soon.
Nooooo. I was super looking forward to project badass2000 back on the track. Fix er up quick!
Please don't k swap it. The f20 is an engineering masterpiece which once held the record for the most hp per liter of any naturaly aspirated car!
You have to look into the inner part of the pleats of the filter to find what it is catching. Easiest thing to do is just pull the filter material out of the cage. Also as mentioned by others, you need to pull the crank and polish the journals.
Please just refresh the motor, id watch every single ep, that and you guys make great videos together
I've been waiting for another episode, even if it's not good news!
Last month I got a rod knock on my s2000 but I will be going with the same f20c because I don't want to affect 50/50 weight distribution of the car the makes it handle like it does, you guys should get a stroker kit or another f20c.
Workshop is looking good guys
That means the screen is doing its job, nothing to worry about. My Honda Accord has it too and runs like new. You’ll see it too when you change your oil.
Where do you get that little lift? How much do they cost?
Had the exact same thing happen to me... Spun bearing from a stupid low oil state while on track.... Got an f22 and good aftermarket oil wintage tray...
Please do a full tear down. Even better a rebuild vid. My f20just killed itself on the way to the nurbergring :( I was to late getting it off the autobahn and heard it go. Fingers crossed I can rebuild it.
We're going to tear it down and then shoot a video of the damage!
Stroke it with the ITBs would be killer
Jose Bonilla nothing like a high revving na motor
that's allot of rtv there, it's very possible a piece of the rtv is clogging a oil passage
RTV couldn't get past the filter on the oil pickup, and amazingly enough the oil pickup wasn't clogged with RTV. What you see in the video just fell off the block into the pan during removal.
Yea your rite, I didn't think about that. Hope u guys get it figured out and its not to costly, good luck boys keep up the good work
I know it's off topic on the bads2000, but will you guys ever do an chapter of building or swapping 1-2jzgte
often times, when you have a valve cover blasted, the blast media will get trapped in the pcv baffle in the valve cover. if you don't thoroughly clean the baffle, you'll be chasing your tail trying to figure out why you keep frying bearings.
@Pt and @Dp, here are cost effective options: 1) F22c 2) jdm F20c or 3) K24 swap
Oil coolers also have copper along with bearings.
must a be a rod bearing
the magnetic sludge could be from the cylinder walls if it has sleeves
so a complete rebuild might be necessary
I would ditch that Canton oil pan. The OEM pan is not only designed for heat dissipation, it is also designed to be structural. A OEM pan with baffle plate works just fine and is very well proven.
I record and post my oil changes of my integra, and I've seen shavings recently, but your engine is 5x worse.. sucks too see this :( also I'm a wussy, I would still use a jack stand under that car while using that baby lift
K-swap s2k's are awesome, stoker 2.4F-series are amazing, but there's only a couple J-swap s2k's and not much documentation on any of them. Would LOVE to see a J-swap. I'll give you a killer deal on my wife's piot.
the bearing material may be from over high levels of oil pressure. it resembles crankwalk but is not the same
KSwap would be killer.
These dudes were sketch as fuck with that lock for the hydraulic lift. I just saw a flash of a TH-cam video saying, “When shit goes wrong” episode
Good thinking with the saw. That's where the metal is from.
That's a bummer guys, guessing this is why we missed you at Gridlife.
Pro tip. Use a paint strainer instead. You can pick them up at Auto paint supply stores for cheap or free if you ask nicely!! =)
If it is an ap1, have you replaced the banjo bolts? This could cause oil starve to cyl 4. Also pull the valve cover to see if your valve retainers are showing cracks.
Rewind, Kyle. We swapped in AP2 retainers during a winter episode. We pulled the valve cover in the video and everything looks fine up there.
my bet is you tear it down and find #4 starved of oil and have ring and cyl wall damage. Most likely rod bearing damage on 4 also.
If you have a oil cooler change that too.. and the block has to get a complete clean before rebuild.
You should have done an oil analyze.
That quick jack looks sick.
no it isn't, bendpak is based in CA
and so you are right.. my bad.
Way to go on the RTV Sealant. Might want to look up a diy on how little it takes.
way to go on being a douchebag
There's way to much RTV on that sump. The fact that you found some in the sump makes me think some has blocked an oil passage.
seen it before, sealant clogging the oil pump, do a engine refresh, and replace all the bearings
Could that be valve guide material? Is it consuming any oil?
How many miles are on it? And how many track days has she been to?
OK so if it's a vtec issue it might be located in the head. Word on the street is you can bolt on an H22 head on that block and boost up to 800hp.Go with a conservative 450hp and sell the jenvey itbs to pay for the hardware.
You need a can opener (kitchen variety).
if you guys to rebuilt the engine, you should replace the main bearing bolts to an ap2 because those have 4 holes for the banjo bolts instead of 2 in the ap1. www.s2ki.com/forums/s2000-under-hood-22/oil-bolt-install-w-pics-102067/
Good tip! If we rebuild it, it'll be with Eric from R-Division who definitely knows all the tricks on these motors.
Balo657 judging from the tail light design it is a late model AP1 so it likely has the updated oil banjo bolts
Guys I am sure it is like any car lift, you need to bring it back down so its rest on the solid supports, not holding up using the hydraulics.
2JZ - S2000 :) I love the camera guy :) Or the K24 with a stroker-kit to 2.6 or 2.7 liter :P
What oil do you run out of curiosity? Shame to see it happen to such a nice car and pair of guys. :(
they finally got a quick jack
I realize that this engine is long gone and has been swapped, but I think it would be awesome to see this car with a stroker kit and a Kraftwerks supercharger kit.
regardless you guys do great work, it would be interesting to see you guys do a k24 swap or maybe a sr20?
If I comment on every video, will you guys start on Ken's 260Z?
maybe your valvoline oil was too thin? you put 0w-30 havent you?. Same thing happened to me.....car sat over the winter and when i took it for a drive it created a nasty vibration when i pulled hard through 1st and second gear......(i have a video/sound on youtube).....vtec was clogged, 2nd rod bearing was spun, an all and i mean ALL main bearings were dead. Bought a new engine now F20c2. I used Castrol 5w30, now with new engine im back on Motul 5w40 :)
I hope you keep this same engine and try to work with it
sucks man... but at least you caught before a massive disaster at the track.
in the future just get any strong magnet and move it around in the drained oil it should still pick up metal shavings
how is the oil pick up screen looking?
there is more to oil than pressure, what are your oil temps at the track? what viscosity are you using? and are you running an oil cooler? all this stuff matters on track.
Btw 70 psi hot sounds way too high. I just asked a tech at my work at an acura dealership who also used to work at Honda and he says it should be around 15-20 psi hot, you may have blockage post oil pressure sensor and having starvation problems.
Oil temps are fine at the track, we have an oil cooler in place, we're running full synthetic OE viscosity oil. 15-20 PSI hot is way too low.
What are the temps and oil weight you use? I'm talking about the pressure at idle btw.
oil temps are fine on track, 220-230 max. We're running Valvoline Pro-V 30 weight. Oil pressure at idle with our gauge and the sending unit at the oil filter sandwich adapter is around 30psi hot. At WOT it's 90psi hot. At startup it's 80-100 psi cold. Off throttle on the track it's 70 psi hot. 15-20 psi hot at idle is pretty normal for Hondas as read by the OE sending unit, but pressures read higher at the filter like our aftermarket gauge is setup for.
That all looks good. Hopefully you can find a smoking gun on the tear down, good luck.
If there's visible metal on any part of the oil system, that's a very bad sign the motor is getting close to toast. Normal wear shouldn't be eye visible.
Is there any continue on grips14 with the engine choose ?
copper could be valve guides or bearings.
You know, this could even be an opportunity for some higher compression pistons, and stronger rods to boot. Since it'll be apart and all, why not? (besides the financial side of course)
if the crank is okay then you can just put new rod bearings
rebuild, go k24, or go j35, not enough motors out there so don't go thinning out the supply please!! I say this for selfish reasons because I have a high mileage s2000
I wanna hear more about the E28 with E34 M5 turbine wheels on it... anything interesting lurking under there??
nothing interesting yet. Could be a future project though :D
What rims are on that tundra? will it fit a 2015 taco?
I would hypothesise that your excessive use of RTV on the pan could have caused a blockage in an oil gallery.
what happened to the red S14 ?
Toda stroker kit, please and thank you 😆
Don't swap, drink a few pops and find a new block.
Scott I what are "pops"
When should i show up to help with the 2j swap?
Hey does anyone know where I can buy that hydraulic jack setup?? My dad has a small shop and it would be great for him and me as well, please someone let me know, thanks
That e28 in the background. I want one shop bad, but they're hard to find where I live.
your meant to drop it back down A lil so it locks. i have one of these. otherwise you will have problems pulling the hydro cables off
Yup, we figured that out eventually! :D
Hey ive owned an 02 S for 2 years now and ive researched that the honda si oil filter are better than K&N oil filter. There is significantly less oil burn with the si filter
Just a quick tip for the S Heads
I guessing its the center main crank bearing..
how many miles does the car had with the oil presented in the video and what type of oil were you using??
Valvoline Pro V 5w-30 motor oil and its from last year so the oil isnt terribly old.
Speed Academy the thing that killed the car is the oil you are using. That viscosity doesn't handle heat very well on the track. for normal driving is perfect but for track days it doesn't work as good. In the track go for a higher viscosity ( 15 w 40 or 20 w50). these handle better the heat.
What model quickjack do you have in the vid? 3500, 5000, or 7000?
5000
With that jack, LOWER it onto the lock instead of relying on the hydraulics. Then you could even disconnect the lines to get them out of your way if needed. And not to mention its a little safer. Never trust anything hydraulic with your life
Yup, we figured that out eventually and nobody even died! :P
is the e28 yours?
I'll show you guys a quick jack system ;)
video or it didn't happen
I actually damaged my quick jack system really badly today while moving a washing machine. Very deep cut that was spewing fluid like crazy.
Remember people, if you don't use a tool for it's intended purpose damage can occur. imgur.com/a/uz8oO
name of the lift please and thanks, a link would be good.
By the time you set up your little hydraulic lift not to mention it's probably pricey I think I'd stick with a jack and stands personally 😂
If you end up dropping a new motor in I could always make the drive from Windsor to take that old one off your hands ;)
Ayyy that e28 in the background , forget the s2k i wanna see some more of that e28 🙃
Jeffrey Barrera same here jeffrey! ive been craving old bimmer videos from anyone