just did this on my 2001 accord after replacing vetch solenoid and oil pressure switch light always comes back after 2 weeks , did this fix and it works great hasn’t come back for almost a full month now.
@@MuddafukhingdisKUST it does. Only thing with doing this is you will not be able to tell if you drop oil pressure due to by passing the oil pressure switch. But long as you check ur oil regularly you'll be fine... Because if you drop oil pressure regardless the engine gonna take damage. .. but just a warning ⚠️
i have been hetting the code no matter what. always stutter at 4k rpm after a few days. no leaks in oil anywhere. i replaced the valve cover gasket. replaced vtec solenoid and gasket. everything they say online and nothing works. im going insane lmao
@@blvdes Dude I’m going insane, I’ve replaced the VTEC solenoid twice,changed the oil and headgasket, did what he did in the video and I’m still in limp mode
Mine is throwing eld code along with this I wonder if it's not reading the 12v properly I can clear it out and get mine to about 6500rpm then it kicks out of vtec and looses acceleration.
So I have a 2000 honda accord ex with the 2.3L v4 Vtec and it won't go over 4k rpm, I tried this trick and it worked for about 30 min then the car went right back to limp mode. I don't really know what else to try because my car no longer has a cat on it so I know it can't be that and all my O2 sensors are connected and working but yet my check engine light is still on and my car stays in limp mode. Hate to do this on a video but I really need help.
My oil light would come on occasionally yes, but that was because the engine was already burning oil pretty badly. You might just have low oil pressure from your engine burning oil. These old F series are notorious for burning oil as they age. As I stated in the description of this video, this wiring hack doesn't actually fix what's causing the P1259, which is often times chronically low oil pressure due to the engine burning oil. What this solution DOES do though, is prevent the P1259 from coming on and your engine going into limp mode.
This is a very mysterious code, for me Honda told me my PCM is not sending power to the VTEC solenoid, I haven’t tried fixing it yet but I assume this trick will not work for me if the PCM is actually bad
Alright man I might try it but I got a 2001 accord ex f23a1 but it has a black wire and a green wire going to the vtech oil pressure switch. Mines stuck in limp mode with p1259 code but it only revs when you give it less than 1/8 throttle highest I’ve got it to rev was 4k. It is a five speed too. Is that how everyone else’s is running?
You need to cut the blue power wire from the oil pressure switch, splice it into the power wire from the vtec solenoid, and plug the connector for the vtec solenoid back into the solenoid. Steps I did in the video. 1. Cut blue power wire from VTEC Oil Pressure Switch. 2. Cut power wire from VTEC Solenoid. 3. Splice the blue power wire together with the ECU side of the wire you cut from the VTEC solenoid. 4. Take the two wires you spliced together, and splice that into the connector side of the VTEC solenoid wire. 5. Plug the VTEC solenoid back in with all the spliced wires, and use your OBD II to clear any codes. 6. You can leave the Oil Pressure switch connector plugged in or you can throw it away. You will no longer need it since you bypassed the sensor. Hope this helps!
My 2000 Honda accord does same thing. It won't go beyond 3000 rpm. From your video do I splice the two wires on the oil pressure switch together and then splice it with the vtec sensor wire or it's just the power wire (blue wire) that should be spliced with the vtec sensor wire? Does it mean the oil pressure switch has no important role since it is going to be cut off? Thanks
Yes sir. Only the power wire from the OPS should be spliced into the VTEC solenoid wire. then take end of the VTCS+OPS wires that you spliced together and wire it into the connector of the VTEC solenoid and connect it back into the solenoid. With the OPS bypassed, you can just ground the remaining groundwire to any bolt available nearby
Good day.. I Spliced the blue wire of the oil pressure switch to the vtec sensor wire and the other wire to ground. The rpm went beyond even 6000. I took it for road test after driving for some time the problem returned. What else can i do
@@danielose4524 damn brother i'm not sure... when I did this bypass on my car and my friend's car the code never came back... I'm not exactly sure what to do when it does. Do you wanna email me pictures at themetaphorer (at) gmail (dot) com?
Wish u shined a light on the actual splicing location I accidentally cut the switch cable but either way before the accidental cut,with brand new switch and solinoid it didn't last long,all it took was 1 oil leak for the oil to burn improperly and 200 bucks for Honda solinoid went to trash fn hate this car but like u I put in too much to junk it and I don't have space or time to make it parts car. I miss sticking to Lexus can practically torch those cars on fire and never need to get your hands dirty.
Well Il did it and now the p1259 comes back as soon as I clear it. Managed to get the check engine light off and do a short burst passed 5000. Then the kill joy light came on
Check continuity in your wires, maybe they came loose. assuming everything was spliced correctly it shouldn't come back on. And make sure the other wire for the Oil pressure switch is grounded
Damn that's weird! It worked as expected for me and the code did not come back, I'm able to rev past 4k into vtec with little issue. Are you sure you spliced the power cable of the oil pressure switch into the vtec solenoid and not the ground?
Sorry for the late reply and shitty lighting in the video! The blue power wire is coming from the VTEC Oil pressure switch, which is the two wire connector that's attatched to the side of the VTEC solenoid. It's located near the distributor on the back side of the cylinder head.
Where your doing is just grasping at straws. The thing you need to do os actually if out what the actually problem is before just throwimg money at it.
just did this on my 2001 accord after replacing vetch solenoid and oil pressure switch light always comes back after 2 weeks , did this fix and it works great hasn’t come back for almost a full month now.
Of course it's not gonna come on... I wouldn't do this... I would actually fix the problem not just cover it
Worked for me thanks a lot cause me about $600in parts before watching this video
glad i could help bro
Bro to verify this video is solid and works great!!! Just did it in a d16 y5 engine.
That's cool! Didn't know that this worked on D series.
@@MuddafukhingdisKUST it does. Only thing with doing this is you will not be able to tell if you drop oil pressure due to by passing the oil pressure switch. But long as you check ur oil regularly you'll be fine... Because if you drop oil pressure regardless the engine gonna take damage. .. but just a warning ⚠️
Cut the power wire from the oil pressure switch and connect it to vtec solenoid power wire and connect to the ground to a random bolt?
sorry for the late response, but yes
i have been hetting the code no matter what. always stutter at 4k rpm after a few days. no leaks in oil anywhere. i replaced the valve cover gasket. replaced vtec solenoid and gasket. everything they say online and nothing works. im going insane lmao
if this trick doesn't work after trying everything you might have to swap your ecu
im right with you lmk if you ever get it fixed plz
@@drac.270 still no lol it's just a feature of the car atp
@@blvdes Dude I’m going insane, I’ve replaced the VTEC solenoid twice,changed the oil and headgasket, did what he did in the video and I’m still in limp mode
Mine is throwing eld code along with this I wonder if it's not reading the 12v properly I can clear it out and get mine to about 6500rpm then it kicks out of vtec and looses acceleration.
So I have a 2000 honda accord ex with the 2.3L v4 Vtec and it won't go over 4k rpm, I tried this trick and it worked for about 30 min then the car went right back to limp mode. I don't really know what else to try because my car no longer has a cat on it so I know it can't be that and all my O2 sensors are connected and working but yet my check engine light is still on and my car stays in limp mode. Hate to do this on a video but I really need help.
Did your oil pressure light come on after bypassing it to vtech solenoid?
This trick fixed the P1259 code but now the oil light is on.
My oil light would come on occasionally yes, but that was because the engine was already burning oil pretty badly. You might just have low oil pressure from your engine burning oil. These old F series are notorious for burning oil as they age. As I stated in the description of this video, this wiring hack doesn't actually fix what's causing the P1259, which is often times chronically low oil pressure due to the engine burning oil. What this solution DOES do though, is prevent the P1259 from coming on and your engine going into limp mode.
Just bought mine today and do I splice both wires into that one like what do I do with the other plug that I cut the 2 wires off of
I’m so confused
This is a very mysterious code, for me Honda told me my PCM is not sending power to the VTEC solenoid, I haven’t tried fixing it yet but I assume this trick will not work for me if the PCM is actually bad
how did you know your PCM was bad?
@@drac.270 Honda said it was but it wasn't, turns out the power to the oil switch is shorted out. Now i'm left scratching my head how to fix this
Alright man I might try it but I got a 2001 accord ex f23a1 but it has a black wire and a green wire going to the vtech oil pressure switch. Mines stuck in limp mode with p1259 code but it only revs when you give it less than 1/8 throttle highest I’ve got it to rev was 4k. It is a five speed too. Is that how everyone else’s is running?
I don't understand it dose it mean I need to connect the vtech solenoid wire to the vtech pressure switch sensor? Please I need more explanation
You need to cut the blue power wire from the oil pressure switch, splice it into the power wire from the vtec solenoid, and plug the connector for the vtec solenoid back into the solenoid.
Steps I did in the video.
1. Cut blue power wire from VTEC Oil Pressure Switch.
2. Cut power wire from VTEC Solenoid.
3. Splice the blue power wire together with the ECU side of the wire you cut from the VTEC solenoid.
4. Take the two wires you spliced together, and splice that into the connector side of the VTEC solenoid wire.
5. Plug the VTEC solenoid back in with all the spliced wires, and use your OBD II to clear any codes.
6. You can leave the Oil Pressure switch connector plugged in or you can throw it away. You will no longer need it since you bypassed the sensor. Hope this helps!
My 2000 Honda accord does same thing. It won't go beyond 3000 rpm. From your video do I splice the two wires on the oil pressure switch together and then splice it with the vtec sensor wire or it's just the power wire (blue wire) that should be spliced with the vtec sensor wire?
Does it mean the oil pressure switch has no important role since it is going to be cut off? Thanks
Yes sir. Only the power wire from the OPS should be spliced into the VTEC solenoid wire. then take end of the VTCS+OPS wires that you spliced together and wire it into the connector of the VTEC solenoid and connect it back into the solenoid. With the OPS bypassed, you can just ground the remaining groundwire to any bolt available nearby
Good day.. I Spliced the blue wire of the oil pressure switch to the vtec sensor wire and the other wire to ground. The rpm went beyond even 6000. I took it for road test after driving for some time the problem returned. What else can i do
@@danielose4524 damn brother i'm not sure... when I did this bypass on my car and my friend's car the code never came back... I'm not exactly sure what to do when it does. Do you wanna email me pictures at themetaphorer (at) gmail (dot) com?
so what u did was ,connect blu o.p.s. wire to the vtec power wire ?
yes sir
Wish u shined a light on the actual splicing location I accidentally cut the switch cable but either way before the accidental cut,with brand new switch and solinoid it didn't last long,all it took was 1 oil leak for the oil to burn improperly and 200 bucks for Honda solinoid went to trash fn hate this car but like u I put in too much to junk it and I don't have space or time to make it parts car. I miss sticking to Lexus can practically torch those cars on fire and never need to get your hands dirty.
ive had mine rigged up like this for awhile and it just keeps going
Well Il did it and now the p1259 comes back as soon as I clear it. Managed to get the check engine light off and do a short burst passed 5000. Then the kill joy light came on
Check continuity in your wires, maybe they came loose. assuming everything was spliced correctly it shouldn't come back on. And make sure the other wire for the Oil pressure switch is grounded
😂
It’s been 2 months now did the light 💡 come back on yet ?
Nope! Didn't come back on a single time! That doesn't mean I don't have other codes though lol
@@MuddafukhingdisKUST I did mine the same way on a 99 accord and so far so good no light 💡 thank you
@@Unlaced_kickz So happy I could help!
@@Unlaced_kickz can you explain to me how to do this
Please I need more pictures or videos of this VTEC solutions thanks
I have a honda accord 98 it doesn't have any power but when I take of the map sensor it's the only way the car can move how can I fix it
Do you have a code for the MP sensor? Or is it just P1259
I did this 2 weeks ago and it didn’t work had the code since October and did mostly everything everyone said on the internet :(
Damn that's weird! It worked as expected for me and the code did not come back, I'm able to rev past 4k into vtec with little issue. Are you sure you spliced the power cable of the oil pressure switch into the vtec solenoid and not the ground?
i don't see where the blue wire is coming from
Sorry for the late reply and shitty lighting in the video! The blue power wire is coming from the VTEC Oil pressure switch, which is the two wire connector that's attatched to the side of the VTEC solenoid. It's located near the distributor on the back side of the cylinder head.
Where your doing is just grasping at straws. The thing you need to do os actually if out what the actually problem is before just throwimg money at it.