3D Printed Interlock Bypass Key
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.พ. 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
8mm magnets: amzn.to/4bIRazC
Red PLA: amzn.to/3wrZbJ3
White PLA: amzn.to/3wh3aIp
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
Other music used is "Summertime" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist.
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
1440gt
pm1440gt
precision matthews
lathe
interlock
switch
key
functional
print
fpf
PLA - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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When I design stuff like that I import the image in fusion 360 and scale to size and trace object then verify distances. Works like a charm
Nice video. Vibration is a funny thing, especially when things go sideways on you. (Maybe that never happens to you.) I would store the key below the drive elements. That way no matter what happens it won’t get in the belt or gears.
Lots of great functional print ideas. Thanks for posting them and making them freely available. Would you consider designing a simple lathe tool tip height setter? This is not the most complicated thing in the world but useful. Many people just eyeball the centre height, or sort of compare it to the tip of a tailstock held point. Given your history, such a thing might not end up being so simple ha ha. I’d suggest holes for magnets on the bottom, a sharp edge to measure height, some adjustability in height. Cheers.
I think I heard a collective OH&S gasp ;) Great project, I love your channel.
thx!
It's a fancy version of the Aldi's shopping cart key.
Very nice. I’d be inclined to nip a bit off the left corner to make it nestle into the bearing retainer. But that’s probably gilding the lilly.
Thx for the idea. If it ends up migrating around under there, I'll adjust the corner to follow the curve of the spindle bearing retainer.
Nice job getting it figured out. I do a lot of woodworking and it's usually a similar process when designing things for function.
Got the same switch on my lathe. I just unscrewed the key part and left it inside the switch.
I did this exact thing on the edgebander in work just put a piece of paper behind the key and drew around it and measured the thickness, took it home and printed in pla. Works like a charm. Saves so much time when setting the cutters and scraper for a different edging.
A few thoughts. I've got the same machine (1440GT) and I simply removed the switch and jumped the terminals at the board. So much easier than dealing with it, especially since you're just defeating it anyway. Then when you want to put a tachometer on the lathe you can use the mounting holes for the switch to hold the sensor.
Also, on the oil changes. Consider getting yourself an oil pump like you would use for an inboard/outboard where you can't get to the drain plug. Just pull the top cover off the headstock and pump it dry, it's SO much easier and you get to have a look inside once in a while and see how the drivetrain is looking. You will also find metal shavings that you can remove with the cover off that are not coming out from the drain. The oil pump also makes life so much easier for all your other oil changes (autos etc..) as you can pump out the majority and only have to drain the last small amount into a pan.
We used those switches on the machine I worked on. I ended up making a metal key by hand. Point of interest. You can override the safety switch by unscrewing the top portion. It is operated with the top removed.
interesting, is it a "drum" inside like I was guessing?
the play is intentional as it allowes for more variation when its mounted as panels are not installed straight every time.
btw. Proxxon Micromot MICRO-Press MP 120 - great, compact tool for pushing _small_ things like magnets etc
for the lower hole, ont he head, you should put threads on a tube. you get an initial would of drops and the it flows on the tube. for the one behing the gears, youy could use a bolt that has a hole in it, and a hose attached (maybe with a 90 degrees) , and the hose is plugged at the end. no more fidgeting with tape and stuff. actually both coud have flex tube with plugs at the end, permanently attached..
good ideas, thx
If this interlock isn't some no name brand, it is possible that you could download CAD model of the key from manufacture site.
It has a lot of play because the door won't necessarily have perfect alignment.
Good project though.
I would have totally taken the top off that safety switch and found out / measured whats going on inside. The four screws on the top are taunting me. but probably not the best idea..
Very nice...oof...12grand for a lathe (I guess all I can afford is a harbor freight hobby lathe)...still very very very nice!
Keep em coming!!!!
Thanks 👍
👍👍😎👍👍
Isn't 20 hour oil change mark for first oil change only? All the lathes I know of can run years without oil change, so is this one any different? This is not a high performance engine. Oil seemed to be very clean, however I hope that it has a magnet somewhere to collect potential metal filings or metal dust.
is it possible to put the cover back with with bypass key still in? Id say it would be better if you couldnt so it doesnt get left in.
Careful with those magnets and your kids. If they eat one, it will pass through. If they eat two, it is death. Some kids have died from this. 😢 they attach in the gut as they pass thru and bad things happen.