Installing BIGTREETECH SKR Mini E3 V3.0 in Ender 3 with Klipper
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2021
- Basic Wiring and Board installation.
This board was purchased by myself - not a sponsored video.
I bought board here: www.aliexpress.com/item/10050...
Fluid Pi: github.com/fluidd-core/FluiddPI
RPI Wiring/Initial setup by NERO 3D: • Klipper and the RPI-ze...
Bigtreetech Klipper Repo: bit.ly/3rdaOzf
Board User manual: bit.ly/32km7ej
My Klipper config (It's safer to use Bigtreetech Klipper config):
github.com/Agilato/ender3-kli...
How to use Ender's 2 DWIN screen:
github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTRE...
github.com/MarlinFirmware/Con...
Instagram: / hobbyist_notes
Thanks. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Great video! Really inspiring. One unrelated question. Did your ender 3 v2 come with creality v4.2.7? Mine was v4.2.2
Mine came with 4.2.2 also, tho I have spare 4.2.7 there is not much difference between them. There is interesting Reddit post about some 4.2.2 boards having nice tmc2209 drivers with normal support of linear advance. So before updating make sense to take heatsink off and check what drivers are installed, cus you can even make a UART mode and board will be very capable.
@cas curse Are you asking about Creality boards? Also we talk about Driver's UART or Controller UART as I have in this video ( single cable Pi power + Communication)?
@cas curse It's available on those boards but you will have to mod it: www.reddit.com/r/ender3v2/comments/n3clew/ender_3v2_422427_board_tmc_uart_mods/
Hey there! So are you running Klipper on a Raspberry Pi? I am running it off a spare laptop, and using Fluidd as my GUI. I was wondering if you are using an ADXL for input shaping, or if you are using input shaping at all? If so and you are not using a Raspberry Pi, how are you connecting the ADXL to your laptop?
As currently I am not aiming for very high accelerations and speeds (but i will) I do very basic input shaping print based calibration. Usually we connect ADXL to RPI's GPIO but in your case you need to connect ADXL to Arduino and than you will be able to receive data at your PC via USB, tho I have no experience with ADXL running this way.
is it necessary to change the X and Y offsets on the slicer when using afterburnerer on ender 3v2 or just change position_endstop: and position_min: on printer.cfg?
You have to set both, prove location for proper probing and endstop locations.
Hi, what slicer are you using with E3v2 and klipper? Having some issues with PLA. Done all the calibration etc but prints from Slic3r just not good...
I use Latest CURA.
I know I’m very late, just trying to do this tonight. Two questions though- 1) Do you have an extra fan somewhere? My printer only seems to have 2 in the wires. 2) How can I mince these wires? Do I need to connect them to something/each other or just completely take them out? Thanks in advance :)
You need to crimp JST connectors for all fans, on the board you will find FAN0, FAN1, FAN2 connectors.
Refer to the board's pinout, link to the user guide is in description.
Hi great video just one question. I'm looking at this board and the rrf. Is the mini 3 wifi compatible out of the box like the rrf?
No built in WiFi.
@@hobbyistnotes thank you 👍
I'm wondering which uart pin set you chose when building klipper bin for this wiring config (I have wired it same as you, but documentation is unclear which pin set to use)
I have PA10/PA9
PB7/PB6
PA3/PA2
PD6/PD5
PB11/PB10
PD9/PD8
and using the tft rx/tx/ground pins to connect my pi.
Ohh, just follow the Nero 3D video that is provided in to the description, as option you can take a look at my github repo where I store all of my klipper configs, link also in to the description.
Hi, awesome video, what it your setup for direct drive and the ducts that you did used? I'm thinking to buy a e3 v3.0 too for upgrade my ender 3 pro after 3 years of use
It's an older version of Voron Afterburner toolhead. I made it only because of hype around it. It's not most optimized airflow fan duct, newer Stealthburner is much better but it's in beta. I use BTT SKR Mini E3 V3 for last few months and so far it served me well.
@@hobbyistnotes awesome, I want to give a better look to my ender 3 pro, that e3 v3.0 will bring a better life to my printer,
@@TheFpc20 I pref to firstly think why I am doing an upgrade. One benefit you will get for sure is to have opportunity to do a Linear Advance and speed up the printer. Nice side features as LED and controllable fans. Don't forget to have fun ;-)
@@hobbyistnotes yeah, in my case I do offer 3d printing service, days ago did purchase a bigtreetech mini ups for power loss due that in my country it always happen and many prints get damaged for it but I can't get it to work properly with the stock board because it require a uart for it so need a bigtreetech board for make It work 100% 😅
@@TheFpc20 @TheFpc20 Ohh... I see, nice application! Hope it will work out fine for you, i never used UPS with my printers as mostly Ender's 3s PSUs are holding well tiny US voltage drops, but I used to live in RU where we had same issue as you.
Great job bro.👍👍👍
Thanks!
I was wondering what connector you had to crimp? I have been trying to find it and I cant find which one it is.
In this specific case I had to crimp Hot-end cooling fan and Inductive probe connectors as from factory Ender's Cooling fan connected to a screw Terminal Block and probe also a new addition. The process wasn't filmed.
Thanks for the nice informations
Thank you for watching ;-)
Thanks for doing this. Waiting for my v3 to arrive. looks like a drop-in replacement. Any major issues so far?
I printed about 100h on it and everything is fine, the only one thing: you will need to crimp hot-end fan cus now it has connector. Rest was as you say "drop-in replacement".
@@hobbyistnotes thanks! It looks like the hotend fan is now cotrolable.
@@joebasso8895 Yeah not only Hotend one, board cooling one too.
I see this is a year old now, but - I'm glad you got this to work for you. I haven't been so lucky! In addition to the Mini E3V3 I also got the TFT 3.5 E3 touchscreen. Since that uses TWO ribbon cables to connect screen to mainboard, one of which is the TFT port on the Mini where you are connecting your UART wires, I had to use the micro USB port to connect to my Pi. Here's the DISASTER:
TWICE now I have tried to flash their Klipper-USB.bin to the Mini, and TWICE it has BRICKED my Mini boards! Yes - BRICKED! Can't flash back to Marlin, or any other firmware binaries that they offer. Nothing seems to bring back the Mini: the TFT screen insists: "No printer attached" Quite frustrating, and BTT tech support is ABSOLUTELY WORTHLESS! It seems like they are trying some AI bot instead of hiring even HALF-baked technicians for their support desk.
Reading your comment I think there is a room for “user error” as one time could be true but chances of two boards having same issues considering quality of their boards are pretty slim. Can you please describe the process how you flashing the board. I own most of the boards BTT makes (some purchased myself, some sent by BTT) and all of them are still working fine even after all abuse I have put them thru over few years of making videos.
@@hobbyistnotes Hey - THANKS for picking this up, in spite of its geriatric side.... (off-handed admission of my OWN status, having clicked off yet another DECADE just this week) ...which goes directly to your "user error" theory. Well, after fighting the 1st one for about 10 days, you can believe I was EXTREMELY careful with the 2nd - verifying the FTF connection and the BT Touch connection and getting the 3 fans in proper order. Things looked fine, then, upon 1st boot-up, BUT - as my entire plan was to get this running klipper, after only the simplest of checks (I tried "Home X" from the TFT touchscreen. Check! So I copied THEIR klipper-usb.bin to my micro SD card (a 32 G card BUT with only a small FAT partition expressly for this task) and renamed it firmware.bin and inserted it into the Mini slot and booted up. It appeared to take it up, as it renamed it FIRMWARE.CUR - but from then on, just as with my 1st Mini board, the TFT now reports "No printer attached" and the BTT Pi 1.2 that's connected via USB cable does not see ANYTHING at that serial port. No sign of new device when plugging the USB cable in after bootup - NEVER any sign of the port as described in the BTT doc: something like /dev/serial/by-id/xxxxxblahblahblah -- there's not any /dev/serial folder at all, so everything downstream from that is MOOT (useless).
Now the board is unreachable, ALTHOUGH -- oddly enough -- it DOES seem to pick up further firmware.bin files from the micro SD card, if converting the file name to FIRMWARE.CUR means what I think it does? Problem is, no matter which BIN file I try (from the BTT github files) it does NOT return to OPERATIONAL! And their tech support seems to have almost as much trouble deciphering English as I would Chinese! Asking simple questions like 6 or 8 times without the slightest hint of an answer - well, it's more than a little frusterpating!
@@palewriter1856 The reason why BTT'sGit Repo *.bin Klipper files aren't working for you is cus probably they are outdated to the point your host klipper wont recognize any connections with the board. I would try to unplug everything form the board other than USB, compile USB based Klipper with config file requirements, flash it and check if device appears in to the USB list. If you flash UART firmware board wont appear in to the list of devices and wont work other than via UART. If file on the sd-card changes the name that means at least controller is working fine. There are some cases where you need to also try other cables not all of them work. The symptoms you have presented proves ether something wrong with firmware you are flashing or with something that you plug in to the board. Main reason why I always configure and make everything work without external devices and only then plug board to the peripherals and finish the build. Let me know how it goes for you.
Great video, this motherboard will help to improve the speed of the printer? or how can i make an old ender 3(2018) to print faster?
Motherboard only will give you flexibility in features but it doesn't mean you have to buy it. You can get pretty fast with original hardware the only thing you will need Raspberry Pi or similar single board computer and ADXL sensor. With Pi you can convert Ender 3 to run Klipper which has few important algorithms Input Shaper and Pressure Advance which will help you to get significantly faster without losing the quality. Input Shaper will help to reduce resonance frequencies which can be measure with ADXL sensor and Pressure Advance allows to regulate flow in to the nozzle the way it will push perfect amount of plastic on very complex features such as corners. If you want to get it fast 1st step Install klipper, there are plenty TH-cam videos on how to do it.
@@hobbyistnotesgreat explanation!! I was wondering why anyone would get the SKR vs the BTT Pi especially since the BTT Pi improves speeds by 5-10x as well as print quality and even can host octoprint.
I dont really see the need for SKR unless i want it all really silent or need uses for the extra features.
@@NagashiChidorii 5-10x sounds like overstatement. Feels like some one is trying to advertize BTT Pi.
@@hobbyistnotes huh? If you run at 60 mm/s. Then install klipper: 10 x 60 = 600 mm/s
How is that an over exaggeration? Klipper installed on btt pi can easily do that.
@@NagashiChidorii Because printing speed isn't just print speed that you set in slicer it's mostly acceleration settings and in case of Ender 3 it won't be x10 as it's kinematics aren't able to withstand forces related to high accelerations CONSISTENTLY without sacrifices. Don't forget you will need proper high flow hotend and good extruder which will melt/push plastic fast enough to handle fast speeds. But compare to stock printer you definitely can go x2 may be x3 depends on tune and assembly quality. Showing high speed is a very known marketing trick. I recommend to watch Simon from: www.youtube.com/@Vez3D he has several good videos with his printer printing at very high accelerations.
Thank You very much for doing this work. I just bought myself E3 mini v3.0 and am going to put it in Ender 3 v2.
I would really really like You to succeed with porting this MOBO to Ender v2 and share Your knowledge on how You did that. (hardware and software tutorial/explanation)
Thank you! I am currently using V3 board on my Ender 3v2 with Klipper so far prints and works perfectly fine. I hope I'll find time to make video and explain how to run Jayers Marlin on it, but for now trying to figure and test the board all the way.
@@hobbyistnotes Very good. Btw I aswell have the intention to run it with Klipper. My RPI 4B will arrive in a week. But also would like to know how to work it in Marlin/Jyers. So most of all am interested in klipper, but if You by some miracle can show me how to run it with Marlin and Original v2 screen, I will send You some money.
@@savikate No need for the money, I'll take a look in few hours if I can make fast manual how to compile and run custom Marlin firmware for this board and V2 screen, problem is that V2 screen has own firmware it might take some time.
@@hobbyistnotes I understand. Take Your time maestro.
@@savikate Sooo... I have spent whole night debugging and compiling Marlin firmware to work with Ender's V2 DWIN screen. It's far from working well and requires more time, I will try to look at this project later next week. For now I will leave link to the GitHub issue that has major information needed to "start" this process, may be some one will be interested. It's maximum I can do at this point with my time...
Grewt vid. I have the ender 3 with skr mini e3 v3 can you make a video how to get klipper running on it? And why are you running klipper and not marlin. I have marlin running but have some trouble with my bl touch.
Per my experience Klipper is way more flexible, you can change settings simply in file without flashing firmware every time. As this topic very well documented on TH-cam I have no interest to go thru all of the related process. BUT! Here is a good and detailed video on this topic: th-cam.com/video/gfZ9Lbyh8qU/w-d-xo.html
I just switched from Marlin to klipper. Hopefully I made the right choice
I have 0 regrets and hope you will have 0 too ;-)
I have installed this board on my ender 3 v2 and for some reason the bed starts heating as soon as the printer is powered on,also can't seem to get frimware.bin to flash the board for klipper...choose the stm32 options,8kib bootloader,8mhz clock option and still for whatever reason will not flash usb pa11,12,could I be selection the wrong config settings?...great vid by the way,thanks for sharing.
Also I do have the screen removed the screen and used KIHAU for the install of mainsai/klipper and klipper screen,I have a a 4.3 touch screen connected to a rapberry pi 4b.
@@hendersonhandmadeironwoodc8881 Sounds like you connected bed in a wrong place (follow guideline form BTT github schematics), config section is right I flashed it multiple times, you just probably picked wrong STM32 controller. To flash klipper you also can use precompiled Klipper firmwares from BTT gitHub Klipper repo.
I have a raspberry pi 4b. It's currently running fluidd with my ender 3 v2 running klipper. I just purchased a cr10 v2 and i'm currently replacing the motherboard to a skr mini e3 v3. Do I just need to connect it to my current PI to install klipper or do I need another pi?
Klipper is 2 sided software 1st part (set of commands/rules) runs on the printer's board and 2nd part with moonraker + (OctoPi or Mainsail or FluidPi) on the Raspberry Pi which controls the printer. You can use same Pi to generate firmware file required to flash the SKR board or you can download compiled firmware from BIGTREETECH github repo (I would recommend to recompile new FW). Also Pi4 is strong enough to run 2 printers at the same time but you will have to spend some time to configure such setup or you can set second Pi to run your new CR10.
@@hobbyistnotes thanks! There isn't much information out there about running 2 printers from 1 pi. I've just resorted to backing up my printer.cfg file, plugging a printer in then using that cfg file. Next weekend I will try and run 2 instances of fluidd on the pi and switch between them with a custom command on the kilipper screen.
I would like to see in more detail how klipper is installed on skr mini e3 v3
Fortunately it's very common content on TH-cam, Klipper installs exactly the same way as any other board via sd card, you will find exact klipper compilation settings in SKR-mini-E3-V3.0-klipper.cfg file at bigtreetech github repo - link listed in to the description.
@@hobbyistnotes I found it, but for unknown reasons, klipper cannot detect the printer, so I would like to see a step-by-step installation of klipper on skr mini e3 v3
@@v1tamin91 Для начала надо разобраться каким путем вы подключаете плату к Малинке, через UART или USB дальше надо шить плату под этот интерфейс. В описании ссылка на видео от Неро процесс 1 в 1 точно такой же, ничего лишнего. Следуйте настройкам в конфиге от Bigtreetech.
@@v1tamin91 I've tried TWO Mini E3V3 boards - both now BRICKED by flashing the BTT klipper-usb.bin firmware. Resulted BOTH TIMES in my TFT 3.5 screen insisting: "No printer attached" and, indeed, none of the controls work after that flash. Trying to restore by flashing one of their marlin binaries will not restore functionality, either!
Today I learned from a techno-wiz at BTT that the TFT 3.5 will not do its dual-mode thing under Klipper - so my self-imagined Klipper "solution" with the Mini E3 V3 and the TFT 3.5 E3 and the BTT Pi 1.2 was a misguided PIPE DREAM! What I am waiting for from them NOW, though, is comment on how their klipper-USB.bin firmware knocked the Mini board on its proverbial donkey derierre. What it SEEMS to have done is simply to kill the micro USB port, but as I said - remains to be seen....
Can you show a close up of the pins you used for the UART connection to your Pi Zero?
Google: Raspberry Pi GPIO. We use pins: 2-4-6-8-10. As 2 and 4 are both 5V u need both only If you use Full size Pi, with Pi Zero one 5V pin is enough (4-6-8-10)
@@hobbyistnotes thanks! I found that info for the Pi Zero, can't find the tft pins on the E3V3?
@@overanalyze4108 check description there is the link to a GitHub repo where you will find a schematics and pinout for this board.
@@overanalyze4108 github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/blob/master/hardware/BTT%20SKR%20MINI%20E3%20V3.0/Hardware/BTT%20E3%20SKR%20MINI%20V3.0_PIN.pdf
HI great vid. Could you please post your'e printer config file a as i'm new to klipper and would like to see it.
Hello, In to the description you will find link to a Bigtreetech Github repository it has config named: SKR-mini-E3-V3.0-klipper.cfg, i had few adjustments for my Inductive probe i use, the rest pretty much the same.
Added link to a git-hub repo with my configs
What pins are the tft uart pins that need to be set in the menu config for the e3?
In Description you will find link to the video that has all the details: RPI Wiring/Initial setup by NERO 3D. Also in BTT GitHub you will find PinOut scheme just in case you need it.
i want to replace build surface ender 3 v2 with pei spring steel but i'm still confused about choosing pei textured or smooth to print abs and pla do you have any recommendations for me
You can find double sided PEI sheets where one side is smooth and another is textured, difference usually about 10$ and it's worth it. I personally mostly use textured. By my opinion PEI sheet is the #1 update to have, solved most of the issues with adhesion and doesn't require any glue sticks or any other solution, only IPA before print. As it is a coated(textured) or glued(smooth) surface it is not as durable as glass and i recommend to have auto-bed leveling with it cus if you will run nozzle too close there is a chance you will ruin the surface. Proper z-offset calibration will keep it good for a long time. Good Luck ;-)
That's a trip, I love the glass bed. All my prints stick and pop right off. Pla to abs. The only thing I have to do is clean it with isopropyl alcohol. I don't like having to touch my bed for any reason. Although, now with the proliference of Auto bed leveling it's not as much of an issue.
Just ordered the new s1 and it has a spring steel sheet. So I guess I'll know soon which one I really prefer.
@@hobbyistnotes I have an E3V2 and I've never had to use glue or anything on my glass bed.
Everything sticks. From pla to abs/asa. All I do is clean the bed after every 10 or so prints with isopropyl alcohol.
Not one issue with Prints sticking in 9 months using it daily, all day.
I really don't understand why people struggle with this so much. Tells me they're not leveling the bed properly, using the right temperatures or not using an enclosure when necessary or don't know how to use rafts and brims properly.
@@dangerous8333 I don't think it's that simple of an equation, not only print surface playing the role: ambient temps, quality of the plastic, leveling and slicing. For me stock "ultrabase style" print bed worked well only with PLA. I don't like PLA's sweet-odor and mostly use PETG, which is in my environment only sticks well to PEI. I spent countless days debugging "ultrabase style" print bed (i think i printed about thousand of calibration cubes), it drove me crazy as it has failed me too many times, where PEI worked perfect since installation and was total fool proof. In last 4 months of use PEI I lost 0 prints due to adhesion no matter how bad was leveling or what material used + it has nice texture(not everyone like it tho). Also as I use Omron inductive probes they only work with spring steel sheet and per my math: PEI bed + Fast ABL = BLTouch (laggy in enclosed env). The reason why I pref to use ABL with spring steel sheet is cus I take it off all the time and it's easy to mess with leveling.
Hi, is it possible to connect LCD 12864 to this board BIGTREETECH BTT SKR Mini E3 V3.0?
Yes.
You did it? what parameters did you put in the cfg file?
bonjour j'aimerais savoir si on pouvez garder l'encrant tous en installant klipper comme vous le faite un tuto dispo ?
Hello, I do not speak French and translator doesn't translate your question well enough to understand. Thank you.
hi, with this board it is no longer necessary to buy a rasperri to install clipper?
Hello, at this point Klipper is a two board solution: motherboard's MCU does very low amount of work and executes simple instructions where RPi is doing all the processing... As far I am aware there is no way to run Klipper without second computing board such RPi. BUT! There are very huge amount of other computing boards and old PCs or laptops under 50$ that you can use for such work, you pretty much just need any Linux machine with USB port.
@@hobbyistnotescant i just use BTT pi to run Klipper on a stock ender 3 pro without having to flash the stock board?
@@NagashiChidorii No, You will have to flash the board, but it's easy as you don't have to disassemble your printer. Stock board running Marlin and Klipper is a 2 side system one side running on the Motherboard another one on Host PC like RPi or BTT Pi or some other single board computer.
As I am installing my board I have one extra set of tiny red and black wires. What do I do with those?
If you installing it on Ender 3 you will need to crimp hotend cooling fan wires with JST connector as this board have connector instead of Screw in terminal for this fan.
how did you connect the screen? ext 3 on the lcd directly with the stock cable on the e3 v3 board? I cant find any information on this
What exact model of lcd? What printer?
@@hobbyistnotes enh12864z-1 v1 and ender 5. I think i may just have to plug it in with the default cable. Found a small note in the manual of the btt mb, whichs says, it should be compatible.
@@theBugfisch123 Yes stock cable works, you can see the way I have connected it. No mods.
@@hobbyistnotes great, thank you very much! Sorry for wasting your time
nice one!
Thanks!
Thank you for the video I want to install klipper on my ender 3 pro with the skr mini e3 v3 but I don't what configuration I need to put on it can you help me?
Official klipper config by BTT is equivalent to Ender 3 with BLtouch. You can start here: github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V3.0/Klipper
@@hobbyistnotes thanks so i need to put the skr mini configutation and so i can start printing?
@@mattiamusica3059Steps: Install MainsailOS on you Raspberry Pi or equivalent computer. Compile a klipper firmware and flash SKR board with it. Upload Klipper config from repo over your Mainsail. Make sure SKR board is connected to Raspberry Pi. Here is a good video how to do it: th-cam.com/video/gfZ9Lbyh8qU/w-d-xo.html
@@hobbyistnoteswhy is raspberry pi needed? Cant i do it with any other linux system or virtualbox on my windows pc running the linux OS?
@@NagashiChidorii Yes you can run Klipper on most Linux distros and this tool will help to install it: github.com/dw-0/kiauh I personally was able to make it work with VirtualBox but it's definitely not a task for beginner.
Are you running Octopi? or what was that running on the computer?
Fluid Pi with Klipper on the printer.
@@hobbyistnotes Im gonna try it out tonight, wish me luck!!!
@@curtismenzies428 If you will use FluidPi or Mainsail better to use FluidPi/Mainsail OS. Easy few clicks configuration than doing own assembly from scratch.
@@hobbyistnotes !! BLTouch failed to raise probe...im so close and don't want to give up. I love this interface so much more than octoprint. I can get X/Y to home but im using a BL-touch with the 4.2.7 board. So the Z endstop might be different in my printer.cfg.
@@curtismenzies428 Make sure your wiring is ok, as i had same issue, on the start of the printer my Ender wasn't able to process initialization of the probe, also you need to take a look at Klipper's documentation regarding BLTouch.
What printer.cfg file do you have that the LCD display works for you
Take a look at this one: github.com/irebane/my-printers-misc/blob/main/ender3-skr-mini-v3-voron-th-klipper-printer.cfg
@@hobbyistnotes Thanks a lot, it finally worked :)
We're you able to install the board with a bl touch
It’s supports BLTouch.
What is the position for the 24v cable?
What exact 24v? DC in? Take a look at the board User Manual, link is in description.
@@hobbyistnotes the fan from the hot end
@@robindreier68 I used Fan1 and Fan2 headers for hotend and part cooling fans. On this board it’s controllable header so they made it as a connector. Also now it’s adjustable, based on temperature of the hot-end.
Как регулировать напряжение драйвера? Радиатор перекрывает доступ к потенциометрам.
Зависит от того в каком режиме работают драйверы и какая плата. Существует 2 варианта: регулировка подстроечным резистором (рядом с драйвером) или же через прошивку\софт, если драйверы работают в UART. Драйверы на стоковых платах Ender 3 не распаяны для работы в режиме UART (Это можно сделать но то еще тот путь "так сказать" Самурая)
@@hobbyistnotes для этой материнки конкретно. Насколько я понимаю, она работает в режиме UART, и напряжение регулируется через прошивку?
@@user-xk1yq7it8v Именно. Если вы используете Клиппер то в конфигурационном файле указываете значение run_current и hold_current на драйвер. Можете посмотреть пример конфигов в моем GitHub репозитории ссылка в описании. Если используете Marlin то при компиляции в прошивке есть настройки для регулировки vref.
@@hobbyistnotes спасибо!
Hi. How is the progress? Any updates?
Hello, so far no progress, was busy with real life work. Also as I am currently working with more expensive projects, Ender 3v2 screen will get attention when I’ll have more time on my hands, which I think closer to a Christmas holidays. Closely following the topics regarding this issue and if some will post adequate solution I’ll probably make a video about it but odds of it are seems to be low as most ppl just pref to get new 15-30$ screen.
hey, i tried to install it here, but the fan that cools the part and the fan on the board don't turn on!
Do you use Klipper? If so, the way i configured it on this board: hot-end fan turns on only when hot end reaches specific temp, motherboard cooling fan also starts when you use heated bed. So part cooling fan should have speed control rest is just display if it's on or of, there is a chance that you misplaced part cooling fan and Hot-End cooling. Also there is a chance you have wrong Fan settings in your Klipper printer config.
Here are mine setting for fans, mostly default from what is in the btc repo config:
[heater_fan controller_fan]
pin: PB15
heater: heater_bed
heater_temp: 45.0
[heater_fan nozzle_cooling_fan]
pin: PC6
[fan]
pin: PC7
@@hobbyistnotes I'm using the marlin
@@joaovitorcerqueira7090 I haven’t used Marlin that much with this board, but I have tried to recompile Marlin firmware for Ender 3v2 screen and it possible to make new Marlin firmware. It's possible that wrong pins were set in Marlin config on compilation process and to handle fans headers you will need to change config. What I would try first is to download latest pre-compiled Marlin firmware from bigtreetech GitHub repo and flash the board with it ofc if you haven’t done it, otherwise you will need to recompile firmware yourself.
@@joaovitorcerqueira7090 here is the link: github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V3.0/Marlin
What about BLTouch? Is it simple to add?
Yes. There is precompiled firmware with bltouch.
@@hobbyistnotes and I can edit my offsets and everything just as I did using Marlin? Sorry, Klipper is brand new to me.
@@JDMsohc Yes. All printer's settings are living in to the config file at your Raspberry Pi you access it via web-browser thu your pc same as OctoPi and make needed changes by setting values than hit save and use it almost right away.
@@hobbyistnotes ok sweet! Last question, if I already have OctoPrint set up, can I just skip the first part and go straight to installing Klipper?
@@JDMsohc Yes.
Does this work with the 3.5 inch tft btt screen ?
The only TFT screen it works with is: BIGTREETECH TFT35 E3
@@hobbyistnotes yes that's what I have. A ender 3 pro running a micro Swiss all metal hot end , a btt skr mini v3 and the tft35. Currently in custom Marlin. Want to move over to klipper
@@ForwardEngineering There is just no way I am going back to Marlin, Klipper is so much better for all my use cases.
@@hobbyistnotes okay cool just wanted to confirm functionality. Is there any reconfiguration stuff I need to be worried about like e steps, bed leveling mesh, ???
There is a learning curve sometimes filled with frustration, but it’s worth it. Use klipper config from BTT github repo for the board you have and it’s 95% of the work with config done. Now klipper is well documented and a lot of info out there how to proceed, I would recommend you to watch several full guides before starting just to get familiar. Use latest Maisail now it’s the best and MainsailOS has all needed packages preinstalled. If you use RPI mainsail OS is presented in “special images” section of RPI Imager tool.
😁 как приятно слушать такой английский👌🏻
🤷🏻♂️
Воронья голова на нем норм?
@@user-gm9vm9kf3eПринтер уже полностью конвертирован в SwitchWire. А так голова тяжелая и с плохим охлаждением.
@@hobbyistnotes на вайпере прочувствовал, про обдув. По этому спросил. Для одной оси тяжеловато будет
@@user-gm9vm9kf3e Ребята с Ворона создавали голову для печати ABS и для этого она пойдет, хотя новый StealthBurner значительно лучше и для флексов и обдув уже посерьезнее + всякие свистелки типа LED. Я больше повелся на хайп ну и в целом свое удовольствие получил 🙃
Cant your share klipper printer.cfg
I have few moments in my config that will not work for most people, safer if you will use config that is included into Bigtreetech Klipper Github repository. Please check description for the link. File named: SKR-mini-E3-V3.0-klipper.cfg
Added link to a git-hub repo with my configs
Its too bad klipper does not support the new v2 screen.
I read somewhere that people connect screen directly to a RPi via GPIO and it will works, so theoretically it’s possible.
Давай по русски)
Я подумаю ;-)
Наша родная аудитория тоже не маленькая)) но решать тебе :)
@@brabus9294 Изначальной идеей было улучшение Английского языка в процессе создания контента и да я согласен с тем что аудитория не маленькая.
@@hobbyistnotes я так и понял) сам когда то записал видео на английском китайскому другу =)) тоже в части практики английского
If I install one lcd screen on Raspberry Pi, can I control trough LCD touch screen? No need notebook or PC?
You can, especially if you tune it well. BUT that is not where Klipper shines, if you need such simple executor may be make sense to take a loot at Marlin?
@@hobbyistnotesI undertand, i will take some days to do, bu i have raspberry, e3d v3 board, 7 inch lcd screen...i know im will fight, im asking about the control trough lcd screen, because my old board and printer is LK4 Pro (Alphawise U30 Pro), and the lcd is not compatible (at least on my ressearch), with the e3d v3 bbt, than i buy a 7 inch lcd screen on aliexpress.
So, i can calibrate the printer whith klipper usar interface like marlin?
I know i have a lot of research, im just try obtain this question before start conversion.
Thank you very much, best regards from Brazil. I subscribe, awesome channel, thank you again for share your awesome work!
@@PauloIrineudeSouza Yes it can do most of the things that Malrin does. Best research in this case will be to try it. Personally after using Klipper for last 2 years there is no way I will go back to Marlin with it's dumb small tiny screen controls and etc. An amount of freedom and controls over your printer with Klipper is just mind blowing. It's hard to explain you just have to experience it. May be for "dumb" print farm where printers prints same part 24x7 Marlin is good but if you want full control without a lot of hustle Klipper is the way to go and only RepRap can compete with Klipper but I haven't personally tried it as Klipper has all I need and more.
@@PauloIrineudeSouza I am not using screens on my setups at all as I have PC in my hobby room. So it's really depends on your needs. If you have PC nearby just convert over Klipper try it and if needed get yourself a screen. With e3d v3 bbt there is 2 ways to use screen one is as in video connected to the BTT board another is to connect screen to the RPI directly, in both ways you just need to figure pinout and most screens are supported. So what I am saying whatever screen you have might already work with hardware you have.
@@hobbyistnotes I understand, because i need slicer and configure the stl first, so if i using a notebook for this, makes a lot of sense do it all the rest for user interface on notebook, trough ip...
Many thanks for your generous explanation! Will be very good to me all the learning procces. Thanks a lot!!!!