I am so sad that I finished my wiring and most of my klipper yesterday with virtually no reliable information on this board but I am excited that you did it and I will learn even more about this monster.
The kraken would make a great CNC controller board with the 4 higher amp drivers. So far I am very happy with my Leviathan it's reliable and working perfectly.
Generally yes, finished a K3 using the octopus pro last month, and with 4 5160s and 4 2209s -- it was a pretty close in price. The only issue is, this thing is HUGE. There is no cm4 module drop in here, so you have to have space for the 48v, 24v, 5v, pi, and this behemoth. I barely had room for the octopus pro, this would be a really tight fit.
I purchased one and was talking about it on discord when someone mentioned they had sent their Kraken back because they could not change the voltage on each driver. Since the only motor that can't take 60 volt in the setup I'm planning for the Kraken is the extruder it doesn't matter for me, the extruder has a 24 volt TMC chip on the hothead board.
This is why DIY printers are the best ones out there... the customizability. the personalization. the performance. the FUN and REWARD after a good build. the ability to MAKE something how YOU want it. I might just buy and yeet this thing on my build in the near future...
Pretty good review but having two CAN ports doesn't make it more suitable for IDEX than one CAN port. CAN is a bus protocol, it supports several dozen nodes on a single network.
I've had one and got it going fairly easy however the sensor less homing was a bear till I figured out the jumpers you needed to set and now that it's printing well I figured I would go the AWD route for giggles. All in all it's been very good though it does like firmware reboots between prints or the homing is not so great.
One thing i am confused about, this board looks awesome.... but why do I need a Pi? Can't I just install Linux (Klipper) directly to this board? All these bells and whistles but we still need a companion computer to run Pi? Is that correct?
Yes, you do need a Pi or Linux computer to run Klipper. If you do not want to use a pi for some reason, then you can install Marlin which doesn't require a pi. The pi is needed to handle wifi, klipperscreen, and Mainsail/Fluidd.
I picked up the Kraken, due to the need for the 8 motor drivers. However, I am a little confused on how to set up motor 3 being the 2nd Z stepper I want to configure for the 5th extruder. The Kraken has many bells and whistles that led me to pick that board. I am excited to be building with this board. I have a 5 in 1 out setup, built around a 5 input diamond hot end.
I would rather know if they plan better customer support of this board. having had 2 Mini e3 v3 boards die in less then a week from each other and fighting BTT for over 2 months for RMA/replacements makes me money shy to use them as the board supplier for any of my builds.
This board requires tuning and it isn’t a general purpose controller. VZBot team let me know they don’t recommend it for the printer due to risk of damaging the Nema 17 stepper motors. Be sure to use high current steppers that can handle the minimum output.
Hey could you do a video comparing boards suitable for the V0.2? Like BTT SKR Mini E3 V3.0 and FYSETC Cheetah V3.0. This could help someone upgrading a V0.0 or V0.1 to a new version. I noticed the BTT board is older and lacks CAN Bus but has a good manual. There are some Pros and Cons to both of them.
Might be worth to Mention that the Minimum Output Power for the Stepper is 1.7A. there are already cases of people frying stepper with this board because of the Minimum current the board offers. this is to much for LDO 2504 and lower powered Stepper.
Another awesome video. Thank You. I learn so much from your video's. Any chance you could do a video on Orca and or Prusaslicer most especially covering setting them up for multiple printer use cases. I find myself very confused about the proper way to use them with multiple printers. The connections between print settings profiles and different printers and the need / use of physical printers on top of regular printers. It's quite confusing. My settings are a mess because I just don't get it. Coming from being a long time Cura user may be part of the problem. Maybe a video of setting Orca or PrusaSlicer up from scratch for multiple printers and setting up a couple of print settings profiles and a couple of filament profiles. Switching from one printer to another. Mind you - I stumble through it no problem. I just don't feel like I get it and I feel like I'm missing out on a much better experience. Like sometimes my ip address for my printer disappears and I wonder why. Have I not set it up properly or have I done something that caused the loss. Is it just me?
I would like to see the mcu and fixed tmc drivers from kraken with the wifi config from octopus pro, and for each driver 5A capable capacitors, because you could use rrf for cnc and 3d print, one board to rule them all, i am will using the octopus pro with slight mod to the capacitor 2 to 3Amps, must see how to solder them on the board, than i can use it for cnc and nema23 motors it will be advantageous😅
I won one on a BTT giveaway, i received mine just 2 weeks ago, thinking of turning my Trident 350 into a 4WD monolith build with super power LDO motors, wish me luck, my wallet is already crying
It doesn't run Klipper Host. You need to Pi to run it. The MCU can be flashed for Klipper but it still needs to be hooked up to Pi/Computer. There is not an onboard SOC.
Not going to lie, but I wish I got free stuff so that I could use and replace my outdated stuff. :) but for sure this is the board I am going with and then looking into AWD my V2
Do you know that there is zero difference between the 2160 and the 5160 within a 3D printer? The only real difference is that you would be paying more for the 5160 for hardware designed for other industrial applications that neither Klipper, Marlin nor RRF even have the ability to activate.
@@bigtreetech5117 well some of use cant use this board , i've already sent a ticket, we are already 2 ppl with problems , my problem = Unable to write tmc spi ‘stepper_z’ register GLOBALSCALER on all drivers with connected or not connected motors.🤣 so release the best.
One thing should add is that. These board should have more protection for surging voltage. I have all my 3d printer dead except one when a lightning strike near by my home. The only 3d printer survive is a printer with smoothie board and all dead are BTT board. Not to be discriminate but all other electronics devices from china made are dead. All of the survive are actually all the same brand and all the dead are same brand. All Leviton smart light is dead while all the Lutron light is survive. Not sure what Leviton and Lutron are come from but after this incident I am kind of uncertain of using BTT board to build my printer(The Rasbery Pi actually survive). So far my choice of board will be on hold.
One important difference: the tmc5160 on the leviathan support sensorless homing, the tmc2160 used on the kraken dont support it, although in a HV scenario, or even multiple stepper per axis, you dont want sensorless anyway
@@lap87 ups, mixed something up there. It does support sensorless homing, although im not sure if you want that for HV applications. For idex you definitely dont want it or if you drive one axis with multiple stepper like a annex k3 does, it cant get your axis out of alignment.
How common is 4x Z-Axis and how common is AWD? Has something recent come out? I don't think it's too much of an issue. If someone is throwing AWD on a V2.4 they are probably going to add Canbus toolhead anyway. Same if they add actual self leveling on a VzBot. I don't know many details about Ratrig or Annex, honestly so maybe I'm missing their requirements.
@@nitroburner77 The AWD is the method to gain speed, the triple Z has gotten simplified and very useful as well as cost effective, can bus to the head has gotten to the point where everyone has $14 boards with TMC chips, canbus, USB, MAX thermistors controllers, RGB and other signals, reducing the tangled wire mess going to the hotend. Now with Beacon like scanners replacing all other forms of bed leveling and Z axis control, the USB to the hotend will take off, it already has, the K1 has two USB port in the hotend.
@@airheadbit1984 my point was 8 drivers is plenty unless you're doing quad Z AND AWD without Canbus on the toolhead or using multiple toolheads (again without Canbus). Those particular setups commonly use Canbus (or USB).
I am so sad that I finished my wiring and most of my klipper yesterday with virtually no reliable information on this board but I am excited that you did it and I will learn even more about this monster.
The kraken would make a great CNC controller board with the 4 higher amp drivers. So far I am very happy with my Leviathan it's reliable and working perfectly.
This would fit perfectly in an Annex K3 which you should definitely build
Mine isn’t even finished yet and I agree
Generally yes, finished a K3 using the octopus pro last month, and with 4 5160s and 4 2209s -- it was a pretty close in price. The only issue is, this thing is HUGE. There is no cm4 module drop in here, so you have to have space for the 48v, 24v, 5v, pi, and this behemoth. I barely had room for the octopus pro, this would be a really tight fit.
@@kazolarwhat’s the 5v for? If it’s for the pi it’s not needed, power the pi from the mcu.
I love your intro! It's groovy, it's short. I'm not a printer builder nor tinkerer, but just for the sake of your intro I had to watch!
This boards are getting very impressive! Handy for those of us who run custom setups
I purchased one and was talking about it on discord when someone mentioned they had sent their Kraken back because they could not change the voltage on each driver. Since the only motor that can't take 60 volt in the setup I'm planning for the Kraken is the extruder it doesn't matter for me, the extruder has a 24 volt TMC chip on the hothead board.
This is why DIY printers are the best ones out there... the customizability. the personalization. the performance. the FUN and REWARD after a good build. the ability to MAKE something how YOU want it.
I might just buy and yeet this thing on my build in the near future...
Great video as always
The LDO would be my choise, mostly becource there are fan-speed feedback.
Thanks for sharing your expirences with all of us 🙂
There are two ports on the Kraken that offer 4 wire PWM fan control with speed feedback.
Pretty good review but having two CAN ports doesn't make it more suitable for IDEX than one CAN port. CAN is a bus protocol, it supports several dozen nodes on a single network.
What about MKS's SKIPR?
Scored this one for 10$ when it released, now i am waiting for the designated voron.
I've had one and got it going fairly easy however the sensor less homing was a bear till I figured out the jumpers you needed to set and now that it's printing well I figured I would go the AWD route for giggles. All in all it's been very good though it does like firmware reboots between prints or the homing is not so great.
One thing i am confused about, this board looks awesome.... but why do I need a Pi? Can't I just install Linux (Klipper) directly to this board? All these bells and whistles but we still need a companion computer to run Pi? Is that correct?
Yes, you do need a Pi or Linux computer to run Klipper. If you do not want to use a pi for some reason, then you can install Marlin which doesn't require a pi. The pi is needed to handle wifi, klipperscreen, and Mainsail/Fluidd.
I picked up the Kraken, due to the need for the 8 motor drivers. However, I am a little confused on how to set up motor 3 being the 2nd Z stepper I want to configure for the 5th extruder. The Kraken has many bells and whistles that led me to pick that board. I am excited to be building with this board. I have a 5 in 1 out setup, built around a 5 input diamond hot end.
You can make your motor port assignments in your printer configuration file inside of klipper.
since 2020 (I mean skr mini e3 v2) I'm quite big fan of BTT boards.
I kinda think if you don’t need the 48V steppers (most people don’t) the octopus is still the best 8 driver board for 1/2 the cost.
Release the Kraken!
Just one thing you got wrong, all the 8 drivers on the Kraken are high voltage, just some have higher Amp rating than others
Yeah, that was a goof. I went over the technical parts a few times yet that still somehow slipped through.
I would love to build the new Voron Phenix with the Kraken as soon as it becomes available.
I2C is a pretty important addition, even though it is pretty much undiscovered country in 3D printing
I would rather know if they plan better customer support of this board. having had 2 Mini e3 v3 boards die in less then a week from each other and fighting BTT for over 2 months for RMA/replacements makes me money shy to use them as the board supplier for any of my builds.
I have the Kraken ,its Works but the USB for the Raspi :( 4,65 V the Raspi is undervoltet .
This board requires tuning and it isn’t a general purpose controller. VZBot team let me know they don’t recommend it for the printer due to risk of damaging the Nema 17 stepper motors. Be sure to use high current steppers that can handle the minimum output.
Got any such recommendations? the fattest nema17 i know of is the 2.8A Super Powers from LDO
This is not accurate. The board is capable of driving very low currents. If I had to guess, there was an error in the users config who reported this.
I have a BCN Epsilon W50 that needs to be reconfigured. Would the Kraken be a good board for an idex printer like the W50?
Seems like the perfect board for the hopefully upcoming The100 v2
Agreed! It's gonna be one of the best printers (I love my The100 v1.1)
the biggest diggerence between this and Ldo Leviathan is that this allows you to make Voron 2.4 tapchanger with very fast Z travel
Hey could you do a video comparing boards suitable for the V0.2? Like BTT SKR Mini E3 V3.0 and FYSETC Cheetah V3.0. This could help someone upgrading a V0.0 or V0.1 to a new version. I noticed the BTT board is older and lacks CAN Bus but has a good manual. There are some Pros and Cons to both of them.
Thanks for the video. What make those boards better to the Manta BTT apart from extra motor and dual canbus? Thanks
How does this compare against Duet mainboard 6HC? Looks like both can run repeal firmware and both have CAN bus expansion capabilities
Voron Phoenix... tease! :)
Might be worth to Mention that the Minimum Output Power for the Stepper is 1.7A. there are already cases of people frying stepper with this board because of the Minimum current the board offers. this is to much for LDO 2504 and lower powered Stepper.
Another awesome video. Thank You. I learn so much from your video's. Any chance you could do a video on Orca and or Prusaslicer most especially covering setting them up for multiple printer use cases. I find myself very confused about the proper way to use them with multiple printers. The connections between print settings profiles and different printers and the need / use of physical printers on top of regular printers. It's quite confusing. My settings are a mess because I just don't get it. Coming from being a long time Cura user may be part of the problem. Maybe a video of setting Orca or PrusaSlicer up from scratch for multiple printers and setting up a couple of print settings profiles and a couple of filament profiles. Switching from one printer to another. Mind you - I stumble through it no problem. I just don't feel like I get it and I feel like I'm missing out on a much better experience. Like sometimes my ip address for my printer disappears and I wonder why. Have I not set it up properly or have I done something that caused the loss. Is it just me?
How about the Ocotpus XL? This board seems a good match for a voron with the ERCF?
I have been Chasing the Kraken for a long time now! :-)
i knew it as soon as i saw your name 😂
I would like to see the mcu and fixed tmc drivers from kraken with the wifi config from octopus pro, and for each driver 5A capable capacitors, because you could use rrf for cnc and 3d print, one board to rule them all, i am will using the octopus pro with slight mod to the capacitor 2 to 3Amps, must see how to solder them on the board, than i can use it for cnc and nema23 motors it will be advantageous😅
So, with up to 8 drivers, can the kraken allow IDEX set up with awd?
running something like 1.6A Steppers on 8A Drivers... there might be surprises ahead
I am trying to upgrade a 3D printer that uses 4 servo's. Does anyone know if I can use this board since it only has one servo port?
I won one on a BTT giveaway, i received mine just 2 weeks ago, thinking of turning my Trident 350 into a 4WD monolith build with super power LDO motors, wish me luck, my wallet is already crying
Anyone have opinions on the btt octopus max Ez board...with 10 of the Ez drivers
What is the pi for if it can run klipper? Wifi?
It doesn't run Klipper Host. You need to Pi to run it. The MCU can be flashed for Klipper but it still needs to be hooked up to Pi/Computer. There is not an onboard SOC.
Not going to lie, but I wish I got free stuff so that I could use and replace my outdated stuff. :) but for sure this is the board I am going with and then looking into AWD my V2
What are the advantages of using 2160 drivers vs 5160? 2160 is used more for CNC so I just wonder why use them instead of 5160
It bigger than some 3D printers :)
Does this board have 12v gate driven 5160s on it? Or is this yet another board with 5v gate drivers? -- Edit: Eww...it's only 2160s? :[
Do you know that there is zero difference between the 2160 and the 5160 within a 3D printer? The only real difference is that you would be paying more for the 5160 for hardware designed for other industrial applications that neither Klipper, Marlin nor RRF even have the ability to activate.
@@bigtreetech5117 well some of use cant use this board , i've already sent a ticket, we are already 2 ppl with problems , my problem = Unable to write tmc spi ‘stepper_z’ register GLOBALSCALER on all drivers with connected or not connected motors.🤣 so release the best.
Looks like a hier quality board than the cheap panda-bear ones from ali and crapbay.
Thank you. I see it’s overkill for a modified Ender 3 Pro lol
lol yes definitely. I’d check out a manta board or skr for that.
@@ModBotArmy I have now a SKR MINI E3V3. Running latest Marlin, I think.
One thing should add is that. These board should have more protection for surging voltage. I have all my 3d printer dead except one when a lightning strike near by my home. The only 3d printer survive is a printer with smoothie board and all dead are BTT board. Not to be discriminate but all other electronics devices from china made are dead. All of the survive are actually all the same brand and all the dead are same brand. All Leviton smart light is dead while all the Lutron light is survive. Not sure what Leviton and Lutron are come from but after this incident I am kind of uncertain of using BTT board to build my printer(The Rasbery Pi actually survive). So far my choice of board will be on hold.
I want dat Kraken
One important difference: the tmc5160 on the leviathan support sensorless homing, the tmc2160 used on the kraken dont support it, although in a HV scenario, or even multiple stepper per axis, you dont want sensorless anyway
I have no idea where this information stems from, but that is not accurate at all.
@@lap87 ups, mixed something up there. It does support sensorless homing, although im not sure if you want that for HV applications. For idex you definitely dont want it or if you drive one axis with multiple stepper like a annex k3 does, it cant get your axis out of alignment.
No nethernet is just backwards
Not a review! but spec read out!
Thats one way to get a free lightburn licence, just wear a tshirt..
I work for LightBurn. Check out their TH-cam channel 😊
@@ModBotArmy what 😯 soo cool man! I use it for a modded k40 makerbase dlc32. Its the shit man !
If a TMC dies, you can throw it away.
Btt drivers are not very reliable, I’ll stick to a board with replaceable drivers.
None of them is good, you cant exchange the stepper drivers if one fails. so ... garbage.
small correction: i2c is actually i-square-c: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I%C2%B2C
8 Drivers isn't that much. 4x Z-Axis and 4x AWD and suddenly you are forced to use CAN-bus for your extruder because you don't have any drivers left.
How common is 4x Z-Axis and how common is AWD? Has something recent come out? I don't think it's too much of an issue. If someone is throwing AWD on a V2.4 they are probably going to add Canbus toolhead anyway. Same if they add actual self leveling on a VzBot. I don't know many details about Ratrig or Annex, honestly so maybe I'm missing their requirements.
@@nitroburner77 The AWD is the method to gain speed, the triple Z has gotten simplified and very useful as well as cost effective, can bus to the head has gotten to the point where everyone has $14 boards with TMC chips, canbus, USB, MAX thermistors controllers, RGB and other signals, reducing the tangled wire mess going to the hotend. Now with Beacon like scanners replacing all other forms of bed leveling and Z axis control, the USB to the hotend will take off, it already has, the K1 has two USB port in the hotend.
@@airheadbit1984 my point was 8 drivers is plenty unless you're doing quad Z AND AWD without Canbus on the toolhead or using multiple toolheads (again without Canbus). Those particular setups commonly use Canbus (or USB).
soldered drivers? no thanks!
Have you ever had to replace a driver?
@@rainforestnomadyes, i have.
@@rainforestnomad I think it's more about upgradability.
@@rainforestnomadI have
When your pushing higher power/voltage, the connection becomes a concern.