I changed the timing chain and components. I used all the timing tools to make sure my fusion 2.0 was in time. When I started it back up it is shooting the P0016 code. Any ideas where to start with that code? Thank you.
Never had anything apart except the timing chain components. Not sure about a flywheel tool. I happened to have the kit for the chain that goes in the front of the crank and across the back of the cams.
I was just curious cus the kits I'm looking at have the fly wheel lock tool too. I'm just wanting to do it in the car instead of pulling the engine. Guy I bought it from had the bolt that runs the vacuum pump break and then jack a$$ tried drilling it and ruined the cam "of course this wasn't disclosed during the negotiation" instead of welding a nut to it and backing it out. Any pointers would be much appreciated and thanks for your time.
There are several different kits available and they often add parts to make them useful for more than one application. Lord knows Ford has 8 different ways of doing things at any given moment. What I'm showing here applies only to this particular engine. The 2 liter turbo. It was in the car when I did all this. As far as the broken bolt, it's been a while since I did this but if I remember correctly the vacuum pump bolts to the head and only slots into the cam. That being the case, I would have immediately went with welding a nut on the broken bolt if an auto punch didn't spin it right out. You MIGHT be able to use a heli coil to remedy the messed up hole in the aluminum head.
If only it was the bolts that hold the vacuum pump on. I'm talking about the drive coupler in the middle of the camshaft itself he must have had a vacuum pump failure and snapped the drive coupler. Then he drilled it out and of course got off center as well slapped a new drive coupler in and it probably worked until another pump failed taking what hope the cam had left with it and then sold it to me lol. " Oh I don't know what it don't have power brakes" lmfao. I appreciate your help ill get the whole kit and use what I can without pulling the engine.
There is a tool kit for timing alignment on these engines. It consists of a flat tool and what looks like a bolt with a lo g tip on it. The cams themselves are lined up by the slots at the opposite ends of the sprockets using a flat tool. The crankshaft is lined up by removing a plug from the block and inserting the tool and BARELY rotating the crankshaft against it until it stops. There are no marks for alignment of the sprockets. When the bolts are tightened they are locked into place. Always gently rotate the crankshaft by hand 2 full revolutions without the spark plugs installed to be sure there is mo binding. That would indicate valve contact with pistons.
I just saw your video and I just got done doing the same thing...but the car won't start. The cam tool, with the off-centered slots..they fit the tool with the slots closer to the block right? What a dumb design!
I changed the timing chain and components. I used all the timing tools to make sure my fusion 2.0 was in time. When I started it back up it is shooting the P0016 code. Any ideas where to start with that code? Thank you.
@@johnwendricks4930 recheck timing and chain tension. If memory serves that's a cam / crank correlation code.
The intake bearing cap has a Hex Head on it, how does it come out? Is it reversed thread?
I'm not sure I understand the question.
My question is so could u use the flywheel holding tool and how did u know if the Ballance shafts were in time without the oil pan removed?
Never had anything apart except the timing chain components. Not sure about a flywheel tool. I happened to have the kit for the chain that goes in the front of the crank and across the back of the cams.
I was just curious cus the kits I'm looking at have the fly wheel lock tool too. I'm just wanting to do it in the car instead of pulling the engine. Guy I bought it from had the bolt that runs the vacuum pump break and then jack a$$ tried drilling it and ruined the cam "of course this wasn't disclosed during the negotiation" instead of welding a nut to it and backing it out. Any pointers would be much appreciated and thanks for your time.
There are several different kits available and they often add parts to make them useful for more than one application. Lord knows Ford has 8 different ways of doing things at any given moment. What I'm showing here applies only to this particular engine. The 2 liter turbo. It was in the car when I did all this. As far as the broken bolt, it's been a while since I did this but if I remember correctly the vacuum pump bolts to the head and only slots into the cam. That being the case, I would have immediately went with welding a nut on the broken bolt if an auto punch didn't spin it right out. You MIGHT be able to use a heli coil to remedy the messed up hole in the aluminum head.
If only it was the bolts that hold the vacuum pump on. I'm talking about the drive coupler in the middle of the camshaft itself he must have had a vacuum pump failure and snapped the drive coupler. Then he drilled it out and of course got off center as well slapped a new drive coupler in and it probably worked until another pump failed taking what hope the cam had left with it and then sold it to me lol. " Oh I don't know what it don't have power brakes" lmfao. I appreciate your help ill get the whole kit and use what I can without pulling the engine.
When do the timing chains normally go bad on the 2.0
I haven't seen that they are a common failure. This one was taken apart to replace the cylinder head after someone overheated it.
What do you line the cam gears up with if they move freely?
There is a tool kit for timing alignment on these engines. It consists of a flat tool and what looks like a bolt with a lo g tip on it. The cams themselves are lined up by the slots at the opposite ends of the sprockets using a flat tool. The crankshaft is lined up by removing a plug from the block and inserting the tool and BARELY rotating the crankshaft against it until it stops. There are no marks for alignment of the sprockets. When the bolts are tightened they are locked into place. Always gently rotate the crankshaft by hand 2 full revolutions without the spark plugs installed to be sure there is mo binding. That would indicate valve contact with pistons.
Whats the torque spec for the cam sprockets
Ford data says 30 ft/lbs + 60°. That should equate to about FN tight.
I just saw your video and I just got done doing the same thing...but the car won't start.
The cam tool, with the off-centered slots..they fit the tool with the slots closer to the block right?
What a dumb design!
It fits in the slots on the ends of the cams and the little thumb screw holds it on the head.