Great video. I would also add, I prefer fipg to ultra on timing cover but it dries fast. Do the center bolts cover then criss.cross. If you try to follow exact sequence for about 40 bolts it will be dry long before you reach torque. Copper spray head gasket, cheap insurance Longest timing cover bolt usually is thru upper pulley bolt. Timing cover should have a couple dowels to help placement Copper spray ex gasket Use crabk sensor bolt lower pulley 6 o clock. If you use one too long interferes with holding tool Sealer around watwr passage egr both sides cheap insurance Sealer water neck same Use name brand timing pin or kit only. Some aftermarket are actually slightly off. Ford has them for around 30 dollars. If older vehicle check seam around Intake for leaks. I find many running on terms just u Der miles threshold for this reason and don't know it. Some cheaper timing pins won't stand up to impact even with holder. Recommend added leverage method instead. Long enough bar you can break or reinstall.
Good video, just note there are two diamond friction washers, another behind the sprocket that should be changed also cam sprockets should be loose when chain is tensioned then these are torqued once cam tool is installed. This would remove the small error that needed to corrected at the end of the video on the intake cam.
Thanks Slip Stream, you’re right about the cam sprockets. I was avoiding that because I was reusing the chain and guides. As far as washer #2, I actually bought the second one, but decided against using it. Service data didn’t mention replacing it and I didn’t want to mess with the oil pump.
@@ToolDemos Good luck. That 4$ part is literally the only the only thing keeping your valves from kamikazeing through your pistons and making one big happy family in the oil pan/on the side of the road.
@@ToolDemosso if you replace the head with a serviced head that comes with camshafts, can you reuse the sprockets from your old head and reuse the chain? and how do you know the new head with camshaft is synchronised with the crankshaft? Are there any marks on the camshafts telling the valves open and close with the right piston if you know what I mean?
I thank you for the brake down of all your hard work and sharing with us. I hope mine is the simple valve cover gasket seal replacement for a fouling #2 cylinder on my 2010 Ford Transit Connect XLT It's good to see my engine opened so I'll have better information in the future. Grate job.
I'm planning to do this to my Ford Ranger w/2.3L engine. Your video is better than the others out there. I've made comments as "Reply" to a couple of comments below.
Did this guy just say click and pretend his wrench is a torque wrench 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 not judging. Anything under 10 0inch pounds can be felt out but the “click” was too funny
You make some excellent videos and they are appreciated. Tooling up to do this next spring, had my Ford Focus 2007 since new and it doers lose coolant due to a head gasket leak. It's been that way for years.
really good videos. I have watched all the videos I could find. Most were very good. Your videos showed some important Technics and engine pictures that clear up some serious doubts. thanks
With the little boat in the harmonic balancer tool on it up be careful you don't screw it into far or you will poke a hole into the timing cover. Be careful how long your boat is
Little things that should have been a second pin in your kit for that pulley in the front and if you're going to do with the torque wrench I do it with a long snap-on torque wrench not a impact gun I don't recommend that at all but make a little line on your socket so you know when you've gotten quarter turn on the socket without having to pull it on and off a few times that will save time
I’ve never seen a gasket for the front cover. And yes, you must use these procedures any time you loosen the crank pulley bolt. Sorry, but they designed this engine without a keyway on the crank.
To adjust the chain you should unscrew the camshafts screws but not completely, just enough for the camshafts move freely, and than release the tensioner, the chain will adjust to the camshaft gears, only than you tighten the camshaft screws.
Sorry but his procedure is WRONG! You NEED to loosen both camshaft sprockets bolts so they move freely. If you mess with the wrench while the timing tool is installed you risk to damage the camshaft and definitely bend the tool. The purpose of the Duratec not having a keyway on the cam- and crankshaft is that the tension of the timing chain will adjust itself because all sprockets are loose. You just install the timing bar and both timing pins (one on the left from crankshaft pully into engine block, after that one trough the hole on the front of crankshaft pully). This sets all components of the engine in TDC. Then release the chain tensioner and fasten the cam- and cranshaft bolts. This makes working on the timing chain very easy and foolproof - if you know the procedure. Check out Alan Howatt Video "Timing Chain, Ford Mondeo Mk3 2L Duratec" for better and step by step information.
Yes, this what the ford service manual says when installing timing chain. When those both camshaft sprockets bolts are loosen the camshafts will auto adjust when you get the pin out of the tensioner. Except that this is good video, I like it :)
I have a question! At14:01 when you are turning the crank shaft 1¾ turns you said "I'm going slow, if i feel anything hit in stopping" what does that mean? I am currently at this step and i feel it stopping on me and i can't move the crankshaft anymore, how do i proceed??
What I mean by feeling something stopping, is the possibility that the pistons are touching the valves. If that’s happening, stop right away and put everything back to zero. Make sure that all of the tools are in place to keep the entire engine at top dead center.
The balancer bolt is torqued down to 75 foot pounds +90°. That’s enough force on the friction washer between the balancer and the chain sprocket to keep them fixed in place.
If I need to remove the camshafts for a tappet based valve adjustment, will I be able to free the teeth from the chain by tipping up the opposite end of the first camshaft? Of course I will bungee up the chain so it stays on the crankshaft down below. 2.5 2011 Escape.
That’s tough to say, I imagine that the bottom of the sprocket might hit the cylinder head. You’d also potentially hit the timing cover with the chain/sprocket.
So here’s the deal. I removed cams before cranking over the crankshaft to TDC, and now the timing chain is bound up. How do I set the cylinders TDC and the cams in the proper orientation as to not detonate the motor moving forward? I am guessing remove harmonic balancer to get the timing cover off, get the head off to replace the gasket like I needed to do anyway, and orientate the piston heads correctly, then how are the cams set?
Right, you have to remove the balancer and the timing cover. You’ll need to buy the tool kit to set the engine top and bottom to TDC. Once you have the head installed, then install the cams at TDC and use the timing tool to keep them there.
What a clear and detailed walk-thru...I watched this out of interest, not because I am doing the job, and the point that really came through was what a PITA this is in comparison to a keywayed crankshaft vehicle; doing my timing belt on a MK3 Escort was so simple in comparison to this!...couple of questions: 1. I assume the procedure/tools are the same on MK2 Focus engines that have a Timing Belt rather than a chain, as these don't have a keywayed shaft either? 2. A friend has a MK2 Focus late 2007 1.8 petrol, am I right in believing that it has a chain rather than a belt? Thanks for your help.
The earlier models had a Ford Zetec engine with a timing belt. Later models used a Duratec (Mazda) engine like the one in the video and almost certainly in your friend’s 2007. To answer your first question, in my limited experience, the earlier Ford Zetec engine did have a keyway on the crankshaft.
@@ToolDemos Thank you, as I thought....the car has a Zetec badge BUT Ford started to use this as a 'style' designation ie. like base model, LX, zetec etc WITHOUT being a Zetec engine, instead using a Duratec engine; how to confuse your customer base eh?! :-)))
How do you align the BALANCE SHAFT? Everyone says crankshaft should be TDC, and the marks on the BALANCE SHAFT should be perpendicular... question is should they be pointing to the ground or to the engine?
@@pingpong9656 okay, gotcha. That engine is a bit different. Here’s the shop manual for it: charm.li/Mazda%20Truck/2010/CX-7%20AWD%20L4-2.3L%20Turbo/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/Engine%2C%20Cooling%20and%20Exhaust/Engine/Timing%20Components/Timing%20Chain/Service%20and%20Repair/
Thanks for nice video, just one quick question?work on ford escape 2.3 engine year 2006 did it with patience everything, jump intake camshaft sprocket twice, I tight perfect 65 ft-lbs and little over .
I'm now into my 2009 2.3L Ford Ranger. It doesn't look bad. At least on the top. There's not a lot of slop between the cam sprockets. And I have noticed that the teeth on the cam sprockets have wear marks that alternate on every other tooth. One tooth makes contact with the chain in the center of the tooth and the next tooth makes contact with the chain on the outside edges and not in the middle. Do I really need to do this? The vehicle has 137K mi on it and has always had good oil.
As far as I know, this engine doesn’t have oiling issues. The CKP should be replaced (according to Ford) due to it needing a positioning tool when you install it. Buy it from Ford, they don’t cost much.
@@ToolDemos do you think I should go deeper and replace head gasket even though there's no sign of it being bad. I don't want to take it apart again. I found a video on TH-cam of a guy who made it to 500,000 miles until his timing chain broke. So idk. I'm not a real mechanic, I need to buy a torque wrench.
@@xlargetophat I would never advise someone to replace a head gasket unless it were leaking. Not only is it more work but it opens up another can of worms.
@@ToolDemos ok good. I'm not that organized and I doubt I could do it. I do know of a shop that could probably do the grinding on the heads . I think I need to eventually do the timing chain because I found a piece of plastic when I removed the valve cover and replaced the gasket this summer. Small black piece, and now I'm thinking it was a piece of the timing guard rail.
I have a question I have both the crankshaft and the camshafts perfectly in time but the harmonic balancer 8 millimeter bolt for aligning it is tight when the engine is at top dead center. For example I can thread it in 2 full turns before it gets tight, is that okay or should I redo it?
If you can get that little bolt threaded in and turn it two times, I would call that close enough. I actually can’t understand why it wouldn’t thread all the way in if it goes in two turns. Remember that the most important job of that balancer being in time is to give the crank sensor the correct position reading.
@@ToolDemosupdate: I successfully retimed my first ever engine after screwing it up on accident and I started it today and it ran like a dream. Thank you so much if it wasn’t for your video I don’t think I could have done it because I am by no means a real mechanic!
Lock the top and bottom of the engine at top dead center. Install the cam sprockets with new washers, but leave them loose. Hang the chain around the cams and crankshaft. Open the chain tensioner. Now torque down your camshaft sprockets. Edit: Hold the camshaft with a wrench when you torque the cam sprocket bolt, the lock tool is not made to do that job.
Im working on a 2018 ford focus se 2.0 durahtech and i seen you put the crankshaft pulley on aligned with the TDC but when you put the CKP sensor you didnt align the marking of that comes on one of tooth with the ckp sensor you just put the sensor on with the alignment tool. Im stuck in this spot and can't figure out what to do because its telling me to align the pulley with the tdc hole like you did then it says the marking on the should align with the ckp sensor and that should be TDC too so how are their 2 TDC, im not sure what to do
That second mark they’re talking about must be a new feature on those newer engines. There were no marks to line up for me, just had to use the tool. If you don’t see another way forward, you might just do it with the alignment tool. If it starts and doesn’t generate any timing codes, you win.
Hi! The crankshaft gear for these engines with part number 1S7Z6306CF has notches on its mating planes (ends). Are diamond-coated washers necessary when installing such a gear?
@@ToolDemos I spent a lot of time trying to find accurate information, but I didn’t find anything other than the private opinion of garage mechanics in the Russian-speaking part of the Internet. Official information from Ford could not be found. Perhaps I was unable to formulate an exact English-language Google query.
@@VasiliyLomovoy Ford offers their entire library of dealership-level repair information to anybody: www.motorcraftservice.com/ the catch: it’ll cost ya about $20
You need to use a timing tool kit: amzn.to/3Qy6m8M then you can watch me use it at the 12 minute mark in this video here: th-cam.com/video/v-Tmt9wlIY4/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jose, if all you were doing is the timing chains, tensioner, and guides there is no break in period. As long as everything was installed correctly, just go for it.
There are definitely similarities between the two engines as they are from the same engine family. There are also major differences, including variable valve timing that you need to account for. I would recommend buying a 72 hour subscription to Ford’s online service manual. You can print out the entire procedure and keep it on file.
Yes Sergio, balance shafts are timed to the engine. But, this engine doesn’t have a balance shaft. The sprocket you see below the crankshaft just turns the oil pump.
Make 100% sure you’re using the correct pin. They have two different lengths. Also, make sure to screw it in all the way. Once you make sure of those two things, get the crankshaft to stop on that pin - and then if you need to adjust the balancer, go ahead and loosen it up and adjust it to match that bolt hole.
@@ToolDemos Ok thank you Just got it all back together good and Now im not getting power to my fuel injectors but im getting fuel pressure to my rail did i MIss something?
Hello do you know . does the chain move freely between the two teeth on the shafts, the stroke is about 1 cm. and when the engine is warm, I have a noise, I thought it was a hydraulic lifter, but the noise comes from the chain car is fiesta st 150
So the last time a rebuilt a motor it was a Chevy 305 from a 78 caprice. Fast forward to today and a project car, 2009 escape fell into my hands. I ordered a Hanes or Chilton's and none of this is in there. My question is do you get service bulletin from Ford website? I didn't see this there. Basically I am having trouble finding information. My SUV isn't worth the man hours but the fun and education is. Thanks
Had to replace it in a year and a half again the starter . have you worked on starter on 2016 Ford Focus SE 2.0L duratech engine ? Had oil on pinion gear . Trying to find actual oil leak . This mechainc said it's definitely from real seal . Also have valve cover oil leak which might be causing this . In your opinion , can top leak get into starter gear ? Or is it pretty tightly sealed against from the outside ? These other two mechanics said it' could be from top valve cover leak .
Hi Frank, oil leaks can definitely damage a starter. To know for sure if the rear main seal is leaking you want to have a look at the engine side of the flex plate. To do this you’ll need to get under the car and find the cover plate on the bottom of the bell housing. Remove that and have a look at the flex plate, if it looks like streaks of oil are being flung out to the outside teeth of the flex plate - you have a rear main seal leak. Also have a look at the top of the engine just below the valve cover if the valve cover gasket is leaking you’ll see evidence of that on the side of the cylinder head.
@@ToolDemos yes definitely see top valve cover leaking . As to what caused oil getting into starter pinion gear not sure if from that or rear main seal . Will see about removing flex plate and taking a look . Last mechanic I talked to said could be from top valve cover leak and it's always best to start from top leaks on down . Gotta fix that anyway . So , i guess fix valve cove then see if that fixes it . ?
@@frankmontez6853 Yes exactly. Your mechanic has good advice for you, especially because fixing the valve cover issue is much easier than replacing a rear main seal. I would recommend cleaning the starter thoroughly after you fix the oil leak up top that way you can quickly spot any new leaks.
@@ToolDemos ok I counted 20 teeth like the procedure said from the gap and tightened the new crankshaft position sensor . Still cranks and no start . Also changed the camshaft position sensor .
I have torn it apart 6 times to try and see if I was missing a step , followed all the procedures , I originally took the head off to replace the valve stem oil seals . And the stems kept falling down but the head gasket was leaking so I have done it multiple times is there a firing order for a 2004 Mazda B2300 2.3 lit . I am stuck on troubleshooting . I have also replaced the fuel filter etc and the fuel pump relay . The inirtia switch has been bypassed . It ran before all the work and now it’s been sitting in my driveway for 3 months trying to find a solution . Oh and thank you so much for replying and helping me out
Great video, ACCEPT, On the last check you did but you had to make a small adjustment on one of the cams to get the slot more horizontal on the end of the camshaft, you made some kind of adjustment to turn the camshaft, but the whatever you did was not in the view finder of the camera. I have no idea what adjustment you made to turn the camshaft? I am in the process of trying to Tom the engine I think this is an important part, my engine keeps feeling like it’s wanting to lock up. How do you adjust the camshaft? Also is there any camshaft position sensors on the Ford 2.3 four-cylinder engine? Thank you
Hello IC, the only thing I did to adjust that camshaft was put a 23 mm wrench on the flats of it to turn it a tiny bit. My assumption was that because the chain I installed was a used one it was a little bit longer than new. I would be very careful right now if it felt like the engine was “locking up“. This is an interference engine and if your timing is off, your pistons can hit the valves. I would go back and make sure that the locking pin for the crankshaft was the correct one. The kit comes with a smaller pin and a longer pin and instructions on which one to use for your application. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until it hits that pin and stops. Then set up your cam shafts so that they lineup with the locking bar. Also remember that the intake camshaft is the one that has the timing ‘arm’ at the very back of it. That is the little protrusion that your cam sensor picks up. That answers your second question, the cam sensor is located on the intake side of the valve cover near the back of the engine.
I was putting torque on the camshaft bearings and I broke the exhaust camshaft against the special tool (that I made sure to buy through your link by the way). Anyways, I see that my exhaust camshaft was definitely not in the same position as yours and thats why it broke on 12ft lbs of torque. Before teardown I set number 1 on tdc compression. Or did I? New exhaust camshaft arrives in 6 days and i'll try again. What would you do in my situation? the tool fit in both shafts but there was a major gap on intake side compared to how yours looked when you set the tool in there. Any advice? Thanks dude your videos are put together real well.
When you recheck timing at the cams and the tool don't slide in then your camshaft ar-180 out. Cam lobes on both cams will be pointing up with intake and exhaust valves are closed tool will not fit if cams are 180 out
Great video. VERY informative. I have an '06 Focus 2.0 runaround and I'm trying to diagnose a possible timing chain tensioner or guide failure. I'm a novice mechanic and wanted to know, in your opinion, before I dive deeper, with the valve cover off and applying pressure on the timing chain with my thumb between the cam sprockets, the cam closest to the radiator will rotate with the amount of force I`m applying, it then it will settle back when I take my thumb off....is that a logical test? Should there really be no movement of the chain or cam with good a tensioner and/or guides when that pressure is applied?
If the intake cam rotates counterclockwise as you push on the chain and then springs back, I would suspect a worn out chain. The problem is not likely to be the timing chain tensioner because it’s on the exhaust side of the engine. Before you pull the timing cover - check to make sure that the crankshaft is not rotating when the cam rotates. If the crankshaft stays put, then all of your play is between the intake cam and the crankshaft. In that case you’ll need a new timing set. I would recommend replacing the chain, the guides, and the tensioner all at one time.
Is $525 a fair price for replacement of pcv valve, rear crankshaft seal ? I think it's a bit much because he'll charge more for valve cover ..2016 Focus SE 2.0L duratech engine
The PCV valve is cheap and easy to replace, but the crankshaft rear seal is not. The transmission has to come out to do that one. Assuming you live in an American city, I’d say you are getting a good price.
@@ToolDemos it's a 2016 Focus SE 2.0L duratech engine. I don't think my timing chain cover is leaking oil but if it was that means the engine crankshaft seal is bad too right?
@@frankmontez6853 Your Engine has two crankshaft seals, one in the front of the engine and one at the rear. The rear crankshaft seal is more commonly known as the rear main seal and that is the one where the transmission has to come out. The front crankshaft seal is in the timing cover and is sealed to the harmonic balancer. If your timing cover is leaking the whole cover has to be removed and re-sealed. If your front crankshaft seal is leaking that can be replaced without removing the timing cover.
Awesome video!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this!! I'm chasing a misfire on cylinder 1 on a 2009 Escape with the 2.5L and 178K miles. I found a pool of oil in the number 1 spark plug well. Thought for sure I had the problem in the bag. Since the engine had 178K miles on it AND the plugs and coils looked original, with FoMoCo identity, I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them. I bought OEM SP-530 plugs and OEM DG-522 coils. Also replaced the valve cover gasket with Fel-Pro. The oil leak is gone the the misfire still exists. Compression is good on all cylinders. I suppose a leak down test wouldn't hurt. Do you have any suggestions where to go next? Again, thank you!!!!!
Hi Dale, I appreciate the compliment. I would still be suspicious of the number one ignition coil. First, pull the coil out of the well, then plug it back in to the electrical connector. Get a test light and hook it to the ground post of the battery, now start your engine. Put the tip of the test light inside the coil boot to see if it is firing (you’ll see a spark jumping to the test light.) If not, I’d suspect a wiring problem to that coil. If the coil checks out OK, reinstall it. Now start your engine again, this time check to see if the fuel injector is firing. To test it, take a long screwdriver and just touch the side of the fuel injector and put your ear up to the handle of the screwdriver. I know it sounds weird but the sound will travel through it and you’ll hear a clicking noise if it’s working. You can compare it to the other ones to see what they should sound like. Hope this helps.
Here's a question that most people don't know to ask do you do it top dead center on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke I'm a mechanic so I know the answer to this one I just wondering why nobody comments on this
You did it wrong. Keep the nut on the sprockets loose enough so they can spin, put the cams in position with the timing tool, now install your tensioner and guides, now put the chain on, and then release the tensioner. With the sprockets lose they can move and the chain will be tight. Now you can torq the sprockets to their spec. Never try to move the cams with the cam tool in place.
Hello sir, I’m a mechanic and I’m very interested with your video Is it ok? if I recap your video ,explaination with Thai language and Thai subtitle in my channel to be knowledge for Thai people who’s interested with the content like this.
I run into this BS with a 4.0 in an 07 ford ranger. I done it as they say to and it lasted about 2 month and a cam bolt slipped. Pure BS. Everything should be keyed.
All that timing talk and no crank sensor talk? Its got to be centered
You’re absolutely right. I put that info in the next video: th-cam.com/video/ETDcGYf7BvY/w-d-xo.html
@@ToolDemos 😭Thank you so much...
Great video.
I would also add, I prefer fipg to ultra on timing cover but it dries fast. Do the center bolts cover then criss.cross. If you try to follow exact sequence for about 40 bolts it will be dry long before you reach torque.
Copper spray head gasket, cheap insurance
Longest timing cover bolt usually is thru upper pulley bolt.
Timing cover should have a couple dowels to help placement
Copper spray ex gasket
Use crabk sensor bolt lower pulley 6 o clock. If you use one too long interferes with holding tool
Sealer around watwr passage egr both sides cheap insurance
Sealer water neck same
Use name brand timing pin or kit only. Some aftermarket are actually slightly off. Ford has them for around 30 dollars.
If older vehicle check seam around Intake for leaks. I find many running on terms just u Der miles threshold for this reason and don't know it.
Some cheaper timing pins won't stand up to impact even with holder. Recommend added leverage method instead. Long enough bar you can break or reinstall.
This is one of the best tutorial videos I have ever seen. Excellent job, I now feel 1000% confident I got my timing correct. Thank you sir!
I appreciate that Doug. I’m glad you got it working.
This mechanic and video well done, watching again and again from Malawi, central Africa.
Yes sir,I to have one of them click torque wrenchs,been using it for 30 years.Hasnt failed yet. But use the big one on the tougher stuff.
Good video, just note there are two diamond friction washers, another behind the sprocket that should be changed also cam sprockets should be loose when chain is tensioned then these are torqued once cam tool is installed. This would remove the small error that needed to corrected at the end of the video on the intake cam.
Thanks Slip Stream, you’re right about the cam sprockets. I was avoiding that because I was reusing the chain and guides.
As far as washer #2, I actually bought the second one, but decided against using it. Service data didn’t mention replacing it and I didn’t want to mess with the oil pump.
@@ToolDemos Good luck. That 4$ part is literally the only the only thing keeping your valves from kamikazeing through your pistons and making one big happy family in the oil pan/on the side of the road.
@@EvlEgle you’re right, I took a risk.
Yeah, I had the same question about the other "friction washer" (actually it is a shim, I believe).
@@ToolDemosso if you replace the head with a serviced head that comes with camshafts, can you reuse the sprockets from your old head and reuse the chain?
and how do you know the new head with camshaft is synchronised with the crankshaft? Are there any marks on the camshafts telling the valves open and close with the right piston if you know what I mean?
Thanks for the video. I've had a really hard time finding one for my 2011 Focus, which has the same 2.0. Very helpful.
I’m glad it helped.
Great informative video. You do a great job and it's nice to see the correct information being put on here. Helps a lot.
Thanks Steve, I thought since this engine has such a complicated procedure it would be helpful to just show that.
Well said
I thank you for the brake down of all your hard work and sharing with us.
I hope mine is the simple valve cover gasket seal replacement for a fouling #2 cylinder on my 2010 Ford Transit Connect XLT
It's good to see my engine opened so I'll have better information in the future.
Grate job.
Thanks. Cheers!
best video on this job I've seen
Thanks, I appreciate that.
I'm planning to do this to my Ford Ranger w/2.3L engine. Your video is better than the others out there. I've made comments as "Reply" to a couple of comments below.
Thank you shade tree. Happy wrenching on that Ranger.
Did this guy just say click and pretend his wrench is a torque wrench 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 not judging. Anything under 10 0inch pounds can be felt out but the “click” was too funny
Straight outta the AvE playbook 😂
Where can I get a mechanics Manuel for a2014 Ford fusion 1.5 echo engine
I think maybe he was merely narrating
You make some excellent videos and they are appreciated. Tooling up to do this next spring, had my Ford Focus 2007 since new and it doers lose coolant due to a head gasket leak. It's been that way for years.
It is a big job, I’m glad you’re preparing ahead of time
absolutely great. excellent camera work too. thanks!
I appreciate that, cheers!
This is excellent 100% tutorial video
Glad it was helpful.
you never mention how to time the crank before installing the chain. Does cylinder 1 need to be at top dead center?
really good videos. I have watched all the videos I could find. Most were very good. Your videos showed some important Technics and engine pictures that clear up some serious doubts. thanks
Thanks TJF! I’m glad they were helpful.
With the little boat in the harmonic balancer tool on it up be careful you don't screw it into far or you will poke a hole into the timing cover. Be careful how long your boat is
I am changing the timing chain cover (Motor Mount Broken) on my 2.0. This Video is perfect! Thanks!!
That’s great, I’m glad it helped.
Little things that should have been a second pin in your kit for that pulley in the front and if you're going to do with the torque wrench I do it with a long snap-on torque wrench not a impact gun I don't recommend that at all but make a little line on your socket so you know when you've gotten quarter turn on the socket without having to pull it on and off a few times that will save time
What tool did you use to hold the pulley? I bought a CTA 5043 tool, but it didnt fit the crank pulley.
That’s the one I bought also. It didn’t fit well at all.
Using the exclamation "CLICK" method is totally legit and 100 percent accurate...lol 😎😎
Absolutely! 👊🏼
Does any sell a gasket for the front timing chain cover? Also this entire procedure must be followed to reseal this timing chain cover? Thanks.
I’ve never seen a gasket for the front cover. And yes, you must use these procedures any time you loosen the crank pulley bolt. Sorry, but they designed this engine without a keyway on the crank.
To adjust the chain you should unscrew the camshafts screws but not completely, just enough for the camshafts move freely, and than release the tensioner, the chain will adjust to the camshaft gears, only than you tighten the camshaft screws.
Good tip.
Sorry but his procedure is WRONG!
You NEED to loosen both camshaft sprockets bolts so they move freely. If you mess with the wrench while the timing tool is installed you risk to damage the camshaft and definitely bend the tool. The purpose of the Duratec not having a keyway on the cam- and crankshaft is that the tension of the timing chain will adjust itself because all sprockets are loose. You just install the timing bar and both timing pins (one on the left from crankshaft pully into engine block, after that one trough the hole on the front of crankshaft pully). This sets all components of the engine in TDC. Then release the chain tensioner and fasten the cam- and cranshaft bolts. This makes working on the timing chain very easy and foolproof - if you know the procedure.
Check out Alan Howatt Video "Timing Chain, Ford Mondeo Mk3 2L Duratec" for better and step by step information.
Yes, this what the ford service manual says when installing timing chain. When those both camshaft sprockets bolts are loosen the camshafts will auto adjust when you get the pin out of the tensioner. Except that this is good video, I like it :)
Exelente vídeo profesor aunque no se inglés le entendí perfectamente muchas gracias
I appreciate you.
I have a question! At14:01 when you are turning the crank shaft 1¾ turns you said "I'm going slow, if i feel anything hit in stopping" what does that mean? I am currently at this step and i feel it stopping on me and i can't move the crankshaft anymore, how do i proceed??
What I mean by feeling something stopping, is the possibility that the pistons are touching the valves. If that’s happening, stop right away and put everything back to zero. Make sure that all of the tools are in place to keep the entire engine at top dead center.
Remind everyone to do with plugs out, people will confuse compression with hitting a valve
What is the length of the exhaust and intake valves of a 2005 Ford Escape?
If the crankshaft gear moves freely how does it spun the crankshaft and how do you hold the crankshaft in sink with the cams?
The balancer bolt is torqued down to 75 foot pounds +90°. That’s enough force on the friction washer between the balancer and the chain sprocket to keep them fixed in place.
If I need to remove the camshafts for a tappet based valve adjustment, will I be able to free the teeth from the chain by tipping up the opposite end of the first camshaft?
Of course I will bungee up the chain so it stays on the crankshaft down below. 2.5 2011 Escape.
Did anyone answer your question?
I have the same issue
@@Cynyc-pq2pc Not yet. Awhile back I thought I saw a video of someone doing it on the 2.5, but I can't find it now.
That’s tough to say, I imagine that the bottom of the sprocket might hit the cylinder head. You’d also potentially hit the timing cover with the chain/sprocket.
Wondering if you need to change camshaft sprocket bolts everytime when do timing?thanks again
No, they are reusable.
Thanks for the info,my intake camshaft sprocket keep sleeping and I don't want to brake the bolt by tight anymore ,any idea?thanks
So here’s the deal. I removed cams before cranking over the crankshaft to TDC, and now the timing chain is bound up. How do I set the cylinders TDC and the cams in the proper orientation as to not detonate the motor moving forward?
I am guessing remove harmonic balancer to get the timing cover off, get the head off to replace the gasket like I needed to do anyway, and orientate the piston heads correctly, then how are the cams set?
Right, you have to remove the balancer and the timing cover. You’ll need to buy the tool kit to set the engine top and bottom to TDC.
Once you have the head installed, then install the cams at TDC and use the timing tool to keep them there.
@@ToolDemos do you happen to have a link for the tool kit?
what did you do to hold the engine up after removing the passenger side mount?
I put a block of wood on a jack stand under the engine. They sell a bar you put on top of the fender wells where you can hang the engine also.
Is there a diamond washer behind the oil pump sprocket?
Should we replace that one as well?
Not behind the oil pump sprocket, but there is a second one on the crankshaft. To access that one, the oil pump needs to be removed.
No diamond on oil because shaft is a d shape. It won't slip. You should be able to just remove sprocket and leave pump in
Tq brother,you are real pomen..mantap..👍
Thanks, cheers!
What a clear and detailed walk-thru...I watched this out of interest, not because I am doing the job, and the point that really came through was what a PITA this is in comparison to a keywayed crankshaft vehicle; doing my timing belt on a MK3 Escort was so simple in comparison to this!...couple of questions:
1. I assume the procedure/tools are the same on MK2 Focus engines that have a Timing Belt rather than a chain, as these don't have a keywayed shaft either?
2. A friend has a MK2 Focus late 2007 1.8 petrol, am I right in believing that it has a chain rather than a belt?
Thanks for your help.
The earlier models had a Ford Zetec engine with a timing belt. Later models used a Duratec (Mazda) engine like the one in the video and almost certainly in your friend’s 2007. To answer your first question, in my limited experience, the earlier Ford Zetec engine did have a keyway on the crankshaft.
@@ToolDemos Thank you, as I thought....the car has a Zetec badge BUT Ford started to use this as a 'style' designation ie. like base model, LX, zetec etc WITHOUT being a Zetec engine, instead using a Duratec engine; how to confuse your customer base eh?! :-)))
@@teddyb4957 no kidding
So pretty much it don’t matter the timing as long as the camshafts don’t move your good
Right, as long as the cams/crank are stationary, the chain can be installed anywhere
@@ToolDemos good to know! My 2018 ford focus is getting high in mileage idk if I’m lucky or not that my timing chain ain’t bad yet
Theres no gasket on the Timing Chain Cover? you put RTV silicone only? thanks for the video.
Yes. RTV only.
Is that bottom dowl bolt something that can be purchased at an auto parts store?
Question if the crank pulley was removed and the engine was turned by the flywheel by hand would the valves or piston be hurt thanks in advance
It’s listed as a non-interference engine. You should be okay. Also, you would’ve felt it stop if your piston hit a valve.
Thanks for your response I pray it’s ok
How do you align the BALANCE SHAFT? Everyone says crankshaft should be TDC, and the marks on the BALANCE SHAFT should be perpendicular... question is should they be pointing to the ground or to the engine?
This car doesn’t have a balance shaft. What’s your year/make/model?
@@ToolDemos I have a Mazda CX7 AWD 2.3L Turbo and it's a 2010.
@@pingpong9656 okay, gotcha. That engine is a bit different. Here’s the shop manual for it: charm.li/Mazda%20Truck/2010/CX-7%20AWD%20L4-2.3L%20Turbo/Repair%20and%20Diagnosis/Engine%2C%20Cooling%20and%20Exhaust/Engine/Timing%20Components/Timing%20Chain/Service%20and%20Repair/
@@ToolDemos What a fantastic link! Wow - thank you. Will check it asap.
Thanks for nice video, just one quick question?work on ford escape 2.3 engine year 2006 did it with patience everything, jump intake camshaft sprocket twice, I tight perfect 65 ft-lbs and little over .
Make sure you install the timing chain and pull the pin on the tensioner before you torque down the camshaft sprockets.
I'm now into my 2009 2.3L Ford Ranger. It doesn't look bad. At least on the top. There's not a lot of slop between the cam sprockets. And I have noticed that the teeth on the cam sprockets have wear marks that alternate on every other tooth. One tooth makes contact with the chain in the center of the tooth and the next tooth makes contact with the chain on the outside edges and not in the middle. Do I really need to do this? The vehicle has 137K mi on it and has always had good oil.
My rule for timing chains: if it is loose and making noise, replace. If I have an engine code for timing, replace. If not, leave it be.
@@ToolDemos thanks
What is the part number on that harmonic balancer hold tool?
Is there anything else i should replace on my 2004 ford ranger 2.3 as well? Maybe oil pump? Crank shaft position sensor?
As far as I know, this engine doesn’t have oiling issues. The CKP should be replaced (according to Ford) due to it needing a positioning tool when you install it. Buy it from Ford, they don’t cost much.
@@ToolDemos do you think I should go deeper and replace head gasket even though there's no sign of it being bad. I don't want to take it apart again. I found a video on TH-cam of a guy who made it to 500,000 miles until his timing chain broke. So idk. I'm not a real mechanic, I need to buy a torque wrench.
@@xlargetophat I would never advise someone to replace a head gasket unless it were leaking. Not only is it more work but it opens up another can of worms.
@@ToolDemos ok good. I'm not that organized and I doubt I could do it. I do know of a shop that could probably do the grinding on the heads . I think I need to eventually do the timing chain because I found a piece of plastic when I removed the valve cover and replaced the gasket this summer. Small black piece, and now I'm thinking it was a piece of the timing guard rail.
Can I just pull out pulley replace one without alignment? Another things it is necessary to hold camshaft If I put pin ?
Yes, you need to hold the cams, they’ll roll if you loosen the bolt.
I have a question I have both the crankshaft and the camshafts perfectly in time but the harmonic balancer 8 millimeter bolt for aligning it is tight when the engine is at top dead center. For example I can thread it in 2 full turns before it gets tight, is that okay or should I redo it?
If you can get that little bolt threaded in and turn it two times, I would call that close enough. I actually can’t understand why it wouldn’t thread all the way in if it goes in two turns. Remember that the most important job of that balancer being in time is to give the crank sensor the correct position reading.
@@ToolDemosupdate: I successfully retimed my first ever engine after screwing it up on accident and I started it today and it ran like a dream. Thank you so much if it wasn’t for your video I don’t think I could have done it because I am by no means a real mechanic!
@@soupdog9468 Yes! That is so awesome, congratulations!
Here’s a link to the Focus service manual on eManual online: shrsl.com/47dpj
22% OFF Sitewide
Code: TOOLSDEMO22
Expiry: Dec 31st 2023
Also if there is no damage to the washer just clean it and it can be reused, and there has to be a washer on both sides of the crank sprocket.
Got a 2012 Transit Connect 2.0, have to replace timing cover I know I have to replace the crank bolt. But do I have to replace the diamond washer?
Yeah, they are one-time use.
Is it possible, I had a shop do this service. Is it possible it could fail a year later or would it be more immediate?
That depends on the type of failure. What happened?
Thanks alot. Very informative.
Glad it helped.
how/when are the cam sprockets installed/torqued?
Lock the top and bottom of the engine at top dead center. Install the cam sprockets with new washers, but leave them loose. Hang the chain around the cams and crankshaft. Open the chain tensioner. Now torque down your camshaft sprockets. Edit: Hold the camshaft with a wrench when you torque the cam sprocket bolt, the lock tool is not made to do that job.
Im working on a 2018 ford focus se 2.0 durahtech and i seen you put the crankshaft pulley on aligned with the TDC but when you put the CKP sensor you didnt align the marking of that comes on one of tooth with the ckp sensor you just put the sensor on with the alignment tool. Im stuck in this spot and can't figure out what to do because its telling me to align the pulley with the tdc hole like you did then it says the marking on the should align with the ckp sensor and that should be TDC too so how are their 2 TDC, im not sure what to do
That second mark they’re talking about must be a new feature on those newer engines. There were no marks to line up for me, just had to use the tool. If you don’t see another way forward, you might just do it with the alignment tool. If it starts and doesn’t generate any timing codes, you win.
so my cam shaft slots sit below the head surface, how do you get the tool in there?
Turn the engine 1 rotation
Edit: 1 crank rotation, so 180° on the cams
What was the small chain for and is it timed? Is it the counter-balance shaft?
This engine doesn’t have a balance shaft. It’s the oil pump, no timing necessary.
Does the oil pump not have to be lined up with the crank shaft?
Correct. There is no need to time the oil pump, so it can be in any position when you torque the balancer bolt.
Question what if you can get the special for the camshaft and pin could anything similar work like a metal ruler and I small Allen wrench work
No, the pin for the crankshaft is precisely the right length, it stops the crank exactly where it needs to stay.
Hi! The crankshaft gear for these engines with part number 1S7Z6306CF has notches on its mating planes (ends). Are diamond-coated washers necessary when installing such a gear?
That’s a good question, I looked at that part and you could be right. I suggest looking at Ford service information directly.
@@ToolDemos I spent a lot of time trying to find accurate information, but I didn’t find anything other than the private opinion of garage mechanics in the Russian-speaking part of the Internet. Official information from Ford could not be found. Perhaps I was unable to formulate an exact English-language Google query.
@@VasiliyLomovoy Ford offers their entire library of dealership-level repair information to anybody: www.motorcraftservice.com/ the catch: it’ll cost ya about $20
i lost that bolt you removed out of block and insert in the pin. what is the name of that bolt?
Sorry, Buhle I couldn’t find that part in the catalog. The threads on it are M10-1.5 if you want to try to find a generic replacement.
Wow. nice work
This makes My Duratec 3.0 v6 look like a joke to time.
Thanks Miles.
With the timing chain off how can you still get the crank shaft at tdc
You need to use a timing tool kit: amzn.to/3Qy6m8M then you can watch me use it at the 12 minute mark in this video here: th-cam.com/video/v-Tmt9wlIY4/w-d-xo.html
Wow nice video my friend 👍
I appreciate that Miguel. Have a great day today.
What would be the break in period for the timing chain before you start to beat on the car
Hi Jose, if all you were doing is the timing chains, tensioner, and guides there is no break in period. As long as everything was installed correctly, just go for it.
@@ToolDemos okay thank you. I put about 100 miles on it already without revving past 5k. But should be good to go then.
Thanks for sharing
Hi, i have to replace the head gasket on my 2016 mustang ecoboost with the 2.3l i4 turbo, does this procedure also work for the timing of this car ??
There are definitely similarities between the two engines as they are from the same engine family. There are also major differences, including variable valve timing that you need to account for. I would recommend buying a 72 hour subscription to Ford’s online service manual. You can print out the entire procedure and keep it on file.
Does the balance shaft need to be time, I can see any timing for it
Yes Sergio, balance shafts are timed to the engine. But, this engine doesn’t have a balance shaft. The sprocket you see below the crankshaft just turns the oil pump.
Is is a crush to friction diamond washer?
The washer is just a solid steel, not designed to crush. They coat it with diamond dust to add friction.
Ok so i did all steps but when i turn The harmonic balancer and it hits The pin The 6ml screw hole doesnt line up perfectlt is that Ok?
I Just need to make sure Just did a Full headgasket job and dont want to ruin The engine
Make 100% sure you’re using the correct pin. They have two different lengths. Also, make sure to screw it in all the way. Once you make sure of those two things, get the crankshaft to stop on that pin - and then if you need to adjust the balancer, go ahead and loosen it up and adjust it to match that bolt hole.
@@ToolDemos Ok thank you Just got it all back together good and Now im not getting power to my fuel injectors but im getting fuel pressure to my rail did i MIss something?
@@ToolDemos and yes i was using The short pin out of The 2 provided
@@ialreadyknow31 check the crank sensor, make sure it’s installed correctly
Hello do you know . does the chain move freely between the two teeth on the shafts, the stroke is about 1 cm. and when the engine is warm, I have a noise, I thought it was a hydraulic lifter, but the noise comes from the chain car is fiesta st 150
No, it should not move like that.
So the last time a rebuilt a motor it was a Chevy 305 from a 78 caprice. Fast forward to today and a project car, 2009 escape fell into my hands. I ordered a Hanes or Chilton's and none of this is in there. My question is do you get service bulletin from Ford website? I didn't see this there. Basically I am having trouble finding information. My SUV isn't worth the man hours but the fun and education is. Thanks
Here’s my complete answer, about 7 minutes: th-cam.com/video/N7QS07r5TT0/w-d-xo.html
the short answer is: www.motorcraftservice.com/
@@ToolDemos I had no idea... 👍
Hola que tal saludos, buen video más ckaro imposible. De casualidad tienes un video cambiando las gomas de las válvulas sin bajar la cámara?
No, not yet.
Had to replace it in a year and a half again the starter . have you worked on starter on 2016 Ford Focus SE 2.0L duratech engine ? Had oil on pinion gear . Trying to find actual oil leak . This mechainc said it's definitely from real seal . Also have valve cover oil leak which might be causing this . In your opinion , can top leak get into starter gear ? Or is it pretty tightly sealed against from the outside ? These other two mechanics said it' could be from top valve cover leak .
Hi Frank, oil leaks can definitely damage a starter. To know for sure if the rear main seal is leaking you want to have a look at the engine side of the flex plate. To do this you’ll need to get under the car and find the cover plate on the bottom of the bell housing. Remove that and have a look at the flex plate, if it looks like streaks of oil are being flung out to the outside teeth of the flex plate - you have a rear main seal leak. Also have a look at the top of the engine just below the valve cover if the valve cover gasket is leaking you’ll see evidence of that on the side of the cylinder head.
@@ToolDemos yes definitely see top valve cover leaking . As to what caused oil getting into starter pinion gear not sure if from that or rear main seal . Will see about removing flex plate and taking a look . Last mechanic I talked to said could be from top valve cover leak and it's always best to start from top leaks on down . Gotta fix that anyway . So , i guess fix valve cove then see if that fixes it . ?
@@frankmontez6853 Yes exactly. Your mechanic has good advice for you, especially because fixing the valve cover issue is much easier than replacing a rear main seal. I would recommend cleaning the starter thoroughly after you fix the oil leak up top that way you can quickly spot any new leaks.
Hello I am unsure and have lots of questions . I thought I did all the right steps . Cranks but no start . What am I missing
Make sure the crankshaft position sensor is installed correctly
@@ToolDemos ok I counted 20 teeth like the procedure said from the gap and tightened the new crankshaft position sensor . Still cranks and no start . Also changed the camshaft position sensor .
@@kainalani808 my next step is scan for codes, try to see what is missing
@@ToolDemos yeah I have and the only two that pop is P0135 for heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1 and p0141 heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2
I have torn it apart 6 times to try and see if I was missing a step , followed all the procedures , I originally took the head off to replace the valve stem oil seals . And the stems kept falling down but the head gasket was leaking so I have done it multiple times is there a firing order for a 2004 Mazda B2300 2.3 lit . I am stuck on troubleshooting . I have also replaced the fuel filter etc and the fuel pump relay . The inirtia switch has been bypassed . It ran before all the work and now it’s been sitting in my driveway for 3 months trying to find a solution . Oh and thank you so much for replying and helping me out
Good stuff Steve 👍👍👍
Thanks Theo, I appreciate that.
What does this typically cost to have done by a shop or by the dealer?
Labor guide says 5.3 hours labor. So, multiply that times their rate (usually $150-$300 per hour)
Parts cost is a few hundred dollars.
I need to drop the oil pan on this engine - please tell me I don't have to take off the timing cover.
I would tell you that, but I’d be lying. Sorry for the bad news.
YES oil pan can come off on its own, it shares a few bolts with timing cover only
@@pablopicaro7649Only if you slide the transmission away from the engine slightly. Otherwise there's no clearance to get the oil pan in place.
@@pablopicaro7649 I did get it off like that, but I can't RTV it and put it back on without removing timing cover or moving transmission...
Great video, ACCEPT,
On the last check you did but you had to make a small adjustment on one of the cams to get the slot more horizontal on the end of the camshaft, you made some kind of adjustment to turn the camshaft, but the whatever you did was not in the view finder of the camera. I have no idea what adjustment you made to turn the camshaft?
I am in the process of trying to Tom the engine I think this is an important part, my engine keeps feeling like it’s wanting to lock up. How do you adjust the camshaft?
Also is there any camshaft position sensors on the Ford 2.3 four-cylinder engine?
Thank you
Hello IC, the only thing I did to adjust that camshaft was put a 23 mm wrench on the flats of it to turn it a tiny bit. My assumption was that because the chain I installed was a used one it was a little bit longer than new.
I would be very careful right now if it felt like the engine was “locking up“. This is an interference engine and if your timing is off, your pistons can hit the valves.
I would go back and make sure that the locking pin for the crankshaft was the correct one. The kit comes with a smaller pin and a longer pin and instructions on which one to use for your application. Turn the crankshaft clockwise until it hits that pin and stops. Then set up your cam shafts so that they lineup with the locking bar. Also remember that the intake camshaft is the one that has the timing ‘arm’ at the very back of it. That is the little protrusion that your cam sensor picks up. That answers your second question, the cam sensor is located on the intake side of the valve cover near the back of the engine.
4:11 the intake cam is rotated 180 deg from where it was earlier !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I looked at the footage, it’s always at TDC.
Genial tu vídeo muy instructivo 💪👍👍👍👍
Gracias!
Can this tutorial be applied to the 1.8l engine aswell?
No, the 1.8 is different.
@@ToolDemos oh, I thought the 2 liter version was just the 1.8l one with a bigger bore.
@@dariusdarabant6232 the 2.0 and 2.3 are the twins.
@@dariusdarabant62321.6 and 1.8 are timing belt 2.0 and 2.3 are chains
you are realy pomen brotherrrr 🎉
thank you so much 👍🏻
I appreciate you! 👊🏼
"Click"! love it.
Is this the same for an 06 zx5 hatchback
Same engine.
I was putting torque on the camshaft bearings and I broke the exhaust camshaft against the special tool (that I made sure to buy through your link by the way). Anyways, I see that my exhaust camshaft was definitely not in the same position as yours and thats why it broke on 12ft lbs of torque. Before teardown I set number 1 on tdc compression. Or did I? New exhaust camshaft arrives in 6 days and i'll try again. What would you do in my situation? the tool fit in both shafts but there was a major gap on intake side compared to how yours looked when you set the tool in there. Any advice? Thanks dude your videos are put together real well.
If you have Instagram, DM me.
When you recheck timing at the cams and the tool don't slide in then your camshaft ar-180 out. Cam lobes on both cams will be pointing up with intake and exhaust valves are closed tool will not fit if cams are 180 out
Good tip
Great job
Thanks Brent.
Interesting Steve 👍
Thanks Gilman. Cheers!
Great video. VERY informative. I have an '06 Focus 2.0 runaround and I'm trying to diagnose a possible timing chain tensioner or guide failure. I'm a novice mechanic and wanted to know, in your opinion, before I dive deeper, with the valve cover off and applying pressure on the timing chain with my thumb between the cam sprockets, the cam closest to the radiator will rotate with the amount of force I`m applying, it then it will settle back when I take my thumb off....is that a logical test? Should there really be no movement of the chain or cam with good a tensioner and/or guides when that pressure is applied?
If the intake cam rotates counterclockwise as you push on the chain and then springs back, I would suspect a worn out chain. The problem is not likely to be the timing chain tensioner because it’s on the exhaust side of the engine.
Before you pull the timing cover - check to make sure that the crankshaft is not rotating when the cam rotates. If the crankshaft stays put, then all of your play is between the intake cam and the crankshaft. In that case you’ll need a new timing set. I would recommend replacing the chain, the guides, and the tensioner all at one time.
@@ToolDemos Thank you for expertise and the logic behind it.
@@shagette you’re welcome.
Is $525 a fair price for replacement of pcv valve, rear crankshaft seal ? I think it's a bit much because he'll charge more for valve cover ..2016 Focus SE 2.0L duratech engine
The PCV valve is cheap and easy to replace, but the crankshaft rear seal is not. The transmission has to come out to do that one. Assuming you live in an American city, I’d say you are getting a good price.
@@ToolDemos it's a 2016 Focus SE 2.0L duratech engine. I don't think my timing chain cover is leaking oil but if it was that means the engine crankshaft seal is bad too right?
@@frankmontez6853 Your Engine has two crankshaft seals, one in the front of the engine and one at the rear. The rear crankshaft seal is more commonly known as the rear main seal and that is the one where the transmission has to come out. The front crankshaft seal is in the timing cover and is sealed to the harmonic balancer.
If your timing cover is leaking the whole cover has to be removed and re-sealed. If your front crankshaft seal is leaking that can be replaced without removing the timing cover.
Awesome video!!! Thank you so much for taking the time to do this!! I'm chasing a misfire on cylinder 1 on a 2009 Escape with the 2.5L and 178K miles. I found a pool of oil in the number 1 spark plug well. Thought for sure I had the problem in the bag. Since the engine had 178K miles on it AND the plugs and coils looked original, with FoMoCo identity, I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace them. I bought OEM SP-530 plugs and OEM DG-522 coils. Also replaced the valve cover gasket with Fel-Pro. The oil leak is gone the the misfire still exists. Compression is good on all cylinders. I suppose a leak down test wouldn't hurt. Do you have any suggestions where to go next? Again, thank you!!!!!
Hi Dale, I appreciate the compliment. I would still be suspicious of the number one ignition coil. First, pull the coil out of the well, then plug it back in to the electrical connector. Get a test light and hook it to the ground post of the battery, now start your engine. Put the tip of the test light inside the coil boot to see if it is firing (you’ll see a spark jumping to the test light.) If not, I’d suspect a wiring problem to that coil.
If the coil checks out OK, reinstall it. Now start your engine again, this time check to see if the fuel injector is firing. To test it, take a long screwdriver and just touch the side of the fuel injector and put your ear up to the handle of the screwdriver. I know it sounds weird but the sound will travel through it and you’ll hear a clicking noise if it’s working. You can compare it to the other ones to see what they should sound like.
Hope this helps.
I make a mistake on the diamond washer part 😂 slip and I had to redo it! Why cause I didn't Tark it down properly
Helpful
The "click click" part caught me off guard😂
Thanks for the tutorial. Quick question : how do you know that you're at TDC on the compression stroke and not on the exhaust stroke (overlap) ?
The cam grooves are slightly offset from center. You can’t get it wrong.
Yeah, I had the same question. "the cam groves are slightly off set from center." you said. What does that mean?
@@shadetreemech290 that mean that the jig can go inside the grooves and be on the same time flat on head only in one direction-compression stroke
Ypu can look at the lobes to see if their up both cams so you know all 4 valves are closed. They'll be up and inboard at about a 45
Here's a question that most people don't know to ask do you do it top dead center on the compression stroke or the exhaust stroke I'm a mechanic so I know the answer to this one I just wondering why nobody comments on this
I guess it’s usually implied, but the tool won’t work on exhaust, so that’s a good thing.
Thanks
Glad it helped.
You did it wrong. Keep the nut on the sprockets loose enough so they can spin, put the cams in position with the timing tool, now install your tensioner and guides, now put the chain on, and then release the tensioner. With the sprockets lose they can move and the chain will be tight. Now you can torq the sprockets to their spec. Never try to move the cams with the cam tool in place.
all over timing yet not a peep about crank sensor placement or toothcount to settting, ????????????????
16:35 will explain and take you to the rest of the job.
Hello sir, I’m a mechanic and I’m very interested with your video
Is it ok? if I recap your video ,explaination with Thai language and Thai subtitle in my channel to be knowledge for Thai people who’s interested with the content like this.
If you use clips or small portions of the video integrated into your video, that’s OK.
I run into this BS with a 4.0 in an 07 ford ranger. I done it as they say to and it lasted about 2 month and a cam bolt slipped. Pure BS. Everything should be keyed.
That sucks! I agree, they should be keyed.