In going through this process, my first advice is don't go straight at it with a strip disc. Get your hands on an air scraper. I used the scraper to take the largest chunks of the undercoating off. Once those were off I then would hit it with the strip disc. This extra step saves so much time.
It's been a while since I screwed around with undercoating, but my recollection is that like paint, undercoating lasts longer if the resulting coating is thicker. The undercoating you are saying is good enough to leave on, is very thick. That thickness is partially why it lasted. The thickness of the undercoating you are ending with looks to be less than 1/16 inch thick. The thicker the coating, the more it dampens vibrations and road noise, and can endure abrasions (rocks hitting the bottom of the car, etc.)...
Quote of the episode "I don't know why I'm using an angle grinder when I have a sandblaster"! I wish you had taken that approach with the whole underside......
Agreed. May have been good to hang that painters plastic from the ceiling & go to town sandblasting. I would think it would have been much easier & he could have used that rust jelly to remove or restore some harder to reach parts. Good job tho with what he used.
When I recently stripped the bottom of my car I used a firm putty knife and razorblades in a holder to scrape off the undercoating. Then I degreased it. Then I followed up with an electric palm sander with 60-80 grit. Took a long time but I don't have a big enough compressor to run air tools. Then I used a Dremel with the tapered cone sanding rolls. 80-100 grit. Pretty expensive but they get into the nooks and crannys. I love those things. Great video. Looks good!
@2:00 this actually happened to me. 1st gen Celica and the front strut housing broke, the front wheel slammed up into the fender well and thru me into oncoming traffic and spun me around. Ends up that water can collect at the bottom of the strut and some have said oil is supposed to be there (maybe to protect from rust). It's very, very dangerous. It was during peak traffic, but because of the traffic light, I didn't hit anyone and no one hit me. Used a floor jack and got the car off the road. People that drive older cars need to check all these things.
I think the way to go on this would either be a sand blaster or use a pressure washer to clean and then spot treat the areas where the undercoating has come off or rusted
For the repairs that you did to the floorboard, why did you decide not to sand down the welds to smooth them out before spraying the undercoating ? Enjoying the videos ! Thanks.
Thanks for the video! I started it on my own and holy f the angle grinding takes longer than you expect. It’s like every time I look I find more spots I missed. I just have the fenders and hard to reach spots and then I should be close to finishing 🤣
Your content is some of the best I have seen in the auto restoration arena. Great job. I get nervous before I start any big project without knowing a good deal about what to expect. very very helpful! Question is this: in your planning phase, did you consider a paint coating of some noise/heat control material? I'm working on a 1963 Chevy Corvair, and I wondering if I should look at using something like that over the rust por-13 coats or whatever. what do you think? Corvairs are loud, stinky, and the air cooled rear engine gets pretty hot...
Spray can undercoating is really thin, i changed to the underbody gun with the screw in cans and used about a gallon on an e30. Can recommend dinitrol 447
Man you are brave. I know how long it is to get to that bare metal. I've stripped an old workshop servant with the exact same tools as you. The purple strip disc on that angle grinder is definitely a life savor but it still took a very long time ! Keep it up, i'm hyped to see the final result !
on that hanger the weld could have also been done by drilling a hole in the bottom of the plate that meets the body, then filling it with a plug weld. not sure if you put a weld on the other side of the bracket, but the weight of the muffler is on on the very edge of the piece now.
You are lucky no major rust. My restoration was not that easy. I’d recommend por-15. Won’t chip off like primer and a thin layer of undercoat. We all need to pass info along to keep these cars alive.
I've heard such mixed reviews on por-15 that truthfully I'll just never use it. Any paint shop I've been to has told me its fine for some parts here and there, but should never been used on the body of the car
Loving it mate, spot on. Well done and I'm happy you liked the poly discs. I'll be starting a channel soon too. Just wish I had a garage to work in aswell
Haha no way man! Day I picked up my Z I had a nice lil run in with a black widow. What about using a media blaster?? Damn you make me wanna work on my Z
Love to follow your project here. Myself I got no experience whatsoever on car restoration. To me it would be really interesting to hear you go over the big steps that you plan to go through before the car is ”done”. Like the big gameplan just to get an overview of the project. Best of luck from Sweden.
I forgot to talk about this in the video! I didn't use the new undercoating on top of the old undercoating. The old undercoating that I left on was scuffed up and cleaned really well, and then a fresh coat of black paint was applied to help it last longer :)
Fun fact: Datsun/Nissan didn't undercoat the cars in 70's for the purpose of rust prevention. They did it for sound-proofing. Best to leave it on there in the areas where it's still good (as you are doing) and only remove the stuff where rusty repairs may be needed.
Just got into this project so I'm catching up. Couldn't help but notice the rusted corners of the rear wheel arch when you were stripping the undercoat. Are you fixing that later? Felt somewhat backwards to me to go through all the good work of cleaning it up and putting on a new undercoat only to later be removing parts of it to repair bodywork.
Hey I have been going down a rabbit hole lateley on the Lexus is300 and have been looking around for a clean rendering of one, I looked through your website and couldn't seem to find one. I was wondering if you ever did one or were interested in doing one maybe. (Ps: awesome progress on the datsun)
hi brad, i have been following your work on Instagram and it inspired me, I'm doing 3d car renderings too. I was wondering if you were in need for a video editor for this channel, I'm definitely not a pro, but I will learn fast:) btw, I'm looking just for experience at the moment .
Love the videos! I have a big project I’ve been dreaming of doing but don’t know what to do aesthetically for it, so I was curious if you could do some kind of render for it? Thanks, and keep up the incredible videos!
Instead of the cardboard on the floor, wet your floors when you paint. That will prevent paint from sticking and also prevent dust from getting in the air as you walk around. This is more important when you paint the body of course.
I've seen that done a few times and it looks to work great. My only issue is that I live in a residential neighborhood and my HOA would fine my butt 100 times if they found paint debris on the street from me washing it down the driveway 🤣🤣
If they’re not being driven on streets, then no they do require insurance. But having insurance is always a good idea in case anything happens. I have insurance on this car, even though it’s in parts and it’s very cheap.
Nobody knows just how good REFORMER is. Just don't think of it as a Primer you must think of it as a rust converter. But it is a kick ass Batman Black when it dries thicker than it sprays. I use REFORMER on both my S30 restomods. As for under coat for 100$ T-Rex on eBay Gallon urethane bedliner quart of Hardner and spray gun! It's bedliner not undercoat. Under coat is not the way to go. Bedliner is RUGGED and water and abrasive resistant. Never dulls into gray, stash black you can hit with a hose and it looks new. A cup wire wheel on a 4.5 hand grinder is awesome. Those strip discs are not cheap. Anything 2 component product with Hardness is super rugged long lasting. Good job.
Seriously. It's like magic paint. I've never heard of TRex, but I'll have to give it a look for next time! Yeah, normally the strip discs are really expensive, but I found a seller on amazon who sells a pack of 5 for $20. Link is in the description!
This is probably a horrible time to tell you this but you should've used some seam sealer on ever part of where panels overlay ontop of eachother so they dont get water in the creases and rust
Is this applied from the inside of the car on the other side of the seams? Or on the undercarriage itself? I’m trying to identify where my car’s seams are.
You do this from the bottom before you do the under coating, you can do this after primer and sanding. If you are doing this to your car and havent done the grinding process you can see the old seam sealer from factory. you have seam sealer in the engine bay, in the car under all the carpet and trim. it is also on the undercarage. make sure you spread it with your finger or brush
I remember doing this on my Z from under the car and I was absolutely FILTHY. I also used Eastwood undercoat and wasn’t happy with the end result, some of it never fully dried
Definitely! I had my garage door open a few inches, and the side door open with a fan blowing out to create a nice cross breeze. Having the garage door open all the way would be too windy for me to paint though. Also I had a 3M Multi Gas/Vapor Cartridge on my gas mask the entire time 👍
So in the end, the one thing I learned in this video: Just take it to a sandblasting facility to save time, not money. Use that time to make money for this one part ;(
I would've just gotten the body sandblasted, you got some steel balls to bring it down to bare metal. Also last time I check you can get your entire car galvanized and the cost isn't to bad since the process has been around for a while. Then I would stitch weld the chassis, prime the body, coat the body and then prime and then paint.
Next time buy a spraygun and paint it with proper paint or upol raptor. Painting with spraycans are pain in the arse or finger. I'm going to paint/coat my car's floor with upol tintable raptor. And ofcourse will prime it first with some epoxy and then seal the seams with seamsealer.
“I’m sure this would bore you”
Me who would watch every last second of the time lapse: 👁👄👁
In going through this process, my first advice is don't go straight at it with a strip disc. Get your hands on an air scraper. I used the scraper to take the largest chunks of the undercoating off. Once those were off I then would hit it with the strip disc. This extra step saves so much time.
Nice tip, thanks
It's been a while since I screwed around with undercoating, but my recollection is that like paint, undercoating lasts longer if the resulting coating is thicker. The undercoating you are saying is good enough to leave on, is very thick. That thickness is partially why it lasted. The thickness of the undercoating you are ending with looks to be less than 1/16 inch thick. The thicker the coating, the more it dampens vibrations and road noise, and can endure abrasions (rocks hitting the bottom of the car, etc.)...
Quote of the episode "I don't know why I'm using an angle grinder when I have a sandblaster"! I wish you had taken that approach with the whole underside......
Agreed. May have been good to hang that painters plastic from the ceiling & go to town sandblasting. I would think it would have been much easier & he could have used that rust jelly to remove or restore some harder to reach parts. Good job tho with what he used.
never seen anyone do undercoating and clearing rust from bottom of the car but u did great job. Before and After shot looks good. Keep it up!!!
I ain't never seen a hard work like that
Keep up 👆
Trust The Process 👑
When I recently stripped the bottom of my car I used a firm putty knife and razorblades in a holder to scrape off the undercoating. Then I degreased it. Then I followed up with an electric palm sander with 60-80 grit. Took a long time but I don't have a big enough compressor to run air tools. Then I used a Dremel with the tapered cone sanding rolls. 80-100 grit. Pretty expensive but they get into the nooks and crannys. I love those things. Great video. Looks good!
Love this! Looks great, makes me want to get my restoration finished 🤣
Editing is looking more and more solid as the playlist goes on. Great work, thank you.
Thanks! When I started this channel I had absolutely ZERO knowledge of video editing 🤣
You're living my dream, I'm excited to see the progress!
Me: No way he can restore this
Brad: Hold my 🔧
@2:00 this actually happened to me. 1st gen Celica and the front strut housing broke, the front wheel slammed up into the fender well and thru me into oncoming traffic and spun me around. Ends up that water can collect at the bottom of the strut and some have said oil is supposed to be there (maybe to protect from rust). It's very, very dangerous. It was during peak traffic, but because of the traffic light, I didn't hit anyone and no one hit me. Used a floor jack and got the car off the road. People that drive older cars need to check all these things.
Hey, brad, are you the guy that got a surplus of z parts from a rat infested warehouse? If so, I could use some help on my 73' resto. Thx
This is really next level work. I just got a jeep so I’m learning how to treat and keep rust off that sucker. Thanks for the video.
Before putting that spray on, you must treat and clean all rust, so there's non left.. otherwise it will continue to eat underneath the coating
I think the way to go on this would either be a sand blaster or use a pressure washer to clean and then spot treat the areas where the undercoating has come off or rusted
Thanks and Well Done. You gave us the bottom line - that's why we watched. Much appreciated.
For the repairs that you did to the floorboard, why did you decide not to sand down the welds to smooth them out before spraying the undercoating ? Enjoying the videos ! Thanks.
I was skeptical of your work but it came out very nice!!!
My 260 had the same cracks , a lot of torque on that area from the rear axle !
I gotta say this before and after was insane to see. Keep it up
Thanks for the video! I started it on my own and holy f the angle grinding takes longer than you expect. It’s like every time I look I find more spots I missed.
I just have the fenders and hard to reach spots and then I should be close to finishing 🤣
Looking good, very satisfying, especially when you can access the bottom like a "canvas" as it were.
I think you did a good job welding in the new patches but I wish you would have smoothed the welds out more
Acid dip, you won't regret it. Its spendy but time and quality is unmatched.
Your content is some of the best I have seen in the auto restoration arena. Great job. I get nervous before I start any big project without knowing a good deal about what to expect. very very helpful!
Question is this: in your planning phase, did you consider a paint coating of some noise/heat control material? I'm working on a 1963 Chevy Corvair, and I wondering if I should look at using something like that over the rust por-13 coats or whatever. what do you think? Corvairs are loud, stinky, and the air cooled rear engine gets pretty hot...
Spray can undercoating is really thin, i changed to the underbody gun with the screw in cans and used about a gallon on an e30. Can recommend dinitrol 447
Man you are brave.
I know how long it is to get to that bare metal. I've stripped an old workshop servant with the exact same tools as you. The purple strip disc on that angle grinder is definitely a life savor but it still took a very long time !
Keep it up, i'm hyped to see the final result !
Great job on the underneath of the car. but one small thing the weld lines not finished off (not ground down smooth) is really messing with my ocd.
so crazy, i was like i'm gonna catch up on brad builds and you posted a new video while I was doing it. perfect timing.
I need a garage and tools..need to start restauring old stuff too starting with my 08 civic si boosted coupe lol
Those exhaust brackets are usually just spot welded on the holes that were underneath it so they can be easily changed out or removed
on that hanger the weld could have also been done by drilling a hole in the bottom of the plate that meets the body, then filling it with a plug weld.
not sure if you put a weld on the other side of the bracket, but the weight of the muffler is on on the very edge of the piece now.
This is so satisfying!! Hoping you do a similar video with sound deadening on the other side.
You are lucky no major rust. My restoration was not that easy. I’d recommend por-15. Won’t chip off like primer and a thin layer of undercoat. We all need to pass info along to keep these cars alive.
I've heard such mixed reviews on por-15 that truthfully I'll just never use it. Any paint shop I've been to has told me its fine for some parts here and there, but should never been used on the body of the car
Looks very smart! Good job! Must have been very satisfying. Inspires me to try to do more to my old mini.
Dude this vid rocks, helped a bunch!
Loving it mate, spot on. Well done and I'm happy you liked the poly discs. I'll be starting a channel soon too. Just wish I had a garage to work in aswell
Haha no way man! Day I picked up my Z I had a nice lil run in with a black widow. What about using a media blaster?? Damn you make me wanna work on my Z
Right, I was about to ask if a sandblaster could be useful or would it eat up metal
Love to follow your project here. Myself I got no experience whatsoever on car restoration. To me it would be really interesting to hear you go over the big steps that you plan to go through before the car is ”done”. Like the big gameplan just to get an overview of the project. Best of luck from Sweden.
I really like your rotisserie setup too.
So much work, but well worth it. Gotta do the same for my project.
Awesome work mate !
You are awesome bro , your modified cars are Soo beautiful 👌
Oh my god dude great work!
Hi Bradular. Do you have a blueprint for your wooden jig? Love it.
Great job man!
Wow! great job and a ton of work!
This looks great! So satisfying. How are you supporting the chassis?
Raptor liner is the best for undercoating. Might think about it if you want something to last forever.
Look into a thicker undercoating sprayed with a Schutz gun, will protect a lot more against rock chips ☺️
Have you seen the critristrip video? Dude uses that stuff to strip off all the undercoating and paint.
came for the renders, stayed for the build
Should have done eastwood extreme chassis black or eastwood 2k with raptor liner top coat
Ohhh shyt it been along time
Live it alooooooot keep it up ♥️❤️
Was this video shot before or after the removal of the sound deadening? I'm wondering if the Dry ice would pop the undercoating loose as well.
It's probably been asked but how tf did you get the car on its side like that? How is it all supported?
"This cab only be put on fresh primer" *puts on 30+ yo undercoating
I forgot to talk about this in the video! I didn't use the new undercoating on top of the old undercoating. The old undercoating that I left on was scuffed up and cleaned really well, and then a fresh coat of black paint was applied to help it last longer :)
Great job 👏.
That's just a lot of work but its the right thing to do.
Making me wish my 280z wasnt covered in snow right now
Fun fact: Datsun/Nissan didn't undercoat the cars in 70's for the purpose of rust prevention. They did it for sound-proofing. Best to leave it on there in the areas where it's still good (as you are doing) and only remove the stuff where rusty repairs may be needed.
Great work
Just got into this project so I'm catching up. Couldn't help but notice the rusted corners of the rear wheel arch when you were stripping the undercoat. Are you fixing that later? Felt somewhat backwards to me to go through all the good work of cleaning it up and putting on a new undercoat only to later be removing parts of it to repair bodywork.
great job! you are the best!
Hey I have been going down a rabbit hole lateley on the Lexus is300 and have been looking around for a clean rendering of one, I looked through your website and couldn't seem to find one. I was wondering if you ever did one or were interested in doing one maybe.
(Ps: awesome progress on the datsun)
I haven't done one yet!
How has it held up?
Looking at this, I would have grinded down the welds. BUT, the end results looks amazing nonetheless!
Totally. Might go back in the future and grind them down since they’re in easy to reach areas, but for now it works :). Thanks!
Nice work. Are you going to do anything about the huge crease in the driver side floor pan?
hi brad, i have been following your work on Instagram and it inspired me, I'm doing 3d car renderings too. I was wondering if you were in need for a video editor for this channel, I'm definitely not a pro, but I will learn fast:) btw, I'm looking just for experience at the moment .
That’s awesome man! Keep it up! I Currently edit my own videos, but if I’m looking for anything in the future, I’ll make a post about it :)
@@BradBuilds sure will do, have a great one:)
Love the videos! I have a big project I’ve been dreaming of doing but don’t know what to do aesthetically for it, so I was curious if you could do some kind of render for it? Thanks, and keep up the incredible videos!
Instead of the cardboard on the floor, wet your floors when you paint. That will prevent paint from sticking and also prevent dust from getting in the air as you walk around. This is more important when you paint the body of course.
I've seen that done a few times and it looks to work great. My only issue is that I live in a residential neighborhood and my HOA would fine my butt 100 times if they found paint debris on the street from me washing it down the driveway 🤣🤣
Way to go!
Why not send it to get bead blasted or dry ice blasted? I think it's faster and more thorough.
I really love your vids, keep it up🔥🔥
You should protect the inside of the frame rails as well
Once the paint has had a week or two to cure, I plan on hitting all the unreachable areas with fluid film :)
Hello, question about the project cars in general... does project/ restoration cars need insurance? Or is there something different?
If they’re not being driven on streets, then no they do require insurance. But having insurance is always a good idea in case anything happens. I have insurance on this car, even though it’s in parts and it’s very cheap.
@@BradBuilds ok, thank you very much!
why not grind your patch welds smooth ?
Nobody knows just how good REFORMER is. Just don't think of it as a Primer you must think of it as a rust converter. But it is a kick ass Batman Black when it dries thicker than it sprays.
I use REFORMER on both my S30 restomods.
As for under coat for 100$
T-Rex on eBay Gallon urethane bedliner quart of Hardner and spray gun!
It's bedliner not undercoat.
Under coat is not the way to go. Bedliner is RUGGED and water and abrasive resistant. Never dulls into gray, stash black you can hit with a hose and it looks new.
A cup wire wheel on a 4.5 hand grinder is awesome.
Those strip discs are not cheap. Anything 2 component product with Hardness is super rugged long lasting. Good job.
Seriously. It's like magic paint.
I've never heard of TRex, but I'll have to give it a look for next time!
Yeah, normally the strip discs are really expensive, but I found a seller on amazon who sells a pack of 5 for $20. Link is in the description!
i WAS GOING TO USE RUBBERIZED BUT HAVE DECIDED TO GO WITH WAX OIL INSTAED
that was awesome woahhhh 😜
How many hours total?
love this car m8 u need 2 promote ur channel more on ur intsa
I try to promote it a little here and there, I just don't want to do it too much and seem annoying 😅😂
@@BradBuilds yea I get it keep it up ur amazing
This is probably a horrible time to tell you this but you should've used some seam sealer on ever part of where panels overlay ontop of eachother so they dont get water in the creases and rust
Is this applied from the inside of the car on the other side of the seams? Or on the undercarriage itself? I’m trying to identify where my car’s seams are.
You do this from the bottom before you do the under coating, you can do this after primer and sanding. If you are doing this to your car and havent done the grinding process you can see the old seam sealer from factory. you have seam sealer in the engine bay, in the car under all the carpet and trim. it is also on the undercarage. make sure you spread it with your finger or brush
You make me wanna work on my car
I remember doing this on my Z from under the car and I was absolutely FILTHY. I also used Eastwood undercoat and wasn’t happy with the end result, some of it never fully dried
Yeah I heard a few bad things about Eastwood undercoating products. Sorry you had to deal with that!
BradBuilds
It’s all good, it still worked! Love their rust encapsulator though
@@JordanPayneLV I did same to my 280z, i use raptor liner with color and I think is the best choice.
dat_sun280z that definitely would have been the best choice
Could you have sand blasted it to go faster?
Hi from Ukraine🇺🇦🤙, love your videos 🥰👍
that’s crazy cuz i was using that undercoat but i didn’t think to prime the bare metal till after i hope im ok
The undercoating that I used is said to be fine sprayed on bare metal, I just used the rust converter as a second safety :)
You should have used a straight wire, wire wheel on your grinder first to blast all of the coarse material... that would have saved you hours.
Here from instagram
I have a set of those if you needs them, also have some other parts.
A set of lower control arm mounts by the mustache bar
Should've put some bolts in those threads, they're all gunked up now
They’re definitely going to be a bit snug when I put everything back together 😂
Where you at?….been a minute
Shouldn’t you open up your garage for some ventilation?
Definitely! I had my garage door open a few inches, and the side door open with a fan blowing out to create a nice cross breeze. Having the garage door open all the way would be too windy for me to paint though. Also I had a 3M Multi Gas/Vapor Cartridge on my gas mask the entire time 👍
Her name is Cantaloupe?
Hola soy de Mexico y me gustan tus videos pero muchas veces no entiendo nd podrías activar los subtitulo en youtobe
Auto closed captions usually are available within a day or so! :)
could've, should've ground down the excess welding/ bubbles..
So in the end, the one thing I learned in this video:
Just take it to a sandblasting facility to save time, not money. Use that time to make money for this one part ;(
I would've just gotten the body sandblasted, you got some steel balls to bring it down to bare metal. Also last time I check you can get your entire car galvanized and the cost isn't to bad since the process has been around for a while. Then I would stitch weld the chassis, prime the body, coat the body and then prime and then paint.
Next time buy a spraygun and paint it with proper paint or upol raptor. Painting with spraycans are pain in the arse or finger. I'm going to paint/coat my car's floor with upol tintable raptor. And ofcourse will prime it first with some epoxy and then seal the seams with seamsealer.