I have a tendency to get a bit OCD when it comes to the details. I'm a sucker for the early nova's as well, have fun with that project. Glad it helped and thank you for watching!
Been using this for awhile and satisfied with the Raptor Undercoat Spray. Some real good stuff for my 2014 Jeep Wrangler 2door Sport, my 2021 Jeep Rubicon 392 Wrangler, and my 2017 Toyota Tacoma TRD.
Well, the comments say 1978 Datsun 280Z. Without the bumpers, I could not tell. Thank you! I was working at the only dealer in a capitol Midwest city. The sold other European brands but my service mgr. asked me to take these new test for 5 cents per flat rate hour for each I passed. Took all eight & passed. A few months went by, a package came with NIASE Master Tech. These were cars I really loved and owned a 1976, first year after 260Z and had fuel injection. 6 cylinders with 7 electric injectors just like those used today, just clamps on hoses. The 7th injector was for cold start, controlled by a simple “Thermal-Time” switch screwed into the coolant jacket near the front of intake. They used a main fuel pump frame mounted with a pusher pump inside the tank. 1977, they down tuned the cam, dropped compression a little and put a gear reduction starter. House fell a little. Thank you for saving this one. Currently, I own a 1969 1600 Roadster. Convertible two door, power bulged in hood, live hood scoop, recessed headlights w/chrome buckets, disc on front, aluminum finned cast steel drums and full box frame. If you put an MG Midget or MGB on a lift, they flexed so much, you could not open the doors. Datsun did not do that. Over the years, I had diagnosed the root cause and fixed everything from bumper to bumper. I had poly glass wider tires on turbo mag wheels and have hit 130 MPH on a open highway, ran smooth a glass. During the video, you used 5 of everything (Ha ha! But a lot) I read your list but researching for a water based wax & grease remover. I saw the SPI and not sure if solvent base. Could you recommend a water based? I am not required to used it, but many painter videos do water based first, then solvent based also, sand & prep, but use the water based, followed by solvent based again. Retired now, but if I had good choices, I would buy a reasonable priced one and solvent based as well. Many use lint-free body supply paper towel with isopropyl alcohol. I just want to use “Best Practices” with a cheaper price tag. This project now is mine. I want to do it correctly. I will spend money for SPI black epoxy but with 5 dead laptops, they come in a couple of years due to limited wallet. I use an iPhone 6 my son sent for WiFi and email/TH-cam access. Thanks again for your work!
Thanks for watching! Check out some of my other painting video series for more info on wax a grease removers. If you go to bare metal you definitely want to use BOTH waterborne and solvent based W/G removers and SPI manufactures both of them! Lint free wipes are in the description as well, and then tack rag everything clean before spraying 3 coats of epoxy.
That's alot of water ...smirks. I just putty knife hand scraped mine off two Z cars it mostly Fell off from the hot and cold gathering and holding dirt cycles it accumulated over the years. Was rather quuck and easy on both cars. I used the same method inside for the tar sheet sound deading material and a small hammer and stiff heavy duty putty knife. Went rather fast as it was brittle from age. You did LOTS if work it has paid off. I'm very happy with my results as well. Very satisfying And a huge peace of mind knowing it's thoroughly DONE ! R I G H T ! Better than factory
Awesome job! Why didn't you just use your angle grinder @ 4:37? Like you did @ 6:08? I ask because I'm undercoating my '02 Corvette as well as cerakoting suspension components. Also, what tool are you using @ 4:14? What is the caulking for @ 20:00? If you are able to answer my questions, thank you a ton! I subbed a few seconds in because I was so impressed by your project - I am wanting to do something similar.
Thanks for the sub! In the first two timestamps, it was part of a how many different ways can you strip undercoating series on this build. The tool later is a needle scaler, and the caulking is seam sealer. Hope that helps!
Any reason why you haven't used sand blasting? Would be really nice to have some explanations of what's going on especially at 21:05. Thank for the full process though :)
I mentioned in this video th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html why I didn't sandblast this one (I have blasted em in the past) and in this video th-cam.com/video/omuu6Of1388/w-d-xo.html I have a breakdown of all the steps. The algorithm loves the time lapses with no info though so TH-cam pushes those videos more.
@@hcr-motorworks Motor Works I was thinking about some rusty places, when some rust can be left in a small holes where grinder won’t be able to reach. How do you solve those issues? Having epoxy putting on a surface where there are some rust left even tiny one, is not a good idea I believe. There’s also an acid primer to isolate the rust from metal… but I’d just try to sand blast those spots. Would require a mask tape and cellophane around the car, but if it’s just a couple of spots you wouldn’t be buried in a dust I believe.
@@hcr-motorworks oh and I haven't seen any 3M roloc and bristle discs used in any of 3 videos.. or maybe I've skipped something, but I've went through again through all vids and haven't noticed they've been used anywhere. You've did everything with a stripping disc.
I was told by a friend to checkout this video because it was almost the same thing I did. I just did this job to an old car on my channel and thinned the Raptor 10%. Spraying it out of a primer gun will also work really well! I used the schultz gun that comes with the kit for the wheel wells back to the bumper. You're right, this stuff is awesome!! Great job!!
I know I am late to the show but could you have gotten the same result of prepping the car by sandblasting it or does the dry ice and sanding get a different result? Not trying to be rude but I’m coming up on that part of the build and looking into my options
th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Qcp4yFR74Qs0Ez3m Heres the video where i explain the what/why for most of the decisions that were made to get to this point in the build.
Isn't seam sealer meant to be applied on the inside of the vehicle and not the bottom? Or is there some benefit of putting it on the bottom as well? Seems like water could get trapped in between on top of the seals this way.
@@hcr-motorworks thanks for the info! I tried the needle scaler today and it seems to really leave a lot of marks on the metal (I’m also working on a Datsun 240z). Is this just a different pattern of scuffing compared to a strip disc? Or is it really biting the metal deeper do you think? Thanks again
@@Asdf67865 i only use the needle scaler for the last little nooks and crannies that cant be reached any other way with any other tool. I would not use it on flat metal as it does gouge it. Turn down your airpressure as well and increase it to just enough to remove whatever is on the surface. These tools are used to descale and remove rust on PLATE steel and we dont need that much power for these thin metal cars 😀
I would buy a gallon, that would give you two sprayable gallons of product. Undercarriages have a way of taking way more than you think it would need to completely cover every angle with at least 3 coats.
Spot on with everything but one thing, why didn’t you sand blast or have it sand blasted after removal of undercoating? Paint sticks to sand blasted metal like a xhemical bond after sand blasting. Not only that it would have saved you so many hours if prep work and left you a better base for the primer. How long did you wait between primer and bedliner application? Are you going to put paint over primer in areas you taped over? Primer is a hydroscopic no paint it will create rust under the primer.
Thanks for watching! yep everything got painted that was taped. If I would've basted it you wouldn't have had the chance to watch this amazing video ;)
I’ll be doing this to my K5 Blazer once I’m done with a couple small floor patches. Between epoxy primer and the raptor liner I’m hoping it will hold off the rust another 30+ years. Yours turned out great, I just wish I had a rotisserie.😂
th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html In the video above i describe why i did it this way for this video. I've blasted them before but i also realize not everyone has that in their budget so i wanted to document what it would take labor wise if you didn't go the blasting route.
I’m about to spray some SPI epoxy today on my Datsun. Any final tips before I go for it? I’ve degreased and tack clothed. Should I paint the complicated small spots first and then move on to the larger panels? Man… I should have taken your advice more seriously when you said “do not do this”. I’ve put over 200 hours to get to this point hahah.
If you've never painted anything with an hvlp spray gun before the undercarriage is a great first project to hone your skills on before moving on to the body work that everyone will 'see'. The flat sections you'll want a wide fan, when you paint the corners and tight sections youll need to reduce the fan down quite a bit, adjusting both the fluid needle AND the airpressure to get the results your expecting. Its always easier to add paint till it sprays wet instead of having to sand out massive runs! Enjoy this part! You earned it!!!
@@hcr-motorworks thank you!! Im actually just doing the undercarriage. This is very helpful! When I reduce the fan size and air pressure, should I still aim for it to be light and feathery? Large fan = cigar shape Small fan = small cigar? Thanks for your help
@@Asdf67865 for the corners and subframe, and rear frame inside corners and stuff your going to want like a very small fan 2-3" long spraying 6-9" away from the panel. Reset the air pressure to hit 20-25psi (depending on what gun your using) when the airside of the trigger is depressed. After the fan size and pressure are set your going to want to turn the the fluid needle in all the way and back out until your getting a nice wet coat. If you find you can move faster and the paint isn't coming out quick enough then you can add another 1/4 to 1/2 turn out for more fluid. If your getting runs and stuff then you need to turn your fluid back in. Just wet is what your looking for. I would hit the corners first with at least 2-3 coats (1hr between coats) and then set the gun up for the wide fan (all the way open on fan, reset pressure again back to 20-25 and then set fluid) for the rest of the undercarriage and spray 2-3 coats on the whole underside covering up the overspray from the corners. This way the whole underside will have a nice uniform wet coat in the end. If you hit the corners last your going to see overspray and a dry line on ever corner.
I don't subscribe to any of the rust top coat products. I always remove rust, clean, epoxy prime and then topcoat with either basecoat/clear or a product like raptor liner etc.
@@テンペスト112 This was originally planned as a "get it back on the road rebuild" we budgeted about 25k. Obviously things escalated quickly and many many many more things were added to the build list to-do sheet. This build will be approaching the six figure mark by the time its out the door.
how much would something very similar to this cost usd? looking to restore a treasured 91 mr2 thats seen some winters here in the upper states. Thanks!
Thats tough to answer. Most of the time the car has to be taken down to a certain level to get this involved. Most shops wouldnt even entertain this job at 5-10k unless it was part of a 50k+ restoration/rebuild.
I sprayed 3 coats of epoxy with 1hr between coats and then let dry overnight before spraying the 3 coats of raptor liner giving 1hr between coats. I did not scuff the epoxy before the raptor liner. The chemical adhesion that takes place while the epoxy is fresh and then cures is actually stronger than mechanical adhesion you would get from letting the epoxy cure for a week and then scuffing.
Hello im going to do this in the future of my Saab 9000 Aero race/street car. I am just wondering, because i recon you didnt have time to scrape/sand down the hole undernbody in one day and clean it and then paint first layer. I will only be able to do this on the weekends and im wonerding, say i get one surface clean and then i cant work for a week and when i comeback its started to rust again. How did you eliminate that problem?
It was totally done in a day, lol I'm just kidding. But in all seriousness metal doesn't rust as fast as people tend to believe. The majority of the work is in the stripping. Once your done with all of that then you can just go back over everything with the nylon cup brush or a DA sander and 80grit and hit everything again before wax and grease remover and epoxy primer. I would section it up into tasks instead of sections of the car. Strip, sand, clean, clean again, clean more, tack rag, epoxy, raptor.
I only use southern polyurethanes inc (SPI) epoxy primer on bare metal. Best product for the money hands down, and they cant be beat for the DIY garage builder type with above and beyond customer service.
This was part of a much deeper rotisserie restoration so its hard to put a price on what this specific job within that build would/should cost. I'll say if your not planning a six figure build its probably not going to make sense to dive this deep just for an undercarriage restoration.
Depends on the rust situation...if its a northern climate salt on the roads issue i dont think theres anything that can be done except move somewhere warmer 😉
Thank you! I'm just a home shop DIY guy doing this stuff for fun and documenting the processes. I'd want a full paint booth setup before I'd agree to be charging for body work haha
HCR - Motor Works I understand 😊 Keep at it, brother! And if you ever decide that you want to do the body work (no painting) just hit me up and I’ll haul my Z from TN to wherever you are!
Now THIS is a job done PROPERLY. After the Raprot had cured, I would flood all the box sections iwth a good wax, then coat the whole of the underside with Lanoguard or the like.
I use the panasonic g85 and the g7 for filming of most all of the footage you see here. amzn.to/32WEAuB The spray footage is usually shot on a go-pro due to the overspray and such.
@@hcr-motorworks Okay I hope I can find one in my country, thanks for the info and keep up the good work. I have a Toyota Hilux 1996, gonna make some project like you did. Wish me luck 💪🏻
On the Raptor Liner the first two coats are thick and fairly runny...think like spraying tar basically. There's a lot of unevenness with these types of products but you have to get the build thick enough so its effective in protecting the surface. The texture coat is to give it an even roughness and uniform coat on top of the thick layers and make it look better. All you have to do is up the pressure and double the spraying distance and do long uniform sweeps with it on the 3rd or final coat.
Awesome video question instead of the epoxy I was thinking on using the rust encapsulator from Eastwood and than apply the raptor liner same process as you but use the encapsulator as primer would that work also? I want to prevent rust as much as possible
I prefer to remove the rust as much as possible. I never use rust encapsulaters/converters. Seems like just kicking the can down the road instead of fixing the problem.
@@hcr-motorworks really oh wow and I thought that would be a better option which expoxy do you recommend I tried looking on your links below but I didn’t see the epoxy
@@hcr-motorworks awesome I just found it I’m getting it for sure I’m gonna start my project next weekend , what product did you add at the end you mentioned for texture ?
@@Maxmgm212. its the raptor liner undercoating. That should be in links in the description, let me know if its not and ill fix it! I used around 2 kits if i remember correctly to do the whole undercarriage.
I go over the decision process for stripping this way vs blasting in another video. Basically wanted to replicate what others could have available to them in their shop/garages.
What an incredible attention to details! This is a couple of steps ahead of me and this video was great. Do you suggest any other protection product beside Raptor? 3M, Dinitrol... ? Subscribing!
I just use raptor liner if its a home garage DIY type build. If your throwing a ton of money at it youll get more build thickness if you had line x or the like applied at a professional shop. But raptor liner is some pretty awesome stuff by itself and i have found no need to add any other products to it or on top of it.
Super impressive effort! I really enjoyed seeing the amount of work that went into getting the underside back to bare metal. Are there scenarios that the needle scaler works better than flap discs, wire wheels etc? I've just never seen anyone use one before :)
I do not clean the gun between coats. At the end of the job I do thoroughly clean it with a quality automotive Reducer and it cleans up with ease. Haven't tried box store thinner or mineral spirits on it. The Reducer I use is Southern Polyurethanes reducer and its around 30 a gallon and works amazing. I'm sure any local paint supply shop around you carries reducer that will work in a similar manner. Thanks!
What's tmwas the first glossy black layer you put on? And what was the silicone for( guessing water sealing the body? Is it necessary?)? How did you prep the silicon for the raptor paint?
This video is a compilation of the completed project. Go check out the videos before this one to get a breakdown of the entire process with more detail and explanations. The first layer is a 2-part epoxy primer, the tube sealant is 3m fast-n-firm seam sealer (its necessary and its most definitely NOT SILICONE, NEVER USE SILICONE as it will cause massive issues) the Seam sealer is made to be painted on and there is no prep required other than making sure its clean and free of wax and grease. Thanks for watching!
I've been using southern polyurethanes epoxy for nearly 15yrs with no ill effects, it's super user friendly and this is one company that is DIY friendly in their tech support. Try contacting one of the big boy name brands and tell em your painting it in your garage and see how much support you get. For that reason alone I'm an SPI and TAMCO fan just based on the DIY community and customer support afforded to the home/garage/self learning DIY'ers. Your not going to get better support from any other company out their in my opinion. That and its affordable, works very well, and is local to me. I can order by phone and have it delivered the next day in most cases. It really is amazing stuff for the home shop guys, give it a try if your on the fence.
Great example of why you should get a chassis chemical dipped to take all that gunk off, think off all the time that could have been saved and it would have been completely stripped 100%
Really Impressive work! What reason did you decide to use the raptor coating? I have the body off my project and am about to start on the same process. i'm trying to decide what product to use. If you did it again would you use the same product?
Thanks for watching! In my opinion and experience, raptor liner is probably the best DIY product in the market for this kind of thing. The only other thing that would be 'better' would be taking it to the professionals and getting it linex'd or the like if you wanted a really thick build undercoating or something. But in my opinion, raptor liner provides adequate build and protection for undercoating without the need to hire it out. Its a fun project but completely is reliant on proper prep in each and every step for good results.
Would sand blasting the car have been easier? Or was this a budget way to go? I have an 87 crx si that I plan to restore, was going to have it sandblasted and painted
th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html Check out this video where I break down all the methods and why I did what I did for this project. Sometimes the easy way isn't the best way, on your CRX, or any car body for that matter, you should not blast the body panels, engine bay, undercarriage, interior are ok as long as you hire an experienced blaster and do wet/dustless/vapor blasting...I would NEVER dry blast any sheet metal as the heat will warp and oil can everywhere and ruin it, even with an experienced guy at the nozzle.
@@hcr-motorworks that is incorrect, it will not get hot let alone warp sheet metal unless your putting the nozzle point blank right next to the metal. The only disadvantage is its messy and yes the water vapor blasting would be preferred on body panels not under carriage, the last thing you want is water entrapment right before you seam seal. I dont know what experience your opinions on sand blasting come from they are wrong i speak from experience. There is no other method other than dry ice blasting that achieve the paint bond bar none!
@@hcr-motorworks absolute legend thank you. So epoxy. Seam sealer. Epoxy then raptor. Do you have to scotch/key the surface in between the coats. Ready fpr the raptor?
@sabz_bhp not if it's within the 7 days cure time window. I usually give 24-48hrs between sets to ensure adequate flash times but not full cure. If you go beyond the 7 days of epoxy curing before you get a chance to top coat it then yes you'll need to scuff it before the next coat.
I bought two 4 bottle kits so 8 bottles total and it was enough to do the entire undercarriage as you saw in this video as well as the front inner fenders and frame supports on this video th-cam.com/video/pKn3Mt2SWfY/w-d-xo.html Use the Amazon links in the description if your going to buy a kit or two as it greatly helps out the channel and my ability to do these projects! Thanks for watching
I'd say that if your going to use something other than raptor liner it needs to come in a two-part system. A base and a catalyst, or activator of some kind. Anything that comes in a tub, bucket, pail, container etc that is one part or "ready to spray" right off the store shelf is not going to work near as good as the raptor liner. Thanks for watching!
@@hcr-motorworks Thanks ! Maybe I will use it for my miata undercarriage, Upol also sells special epoxy primer for raptor. Expensive but hope it will last for years ! You did an amazing job
@@watai My advice would be to do exactly what i did my previous videos if you want it to last a lifetime. Strip to bare metal, clean, clean clean, and when your tired of cleaning the bare metal, clean some more. Then lay down some good two part epoxy primer (hands down Southern poly urethanes is the best stuff for the price and home shop environment) then Use a quality seam sealer (brush able or tube kind) and then Lay down another coat of epoxy once that has cured. Then and only then are you ready to add the raptor liner on the new and clean epoxy primer. Doing it this way and adhering to all the steps along the way will surely lead to a successful outcome that will last many decades. My earlier videos on the undercarriage lay out everything in detail. ENJOY!
@@AdrianMontana I apply the 2-3 coats of epoxy to the prepped bare metal and let that dry overnight. Next day I do the seam sealer and let that dry up overnight, day 3 I throw another coat of epoxy over the seam sealer and give it another overnight drying cycle and then on day 4 do the raptor liner WITHOUT scuffing the epoxy primer. With SPI at least, as long as your within the 7 day curing window you can topcoat without scuffing. Anything outside the 7 day window your going to have to hit it with a marron scuff pad at the very least before any additional epoxy coats or top coats are applied.
Haha, i actually explained why i didn't blast it all off in a separate video. Came down to cost and ability most other garage shops would have access to.
Sure thing! amzn.to/3mfrKQc Do NOT use regular blue "shop towels" these ones above are lint free. The shop towels will leave behind all kinds of trash and it will ruin your efforts!
@@hcr-motorworks That was fast. Thank you so much. This, and the video helped and gave me tips a ton! Been looking around for a full, not cut video of the process
I strive for greatness! lol I have all of the videos in the 280Z build album. Not sure which part your looking for specifically but here's all the undercarriage videos in order 1 cleaning - th-cam.com/video/LUR2cSDQxZs/w-d-xo.html 2 undercoating removal - th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html 3 metal and surface prep - th-cam.com/video/GdapVksYGFg/w-d-xo.html 4 primer - th-cam.com/video/jTz7iUK0OIc/w-d-xo.html 5 raptor liner - th-cam.com/video/omuu6Of1388/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps!
@@hcr-motorworks I will dive into them, definetely! One other question, basically all epoxy primer is good for raptor, not just the U-pol original product made for it?
Ehh, that's a loaded question but to sum it up yes any 'polyurethane epoxy primer' No single part or 1k products, only use a 2k epoxy or something that comes with an activator and you should be good...lol I'm sure there's a ton of back and forth that people will get into with 'compatibility' issues or potential issues from mixing and matching products from different suppliers but for what its worth I have NEVER used UPOL primers, not saying its bad or wont work but I ONLY recommend two companies for paint products and that's southern polyurethanes inc - www.southernpolyurethanes.com/ Or TAMCO paints - tamcopaint.com/ Paint and body is one of those segments of the industry that there's like some secret code and tribal knowledge and the big boys don't share information willingly so I narrowed my purchases to the two companies that I believe that go above and beyond and completely out of their way to spread information to the hobbyist, enthusiasts , home builder. That's something you will not get from any other name brand big wig corporation. Tamco and SPI have literally built their business around helping the one man shop and I can't say enough good things about them.
Thats really tough to answer. Each job is different and requires an approach specific to the task and desired outcome...That said, most Z owners typically never pay for this type of restoration and they do it themselves because of the costs involved to get it to this level...if this was a Bugatti however...
Hey thanks for the video. Looks amazing. Did you have any issues with heat from the exhaust and the raptor liner holding up? I’ve read the max temp is 185 once applied. I’m about to undercoat and wanted to see if there were any issues with that!
I have not had any issues with it heating up or falling off. Good prep is key here though. You may have issues with it becoming soft and becoming easier to damage from road debris around the exhaust sections but it should hold up fine. If your worried about it you can always ceramic coat or wrap your exhaust where its close.
This is the video I needed. I had nearly the same plans for my evo. Only difference is I plan on blasting everything off the underbody, and plan on using white paint before doing the undercoating (also tinted white)
The secret stew here is that car did not have a single real rust area to even mention or talk about and it's probably gonna live a long time into the future. That's a totally awe inspiring screwin around doing that thing... Usually most cars have those inner rust holes and it's out of the question to totally cure the problems. This car had zero rust being garage kept since it took a shit or whatever reasons it was parked. It will live on now after that job
@@hcr-motorworks THERE CLEARLY AIN;T NOT RUST SPOT IN THAT THING NOTHING TO SPEAK OF NOT LIKE WE GET HERE IN THE POCONO MOUNTAINTS... SO STOP CHOVELING HORSE SHIT I DO THE SAME SHIT U DO... ONLY U GET BETTER PROJECTS LIKE THAT ONE. IF YA NEED SOME PICS TO SOBER YA UP GRAN A CUP OF HOT JOE OKAY AND I WILL SOBER YA UP WHAT THESE CARS LOOK LIKE HERE. DON'T LOOK LIKE THAT ONE TOP R BOTTOM SIDE... MAYBE THE CHICOMS GAVE A Y'ALL A FEW PESOS TO SAY THAT TO ME HUH?? THAT THING U GOT HAS BEEN SITTING QUIETLY IN A CLOSET FOR DECADES... I KNOW THE DIFF I WORK ON DAILY LIKE U DO
@@jamesmccaul2945 I call bullshit just like it I see it... I know set up videos... There R many diff climates in the south land... It aint what we get to fuddle with here and put back together.. Most of the shit looks like a piece of swiss cheese that comes in my shop... I just don't brag about the shit we get here... There is nothing to brag about it... That thing was in a garage for many years it was no street survivor...
Buying ANYTHING from AMAZON??? Click any of the links above and then go buy WHATEVER YOU WANT!!! The shop will earn a tiny commission from whatever you buy! It doesn't have to be the actual product on the link!
You lie! There's no way you had fun ;) I'm doing the exact same thing to a Jeep YJ and I know how much effort all that stripping and preparation takes. Curious why you didn't go with sandblasting. That saves some time.
I lay out why I didn't sandblast it in this video - th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html I've done it in the past and on some other projects but it wasn't in the cards for this one, it cost a lot more money and doesn't make for as fun of a video :) Thanks for watching and subscribing!
@@hcr-motorworks I already started that other video. I found a place locally where they have DIY sandblasting. Costs about $150/hr and I did my whole tub in an hour. There is still some sand in the crevices, but overall it got perfectly clean and was cheap. No need to worry about cleanup either!
@@johnniemo thats awesome they allow DIY blasting. Maybe post that company up for anyone else in your area to take advantage of that deal! All the blasters around here want in thr 1k range to blast a shell
@@hcr-motorworks Sure thing. It was in Calgary and they are called Consolidated Compressor. I will post a video on my channel once I get the Raptor Liner installed.
I'd have to have a bit more info to give an accurate number. Like how much in raptor liner or everything included to do the job like epoxy, raptor liner, cleaners, abrasives etc.
Not when you properly prep the metal and use a good quality 2 part epoxy primer like I did...of course if your talking salt infected zones yea all bets are off
@@hcr-motorworks mine hasn't and all I did was power wash it and let it dry. It's great for making things look a lot better than they actually are. Which confused me a little with the 280 it's so nice why hide that a good mat black would of looked so perfect and showed how nice the car is underneath.
you guys would problably recieve alot more attention and subscribers if you talked over your footage, the music playing over what should be an explanation sucks fyi
And yet, its the highest viewed video on the channel the way it is. Ive got voiceovers on the rest of the build process but the completion project got the music.
@@hcr-motorworksI love finding a channel that thinks they’re better than the criticism they revive. Keep booming with your 4k. Clearly better car videos than what you got out there
@applekidn1 I don't think I'm better, I think the criticism was fair, just stated that every in depth video that made this compilation video DOES have voice-over and received like 2-300 views...this one gave no explanation of the process, has free music throughout and somehow has literally the most views on the channel...so clearly I don't know wat the algorithm or the consumer wants, that was my point.
The attention to detail is awesome to see. I'm going to use this method on my 62 Nova, and it was very informative.
I have a tendency to get a bit OCD when it comes to the details. I'm a sucker for the early nova's as well, have fun with that project. Glad it helped and thank you for watching!
Agreed, the prep, the making up, super nice glossy paint finish then protected with Raptor ontop, absolute perfection...
Labor of love! Good to see good work like this!
Thanks!
Thanks for the superchat!!
Your attention to detail - is front and center.
‘ Very impressive.
MUCH appreciated!!
Thanks for all these instructional videos. I'm planning on doing a ground up restoration on my 78 280Z so this will come in handy
Anytime, Glad I can help!
man, you put so much effort on that job, loved watching this!!
Thanks for watching, glad you enjoyed it!
So satisfying to watch you clean the underside.
It was a lot of work but definitely turned out good! Thanks for watching!
I have watched this video 10 times. Very nice thank you for producing this series.
Thank you for watching it so many times!!!
Great job, will save and use this as a reference for when I do this on my AE86.
Been using this for awhile and satisfied with the Raptor Undercoat Spray. Some real good stuff for my 2014 Jeep Wrangler 2door Sport, my 2021 Jeep Rubicon 392 Wrangler, and my 2017 Toyota Tacoma TRD.
I love the stuff and have been very happy with it myself
Well, the comments say 1978 Datsun 280Z. Without the bumpers, I could not tell. Thank you! I was working at the only dealer in a capitol Midwest city. The sold other European brands but my service mgr. asked me to take these new test for 5 cents per flat rate hour for each I passed. Took all eight & passed. A few months went by, a package came with NIASE Master Tech. These were cars I really loved and owned a 1976, first year after 260Z and had fuel injection. 6 cylinders with 7 electric injectors just like those used today, just clamps on hoses. The 7th injector was for cold start, controlled by a simple “Thermal-Time” switch screwed into the coolant jacket near the front of intake. They used a main fuel pump frame mounted with a pusher pump inside the tank. 1977, they down tuned the cam, dropped compression a little and put a gear reduction starter. House fell a little. Thank you for saving this one. Currently, I own a 1969 1600 Roadster. Convertible two door, power bulged in hood, live hood scoop, recessed headlights w/chrome buckets, disc on front, aluminum finned cast steel drums and full box frame. If you put an MG Midget or MGB on a lift, they flexed so much, you could not open the doors. Datsun did not do that. Over the years, I had diagnosed the root cause and fixed everything from bumper to bumper. I had poly glass wider tires on turbo mag wheels and have hit 130 MPH on a open highway, ran smooth a glass. During the video, you used 5 of everything (Ha ha! But a lot) I read your list but researching for a water based wax & grease remover. I saw the SPI and not sure if solvent base. Could you recommend a water based? I am not required to used it, but many painter videos do water based first, then solvent based also, sand & prep, but use the water based, followed by solvent based again. Retired now, but if I had good choices, I would buy a reasonable priced one and solvent based as well. Many use lint-free body supply paper towel with isopropyl alcohol. I just want to use “Best Practices” with a cheaper price tag. This project now is mine. I want to do it correctly. I will spend money for SPI black epoxy but with 5 dead laptops, they come in a couple of years due to limited wallet. I use an iPhone 6 my son sent for WiFi and email/TH-cam access. Thanks again for your work!
Thanks for watching! Check out some of my other painting video series for more info on wax a grease removers. If you go to bare metal you definitely want to use BOTH waterborne and solvent based W/G removers and SPI manufactures both of them! Lint free wipes are in the description as well, and then tack rag everything clean before spraying 3 coats of epoxy.
Now that’s a ton of work! Looks great
It was! Thanks for watching!
Nice job. I learned a few tricks I will apply to my project . Thanks so much.
Glad it was helpful!
That's alot of water ...smirks.
I just putty knife hand scraped mine off two Z cars it mostly Fell off from the hot and cold gathering and holding dirt cycles it accumulated over the years.
Was rather quuck and easy on both cars. I used the same method inside for the tar sheet sound deading material and a small hammer and stiff heavy duty putty knife.
Went rather fast as it was brittle from age.
You did LOTS if work it has paid off.
I'm very happy with my results as well.
Very satisfying And a huge peace of mind knowing it's thoroughly DONE ! R I G H T !
Better than factory
Thanks for the support!
Wow I'm impressed with your cleaning effort and all the joint sealing, I'll bet that damn thing floats now.
Thank you!
I'm happy to be done with that phase of the build that's for sure!
This man did it right!
Thanks!
Man that was satisfying to watch 👏 very nice work. Will be tackling this soon and it’s overwhelming how ocd I know I’m going to go on this
Thanks for watching! Its definitely a time consuming process
Just came upon this video while researching to undercoat with Raptor on my truck.. Love this video and subscribed!
Thanks for the sub!
Come on people... you've got to like and subscribe for his hard and immaculate job he has done.....
HAHA Thanks for the kind words!
Yes it was hard work. How will the under coating hold up to salt and real work conditions?
Top job my man!
Appreciate it!
Awesome job! Why didn't you just use your angle grinder @ 4:37? Like you did @ 6:08? I ask because I'm undercoating my '02 Corvette as well as cerakoting suspension components. Also, what tool are you using @ 4:14? What is the caulking for @ 20:00?
If you are able to answer my questions, thank you a ton! I subbed a few seconds in because I was so impressed by your project - I am wanting to do something similar.
Thanks for the sub! In the first two timestamps, it was part of a how many different ways can you strip undercoating series on this build. The tool later is a needle scaler, and the caulking is seam sealer. Hope that helps!
@@hcr-motorworks Awesome! That helps a ton, thanks! Much luck on your channel. I'll stay tuned into your Datsun build.
@@hcr-motorworks That was very helpful, many thanks!
Thats awesome work done ever
Thank you!
Awsome.. very inspiring
Thanks a lot
Now that's a lot of work lol. That's crazy...
Also a ton of fun! 😀
Any reason why you haven't used sand blasting? Would be really nice to have some explanations of what's going on especially at 21:05. Thank for the full process though :)
I mentioned in this video th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html why I didn't sandblast this one (I have blasted em in the past) and in this video th-cam.com/video/omuu6Of1388/w-d-xo.html I have a breakdown of all the steps. The algorithm loves the time lapses with no info though so TH-cam pushes those videos more.
@@hcr-motorworks oh thank you, sorry I’ve just came here from a TH-cam search. Will definitely take a look now :)
@@Holms ANYTIME! Thanks for stopping by and watching!
@@hcr-motorworks Motor Works I was thinking about some rusty places, when some rust can be left in a small holes where grinder won’t be able to reach. How do you solve those issues? Having epoxy putting on a surface where there are some rust left even tiny one, is not a good idea I believe. There’s also an acid primer to isolate the rust from metal… but I’d just try to sand blast those spots. Would require a mask tape and cellophane around the car, but if it’s just a couple of spots you wouldn’t be buried in a dust I believe.
@@hcr-motorworks oh and I haven't seen any 3M roloc and bristle discs used in any of 3 videos.. or maybe I've skipped something, but I've went through again through all vids and haven't noticed they've been used anywhere. You've did everything with a stripping disc.
I was told by a friend to checkout this video because it was almost the same thing I did.
I just did this job to an old car on my channel and thinned the Raptor 10%. Spraying it out of a primer gun will also work really well! I used the schultz gun that comes with the kit for the wheel wells back to the bumper. You're right, this stuff is awesome!! Great job!!
I love this stuff for sure! thanks for watching!
@@hcr-motorworkshow does this hold up with time? Thinking about doing this to my car
@@the_cosmic_cowboy12 proper prep is absolutely the biggest reason for longevity. if you do minimal prep expect minimal lifespan.
Good job. I would of used a non black primer so you can tell how thick the Raptor liner is. Please give us an update.
any chipping could show unsightly gray primer areas instead of remaining a uniform black undercarriage.
Hi! awesome work, but what is the primer ?
Southern Poly Urethanes 2 part Epoxy Primer
Would this promote more rust while trapping in moisture
Not unless you didnt properly prep the surface beforehand...or docked it at the boat ramp
I know I am late to the show but could you have gotten the same result of prepping the car by sandblasting it or does the dry ice and sanding get a different result? Not trying to be rude but I’m coming up on that part of the build and looking into my options
th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Qcp4yFR74Qs0Ez3m
Heres the video where i explain the what/why for most of the decisions that were made to get to this point in the build.
Isn't seam sealer meant to be applied on the inside of the vehicle and not the bottom? Or is there some benefit of putting it on the bottom as well? Seems like water could get trapped in between on top of the seals this way.
On these Z's I seal everywhere there's a seam. I do leave gaps for any moisture to drain out of any areas where water could penetrate in from above.
@@hcr-motorworks thanks for the info! Also, what’s the name of the finger like tool being used around ~10 minutes? Looks good for getting the edges
@@Asdf67865 Its a needle scaler and a MUST have for completely getting into the nooks and crannies amzn.to/3JR5iIh
@@hcr-motorworks thanks for the info! I tried the needle scaler today and it seems to really leave a lot of marks on the metal (I’m also working on a Datsun 240z). Is this just a different pattern of scuffing compared to a strip disc? Or is it really biting the metal deeper do you think? Thanks again
@@Asdf67865 i only use the needle scaler for the last little nooks and crannies that cant be reached any other way with any other tool. I would not use it on flat metal as it does gouge it. Turn down your airpressure as well and increase it to just enough to remove whatever is on the surface. These tools are used to descale and remove rust on PLATE steel and we dont need that much power for these thin metal cars 😀
Can you tell me whether a quart of epoxy is enough to completely cover (prime) the underside of an old military jeep? TIA.
I would buy a gallon, that would give you two sprayable gallons of product. Undercarriages have a way of taking way more than you think it would need to completely cover every angle with at least 3 coats.
Spot on with everything but one thing, why didn’t you sand blast or have it sand blasted after removal of undercoating? Paint sticks to sand blasted metal like a xhemical bond after sand blasting. Not only that it would have saved you so many hours if prep work and left you a better base for the primer. How long did you wait between primer and bedliner application? Are you going to put paint over primer in areas you taped over? Primer is a hydroscopic no paint it will create rust under the primer.
Thanks for watching! yep everything got painted that was taped. If I would've basted it you wouldn't have had the chance to watch this amazing video ;)
Would this undercoating do any good if its sprayed on Lizardskin noise and heat insulated undercarriage?
Lizard skin is a great option for the interior if spraying. We used dynamat for the sound deadening on this build in a later video.
I’ll be doing this to my K5 Blazer once I’m done with a couple small floor patches. Between epoxy primer and the raptor liner I’m hoping it will hold off the rust another 30+ years. Yours turned out great, I just wish I had a rotisserie.😂
it definitely makes the job easier! there's a link in the description for a rotisserie if you decide to go that route!
Holy s**t that was a lot of work! How many days did you spend removing all the undercoating to prepare for primer? I would have taken to sandblaster.
th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html
In the video above i describe why i did it this way for this video. I've blasted them before but i also realize not everyone has that in their budget so i wanted to document what it would take labor wise if you didn't go the blasting route.
Doing this to my full custom 50 hudson
Awesome project!
holy crap that's pretty
Thanks for watching!
Do you do this for a living? If so I’d like to talk to you about pricing.
I don't do this full-time anymore. But this process was one step in a lets just say fairly expensive and extensive restoration project budget.
A MA ZING!!
How long doe this bedliner last? Is it at least 99.99% water proof? Can it last 15 years in snow aalt conditions?
Would entirely be dependant on the proper prep before the application of it.
I’m about to spray some SPI epoxy today on my Datsun. Any final tips before I go for it? I’ve degreased and tack clothed. Should I paint the complicated small spots first and then move on to the larger panels?
Man… I should have taken your advice more seriously when you said “do not do this”. I’ve put over 200 hours to get to this point hahah.
If you've never painted anything with an hvlp spray gun before the undercarriage is a great first project to hone your skills on before moving on to the body work that everyone will 'see'.
The flat sections you'll want a wide fan, when you paint the corners and tight sections youll need to reduce the fan down quite a bit, adjusting both the fluid needle AND the airpressure to get the results your expecting. Its always easier to add paint till it sprays wet instead of having to sand out massive runs!
Enjoy this part! You earned it!!!
@@hcr-motorworks thank you!! Im actually just doing the undercarriage. This is very helpful! When I reduce the fan size and air pressure, should I still aim for it to be light and feathery?
Large fan = cigar shape
Small fan = small cigar?
Thanks for your help
@@Asdf67865 for the corners and subframe, and rear frame inside corners and stuff your going to want like a very small fan 2-3" long spraying 6-9" away from the panel. Reset the air pressure to hit 20-25psi (depending on what gun your using) when the airside of the trigger is depressed. After the fan size and pressure are set your going to want to turn the the fluid needle in all the way and back out until your getting a nice wet coat. If you find you can move faster and the paint isn't coming out quick enough then you can add another 1/4 to 1/2 turn out for more fluid. If your getting runs and stuff then you need to turn your fluid back in. Just wet is what your looking for. I would hit the corners first with at least 2-3 coats (1hr between coats) and then set the gun up for the wide fan (all the way open on fan, reset pressure again back to 20-25 and then set fluid) for the rest of the undercarriage and spray 2-3 coats on the whole underside covering up the overspray from the corners. This way the whole underside will have a nice uniform wet coat in the end. If you hit the corners last your going to see overspray and a dry line on ever corner.
Hi! I believe you've heard of mastercoat primer, do you think I can use raptor liner as a top coat? Do you think they go well with each other?
I don't subscribe to any of the rust top coat products. I always remove rust, clean, epoxy prime and then topcoat with either basecoat/clear or a product like raptor liner etc.
Good job man , how many quarts of raptor did you use ?
This job used 2 full kits I believe, so right around 8 quarts.
How much do you think this would cost if I were to get it done at a local shop??
It would probably be a part of a much broader restoration cost for the whole build.
@@hcr-motorworks How much do you guys usually charge for this kind of build??
@@テンペスト112 This was originally planned as a "get it back on the road rebuild" we budgeted about 25k. Obviously things escalated quickly and many many many more things were added to the build list to-do sheet. This build will be approaching the six figure mark by the time its out the door.
how much would something very similar to this cost usd? looking to restore a treasured 91 mr2 thats seen some winters here in the upper states. Thanks!
Thats tough to answer. Most of the time the car has to be taken down to a certain level to get this involved. Most shops wouldnt even entertain this job at 5-10k unless it was part of a 50k+ restoration/rebuild.
You can also hit with a clearcoat after to make it last even longer!
yep, even better durability as long as its coated within the timeframes to allow for proper adhesion!
So you didn't have to scuff the epoxy before applying the Raptor Liner? Is it still adhering pretty well?
I sprayed 3 coats of epoxy with 1hr between coats and then let dry overnight before spraying the 3 coats of raptor liner giving 1hr between coats. I did not scuff the epoxy before the raptor liner. The chemical adhesion that takes place while the epoxy is fresh and then cures is actually stronger than mechanical adhesion you would get from letting the epoxy cure for a week and then scuffing.
Awesome job👍
I wanted to do the same undercoating on my 67 merc.
What kind of primer did you use before applying the raptor?
I always use Southern Polyurethane (SPI) epoxy primer. For DIY paint jobs at home its simply the best
Hello im going to do this in the future of my Saab 9000 Aero race/street car. I am just wondering, because i recon you didnt have time to scrape/sand down the hole undernbody in one day and clean it and then paint first layer. I will only be able to do this on the weekends and im wonerding, say i get one surface clean and then i cant work for a week and when i comeback its started to rust again. How did you eliminate that problem?
It was totally done in a day, lol I'm just kidding. But in all seriousness metal doesn't rust as fast as people tend to believe. The majority of the work is in the stripping. Once your done with all of that then you can just go back over everything with the nylon cup brush or a DA sander and 80grit and hit everything again before wax and grease remover and epoxy primer. I would section it up into tasks instead of sections of the car. Strip, sand, clean, clean again, clean more, tack rag, epoxy, raptor.
@@hcr-motorworks Oh Okey thanks :) What is good to use as first layer prime? 2k? 2k epoxy?
What did you use? :)
I only use southern polyurethanes inc (SPI) epoxy primer on bare metal. Best product for the money hands down, and they cant be beat for the DIY garage builder type with above and beyond customer service.
Would doing this protect underbody and frames from rust
If prepped properly yes. If done improperly or skipping steps it'll help trap moisture and rust even faster!
Great job! I'm not going this route but still very nice.
Thanks!
What’s an estimated cost for thing on a 4th gen camaro and what would the price difference be to sandblast?
This was part of a much deeper rotisserie restoration so its hard to put a price on what this specific job within that build would/should cost. I'll say if your not planning a six figure build its probably not going to make sense to dive this deep just for an undercarriage restoration.
Does this trap moisture in like the stonechip?
Not if done properly.
Does this keep the rust off thinking of having it done with my jeep how much does this cost?
Depends on the rust situation...if its a northern climate salt on the roads issue i dont think theres anything that can be done except move somewhere warmer 😉
I would like to know... how long did it take you???
Less than a month, working on it part time during the week and the weekends.
Any chance you would consider doing the body work on my ‘77 280? Your attention to detail and thoroughness is like the Singer of the Datsun world!
Thank you! I'm just a home shop DIY guy doing this stuff for fun and documenting the processes. I'd want a full paint booth setup before I'd agree to be charging for body work haha
HCR - Motor Works
I understand 😊 Keep at it, brother! And if you ever decide that you want to do the body work (no painting) just hit me up and I’ll haul my Z from TN to wherever you are!
Now THIS is a job done PROPERLY. After the Raprot had cured, I would flood all the box sections iwth a good wax, then coat the whole of the underside with Lanoguard or the like.
Thanks for the kind words!
how many years will it last in the salt belt?
I recommend moving away from anywhere involving salt on the roads if you care about cars 😉
Hello HCR, what camera do you use for this timelapse? Because I have some project to make.
I use the panasonic g85 and the g7 for filming of most all of the footage you see here.
amzn.to/32WEAuB
The spray footage is usually shot on a go-pro due to the overspray and such.
@@hcr-motorworks Okay I hope I can find one in my country, thanks for the info and keep up the good work. I have a Toyota Hilux 1996, gonna make some project like you did. Wish me luck 💪🏻
@@AR-fj7km good luck my friend!
What is this? Dry ice? 4:09
Sure is!
Any chance explaining difference between coating and the texture coat? Is it just shoot from a further distance for smoother lay of the paint? Cheers
On the Raptor Liner the first two coats are thick and fairly runny...think like spraying tar basically. There's a lot of unevenness with these types of products but you have to get the build thick enough so its effective in protecting the surface. The texture coat is to give it an even roughness and uniform coat on top of the thick layers and make it look better. All you have to do is up the pressure and double the spraying distance and do long uniform sweeps with it on the 3rd or final coat.
@@hcr-motorworks thanks very much 👍
Awesome video question instead of the epoxy I was thinking on using the rust encapsulator from Eastwood and than apply the raptor liner same process as you but use the encapsulator as primer would that work also? I want to prevent rust as much as possible
I prefer to remove the rust as much as possible. I never use rust encapsulaters/converters. Seems like just kicking the can down the road instead of fixing the problem.
@@hcr-motorworks really oh wow and I thought that would be a better option which expoxy do you recommend I tried looking on your links below but I didn’t see the epoxy
@@Maxmgm212. southern polyurethane for the epoxy hands down
@@hcr-motorworks awesome I just found it I’m getting it for sure I’m gonna start my project next weekend , what product did you add at the end you mentioned for texture ?
@@Maxmgm212. its the raptor liner undercoating. That should be in links in the description, let me know if its not and ill fix it!
I used around 2 kits if i remember correctly to do the whole undercarriage.
Looks awesome, but why didn’t you just have the bottom blasted? Would have saved a ton of time.
I go over the decision process for stripping this way vs blasting in another video. Basically wanted to replicate what others could have available to them in their shop/garages.
What an incredible attention to details! This is a couple of steps ahead of me and this video was great. Do you suggest any other protection product beside Raptor? 3M, Dinitrol... ? Subscribing!
I just use raptor liner if its a home garage DIY type build. If your throwing a ton of money at it youll get more build thickness if you had line x or the like applied at a professional shop. But raptor liner is some pretty awesome stuff by itself and i have found no need to add any other products to it or on top of it.
Super impressive effort! I really enjoyed seeing the amount of work that went into getting the underside back to bare metal. Are there scenarios that the needle scaler works better than flap discs, wire wheels etc? I've just never seen anyone use one before :)
The scaler works the nooks and crannies way better. I use the flap disc everywhere I can and then finish up the corners and seams the scaler.
I have a question about cleaning the spray gun. Do you clean it out with a thinner or reducersin between coats?
I do not clean the gun between coats. At the end of the job I do thoroughly clean it with a quality automotive Reducer and it cleans up with ease. Haven't tried box store thinner or mineral spirits on it. The Reducer I use is Southern Polyurethanes reducer and its around 30 a gallon and works amazing. I'm sure any local paint supply shop around you carries reducer that will work in a similar manner. Thanks!
What's tmwas the first glossy black layer you put on? And what was the silicone for( guessing water sealing the body? Is it necessary?)? How did you prep the silicon for the raptor paint?
This video is a compilation of the completed project. Go check out the videos before this one to get a breakdown of the entire process with more detail and explanations.
The first layer is a 2-part epoxy primer, the tube sealant is 3m fast-n-firm seam sealer (its necessary and its most definitely NOT SILICONE, NEVER USE SILICONE as it will cause massive issues) the Seam sealer is made to be painted on and there is no prep required other than making sure its clean and free of wax and grease.
Thanks for watching!
Just curious, why did you choose Southern Polyurethanrs Epoxy Primer?
I've been using southern polyurethanes epoxy for nearly 15yrs with no ill effects, it's super user friendly and this is one company that is DIY friendly in their tech support.
Try contacting one of the big boy name brands and tell em your painting it in your garage and see how much support you get. For that reason alone I'm an SPI and TAMCO fan just based on the DIY community and customer support afforded to the home/garage/self learning DIY'ers. Your not going to get better support from any other company out their in my opinion.
That and its affordable, works very well, and is local to me. I can order by phone and have it delivered the next day in most cases. It really is amazing stuff for the home shop guys, give it a try if your on the fence.
How much do you charge???
Not nearly enough for this job thats for sure! Lol
Great example of why you should get a chassis chemical dipped to take all that gunk off, think off all the time that could have been saved and it would have been completely stripped 100%
Not many of my viewers have that kinda coin so its nice to show em how to do it via manual labor and time.
Really Impressive work! What reason did you decide to use the raptor coating? I have the body off my project and am about to start on the same process. i'm trying to decide what product to use. If you did it again would you use the same product?
Thanks for watching! In my opinion and experience, raptor liner is probably the best DIY product in the market for this kind of thing. The only other thing that would be 'better' would be taking it to the professionals and getting it linex'd or the like if you wanted a really thick build undercoating or something. But in my opinion, raptor liner provides adequate build and protection for undercoating without the need to hire it out. Its a fun project but completely is reliant on proper prep in each and every step for good results.
Would sand blasting the car have been easier? Or was this a budget way to go? I have an 87 crx si that I plan to restore, was going to have it sandblasted and painted
th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html Check out this video where I break down all the methods and why I did what I did for this project.
Sometimes the easy way isn't the best way, on your CRX, or any car body for that matter, you should not blast the body panels, engine bay, undercarriage, interior are ok as long as you hire an experienced blaster and do wet/dustless/vapor blasting...I would NEVER dry blast any sheet metal as the heat will warp and oil can everywhere and ruin it, even with an experienced guy at the nozzle.
@@hcr-motorworks that is incorrect, it will not get hot let alone warp sheet metal unless your putting the nozzle point blank right next to the metal. The only disadvantage is its messy and yes the water vapor blasting would be preferred on body panels not under carriage, the last thing you want is water entrapment right before you seam seal. I dont know what experience your opinions on sand blasting come from they are wrong i speak from experience. There is no other method other than dry ice blasting that achieve the paint bond bar none!
This is paint right? Not rubberized?
The paint is a 2 part epoxy, the undercoating is a 2 part urethane.
What primer/paint is used on the bare metal
All the information is listed in the description
@@hcr-motorworks absolute legend thank you. So epoxy. Seam sealer. Epoxy then raptor. Do you have to scotch/key the surface in between the coats. Ready fpr the raptor?
@sabz_bhp not if it's within the 7 days cure time window. I usually give 24-48hrs between sets to ensure adequate flash times but not full cure. If you go beyond the 7 days of epoxy curing before you get a chance to top coat it then yes you'll need to scuff it before the next coat.
Just curious how many bottles of raptor liner did you use ? Wanting to do the under side of my car but cant figure out exactly how much ill need
I bought two 4 bottle kits so 8 bottles total and it was enough to do the entire undercarriage as you saw in this video as well as the front inner fenders and frame supports on this video th-cam.com/video/pKn3Mt2SWfY/w-d-xo.html
Use the Amazon links in the description if your going to buy a kit or two as it greatly helps out the channel and my ability to do these projects! Thanks for watching
Hi. Do you think Upol Raptor is better than regular blackson? Thank you
I'd say that if your going to use something other than raptor liner it needs to come in a two-part system. A base and a catalyst, or activator of some kind. Anything that comes in a tub, bucket, pail, container etc that is one part or "ready to spray" right off the store shelf is not going to work near as good as the raptor liner.
Thanks for watching!
@@hcr-motorworks Thanks ! Maybe I will use it for my miata undercarriage, Upol also sells special epoxy primer for raptor. Expensive but hope it will last for years !
You did an amazing job
@@watai My advice would be to do exactly what i did my previous videos if you want it to last a lifetime. Strip to bare metal, clean, clean clean, and when your tired of cleaning the bare metal, clean some more. Then lay down some good two part epoxy primer (hands down Southern poly urethanes is the best stuff for the price and home shop environment) then Use a quality seam sealer (brush able or tube kind) and then Lay down another coat of epoxy once that has cured. Then and only then are you ready to add the raptor liner on the new and clean epoxy primer. Doing it this way and adhering to all the steps along the way will surely lead to a successful outcome that will last many decades. My earlier videos on the undercarriage lay out everything in detail. ENJOY!
@@hcr-motorworks Not questioning your methods. Just asking. Don't you have to scuff the epoxy for the liner to grab? Or apply it wet on wet?
@@AdrianMontana I apply the 2-3 coats of epoxy to the prepped bare metal and let that dry overnight. Next day I do the seam sealer and let that dry up overnight, day 3 I throw another coat of epoxy over the seam sealer and give it another overnight drying cycle and then on day 4 do the raptor liner WITHOUT scuffing the epoxy primer. With SPI at least, as long as your within the 7 day curing window you can topcoat without scuffing. Anything outside the 7 day window your going to have to hit it with a marron scuff pad at the very least before any additional epoxy coats or top coats are applied.
Maaan you need to consider upgrading to a sand blaster it did just hurt me the amount of effort
But appreciated ❤
Haha, i actually explained why i didn't blast it all off in a separate video. Came down to cost and ability most other garage shops would have access to.
How long did it take you?
About 40 hours for the whole process
aye bro how long would this take you without filming ? 40 hours?
Yea probably 40-60hrs to get it torn down and then stripped to this point.
Hey, can you tell the type of fabric or towel or else that you degreased the surface with? Thet blue colored fabric
Sure thing! amzn.to/3mfrKQc
Do NOT use regular blue "shop towels" these ones above are lint free. The shop towels will leave behind all kinds of trash and it will ruin your efforts!
@@hcr-motorworks That was fast. Thank you so much. This, and the video helped and gave me tips a ton! Been looking around for a full, not cut video of the process
I strive for greatness! lol I have all of the videos in the 280Z build album. Not sure which part your looking for specifically but here's all the undercarriage videos in order
1 cleaning - th-cam.com/video/LUR2cSDQxZs/w-d-xo.html
2 undercoating removal - th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html
3 metal and surface prep - th-cam.com/video/GdapVksYGFg/w-d-xo.html
4 primer - th-cam.com/video/jTz7iUK0OIc/w-d-xo.html
5 raptor liner - th-cam.com/video/omuu6Of1388/w-d-xo.html
Hope that helps!
@@hcr-motorworks I will dive into them, definetely! One other question, basically all epoxy primer is good for raptor, not just the U-pol original product made for it?
Ehh, that's a loaded question but to sum it up yes any 'polyurethane epoxy primer' No single part or 1k products, only use a 2k epoxy or something that comes with an activator and you should be good...lol I'm sure there's a ton of back and forth that people will get into with 'compatibility' issues or potential issues from mixing and matching products from different suppliers but for what its worth I have NEVER used UPOL primers, not saying its bad or wont work but I ONLY recommend two companies for paint products and that's
southern polyurethanes inc - www.southernpolyurethanes.com/
Or TAMCO paints - tamcopaint.com/
Paint and body is one of those segments of the industry that there's like some secret code and tribal knowledge and the big boys don't share information willingly so I narrowed my purchases to the two companies that I believe that go above and beyond and completely out of their way to spread information to the hobbyist, enthusiasts , home builder. That's something you will not get from any other name brand big wig corporation. Tamco and SPI have literally built their business around helping the one man shop and I can't say enough good things about them.
Why not sand blasting?
th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html
This video explains why I chose the methods and all the other methods available for most home shops
How much does a job like cost? Just wondering
Thats really tough to answer. Each job is different and requires an approach specific to the task and desired outcome...That said, most Z owners typically never pay for this type of restoration and they do it themselves because of the costs involved to get it to this level...if this was a Bugatti however...
Hey thanks for the video. Looks amazing. Did you have any issues with heat from the exhaust and the raptor liner holding up? I’ve read the max temp is 185 once applied. I’m about to undercoat and wanted to see if there were any issues with that!
I have not had any issues with it heating up or falling off. Good prep is key here though. You may have issues with it becoming soft and becoming easier to damage from road debris around the exhaust sections but it should hold up fine. If your worried about it you can always ceramic coat or wrap your exhaust where its close.
This is the video I needed. I had nearly the same plans for my evo. Only difference is I plan on blasting everything off the underbody, and plan on using white paint before doing the undercoating (also tinted white)
Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!
The secret stew here is that car did not have a single real rust area to even mention or talk about and it's probably gonna live a long time into the future. That's a totally awe inspiring screwin around doing that thing... Usually most cars have those inner rust holes and it's out of the question to totally cure the problems. This car had zero rust being garage kept since it took a shit or whatever reasons it was parked. It will live on now after that job
this one had plenty of rust, but was repaired in other videos
@@hcr-motorworks THERE CLEARLY AIN;T NOT RUST SPOT IN THAT THING NOTHING TO SPEAK OF NOT LIKE WE GET HERE IN THE POCONO MOUNTAINTS... SO STOP CHOVELING HORSE SHIT I DO THE SAME SHIT U DO... ONLY U GET BETTER PROJECTS LIKE THAT ONE. IF YA NEED SOME PICS TO SOBER YA UP GRAN A CUP OF HOT JOE OKAY AND I WILL SOBER YA UP WHAT THESE CARS LOOK LIKE HERE. DON'T LOOK LIKE THAT ONE TOP R BOTTOM SIDE... MAYBE THE CHICOMS GAVE A Y'ALL A FEW PESOS TO SAY THAT TO ME HUH?? THAT THING U GOT HAS BEEN SITTING QUIETLY IN A CLOSET FOR DECADES... I KNOW THE DIFF I WORK ON DAILY LIKE U DO
@@jamesmccaul2945 I call bullshit just like it I see it... I know set up videos... There R many diff climates in the south land... It aint what we get to fuddle with here and put back together.. Most of the shit looks like a piece of swiss cheese that comes in my shop... I just don't brag about the shit we get here... There is nothing to brag about it... That thing was in a garage for many years it was no street survivor...
Tks for watching.
Buying ANYTHING from AMAZON??? Click any of the links above and then go buy WHATEVER YOU WANT!!! The shop will earn a tiny commission from whatever you buy! It doesn't have to be the actual product on the link!
That is like a HOLY DOGSHIT JOB....
We Def support the shops that work hard here and that was some bang zoom outta this world shit on that Datsun...
thanks for watching!
You lie! There's no way you had fun ;) I'm doing the exact same thing to a Jeep YJ and I know how much effort all that stripping and preparation takes. Curious why you didn't go with sandblasting. That saves some time.
I lay out why I didn't sandblast it in this video - th-cam.com/video/P8f2Wo_zBxo/w-d-xo.html
I've done it in the past and on some other projects but it wasn't in the cards for this one, it cost a lot more money and doesn't make for as fun of a video :)
Thanks for watching and subscribing!
@@hcr-motorworks I already started that other video. I found a place locally where they have DIY sandblasting. Costs about $150/hr and I did my whole tub in an hour. There is still some sand in the crevices, but overall it got perfectly clean and was cheap. No need to worry about cleanup either!
@@johnniemo thats awesome they allow DIY blasting. Maybe post that company up for anyone else in your area to take advantage of that deal! All the blasters around here want in thr 1k range to blast a shell
@@hcr-motorworks Sure thing. It was in Calgary and they are called Consolidated Compressor. I will post a video on my channel once I get the Raptor Liner installed.
@@johnniemo Sounds great! thanks for letting everyone else know there are affordable options out there!
The cost on that must be insane...
yea its not for the faint of heart lol
@@hcr-motorworks im getting ready to do this same thing.. do you mind if i ask how much you have into material?
I'd have to have a bit more info to give an accurate number. Like how much in raptor liner or everything included to do the job like epoxy, raptor liner, cleaners, abrasives etc.
I got tired watching this. Holy crap, what a lot of work removing all the old undercoating!!!!
I'm still recovering from doing this job! haha
@@hcr-motorworks I can imagine!!!! What a tedious nightmare removing all of that old undercoating must of been!!!!!
A house I wish i had a garage with a carlift....
Best decision I ever made!
It's still going to rust under that stuff only now you won't be able to see it until it's to far gone.
Not when you properly prep the metal and use a good quality 2 part epoxy primer like I did...of course if your talking salt infected zones yea all bets are off
You could of just sprayed the raptor and skipped all that stripping and cleaning and it would of looked exactly the same.
And with no prep, it would have looked the same for about a month sure, and then start flaking off in rather rapid order.
@@hcr-motorworks mine hasn't and all I did was power wash it and let it dry. It's great for making things look a lot better than they actually are. Which confused me a little with the 280 it's so nice why hide that a good mat black would of looked so perfect and showed how nice the car is underneath.
If water gets under the liner could be bad news.
you guys would problably recieve alot more attention and subscribers if you talked over your footage, the music playing over what should be an explanation sucks fyi
And yet, its the highest viewed video on the channel the way it is. Ive got voiceovers on the rest of the build process but the completion project got the music.
@@hcr-motorworksI love finding a channel that thinks they’re better than the criticism they revive. Keep booming with your 4k. Clearly better car videos than what you got out there
@applekidn1 I don't think I'm better, I think the criticism was fair, just stated that every in depth video that made this compilation video DOES have voice-over and received like 2-300 views...this one gave no explanation of the process, has free music throughout and somehow has literally the most views on the channel...so clearly I don't know wat the algorithm or the consumer wants, that was my point.
sandblasting would have been faster
also more $$$ :)
Update please. I'd like to know if it started to chip after a year?
Has held up great! Proper prep is key though!