If you don't have the rubber stopper like in the video, take your old clutch cap and drill a hole in it for a nipple fitting, hook vacuum pump to homemade stopper with nipple and vacuum away. Most new master cylinders come with a new cap, but check your new part first beforehand. This actually worked on my 92 Gmc Sierra.
Thank you. Iv seen a bunch of people trying to stick a basket ball inflator or an angled barb into their clutch resivore and claiming it bleeds that way. Thank you this makes sense
Awww yea, this does work great on my 01 chevy cavalier 2.2 liter 5 speed manual. I just got the car back from having a new clutch installed from a local repair shop that everyone raves about, but the clutch pedal was softer than a hot bread roll fresh out of the oven, lol!! I love good sarcastic criticism in a moment like this. This really does work though. I bought my vacuum pump from autozone and it comes with a few connections that fit into the line of my resevoir. If it doesnt fit into your resevoir just change the resevoir to a different type and find a way to get it held stable under the hood and you will be good to go. I dry vacuumed my system for a couple hours just start it and let it sit and its like brand new!! Best wishes!!!
This looks like exactly the product I'm needing. I have put a TR6060 6spd from A Dodge challenger in my muscle car project and used all the factory gear. It has no bleed screw on the concentric slave cylinder and I believe there is air in the system. This I'm hoping will solve my problem! Thanks.
I noticed that the tubing leaving the slave cylinder dips down before it goes up to the master cyl. Does air get trapped in this high spot on the slave side? I have an '89 F-150 that has a high spot up on the firewall, and I was curious if this would cause problems. I don't know if this was the original routing.
what is a safe level of vacuum without damaging o rings on the cylinder, reservoir or collapsing rubber hoses? is a 28" vacuum too much with a A/C vacuum pump?
The reason that dry vacuum works, is simple air is lighter then liquid, and when you apply a vacuum you compress the liquid which forces the air upward.
Brake/hydraulic fluid does not compress (.5% @1000psi but that is negligible.) Additionally a vacuum will expand, not compress the fluid. What is happening is the little air bubbles expand and join others nearby and then eventually get big enough to overcome the density of the fluid and rise to the top. It's called "vacuum degasification."
These people have such simple yet practical solutions. 👍 Watched another of their bleed approaches - blocking the slave cylinder from expanding while doing the bleed, and this worked beautifully for me on my 03 Civic. th-cam.com/video/Vwjrh4ezwdU/w-d-xo.html I actually used a piece of 2x4 wood cut to custom length to block slave cylinder from expanding, and stuck it between the clutch fork and the car frame. Bubbles were out in no time. The only thing to remember is - remove wood before driving. LOL
What would happen if you didn't compress the slave cylinder to get the air out? Would it be possible to use the vaccum bleeder to get the air out of it that way? What if you pumped the clutch with the vaccum bleeder on there? Curious as my mustangs slave is inside the trans and it's will be a pain trying to get to the slave to try and bleed.
My 2001 ford f350 needed a new clutch, did the job myself and went ahead and replaced my slave and master, I've bled and bled and bled and I push on my clutch pedal and it slams to the firewall every time. I can't take the master back off because the actuator rod that goes from my pedal into the back of the slave will not come out after it's stuck in. I see this is an old video but if anyone has any ideas, I'd really love to hear them.
Can you please tell me the best type of bleed to do on a 1999-chevrolet-silverado 4.8V8 5SPEED? The master cylinder is all together internal is I think what you'll call them. Thanks for any help you can give me.
+perfectionclutch ok thanks, we just replaced the clutch, pressure plate, slave cyl.,master cyl.,and had the flywheel turned. The clutch is catching almost 1 inch off the floor and since we don't want to take the transmission back out is there any other way you would suggest the master is easy to get out think that would do any good to burp it and gravity bleed like some of your other vids? again thank you!
+perfectionclutch This fixed me up good, transmission is shifting great and have good pedal now too. You're tutorial vids are a great help, thanks again!
Home Depot, got mine yesterday (I needed a small one to plug the brake cylinder which I had to remove temporarily to gain access to Clutch master, but I saw these big rubber stoppers in the same section) www.homedepot.com/s/rubber%2520stopper?NCNI-5
Any tips on how to get all the air out on my 02 trans am been doing this for atleast 5 hours and still having problems. Can't get in reverse unless car is off and when stopped at a light putting it in 1st can be difficult
i have to push my cluch pedal hard to the floor to get a gear it is a kia sedona i have not long had a new cluch fitted any ideas what the problem is i took it back twice to be blead but it is still not right hard work to drive
If you don't have the rubber stopper like in the video, take your old clutch cap and drill a hole in it for a nipple fitting, hook vacuum pump to homemade stopper with nipple and vacuum away. Most new master cylinders come with a new cap, but check your new part first beforehand. This actually worked on my 92 Gmc Sierra.
Was just about to ask where to get this rubber stopper !! Thank you wil try this!
Thank you. Iv seen a bunch of people trying to stick a basket ball inflator or an angled barb into their clutch resivore and claiming it bleeds that way. Thank you this makes sense
Awww yea, this does work great on my 01 chevy cavalier 2.2 liter 5 speed manual. I just got the car back from having a new clutch installed from a local repair shop that everyone raves about, but the clutch pedal was softer than a hot bread roll fresh out of the oven, lol!! I love good sarcastic criticism in a moment like this. This really does work though. I bought my vacuum pump from autozone and it comes with a few connections that fit into the line of my resevoir. If it doesnt fit into your resevoir just change the resevoir to a different type and find a way to get it held stable under the hood and you will be good to go. I dry vacuumed my system for a couple hours just start it and let it sit and its like brand new!! Best wishes!!!
This looks like exactly the product I'm needing. I have put a TR6060 6spd from A Dodge challenger in my muscle car project and used all the factory gear. It has no bleed screw on the concentric slave cylinder and I believe there is air in the system. This I'm hoping will solve my problem! Thanks.
cool! I have that dry vacuum thingy but will have to get rubber stopper. Simple but brilliant!
I noticed that the tubing leaving the slave cylinder dips down before it goes up to the master cyl. Does air get trapped in this high spot on the slave side? I have an '89 F-150 that has a high spot up on the firewall, and I was curious if this would cause problems. I don't know if this was the original routing.
what is a safe level of vacuum without damaging o rings on the cylinder, reservoir or collapsing rubber hoses? is a 28" vacuum too much with a A/C vacuum pump?
Is that the MVA660 rubber stopper?
The reason that dry vacuum works, is simple air is lighter then liquid, and when you apply a vacuum you compress the liquid which forces the air upward.
Brake/hydraulic fluid does not compress (.5% @1000psi but that is negligible.) Additionally a vacuum will expand, not compress the fluid. What is happening is the little air bubbles expand and join others nearby and then eventually get big enough to overcome the density of the fluid and rise to the top. It's called "vacuum degasification."
very interesting/ informative ‼️
Alden Wallace
Thank you for that.
@@aldenwallace1145 exactly 👍
These people have such simple yet practical solutions. 👍 Watched another of their bleed approaches - blocking the slave cylinder from expanding while doing the bleed, and this worked beautifully for me on my 03 Civic. th-cam.com/video/Vwjrh4ezwdU/w-d-xo.html I actually used a piece of 2x4 wood cut to custom length to block slave cylinder from expanding, and stuck it between the clutch fork and the car frame. Bubbles were out in no time. The only thing to remember is - remove wood before driving. LOL
What would happen if you didn't compress the slave cylinder to get the air out? Would it be possible to use the vaccum bleeder to get the air out of it that way? What if you pumped the clutch with the vaccum bleeder on there? Curious as my mustangs slave is inside the trans and it's will be a pain trying to get to the slave to try and bleed.
Where do you buy the rubber stopper? Does it come with the bleeder kit or do you purchase it separately?
My 2001 ford f350 needed a new clutch, did the job myself and went ahead and replaced my slave and master, I've bled and bled and bled and I push on my clutch pedal and it slams to the firewall every time. I can't take the master back off because the actuator rod that goes from my pedal into the back of the slave will not come out after it's stuck in. I see this is an old video but if anyone has any ideas, I'd really love to hear them.
TY, great video.
Can you please tell me the best type of bleed to do on a 1999-chevrolet-silverado 4.8V8 5SPEED? The master cylinder is all together internal is I think what you'll call them. Thanks for any help you can give me.
+perfectionclutch ok thanks, we just replaced the clutch, pressure plate, slave cyl.,master cyl.,and had the flywheel turned. The clutch is catching almost 1 inch off the floor and since we don't want to take the transmission back out is there any other way you would suggest the master is easy to get out think that would do any good to burp it and gravity bleed like some of your other vids? again thank you!
+perfectionclutch This fixed me up good, transmission is shifting great and have good pedal now too. You're tutorial vids are a great help, thanks again!
what is the toll free number. Not listed
where can i buy or find the rubber stoper?
thanks
Home Depot, got mine yesterday (I needed a small one to plug the brake cylinder which I had to remove temporarily to gain access to Clutch master, but I saw these big rubber stoppers in the same section) www.homedepot.com/s/rubber%2520stopper?NCNI-5
Can one do this back to front via the Slave cylinder
Any tips on how to get all the air out on my 02 trans am been doing this for atleast 5 hours and still having problems. Can't get in reverse unless car is off and when stopped at a light putting it in 1st can be difficult
Maybe a bad master
i have to push my cluch pedal hard to the floor to get a gear it is a kia sedona i have not long had a new cluch fitted any ideas what the problem is i took it back twice to be blead but it is still not right hard work to drive
drive
+1 on the rubber stopper!
cool cool cool!!!
Some how