Logitech G2x/G92x motor upgrades
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ก.พ. 2022
- If you don't want to watch the whole video, here's what to buy:
2x motors - I've done both M36N-2 and 555ph 18150 and prefer the 555 in feel but the M36N is easier to find.
Heatsinks and a fan
Butane torch/soldering stuff/dremel
That's it!
M36N-2 example - www.amazon.com/Powerful-MITSU...
RS-555PH-18150 example -
heatsinks - www.amazon.com/Mirthobby-Alum...
G27 encoder wheel STL - www.thingiverse.com/thing:523...
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Rad video sir! If I wasn't so busy, I'd be doing this immediately. Fixing my 27 would get me back to more sim. Thank you!
Looks like my G27 from 2012 will still be kicking it haha. Thanks for sharing this trick
Yep! Def worth the upgrade!
Pretty neat idea, I didn't think replacing the original 555 motor with another one wouldn't make that much of a difference but I guess the original Johnson motors have weaker specs. I did roughly the same thing with my wheel but used a 775 motor instead, speed and power!
please share the motor specs you used!
RS-775PH-3848 ?
775 is the size of the brushed motor. Just get whatever quality 775 you'd like that supports the voltage draw and get the supporting gears for the shaft size of the new motor. I personally would find one with a slimmer shaft size to match the g2x motors. It'll make finding the right gears easier. If the first set you get works size-wise, then you got lucky. While you're at it, grab a higher amperage and more efficient power supply for around $40 to get higher detail. You'll have quicker motors and a quicker, more efficient, power delivery to the wheel. I personally would go to a 5 amp 24 volt psu. I've also thought about overvolting it with a higher voltage psu, but I don't have the wheel to spare, because it'll most likely fry, but it could yield good results with noticeably stronger feedback at the expense of longevity, it all depends more on the motor controller rather than the motor itself when it comes to overvolting, because the chipset was most likely designed for 24 volts to be its threshold. But if someone intermediately techy made a higher voltage plug n play chipset, theoretically you could get insanely higher feedback. Just spit balling at this point
the 775 motor has a 5mm axe, it fits the gear?
I've read that the stock board won't hold up to the 775 motor as it draws more than the 555.
My force feedback motor broke few days ago, i could not find any replacement parts for my logitech G29 and was starting to feel like i would not be able to repare it.
Thanks for this video it helped a lot :)
I love this. I'm getting back into racing with my G27 again after a couple of years not really using it. Considering a mod like this, just wondering if this helps in reducing the clunking/chattering when the wheel gets overloaded? Or is this a different mechanical limit of the wheel?
If anything, it'll probably make more noise. It's just inherent to the design. It'll never be quiet.
Very nice!!! Keep up the good work bro!!!!
God-tier work.
Hey bro great job on the motor upgrade!!! I have a question for my g29… I don’t need to get the g27 reluctor thing but u mention that I have to do something to the sensors. Could u elaborate more on that… also are the g920 same deal too? Thanks for making this video…. I’m too broke to afford a fanatec setup.. also any recommendations On the steering wheel adaptor to run real steering wheel?
The G920/G29 are the same insides from what I recall. It's just PS vs XBOX. Here's a link to my last video where I do the G920 encoder wheel th-cam.com/video/BUvvYGKQLJ8/w-d-xo.html (a bit over 9 minutes in).
0:25 "You don't have to do nothing"
🙄Sounds pathetically familiar 🤔 😕 😏
😅😅😅😅
😊BTW; brilliant video👍 😊
4:42 Who still struggling 😴😪👇
I’m a rancher and work on heavy equipment all the time, the butane torch pulling and pressing is the only part that looks easy and simple to me lol.
Naaaah. the rest is screws and some solder. If you need the 3d printed bits, just let me know, I can mail it to you.
@@protomor Highly appreciated, got a bud with a 3D printer though.
@@cmbaileytstc I feel like everyone has at least 1 friend with a 3d printer :)
@@protomor
Picture it, 40 years from now:
“Replicator, make me a direct drive sim wheel capable of 25 nm torque and a high strength plasteel replica of the steering wheel from a 1941 Cadillac. Thank you.”
*Two hours later* “International Patent police, open up, the holder of the patent on 1941 Cadillac steering wheel demands $34,000 credits or your summary execution.”
Good shit man, thanks for making the vid!
Hey man, nice work buddy!, I'm doing something similar to my g923 and I wanted to ask if u changed out any of the mosfets or capacitor? So far I just did the heatsink on all the chips and on the 2 stock motors and I also did the power source mod and cranked it to about 30v, amps draw what ever they need so I'm not really sure how much it's pulling in amps. Works very fast! But I feel like the torque is still lacking, I'd like to swap the motors aswell but I really don't want to be messing with changing out chips lol
This mod is specifically designed to not need to upgrade any of the fets. What you see in the video is all I did. Even still using the 1.75 amp power brick.
That's awesome! Do you know the specs of the new motors u put in?
@@brunosoares2916 uh not off the top of my head. If you Google them, the data sheets are the second links though.
Cool, thanks man. I think I ordered the same ones as u, but mine are apparently supposed to be used, where did u get those?
@@brunosoares2916 the m36n ones I got were used off eBay. The 555 18150 were new.
Could you do a mod tutorial video for Driving Force GT? And did you had to mod the wheel with a fan and use a different power charger?
I think the GT is only one motor but otherwise the same. I used the stock power adapter for all of it but an upgraded one wouldn't hurt at all.
Were we just shredding laps on acdfr okui buki yesterday? Just putting 2 n 2 together with the yoshi name.
Yep! I've been trying to do the d1 and fdj tracks lately. Fyi the server lets you change tracks via chat. Instructions are in the welcome message.
you can also hook a 30V PS to it, makes big difference, needs some extra cooling tho
I think any of these mods will need more cooling for sure. I should get another stock logitech unit and compare these mods against 30v.
Hi. I have 2x m36n-5e motors. Do you think i can use them on g920 ? They have nice torque, 3500 RPM on 24v. I am incompetent in this field. I don't want to fry my steering wheel.
I'd have to have one in front of me to test. I'm not sure. If you go too strong, you'll shatter the insides of the logitech unit since it's all plastic.
Wow. My G27 is old (like 7 years with thousands of hours heavy use) so much so that the gears on my motors have a very significant gap between it and the motor. I thought this was normal but not after seeing this ahaha.
👋, what size helical gears are the ones that come on the stock motor because my motor axle is too wide compared to the stock motor axle
I measured it at one point but no one sells replacement helical gears. The shaft size should work. It's the same. Just heat and press on
I’ve got a gear puller for pulling and pressing pinion gears on motors for air soft guns, I bet it would pull that gear off easily. Wasn’t a cheap tool though
I'd like to see one in action. The issue I had was that the space between the gear and the motor base was too close to get anything in between. Heat was the easiest option in all honestly. Cheap too. Plus, who doesn't like fire!
Saw it on facebook, it's insane what power it puts out, never had the time to make this upgrade, this is what I had in my mind but never saw anybody do it on TH-cam with a full rundown so after this i can do this finally, also what I wanted to ask is that you need to connect the wires to the opposite, like the positive to the negative, and the negative to the positive? Thank you!
Yea... I'm not entirely sure on WHY you need to do it. In some countries, black is positive (like house wiring) and other places red is positive. So I don't think you're actually reversing it. But also, the motors spin based on voltage given either direction so it shouldn't matter. I'm not smart enough to know why. I just know that it works lol.
@@protomor What voltage does the motors have in your setup, i'm planning to get the rs-555ph one
@@v1nnyvice factory 24v. Nothing extra
Is there some place we can still get these motors? Or is there an equivalent?
So powerful motor
Would i need to 3d print the encoder holder if im doing this on a g29? Also planning on getting the RS-555 motor since i cant find the M36N, would the encoder holder be the same?
Holder should be mostly the same. But for the g29, I think you can just glue it on. Hard to remember
can you redo this video again with on-screen inatructions please? Thank you.
@@dcars806 like subtitling or you mean a step by step? I'd love to but I don't have anymore Logitech units.
hey mate great video do you know what motors they are i cant seem to find them
The M63N link still works. the 555 I think is this: www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832499160764.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US
But double check.
please tell me why you wouldnt shave pinion down? i've broken mine and i don't really have an idea what should i take pinion from
What do you mean?
you can tell from the start up spin how much extra power it has
Nice work man. I have one question. I can't find the mabushi RS-555PH-18150 anywhere and it's quite expensive. Do you have any alternatives? For example, RS-555VC-3267
In the description he talked about the m63-n
@@youdontknowme9068 thanks but i cant find that one too 😞
@@tibijczyktv77 they're pretty hard to find and buy nowadays, even in aliexpress it's been hard to find them, but there is your best bet
Can I still change the force feedback of the wheel if I do the motor swap?
Totally!
just curious, it is possible to mix n max motors? like a RS-555PH-3255 motor and a 18150/OEM motor?
Never mix motors. even old motors and new motors of the same type. They'll fight each other and eventually kill one or both.
@@protomor figured something like that would happen lol, unfortunately i bought OEM motors, still happy my unit works tho :)
What model to choose just for replace stock broken motors?
The model is in the description
is there a link to buy the motors? cant really find 18150's
Here's one I cound quickly www.aliexpress.us/item/2251832499160764.html?gatewayAdapt=glo2usa4itemAdapt&_randl_shipto=US but anything with that designation should be roughly the same.
This is a great mod! I have one question (for now); it works on PlayStation? I think yes but i would like to know certainly before i do it. Thanks!
It doesn't change the software or anything of the unit so it will still work as factory
@@protomor Thanks a lot...any updates? Still working?
@@rocket7383 I've built about 4 of them and sold them all lol. Every one that I know of is still kicking. Some making more noise, some making less. It's all down to how mangled the gear is when you take it off.
Ah yeah i can see how PLA gears would fail. I think two possibilities, besides extracting original gear, either print them with HIPS, and you can print that on an open frame printer just fine, or better make a silicone mould and cast them from high temperature capable epoxy. I will be doing a conversion of a DFGT eventually maybe to herringbone gears maybe to belt i haven't decided yet so i've been thinking, obviously i don't really have gears to keep then.
I really would just want to find a machinist to get the gears already made. I could probably make bank selling motors with the gears already on them.
@@protomor I wonder how far the supply of motors will reach for that. M36N-2 is gone. I feel like M36N-5E is running out as well. For sure you could find a manufacturer in China who will fashion you a motor and also a gear to order? Maybe worth a talk with LDO to adapt their CL3553?
I could easily commission something for sure. Initial cost wouldn't be much. I'm just not in a position where I can ship that kind of stuff out.
@@protomor Well somebody has to know someone who offers those kinds of services for sure as well.
have you ever thought about some way of increasing the rotation range of Logitech? like 900 to idk 1200+ degrees...well I can't figure out if its even possible sorry
Impossible, the whole structure of the wheel would have to be changed with new parts and would probably involve 3D printing and etcs, but no one has done this before so you'd be on your own to even begin this crazy project
Guys. What do you think, and if, on the contrary, you push the gears apart and put a belt on top of the motor pulley and the main shaft? Keeping the gear ratio. + new motor and psu In this case, the encoder
Someone did it. I think the main issue is cost. At the amount you put into it, might as well get a direct drive.
Osha would be so proud of you!
My wife watches these so I want to emphasize the SAFETY GLASSES
You’re awesome
Hey, could you tell me the specs of the pinions? I'm thinking of getting some custom pinions made because my original pinions are NOT coming off 😂
pull the data off the STL I posted. it's close but I'm not entirely sure. Honestly, the propane torch was the only method that worked for me.
@@protomor where did you post it?
@@zilvinaskindurys6126 oh wait that's the holder. Let me see if I can find it for you
www.thingiverse.com/thing:6001067 Here you go.
@@protomor Thank you very much. 👍
How much nM do you get after?
I really have no way to measure. I'd wager under 6 though.
i have suggested the pinion puller in facebook and now i know why you said its better to use butane torch instead...hahahah
I've used a pinion puller in the past and actually wound up breaking the brass teeth. I mean you can see how quick the gear just pushed off with the torch!
whats the encoder for?????
The encoder tells the software where the wheel is in rotation.
That thing spun like crazy holy heck i'm so doing this lmfao
Once I figured it out, it was a VERY simple process. The problem is that the replacement motors are hard to come by these days.
How much torque does it put out now?
I have no idea how to measure it. But my guess is 5 to 7 nm
@protomor that's so awesome! I'm keen to do this to my G29, but I'm honestly too scared I'll bugger it up.
I have changed over the red rotary dial to a black one, so I've had it open before up to the wheel itself. I've also pulled apart the shifter to put a 3d printed spring pre-tensioner in behind the shifter spring.
And also printed out a pedal extension for the throttle.
So I've been enjoying moddind the G29 in one way or another to improve its functionality and looks.
But this feels next level! I'm keen just by looking at how fast it can now move. I feel like that is the actual main area that the g29 falls short compared to a real car, is how fast it can spin itself.
I'm keen on a CSL DD for this very reason. But then saw this.
I've only had my G29 for nearly 3 weeks as it is. But I'm already feeling it's disadvantages.
Although I feel for actual racing it's just fine, but for drifting, it just seems a bit slow and weak
@@GregoryShtevensh I would definitely recommend a DD wheel. Fanatec isn't my fav as they've failed me in the past. This motor upgrade will help but is not DD level.
@protomor unfortunately everything else seems too expensive in Australia.
The Moza R5 is an option, but I'd get less for my money.
With 700aud, I can get base, wheel, pedals, and clutch pedal, if I go CSL DD bundle plus clutch pedal
But out of curiosity, what budget DD would you recommend? 🤔 Thanks for any help ❤️
@@GregoryShtevensh fair. I love my alpha mini though
can you please somehow make a cut easy to understnad tutorial of this please or just share a text document to me, thanks :3
10:23 hahahahaha
Move over Fanatec and Moza 😂
Def not the same as a good wheel. But it helps a ton!
markiplier
Hello Jeffery, you are a smart guy and I like your videos. You are good on fixing Logitechs ;) Maybe you can help me. I have these chattering/ratteling noises coming out of my wheel and I had every little thing in my hands.I disassembled all I could, but couldn't find the issue. No teeth are broken, motors are good, as screws were tight. I have no idea and it drives me crazy. I remember that there were no such noises when the wheel was new. So there is a problem somewhere but I don't know where. I have the G27, but it is the same noises as in the video below. A bit louder and clackier maybe. th-cam.com/video/9yAt3wTq4f8/w-d-xo.html Thank you for your time and advice :)
how far have you disassembled the unit? Something has to be loose or some teeth have to be broken. Make sure the wheel is screwed into the base properly. Also make sure the geared rack on the bottom has the tensioner curved metal leaf spring installed properly.
@@protomor I disassembled everything except the 2 bearings in the housing. All screws are tightened and the leaf spring is also installed properly. I curved it a bit more for more tension. Every gear has its teeth - not 1 has gone. The big plastic one looks good and the 2 brass gears too. I tried to see something without the cover but I see nothing. There are some guys with the same problem over the years, but no one has a solution for this.
I did run it without the cover...that is what I wanted to say.
@@marcels.7226 I'd have to see pictures and video. Something is loose somewhere.
@@protomor Switched off or switched on you don't feel anything. No rattling, no noise. The force feedback is also buttery smooth. The clacking comes, for example, when you drive on concrete slabs with huge gaps like on Sebring 1966 in Assetto Corsa or GT Legends or Spa Francorchamps Historic in pCars 2. The first time I noticed it was in a 12h race with ACC on Monza while shifting through the Lesmo corners.
Stop driving in third person
cope
Stop being self centered
who care about Voltage/Curent parametres?? Right?? U think u can just put another motor? Im many years in HObby. So i tall u that not right! controller board and drivers will burn coz of that!