The mossfets are specced for 3.3A, chips used are 2 x 4951GM, 1 x 9977GM. changing PSU to a higher Amp one will result in the motors being able to deliver higher torque at any given moment.
You will not kill it, a device will not draw more current than it needs, if you power it with 5A it will not supply 5A, the device will draw the amount of current that it needs.
@@GregKuhn Let me explain it by using a jug of water, If you aren't that thirsty you will only pour a bit of water into the glass to drink, you will not always drink the entire jug, but if it is a hot day and you are very thirsty, you might drink the entire jug. Powersupplies work just like this, they only supply the amount of current that the device needs.
@@pineapplepizza5733 Thank you for clarifying. If I may, I have a follow up question, that is probrably super ignorant, as I know NOTHING about electronics. Fanatec CSL DD comes stock with 5NM through a power source of 90W. One can by the so called Boost Kit 180, which brings the torque of that wheel to 8NM through, as the name says, 180W. Why is that? How on that whell they reserved the possibilitty of improving the torque by increasing Watts?
Also , I don't wanna sound like X-Files (I want to believe), but I wonder if there's the possibility of Logitech, when designing the G29 left some room for an upgrade kit they ended up following through? I'm sorry if that's just another stupid question, but I really do appreciate you taking the time to respond, @PineApplePizza
@@GregKuhn if the g29 could draw more than 1A the original power supply would turn off for overload protection. The only way to make the g29 (or similar) draw more current (and so more power = more strength) is to increase the voltage. By doing this you may overheat the components and destroy them. You should also tear down and check each component's data sheet to be sure that it can handle the desired voltage. Probably you can go for 30v with no damage but I have not checked yet.
For anyone trying to find an adpater since the link is broken: I think depending on when you bought the G29 you get a different stock power supply. He said his is 24v/1A, but mine is 1.75A, and I've seen other people online say stock one is 1.75 too. This debunks many comments stating it can't draw more than 1A. If that's the case why is my stock supply from Logitech rated higher than 1A if they know it can't draw more than 1A? The real question what is the true maximum the motors can draw? and we can't make an assumption. They aren't rated for 1A just because the supply is 1A, you need to leave space at the top to make the hardware last more cycles. You never want to be hanging out at peak power constantly, too much heat. It's a general rule when engineering anything that you build it to handle more than you plan to actually throw at it. The same reason why car motors are detuned from factory, they leave some headroom to make it, and all the other connected components like the transmission and various pumps last longer. You turbo the car, it won't last as long, because now you're hitting that peak potential. This upgrade is basically like turboing the G29. Last example; if you play music on your tiny speakers at max, they will eventually die, if you want it louder you get bigger speakers (more watt potential) and then turn the volume down instead, they'll last way longer and be just as loud, sound cleaner too. 5A could be like the "max volume" of the G29, but we don't really know, only the designers know what the true maximum potential is. What we know is they gave us 1A or 1.75A supply, and we can assume that's not the maximum. We can hope that even at 5A there is at least a little headroom still, otherwise it's definitely going to get damaged overtime just like how speakers break when you constantly run them at max volume..... Anyway, after some digging to confirm, I think the upgrade is 24v/5A = 120 watts The connector is a 5.5 x 2.5mm It will draw dynamically, with a 5A maximum. It might not ever actually draw 5A, but if it does indeed try to, the power will be there (such as when FFB peaks/clips, or when the wheel wants to unwind really fast). With a 1.75, it can't draw more even it was possible, hence the "clipping" sensation you get when you reach the power limit of the supply. Either way you always want a little headroom so what's the hurt? If it only draws 3A max, cool, that means the powersupply won't get very hot (the motors will though, because you'll be hitting their actual max, where as, theoretically, the 1.75A stock supply leaves more headroom for them). TL:DR Will this work? YES. Will it burn out the motors faster? Also YES. If you implement a cooling upgrade alongside this upgrade the motors will probably be fine, just like if you turbo a car you likely also need to upgrade the cooling system. UPDATE: This is exactly what I got a few weeks ago, the plug fits perfectly, it doesn't get hot, and YES it spins faster, especially in Assetto Corsa compared to Automobilista 2 and EA WRC or any other game/sim I've been running. IDK the explanation for that, just how it feels to me. www.amazon.com/Adapter-100V-240V-50-60Hz-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0BJZXFZ2H/ref=sr_1_4?crid=15EB0SU9CLFI2&keywords=24+Volt+5+Amp+Power+Adapter+24V+5A+Power+Supply+Adapter+100-240V&qid=1707661494&sprefix=24+volt+5+amp+power+adapter+24v+5a+power+supply+adapter+100-240v%2Caps%2C282&sr=8-4
I just got it and haven't felt any different on forza. Will keep updating.. So as long as I don't run 100% or max ffb it should still be fine correct??
Thanks for posting this! There's a lot of posts on forums for this mod but no videos. I ordered a 6A supply and will update how it feels. I play mostly GT sport which has notoriously low feel, so maybe this will add a noticeable difference
Just did a quick test and wow it's a huge improvement. There's a little bit of extra feel on GT sport and most importantly the feedback isn't laggy anymore! You feel the car break loose instantly whereas before it felt like the car would step out and then after a delay the wheel would give you some countersteer. Much easier to control at the limit now
I’ve been using 6.5 amps on my g27 for 7 yrs now and still working great. More amps is more power but more heat. So I also put heatsinks on the motor and a blower fan on top just a year ago. More torque and more stable, also the psu is not getting hot for long use
Heres the problem: There is probably a reason why Logitech limited the amount of torque, as you may end up stripping gears or damaging something else. So if you want your G29/G923 to last better just to limit it to stock power unit.
You can put in 200A even and it won't make a difference. Technically, it is still about current draw that the motors will pull. Giving it more amps will not make it pull more if they don't require more really.
what you are saying is entirely correct. upgrading the power brick to one rated at a higher amperage will not "force" more current or therefore more power into the wheel. amperage is dictated by the power draw from your load. what people have figured out is that the g29 WILL draw more than 24W (24V*1A)in some instances IF YOU LET IT. From what ive managed to find the main boards fet would the limiting component for current at somewhere around 3.5A. don't quote me on that though im not an electrical engineer, just a schmuck with an internet connection.
@@Paintbullits good point. Perhaps they cheaped out on the PSU and at certain points the motor will draw more than the limit of the included PSU for a variety of factors. A motor’s draw will fluctuate it’s normal. Would be interesting to try it out
@@256k_ that's my guess as well. would be simple to test for anyone willing to splice an ammeter into a power brick with a higher current rating and watch what it peaks at. might try exactly that at some point if i can dig up a good ammeter for cheap somewhere.
Of course you dont feel any changes! First of all, im an electrical engeneer, so let me explain, you are absolutely wrong if you think that a power supply with more amps could give more power to your wheel motors, only in the case that you have an old power supply with less power than the wheel demands, (sorry for my english i know that sucks), so man, if you wanna give power to the logitech you need to change internal motors and to add a little electronic controller to remap or to escale the old range voltage to the new range, if you dont know anything about electricity please get a little bit more of information, this type of video sucks because it very easy to see that you dont have no idea of this and supose misinformation. Cheers
Hola, me podrias decir que sistema para utilizar en el caso que quiera cambiar el motor por uno mas potente ? Digamos que un rescalador de corriente ( que ingrese la corriente que entrega la central a un rescalador y entregue mediante una fuente la corriente que nesecita el motor nuevo)
@@LexKing96 tendría que echarle un ojo muy detenidamente, pero hay proyectos en TH-cam de gente que si llega a cambiarlos pero al final acaba encontrandose con el desafío de que más fuerza también significa más resistencia y puedes hacer polvo los dientes del engranaje.
You can upgrade the Fanatec 5NM with a new power supply that's stronger, so how does it work in that case only increasing power? Not to mention a ton of hilarious videos I've seen where people replace batteries in small children's electric cars and it increases performance 5x so why is that? And he claims that it was a noticeable upgrade?
@@joemay5the difference with fanate is that the motor is already waiting for 7.5A, but the 5nm PS only gives 3.5A. So when you upgrade you’re actually giving the power the motor expects
Thank you for the recommendation! Just got mine in the mail and after some testing, it does indeed provide a noticeable difference in the response of the wheel which helps a lot with quicker counter steering while drifting especially. It doesn't immediately become a belt driven wheel, but it is definitely an improvement and worth the small investment.
The current written on the power supply stands for the maximum current it can handle. The ffb strength is controlled by the wheel motherboard by changing the voltage on the motor. The motor has constant resistivity, the voltage cannot be changed (unless you want to fry your wheel), so the should no difference between stock and more powerful power supplies. I myself had to change my own power supply to another because I'd lost the stock one, and I noticed absolutely no difference. To be truly honest you should measure the momentum your wheel can give with two different power supplies)
I have the 5amp power supply I can guarantee that it is more powerful not sure whats happening exactly but its 100% stronger.. I've heard that logitech give a little play in the amps to protect them but they can handle more power I'm using a 5amp so I can back this up 100% try it before doubting it..
I just measured 42+ watts draw with spikes higher than that just fighting the center spring on my xbox home screen and it kept creeping up as i held it (probably from heating up and inefficiency increasing). I read somewhere that the mosfets are rated to 2Amps which would automatically make the stock 1.75amp power supply under rated and even with a 2amp you have to account for sudden spikes and how much the stock psu voltage sags under sudden spikes etc. im sure that you would benefit from at least a 2.5amp supply. Im also sure this is logitechs way of making the wheel more reliable by under powering it for preventing earlier wear and overheating when inexperienced user turn everything up to 180% and clip the hell out of it. Im pretty sure it will be fine since you are not over volting it but you have to be mind-full of clipping now because it will be able to overheat quicker since you are supplying the full current to those Fets when they demand it. I would like actual measurements on torque from the motor but im pretty sure ill be able to record higher watts using the higher amp supply during heavy use of the ffb.
@@JCCollinsRacing I ordered a 24volt 5amp supply im receiving today. Once I measure the watts its using by connecting it to my power station and doing the same center spring fighting test ill report back but im anticipating higher wattage since it was pretty much maxing out the stock PSU immediately when applying force to the wheel during centering spring mode.
I'm afraid that's NOT how it works. (Electronics is my fully qualified trade). P=IV is correct, but current (I) is not determined by the number written on the power supply. That is only stating the maximum current that power supply is rated to deliver. CURRENT is derived from Voltage and Resistance by "I=V/R". since V is a regulated = 24V; it will not change. and R = the electrical resistance (inductive reactance more specifically) of the PHYSICAL WIRE in the motors windings; it will not change. If V doesn't change, and R doesn't change then "I" DOES NOT change. The included powersupply for G920 (which is actually DC 24V @ 1.75A not 1A but it doesn't matter) will already have current overhead by design. If logitech were to provide a powersupply that was too low; then 1 of 3 things would occur: 1. an unprotected powersupply would overheat and possibly burn 2. over current protection (OCP) would kick in and the power supply will shut off entirely. 3. the power supply will hit current capacity, and since I and R cant change, then V will drop below 24V (Vdroop) and the wheel may shut off. Since a 1.75A PSU is supplied: Being a mass production consumer product, a you can "expect" that actual current requirements will be somewhere around 1A (I might measure and confirm this myself if anyone is interested) You could connect a 24V 300A PSU to this wheel and it will only ever draw the same ~1A at 24V.
@forestR1 thank you for the explanation! This illuminates things. Can you help me understand why there is a difference in the FFB? I know that a lot of people will day that it is perceived but I have tested both power supplies extensively on the same tracks and cars and there is a noticeable difference etween using the two power supplies.
@@JCCollinsRacing "perceived" is my first reaction too (with a caveat) you say a lot in this video that you don't really feel any difference. Then when you do start more feeling more hit It's AFTER you have cranked setting up way beyond what you usually run, so it's going to feel different. then going from F1 to ACC, youre still going have F1 feeling as your reference. But the caveat: YOU have the actual hands on experience here. I dont. Perhaps the included power supply is too low. I find it hard imagine logi would do that; but it's always possible. The test i think could prove one way or the other; play the SAME game, with the SAME settings using both power supplies. go back and forth a couple of times changing nothing else. If you are still sure the power supply is the difference; then maybe i should measure the current draw (will require me to pull cables apart).
@@forestR1 I don't know electronics well, but I have limited experience with a hobby motor and different batteries. I have a 2 cell lipo and a 6 cell NIMH. Both had a similar voltage. Both had similar top speed in my rc car. However, due to the nature of LIPO batteries, they can dump a LOT more amps than a NIMH can. The RC car had a significantly faster acceleration with a LIPO. I am not an electrical engineer at all. I just have a hobby grade RC car I mess around with occasionally, and thats just from my personal experience. In mine, the power source did effect the performance of the motor. But not in top speed, only acceleration. It also burnt out my brushed motor lol, but thats because it was old. Same speed controller, just switched it to LiPo mode ajnd put in a lipo battery with a similar voltage but higher amperage.
@@Sirrecalcitrant according to some of the comments here, increasing the voltage will definitely effect the FFB, if the motors are rated to handle that voltage and if the internal systems of the G29 will allow that voltage to go to the motor. I do not know the exact technical specs of what the motor is rated for, but I would assume that 30V would fry the motor and system.
There is a full motherboard in it that controls the whole system of it including power supply so it will not change a bit BUT if its asking for more power a heavier psu will help it 😊😊
I tried this and whilst the FFB did feel different I can't say it was a noticeable improvement enough to warrant other issues that could occur with overheating.
Your math is off Those motors don't draw more current than they are rated for And your voltage and amps are both changing there But only when under load If you don't have load both should read 24v or at least close to it But under heavy load weak one might measure 20v and powerful one 23v And that effects current draw because of motors resistance, inductance and capacitance So like you see it's really hard to just but it in simple math calculations when everything constantly changing
I doubt the stock power supply is running at max output so having a power supply with more current isnt going to do anything if the motor doesnt draw more than 1a
I bet the opposite, Japan over engineers a lot of their stuff, the given supply is probably well below the actual limits to increase the lifespan of the device
Hi JC, 2 questions: 1) could you please activate the HUD with the "FF" bar, where we can see the difference with the "clipping" ? 2) could you do the basics "calibration speed test" with and without the new power supply? thanks.
It won't pull the extra power, it's just not how it works, it can pull up to 5amps, you need to upgrade the power board inside the wheel. You probably want to upgrade the motors but heatsinks and a fan might be enough depending on the board you get. Going from 1.75amps to 5amps, you would feel a huge difference, your just experiencing the placebo effect.
Unfortunately that is how power draw works for linear PSUs. The nominal voltage and current may be around 24V, 1A but under heavy loading the motors can draw over the 1.75A max that the stock PSU is rated for. When this happens the voltage will sag due to limited current and it will cause the ffb to clip. I’m not making this up it’s just scientific fact of how motors and PSUs work together. So upgrading the PSU will have an effect, how noticeable it is depends on your own scenario.
Well , I can say that if you have 24v only , then 1.5A is the max current the motor will consume. Which means the power supply orignal with 1.75A is a suitable and well design , To have bigger psu in current capability is only have more margin for psu itself but won't push any more current to the motor. To increase the power of the motor , you need to increase the voltage first and base on the voltage , increase the current capability. And increase the voltage also have your own risk .
That doesn't look like my PSU at all for my G29! I got a 1 peice short cable that came with it, and I get a green light at the top - no turning calibration. Is my PS cable dead?
ICs and motors are under-used with OEM power supply, so you can use more voltages without any other upgrade. Pay attention only at temperatures and do not over 30-33V because maybe you will not able to calibrate. Actually, I'm at 30V and cooling with a 50mm fan and drill some holes on cabinet: those seems to be able to cool either ICs and motors
@@JCCollinsRacing The increase in strength is like from night to day, you have been able to verify it. but it is the least. What strikes me the most is how it represents small forces. What the steering wheel has gained is in speed and reactivity. Raising the voltage increases the speed of rotation of the motors.
I did this around a year ago worked fine until I broke the switch that selects ps3 or 4 but that was me the wheel held up fine 👍 just a heads up long stints it started getting rather hot so I cut the top out and added a usb 120mm pc fan never overheated again
@@JCCollinsRacing no it was a really easy simple quick mod. Just get a soldering iron and use the knife attachment cut out the size of your fan and silicone it in plug fan into USB & your ready to put 6 hours at a time in
Sabes muy poco de electrónica y electricidad... Un motor puede demandar amperios a lo bestia y lo que quemará será el o los mosfets de la controladora. Pero vamos... Esto lo dejaremos para el primer curso básico de electrónica
I think it could also have something to do with the play in the gears cause I can hear a subtle amount of play when you hit a big bump and my g920 has the same issue.
I searched to find out if increasing the amperage a bit would be bad for my 920G (the power supply died after a few months went to a 2amp vs 1.75amp) anyway i found your video extremely helpful thank you.
You got this wrongly. Power Supply power rating doesn’t supply more power to a motor . It is how much power the motor can suck from the PS. If the motor is rated 1A it will draw 1A. If the PS would be rated less than 1A the motor would start “suffocate “ - became hot , both motor and PS and eventually at least one of those would burn. Imagine when you would breathe trough a tube and the tube has to small diameter to draw the air into lungs comfortably you would be working very hard with your chest to draw the air and eventually you would die from lack of oxygen. Now, when you switch to larger tube , large enough to breathe comfortably you will be ok. That’s the proper PS power rating. If would go with bigger tubing it would not change anything for you - bigger PS, because you can’t take more air in your breathe than you are capable of- that’s the motor power rating. So, if Logitech engineers used a motor that is rated probably slightly lest than 1A than 1A PS is enough and 5A power will not change anything. Eventually PS with slightly higher voltage could change something but it depends on the motor. I am pretty sure that Logitech puts the cheapest components they can find so they go with slightly lower voltage PS so the motor will not overheating and lasts. There are many other issues though. PS with to low power output or to high voltage output can cause problems including fire.
its gonna be 120 watts true, but not constantly the thing it will do that the wheel will be able to pick up that much it wants, maybe the motors can run a 29watts but it cant pick up that much because the maximum is 24watts, you upgrade if you upgrade it to a 48watts power supply in this instance it will also pick up 29watts
I am planning on doing the same with my G920, the only thing I am worried about is whether is would somehow ruin the motors or any of the other components over time
@fyndssdev that's a valid concern. Before switching to the CSL DD, I used the upgraded power unit for about 8 months consistently for a few hours a day, and I did not have any issues. I just recently used my G29 for another product review (coming soon), and it still works like new. I can't guarantee that your experience will be the same, but that has been my experience.
@@JCCollinsRacing That is good to hear, but what I was more talking about around 2 years down the line, whether the motors would degrade more than just using a normal 1A PSU
Good video. I will have to give it a try. Im always looking to making my experience better while in the sim. I mean I dont have all the fancy equipment like the "Return King" that had commented earlier. Im sure he told them that each wheel he returned had a defect instead of just being honest and saying I just wanted to take it for a test drive. People like that are the ones I like beating the brakes off of. The best part is when I tell them I have $160 in my whole setup. $99 used G29, free PC, $20 mouse and keyboard combo, $20 for material used on "rig", and $20 for a headset. You really should try Iracing. Theres promos everywhere for 3 month subs for less than $10. I am 1 week away from my 1 year mark and I am on usually daily. Im about to check out your other videos. New sub for sure.
@Haterbilt I truly appreciate the sub! Sounds like you have mad skills with the G29! I will have to look into the deals for iRacing. The sub fees are the main thing holding me back at this time, but I am definitely going to take the leap and try it out in 2022. Thanks again for the sub and welcome to the channel!
hi, JC, just sub after watching the quality and interest in your videos. I'm from France and don't know why you don't have more suscribers. Keep the good work
I'm from EU but the IEC cable on the replacement PSU looks sus. Like they require that these cables be capable of carrying 16A here because the next fuse is in the PSU, and you want them not to start a fire in case of a fault, so those cables come out thicc. This does not look very thicc to me. In contrast 2 pin mains cables must only be able to carry 3A so they can come out thinner. I have seen PSUs which ship with out-of-spec IEC cable and then next thing always tempted to look inside the PSU and usually find things that are... scary. Like, i don't even care about the IEC cable per se, it's just an early indication that perhaps the whole package should not be trusted. Get your PSUs from a trusted supplier. People's lives are at stake. That's going to be manufacturers like Meanwell, CUI, Edac, XP Power and Phihong, maybe Delta and Lite-On, you're probably going to pay upwards of $60 for either if you demand 5A, in turn they are guaranteed not going to kill you or start a fire. 3.75A come in at a much less painful $40. And absolutely no Amazon, due to fakes. Of course that's not gonna happen because well affiliate links. WISH??? YOU HAVE TO BE BLOODY KIDDING ME!!!! Also your "science" section... where would the current go? Because the motor you can think of it as resistive in nature for the purposes of Ohm's law. While its resistance isn't truly constant over time, in any given situation (combination of input voltage and mechanical resistance, and prior state) it is repeatable. So there exists a certain consumed current that will never ever be exceeded by a motor at a given supply voltage. Your substitution where you eliminate voltage is misleading. The reason uprated PSU can be sensible is because the OEM PSU might be so borderline that it can actually buckle in voltage whenever the current peaks. The spec voltage on the PSU is only the nominal voltage at low load, it doesn't take the effective equivalent series resistance of the PSU's output circuits into account, and a voltage drop occurs across this circuit section, detracting from the voltage available at the load. I also wonder how well people can remember and compare their sensory experiences from force feedback, especially given it's never quite the same situation every time, and i'm going to bet, 99% of the time the performance is going to be the same, as Logitech would have used reasonable engineering principles when selecting their PSU. You might have heard, there has been endless amount of research about audio - that people imagine they hear differences when they don't, simply because they have primed themselves with an expectation. A blind test may be called for, where a second experimenter uses a good randomness source to select one or another PSU and plug it in, and then you would have to try to tell which PSU is running.
This is all very good feedback! Thank you so much for your insight and for watching the video! I learned a lot from the many comments in this thread, and this one definitely adds to my limited knowledge of electrical engineering. A great comment! Thanks again.
They might have used 1A to reduce the wear and tear and increase the lifespan though. Always hitting max capability of the hardware decreases the number of cycles you can run...same reason why DD have 10+ NM but then they tell you run it at 50%, it's never intended to use all 10nm.
@@JCCollinsRacing a bit of an update...i received the power supply and definitely i can feel the wheel becomes smoother and the ffb was very spot on...i mainly play AC drifting and the counter steering now becomes faster and not over-powered....i cant thank you enough for the video you posted.
@sam I honestly can't speak to the warranty, and to my experience, the wheel has been functioning fine. I am sure the wheel can be damaged if the Amps are too high, but at 5A, it hasn't shown any symptoms of being too high.
@Kyle Hoh the heating is very minor. I have raced with the upgraded unit for a few hours straight and did not feel any noticeable difference in heat from the original power unit.
@Asher Judd 1. I do not have an exact answer with if the motor will burn out faster or not. From the experience that I have had, I have not felt any difference in temperature, but that is my experience and I would say to do this mod at your own risk. I am not responsible, nor do I know for sure the ultimate outcome or timeframe/cycles for it to reach that time frame. 2. This mod does not affect the compatibility for console as the power the wheel receives does not directly communicate or rely on the console that it is connected to. The G29 is only compatible with PC and PS3/PS4. If you want it for XBOX, you would need to get the G920 or G923. I hope this helps! 😁
@@JCCollinsRacing I conversed with a professional electrician and according to him increasing amps does not increase the chance of damaging the motors but increasing voltage will
@@JCCollinsRacing its when I torn it on it conects but dont recalibrait and the light on top starts blinking but the botuns work and thats why I think its just dont have inofe power
@@Drango0 yes it will help probably your power supply is burned like mine. i ordered 24V power supply with 2.7A and work better than original (power supply for LED strips for outdoor use) it will cost me 16$
@Lil Gengar I can't answer that for sure. I have very little experience with drifting in Sims. From experience, I can say that this will not provide "heavier" ffb. Instead, it delivers smoother, more detailed ffb.
This is a great video, I'm going through the same predicament trying to get a new psu for my g29 since I believe the psu is dead. My question is what are the best/safer Wattage alternatives I can go with? If I get anything more than 42w will it not cripple the wheel?
@Slay MoneyFX I do not foresee 42W destroying your wheel provided that your voltage remains stock (24V in the U.S.). In my video, I was using a 5A power unit at 24V, which produced an output of 120W. The G29 was working perfectly fine while I was still using it at the time.
@@JCCollinsRacing Appreciate it sir 🙏 I'll be getting a new psu tomorrow. By the way love the content, you and your wife make a great team. Love how she supports you with your sim racing 🏁, you guys remind me of me and my wife 🙏 stay blessed 🙏.
@Joale Paradisi sorry to hear that. Do you have the "Wish" app? It should go through without having the app, but I would suggest downloading and trying the app if you are trying the link on your phone, or mobile device.
@@joaleparadisi2358 gotcha! I am not sure where you are in the world, but the unit I have is a 24 volt unit. But, I am not sure if this standard across all of the units. I hope that this helps!
no any wheel still wont work since the motor uses about 0.5 amps and its combine both making 1 amps and also if u use 5 amps it will only take 1 amp to the battery so the 4 amps left is useless.
yes its not rocket science man. give it more power its going to perform better BUT, depending on the amount of power your increasing it will directly relate to how long before your motors OR curcuit board burns out. If your only increasing it a little then it probably still last long ass time but it will eventually butn it out.
I dont reccomend doing it. Max thing that the wheel can handle is 3a before you unintentionally burn the motor. What you can do is a belt conversion :)
@W4RG4 does your power unit have a power indicator light? If so, is it lighting up when plugged in (trivial question, but just want to cover all of the basics)...
Many people said that changing amps doesn't do anything but your reactions say otherwise. Does changing power supplies actually work or were these fake reactions?
@toshka3514 the reactions were genuine. Although I am not the expert behind the math and science of how it works with the G29, I can say that I felt a difference in FFB. Your experience could vary. If you decide to try it let us know what you think.
@@JCCollinsRacing I appreciate your honesty. This is something I will definitely try when my G29 gets delivered and set up. I will let you know sometime in the future! Keep making videos, I absolutely love the quality!
@@JCCollinsRacing OOO Dude! You gotta set up lut for Assetto Corsa, makes the G29 so beast. Look it up on youtube, there's lot of vids, and it's so worth it. I think your MOD + LUT = Poor Mans DD, cause LUT alone already made it feel smooth and powerful. It's really a non negiotable for G29, it's that good man. It's basically a custom response/power curve, there are some online you can download and experiment with, or you can use a program to make you own
Putting on a bigger power supply, that capable to supplying more amps will not increase the amps to the motor on its own. The motors control the power and the amps not the power supply. If Thier as been a increase in power on the wheel it could only happen if the motors were restricted by the 1 amp power supply some how. Increasing the power supply amps to 5A will not in theory increase the power at the wheel by 5 times, by theory the power at the wheel will stay the same. If the power supply voltage was increased that would increase the power at the motors by would most likely burnout the motors. How the DD1 wheels work with a bigger power supply must be done as part of the manufacturing.
@kenshinesca it's holding up well! There has been no noticeable difference in heat and it has been operating very smoothly. Can't say if this will be the same for everyone who decides to use this mod, but my experience has been very good so far.
@@JCCollinsRacing sane voltage higher amperes shouldn't be an issue; jf a device cosnunes more current (I) than the supply js rated for, it'l kill your supply and can kill your device, but a device doesn't consume more current rhan jt needs. Of course there are some exceptions but this js generally the case. A power supply should always be rated higher than the device, therefore a higher current with the same voltage will not damage a device. Just be careful the voltage is right. So to sum up: a power supply can have as amps as you want, just needs to match the device. A power supply MUST have a voltage equal to the one rated on your device
@@reitzespan5762 is there a chance that Logitech setup the motors to work on higher amperage, but still put a lower amperage power supply to cut costs?
Sure it is not placebo..? If the improvement were so evident, Logitech would include a 5A PSU, which would mean minimal extra cost for a “noticeable” improvement
I'm a amateur about electricity but this mod it a upgrade...like phones charger...it killing ur battery but it faster. I think g29 cand be as a t300rs if we change motors and power unit. I'm planing to add a belt between motor and wheel. Dont know how many open one but can be possible.
@@2Blayzar I'm going to be honest with you... I kind of understood part of what you were saying but you were typing like a robot so it is a little hard for me to understand. I'm guessing English isn't your first language
@Kevin Heiter I would assume that it does. I am not 100% sure on that, but I believe that the G29 and G920 have the same hardware. The only thing that is different is the licensing that is programed into software of the G29 to identify PlayStation OS opposed to XBOX. Check the bottom of the power block, and if the Voltage = 24 V, Amps = 1A, then it should work. I am not guaranteeing that it will work, but based on those specs, I believe it will work. I have not tried it on a G920, so I cannot promise or guarantee that it will work in the same manner. I hope that this helps! Sorry that I don't have a more definite answer for you.
Thank you for the video, I did look for a link to buy it, from your channel, but I didn't find one, I just order a similar one from Amazon. I never unplug my original one, after year it stop work, my bad.
@Fred Varao thank you for watching! Yeah, I need to update the link to this unit. I have been told that the old link doesn't work anymore and that the product is not available at that link. What I will do is update the description with the specs and model number for this unit. That way, you all are not limited to only one source.
@Jason Stormont I know that this is a very late reply, but the specs are as follows: Model: YU-2405, Input: 100 - 265 VAC, 47-63 Hz Output: DC 24V, 5A Max (5000 mA) This information comes right from the back of the unit itself. I really hope that this helps and I apologize for the super late response.
@Yung Guap sorry. That link is really old. Here are the specs for the unit. I am hoping that you are able to find it in a Google search. Model: YU-2405, Input: 100 - 265 VAC, 47-63 Hz Output: DC 24V, 5A Max (5000 mA) I hope this helps!
doing research on this as a future upgrade, ive seen a few people put heatsinks on their motors, but no reports of this mod frying the ffb. i was reading on reddit the stock motors are rated to pull 4.3 amps at peak so a 5A power supply would be able to provide that with just a tad bit of overhead, from an electrical standpoint, it should be fine. there are reports of guys going up to 28 and 30 volts on the stock motors (the fets are said to be OK with this) and that seems like it can overheat / kill a motor, but at 24v all you are doing is giving them the ability to draw all they can draw. that should be safe.
I did this around a year ago worked fine until I broke the switch that selects ps3 or 4 but that was me the wheel held up fine 👍 just a heads up long stints it started getting rather hot so I cut the top out and added a usb 120mm pc fan never overheated again
my 920 has a 5a PSU on it and ive noticed no issues. the math on this is simple. if you give yer wheel a 5a PSU to draw from it peaks out at about 4.5-4.8 amps when the FFB motors are going at full strength. the chips in the wheel that power this are rated for higher than that . but it seems from others testing that anything over 5a is a waste. i can say from personal experience my wheel moves a bit quicker on calibration but otherwise feels normal. it does clip alot less when its wobbling too.
I'm a G29 user for about a year n a half already. I play on PS4 only, I can tell right of the bad that the G29 really sucks bad playing F1 series. It's just so shitty feels like the car is just hovering. Difference when you play a different game like Project Cars Grand turismo. Where the wheel FFB is way better!! I feel like those games were meant to be play with logitech wheels. In conclusion I don't think this power supply won't do much. Just looking at your video and comparing F1 with Assetto corsa where you can really notice the difference on the FFB. I really want to upgrade to a thrustmaster wheel. The G29 is just a good starting wheel but it gets boring to much tweaking to make this wheel work fine.
Definitely agree that it is an entry wheel and does feel really light in the F1 games. Upgrading to something like a Thrustmaster or CSL DD is a tremendous leap in ffb.
The mossfets are specced for 3.3A, chips used are 2 x 4951GM, 1 x 9977GM. changing PSU to a higher Amp one will result in the motors being able to deliver higher torque at any given moment.
You will not kill it, a device will not draw more current than it needs, if you power it with 5A it will not supply 5A, the device will draw the amount of current that it needs.
Would tou care to explain?
@@GregKuhn Let me explain it by using a jug of water, If you aren't that thirsty you will only pour a bit of water into the glass to drink, you will not always drink the entire jug, but if it is a hot day and you are very thirsty, you might drink the entire jug. Powersupplies work just like this, they only supply the amount of current that the device needs.
@@pineapplepizza5733 Thank you for clarifying. If I may, I have a follow up question, that is probrably super ignorant, as I know NOTHING about electronics.
Fanatec CSL DD comes stock with 5NM through a power source of 90W. One can by the so called Boost Kit 180, which brings the torque of that wheel to 8NM through, as the name says, 180W.
Why is that? How on that whell they reserved the possibilitty of improving the torque by increasing Watts?
Also , I don't wanna sound like X-Files (I want to believe), but I wonder if there's the possibility of Logitech, when designing the G29 left some room for an upgrade kit they ended up following through?
I'm sorry if that's just another stupid question, but I really do appreciate you taking the time to respond, @PineApplePizza
@@GregKuhn if the g29 could draw more than 1A the original power supply would turn off for overload protection. The only way to make the g29 (or similar) draw more current (and so more power = more strength) is to increase the voltage. By doing this you may overheat the components and destroy them. You should also tear down and check each component's data sheet to be sure that it can handle the desired voltage. Probably you can go for 30v with no damage but I have not checked yet.
For anyone trying to find an adpater since the link is broken:
I think depending on when you bought the G29 you get a different stock power supply. He said his is 24v/1A, but mine is 1.75A, and I've seen other people online say stock one is 1.75 too.
This debunks many comments stating it can't draw more than 1A. If that's the case why is my stock supply from Logitech rated higher than 1A if they know it can't draw more than 1A?
The real question what is the true maximum the motors can draw? and we can't make an assumption. They aren't rated for 1A just because the supply is 1A, you need to leave space at the top to make the hardware last more cycles. You never want to be hanging out at peak power constantly, too much heat. It's a general rule when engineering anything that you build it to handle more than you plan to actually throw at it. The same reason why car motors are detuned from factory, they leave some headroom to make it, and all the other connected components like the transmission and various pumps last longer. You turbo the car, it won't last as long, because now you're hitting that peak potential. This upgrade is basically like turboing the G29.
Last example; if you play music on your tiny speakers at max, they will eventually die, if you want it louder you get bigger speakers (more watt potential) and then turn the volume down instead, they'll last way longer and be just as loud, sound cleaner too. 5A could be like the "max volume" of the G29, but we don't really know, only the designers know what the true maximum potential is. What we know is they gave us 1A or 1.75A supply, and we can assume that's not the maximum. We can hope that even at 5A there is at least a little headroom still, otherwise it's definitely going to get damaged overtime just like how speakers break when you constantly run them at max volume.....
Anyway, after some digging to confirm, I think the upgrade is 24v/5A = 120 watts
The connector is a 5.5 x 2.5mm
It will draw dynamically, with a 5A maximum. It might not ever actually draw 5A, but if it does indeed try to, the power will be there (such as when FFB peaks/clips, or when the wheel wants to unwind really fast). With a 1.75, it can't draw more even it was possible, hence the "clipping" sensation you get when you reach the power limit of the supply. Either way you always want a little headroom so what's the hurt? If it only draws 3A max, cool, that means the powersupply won't get very hot (the motors will though, because you'll be hitting their actual max, where as, theoretically, the 1.75A stock supply leaves more headroom for them).
TL:DR
Will this work? YES.
Will it burn out the motors faster? Also YES.
If you implement a cooling upgrade alongside this upgrade the motors will probably be fine, just like if you turbo a car you likely also need to upgrade the cooling system.
UPDATE: This is exactly what I got a few weeks ago, the plug fits perfectly, it doesn't get hot, and YES it spins faster, especially in Assetto Corsa compared to Automobilista 2 and EA WRC or any other game/sim I've been running. IDK the explanation for that, just how it feels to me.
www.amazon.com/Adapter-100V-240V-50-60Hz-Converter-Transformer/dp/B0BJZXFZ2H/ref=sr_1_4?crid=15EB0SU9CLFI2&keywords=24+Volt+5+Amp+Power+Adapter+24V+5A+Power+Supply+Adapter+100-240V&qid=1707661494&sprefix=24+volt+5+amp+power+adapter+24v+5a+power+supply+adapter+100-240v%2Caps%2C282&sr=8-4
I just got it and haven't felt any different on forza. Will keep updating..
So as long as I don't run 100% or max ffb it should still be fine correct??
Thanks for posting this! There's a lot of posts on forums for this mod but no videos. I ordered a 6A supply and will update how it feels. I play mostly GT sport which has notoriously low feel, so maybe this will add a noticeable difference
Just did a quick test and wow it's a huge improvement. There's a little bit of extra feel on GT sport and most importantly the feedback isn't laggy anymore! You feel the car break loose instantly whereas before it felt like the car would step out and then after a delay the wheel would give you some countersteer. Much easier to control at the limit now
@gravity45b thank you for your update! I'm glad to hear that this mod is an improvement for you!
@@gravity45b You excited for GT7? Just picked up a G29 today, already dancing on the keyboard for mods haha! This power mod is neat!
@@JCCollinsRacing Thanks for this review brotha 😎
@@drenomix yeah I definitely am!! I might wait to get it until the PSVR2 comes out if they add VR support to it though
I’ve been using 6.5 amps on my g27 for 7 yrs now and still working great. More amps is more power but more heat. So I also put heatsinks on the motor and a blower fan on top just a year ago. More torque and more stable, also the psu is not getting hot for long use
That's awesome! How did you install heat sinks on the motors?
Heres the problem: There is probably a reason why Logitech limited the amount of torque, as you may end up stripping gears or damaging something else. So if you want your G29/G923 to last better just to limit it to stock power unit.
Seems like you would have to put an ammeter on the DC side of the power supply to see if you are getting more amps out.
You can put in 200A even and it won't make a difference. Technically, it is still about current draw that the motors will pull. Giving it more amps will not make it pull more if they don't require more really.
Lmao. Thank you. I can believe people fall for this.
If your motor is rated a a certain power, it won’t magically get better if you give it more amps.
what you are saying is entirely correct. upgrading the power brick to one rated at a higher amperage will not "force" more current or therefore more power into the wheel. amperage is dictated by the power draw from your load. what people have figured out is that the g29 WILL draw more than 24W (24V*1A)in some instances IF YOU LET IT. From what ive managed to find the main boards fet would the limiting component for current at somewhere around 3.5A. don't quote me on that though im not an electrical engineer, just a schmuck with an internet connection.
@@Paintbullits good point. Perhaps they cheaped out on the PSU and at certain points the motor will draw more than the limit of the included PSU for a variety of factors. A motor’s draw will fluctuate it’s normal. Would be interesting to try it out
@@256k_ that's my guess as well. would be simple to test for anyone willing to splice an ammeter into a power brick with a higher current rating and watch what it peaks at. might try exactly that at some point if i can dig up a good ammeter for cheap somewhere.
@@Paintbullits on my AC ammeter displays output peak cca 3,5 A :-) love strong FFB
Of course you dont feel any changes! First of all, im an electrical engeneer, so let me explain, you are absolutely wrong if you think that a power supply with more amps could give more power to your wheel motors, only in the case that you have an old power supply with less power than the wheel demands, (sorry for my english i know that sucks), so man, if you wanna give power to the logitech you need to change internal motors and to add a little electronic controller to remap or to escale the old range voltage to the new range, if you dont know anything about electricity please get a little bit more of information, this type of video sucks because it very easy to see that you dont have no idea of this and supose misinformation. Cheers
Hola, me podrias decir que sistema para utilizar en el caso que quiera cambiar el motor por uno mas potente ? Digamos que un rescalador de corriente ( que ingrese la corriente que entrega la central a un rescalador y entregue mediante una fuente la corriente que nesecita el motor nuevo)
he actually felt the difference. Only F1 couldn't give it, but when he tested ACC it was noticed
@@LexKing96 tendría que echarle un ojo muy detenidamente, pero hay proyectos en TH-cam de gente que si llega a cambiarlos pero al final acaba encontrandose con el desafío de que más fuerza también significa más resistencia y puedes hacer polvo los dientes del engranaje.
You can upgrade the Fanatec 5NM with a new power supply that's stronger, so how does it work in that case only increasing power? Not to mention a ton of hilarious videos I've seen where people replace batteries in small children's electric cars and it increases performance 5x so why is that? And he claims that it was a noticeable upgrade?
@@joemay5the difference with fanate is that the motor is already waiting for 7.5A, but the 5nm PS only gives 3.5A. So when you upgrade you’re actually giving the power the motor expects
Thank you for the recommendation! Just got mine in the mail and after some testing, it does indeed provide a noticeable difference in the response of the wheel which helps a lot with quicker counter steering while drifting especially. It doesn't immediately become a belt driven wheel, but it is definitely an improvement and worth the small investment.
@Bryan Cheah I'm glad to hear that this worked for you!
Being UK 12v 5a b ok for this?
@@ThePrescott32 you probably will need a 24volt one, lower will make it weaker. However, only go higher at your own risk, you might damage the motors.
@@bryancheah2568 no I get 24v 5a as seems b save side of it
@@ThePrescott32 I am not exactly sure about the UK... make sure that the power supply matches the voltage of your home's outlet to avoid any issues.
The current written on the power supply stands for the maximum current it can handle. The ffb strength is controlled by the wheel motherboard by changing the voltage on the motor. The motor has constant resistivity, the voltage cannot be changed (unless you want to fry your wheel), so the should no difference between stock and more powerful power supplies. I myself had to change my own power supply to another because I'd lost the stock one, and I noticed absolutely no difference. To be truly honest you should measure the momentum your wheel can give with two different power supplies)
on dfgt i felt the difference and the calibration was faster with g25 power adapter, but dfgt psu was far lower on output
I have the 5amp power supply I can guarantee that it is more powerful not sure whats happening exactly but its 100% stronger.. I've heard that logitech give a little play in the amps to protect them but they can handle more power I'm using a 5amp so I can back this up 100% try it before doubting it..
i think the only scenario where it would provide any benefit is when the motors don't get enough juice but they are weak and don't require much
I've upgraded mine since watching and I can absolutely echo everything you said. Well done bro'✌😎
@Ted Nicholl I'm glad that this works for you and that I could help! Thanks for watching!
Hi where did you get it from i tryed to find it but i could not ?
@@halo_lond_Gameing. Amazon, they're plentiful and look like a laptop adapter, they're exactly the same.
I just measured 42+ watts draw with spikes higher than that just fighting the center spring on my xbox home screen and it kept creeping up as i held it (probably from heating up and inefficiency increasing). I read somewhere that the mosfets are rated to 2Amps which would automatically make the stock 1.75amp power supply under rated and even with a 2amp you have to account for sudden spikes and how much the stock psu voltage sags under sudden spikes etc. im sure that you would benefit from at least a 2.5amp supply. Im also sure this is logitechs way of making the wheel more reliable by under powering it for preventing earlier wear and overheating when inexperienced user turn everything up to 180% and clip the hell out of it. Im pretty sure it will be fine since you are not over volting it but you have to be mind-full of clipping now because it will be able to overheat quicker since you are supplying the full current to those Fets when they demand it. I would like actual measurements on torque from the motor but im pretty sure ill be able to record higher watts using the higher amp supply during heavy use of the ffb.
@supboy666 this is great information! Thank you for sharing and for watching the video!
@@JCCollinsRacing I ordered a 24volt 5amp supply im receiving today. Once I measure the watts its using by connecting it to my power station and doing the same center spring fighting test ill report back but im anticipating higher wattage since it was pretty much maxing out the stock PSU immediately when applying force to the wheel during centering spring mode.
@@supboy666 did you forget you lazy boy (jk)
@@supboy666 update?
Love your vidz man!! One of most thorough explanation.. best!!
@Rizki Indrawan thank you!
Again great video brotha. That F1 2021 is wayyy better, you'll see. More detailed and more features. Keep it going dude.
@Damond's Assorted Topic thank youfor the feedback! I will keep it going!
I'm afraid that's NOT how it works. (Electronics is my fully qualified trade).
P=IV is correct, but current (I) is not determined by the number written on the power supply. That is only stating the maximum current that power supply is rated to deliver.
CURRENT is derived from Voltage and Resistance by "I=V/R".
since V is a regulated = 24V; it will not change.
and R = the electrical resistance (inductive reactance more specifically) of the PHYSICAL WIRE in the motors windings; it will not change.
If V doesn't change, and R doesn't change then "I" DOES NOT change.
The included powersupply for G920 (which is actually DC 24V @ 1.75A not 1A but it doesn't matter) will already have current overhead by design. If logitech were to provide a powersupply that was too low; then 1 of 3 things would occur:
1. an unprotected powersupply would overheat and possibly burn
2. over current protection (OCP) would kick in and the power supply will shut off entirely.
3. the power supply will hit current capacity, and since I and R cant change, then V will drop below 24V (Vdroop) and the wheel may shut off.
Since a 1.75A PSU is supplied: Being a mass production consumer product, a you can "expect" that actual current requirements will be somewhere around 1A (I might measure and confirm this myself if anyone is interested)
You could connect a 24V 300A PSU to this wheel and it will only ever draw the same ~1A at 24V.
@forestR1 thank you for the explanation! This illuminates things. Can you help me understand why there is a difference in the FFB? I know that a lot of people will day that it is perceived but I have tested both power supplies extensively on the same tracks and cars and there is a noticeable difference etween using the two power supplies.
@@JCCollinsRacing "perceived" is my first reaction too (with a caveat) you say a lot in this video that you don't really feel any difference. Then when you do start more feeling more hit It's AFTER you have cranked setting up way beyond what you usually run, so it's going to feel different. then going from F1 to ACC, youre still going have F1 feeling as your reference.
But the caveat: YOU have the actual hands on experience here. I dont. Perhaps the included power supply is too low. I find it hard imagine logi would do that; but it's always possible.
The test i think could prove one way or the other; play the SAME game, with the SAME settings using both power supplies. go back and forth a couple of times changing nothing else.
If you are still sure the power supply is the difference; then maybe i should measure the current draw (will require me to pull cables apart).
@@forestR1 I don't know electronics well, but I have limited experience with a hobby motor and different batteries. I have a 2 cell lipo and a 6 cell NIMH. Both had a similar voltage. Both had similar top speed in my rc car. However, due to the nature of LIPO batteries, they can dump a LOT more amps than a NIMH can. The RC car had a significantly faster acceleration with a LIPO.
I am not an electrical engineer at all. I just have a hobby grade RC car I mess around with occasionally, and thats just from my personal experience. In mine, the power source did effect the performance of the motor. But not in top speed, only acceleration. It also burnt out my brushed motor lol, but thats because it was old. Same speed controller, just switched it to LiPo mode ajnd put in a lipo battery with a similar voltage but higher amperage.
What about adding a 28 or 30 volt power supply then? Will that help the force feedback assuming it doesn't burn out?
@@Sirrecalcitrant according to some of the comments here, increasing the voltage will definitely effect the FFB, if the motors are rated to handle that voltage and if the internal systems of the G29 will allow that voltage to go to the motor. I do not know the exact technical specs of what the motor is rated for, but I would assume that 30V would fry the motor and system.
There is a full motherboard in it that controls the whole system of it including power supply so it will not change a bit BUT if its asking for more power a heavier psu will help it 😊😊
If there is any Power Protection Circuitry on the Board then it will only allow the right power past that is 1.75 amps @ 24 volt
I tried this and whilst the FFB did feel different I can't say it was a noticeable improvement enough to warrant other issues that could occur with overheating.
You need to measure power draw from the wall with an old PSU and the new one, at idle and during vibration testing.
Good stuff mate. Keep up the good work
Thank you!
I'm actually running a 8.3 Amps Power Supply by 2 years RN, so, i'm pretty satisfied
have a link to the PS your using? looking for a plug and play one so i dont have to do any soldering.
Your math is off
Those motors don't draw more current than they are rated for
And your voltage and amps are both changing there
But only when under load
If you don't have load both should read 24v or at least close to it
But under heavy load weak one might measure 20v and powerful one 23v
And that effects current draw because of motors resistance, inductance and capacitance
So like you see it's really hard to just but it in simple math calculations when everything constantly changing
@Arpeman thank you for the explanation.
I doubt the stock power supply is running at max output so having a power supply with more current isnt going to do anything if the motor doesnt draw more than 1a
I bet the opposite, Japan over engineers a lot of their stuff, the given supply is probably well below the actual limits to increase the lifespan of the device
@@meman24 you do know that Logitech is a Swiss company?
Great content brotha ! Keep it up !
@Adrian Resendiz thank you!
great video man! I mainly drift so its a much better experience than stock *edit
@Equal Equinox thank you for the feedback and for the video idea! So far, if has been a better experience for me too.
Hi JC, 2 questions: 1) could you please activate the HUD with the "FF" bar, where we can see the difference with the "clipping" ? 2) could you do the basics "calibration speed test" with and without the new power supply? thanks.
@matteo thank you for the questions. Sadly, I no longer have the G29 Wheel setup. I won't be able to do this for you. Sorry.
@@JCCollinsRacing Ok thanks anyway i Will try soon this test.
It won't pull the extra power, it's just not how it works, it can pull up to 5amps, you need to upgrade the power board inside the wheel. You probably want to upgrade the motors but heatsinks and a fan might be enough depending on the board you get. Going from 1.75amps to 5amps, you would feel a huge difference, your just experiencing the placebo effect.
Unfortunately that is how power draw works for linear PSUs. The nominal voltage and current may be around 24V, 1A but under heavy loading the motors can draw over the 1.75A max that the stock PSU is rated for. When this happens the voltage will sag due to limited current and it will cause the ffb to clip. I’m not making this up it’s just scientific fact of how motors and PSUs work together. So upgrading the PSU will have an effect, how noticeable it is depends on your own scenario.
@@luckyupyoursWhen you say "clip", do you mean the sudden jerk, then nothing and it makes a loud bang?
@@calinpetrescu9128 yeah, no more juice so it gets jerky
Love the video! Could you do a review with project cars 2 :)
Well , I can say that if you have 24v only , then 1.5A is the max current the motor will consume. Which means the power supply orignal with 1.75A is a suitable and well design , To have bigger psu in current capability is only have more margin for psu itself but won't push any more current to the motor. To increase the power of the motor , you need to increase the voltage first and base on the voltage , increase the current capability. And increase the voltage also have your own risk .
That doesn't look like my PSU at all for my G29! I got a 1 peice short cable that came with it, and I get a green light at the top - no turning calibration. Is my PS cable dead?
same shit
ICs and motors are under-used with OEM power supply, so you can use more voltages without any other upgrade.
Pay attention only at temperatures and do not over 30-33V because maybe you will not able to calibrate.
Actually, I'm at 30V and cooling with a 50mm fan and drill some holes on cabinet: those seems to be able to cool either ICs and motors
@Andrés Cremades that's pretty intense! Have you noticed a difference in FFB?
@@JCCollinsRacing The increase in strength is like from night to day, you have been able to verify it. but it is the least. What strikes me the most is how it represents small forces.
What the steering wheel has gained is in speed and reactivity. Raising the voltage increases the speed of rotation of the motors.
@Andrés Cremades I'm sure with the increased rotational speed, you get more fidelity in the ffb.
@@JCCollinsRacing Good question. And the answer is that I have no idea if the fidelity of the FFB is disrupted. I'm happy with the result.
@Andrés Cremades if you are happy with the results, then that's all that matters.
is there an update? is your motor still functioning after months of using the higher psu?
@racingdad8342 yes, it is still functioning without any issues using the higher psu. Thanks for asking!
I did this around a year ago worked fine until I broke the switch that selects ps3 or 4 but that was me the wheel held up fine 👍 just a heads up long stints it started getting rather hot so I cut the top out and added a usb 120mm pc fan never overheated again
@Stan-Chi 2017 that's a serious mod to add a fan! Was it a difficult mod?
@@JCCollinsRacing no it was a really easy simple quick mod. Just get a soldering iron and use the knife attachment cut out the size of your fan and silicone it in plug fan into USB & your ready to put 6 hours at a time in
@@JCCollinsRacing im about to do the fan mod again to my new g29 will do a how to on my channel hopefully next week 😀
@@JCCollinsRacing Fans are easy to install, grab your dremmel and get cutting! lol. I did a fan mod on my old T500, its internal fan was silly loud.
The motors inside cannot use more amps than they are mede for! so this wont work
Sabes muy poco de electrónica y electricidad... Un motor puede demandar amperios a lo bestia y lo que quemará será el o los mosfets de la controladora. Pero vamos... Esto lo dejaremos para el primer curso básico de electrónica
@@jorgea.9844 idiot. yes you can increase voltage and burn it. but it wont change the amp up, if any it will go down
can you measure the torque? should just require a spring scale and some math
I think it could also have something to do with the play in the gears cause I can hear a subtle amount of play when you hit a big bump and my g920 has the same issue.
@GreenRanger090 definitely.
I searched to find out if increasing the amperage a bit would be bad for my 920G (the power supply died after a few months went to a 2amp vs 1.75amp) anyway i found your video extremely helpful thank you.
@Jack mann thank you for watching! How has the 1.75A power supply worked out for you?
You got this wrongly. Power Supply power rating doesn’t supply more power to a motor . It is how much power the motor can suck from the PS. If the motor is rated 1A it will draw 1A. If the PS would be rated less than 1A the motor would start “suffocate “ - became hot , both motor and PS and eventually at least one of those would burn. Imagine when you would breathe trough a tube and the tube has to small diameter to draw the air into lungs comfortably you would be working very hard with your chest to draw the air and eventually you would die from lack of oxygen. Now, when you switch to larger tube , large enough to breathe comfortably you will be ok. That’s the proper PS power rating. If would go with bigger tubing it would not change anything for you - bigger PS, because you can’t take more air in your breathe than you are capable of- that’s the motor power rating. So, if Logitech engineers used a motor that is rated probably slightly lest than 1A than 1A PS is enough and 5A power will not change anything. Eventually PS with slightly higher voltage could change something but it depends on the motor. I am pretty sure that Logitech puts the cheapest components they can find so they go with slightly lower voltage PS so the motor will not overheating and lasts. There are many other issues though. PS with to low power output or to high voltage output can cause problems including fire.
so to summarize , is it good to get 5A power supply for the wheel or not?
Yeah, that's why Fanatec sells power supply upgrades for their equipment.......
@@meman24 supposedly the motors in their are already rated higher, the just under power them
its gonna be 120 watts true, but not constantly the thing it will do that the wheel will be able to pick up that much it wants, maybe the motors can run a 29watts but it cant pick up that much because the maximum is 24watts, you upgrade if you upgrade it to a 48watts power supply in this instance it will also pick up 29watts
I am planning on doing the same with my G920, the only thing I am worried about is whether is would somehow ruin the motors or any of the other components over time
@fyndssdev that's a valid concern. Before switching to the CSL DD, I used the upgraded power unit for about 8 months consistently for a few hours a day, and I did not have any issues. I just recently used my G29 for another product review (coming soon), and it still works like new. I can't guarantee that your experience will be the same, but that has been my experience.
@@JCCollinsRacing That is good to hear, but what I was more talking about around 2 years down the line, whether the motors would degrade more than just using a normal 1A PSU
@fyndssdev I am no expert in this, but in theory it will likely burn out the motors if pushed too hard for too long.
Good video. I will have to give it a try. Im always looking to making my experience better while in the sim. I mean I dont have all the fancy equipment like the "Return King" that had commented earlier. Im sure he told them that each wheel he returned had a defect instead of just being honest and saying I just wanted to take it for a test drive. People like that are the ones I like beating the brakes off of. The best part is when I tell them I have $160 in my whole setup. $99 used G29, free PC, $20 mouse and keyboard combo, $20 for material used on "rig", and $20 for a headset. You really should try Iracing. Theres promos everywhere for 3 month subs for less than $10. I am 1 week away from my 1 year mark and I am on usually daily. Im about to check out your other videos. New sub for sure.
@Haterbilt I truly appreciate the sub! Sounds like you have mad skills with the G29! I will have to look into the deals for iRacing. The sub fees are the main thing holding me back at this time, but I am definitely going to take the leap and try it out in 2022. Thanks again for the sub and welcome to the channel!
hi, JC, just sub after watching the quality and interest in your videos. I'm from France and don't know why you don't have more suscribers. Keep the good work
@Steve Denon thank you for the sub and your words of encouragement! It means a lot to me! Welcome to the channel!
Dude, have the same couch! It’s a great sofa!
@Ali Kureshi it is great! Very comfortable.
I'm from EU but the IEC cable on the replacement PSU looks sus. Like they require that these cables be capable of carrying 16A here because the next fuse is in the PSU, and you want them not to start a fire in case of a fault, so those cables come out thicc. This does not look very thicc to me. In contrast 2 pin mains cables must only be able to carry 3A so they can come out thinner. I have seen PSUs which ship with out-of-spec IEC cable and then next thing always tempted to look inside the PSU and usually find things that are... scary. Like, i don't even care about the IEC cable per se, it's just an early indication that perhaps the whole package should not be trusted. Get your PSUs from a trusted supplier. People's lives are at stake. That's going to be manufacturers like Meanwell, CUI, Edac, XP Power and Phihong, maybe Delta and Lite-On, you're probably going to pay upwards of $60 for either if you demand 5A, in turn they are guaranteed not going to kill you or start a fire. 3.75A come in at a much less painful $40. And absolutely no Amazon, due to fakes. Of course that's not gonna happen because well affiliate links.
WISH??? YOU HAVE TO BE BLOODY KIDDING ME!!!!
Also your "science" section... where would the current go? Because the motor you can think of it as resistive in nature for the purposes of Ohm's law. While its resistance isn't truly constant over time, in any given situation (combination of input voltage and mechanical resistance, and prior state) it is repeatable. So there exists a certain consumed current that will never ever be exceeded by a motor at a given supply voltage. Your substitution where you eliminate voltage is misleading. The reason uprated PSU can be sensible is because the OEM PSU might be so borderline that it can actually buckle in voltage whenever the current peaks. The spec voltage on the PSU is only the nominal voltage at low load, it doesn't take the effective equivalent series resistance of the PSU's output circuits into account, and a voltage drop occurs across this circuit section, detracting from the voltage available at the load.
I also wonder how well people can remember and compare their sensory experiences from force feedback, especially given it's never quite the same situation every time, and i'm going to bet, 99% of the time the performance is going to be the same, as Logitech would have used reasonable engineering principles when selecting their PSU. You might have heard, there has been endless amount of research about audio - that people imagine they hear differences when they don't, simply because they have primed themselves with an expectation. A blind test may be called for, where a second experimenter uses a good randomness source to select one or another PSU and plug it in, and then you would have to try to tell which PSU is running.
This is all very good feedback! Thank you so much for your insight and for watching the video! I learned a lot from the many comments in this thread, and this one definitely adds to my limited knowledge of electrical engineering. A great comment! Thanks again.
They might have used 1A to reduce the wear and tear and increase the lifespan though. Always hitting max capability of the hardware decreases the number of cycles you can run...same reason why DD have 10+ NM but then they tell you run it at 50%, it's never intended to use all 10nm.
I got a Playseat challenge and a G29, Feels like home !!!
can you find a better link, this own doesn't seem to take me to the power supply, I just need to make sure I'm buying the right one
Well, you could use 5A and configure the FFB balance to a lower rate. GOing 100% on 5A is crazy, yes.
great video...worth a sub...rocking g29 wheel as well...
@strhmh thank you for the sub!
@@JCCollinsRacing sure bro...in fact i placed an order for the power supply as soon as i finished watching your video...hope to get similar results 😁
@@JCCollinsRacing a bit of an update...i received the power supply and definitely i can feel the wheel becomes smoother and the ffb was very spot on...i mainly play AC drifting and the counter steering now becomes faster and not over-powered....i cant thank you enough for the video you posted.
@@strhmh it's moments like these that make it all worth while! I am very glad that this product is working well for you!
Crazy man
A few questions:
1. Does this end the warranty ?
2. Can this damage the wheel?
🙂
@sam I honestly can't speak to the warranty, and to my experience, the wheel has been functioning fine. I am sure the wheel can be damaged if the
Amps are too high, but at 5A, it hasn't shown any symptoms of being too high.
Ok thanks 👍🏼
no, even if you buy a 1000A psu. There is absolutely no benefits unless you increase the voltage but is risky
How's the heating for g29 after long use with the power brick mod
@Kyle Hoh the heating is very minor. I have raced with the upgraded unit for a few hours straight and did not feel any noticeable difference in heat from the original power unit.
@@JCCollinsRacing Specification:
Input: 100V-240V AC 50/60Hz
Output: DC 24V 5A
Compatible: DC 24V 5A, 4A, 3A, 2A, 2000mA, 1.5A, 1500mA, 1A, 1000mA, 0.5A, 500mA
Is this correct specification?
@Kyle Hoh yes, these are the specifications for the unit. I left a link in the description of the video of the unit that I bought. I hope this helps!
Good video
@joling0 thank you for watching!
2 major questions for me:
1. Will this mod burn up the motors ?
2. Does it cause compatibility issues with PS4 and Xbox?
@Asher Judd
1. I do not have an exact answer with if the motor will burn out faster or not. From the experience that I have had, I have not felt any difference in temperature, but that is my experience and I would say to do this mod at your own risk. I am not responsible, nor do I know for sure the ultimate outcome or timeframe/cycles for it to reach that time frame.
2. This mod does not affect the compatibility for console as the power the wheel receives does not directly communicate or rely on the console that it is connected to. The G29 is only compatible with PC and PS3/PS4. If you want it for XBOX, you would need to get the G920 or G923.
I hope this helps! 😁
@@JCCollinsRacing yes it does, thank you
@@JCCollinsRacing I conversed with a professional electrician and according to him increasing amps does not increase the chance of damaging the motors but increasing voltage will
@@asherwiggin6456 thank you for confirming that.
Will it stop the blinking problem for my g923 ps?
@artis salomijevs I am not aware of a blinking problem. Can you tell me more about it?
@@JCCollinsRacing its when I torn it on it conects but dont recalibrait and the light on top starts blinking but the botuns work and thats why I think its just dont have inofe power
@@Drango0 yes it will help probably your power supply is burned like mine. i ordered 24V power supply with 2.7A and work better than original (power supply for LED strips for outdoor use) it will cost me 16$
Those connectors for the mains in are called IEC *the new one and figure 8 connector *the original one
Have you tried it on iRacing? Ohh do you still have it running normally after this time and had no problem at all?
@Kaio RpL Moraes I do not have an iRacing subscription yet. Sorry, I have not tried it yet.
Does it increases the rotation speed of the wheel ?? Would really help with drifting
Okey thx
@d K unfortunately it does not increase the rotation speed.
Lol 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂 😂
@@DetroitMetroRetro there is no spring. it is motorised.
Would this upgrade help with the delay in drifting ?
@Lil Gengar I can't answer that for sure. I have very little experience with drifting in Sims. From experience, I can say that this will not provide "heavier" ffb. Instead, it delivers smoother, more detailed ffb.
This is a great video, I'm going through the same predicament trying to get a new psu for my g29 since I believe the psu is dead. My question is what are the best/safer Wattage alternatives I can go with?
If I get anything more than 42w will it not cripple the wheel?
@Slay MoneyFX I do not foresee 42W destroying your wheel provided that your voltage remains stock (24V in the U.S.). In my video, I was using a 5A power unit at 24V, which produced an output of 120W. The G29 was working perfectly fine while I was still using it at the time.
@@JCCollinsRacing Was it still working when you stopped using it?
@Slay MoneyFX like new!😁
@@JCCollinsRacing Appreciate it sir 🙏 I'll be getting a new psu tomorrow. By the way love the content, you and your wife make a great team. Love how she supports you with your sim racing 🏁, you guys remind me of me and my wife 🙏 stay blessed 🙏.
@Slay MoneyFX Thank you for your blessings! Blessings to you and your wife as well!
I cant open the link ,how supply i can buy for this update?
@Joale Paradisi sorry to hear that. Do you have the "Wish" app? It should go through without having the app, but I would suggest downloading and trying the app if you are trying the link on your phone, or mobile device.
@@JCCollinsRacing above all i al interested in wich Power supply Is needed,i know that you Need a 5 amps but i font now the volts.
@@joaleparadisi2358 gotcha! I am not sure where you are in the world, but the unit I have is a 24 volt unit. But, I am not sure if this standard across all of the units. I hope that this helps!
@@mistermiagi9984 Can you explain why?
Would this work with my g920? I’m guessing it would because the g920 and g29 have almost identical components.
no any wheel still wont work since the motor uses about 0.5 amps and its combine both making 1 amps and also if u use 5 amps it will only take 1 amp to the battery so the 4 amps left is useless.
😎 Cool
yes its not rocket science man. give it more power its going to perform better BUT, depending on the amount of power your increasing it will directly relate to how long before your motors OR curcuit board burns out. If your only increasing it a little then it probably still last long ass time but it will eventually butn it out.
Mosfets are not designed for such a current
I dont reccomend doing it. Max thing that the wheel can handle is 3a before you unintentionally burn the motor.
What you can do is a belt conversion :)
@Chadog I did not know that a belt conversion was possible for the G29.
I have just bought the 5A power supply and this is just not working :c
@W4RG4 does your power unit have a power indicator light? If so, is it lighting up when plugged in (trivial question, but just want to cover all of the basics)...
it shouldn't work im afraid. that's not how current works. it's a placebo.
Many people said that changing amps doesn't do anything but your reactions say otherwise. Does changing power supplies actually work or were these fake reactions?
@toshka3514 the reactions were genuine. Although I am not the expert behind the math and science of how it works with the G29, I can say that I felt a difference in FFB. Your experience could vary. If you decide to try it let us know what you think.
@@JCCollinsRacing I appreciate your honesty. This is something I will definitely try when my G29 gets delivered and set up. I will let you know sometime in the future!
Keep making videos, I absolutely love the quality!
@@toshka3514 thank you! I truly appreciate the feedback!
Given that most psu's are max efficient at around 50-60% power draw, this should make a good upgrade
do you have a current power supply link?
Totaly useless mod. The power board in the wheel doesnt allow more than 1.71A draw.
The original power supply is 1A
@@leonardocanton7863 my is 1.75A 230V eu version
have you thought about a lut setting also
@Sc33p0 no...Can you tell me what a lut setting is?
@@JCCollinsRacing OOO Dude! You gotta set up lut for Assetto Corsa, makes the G29 so beast. Look it up on youtube, there's lot of vids, and it's so worth it. I think your MOD + LUT = Poor Mans DD, cause LUT alone already made it feel smooth and powerful. It's really a non negiotable for G29, it's that good man. It's basically a custom response/power curve, there are some online you can download and experiment with, or you can use a program to make you own
@meman24 thanks for explaining this to me! I may have to give it a try to feel the difference. Sorry so late on the response.
Putting on a bigger power supply, that capable to supplying more amps will not increase the amps to the motor on its own. The motors control the power and the amps not the power supply. If Thier as been a increase in power on the wheel it could only happen if the motors were restricted by the 1 amp power supply some how. Increasing the power supply amps to 5A will not in theory increase the power at the wheel by 5 times, by theory the power at the wheel will stay the same. If the power supply voltage was increased that would increase the power at the motors by would most likely burnout the motors. How the DD1 wheels work with a bigger power supply must be done as part of the manufacturing.
Works Great
thanks
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
How is your wheel holding up with this mod?
@kenshinesca it's holding up well! There has been no noticeable difference in heat and it has been operating very smoothly. Can't say if this will be the same for everyone who decides to use this mod, but my experience has been very good so far.
@@JCCollinsRacing sane voltage higher amperes shouldn't be an issue; jf a device cosnunes more current (I) than the supply js rated for, it'l kill your supply and can kill your device, but a device doesn't consume more current rhan jt needs. Of course there are some exceptions but this js generally the case. A power supply should always be rated higher than the device, therefore a higher current with the same voltage will not damage a device. Just be careful the voltage is right.
So to sum up: a power supply can have as amps as you want, just needs to match the device.
A power supply MUST have a voltage equal to the one rated on your device
@@reitzespan5762 is there a chance that Logitech setup the motors to work on higher amperage, but still put a lower amperage power supply to cut costs?
This isn’t how electricity works I’m afraid
*me waiting after i tossed out my g29 power supply*
Sure it is not placebo..? If the improvement were so evident, Logitech would include a 5A PSU, which would mean minimal extra cost for a “noticeable” improvement
@fofocho I can't speak for Logitech's reason, but I can say that the difference is not a placebo effect.
it probably wouldn't get more profit as most people don't care about it
logitech cheaps out at whatever they can so yeah...
I'm a amateur about electricity but this mod it a upgrade...like phones charger...it killing ur battery but it faster. I think g29 cand be as a t300rs if we change motors and power unit. I'm planing to add a belt between motor and wheel. Dont know how many open one but can be possible.
@@2Blayzar I'm going to be honest with you... I kind of understood part of what you were saying but you were typing like a robot so it is a little hard for me to understand. I'm guessing English isn't your first language
Jc Collins here
Okay?
It's just like putting a cordless drill battery in a power wheels they still work but have way more power
I don't recommend changing the PS, capacitors can burn in fact, just buy a better setup
That’s not how power supplies work.
@@luckyupyours you mean it will use what it can handle right?
@@luckyupyours can you explain pls? im insterested, but im not sure to try it
This work the same on g920?
@Kevin Heiter I would assume that it does. I am not 100% sure on that, but I believe that the G29 and G920 have the same hardware. The only thing that is different is the licensing that is programed into software of the G29 to identify PlayStation OS opposed to XBOX. Check the bottom of the power block, and if the Voltage = 24 V, Amps = 1A, then it should work. I am not guaranteeing that it will work, but based on those specs, I believe it will work.
I have not tried it on a G920, so I cannot promise or guarantee that it will work in the same manner.
I hope that this helps! Sorry that I don't have a more definite answer for you.
Thank you for the video, I did look for a link to buy it, from your channel, but I didn't find one, I just order a similar one from Amazon. I never unplug my original one, after year it stop work, my bad.
@Fred Varao thank you for watching! Yeah, I need to update the link to this unit. I have been told that the old link doesn't work anymore and that the product is not available at that link. What I will do is update the description with the specs and model number for this unit. That way, you all are not limited to only one source.
Just subbed! Can you post the model info without a link that takes me to download the Wish app? I don't want to download the app.
The link is broken too. I downloaded wish and it said it was invalid
@Jason Stormont I know that this is a very late reply, but the specs are as follows:
Model: YU-2405,
Input: 100 - 265 VAC, 47-63 Hz
Output: DC 24V, 5A Max (5000 mA)
This information comes right from the back of the unit itself. I really hope that this helps and I apologize for the super late response.
@Yung Guap sorry. That link is really old. Here are the specs for the unit. I am hoping that you are able to find it in a Google search.
Model: YU-2405,
Input: 100 - 265 VAC, 47-63 Hz
Output: DC 24V, 5A Max (5000 mA)
I hope this helps!
🥰
So at this point has it done any damage to anyone's wheel. Has anyone's wheel stopped working due to this mod. Thanks
@Darren Aston my wheel still works. I have not had any overheating issues either.
doing research on this as a future upgrade, ive seen a few people put heatsinks on their motors, but no reports of this mod frying the ffb. i was reading on reddit the stock motors are rated to pull 4.3 amps at peak so a 5A power supply would be able to provide that with just a tad bit of overhead, from an electrical standpoint, it should be fine. there are reports of guys going up to 28 and 30 volts on the stock motors (the fets are said to be OK with this) and that seems like it can overheat / kill a motor, but at 24v all you are doing is giving them the ability to draw all they can draw. that should be safe.
I did this around a year ago worked fine until I broke the switch that selects ps3 or 4 but that was me the wheel held up fine 👍 just a heads up long stints it started getting rather hot so I cut the top out and added a usb 120mm pc fan never overheated again
@@setthestandardsimracing8689 thank you for the insight and tip!
my 920 has a 5a PSU on it and ive noticed no issues. the math on this is simple. if you give yer wheel a 5a PSU to draw from it peaks out at about 4.5-4.8 amps when the FFB motors are going at full strength. the chips in the wheel that power this are rated for higher than that . but it seems from others testing that anything over 5a is a waste. i can say from personal experience my wheel moves a bit quicker on calibration but otherwise feels normal. it does clip alot less when its wobbling too.
Time to go 30v and add some fans
I'm a G29 user for about a year n a half already. I play on PS4 only, I can tell right of the bad that the G29 really sucks bad playing F1 series. It's just so shitty feels like the car is just hovering. Difference when you play a different game like Project Cars Grand turismo. Where the wheel FFB is way better!! I feel like those games were meant to be play with logitech wheels. In conclusion I don't think this power supply won't do much. Just looking at your video and comparing F1 with Assetto corsa where you can really notice the difference on the FFB. I really want to upgrade to a thrustmaster wheel. The G29 is just a good starting wheel but it gets boring to much tweaking to make this wheel work fine.
Definitely agree that it is an entry wheel and does feel really light in the F1 games. Upgrading to something like a Thrustmaster or CSL DD is a tremendous leap in ffb.
I’m gonna use my 7A power
Result?
25$ for imagenery results that could fry your g29
Just simply get 30V 5A and then you will find difference.
30V will make a huge difference! Lol!
Yes 30v will make a huge difference because you will be buying the g923 or better because you burn your g29
you should've 0damper in f1 2021 than you would felt things
Just saw your video and I have now order it. But I want you to know, if my Logitech G29 brakes. I am going to sue you.
It's your G29 still alive? 😅
Like new! 😁
@@JCCollinsRacing but you said in another comment that you don't have the g29 anymore and that you couldn't show the clipping
Hamilton was wrong
sure fry the resistor for over current flow xD
That’s not how this works.
Anyone who fried their motors doin this? My original one broke somehow and gonna buy a new one. Lol
@Yomai kulathilake before switching over to Fanatec, I used this mod on my G29 for about 6 months heavily and did not experience any issues.
@@JCCollinsRacing Will do that then. Thanks
8 amps better
@PepsiMan I can imagine that it is!
Brah, bring your monitor closer !!