Yoshi's brain dump - Logitech wheel upgrades and repairs
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 มิ.ย. 2024
- Link to STL for the encoder holder: www.thingiverse.com/thing:450...
Power brick link: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...
Information about the power brick mod: boxthislap.org/g27-power-supp...
Link to my reddit post with motor information: / logitech_g27g29g920_up...
Here's another reddit post with different motors but I'm not sure it's as simple as these other motors. / logitech_g29_with_upgr...
Help fund my projects: / protomor
IG - / protomordrift - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![3DRAP LogiKIT [REVIEW] Upgrade your Logitech pedals with SUPERPOWERS!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/AKpEL4M-OJM/mqdefault.jpg)
![3DRAP LogiKIT [REVIEW] Upgrade your Logitech pedals with SUPERPOWERS!](/img/tr.png)
"Lube makes everything better" 😂
Indeed sir
This was super helpful with my rig setup, thanks!!
This is great. I am going to do the power brick mod, heatsinks for the motors + fets, and add two USB 40mm Noctua Fans in the intake. Plan is to keep the stock motors for now though. Thank you!
Why not do the motors too?
this is diabolical bro wth 😭(i love it)
I recommend teflon grease it is safe on plastic and rubber and it is like liquid bearings .
Hi :) so basically my g920 is failing on calibration and not spinning left and right all the way. I'm guessing it's something to do with the cog/slider .. you mentioned in the video about other tutorials for setting that part up? Please could you link them??
Thankyou so much in advance
I was able to do the motor swap and add some fans and the wheel works well for the most part. I tore it down and put it back together like 4 times already, always moving that plastic gear slider a little bit more to be fully centered. Even when the calibration goes well, while testing full rotation the end of the 450 degrees ends just a tiny bit early on both sides. Can't figure that out yet, but the rest, force feedback and speed is amazing.
Could be a software setting? But yea it has to be like 100% dead on or it won't work right and might damage the unit. But that would offset one side or another, not both.
I'm not really sure yet. Last time I tested, I spent a while until I was able to have it centered in a way that when you'd move the wheel, it'd end at the same spot of the slider on both sides so it should be centered well, and still on the software it appears it ends slightly before on both sides, so it might be a software issue after the swap, who knows. I'll keep trying later today, as I'm opening it again to add a knob to control the fan speeds, so we'll see.
when putting the wheel gear onto the rack there's a small dot in the middle of the rack and on the gear to help line it up
ooooh good to know. thanks!
I’m following your work with great interest, because I’m not going to be able to buy my way much above a Logitech anytime soon so learning to build is my only path to substantive upgrades. First question: Lubing the gearing seems simple. How much difference does it make and what kind of lubricant do you recommend?
Honestly, I don't think the gears need extra lubing. I did it because I wiped it off in the motor swapping process. What you see on mine is a silicone based lubricant. I forget specifics but you want that style of spray because it's safe to use around rubbers/plastics. Many other lubricants will slowly eat away at the material. you also want something thicker so it has some staying power. IIRC this lube came from a tube and not a spray. But do your research, this is just what I had lying around.
@@protomor Thank you much. Glad to hear it comes lubed from the factory.
There’s timing marks on bar gear and one on small round gear
Hey man I've seen all your videos based on the wheel modification and I have a question do you reckon I can replace only one motor from an rc car to avoid the calibration trouble and stl 3d print part
Or drill a third hole and put the rc motor there and split power from one of the already existing motors so that I have 3 in total
Awesome video! I thought I heard that you can use just the pedals and shifter by just unplugging the power brick and leaving the USB plugged in.
oh yea I think that works too but then you have the old wheel just lying around. Makes it more compact to just pull out those innards you know?
Have you ever come across an issue with the G920 where it will not power up? I have a pre owned G920 and no light comes on when plugged into the main supply. I have changed powerbrick and cable but still no power
Sometimes they won't power up until plugged into a USB slot. But if it straight up won't power up, it could be the capacitors. But no I've never come into that exact situation.
My G27 took a crap. Ended up replacing the board
I am one of those sad souls with a g29 that has full left lock upon booting or plugging in the wheel. Tried replacing the power AC adapter and open in the thing. Up to see if anything was out of alignment. But everything looks good. Some folks say it could be a combination of the motor with the hall sensor? I don't know what to do. It's just too expensive after only one year of use to just let it go and it's not under warranty now of course
Check the encoder wheel for cracks. If yours is the magnetic kind, take as much of the encoder stuff apart as you can, clean it with alcohol wipes, and put it back together.
My sensor was cracked I just tightened the mount screws and Shabam worked and calibrated perfectly
Subbed thanks
Did you find any other motors or what are the specs so I can find something similar
No but google around and see whats similar. I'm sure someone has found a better one. One of my other videos has a different motor that might be usable.
Hi can i use any motors that are the samo for this project?
Like the factory motors? Sure
I understand wanting to upgrade but if your gonna spend a extra 100 bucks just get the thrustmaster t300 or tx they are way better wheels and are quieter and smoother and stronger
"lube makes everything better"
So you added the blue heat sinks on the motors?
Yea they're generic rc car heat sinks
@@protomor how do they attach?
@@jameszanghi3564 they just clip on
@@protomor no thermal paste?
@@jameszanghi3564 you can. I was too lazy
i'm having mega trouble with my new 30 slot g27 atm i doubt you will reply to this comment but if you do i also stream and upload to youtube raly is my thing sim drifting is my thing i have the new encoder i installed it but i'm having mega issues please reply :(
If you replaced it with a different encoder wheel, it def won't work. Make sure you install the same one as what used to be in it.
cheap china stainless steel one i flipped it other side it had a scratch on it darkened it with perma black marker and now its fine yay now my shifter has a plastic plate that holds the pot on the forward back pot one side of the little prongs has snapped so i need the metal replacement one si can''t find them anywhere anymore 3 years ago i saw them somewhere iunno even what they are called .... then the last step is better pots for pedals ...@@protomor
hiya yeah thanks for the reply so i got the encoder sorted but now i need a new plyg for the potientimiter for the gear shifter the one at the back has had too much abuse i need to know what the name and size of taht plg is so i can ask about locally for one at like hardware stores and such. came soo close yet so far to sim streaming on twitch again. it's such hard work with gear like this to stram. now i know why people stream games like dota and fortnite. lol. none of this fixxing hardware headaches. btw nice video it was most helpfull up to the point of the wheel base. pedals is quite simple and str8 forward but the shifter is a nightmare. where can i get replacement pots and plugs for the pots? if only i knew the name and size of the plug? do you know by any chance please? thanks in advance@@protomor
Really plastic encoder on the g29 wow might as well get t150 myg27 broke can’t get it to work right
I mean... for manufacturing bulk, it made sense at the time.
@@protomor true but they should have learned from the g25 g27 lol
@@esmokebaby they did. Later styles are magnetic
@@protomor ya but later iam assuming you mean the g923 at that price ill just get a t300
@@esmokebaby g29 and g920 change the reluctor style mid way. So some are magnetic and some are the wheels.
Get the 923 mb
like that model to tear apart and look into? Would love to if someone has a used or dead model to send to me!
Maybe people just treat theirs badly. I have a G27 that is 7+ years old, it must have 5k or more hours on it.
There isn't even a single chip on the main orbital gear. Or any of the plastic gears for that matter.
1. They don't use the same motor in all models,
2. Upgrading PSU does NOTHING to stock wheel,
3. Adding more lube just makes it more resistant and with that amount you got there it looks like sh...
4. There is a tool to take gears from shaft,
5. Shafts are longer to work with white plastik dampers that are inside plastik housing