Well this helps me out of my 79 K10 I put 16 inch rims on it but I didn't realize the rims were against the tie rods on the front and I could not get the wheels back off I wound up snapping two of the studs one on each side trying to get them back off so I need inch and a half spacers for my new rims but I don't want to put spacers on with 5 studs and I was a little nervous to do this project never having done it before this video helped me realize that it's a piece of cake job
Glad I saw this, my 82 K2500 needs new ball joints and was having a hard time seeing everything because it was packed with grease still. Thank you for making this video.
I paused the video at 4:13 by accident. At that point I understood where my problem was. I forgot about that retainer ring. Thought it was pretty cool, 413 is my racing number. Thanks man!
The Special tool is a spanner socket and is necessary for proper preload on the bearings. The washer with holes is different on each side. if the pin lands between holes, flip it and it will align.
You hafta make sure the grease is off the face of the rotor before You put the pads on, also changing out the caliper hardware is worth the extra couple bucks if You're not on a tight budget. Nice vid.
Thank you for time and effort posting. Just picked up a GMC k1500. I suspect the caliper or bearing on the front passenger is seized. I now know what to expect when I start disassembly tomorrow.
There is no retainer screw on this hub kit, it is held in place by the large snap ring sometimes you can also fit a snap ring in the groove at the end of the axle if it protrudes enough through the hub
You generally don't want to get grease all in the locking hub. It can make the hubs difficult to engage when it's cold out. The locking hubs should be installed dry or at most a thin coat of oil on the moving parts.
Cameron channell Thanks. I'll be sure to remember that in the future. This was my first time tackling this job. No wonder I have to use pliers to lock in the hubs, lol.
I'll take mine apart, clean and spray them with white lithium grease once a year. 1986 K10 Silverado with the original auto locking hubs. Had this truck 18 years with no problems with the hubs. Nice video sir
Your right raven he be taking it a part before long it the tire and wheel don't fall off first you have to set preload on the inner nut not with punch lol
Hi Don Tinsley. I posted this video four years ago and it's still running like a champ, and it's still my daily driver. Up to 42,000 miles now. No issue.
No joke getting that stupid retainer ring out is more work than anything else haha, something I would look at in the future is your stub axle, it would just suck to have to keep replacing bearings... 80 grit emry cloth will smooth it out.... I've legitimately had to put a little tach weld on an axle shaft and smooth it out because they get so pitted and worn. But good video it brought all that information back thank you
are those stock axles do they hold up well with those tires and are they 10 bolt diffs or the 12 or 14 curious what size wheels i can run with no worries on my 90 k5 blazer its the 10 bolt diffs
If you don't torque it down appropriately it will back off, and your wheel bearing nut will back off as well, you will then have very very loose wheels, dangerous condition. Better get back in there and do it right, buy the tool, it's the only way to do it correctly/safely.
@@j45acp69 Actually you are partly correct, The inner lock ring is torqued to 50 ft lbs then backed off 1/4 turn then the lock washer followed by the outter lock ring which is torqued to 125 ft lbs
Have 84’ k10 scottsdale. Mine didn’t have the retaining screw but it had the snap ring and I was able to remove it. It just won’t come out though. I’ve put the screw back in and grabbed them trying to pull it out. I’ve even try prying a little and it won’t budge. Any suggestions?
There is no button I’ve found to upload pictures to this comment section or in a chat I started so this is the best I can explain it..I removed the 6 9/64th Allen head bolts and took the cover off. There was no bracket and retaining screw to keep things from coming out like yours showed, but nothing fell out anyways. So I just kept going and removed the snap ring that I seen. After though I could not remove the assembly. You were able to pull it out with a big set of pliers. I tried and it wouldn’t move but maybe a 1/8inch. So I got bigger pliers and knocked on the outside with a dead blow some and still nothing. Then I put two of the Allen head bolts back into the assembly and tried to pry a little and it wouldn’t budge. I then grabbed the Allen head bolts with pliers and still my locking hub assembly will not come out..is there another snap ring inside or something I’m missing??
Andres Rivas when I bought my 78 the dumbass who owned it before me had a 6 inch suspension lift and a 2inch body lift. he also put 33's on it. looked dumb as hell. it's hard to tell when you can't see the size on the tire. I just took a shot in the dark.
Why didnt you put the screw back in that you took out after you took out the retaining ring.you showed taking the screw out after you took the retaining ring
WOW! So I bet you go through Bearings! You showed how NOT to do this job! Ok Chief time to LEARN! After you repack the bearings with proper grease, the Inner lock ring gets TORQUED to 50 FT LBS, THEN BACK IT OFF 1/4 Turn! The lock washer is next making sure the pin goes through a hole in the ring followed by the OUTER lock ring that is TORQUED to 125Ft Lbs.. This is the PROPER way to repair maintain chevy front bearings..WAY too much grease on the Hub assembly Inner part you use oil and Very lightly grease out side..
I have been driving this truck going on eight years now. This was the first time bearings have ever been changed. For the past two years, i have almost 30,000 miles on these bearing with no issues. Just because there are proper ways to do things, doesn't mean they always work. This is my daily driver. And thus far, running like a champ
It's 50 ft-lb while spinning the wheel to seat the bearing. Then you back it off and torque to 35 ft-lb and back the nut off no more than 3/8 turn to line up the pin. The bearing preload nut doesn't have to be very tight. A lot of folks have done just fine by rotating the nut until the hub starts to resist turning, and then backing off. Then you use the "good and tight" standard on the lock nut. These assemblies aren't real sensitive-as long as they're not excessively loose or tight you'll be fine.
![แขกคนแรกร้านแจ๊ส [ซี - เอมมี่] | iJazzKhunJang](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XP6C9kulFfc/mqdefault.jpg)
Well this helps me out of my 79 K10 I put 16 inch rims on it but I didn't realize the rims were against the tie rods on the front and I could not get the wheels back off I wound up snapping two of the studs one on each side trying to get them back off so I need inch and a half spacers for my new rims but I don't want to put spacers on with 5 studs and I was a little nervous to do this project never having done it before this video helped me realize that it's a piece of cake job
thx this was the only vid i could find to do my rotors for my 84 k10. helped a lot
Glad I saw this, my 82 K2500 needs new ball joints and was having a hard time seeing everything because it was packed with grease still. Thank you for making this video.
Blew my mind same truck as mine down to the paint code and hands down best vid ive found on doin the rotors so far
Good stuff . You got a niche as far as I can see. Some 90s- 2000s but you got the 80s to yourself. 👍 Keep them coming!
I paused the video at 4:13 by accident. At that point I understood where my problem was. I forgot about that retainer ring. Thought it was pretty cool, 413 is my racing number. Thanks man!
The Special tool is a spanner socket and is necessary for proper preload on the bearings. The washer with holes is different on each side. if the pin lands between holes, flip it and it will align.
0000p
I know I am kinda off topic but do anyone know of a good site to stream newly released series online ?
@Cristian Pedro Flixportal :D
@Koa Alijah thank you, I signed up and it seems like a nice service :D Appreciate it!
great video. hadn't been into mine in awhile, forgot how everything went, thx man
You hafta make sure the grease is off the face of the rotor before You put the pads on, also changing out the caliper hardware is worth the extra couple bucks if You're not on a tight budget. Nice vid.
A trick to get the hub out is to take two of the allen screws that hold the cover on and thread them in a few turns, and just pull the assembly out.
Thanks, very imformative. I like your step by step.
Thank you for time and effort posting. Just picked up a GMC k1500. I suspect the caliper or bearing on the front passenger is seized. I now know what to expect when I start disassembly tomorrow.
P. Graham Good luck. Don't sweat it. Very easy to handle
Thanks. I got the hub and rotor back together in a vise.
Hey bud your video helped out thanks
thanks this looks easier than i thought. that special socket is only 20 bucks though id suggest buyying it
Dan Gentile were do u get the socket at
Good job,…. except you forgot to install the little retainer screw that holds in the hub assembly.
There is no retainer screw on this hub kit, it is held in place by the large snap ring sometimes you can also fit a snap ring in the groove at the end of the axle if it protrudes enough through the hub
Man, great video
great vid
You're a good man
awesome video
You generally don't want to get grease all in the locking hub. It can make the hubs difficult to engage when it's cold out. The locking hubs should be installed dry or at most a thin coat of oil on the moving parts.
Cameron channell Thanks. I'll be sure to remember that in the future. This was my first time tackling this job. No wonder I have to use pliers to lock in the hubs, lol.
I'll take mine apart, clean and spray them with white lithium grease once a year. 1986 K10 Silverado with the original auto locking hubs. Had this truck 18 years with no problems with the hubs. Nice video sir
Found this super useful thanks. And how did you get the studs and rotor together again?
Your right raven he be taking it a part before long it the tire and wheel don't fall off first you have to set preload on the inner nut not with punch lol
Hi Don Tinsley.
I posted this video four years ago and it's still running like a champ, and it's still my daily driver. Up to 42,000 miles now. No issue.
@@lfwilk3 That's Right! 🤘🤠🍻
Legend
Nice truck! What size lift and tires? How it hold up with them axles.
No joke getting that stupid retainer ring out is more work than anything else haha, something I would look at in the future is your stub axle, it would just suck to have to keep replacing bearings... 80 grit emry cloth will smooth it out.... I've legitimately had to put a little tach weld on an axle shaft and smooth it out because they get so pitted and worn. But good video it brought all that information back thank you
That grease on the rotors is going to give him some real trouble.
DelDelincuentes No troubles yet, been six months.
@@lfwilk3 wipe down with BRAKEKLEEN???????????????
are those stock axles do they hold up well with those tires and are they 10 bolt diffs or the 12 or 14
curious what size wheels i can run with no worries on my 90 k5 blazer its the 10 bolt diffs
Yes they are stock axles. Haven't had any issues to date. I've been driving it around for about 5 years now. No problems.
What do u call that part u pulled out after u took the star screw out ?
Do you have any trouble with the u joint breaking? Nice rig
Star Dust Ranch never had any trouble yet. They have never been replaced
You forgot the keeper screw after you put the retainer ring in.
Is this the same as to changing them out on a ‘73 K10?
Did you torque those two locking nuts? You didn't mention it or show it...
strandymusic , no I didn't torque them. I just hammered them back on with a punch and hammer.
If you don't torque it down appropriately it will back off, and your wheel bearing nut will back off as well, you will then have very very loose wheels, dangerous condition. Better get back in there and do it right, buy the tool, it's the only way to do it correctly/safely.
@@j45acp69 Actually you are partly correct, The inner lock ring is torqued to 50 ft lbs then backed off 1/4 turn then the lock washer followed by the outter lock ring which is torqued to 125 ft lbs
Have 84’ k10 scottsdale. Mine didn’t have the retaining screw but it had the snap ring and I was able to remove it. It just won’t come out though. I’ve put the screw back in and grabbed them trying to pull it out. I’ve even try prying a little and it won’t budge. Any suggestions?
Send me some pics. Maybe i can assist
lfwilk3 I started a chat
I am unsure of you statement.
" it had the snap ring, and I was able to remove it, but it won't come out?"
If it is removed, it is out already?
There is no button I’ve found to upload pictures to this comment section or in a chat I started so this is the best I can explain it..I removed the 6 9/64th Allen head bolts and took the cover off. There was no bracket and retaining screw to keep things from coming out like yours showed, but nothing fell out anyways. So I just kept going and removed the snap ring that I seen. After though I could not remove the assembly. You were able to pull it out with a big set of pliers. I tried and it wouldn’t move but maybe a 1/8inch. So I got bigger pliers and knocked on the outside with a dead blow some and still nothing. Then I put two of the Allen head bolts back into the assembly and tried to pry a little and it wouldn’t budge. I then grabbed the Allen head bolts with pliers and still my locking hub assembly will not come out..is there another snap ring inside or something I’m missing??
Mine has that snap ring also around the end of the stub shaft... did u ever get it off
how did you get the rotor off
Right. That’s what I wanted to see.
Great job!! I need to get one stud any part number ???
Did you find part number for stud?
@@cody9463 yes
What about that little screw that holds the retainer.?
was it rocking because of a bad bearing?
SNIPERSCOTTIE , yes it was.
lfwilk3 thanks a bunch mine is doing same thing
You forgot the little screw before you put on the hub at the end
I didn't see you grease the bearings
Big tires for a 10 bolt
Been going on 8 years now with no problems at all
@@lfwilk3 so they are the 10 bolts
@@NeBoFoRiOn yes they are ten bolt
HOW TALL ARE THOSE TIRES ON YOUR TRUCK ???? THANKS
they look like 33's
no way those are 33s on a truck like that. at least 37s
Andres Rivas when I bought my 78 the dumbass who owned it before me had a 6 inch suspension lift and a 2inch body lift. he also put 33's on it. looked dumb as hell. it's hard to tell when you can't see the size on the tire. I just took a shot in the dark.
actually they are 44 super swampers tsl
YOUR TRUCK REAR AXLE IS A GM 10 OR 12 BOLT ????? THANKS
Yo should never push brake fluid back into the system. Open the bleeder and let it drain.
Why didnt you put the screw back in that you took out after you took out the retaining ring.you showed taking the screw out after you took the retaining ring
If you watch closely, I never took it out, just removed the whole unit.
Thought you should not grease the locking hubs?
Westchestergun30 what size gears are in there
WOW! So I bet you go through Bearings! You showed how NOT to do this job! Ok Chief time to LEARN! After you repack the bearings with proper grease, the Inner lock ring gets TORQUED to 50 FT LBS, THEN BACK IT OFF 1/4 Turn! The lock washer is next making sure the pin goes through a hole in the ring followed by the OUTER lock ring that is TORQUED to 125Ft Lbs.. This is the PROPER way to repair maintain chevy front bearings..WAY too much grease on the Hub assembly Inner part you use oil and Very lightly grease out side..
I have been driving this truck going on eight years now. This was the first time bearings have ever been changed. For the past two years, i have almost 30,000 miles on these bearing with no issues. Just because there are proper ways to do things, doesn't mean they always work. This is my daily driver. And thus far, running like a champ
Hi Raven.
Up to 42,000 miles now.
Still no issues, and still my daily driver.
It's 50 ft-lb while spinning the wheel to seat the bearing. Then you back it off and torque to 35 ft-lb and back the nut off no more than 3/8 turn to line up the pin. The bearing preload nut doesn't have to be very tight. A lot of folks have done just fine by rotating the nut until the hub starts to resist turning, and then backing off. Then you use the "good and tight" standard on the lock nut. These assemblies aren't real sensitive-as long as they're not excessively loose or tight you'll be fine.