Auto to Manual Locking Hubs, Plus Bearings on a Squarebody Chevy - Vortex Garage Ep. 22
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2016
- In this video we go over the full details for installing a new set of Warn hubs on a 1985 K10 Chevy pickup. While installing new hubs, we also go through replacement of the inner and outer bearings, races, and back seal. The swap to manual locking hubs is popular, replacing weaker stock (and usually broken) auto-locking hubs.
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Still a great video. For anyone else that was collecting part numbers like I was, I found the inner bearing and race is Timken SET82 (LM104949 - JLM104910) combo if you didn't want to track down individually, just like the SET45 outer bearing/race kit. I hope that helps someone!
Great video, but the thing you forgot, and alot of people don't do is when you got the rotor off take the backing plate off and pull the spindle sleeve off and there is a needle bearings in the back of the spindle sleeve. These need cleaned on greased. Alot of folks don't do that or even know about it. Then what could happen is they dry out and start to put a groove on your axle and could snap your axle in worse case. Just letting you know .thanks
Currently watching this video again as I now have everything ready to go this morning
How’d yours go for you? I think I’m gonna mine here in a week or so.
I wish all the how to videos on TH-cam were this good. 😉👍🏻👍🏻
I followed this video today to change my hubs out. This video is OUTSTANDING. He goes step - by - step on how to do this & literally leaves NOTHING out. I was able to do mine with no issues whatsoever. This video from Vortex is where it’s at. Two thumbs way up. 👍🏻👍🏻
Great video. Just a suggestion though include the part numbers in the description for convenient reference do appreciate the beginning showing each part and part number.
Timken Seal 471271
Timken Set 45 Outer bearing and Race (LM501310 & LM501349)
Timken Inner Bearing LM104949
Timken Inner Race JLM104910
Dustin i have a question
@@destinfernandez2187 sure what's up
Do you know what would cause a thuding noise from front axel? Im replacing the wheel bearings right now but i think it might be the front drive shaft u joints because the wheel bearings look good and the u joints that connect the axel to the outer stub feels like its ok
@@destinfernandez2187 I am no expert but it sounds like it could be the front driveshaft u-joints. Generally there is slop in the driveshaft moving it by hand while its in gear the u-joints are an issue. I know my when my rear u-joints got pretty bad they would clunk pretty good. I am sure the internet has better way of checking them.
Anybody got a part number for the seal behind the inner bearing
I like how you didn’t edit everything and you pointed out every little thing. Learned a lot thanks!
What a great video... Thank you so much for showing step-by-step on changing out the hubs and bearings.
Thank you so much for this highly detailed video. You do an amazing job! Please keep the Squarebody Chevy videos coming.
This was an excellent guide to change my 4x4 Suburban's front wheel bearings. Thank you very much!
Best bearing swap vid I've seen yet! Guess what my next weekend project is... thanks Vortex Garage!
What an Excellent how to video. I cant wait to do this job on my new old GMC truck I bought.
Outstanding video! Thanks for making this. Very helpful. I'm doing this this weekend. I wasn't going to do the bearings, but after watching this, I'm feeling a lot more confident about it. Not as bad as I thought it was. Subscribed.
Love this video and good info added. just what I needed to get my project done. THANKS!
Very nice job. This was by far one of the most complete and informative videos I've seen regarding these hubs. Two thumbs up!!!
I just watched this video and finished my Dana 44 build on my 78 Scottsdale 4x4. This video was instrumental in figuring out the outer bearing and lock nut install. I installed my Mile Marker hubs and it when in flawlessly. I so appreciate this!! MK
Man I cannot thank you enough for doing this super detailed video on this procedure. There is so much in valuable information that you have packed in here that a lot of other TH-camrs don’t bother to include. I am so glad the allocated your video. Now if I could find one that you did on replacing the ball joints on these trucks, that would be just fantastic!! 😁😁😁👍🏻👍🏻
I'm also glad I found this video! I've had my 'ol 82 since high school & it's finally time for brakes lol 😂 so figured I'd hit the bearings while I have them apart. Never done this, but other videos are terrible & skip so much of the process "assuming you know" what the heck you're looking at. I also wish this fella would have more videos on detailed repairs of the 'ol squares. Just subscribed to this channel, excited to see what else he's got 💪
Great video. I couldn’t explain it better myself.... when I was younger I thought it was such a hard job but I did it and it was really easy.... my 80 has its factory spiced hubs on the Dana 44.....
Excellent! I was looking for such a great video. Bravo.
great demonstration I really learned a lot from your void thanks
Fantastic video! I'm very comfortable now swapping and doing the full service based on this great narrative.
great video. I did this replacement years ago without the video.
my warn hub may have gone out. this is a great refresher
The best video I have found thanks !👍🏼
Outstanding video! Thanks for making this. Very helpful.
Was very helpful. Thought we were doing something wrong on an ‘83 K-5 Blazer with the spindle not sticking out enough. Didn’t have trouble with ‘87-88 Blazers. Appreciate you pointing out the differences in year models. 👍🇺🇸
Vortext garage you are the man. I swear if I ever meet you, I am going to buy you a beer. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Great thoroughness, thank you so much!
Very good video! This has definitely helped me better understand exactly what I need to do to replace my bearing!
Awesome, glad it was helpful!
Good Video. Your snap ring pliers look universal. If you change the position of the pivot screw you should be able to reverse them so you can squeeze them to open a snap ring.
I was about to say the same thing
Yeah me too, also that was less than 3/8, that you backed off,good job thou! Im gonna get some of those hubs? How much are they? I got a 1975 Chevy Cheyenne K10 4x4?
Instead of adding any lube to the outside of the race you can throw it in the freezer for about an hour before doing the job and it will go in really easy then as it warms back to room temp it will seat really nice in place. Great video
Best video on TH-cam! Very well done.
I have an 89 1500 Suburban and have started to do some work on it myself,I have had so called mechanics work on it or said they did with miserable results and extra money leaving my pocket for nothing, I am extremely nervous about working on the truck but with the video so well explained I will do it myself,thank you for your time.
FYI, if you just need to remove the hub assembly you do not need to remove the first retaining ring you removed and pop up the big spring. You just have to remove the bridge (keeper) and the retainer with the needle nose pliers and voilà! :-D
The best video showing how to do this. Thank you and great job!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you great video,I'm glad you didn't do much editing,It's better just doing what you did thanks again👍👍👍
Hi Anthony Aguilar, I am also Anthony Aguilar lol. Small world, what rig are you driving?
Great video, I need to do this on my Dana 60 front axle. It's pretty much the same procedure.
Yes thanks dude. Good job this has helped with my 83 K5 👏
Holy shit. Maybe for others like him that want to change the hubs for as he said extra strength or shit like less wear and tear.
How about the most important Reason please!!! They are Reliable. If you don’t understand or you disagree whatever, You’ll change your mind when the auto locking fails when you need it.
Thanks for the detailed video.
Great video. I've seen others and I understand it more
Thanks for listing part numbers
Just what i needed to know pretty much
Excellent! Thank you! 74 K5 Blazer
Very useful video, I'm about to do that job. By the way, there was a retainer ring on the axle, you actually fought with it at around 13:13 :)
I noticed when you backed off the bearing adjuster nut the second time you didn't back it off enough. You backed it 90 degrees the first time which is 1/4 turn back. But when you backed it off after 35 lbs you were suppose to go 3/8 but didn't even go a 1/4 turn. 3/8 is more than a 1/4 turn on my tape measure.
And when did the big spring go in?
At least you know people are paying attention, eh.
GREAT JOB I've subscribed
Love the video
Best video awesome job
I'm unsure what you filmed this with. But the quality of the video is crazy good! Super helpful video. Need to do bearings in my '82 K10 this week. In Maine. In the door yard haha 😂 not too much fun lol. But surely watchin this video is helping a ton, as well as I took notes on all the part numbers for the bearings, seals, & races. Thank you!!
I'm glad this video is still helpful to folks. Lots of good comments on it too with other tips and tricks from others. I wish I hadn't sold that truck with how square body prices are now! Good luck on yours
PS. I think back then I was using a point and shoot camera with zoom and it had really good macro. Again glad it's still helpful!
@@VortexGarageThis video was super helpful! I appreciate it!
Very good video ,
Awesome video hairy armed man. I’m going to ditch my auto hubs .
Awesome video, thank you. The first nut in front on the outer bearing behind my first washer is not a spindle nut, there are no grooves to fix a socket onto? Its just a perfect circle and has to holes across from each other on the front side, does anyone know what kind of tool I would use to get that out? Thank you
I like it when a common Joe do this a good handyman can do this
Torque for axle nuts:
Inner: 50 ft-lb while turning hub back and forth, back off 90 degrees. Then 35 ft-lbs while turning hub, back off about 1/4 turn. Install washer with holes and adjust nut until it's peg goes into a washer hole.
Outer: 190 ft-lbs.
Very good!
the way I've always packed bearings is to pack it in from the bottom until it squeezes out the top. do that all the way around and you can be sure it's fully packed.
I would be curious to have a ballpark idea what this costs in parts. Good thorough video.
Word of wisdom from my experience: if buy an old truck check these as soon as possible. Most of mine have loose locking axle nuts...scary.
How true. I just checked mine and the locking nut was only finger tight.
Thanks for this video. Quick question when you mount the inner wheel bearing seal do you just tap it in until flush to the back of the rotor or do you go in a little deeper?
I was told flush
Amazing
Thanks for a detailed explanation and video. You gave the part numbers for the bearings. What is the part number on the seals?
Move your snap ring pliers over to the other hole so when you squeeze them the jaws open not close.
So if the inner spindle nut or either spindle nut isn't tight enough, will that leave you with less room to work with? My pickup is an 83 gmc and i'm replacing the lockouts which were manual already. But i can't get the new ones to slide in far enough to get the outer ring to seat properly.
I cant speak for the room but, if they arent tight enough, you may develop a wobble in the hubs.
Which hub manual was use for this job. Thanks
Thank-you for the video. The OSB Ford is very similar. BTW, that is not how to pack bearings by hand.
Excellent video, VG. Is the procedure for replacing manuals with better manuals the same as going from auto to manual, as you're demonstrating here? I just traded my pickkup to my son-in-law for his 1/981 Jeep CJ-7 with a Dana 30 front axle. My problem with the Jeep is that sometime in the past, someone put different manufacturers manuals on the thing. Off brand ones. I want to put a pair of Warn heavy=duty manuals on because I really like the Warns. I've had them on a couple of trucks in the distant past and LIKED them. I will also replace all of the bearings and seals while at it. I plan to supervise my son and let him do the job. I'm teaching him how to do mechanic work, house plumbing & electrical work so he can be self=sufficient. He's not a young'un, but is in his late 30s and a very fast learner. This is something I've not done before so I'll be learning, too. Thanks for all you're doing and have a Blessed Day.
Did the 87 Silverado k10 come with auto hubs from factory ?
Gracias ❤❤❤❤
Grease rags are getting pricey. I generally use old newspapers or packing paper to wipe most of the grease off with first. Times are tough these days. Good video Sir.
What's a newspaper? 😄
Do you have to put the spindle nuts and the locking ring in inorder for the hubs to work
How are you getting the inner spindle nut off? Mine just spins and spins and spins, moving the entire axle with it and not getting and looser.
doesn't look like a 10 bolt to me
remember growing up, you could spot a mechanic by his hands, permanently stained from all the grease and oil in every pour. Gloves have made that part of the job a lot nicer.
A few minutes in the freezer for the races and a few minutes on the hub with a heat gun and the races almost fall in. Then expand and they’re home.
I didn't read all the comments/questions/snarky remarks/ jokes or concerns. I was under the impression that there was a collar in the transfer case that had to be switched from a solid to a split collar. Plus the locking hubs. I've got a '79 Chev 1/2 ton/auto, 205 transfer case. To go to 4WD, I put the tranny in neutral, move the transfer case to desired location and switch back into gear. Just so I'm clear, it's possible to put JUST locking hubs in and achieve the goal? Or is there more too it? Also, If I'm just going from full time to locking hubs, can I just stop at the outer nut? Or do I need to do bearings and seals? I get that it's good to start with new components and guts, but as a first timer, this would be an all day project for me. GREAT video. Thanks.
Certain GM applications do not require the spindle nuts. Those are the same hubs I took off my truck and I didn't require them. But if your on a budget check with your local 4X4 shop for what applications require them
I did not see you put the spring back? Is that because manual locking hubs do not need the springs? Great video by the way. I have a 1989 K5 that I am going to replace the front rotors and this video helped immensely.
I have a 79 K10 full time, can i just install the lockouts or do i need to do the mods to the transfer case as well? its an NP203
What size is the spindle nut socket? @vortex garage im about to start mine this weekend. Great video!
I don't think the holes change when the washer with holes is flipped over. There's only one tab so when it's turned over so it's still the same hole orientation.
Hey on your lock ring plyers that lillle bolt you can unscrew it and put in other hole so you can sqeeze the plyers instead of pulling plyers apart
where do you get the factory manual directions that you mentioned ,like step by step and illustrated parts break down ?
Haynes manual. They are sold by most auto parts store or on line.
Do you have to replace those races on the rotor? Or you have to replace them if you go from automatic to manual hubs?
That's my question exactly. If I'm just going from full time to locking hubs, can I just stop at the outer nut? Or do I need to do bearings and seals?
@@MNJay1 you don't have to do anything with the bearing but it's good to at least check to see if they are still ok
Is this video in regards to doing this install on a GM 10-bolt axle? Thank you so much.
Did you not put the snap ring back on after the locking nut?
Hi, I don't want to start an online argument about full time vs part time 4x4, and I apologize if your video already covered this. It was a very long video, and I easily could have missed it if you already answered this question. If a person wanted to go from part time to full time 4x4, how difficult would it be to remove the manual locking hubs and go to a flat look like on the back wheels? I have a k5 blazer, not a k10 truck like in the video, if that matters.
I’ll sell you the np203 transfer case lol
Me to
Great video! Would this be the same set up for a 74 K5?
in the back of the spindle theres a very important needle axel shaft bearing which needs servicing every vtime you pack the wheel bearings !!!
otherwise a pretty good video
I didn't see you reinstall the washer and snap ring back on, is that an issue?
He showed that there wasn't room on the pinion to reinstall them. He consulted the paperwork from Warn and they said it was okay if there wasn't room
I replaced my locking hubs with full time drive slugs for strength, no moving parts is the way to go for me
Only drawback is more drivetrain wear over time
@@johnjames4593 very true, but im a low milage kinda guy anyway, i have a prius that the company i work for provides and i ruin that thing with lots of miles
What size was that socket
What wheel bearing using
How are those latex gloves working for you? Great video/info!
Fantastic vid.
All this parts fits my 1982 k10?
The timken part number for the inner bearings and race kit is - set37
Depends on the year / front end. Mine was different
I have a 1976 k10 the original locking hub has springs inside. will these warn locking hubs work on mine?
Did u get an answer im going thur the Samething on my 78 blazer
The pre 81 trucks used np203 or np 205 transfer cases. These cases need a part time kit installed in the case to use manual lock out hubs . It consists of removing the tail shaft and replacing the planetary gears. If you unlock the hubs without the kit installed the internal differential in the case will not allow any power to the rear wheels and the truck won't move without being put into 4 wd
What size spindle socket do I need?
How on God's green earth were you able to prevent the socket from slipping off the locking nut while torquing it to 160 lbs. ?????
I don't know how far to drive in that outer seal?
49:39 sounds like a bomb went off in the distance