I took everything apart like a champ and had no clue how to out it back together even though I took a couple pics. A few other vids didn't explain as good as he does. Very efficient at explaining!
LOL I just did my front and rear brakes BEFORE watching this. Have a '74 K5. Some things I saw here that would have made it easier. But overall it's not a difficult job. I had to hammer my studs out, and I pulled them back in using a spare lug nut and a couple washers, with my impact gun. Good video.
If you want to torque your bearing nuts: Torque the inner nut to 50 ft lbs while rotating the hub, then loosen the nut, torque to 35 ft lbs. Next back off the nut about 3/8" or a little less and tighten to the nearest hole in the lockwasher. Install the outer locknut and tighten to 80 ft lbs. These torque specs are far a 1980 k20 truck.
Thank you for this video! I replaced all the brake components on my 1980 Chevy K20 27 years ago and I'm doing again now. I thought I'd remember how to do everything but I don't remember how to do the front hubs and it's not in my GM manuals.
Just did bearings because a caliper was locked up. Figured I was halfway there. Wish the last guy had watched your vid before he monkeyed around. Got everything good to go now. Thanks again.
Depends on what your are planning to build. Is it necessary, not at all.... but the cool factor can't be argued with. For us the money is probably better spent elsewhere though.
I wish you would have done this on a 10 bolt as i have one in my 79 K10 they are a little different as i found when taking mine apart. Not many videos on this style.
Great video, thanks! Bought new calipers for my Wagoneer with a Dana 44; put on the new caliper and new pads, it was a super tight fit and now my rotors won’t turn. Almost certain the piston is all the way in on these remanned calipers. Any thoughts on what could be causing it or anything I should check.
Wrong calipers maybe? We'd definitely suggest you pull the calipers off again and make sure the pistons are retracted all the way. Take the lid off the master and make sure it isn't overflowing. it's possible there's too much fluid in there and the calipers won't retract all the way.
At 21:00 you talked about how to adjust the spin of your rotor...that locknut.. it has that tiny stem that fits into one of the holes of the washer ..how do you get that to fit and also lining up that protrusion?
I think your point is that the first nut has a pin which must be on the outside so that it can engage in one of the holes in the washer. Odds are that it won't land on any hole first time, so try pulling the washer out and reinsert it the other side first. If the nut pin still does not land in a hole you have to turn the nut a few degrees and try again. It can take time. The video missed this important locking feature.
Its possible that the installer didn't align the pin correctly on the spacers which can let the bearing nut tighten up or back off. Either one of those things could cause drag.
Love the "TH-cam Certified Master Technician" arm patch. Another great video, keep em' coming!
I took everything apart like a champ and had no clue how to out it back together even though I took a couple pics. A few other vids didn't explain as good as he does. Very efficient at explaining!
You are the best at explaining things. I had never done a 4x4 brake job. So now I’m confident I can do this with ease.
Amazing. One of the best mechanic videos I've ever seen. Thank you.
Our pleasure, thanks for your feedback!
Thank you for these videos. They’re so helpful when you need a refresher.
Restoring a 68 chevy 4x4 now. Nice to watch these videos and get some refreshers.
Thank you Dave for the front disc on the 4wd. Awesome info there!
Our pleasure!
Awesome! How to video.. I been watching dave Welch videos for years. Nice! To see him on brothers
Thanks for watching!
Thank you for absolutely convincing me to get rid of the drum brakes! 😀
Our pleasure!
You took a selfie instead of rear drum lmao 😆 great video though, exactly what I’ve been workin on on my truck
You got us... but at least we know you were paying close attention!
Hey that selfie apparently showed him how he forgot a spring at the end.
*Stares at balloons on lock screen*
LOL I just did my front and rear brakes BEFORE watching this. Have a '74 K5. Some things I saw here that would have made it easier. But overall it's not a difficult job. I had to hammer my studs out, and I pulled them back in using a spare lug nut and a couple washers, with my impact gun. Good video.
Great tips for someone who doesn't have a press!
A good video, and a great place to get Chevy truck parts (1974 Blazer K5)
If you want to torque your bearing nuts: Torque the inner nut to 50 ft lbs while rotating the hub, then loosen the nut, torque to 35 ft lbs. Next back off the nut about 3/8" or a little less and tighten to the nearest hole in the lockwasher. Install the outer locknut and tighten to 80 ft lbs. These torque specs are far a 1980 k20 truck.
Thanks for showing us all this! Great refresher for me since it's been awhile!
best video I've ever seen very knowledgeable thank you
Thanks for watching!
Alright Dave's back with some longer videos.
Very informative video. Thank you for sharing. Just subscribed
Thank you for this video! I replaced all the brake components on my 1980 Chevy K20 27 years ago and I'm doing again now. I thought I'd remember how to do everything but I don't remember how to do the front hubs and it's not in my GM manuals.
Great video. Very informative. Thank you!
Great video. Thank for the tutorial
Our pleasure!
Great advice, well spoken and presented. Thanks brothers.
Thanks for watching!
Just did bearings because a caliper was locked up. Figured I was halfway there. Wish the last guy had watched your vid before he monkeyed around. Got everything good to go now. Thanks again.
Every time the video cuts I imagine him cussing and throwing tools
Hahaha, that happens!
Or having the minimum wage apprentice finish that portion
Man I just bought myself an 85 K10 and I have to say your videos are an absolute blessing. I’m considering a rear disc conversion, thoughts?
Depends on what your are planning to build. Is it necessary, not at all.... but the cool factor can't be argued with. For us the money is probably better spent elsewhere though.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV i agree the money is better spent elsewhere. I will reiterate these videos are a definite blessing. Very informative vids.
I wish you could of showed us how to change the seal inside the front axle tube. My passenger side is leaking. Thanks Dave, awesome video
Great video
Thanks!
Thanks for all the content you put out here. Have you ever rebuilt a 1956 chevy truck electric wiper motor. My park position wont work.
Thank,
Mike
We've never rebuilt one, we typically just replace them with a more modern conversion the gives you multiple speeds.
Thanks Dave
Our pleasure!
I wish you would have done this on a 10 bolt as i have one in my 79 K10 they are a little different as i found when taking mine apart. Not many videos on this style.
👍👍👍GREAT VIDEO I MIGHT NEED TO DO THIS ALSO
Get after it!
Should i order the bearings as well since i have to get into that area anyways while replacing the brakes and rotors?
Great video, thanks! Bought new calipers for my Wagoneer with a Dana 44; put on the new caliper and new pads, it was a super tight fit and now my rotors won’t turn. Almost certain the piston is all the way in on these remanned calipers. Any thoughts on what could be causing it or anything I should check.
Wrong calipers maybe? We'd definitely suggest you pull the calipers off again and make sure the pistons are retracted all the way. Take the lid off the master and make sure it isn't overflowing. it's possible there's too much fluid in there and the calipers won't retract all the way.
At 21:00 you talked about how to adjust the spin of your rotor...that locknut.. it has that tiny stem that fits into one of the holes of the washer ..how do you get that to fit and also lining up that protrusion?
Line it up first and then tighten the locking nut.
I think your point is that the first nut has a pin which must be on the outside so that it can engage in one of the holes in the washer. Odds are that it won't land on any hole first time, so try pulling the washer out and reinsert it the other side first. If the nut pin still does not land in a hole you have to turn the nut a few degrees and try again. It can take time. The video missed this important locking feature.
Hey Dave nice work. Question, are you guys selling 8 Lug steel wheels for '88 Sub Square body ? and
if so in what sizes ?
Not sure of the current wheel options. Check the catalog or website to see what's available.
My 1972 K10 has a different looking hub, how many were used because I am struggling to get the piece off after removing the ring
I got a k10 with semi float rear axle swapped in how do I measure brake pads to figure out what I need I see there are many different ones
Call the shop and one of our techs will help you sort it out. 800-977-2767
i had new rotors and calipers and brake lines put on mine and it seems like i have hubs not disenaging or hung calipers or the bearings are too tight
Its possible that the installer didn't align the pin correctly on the spacers which can let the bearing nut tighten up or back off. Either one of those things could cause drag.
Is there a bearing race on the inner and outer bearing ?
Yes there is.
How do i get my truck on your show ? I have 79 sierra grande. Thanks
For anyone curious about the name of the specialty tool it’s called a spindle nut socket
Great videos. Thanks for what you do