Need an Ultimate Force Centrifuge? Go here: pabiodieselsupply.com/product/ultimate-force-oil-centrifuge-w-1500-watt-inline-heater-120v Need a Black Diesel SUPPLY LIST? Go Here: pabiodieselsupply.com/black-diesel-supply-list-2
I have an old oil furnace in my workshop (70kW burner) and when I have enough used motor oil, I run it through it in a 40/60 mix (40% red Diesel, 60% oil). I modified the burner slightly. I beefed up the preheater from 150Watts to about 500 Watts and I modified the nozzle (I reduced the atomising slits in the cone of the nozzle by grinding it in the nozzle body with lapping compound) to deliver the rated 2GPH at 20 bar pressure instead of 9 bar. It works perfectly. The burner starts normally and the whole furnace can be cleaned out easily after burning 100 gallons of this mixture. The best thing is that it doesn't smoke at all.
Hi I’ve run black diesel for a good while now. I run the oil through a 25 micron large bag filter then a 1 micron bag filter. The oil flows in to a 55 gallon drum. I run the oil through a 2kwh heater. Once the oil is at 220 I engage the centrifuge. I run the system for 12 hours the oil recycles in the drum so it goes through the centrifuge about 10 times. The oil comes out very smooth but still black. I’ve had no issues.
I work with used oils and fuels for a living and here is some helpful info on how to separate water from hydrocarbon fluids in general. There is an odd quirk of physics with most common liquid hydrocarbons as they are heated they drop any suspended aqueous solutions (water antifreeze and the like) out of them. The rough ratio is 1 gallon per degree F rise per 10,000 gallons. That is to say that if you had 10,000 gallons of used oil and raised its temperature by 50 degrees you would get about 50 gallons of suspended water out of it.
You could use a multi stage filter system that then feeds into a centrifuge to help keep the centrifuge running longer between cleaning it or you could use multiple centrifuges also one larger sized one for bulk contamination removal that then flows into a smaller sized one since the oil would be mostly cleaned by the first stage the second stage would go without needing cleaning out as often and should in theory anyway produce cleaner oil.
I saw a hack in an old magazine. They set a bucket of dirty oil on the workbench and a clean bucket on the floor they used a piece of rope stuck in the dirty oil that wicked the oil up the rope and down to drip into the clean bucket like a siphon. They ran the rope through a hose as it went over the edge of the upper bucket to keep it from dripping down the side. They claimed that it filtered out the carbon deposits in the dirty oil. I’ve wanted to experiment with this for a few years but haven’t had the time to try it yet. Perhaps it might be useful to you or someone else.
You need a drain valve on the bottom of the heater. It acts as an oil water separator just based on design then the heat really helps it separate so you don't want all that water sitting in the bottom of the heater being steamec or even boiled into the oil above it so you want to add enough pipe and valve to the bottom of heater to get it away from the heat and you need to drain after every use
The centrifuge idea came to me when I had a grease car. I discovered something cool, that you can add to your list of useless information you know too. Isetta cars had a centrifugal oil filter/cleaner.
@@henmich It's certainly a possibility. We've had clients use the Ultimate Force for removing sediments from alkaline solutions before. If you have time and a welder, some folks have used a torque converter - gotta be careful though and make sure it's balanced.
A simple and cheap way to do ultra-fine (~1 micron ) physical filtering is to buy a stainless steel house filter body online and just use regular poly-based home water filters in it. The materials most filters are made of have moderate to high compatibility ratings with common oils and diesel/kerosine/jet fuels. With proper pre-treatment to settle out the solids and water a cheap $3 - $4 1 micron rated 2" x 10" home water filter cartridge can easily do 100+ gallons of used oil.
@@DerfOrNuffin I haven't looked into his work to much... From what I've seen it looks like a lot of wasted energy when motor oil or veggie oil is plentiful.
Good morning, I have a question. In This black diésel the viscosity its higher than the normal diésel, that not afect The motor or its performance? or should we add something to low the viscosity?
@@CarlosRamirez-col We have another video coming out about viscosity. Black Diesel can have a thicker viscosity depending on the engine. Typically people will dilute it with RUG in the range of 10-20%.
Have you ever tried to cook the sludge? Is there any more to evaporate from it and perhaps the right catalyst might solidify that jello like material into a kind of bakelight or primative plastic? My first thought was asphalt when I saw it. Have you considered blending it with sand. It has to be toxic with heavy metals though right? One thought might be adding bio-char material to aggregate it and that might stabilize it as a solid. Dunno though. Thanks for the centrifuge tour, that was really neat!
I wonder if some of that sludge is the "additive package" that is added to the base oil, to give it multi-viscosity properties. It is still good to remove it, but by removing it, it is most definitely no longer 'motor oil'. It is probably something closer to hydraulic oil? I read a lot of guys talking about synthetic oil is not optimum to use as black diesel but if the additives are removed, maybe then it no longer resists burning? I don't know. Just thinking out loud here :D
In our experience (And hundreds of customers) synthetic oil is not a problem to burn. Its all going to be mixed into conventional oil anyways at a shop into one container. Now, some hydraulic oil is heat resistant.....something to watch out for but its pretty rare to come across that stuff. Now those additives in the oil during combustion - I've never heard of it being a concern. I do know that ATF has additves, and its actually an old timers trick to add it to your fuel tank to clean the fuel system and injectors off. I've run my 7.3 on 90% straight ATF (Plus the 10% diesel I had in the fuel tank to being with) and it cleaned up my injection pump and injectors really well....
@@alexsmelly2263 I recommend cleaning it after every run....only takes a few minutes. I've had 300+ gallon runs of WMO and cleaned it afterwards and it was fine. For WVO, it'll be much dirtier. I would recommend checking it after 150 gallons.
@@GusgusA1 Yes, it's going to be mixed when coming from a mechanic shop anyways. We have not found any adverse effects from it in our engines, or our customers.
Everything is single-phase compatible. For the model in the video, a 120V single phase VFD converts the power to 3 phase so we can overdrive the motor past 3,600 rpm.
@@PABioSupply Thank you, I watched a couple more times and now realize your explanation of the inner bowl being quite full. The heavy sludge stays pinned against the outside and the thinner cleaner oil "floats" until it spills out the slots.
The cone directs bigger solids to the floor.. but not overly needed when u understand centrifugal force acting on the liquid.. bowl height and diameter are more important in relation to vent diameter..
You can't use recycled oil in a diesel engine after 2007 manufacturing. The best engine are with mechanical injectors , befor 1990. As soon you have dpf, or worse scr exhaust system, you have to use clean diesel.
Need an Ultimate Force Centrifuge? Go here: pabiodieselsupply.com/product/ultimate-force-oil-centrifuge-w-1500-watt-inline-heater-120v
Need a Black Diesel SUPPLY LIST? Go Here: pabiodieselsupply.com/black-diesel-supply-list-2
I have an old oil furnace in my workshop (70kW burner) and when I have enough used motor oil, I run it through it in a 40/60 mix (40% red Diesel, 60% oil). I modified the burner slightly. I beefed up the preheater from 150Watts to about 500 Watts and I modified the nozzle (I reduced the atomising slits in the cone of the nozzle by grinding it in the nozzle body with lapping compound) to deliver the rated 2GPH at 20 bar pressure instead of 9 bar.
It works perfectly. The burner starts normally and the whole furnace can be cleaned out easily after burning 100 gallons of this mixture. The best thing is that it doesn't smoke at all.
Hi I’ve run black diesel for a good while now. I run the oil through a 25 micron large bag filter then a 1 micron bag filter. The oil flows in to a 55 gallon drum. I run the oil through a 2kwh heater. Once the oil is at 220 I engage the centrifuge. I run the system for 12 hours the oil recycles in the drum so it goes through the centrifuge about 10 times. The oil comes out very smooth but still black. I’ve had no issues.
I work with used oils and fuels for a living and here is some helpful info on how to separate water from hydrocarbon fluids in general.
There is an odd quirk of physics with most common liquid hydrocarbons as they are heated they drop any suspended aqueous solutions (water antifreeze and the like) out of them. The rough ratio is 1 gallon per degree F rise per 10,000 gallons.
That is to say that if you had 10,000 gallons of used oil and raised its temperature by 50 degrees you would get about 50 gallons of suspended water out of it.
You could use a multi stage filter system that then feeds into a centrifuge to help keep the centrifuge running longer between cleaning it or you could use multiple centrifuges also one larger sized one for bulk contamination removal that then flows into a smaller sized one since the oil would be mostly cleaned by the first stage the second stage would go without needing cleaning out as often and should in theory anyway produce cleaner oil.
Great run down. Thank for the effort of putting the video together. The tips and tricks really help.
I saw a hack in an old magazine. They set a bucket of dirty oil on the workbench and a clean bucket on the floor they used a piece of rope stuck in the dirty oil that wicked the oil up the rope and down to drip into the clean bucket like a siphon. They ran the rope through a hose as it went over the edge of the upper bucket to keep it from dripping down the side. They claimed that it filtered out the carbon deposits in the dirty oil. I’ve wanted to experiment with this for a few years but haven’t had the time to try it yet. Perhaps it might be useful to you or someone else.
You need a drain valve on the bottom of the heater. It acts as an oil water separator just based on design then the heat really helps it separate so you don't want all that water sitting in the bottom of the heater being steamec or even boiled into the oil above it so you want to add enough pipe and valve to the bottom of heater to get it away from the heat and you need to drain after every use
The centrifuge idea came to me when I had a grease car. I discovered something cool, that you can add to your list of useless information you know too. Isetta cars had a centrifugal oil filter/cleaner.
@@henmich The list is only useless if you don't do anything with it. 😉 What's your idea though?
@@PABioSupply it was to clean my oil for my grease car, but my new idea is to see if it works on high iron content water coming into my house.
I also thought it would be good to try and do a magnetic coupling, so there would never be a leak issue at the motor shaft.
@@henmich It's certainly a possibility. We've had clients use the Ultimate Force for removing sediments from alkaline solutions before. If you have time and a welder, some folks have used a torque converter - gotta be careful though and make sure it's balanced.
اشهد بأنك رجل ذكي ومبدع ومتقن في عملك
Nice video. Very happy with the results from your fuge 👍
is the hydrocarbon chemical structure of the oil different from fresh oil? or is it just suspended particles? there has to be a way to get it clear
A simple and cheap way to do ultra-fine (~1 micron ) physical filtering is to buy a stainless steel house filter body online and just use regular poly-based home water filters in it.
The materials most filters are made of have moderate to high compatibility ratings with common oils and diesel/kerosine/jet fuels.
With proper pre-treatment to settle out the solids and water a cheap $3 - $4 1 micron rated 2" x 10" home water filter cartridge can easily do 100+ gallons of used oil.
We'll be doing a video pumping oil through a 1 micron bag filter, and then running it through a centrifuge. May do lab results as well.....
Whay do ypu think of nature jab turning plastic into diesel?
@@DerfOrNuffin I haven't looked into his work to much... From what I've seen it looks like a lot of wasted energy when motor oil or veggie oil is plentiful.
Good morning, I have a question. In This black diésel the viscosity its higher than the normal diésel, that not afect The motor or its performance? or should we add something to low the viscosity?
@@CarlosRamirez-col We have another video coming out about viscosity. Black Diesel can have a thicker viscosity depending on the engine. Typically people will dilute it with RUG in the range of 10-20%.
Have you ever tried to cook the sludge? Is there any more to evaporate from it and perhaps the right catalyst might solidify that jello like material into a kind of bakelight or primative plastic? My first thought was asphalt when I saw it. Have you considered blending it with sand. It has to be toxic with heavy metals though right? One thought might be adding bio-char material to aggregate it and that might stabilize it as a solid. Dunno though. Thanks for the centrifuge tour, that was really neat!
I have never tried 🤔
I wonder if some of that sludge is the "additive package" that is added to the base oil, to give it multi-viscosity properties. It is still good to remove it, but by removing it, it is most definitely no longer 'motor oil'. It is probably something closer to hydraulic oil? I read a lot of guys talking about synthetic oil is not optimum to use as black diesel but if the additives are removed, maybe then it no longer resists burning? I don't know. Just thinking out loud here :D
In our experience (And hundreds of customers) synthetic oil is not a problem to burn. Its all going to be mixed into conventional oil anyways at a shop into one container. Now, some hydraulic oil is heat resistant.....something to watch out for but its pretty rare to come across that stuff. Now those additives in the oil during combustion - I've never heard of it being a concern. I do know that ATF has additves, and its actually an old timers trick to add it to your fuel tank to clean the fuel system and injectors off. I've run my 7.3 on 90% straight ATF (Plus the 10% diesel I had in the fuel tank to being with) and it cleaned up my injection pump and injectors really well....
High carbon grease how cool..😂😂
When you get a chance consider buying a video recorder that records sideways. Thanks for the video
Just need to rotate the phone to landscape instead of using portrait position. No different equipment needed.
The videos were intended to go on social media, hence the format. Appreciate the feedback though and other videos will be landscape!
How long can you typically run the unit before you need to clean it. I understand it'll be based on how dirty your oil is
@@alexsmelly2263 I recommend cleaning it after every run....only takes a few minutes. I've had 300+ gallon runs of WMO and cleaned it afterwards and it was fine. For WVO, it'll be much dirtier. I would recommend checking it after 150 gallons.
Can you mix synthetic and conventional used oil?
@@GusgusA1 Yes, it's going to be mixed when coming from a mechanic shop anyways. We have not found any adverse effects from it in our engines, or our customers.
You said 3 phase. Do you need 3 phase power for that centrifuge?
Everything is single-phase compatible. For the model in the video, a 120V single phase VFD converts the power to 3 phase so we can overdrive the motor past 3,600 rpm.
Does the centrifuge seperate the water? Most shops around here dump their antifreeze into their oil tanks
No, it won't. It'll only separate out solid/heavy particles.
Oil coats the stick so the stick will not turn read once it reaches the water level
so particles under one micron is why it’s black?
Interesting
I may be missing something here, does the volume above the cone fill with centrifuged oil before it starts to come out the three curved slots?
@@lafarms Yes. The oil fills up inside the bowl and forms a "C" shape around the cone towards th center of the bowl.
@@PABioSupply Thank you, I watched a couple more times and now realize your explanation of the inner bowl being quite full. The heavy sludge stays pinned against the outside and the thinner cleaner oil "floats" until it spills out the slots.
@@lafarms Yep! That's how it works!
The cone directs bigger solids to the floor.. but not overly needed when u understand centrifugal force acting on the liquid.. bowl height and diameter are more important in relation to vent diameter..
You can't use recycled oil in a diesel engine after 2007 manufacturing. The best engine are with mechanical injectors , befor 1990.
As soon you have dpf, or worse scr exhaust system, you have to use clean diesel.
High carbon grease how cool..😂😂
change the way you record. This is a bad video format.
@@coreytran7415 thanks for the feedback. These videos were for social media but we put them on TH-cam anyways.
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