I was riding mine today and accidentally sucked up a rock then noticed white plastic shavings in the water. Thanks for the amazing tutorial I’ll be ripping mine apart tomorrow!
@@FixandMaintain still moved decent but it would hit rev limiter upon acceleration so I knew something was definitely going on. Hopefully it’s just the wear ring and I’ll be back in the water in a few days!
Yeah, more than likely it’s just the wear ring. Definitely inspect the impeller as well as the fins behind the impeller to make sure nothing else looks damaged while you have the jet pump off. But hopefully it will be an easy, straightforward wear ring swap!
Thanks! There’s not a way to check with feeler gauges without taking the jet pump off, but you should be able to see the wear ring with a flashlight either through the jet pump fins from behind or from the front through the intake grate underneath. It’s hard to tell for sure what the clearance is that way unless it’s very bad.
Thanks for your support 🙏 and making this video. I had a question: when you pullout the jet pump component, Do you need to remove any thing from drive shaft to detach it from impeller?
No, the drive shaft is held in place inside the watercraft by the carbon seal/bellows. It is a splined connection to the impeller that simply slides out as you remove the jet pump.
If it’s leaking in the hull, I would definitely consider replacing that seal. I wish I had recorded a video when I replaced mine, but it would have taken too much time to set up and I was in a hurry. I was able to do it without any special tools, but you will need some wood blocks and a crowbar. You can check the condition of the seal without removing anything just by pulling it back, away from the support ring.
I've noticed none of these videos show removing the four screws, two on one side of the impeller housing and two in the opposite side beneath the two water tubes. These seam to protrude slightly into the wear ring.
Those are retainer screws to hold the plastic wear ring in place on SeaDoos with plastic jet pump housings. I upgraded the jet pump in mine to one from a supercharged model (the plastic fins behind the impeller were damaged on the old housing), so mine is aluminum. If you’re upgrading to a stainless steel wear ring, just leave those screws out.
Like the video and your responses to questions. I have a 2019 seadoo gti se 155 and I just purchased a solas sr-cd-10/18a propeller. I have a wear ring that has some baby tiny wear groves. Should I replace the wear ring while I'm in there and if so, can you suggest the model wear ring number please? I'm curious if we come up with the same solas wear ring part number. Thank you in advance, Mike...
It appears that the 2019 GTI SE 155 has the same 155.5mm wear ring that I used for my GTX, which means the SR-HS-156-001 would be the correct ring to replace it with. That being said, if there are only tiny grooves, I’d check you clearance with a feeler gauge before ordering another wear ring. Unless you want to replace it “for good” with a stainless steel wear ring, I’d probably just stick with the one that’s on it.
Not with just the wear ring...but - I only noticed gains after replacing the impeller as well, since the previous owner had run the ski in shallow water and destroyed the outer edge of the stock impeller. All that to say, my situation was a bit different than replacing it if everything was fine to begin with.
I personally didn’t. Mine had such a tight fit that I don’t think I’d be able to take it out later even if I did use anti-seize. I also had a Waverunner that had a factory stainless wear ring and I never had to take the jet pump off in the 7 years I owned it (it also had sealed jet pump bearings, so no replacing grease required). Not sure why BRP chose to use plastic in SeaDoos, but stainless should last the lifetime of the boat as long as you don’t abuse it.
You’ll need the SR-HS-156-001. That’s exactly what I used. Mine originally came with the plastic housing, but the previous owner sucked up some rocks that destroyed the fins on the back side of the impeller. Turns out that some of the metal housings are interchangeable and just require a different spline tool to remove the old impeller before installing the correct impeller and wear ring for the ski.
No, and I sold it, so I won’t be able to make one on it unless I buy another SeaDoo. I never modified any of the steering or reverse cables and didn’t seem to have any issues, but I can see how that would be a problem if not properly set.
I believe it does. It looks like most stores haven’t updated their compatibility lists in a while, since it’s an older item. But I did manage to find one site that had it listed as compatible with your specific SeaDoo.
when you talked about removing the impeller boot, might be a good thing to mention that it unscrews. it doesn't just pull off like you did in the video. I'll be replacing my boot now as well.
Wear ring is designed to break if need be to save the impeller. Now you run the risk of sacrificing your impeller and wear ring if something goes wrong💰💰💰 for 1-2mph gain.
Comparing SS vs a new plastic wear ring should be similar performance. However, SS should last the life of the PWC. In fact, Yamaha only uses metal wear rings in the waverunner. I believe the two main reasons BRP uses plastic in the SeaDoo is 1. Cost and 2. Corrosion resistance in saltwater (versus the SS lined aluminum housings in a waverunner).
@@JackJones-fg1jx I'm also typically on the bandwagon of leaving things OEM. However, for my specific use case (relatively deep freshwater lakes), I think the SS wear ring was the best option for longevity. I can't imagine how the impeller would ever touch the wear ring inside a metal jet pump housing unless something got inside that would cause major driveshaft, impeller, and jet pump damage anyway. That being said, I did have to upgrade the original composite jet pump housing in that naturally aspirated GTX to a metal one from the supercharged version due to the previous owner riding in shallow water and sucking up rocks (damaging both the impeller and the jet pump vanes behind the impeller). With the composite jet pump housing, I can see there is the potential for slight flex that might cause the impeller to touch the wear ring. However, if that were the case, you should know there's a problem because you'd constantly be replacing plastic wear rings with consistent impeller marks (like I was with the old, damaged plastic jet pump housing).
I don’t know why anyone would be selling one of these used, unless they’re parting out a broken SeaDoo. The Solas wear ring should last the life of the watercraft, unless you’re doing things that would destroy the jet pump and impeller as well.
Great tutorial but why would you put Loctite when you’re going to have to replace a part later ? It just results and broken bolts and a harder job for the next person or yourself. that’s idiotic. Whatever happen to using good old fashion marine grease?
I believe you can use either wear ring with either impeller. I was replacing my plastic wear ring with the SS one, but found out my impeller was also part of the problem thanks to the previous owner running it through a shallow river.
Yes. The other manufacturers use stainless steel (some don’t have replaceable wear rings, the impeller housing is the wear ring), but BRP uses plastic, which ends up getting worn down over time. Plastic does have the advantage of being a sacrificial part if you do suck up foreign objects into the jet pump. However, I only ride mine in a lake, so I have minimal chances of that happening. Thus my decision to not have to change the wear ring again with the SS ring.
I personally would stay away from all the 2-stroke PWCs for a few reasons (fuel consumption, maintenance, power), but as long as it’s in good shape, I’m sure it would be fun to drive around out on the water.
Is your Challenger supercharged? If so, it appears you'll need a 159mm wear ring (SeaDoo Parts House is listing your replacement wear ring as 267000372), which would be this Solas wear ring: amzn.to/2SJsAew
Since my previous wear ring was fairly new, there was very little improvement. It turns out that my impeller was the reason I had performance issues (I recorded video for that, but haven’t had time to edit it and record voiceover yet). I do think the Solas wear ring is worth it if you’re replacing a worn out wear ring, since it’s the last wear ring you’ll ever have to buy.
Pretty much. Unless you do something to completely destroy your jet pump, in which case you have much bigger problems. The Solas wear ring is solid stainless steel and weighs a couple of pounds. I also have a 2006 Yamaha VX110 and it has a stainless wear ring from the factory (and also has sealed jet pump bearings). I’ve owned it for 6 years and have never had to remove the jet pump.
Yes, it is much more durable than plastic. Also, if you happen to have a SeaDoo with a plastic jet pump housing, a steel wear ring will help to reinforce the housing to prevent flex that could cause cavitation.
With something as expensive as a jet pump, I’d say it would be best to stick with what the manufacturer recommends. The impeller is spinning at relatively high RPMs (the same RPMs as the engine), so a good quality synthetic marine grease could probably keep it adequately lubricated. But, I don’t know what additives the XP-S grease has that a generic grease may not have.
I really like the Solas wear ring. I tried a different metal wear ring before, but it was a steel-lined plastic one. It was supposed to be stainless steel, but it started rusting after the first use. The Solas wear ring is solid stainless steel and very good quality. I used to have a waverunner that came with a metal wear ring from the factory and I never once had to take the jet pump off (and never had any clearance issues whatsoever). That's what convinced me that the argument of "having a plastic wear ring will protect your impeller" is wrong - at least for my use case in a freshwater lake, those who ride in shallow water or in the ocean it may be true for.
Right now I am having cavitation issues, I was getting top end speed and nothing on other days. The fins that are behind the impeller and gouged! I am thinking about trying to cut then in a line to save money. Just not sure if this will work. If you have ever heard of someone doing this please let me know! Jet pump housings seem to be expensive to replace. Thanks for your opinion and experience on the Solas wear ring
I was having those exact same issues with my SeaDoo. Top end was fine but major cavitation to the point of almost not being able to get going with three people on it. I'm not sure how much of an improvement it made (since I had a bad impeller - the blades were worn on the outer edge), but I replaced my original plastic housing with damaged fins with a metal one from a supercharged model (it cost $265 on eBay, but it came with a Solas impeller (wrong size for the non-SC GTX) that I was able to sell for $100). After that didn't improve low end cavitation, I bought the Solas wear ring. And after that still didn't improve cavitation, I used a feeler gauge (as you can see in my Solas impeller video th-cam.com/video/iG95e0NMHKQ/w-d-xo.html) and found out that I was quite a bit over tolerance. What I would recommend is that, if you have a wear ring in good condition currently, get a set of feeler gauges amzn.to/3kxJTdP to see what your clearance is between the impeller and wear ring, then go from there.
Yeah, I hear you. I was just thinking if cavitation is caused by bubbles and vapors then those fins must affect something. Then tolerances are pretty good, wear ring is new. The problem is this is a plastic housing. A metal one would be awesome cause I could have welded to make the housing as it was
A stainless wear ring should last the lifetime of the SeaDoo, rather than replacing a plastic wear ring every couple of years. The downside is it’s not going to be a sacrificial part like plastic is if you typically ride in shallow water or water with debris in it. Waverunners have stainless steel wear rings from the factory, and I never had any issues with the VX I used to own.
@1989rrichard I would only recommend upgrading the impeller if the stock impeller clearance between wear ring is above spec. There’s not enough difference to justify the cost IMO.
I can't imagine a scenario of normal use in which the stainless steel wear ring would need to be replaced, but it could perhaps be removed by placing the pump in the freezer for 30 minutes or so then applying heat to the outer jet pump. The impeller would probably need to be removed as well, to facilitate a pry tool to be used from the bottom. I had an 06 Waverunner as well that had a factory installed metal wear ring. I never had to even remove the jet pump from the watercraft in the 7 years that I owned it. I feel like BRP's choice to go with a plastic wear ring was mainly for 2 reasons: 1. To reduce costs. 2. To get slightly better clearance with a brand new wear ring (and possibly to increase long-term profits from selling wear rings). But, I believe a solid metal wear ring is much better long-term.
@@FixandMaintain I can see your point about needing one and also the process of possible replacement. I also ran yamahas for years, and this is my first seadoo. I did have the stock SS wear rings in my Yamahas replaced ( it is a whole component as I figure you know). I did it because I had sucked up some rocks a few times over many years that passed thru the system - sounding like a gravel mixer! - and wanted to restore things to "new" performance ( and also needed a reason to convince my wife that it was OK to buy so new tools) I add another reason #3 - in my mind at least - as to why a plastic ring on a Seadoo. I note that these Seadoo drive trains are was different than on the Yamahas, where where they have the engine with the cogged wheel, then the rubber shock and alignment absorbing "cauliflower", then a mating cogged wheel attached to an intermediate shaft, the aft end of which is hollow splined , said intermediate shaft and housing sealing against water coming in, and that intermediate bearing assembly taking the place of the dreaded Seadoo carbon seal. The impeller shaft slides up into the splines hollow shaft, and there is no water that comes in because the intermediate shaft has a bearing seal to prevent that. All this I figure you know already and I just post it for others that have not torne these things apart. All this way of taking power to the impeller provides a way of taking the shock if a rock jams a spinning engine and prevents any internal driveshaft splines at the engine side from stripping. It appears to my spidey sense that Seadoo engineers saw a need to introduce some shock absorption into their system as well and so that plastic ring is set to decelerate the rock as it cuts the groove into the plastic and thereby bleed off and reduce rotational impact/impulse to the drive train under a sudden blockage situation. ( yanahas do the same via that rubber cauliflower) All that being said, I am getting a SS ring to my Seadoo because I ride mostly where there are not rocks, and I want a SS ring to better chew grass and small sticks as opposed to having the gouge and stick in my pump. Does all this make sense to you.
Yeah, that's why I said "normal use," because in my opinion, sucking up any rocks wouldn't be normal use. But I guess even only using it on a lake, there is a chance of sucking up rocks at the boat launch or near the dock. Thanks for your explanation of the Waverunner impeller shaft. I did know about the SeaDoo drive shaft, since I had to replace the carbon seal on mine. However, the only maintenance I ever had to do on my Waverunner was changing the battery, oil, and spark plugs. I saw that it looked different, but never had a need to pull it apart to see how it worked. It makes sense that there would be a need for a "failure point" that would be somewhat easy to replace, but it seems like the wear rings in SeaDoos wear out way too fast even with normal use. I don't have my SeaDoo anymore, but I was very pleased with the performance after I replaced the impeller and wear ring with Solas Stainless Steel ones.
Does the new wear rings have a screw to hold the wear ring in. The one I just took out had 2 screws holding it in. Making me think I got the wrong new unit. My impeller is in good shape
Is it a plastic or a metal replacement wear ring that you’re installing? The stock wear ring is held in place with two screws on the top underneath the bailer tube and two on the bottom (on the models with plastic jet pump housings; the metal ones don’t have those screws). If it’s a plastic replacement ring, you can reinstall the screws by drilling partially into the new one with a drill bit just smaller than the screw (after installing the ring in the housing). Make sure you go the depth of the screw, but not so far that you go through to the inside of the ring. If it’s a stainless steel wear ring, don’t worry about it, you’re not going to get them in.
True. But I always ride in a freshwater lake that’s fairly deep. I can see keeping the plastic wear ring if you typically ride in areas that you might suck up junk into the jet pump, but also other manufacturers like Yamaha have metal wear rings that typically don’t ever have to be replaced unless it’s abused.
Looking back at the official shop manual that I was following when performing this procedure, I did misread the procedure about the loctite. Loctite antiseize should be placed on the impeller splines, not on those threads. That being said, I didn’t have any problems removing that impeller after using Loctite thread locker, and I can’t redo the video as I have already sold that SeaDoo.
This is one of the best put together videos on TH-cam, many thanks!
Thank you!
I was riding mine today and accidentally sucked up a rock then noticed white plastic shavings in the water. Thanks for the amazing tutorial I’ll be ripping mine apart tomorrow!
Oh no! Definitely sounds like the wear ring is toast.
@@FixandMaintain still moved decent but it would hit rev limiter upon acceleration so I knew something was definitely going on. Hopefully it’s just the wear ring and I’ll be back in the water in a few days!
Yeah, more than likely it’s just the wear ring. Definitely inspect the impeller as well as the fins behind the impeller to make sure nothing else looks damaged while you have the jet pump off. But hopefully it will be an easy, straightforward wear ring swap!
Excellent video, well shot and good commentary!
Thanks!
Actually a lifesaver of a video, Thank you!
You're welcome!
Keep up the great work
Thanks!
Great video, thanks for that. I suppose this procedure and parts numbers apply to all years GTX-155? I have a 2010, what year is yours?
Thanks! Yes, as far as I know, this applies to all GTX-155 models. Mine was a 2005.
Great video! Is there a way to check the wear ring without taking everything apart?
Thanks!
There’s not a way to check with feeler gauges without taking the jet pump off, but you should be able to see the wear ring with a flashlight either through the jet pump fins from behind or from the front through the intake grate underneath. It’s hard to tell for sure what the clearance is that way unless it’s very bad.
Thanks for your support 🙏 and making this video. I had a question: when you pullout the jet pump component, Do you need to remove any thing from drive shaft to detach it from impeller?
No, the drive shaft is held in place inside the watercraft by the carbon seal/bellows. It is a splined connection to the impeller that simply slides out as you remove the jet pump.
@@FixandMaintain do you recommend to re install a new carbon seal too? I do have some small water leak in the haul
If it’s leaking in the hull, I would definitely consider replacing that seal. I wish I had recorded a video when I replaced mine, but it would have taken too much time to set up and I was in a hurry. I was able to do it without any special tools, but you will need some wood blocks and a crowbar.
You can check the condition of the seal without removing anything just by pulling it back, away from the support ring.
I've noticed none of these videos show removing the four screws, two on one side of the impeller housing and two in the opposite side beneath the two water tubes. These seam to protrude slightly into the wear ring.
Those are retainer screws to hold the plastic wear ring in place on SeaDoos with plastic jet pump housings. I upgraded the jet pump in mine to one from a supercharged model (the plastic fins behind the impeller were damaged on the old housing), so mine is aluminum. If you’re upgrading to a stainless steel wear ring, just leave those screws out.
Is this the same procedure for a 2003 Seadoo 4tec gtx supercharged?
As far as I know the procedure is the same, but you’ll need to use the 159mm wear ring.
Like the video and your responses to questions. I have a 2019 seadoo gti se 155 and I just purchased a solas sr-cd-10/18a propeller. I have a wear ring that has some baby tiny wear groves. Should I replace the wear ring while I'm in there and if so, can you suggest the model wear ring number please? I'm curious if we come up with the same solas wear ring part number. Thank you in advance, Mike...
It appears that the 2019 GTI SE 155 has the same 155.5mm wear ring that I used for my GTX, which means the SR-HS-156-001 would be the correct ring to replace it with. That being said, if there are only tiny grooves, I’d check you clearance with a feeler gauge before ordering another wear ring. Unless you want to replace it “for good” with a stainless steel wear ring, I’d probably just stick with the one that’s on it.
did you notice any low end acceleration gains or top speed?
Not with just the wear ring...but - I only noticed gains after replacing the impeller as well, since the previous owner had run the ski in shallow water and destroyed the outer edge of the stock impeller.
All that to say, my situation was a bit different than replacing it if everything was fine to begin with.
So now I got the stainless wear ring.
I feel like I should anti seize the stainless ring into the aluminum housing?or grease?
I personally didn’t. Mine had such a tight fit that I don’t think I’d be able to take it out later even if I did use anti-seize. I also had a Waverunner that had a factory stainless wear ring and I never had to take the jet pump off in the 7 years I owned it (it also had sealed jet pump bearings, so no replacing grease required). Not sure why BRP chose to use plastic in SeaDoos, but stainless should last the lifetime of the boat as long as you don’t abuse it.
What size wear ring did you use ? I have a 2002
Seadoo gtx 4 tec with the plastic housing . Would you happen to know what size I need ?
You’ll need the SR-HS-156-001.
That’s exactly what I used. Mine originally came with the plastic housing, but the previous owner sucked up some rocks that destroyed the fins on the back side of the impeller. Turns out that some of the metal housings are interchangeable and just require a different spline tool to remove the old impeller before installing the correct impeller and wear ring for the ski.
No pics of the new impeller?
The new impeller has its own video: th-cam.com/video/iG95e0NMHKQ/w-d-xo.html
Wish I could see clearance on prop
The stock impeller had too much clearance, so I replaced it with a Solas. You can see the clearance here: th-cam.com/video/iG95e0NMHKQ/w-d-xo.html
Have any videos on the setting for the brake/reverse. If not set correctly is causes drag.
No, and I sold it, so I won’t be able to make one on it unless I buy another SeaDoo. I never modified any of the steering or reverse cables and didn’t seem to have any issues, but I can see how that would be a problem if not properly set.
Will that wear ring fit on 2023 gti se 170?
I believe it does. It looks like most stores haven’t updated their compatibility lists in a while, since it’s an older item. But I did manage to find one site that had it listed as compatible with your specific SeaDoo.
when you talked about removing the impeller boot, might be a good thing to mention that it unscrews. it doesn't just pull off like you did in the video. I'll be replacing my boot now as well.
You must have a different model than mine. The stock boot on my 05 GTX 4-Tec (non-supercharged) had an O-ring-like end that fit inside the impeller.
Wear ring is designed to break if need be to save the impeller. Now you run the risk of sacrificing your impeller and wear ring if something goes wrong💰💰💰 for 1-2mph gain.
Comparing SS vs a new plastic wear ring should be similar performance. However, SS should last the life of the PWC. In fact, Yamaha only uses metal wear rings in the waverunner. I believe the two main reasons BRP uses plastic in the SeaDoo is 1. Cost and 2. Corrosion resistance in saltwater (versus the SS lined aluminum housings in a waverunner).
@@FixandMaintain engineers designed it, leave it alone. Like I said before say goodbye to your impeller if they ever touch. Shit happens.
@@JackJones-fg1jx I'm also typically on the bandwagon of leaving things OEM. However, for my specific use case (relatively deep freshwater lakes), I think the SS wear ring was the best option for longevity. I can't imagine how the impeller would ever touch the wear ring inside a metal jet pump housing unless something got inside that would cause major driveshaft, impeller, and jet pump damage anyway.
That being said, I did have to upgrade the original composite jet pump housing in that naturally aspirated GTX to a metal one from the supercharged version due to the previous owner riding in shallow water and sucking up rocks (damaging both the impeller and the jet pump vanes behind the impeller). With the composite jet pump housing, I can see there is the potential for slight flex that might cause the impeller to touch the wear ring. However, if that were the case, you should know there's a problem because you'd constantly be replacing plastic wear rings with consistent impeller marks (like I was with the old, damaged plastic jet pump housing).
I don't have enough money to buy. do you have one that was used by a friend?
I don’t know why anyone would be selling one of these used, unless they’re parting out a broken SeaDoo. The Solas wear ring should last the life of the watercraft, unless you’re doing things that would destroy the jet pump and impeller as well.
Amazing 😊
👍🏼
Great video thanks.
👍🏼
Great tutorial but why would you put Loctite when you’re going to have to replace a part later ? It just results and broken bolts and a harder job for the next person or yourself. that’s idiotic. Whatever happen to using good old fashion marine grease?
🤷🏼♂️ you should ask the guys who wrote the shop manual.
So if i use the plastic wear ring i dont have to change the impeller?
I believe you can use either wear ring with either impeller. I was replacing my plastic wear ring with the SS one, but found out my impeller was also part of the problem thanks to the previous owner running it through a shallow river.
@@FixandMaintain aww man that sucks and so the ss ring is an upgrade?
Yes. The other manufacturers use stainless steel (some don’t have replaceable wear rings, the impeller housing is the wear ring), but BRP uses plastic, which ends up getting worn down over time. Plastic does have the advantage of being a sacrificial part if you do suck up foreign objects into the jet pump. However, I only ride mine in a lake, so I have minimal chances of that happening. Thus my decision to not have to change the wear ring again with the SS ring.
Are 1995 gtx seadoo gtx bombardier any good anyone?
I personally would stay away from all the 2-stroke PWCs for a few reasons (fuel consumption, maintenance, power), but as long as it’s in good shape, I’m sure it would be fun to drive around out on the water.
Will this work on a 2005 seadoo Challenger 180?
Is your Challenger supercharged? If so, it appears you'll need a 159mm wear ring (SeaDoo Parts House is listing your replacement wear ring as 267000372), which would be this Solas wear ring: amzn.to/2SJsAew
Did you notice an improvement in performance after this work?
Since my previous wear ring was fairly new, there was very little improvement. It turns out that my impeller was the reason I had performance issues (I recorded video for that, but haven’t had time to edit it and record voiceover yet). I do think the Solas wear ring is worth it if you’re replacing a worn out wear ring, since it’s the last wear ring you’ll ever have to buy.
@@FixandMaintain is this true tho? That if you get the stainless wear ring, thats it? You never have to buy jt again?
Pretty much. Unless you do something to completely destroy your jet pump, in which case you have much bigger problems. The Solas wear ring is solid stainless steel and weighs a couple of pounds.
I also have a 2006 Yamaha VX110 and it has a stainless wear ring from the factory (and also has sealed jet pump bearings). I’ve owned it for 6 years and have never had to remove the jet pump.
why is the steel wear ring better? more durable?
Yes, it is much more durable than plastic. Also, if you happen to have a SeaDoo with a plastic jet pump housing, a steel wear ring will help to reinforce the housing to prevent flex that could cause cavitation.
Can I use marine grease?
With something as expensive as a jet pump, I’d say it would be best to stick with what the manufacturer recommends.
The impeller is spinning at relatively high RPMs (the same RPMs as the engine), so a good quality synthetic marine grease could probably keep it adequately lubricated. But, I don’t know what additives the XP-S grease has that a generic grease may not have.
@@FixandMaintain man my ring had a epic groove but thank you for your help just changed it out with no tools you are a savior 👌!!!!!!!!!!
I have heard mixed reviews about using this wear ring. What was your experience?
I really like the Solas wear ring. I tried a different metal wear ring before, but it was a steel-lined plastic one. It was supposed to be stainless steel, but it started rusting after the first use. The Solas wear ring is solid stainless steel and very good quality. I used to have a waverunner that came with a metal wear ring from the factory and I never once had to take the jet pump off (and never had any clearance issues whatsoever). That's what convinced me that the argument of "having a plastic wear ring will protect your impeller" is wrong - at least for my use case in a freshwater lake, those who ride in shallow water or in the ocean it may be true for.
Right now I am having cavitation issues, I was getting top end speed and nothing on other days. The fins that are behind the impeller and gouged! I am thinking about trying to cut then in a line to save money. Just not sure if this will work. If you have ever heard of someone doing this please let me know! Jet pump housings seem to be expensive to replace. Thanks for your opinion and experience on the Solas wear ring
I was having those exact same issues with my SeaDoo. Top end was fine but major cavitation to the point of almost not being able to get going with three people on it. I'm not sure how much of an improvement it made (since I had a bad impeller - the blades were worn on the outer edge), but I replaced my original plastic housing with damaged fins with a metal one from a supercharged model (it cost $265 on eBay, but it came with a Solas impeller (wrong size for the non-SC GTX) that I was able to sell for $100). After that didn't improve low end cavitation, I bought the Solas wear ring. And after that still didn't improve cavitation, I used a feeler gauge (as you can see in my Solas impeller video th-cam.com/video/iG95e0NMHKQ/w-d-xo.html) and found out that I was quite a bit over tolerance.
What I would recommend is that, if you have a wear ring in good condition currently, get a set of feeler gauges amzn.to/3kxJTdP to see what your clearance is between the impeller and wear ring, then go from there.
Yeah, I hear you. I was just thinking if cavitation is caused by bubbles and vapors then those fins must affect something. Then tolerances are pretty good, wear ring is new. The problem is this is a plastic housing. A metal one would be awesome cause I could have welded to make the housing as it was
You need grease in the cone
I think that's covered @ 2:41
What’s the benefit of going stainless steel ?
A stainless wear ring should last the lifetime of the SeaDoo, rather than replacing a plastic wear ring every couple of years. The downside is it’s not going to be a sacrificial part like plastic is if you typically ride in shallow water or water with debris in it.
Waverunners have stainless steel wear rings from the factory, and I never had any issues with the VX I used to own.
@@FixandMaintain thank u for the great info , do u recommend the impeller upgrade while doing the wear ring ?
@1989rrichard I would only recommend upgrading the impeller if the stock impeller clearance between wear ring is above spec. There’s not enough difference to justify the cost IMO.
Tiny performance gain, but now he runs the risk of destroying his impeller if it touches the stainless steel ring💰💰💰
How do you remove the ss ring if you need to replace it?
I can't imagine a scenario of normal use in which the stainless steel wear ring would need to be replaced, but it could perhaps be removed by placing the pump in the freezer for 30 minutes or so then applying heat to the outer jet pump. The impeller would probably need to be removed as well, to facilitate a pry tool to be used from the bottom.
I had an 06 Waverunner as well that had a factory installed metal wear ring. I never had to even remove the jet pump from the watercraft in the 7 years that I owned it. I feel like BRP's choice to go with a plastic wear ring was mainly for 2 reasons: 1. To reduce costs. 2. To get slightly better clearance with a brand new wear ring (and possibly to increase long-term profits from selling wear rings). But, I believe a solid metal wear ring is much better long-term.
@@FixandMaintain I can see your point about needing one and also the process of possible replacement. I also ran yamahas for years, and this is my first seadoo. I did have the stock SS wear rings in my Yamahas replaced ( it is a whole component as I figure you know). I did it because I had sucked up some rocks a few times over many years that passed thru the system - sounding like a gravel mixer! - and wanted to restore things to "new" performance ( and also needed a reason to convince my wife that it was OK to buy so new tools) I add another reason #3 - in my mind at least - as to why a plastic ring on a Seadoo. I note that these Seadoo drive trains are was different than on the Yamahas, where where they have the engine with the cogged wheel, then the rubber shock and alignment absorbing "cauliflower", then a mating cogged wheel attached to an intermediate shaft, the aft end of which is hollow splined , said intermediate shaft and housing sealing against water coming in, and that intermediate bearing assembly taking the place of the dreaded Seadoo carbon seal. The impeller shaft slides up into the splines hollow shaft, and there is no water that comes in because the intermediate shaft has a bearing seal to prevent that. All this I figure you know already and I just post it for others that have not torne these things apart. All this way of taking power to the impeller provides a way of taking the shock if a rock jams a spinning engine and prevents any internal driveshaft splines at the engine side from stripping. It appears to my spidey sense that Seadoo engineers saw a need to introduce some shock absorption into their system as well and so that plastic ring is set to decelerate the rock as it cuts the groove into the plastic and thereby bleed off and reduce rotational impact/impulse to the drive train under a sudden blockage situation. ( yanahas do the same via that rubber cauliflower) All that being said, I am getting a SS ring to my Seadoo because I ride mostly where there are not rocks, and I want a SS ring to better chew grass and small sticks as opposed to having the gouge and stick in my pump. Does all this make sense to you.
Yeah, that's why I said "normal use," because in my opinion, sucking up any rocks wouldn't be normal use. But I guess even only using it on a lake, there is a chance of sucking up rocks at the boat launch or near the dock.
Thanks for your explanation of the Waverunner impeller shaft. I did know about the SeaDoo drive shaft, since I had to replace the carbon seal on mine. However, the only maintenance I ever had to do on my Waverunner was changing the battery, oil, and spark plugs. I saw that it looked different, but never had a need to pull it apart to see how it worked.
It makes sense that there would be a need for a "failure point" that would be somewhat easy to replace, but it seems like the wear rings in SeaDoos wear out way too fast even with normal use. I don't have my SeaDoo anymore, but I was very pleased with the performance after I replaced the impeller and wear ring with Solas Stainless Steel ones.
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Thanks!
Right in the gravel
What’s in the gravel?
what year is this ski?
2005
my jet pump has oil not grease. can i switch that to grease or do i need to fill that up with oil? if so what kind. Thank you
It depends on what year. I’d stick with whatever the manufacturer recommends.
Does the new wear rings have a screw to hold the wear ring in. The one I just took out had 2 screws holding it in. Making me think I got the wrong new unit. My impeller is in good shape
Is it a plastic or a metal replacement wear ring that you’re installing? The stock wear ring is held in place with two screws on the top underneath the bailer tube and two on the bottom (on the models with plastic jet pump housings; the metal ones don’t have those screws). If it’s a plastic replacement ring, you can reinstall the screws by drilling partially into the new one with a drill bit just smaller than the screw (after installing the ring in the housing). Make sure you go the depth of the screw, but not so far that you go through to the inside of the ring. If it’s a stainless steel wear ring, don’t worry about it, you’re not going to get them in.
And my using blue loctite
Blue loctite on the cone screws?
Can we get this for the spark
They do make SOLAS wear rings for the Spark. I won't be able to do a tutorial on it, though, since I don't own one...
That will be a bitch to replace if you ever have to…hope you never get dirt rocks sand in the nozzle
True. But I always ride in a freshwater lake that’s fairly deep. I can see keeping the plastic wear ring if you typically ride in areas that you might suck up junk into the jet pump, but also other manufacturers like Yamaha have metal wear rings that typically don’t ever have to be replaced unless it’s abused.
I don't know about your loctite.
Looking back at the official shop manual that I was following when performing this procedure, I did misread the procedure about the loctite. Loctite antiseize should be placed on the impeller splines, not on those threads. That being said, I didn’t have any problems removing that impeller after using Loctite thread locker, and I can’t redo the video as I have already sold that SeaDoo.