Bully Liner coating can improve your 3D prints dramatically
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ก.พ. 2021
- I want to 3D print parts for my project car. In this video I test out Bully Liner and bitumen liner coatings to see if they make prints stronger, hide layers lines, and UV, water and heat resistant. The results were quite encouraging, all with no sanding before or in between coats!
Bully Liner website (USA and Canada orders): www.bullyliner.com/
Bully Liner (Aus): www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/b...
Paint on bitumen rubber: www.bunnings.com.au/gripset-b...
Bunnings Warehouse waterproofing video: • How To Waterproof Your...
Alternative Raptor Liner product: www.raptorcoatings.com/
Wham Bam slap mat: bit.ly/30y3fVS
Models from this video:
Low poly fox: www.thingiverse.com/thing:937740
Rubber band boat: www.thingiverse.com/thing:641115
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Respirator is NEVER a bad idea. The chemicals may not be “harmful” but breathing in the particulates isn’t a good idea. I work I custom car building, we wear respirators more often than not these days. Especially when spraying anything.
Exactly. “Nontoxic” or not, it’s clearly a bad idea to breath in what is essentially aerosol rubber spray. If it can coat your hands, what do you think it does to your lungs when you breath it in? Honestly surprised he went out of his way to tell people not to use proper PPE. It’s quite irresponsible and I would expect him to know better than that...
@@einsteinx2 Same as I was thinking. Expecially with all these medical masks around from covid, at least put one of those on lol.
I guess it is pretty off topic but does anybody know a good site to watch new movies online ?
@Micah Kairo Flixportal :D
@Jeremiah Troy Thank you, I signed up and it seems to work :D I really appreciate it !
Wow! Now I’m wondering about _intentionally_ printing something in PVA, covering it in liner, and then dissolving the PVA to get a hollow liner object.
The space suits (chest, backpack & arm pieces) from the martian were literally 3D printed, then molded in silicone and then the molds were sprayed on the inside with liner to cast them. Tested.com did a video on it years ago
Using the stepper motor in the tub made me cringe just a bit.
Same. I was like NO NOT THE STEPPER!
In the interests of completeness, that motor should be plugged into a 3D printer to see how well it withstands dunking
THey were the only thing I had four of that were heavy enough, but not too heavy, and fit nicely in the boat.
He should have added a disclaimer: No stepper motors were harmed while making this video.
they don't have small stones or rocks in Australia.
Quite a few months back Tom Sanderlander (?) did a test using a 50/50 mix of resin (for resin printing) and IPA and used it to coat PLA prints and hardened it with a hand UV light. I just finished testing out that concept, and resin/IPA coated 3 large cylinders for washing resin prints and I used a small UV light to cure also. And it worked, and sanding the resin mix sanded easily with a 120 grit sandpaper. A major improvement over sanding uncoated PLA. Try that for a test, a little resin goes a long way so at current resin prices it’s relatively cheap. I forgot to mention I used no brushes just a misting/spritzing bottle. The results were good with one coat and one sanding.
As someone who is about to print some external parts for a project car, this is incredibly timely. I already have a spray can of PlastDip in the workshop so that'll get first try but the brushable nature of the Bully Dip looks very promising. Thanks for the detailed comparison vid.
A lot of suggestions for Plastidip in these comments so I may have to try that too. Good luck with your project.
That's interesting. I'll certainly do a bit of testing on my own, thanks for the nudge into this direction. I live near the sea and come April, May latest, I plan on going kayaking quite a bit and it looks like this could be useful in case I come up with ideas of things to print for that. Water: check. UV: check, heat: check, at least once summer approaches
I’ve been looking at having my truck bed done with a rhino lining. But as I prefer diy projects, the bully liner seems like the perfect product!!!
Spray on is is my favourite method. For the winch bar, I sprayed on everything I could but for the hard to reach internal cavities I then used a brush to lay it on thick and rust proof it. I haven't tried it yet but a roller may be a good alternative for large flatish surfaces.
I did my truck bed a few months ago with Herculiner and it's held up well. It's a brush / roll on product that comes with almost everything you need in the kit. It's made with recycled tires and polyurethane. Looks pretty good too. Cost I think was less than $150 for more than enough to do 2 coats on my 5 1/2 foot F-150 bed. Note that I don't haul around loads of rocks and dirt but I do put tools back there and haven't had any issues with it. I kept the plastic bed liner that came with the truck in case I need to haul anything like rocks or dirt just to make it easier to clean out.
It's not surface tension that was the problem with the boats, but buoyancy. The weight added to the displacement and pushed the boats lower, increasing the pressure of the water at the openings and allowing it to flow in.
Great video as always
Great project👍😀
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us👍😀
I sprayed my ute a few years ago with raptor liner love it
I used to coat ABS parts with melted ABS in acetone. Simply pour over. Made the parts very nice looking.
What kind of ratio did you use?
@@DustinCline from what I recall, i filled a small jar with acetone about 1/3 of the way up and filled it with abs scraps up to the lid, let it sit for a day or so and it turns the consistency of pudding.
@@Engineerd3d Very interesting. I would have never thought to try something like that. Thanks for sharing!
I love when you say " product".
Thanks
The double space in the title gives me kerning shudders
I don't know what you mean.
@@SuperDeinVadda michael changed the title of the video since i made this comment
@@Robert_DROP_TABLE_students-- whoooosh
Yep posted with the wrong title, then fixed. Brain fade!
I thoroughly enjoyed the guys melting in the oven.
Plus this was a great idea
The stippled Bully liner models look a lot like cast iron done in sand moulds, it's a really nice effect on the fox and little guy.
Interesting video. I wet sand my parts because the outside dimensions matter to me. Didn't know about the bitumen paint so I'll give that a try next time. Currently my goto is spray on rubber or acrylic paint with spray on automotive primer.
Seems interesting to use that bully liner for plastic annealing. You should send a can to Stefan from CNC Kitchen.
Would also be interested in how it affects overall performance - pla stiffness but ridiculous toughness as well!? Sweet!
There's a variant of Rustoleam Primer that goes on thicker straight out of a rattle can that not only hides imperfections brilliantly but you don't have to sand it if you choose not to. It's intended as a surface builder for automobiles I believe in that it can be sanded, but I've used it both ways and paint on it directly. What I really wish they had--or a more affordable version existed--is a sprayable epoxy system that's plastic safe. All the ones I know of are a two part that you can thin somewhat with airbrush thinner and apply the same way. The airdry versions work well and add a very durable outer shell, but a base level kit (last I purchased one) was around $50 US. Duracoat and Cerakote are examples of this and come in tons of colors, though the majority of Cerakotes require an oven treatment. Duracoat is mostly airdry and if you take your time with an airbrush and clean up well afterwards, goes on beautifully and won't harden in your brush.
Correction: As it's been some years since I first used Cerakote, I checked their site and surprisingly, they've moved to almost all air cure colors with only their hardcore variants requiring oven cure! Prices are much better too, with a 4 ounce kit costing $35 and going up from there.
Thanks for the detailed response.
As usual Michael, excellent video. You really do come up with some interesting ideas! If you want to remove, or at least reduce surface tension in water, add some soap.
Can see some good use for this as I am 3d printing some parts for my car dash. And the rubber look will fit in well.
Great video. I know you don't like sanding, but I might suggest you break the edges juste a bit to allow the finish to stick. It is a very sharp edge it to stick to. It is something we have to do for any paint or varnish
Awesome tests
For heat test I feel like you would get better results with 100 percent infill
My only wish for this video is that you had covered how well acrylic paint sticks to the product, but otherwise great video!
I'm also interested to know if you can paint over the top.
my understanding of bully liner is that paint will not stick to it. it is used in ute trays to make them water tight and very hard to scratch .
The Raptor liner comes in a tintable version which means you mix your own custom colours. I was under the impression you could paint over the bully liner but I haven't tried it.
Love that rugged texture. Like pro audio PA speakers! If you like that texture could try PA speaker coatings.
thats a great idea. thank you
For a cat bowl, I printed, I used a clear food grade lacquer.
I bought one which general purpose is also to prevent harmful substances go into the food. So, you could make a lead bowl and paint it with it and eat safely out of said bowl.
But I can't say if it would be any good for your application, since it is clear, I only painted the upper side, and didn't want to hide any imperfections.
Side note: Instead of painting it on you also could dip your parts. With the appropriate planning (no infill, holes into hollow parts) you also could coat the inside. ...
Am still not convinced the parts would hold the shape under load, though.
Rustoleum makes a rubberized undercoating that comes in a standard spray paint can and is as easy as spray paint to use that is designed for many similar uses as the Bully Liner and in my experience works very well. Haven't had a need to try on a print but if you want to see some results I have a few cans laying around and would happily do some tests. Not sure if it would waterproof prints or not but it does have a fair bit of textured and rubbery texture. I believe they also make an actual bed liner type spray which is more heat/UV resistant.
It is pronounced : bit-too-men and the painting method of painting you used for the final coat id called "stippling". Very helpful to see this video.
This is an awesome find and great application technic. Could you hold the boat shells to a very bright sharp light source ( Phone flashlight etc ) and check for the light blocking ability of the Bully Liner please? I have a prototype assignment that needs light blocking coverage and this technique is going to be great for finishing the product in two ways.
Could this potentially be used to smooth imperfections and sand them for cosplay pieces (more precicely, helmets)? Or do you have another suggestion for this?
There is also a petrol proof fuel tank liner, but I think you have to get it from speed shops like Rocket.
I use bitumen paint to block holes in my tin roof, and without thinning it's still a little bit runny.
Plastidip is another good alternative.
Oh yeah, I should try that sometime. Should have a can of it laying in the basement for a couple years now without ever using it.
PlastiDip is a great product, BUT, hideously expensive outside North America !
I've used that FlexSeal spray on liner, works well if you want a textured finish but it is also pricey but i think still cheaper than the Bully liner.
I have too. I also like their clear version so that the color of your filament still shows if that is what you're after.
Thank you for doing a video on this awesome product !
It's actually AU$50 with a Supercheap Auto members card
I print with cheap "PLA" (e-sun) that has quite some ABS in it. Then, I apply thin coat of ABS dissolved in acetone - it integrates into the part, seals and makes the part quite stronger - the combination of stiff PLA and "soft" ABS is quite interesting. Worth to test, but be aware - only works on PLAs with sufficient amount of ABS in it.
I just started printing with e-sun and it turns out to be a great filament for the price. I will try the ABS in acetone which sounds interesting
Not meant to make a print prettier, but in regards of water tightness I used Titebond III Ultimate woodglue. Read about it somewhere on the internet and found it suitable for my case. I needed to make a planter with water reservoir watertight. But because it was meant for kitchen herbs I wanted it to be save and non toxic, and this glue seems to be on of those things you can see american children eat in TV shows.
It's about as thick as your second run with the bitumen mixture, so it can ooze a little bit down straight walls. But it worked quite fine and the planters are in use for about 6 months.
In regards of looks, I painted the internal walls from the planters, so they still look nice on the outside. On the inside it was mostly clear after drying, but a little bit hard to tell because i used ivory colored filament. You can see some "dirt" marks though on the inside, depending on how thick the coating was. So it definatly should not be used to make a print pretty unless you plan on painting it afterwards.
Does the glue seem to re-wet at all when you water the plants?
@@amberlindsey7112 No when the glue hardens, it is no longer water soluble. Pretty much like acrylic paint in that regard.
This is very timely, I was going to use truck bed liner on my 3D printed electric longboard battery case but the bottle nozzle snapped so I didnt get to test it.
Amazing T-shirt
Since the bully liner is made from tires, does the coating feel rubbery? I've been looking for a product to coat some plastic tires with in order to give them more traction.
Have you tried "Rubber Dip"? Its a product for tool handles.
@@iteerrex8166 Not sure if it's just a US thing, but it's known as "plasti-dip" here.
@@candorman9444 Not sure but I have seen both names from the same company. It could be a variant of it. I haven't looked into the details.
@@iteerrex8166 Thanks
FLEX SEAL
A long term test with a Bully liner coated part left in a car (regularly parked in the sun) for a few months to see how it handles heat in real world use cases would definitely be interesting! Though I suspect we may see that anyway as part of the project car series.
The wheel arches coatings are about a month old but yes you will see how stuff holds up longer term as the series progresses.
Try Flex Seal next, I hear it works great on boats :)
Bully liner is basically the same thing as spray truck bed liner but alot more expensive. You can buy spray truck bed liner for $8 and it works great for getting rid of lines but it does have a rough finish which is what I want but a lot of people don't want that.
Get a non-spray can of plastidip and it’ll make this process so much easier, plus there’s tons of colors to choose from.
Hi Michael, you mentioned a while back you might do a video on Octoprint& the BTT smart filament sensor. I have one and it works kinda but its a bit flakey, wondered how close you are to making it work.
With the bitumen rubber I'm curious if you could dunk a part into it, let the excess drip off and then once dry dip again. Similar to how a candle has more and more layers of wax built up on each successive dip. I'm sure it would take more time to set up if you were going to do a single part, but if many objects were to be done at once you could end up saving a decent amount of time by cutting out brushing. You mentioned that the airtight container kept things stable so a larger container of diluted bitumen could be prepared and stored for further use.
Michael, what about trying some of that Flex Seal they advertise on TV?
Great video. I love it when you cover these topics and in such a simple and practical way. But can I also ask to anybody out there: More so than a rubber or bitumin based coating, is there also any equivalent product based on silicone instead? Because silicone has better properties for certain applications. One obvious example is stuff like mould making. But speaking for myself here... protecting polycarbonate 3d prints. Because PC can widthstand higher temperatures of up to 140c. The reason we need to protect the polycarbonate (in specific) is because it is so brittle it develops micro cracks around local higher stress points. But also at the same time because PC degrades and fails in the presence of lubricating oils and other types of chemicals. Because PC has poor chemical resistance. So if anyone out there can suggest silicone based equivalent(s) . That is a low viscocity to apply, but then dries or cures to be very hard / tough and exceptionally durable. Must be neutral cure silicone (oxime) based. So as not to corrode during drying. Please find that golden wonderous material... it would indeed be worth stress testing, on a polycarbonae mechanical / functional parts. And subjecting to some acid or whatever. Could also compare to this rubber truck bed liner stuff too. And see how they stack up against each other. Any suggestions welcome! Many thanks!
Well, I don't know about silicone based products, as I don't find them tough generally. But epoxy has an excellent bonding to PC, and it can be found in all kind of viscosities. UV protecting and not protecting. It has no chemical impact to PC, as there are no VOC's in epoxy.
Im in the process of researching coatings for rubber grips on my sim racing wheels. I've used plast-dip in the past without success (too much rubbing on high wear areas) and Sugru for coating the grips completely with great success (albeit not very nice appearance). How does the Bully liner compare in terms of feeling/durometer, and could it be used to coat a steering wheel grip (textured or untextured)?
I'd love to know how the bully liner holds up, my hilux needs some more interior coating sprayed, and in the fenderwells
The liner on the guards survived a day off in the bush without problems. plenty of videos on TH-cam of people taking tools to the coating to test it if you want to check it out.
PlastiDip works fairly well also and I used for the dual SH72 tweezer build grips... just not so smoothly if from the bottom of the can and sort of old. I've never used the spray version and I guess that would work better. PlastiDip has nasty effusia, so make sure to use outdoors or use proper PPE. Thanks for sharing!
I'm curious how well these sand, though. Like, would these be a good replacement for filler primer as a preparatory substance for post-processing?
Would Flex Seal work with this sort of thing too?
I'm not even finding this bitumen product from US retailers. I'm thinking our equivalent may be flex seal or plasti dip, or some other name...
is there a difference in adhesion between applying these on PLA, vs other filaments, like ApolloX ASA+?
Wonder how it would act with 100 percent infill, and then fully coated with bed liner(bully coating). The design would probably stay close to exact.
Michael, I don't know if it's availible in Aus but I like Sayerlack 2K polyurethane coatings made by Sherwin-Williams. A base coat fills imperfections very well followed by a top coat of 100% mat in any RAL colour. Still far finer texture than you show with Bully.
Only issue is you need a spray gun IMO to get a even texture. Also I think 5L is the minimum qty. unless that's just my supplier.
P.S. IME no contest between 2-part and 1-part. 1-part tends to loose up to 50% volume when curing. 2-part is near 100% solids. Durability of 2-part is also off the chart IME.
Coudl you please test one of double extruder kits for ender 3? My layers laying on the supports are awfull so I was wandering about pla+disposable material for supports. Or maybe just a video about support interface patterns?
Try lowering the gap between your print and the supports.
The lower the gap the less the supports can fall. Higher gap is easier to remove but less support
Would a small roller also work for application? The texture may be superior compared to the brush
Have you tried a low power abrasive blaster(sand blaster)as an alternative to sanding???You could just add really fine sand in whatever paint you'd usual use.ThankQ.TkEZ>UK
Do you have a recommendation for a FDM 3d printer priced around $400 for a beginner in 2021? I'm wanting it for general use, printing things from miniatures for D&D to RC airplanes and usable parts. I'm thinking a build volume of at least 250x250x300 or larger.
It could be an ideal product to anneal PLA and keep its dimensional accuracy. Could you test that?
IDK why but now I want to try this with Flex Seal spray
Gr8 video, but wear and impact test would be have been helpful. Thinking painting under my 4b in bitumen, as it a lot cheaper, cheers
Hi! My wonder coating is a product named Plastic Dip- pretty much the same stuff you have shown here. Available in a variety of colors and there are also frosted and semi gloss transparent versions.. is used extensively for Car rims..just search Plastic Dip and you will find lots of info on utube. Cheers!!
Hi, I've printed some exterior light mounts for my 4x4 in Prusament PC Blend. Now after doing some research I've found out it's not the most UV resistant.
Do you know if this bullyliner is safe for PC Blend and won't affect its strength? Or do you have any suggestions?
Much appreciated
This is a really interesting product. Now the question is : although you don't like sanding, can it be sanded, even lightly, to improve surface roughness for some uses?
If bully liner is brushed on, will it be textured of smooth?
7:21 ... You could eliminate the need to wash your hands by using disposable gloves.
Lesson of the day: wear gloves
I wonder if the bully liner would go through an airbrush. I'm guessing it's too thick, but if not that would make it much easier to get an even coat.
I was thinking a sponge might be good.
It could probably be thinner easily though how well it would work after thinnng...
I've been using "Stop That Leak" spray by 151 for over a year now with great results, however, it, and all of the other leak sealer sprays have tripled in price since I bought mine, yay Brexit... Not. :/
The bitumen paint @ 1:1 is meant to be thin as it's typically being applied onto a porous surface, which is something PLA is not, as you've found out. :P
I wonder if it's possible to smooth this coating? Or if there's a method to smooth it on?
Maybe you could make a mini sand blasting box and use filer primer and smooth it with a fine grain, or that polysmooth PLA
In order to make your prints more heat resistant, you may consider trying something akin to wrapping the model with aluminum foil then putting the coating of liner (or maybe put a coat of bully liner, then the aluminum foil or similar, then a few more coats of bully liner). Aluminum foil isn't the perfect solution for complex models, but there are probably products that have the same effect as aluminum foil, maybe some paints?
Line X and Rhino Linings are other brands of this fun stuff.
R they water based? There y bully so much better.
You should do a video on ArchWelding!
For the heat, print hollow, then fill with cement and coat with the bully?
That's a really interesting idea. I think the outer coating would need to be really thick for it not to deform when the PLA was melted out.
Do you guys not have plastidip in Australia? Seems like it would be WAY less hassle with the same results since you could just dunk the whole print and let the excess run off.
I have to imagine someone has tried this already, but I just got into 3D printing so idk.
Seems like an interesting product, for the right application, but I would think something like XTC 3D would be more appropriate for smaller objects.
You should try spraying prints with a conductive paint and then electroplating them.
Raptor Liner is amazing. But in this application, Bully is a better alternative.
I use plasti dip spray .. works great!
What if they made a Hot End with a 4 sided thermoelectric cooler? Very hot on the inside & pretty cold on the outside. Then the part cooling fan would be blowing cold air on the part.
I wonder if adding carbon to darken the color would have an impact on its properties.
Could the bully liner be sanded?
I'm not a big fan of bully used on a truck. Like rhino liner cold spray they tend to not work the best for moving heavy heavy loads. I think you might have found the best use for a cold spray yet! Move it toward 3D printing parts and reinforcing them!
Liked for the Ayrton Senna T-shirt , but good content :)
The Suzuki Sierra is the GOAT
Pro gamer moment
You should have made a 4th test, with normal acryllic paint :)
What was the temp the final temp before they fell over?
I'm curious how sandblasting affects layer lines? And how about CO2 blasting? Not technically sanding.... Right?
Me too but I don't have a sandblaster (however I'd rather but one than sand by hand).
I'm so early, the title is still "335 bully liner coating".
My bad :(
Ok, now I need to know how many holes you can have in the hull without it sinking (with no weight in it)
Right!? And the specifics of shape/size as relates to breaking surface tension.
You could try Plastidip or Poly-props Seal Prime
Wouldn't flex seal be best?
How does the PlastiDip product hold up? Wouldn't mind seeing that.
Have you tried Plasti-Dip or clear nail polish?
what about flex seal?
Adding a tiny bit of detergent to the thinned bitumen liner.
It lets water cling to the printed part, rather than run off.
The cling improves adhesion after drying.
2-3 drops per small batch of paint.
That's an awesome tip, thanks very much.
HEY MIKE POST ANY PROGRESS ON YOUR V1 ENGINEERING CNC WITH S DIODE LASER OR YOUR K40!
This happened (read the description): th-cam.com/video/RrzrBclm8P8/w-d-xo.html
So I ended up getting a Chinese co2 laser which I'm, happy with: th-cam.com/video/Gc_1jDVRKEQ/w-d-xo.html
Lowrider2 still operation, now has wired vs cordless router and may be used to make some parts for this car.