Printing in Clay With The Tronxy Moore 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 พ.ค. 2024
- NOTE: This is an early production unit and I will be sharing my feedback with Tronxy to help improve this product.
Overall I'm very impressed with this printer. Clay is a great material to work with, and I can see this printer having some major commercial and artistic applications for small ceramics studios.
Here are some links to the products I used in this video (Contains Affiliate Links):
Tronxy 3D Printers:
www.tronxy3d.com/?ref=NBR
(Use Coupon Code NBR For an extra 2% off)
Tronxy Moore 1:
www.tronxy3d.com/products/tro...
Hardboard (the stuff that clipboards are made of):
amzn.to/3nCdhjP
Also dirt-cheap at Home Depot/Lowes
Hand Tools:
Dremel: amzn.to/3GYT6nK
Knipex Cobra Pliers: amzn.to/32c0tcC
Large Microwaveable Kiln:
www.tronxy3d.com/products/mic...
Small Microwaveable Kiln:
amzn.to/3GEhkDV
No-Fire Glaze: amzn.to/3FFyzn9
Tronxy clay (I would recommend buying clay in bulk locally as it is expensive to buy in small quantities from Tronxy):
www.tronxy3d.com/products/the...
Much cheaper clay (50 lb bag of smooth clay, enough for ~200 medium sized prints)
amzn.to/3GF6rSr
Clay costs about $1 per pound from a local supplier. Most art stores or ceramics supply stores will have it in stock. The clay sent by Tronxy has little to no sand or grog added. I'm guessing this helps with extrusion, so ask for a "smooth" clay if you want a similar clay.
Notes on firing:
Firing is a very complex process. If you are having pieces fired by a ceramics studio it is important to know the "cone", or firing temperature, of your clay. If the clay is too low temperature it can completely melt and cause catastrophic damage to their kiln. I would hold on to the clay label, or buy it through the studio so they know you are using the correct clay.
I am planning a follow-up video on glazing. Stay tuned for that!
I can also cover the fundamentals of clay working if there is interest (let me know in the comments if you want to see that)!
Chapters
Introduction :(0:00)
Assembly: (0:30)
Loading Clay: (3:12)
Day 1 Prints: (8:05)
Day 2 Prints: (9:51)
Pro Tips: (12:39)
Day 3 Prints: (18:06)
Bisque Firing: (20:23)
Conclusion: (24:58) - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Gave you a thumbs up for your honesty about how hard clay is to print
Thanks for leaving in your mistakes. Mistakes are learning in progress, nothing to be embarrassed about. Great video!
And people think resin printing is messy
Haha I have a resin one and yea it's messi but not that bad it's just the toxicity of the resin , while this one you can clean everything with water and no gloves !
I have a Eazao Zero ,really liked it ,had it a month and it is already coming apart. Might should of bought this one.
They look pretty much identical, don’t they?
Nathan, I was happy to see you not only stick with your attempts to achieve success; but, show us the less than successful attempts. One of the greatest life lessons that 3D printing can teach us is that "Failures are not final". And, the tenacity and critical thinking that is plain to see in this video makes that point in an interesting and fun way. I plan to show it to my 3D design and printing students.
I REALLY liked this video. Nice!
It was also cool to see Eazao contributing suggestions to try in future explorations.
Please keep adding videos about your ceramic printing progress.
Thanks! I try to give people a real sense of what is like to use these things. It's not plug-and-play, but it is very rewarding once you get it working.
I have 2 follow up videos planned with the Moore 1, one about Glazing (a 2-minute primer on the material science of glaze would be interesting), and 3d printing with cement.
An excellent review, thanks! 👍
You're welcome! Clay is fun, but a lot of work.
So far I am loving mine :)
Nice work congrats ! Thanks
Once you got the clay consistancy dialed in I would have liked to have seen a vase with its bottom printed by the machine but I guess there will be more videos to come, it will be interesting to see how this product develops!
I should have done that, but I think it would take some hours of tuning to get it dialed in correctly.
Plus it pains me to watch a machine do something poorly when I can just do myself in 30 seconds.
There is definitely more stuff I want to try. I at least want to print a porcelean benchy, and do some glazing before I retire this machine.
Didn't even know these (kind of printer in desktop form) were a thing, this is soo cool dude!
Glad I could bring it to your attention! If these were around when I was in college I totally would have convinced my lab or ceramics studio to get one so I could print a bunch of paraphernalia.
Next up for this topic is trying to print with concrete, and glazing the pottery.
Very informative video. I found it enjoyable, even though I'm neither into 3d printing or ceramics. You obviously know your stuff.
Both are great hobbies. You could call me the hobby-master!
I wonder what other types of clay or clay-like substances you could use this for?
man this video was really fun and entertaining, I'm curious what you can make next with this printer
Concrete! At least that's my goal.
Useful content.. How do you place plates in kiln, a bigger one is needed? Can you explain how you feed the required design into printer, name of 3D design software, etc ?
I don't know why but these videos are just comedy gold to me. I don't know if it's Nathan's reactions to all the weird gooey clay stuff, or the editing, or the dry humor, or all of the above. love your videos and this channel is a 3d printing youtube gem. Question: You do a ton of modding and upgrades on 3d printers but what do you use these printers to print? Are you just a fan of tinkering on printers or do you have other 3d printing projects?
"This Old Tony" is a big inspiration for my presentation style, if you aren't subscribed to him yet I'd highly recommend checking out his channel.
I usually have one primary working printer that I use for design prototyping at my day job. Last year I was mostly using the Fokoos Odin, but after making my review of the Phaetus Rapido I've been using that (on the Artillery Hornet) almost exclusively.
Occasionally I'll fire up a 2nd machine to increase throughput. In those cases the Ender 3000 is my favorite because it cranks out large solid infill parts, which is incredibly useful. I don't have to worry about warping because it prints the parts out so fast that they don't have time to cool and warp significantly. Its pretty much the same effect as a heated build chamber
Glad you are enjoying the content! I'm wrapping up a video for a laser engraver that has really impressed me. I will also be trying out some skit work and new production techniques in that video, so stay tuned!
Ah yes, the problems of 3D printing with the mess of pottery and the added benefit of layer separation destroying your print and sending the result straight to the dumpster! 🤣
You can recycle things a lot easier, just add water!
Can you share the technical information that is fixed on the metal sheet or sticker that is on the blue reducer?
This is great experiment including cleaning tips. Do you have a bit more details about turning up the motor? I got really stiff part of clay, and I try to clean up the head, soaking the bottom, etc... but I want to increase the speed so it might rotate faster
Yes, you want to change your slicer settings to increase extrusion width.
This will make your printer assign a higher extruder motor speed, just like with a filament fed machine
0.0 this give me hope >
Long shot. Coulf you print a bird bath with this? Make aligned supports using a plastic printer, the print it in pieces? Would you be able to make interconnected pieces that still fit after firing? Are kilns even big enough for this type of thing? Or would it just break?
Wait could you load cement/concrete into here? Would it set in time? I have soooo many questions.
I wonder about using plaster instead of clay and cura's mold feature to create the shell of a mold and later reinforce it with more plaster to allow the use of actual slip.
that is fantastic mate
I was considering getting one to make small rocket stoves 8^)
Nice. You can always poke holes in the part as a post processing step, to make it easier to print
Use 4 blue lasers for drying up the surface under the nozzle
Thats a great printer. We are planning to build a ceramic 3D Printer based on a model like Ender 3 and are looking for the perfect fit extruder. We tried many ways but werent able to design the best one.Where could we get just the extruder for this purpose?
Did you find what you were looking for? Do you think its possible to create an energy collecting device out of clay like the Persian yakhalt or a ceramic green energy collector.
🎯 Key Takeaways for quick navigation:
00:00 🏺 Tronxy Moore 1 is a clay 3D printer that extrudes clay to create pottery and ceramics.
01:24 🧰 Assembling the printer involves installing a lead screw and preparing the clay cartridge.
03:19 🎨 Proper clay consistency and bubble removal are crucial for successful 3D printing.
08:12 🪣 The printer starts printing without preheating, and maintaining the right clay consistency is essential.
09:28 🍶 After printing, you can post-process the clay objects by smoothing, coloring, or adding texture.
15:47 🔧 Cleaning and maintaining the printer is important to prevent clogs and ensure consistent printing.
19:56 🔄 Combining handwork and 3D printing with clay allows for flexibility and customization in creating ceramic pieces.
20:10 🔥 Firing ceramics requires a thorough drying process before using a microwave kiln or traditional pottery kiln.
20:39 💰 Traditional pottery kilns can cost hundreds to thousands of dollars, but microwave kilns provide a cheaper option for firing ceramics at home.
23:16 🍽️ Ceramics in their fired state are still porous and not food-safe until glazed, which provides a smooth, non-porous surface.
25:36 🏺 The Tronxy Moore 3D printer for clay offers a unique intersection of pottery and 3D printing, suitable for those with backgrounds in both fields, but not recommended as a first 3D printer due to its learning curve. It's also a valuable tool for professional potters and can create complex geometries.
Made with HARPA AI
Hello, nice Vid! When you said you did a chip in the printer for the Models, in what kind of format did you had you data? thanks!
I slice things in Cura using vase mode. You'll have to play around with print speed, line width, and layer height to get the best results.
Name the useful plasticizers and additives please. Do you think it's good idea to carry the dried fragile clay to studio for firing ? What is the price of this and how do you compare this one with Eazao printer ? Is it available for wholesale price from a distributor?
What clay should I use for it? Does it support Stl files?
Can you add grog?
Cookie dough!!!
I want a vase shaped cookie, slow cooked so it doesn't collapse.
Or christmas cookie decoration! 3d frosting patterns
It's great to see more and more attention to ceramic 3D printing. In the video, the model is seen collapsing in the final stages due to the fact that the clay is too soft.
On the one hand, you can use a heat gun to speed up the solidification of the clay during printing, and on the other hand, you can use a harder clay during the loading stage. But if the clay is too hard, I'm worried that the feeding structure of this equipment can't bear it, and the sheet metal fixing the cartridge will break.
In the video, the electric push rod makes many abnormal noises. This is because the motor cannot be pushed. You can replace the high-power motor driver or replace the reducer model. Here is a judging indicator for clay: th-cam.com/video/NYi6CyIB8_0/w-d-xo.html
Interesting, I could not think of a way to quantify the clay's consistency but using a syringe makes sense. I turned up the stepper driver and the motor was pushing the clay very effectively during my last batch (most of it wasn't filmed, but it's where I made the 3 nicest pieces at the end).
The Persian yakhalt is a solar-thermal energy device used as a fridge made out of mud. If you could make the 3D printer itself mostly out of clay, and you could grab random dirt and turn it into clay and print out a clay energy collector and another 3D printer you could keep on doing it to make the clay printer (or clay printer complex) replicate, allowing you to turn huge dirt fields into clay printers / energy collectors.
Those are cool! Never heard of them until now. But a lot can be done with evaporative cooling
Trying to make a 3d printer out of clay is incredibly impractical
Hey Nathan, nice informative video! One Question, do you think this machine is able to make some nice molds in clay or ideally ceramics for aluminum casting? The parts should be geometrically correct, surface quality isn't the issue since they would get milled anyways.
I now use lost PLA casting wich is a cumbersome process.
Thanks in advance.
I am not sure on that. This printer is much more restrictive with overhang angles, and I imagine the parts would break from thermal stresses if aluminum was poured into them.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Yes, i would go for a ceramics batch, which they advertise besides clay. Can you even compare the geometric accuracy to something out of a regular 3d printer? Or is it really only for non technical stuff?
@@bogeydope3022 if you got it dialed in it could be about as accurate as a normal FDM printer, but you also have to factor in shrinkage, which will vary based on the exact water content of the clay. So it's a little harder to control. What kind of tolerance do you need?
@@NathanBuildsRobots Sound's good. I need about +-0,5 mm tolerance, since all surfaces will get milled after casting. I achieve with the lost PLA casting around +-0,1mm, but the process isn't always successful and it's a ton of work too.
What i really need is at least a reasonable flat surface to put them in the vise.
I'm just looking for a quick way of making lost casting molds for aluminum alloys. The parts are about 5 x 2 inches and vary in thickness at around 2 inches, so it's in the specs of the machine.
@@bogeydope3022 Sounds interesting. Can you join my Discord server? Will be easier to chat there:
www.nathanbuildsrobots.com/contact
Are they going to send you a Matrix printer to review?
Where do I buy the clay from please
How do you get rid of the layer lines? Theyd look pretty apparent in smooth surfaces and.., ugly
Do you still use this printer? How has it held up?
I am way more interested in seeing you make 3d PLA reusable molds for clay ceramics
3D printing can have a lot of applications in a ceramics studio. I'm thinking of all the molds, stamps, tools, rollers, extruder dies, etc that people buy to use for specific projects.
Plaster of Paris is an ideal material for mold making since parts dry and release automatically but 3D printed parts would work in a pinch, and require a less time to build.
Or you could use a 3d printed part to make a plaster mold.
Maybe there is some kind of mold release that would make plastic work just as well.
I've got one of these, and I can not get it to print. The clay keeps solidifying in the nozzle. How do I prevent this?
Probably need to add more water. It needs to be cleaned out when not in use
It’s at 0.7, I’m going to adjust this to 5
*Breaks*
🤯
You should print a (very tiny) house!
That would be fun to do an architectural scale model using the same methods they use in real house printing
This video, has been a what not to do. But I leant many things.
What is plastizer
Did you glaze them in the microwave?
I have not tried glazing yet. I don't know what temperature the microwave kiln is designed for. It looked like it was at 1700-1800 F based on the color, but at that temperature the kilns will develop cracks and fall apart over time. I'm going to turn my microwave down a little bit so the kilns last longer 1100 watts was too much, maybe I should stick with 700 watts.
I'm going to have to read up on low temperature glazes to see if it can be done at home. The glaze I used in this video is essentially an acrylic paint that did not require firing, which is a new concept to me!.
yes, i think should glazing them put into the microwave to fired it.
hallo when you make your traditional pottery...Do you use GLOVES too? ? :)) I hope not ;)
Do you think I could run an oil based clay through it?
Probably not, from what I know about oil based clay it is much thicker. But if you “watered it down” or oiled it down enough, it might work
You'd think it would be better if the bed didn't move around to help prevent the soft clay model from deforming or collapsing.
Definitely, it's like a mini earthquake simulator, so larger and softer models are not as stable. But for the most part it works - as long as the clay is thick enough and the print accelerations are low enough.
That plastic tube looks totally shagadellic yeah baby yeah!
th-cam.com/video/pUJCNoLmRO4/w-d-xo.html
Or
th-cam.com/video/CpiP_jN1Pv4/w-d-xo.html
?
honestly. I think it's just easier to print a plastic model and make a plaster mold for slip molding.
For 90% of applications I agree. It's really a niche product, but offers a lot of room for creativity. This could be handy for 1-offs, or shapes that can not be easily slip cast.
The layered texture it produces is pretty interesting and I kind of wanted to do a gradient, with red clay on one end of the tube and white on the other so it fades from one color to another color.
so what special about the microwave oven
It seems easier to use a burnout filament and cast plaster around it to do a slipcast.
Very interesting, but the journey to printing something looks like a very big headache
Moving bed with clay makes me sad :/
Tronxy Moore 1 hawe next 7 problems.
1- on delivery Z edstop its broken and turn by side - fix its simple change endstop to other.
2- parts when connect worm gear and clay feeeder stepper motor hawe bad size and not transfer rotation to clay tube ad make clicking noice. Fix - 6 dolars and buy next one its 8 to 11mm. Factory broken parts mayby on all Moore1
3- firmware from edition 1 ad cura - firmware and default config from tronxy its broken must upgrade or printing speed from all g-code its 10mm/s.
4- worm gear hawe reduction 1:7 and its weak this same product on Eazao its 1:30 and working better- no heating motor no 0.7 or 0- somthing feeding controll speed.
5-extruder extreme heating self on 10 minutes works.
6-Time to warranty its only 3 month
7-Customers support on tronxy cannot identify brokend parts from month 11/2021 to today +- 3 month emailing videos sending and nothing. Tronxy support its very very unfriendly and when you give him all broken parts you must buy him on other place. No change parts from tronxy side.
This printer its broken toys and not usable. Mayby i hawe only one totaly bad pcs or its all this produst thats broken i dont know.
Is pretty tricky to get working compared to a plastic printer. I had to mess around a lot with the clay thickness, and turned up the vref on the stepper motor driver for the plastic tube. It can handle a lot more current with how massive the stepper motor is, so it may even need a larger stepper driver. Or if they used a skinnier tube, the same motor would produce more pressure, since pressure = force / area
I think I understand that you have this tronxy and an eazao. Do you prefer the eazao? I am debating about which one to purchase.
@@RichardWJames eazao hawe better clay push extruder. Printer its crafted for booth seller in one factory and hawe this same inside soft and this same child fails. If you little understand 3D printers mayby its better craft air force push clay device and any 3d printer what you need its cheeper. when you need little help on this write mi i send you somthing ideas.
nice toy , but messy
It turns any room into a mud room
u are sweet