Thanks. Me and my son used this to make the fix. We used the TRQ parts and they all looked and felt to be of good quality. We decided to go ahead and replace the drive shafts, seals, bearings, hubs and nuckles. Got it done for a fraction of the price of outsourcing the work and now have a harbor freight press in the garage for future projects.
Great video. If you live in an area near or above the "rust belt" be prepared to have to get a few new parts as well. I had to get a wheel speed sensor, steering knuckle, and snap ring. Mine were all rusted together. The job entailed getting a new bearing, hub, knuckle, snap ring, lower ball joint, and wheel speed sensor.
Great video, excellent explanation but it looked somewhat challenging, I have butterflies on my stomach now. Don’t know if I will succeed. You made it look so easy but you have the tools, I wonder how to improvise on some of the steps 🤔 Well, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us, that helps a lot. Now it’s time to make a decision whether to make that attempt or pass it on 😬
the Brake Dust Shield, it is a PITA as it is between the hub and the bearing and had to remove the hub before I could get the 3 Phillip screws out, It was in the way of everything. Also I had to cut off and drill out the ABS sensor as it was rusted in (even though it is plastic) This job fought all the way the bearing did not want to budge, the race did not budge, used a torch, pullers, and a big big hammer, took 2 hours to get every thing out and apart, and only about 20 minute to get it all back together.
The steps remove the tire use 19mm wrench and 14 mm socket remove caliper bolts remove from bracket and hang it remove pads more caliper bracket 19mm socket take bracket off remove screws on rotor remove the rotor take abs sensor out with 10mm socket remove sensor carefully with tool of choices 36mm socket take nut off disconnect outer tire road end remove coter pin 18 mm socket remove nut remove outer tie road end from nuckle mark location of sturt bolts/nuts 19 mm wrench 22 mm impact remove both nuts use punch and hammer remove bolts from struts use 17mm socket to remove 3 nuts on bottom of ball joint (if you don't need to replace it) press the bearing and the hub out of the nuckle press new bearing in make sure the correct side is facing the abs "READ IT AGAIN" replace snap ring with new one intall the hub(I opted to have a shop do this part) install nuckle with new bearing and hub attach ball joint nuts torque late nuckle into the strut install bolts and nuts for the strut intall tie road torque ball join 38fp struts to 116fp 19mm wrench on bolt torque outter tie road to 40 fps install new cotter pin bend and trim lube center nut with oil (use a new one) use pry bar to hold hub torque 242fp install wheel speed sensor/ abs in the nuckle clean new rotor and install install the screws into rotor snug put caliper bracket in install the bolts 101fp install the brake bads compress brake caliper with tool put caliper over brake pads install bolts torque to 37fp use 19mm wrench on stud install wheels torque to 80 fps pump up brakes check brake fluid level
Nice video. The only suggestion I could recommend is to remove the heat shield before pressing out the bearing so it doesnt get bent up and if you live in the rust belt have an ABS sensor handy. They dont always come out because of rust and have to be drilled out.
Hi can you help me with a couple of questions I have with this video. How many tons is the press machine? Also what did he use for the socket that he put there to press the old bearing out? Where did he get the red circle thing he put under the new bearing when pressing it in?
Unfortunately you can't remove the shield until the hub is pressed out. I found it helped to remove cut the studs off and knock the out and the remove the shield screws to get it flat and secure on the press.
Not many home mechs have press. Don't think its necessary to remove bearings and hub from vehicle. Just press it out in place. This video is more designed to discourage DIY's. There are better TH-cams on this subject.
I'm having a problem lining up installing the wheel bearing assembly n strut bolts lining up, the strut seems to have turned the left to much!! How can I line up !? Do I move the strut? Thank you n yiu did a good job
See how easy you pushed the bearing out? Ummm yeah not everyone has a cut in 1/2 brake drum or rotor to rest the steering knuckle on. Here's an idea, how's about you tell TRQ to sell a steering knuckle, hub, and wheel bearing assembly so you can just swap out the whole thing as a unit for the 2016 Gen? Good videos though guys! I've learned a lot, unfortunately I'm stuck at trying to get the bearing out 😂...
Once the new hub is installed into the bearing, how easy should it be to spin? I've seen some videos where it spins effortlessly, but I just did mine and it requires a fair amount of effort, and it looks like it does in your's too. I don't think it's possible to have pressed it in too far, right?
He installed a brand new hub. In the past I always put in a new hub as well as they're not that expensive and it can be tricky getting the inner race off the hub. Plus if I'm going to do this job may as well have a new hub so there's one less thing to worry about later on.
Hi can you help me with a couple of questions I have with this video. How many tons is the press machine? Also what did he use for the socket that he put there to press the old bearing out? Where did he get the red circle thing he put under the new bearing when pressing it in?
Good video, but it’d be nice if they actually explained why you would need to get this done. What are the issues symptoms that indicate needing to replace??
can you list all the tools needed to buy for this job? like where did you get the red circle thing that you put underneath so the bearing didnt get pushed down? also is it required that I buy a press like you have? I'm not a mechanic this would be totally new installing for me
@@skygoing82 okay I did buy the whole hub aassembly but he still uses a press to to remove the bearing and to put in the bearing and the new wheel hub.
He meant that the holes could be bigger than the size of the bolts allowing the struts to have some play and this play can change your alignment depending on how you reposition those bolts.
20 ton press is standard for wheel bearings. The socket was a large size probably half inch drive that is just barely smaller than the hub stem itself. The red plate is probably from either a wheel bearing press kit or seal service kit.
My car sounds like it has a bear in the engine Bay of my Civic. It gets louder when I go above 50 mph. I now time to make sure to see if it's the Hub or the bearing or both
Be sure to torque the axle nut *before* putting the wheel on or transferring any weight onto the bearing. Otherwise you will make junk out of your new wheel bearing.
How to tell when the bearings going bad and how to tell when the Hub is going bad? I don't hear no grinding or metal Shaving noise but sounds like a bear in the engine bay when car goes faster
Generally a bad bearing noise while driving will sound like a low tone growl and will change with speed. You can also tell what side is bad depending on what side is loaded when you turn. When turning to the left around a corner if it gets louder then it's the passenger side.
!!!!This video is telling you to install the wheel bearing incorrectly!!! He instructs you to install the bearing with the magnetic side pointing outwards. Why would the magnetic side be facing the wheel when the pick-up sensor sits behind the bearing, inward. Follow his instructions and you’ll have a Christmas tree on the dash. Install the magnetic side inward, or facing the pick-up sensor. (Which may be the reason why he’s stating to orientate down
My vehicle don't even have abs but I thought that was backwards.. I've watched multiple trq videos and they did it completly different in both videos. And I was sent two different wheel bearings so idk wtf to do now. Gonna go to local store and see what wheel bearings they have
This does nothing to the common man because most people don't have these type of tools in their sheds this is really dum cant show any Other way to do it
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
i guess I'm kinda randomly asking but does anyone know a good site to watch new series online?
Cutting the rotor in half and using it to hold the spindle. GENIUS. Just did it and it worked flawlessly. Thanks for the video!
You make doing the snap ring look so easy. Nothing and I mean NOTHING on earth has given me as big of a problem as the snap ring has.
Thanks. Me and my son used this to make the fix. We used the TRQ parts and they all looked and felt to be of good quality. We decided to go ahead and replace the drive shafts, seals, bearings, hubs and nuckles. Got it done for a fraction of the price of outsourcing the work and now have a harbor freight press in the garage for future projects.
This video is awesome! Great work TRQ! Only thing missing is the list of tools that I would need to finish the job
Great video.
If you live in an area near or above the "rust belt" be prepared to have to get a few new parts as well. I had to get a wheel speed sensor, steering knuckle, and snap ring. Mine were all rusted together. The job entailed getting a new bearing, hub, knuckle, snap ring, lower ball joint, and wheel speed sensor.
Yep gonna let the mechanic handle this one 😆
Absolutely Well Done! Instructions, Camera, all of it!
Great video, excellent explanation but it looked somewhat challenging, I have butterflies on my stomach now. Don’t know if I will succeed. You made it look so easy but you have the tools, I wonder how to improvise on some of the steps 🤔 Well, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with us, that helps a lot. Now it’s time to make a decision whether to make that attempt or pass it on 😬
Excellent video, detailed instruction along with great camera shots.
Im a Honda tech,and I preform the repair the same way.Perfect demo.
I like how detailed this "How To" video is. Thanks!
do you know the tools he used. I want to do this but some I'm not sure where he got like the center disc thing he used on the press
love the way that hub slides onto the shaft so easy, nothing like new parts...not reality...
the Brake Dust Shield, it is a PITA as it is between the hub and the bearing and had to remove the hub before I could get the 3 Phillip screws out, It was in the way of everything. Also I had to cut off and drill out the ABS sensor as it was rusted in (even though it is plastic) This job fought all the way the bearing did not want to budge, the race did not budge, used a torch, pullers, and a big big hammer, took 2 hours to get every thing out and apart, and only about 20 minute to get it all back together.
Hi !
Thanks for the VDO
The steps
remove the tire
use 19mm wrench and 14 mm socket remove caliper bolts
remove from bracket and hang it
remove pads
more caliper bracket 19mm socket
take bracket off
remove screws on rotor
remove the rotor
take abs sensor out with 10mm socket
remove sensor carefully with tool of choices
36mm socket take nut off
disconnect outer tire road end
remove coter pin
18 mm socket remove nut
remove outer tie road end from nuckle
mark location of sturt bolts/nuts
19 mm wrench 22 mm impact remove both nuts
use punch and hammer remove bolts from struts
use 17mm socket to remove 3 nuts on bottom of ball joint (if you don't need to replace it)
press the bearing and the hub out of the nuckle
press new bearing in make sure the correct side is facing the abs "READ IT AGAIN"
replace snap ring with new one
intall the hub(I opted to have a shop do this part)
install nuckle with new bearing and hub
attach ball joint nuts torque late
nuckle into the strut
install bolts and nuts for the strut
intall tie road
torque ball join 38fp
struts to 116fp 19mm wrench on bolt
torque outter tie road to 40 fps
install new cotter pin bend and trim
lube center nut with oil (use a new one)
use pry bar to hold hub
torque 242fp
install wheel speed sensor/ abs in the nuckle
clean new rotor and install
install the screws into rotor snug
put caliper bracket in
install the bolts 101fp
install the brake bads
compress brake caliper with tool
put caliper over brake pads
install bolts torque to 37fp
use 19mm wrench on stud
install wheels torque to 80 fps
pump up brakes
check brake fluid level
+Terrence Thomas Thanks for the feedback! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Nice video. The only suggestion I could recommend is to remove the heat shield before pressing out the bearing so it doesnt get bent up and if you live in the rust belt have an ABS sensor handy. They dont always come out because of rust and have to be drilled out.
Hi can you help me with a couple of questions I have with this video.
How many tons is the press machine? Also what did he use for the socket that he put there to press the old bearing out?
Where did he get the red circle thing he put under the new bearing when pressing it in?
@@hatersgotohell627 20 ton press
Unfortunately you can't remove the shield until the hub is pressed out. I found it helped to remove cut the studs off and knock the out and the remove the shield screws to get it flat and secure on the press.
Not many home mechs have press. Don't think its necessary to remove bearings and hub from vehicle. Just press it out in place. This video is more designed to discourage DIY's. There are better TH-cams on this subject.
I know he struggled with that wheel speed sensor when the next shot had wd40 all over it and a different set of pliers. Same story for mine as well
I'm having a problem lining up installing the wheel bearing assembly n strut bolts lining up, the strut seems to have turned the left to much!! How can I line up !? Do I move the strut? Thank you n yiu did a good job
Did you open the master cylinder when compressing the caliper? I always do, but you didn’t mention. Thanks….Jim
See how easy you pushed the bearing out? Ummm yeah not everyone has a cut in 1/2 brake drum or rotor to rest the steering knuckle on.
Here's an idea, how's about you tell TRQ to sell a steering knuckle, hub, and wheel bearing assembly so you can just swap out the whole thing as a unit for the 2016 Gen?
Good videos though guys! I've learned a lot, unfortunately I'm stuck at trying to get the bearing out 😂...
Once the new hub is installed into the bearing, how easy should it be to spin? I've seen some videos where it spins effortlessly, but I just did mine and it requires a fair amount of effort, and it looks like it does in your's too. I don't think it's possible to have pressed it in too far, right?
Excellent video.
Good video, thanks. Where can I find that brake piston compressing tool? I like that.
Would this be the same for a 2012? I can't find a video anywhere.
Very detail oriented. Thanks for sharing.
+Steve Lee Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Excellent video..
nice detail showing how to remove the bearing but how did you remove the bearing raise from the hub?
He installed a brand new hub. In the past I always put in a new hub as well as they're not that expensive and it can be tricky getting the inner race off the hub. Plus if I'm going to do this job may as well have a new hub so there's one less thing to worry about later on.
Do you have too replace thw whole hup or just the bearing
great vid! you deserve more views...
Perfectly detailed. Thanks mate!
Hi can you help me with a couple of questions I have with this video.
How many tons is the press machine? Also what did he use for the socket that he put there to press the old bearing out?
Where did he get the red circle thing he put under the new bearing when pressing it in?
Is this the same procedure to a 2014 crv Awd?
I just had my done on a 2008 honda crv when try to do 70 mph my steering wheel wheel starts to shake shake any idea why thanks.
Type3 and type 4 crvs.. front bearings are same?
Very good full detail.
Good video, but it’d be nice if they actually explained why you would need to get this done. What are the issues symptoms that indicate needing to replace??
Brilliant just want I was looking for thanks
can you list all the tools needed to buy for this job? like where did you get the red circle thing that you put underneath so the bearing didnt get pushed down? also is it required that I buy a press like you have? I'm not a mechanic this would be totally new installing for me
Spend a little more and just replace the whole hub assembly. You wont need to worry about a press or removing as much to do the job.
@@skygoing82 okay I did buy the whole hub aassembly but he still uses a press to to remove the bearing and to put in the bearing and the new wheel hub.
what do you mean when you sharpie it and say just in case these holes are slotted???
He meant that the holes could be bigger than the size of the bolts allowing the struts to have some play and this play can change your alignment depending on how you reposition those bolts.
Approximate hours and cost for this job at a shop?
Those abs sensors get frozen in the plastic won't handle any prying, be prepared to visit Honda dealer parts counter for replacements.
What is the cost if I take it to a local shop to do this work?
How many tons is the press machine? Also what did he use for the socket that he put there to press the old bearing out?
20 ton press is standard for wheel bearings. The socket was a large size probably half inch drive that is just barely smaller than the hub stem itself. The red plate is probably from either a wheel bearing press kit or seal service kit.
My car sounds like it has a bear in the engine Bay of my Civic. It gets louder when I go above 50 mph. I now time to make sure to see if it's the Hub or the bearing or both
How is the wheel NOT spinning when you take the hub-nut off??
what do you mean by slotted ? why did you marker that
what is the bearing press machine called?
Be sure to torque the axle nut *before* putting the wheel on or transferring any weight onto the bearing. Otherwise you will make junk out of your new wheel bearing.
How to tell when the bearings going bad and how to tell when the Hub is going bad? I don't hear no grinding or metal Shaving noise but sounds like a bear in the engine bay when car goes faster
Generally a bad bearing noise while driving will sound like a low tone growl and will change with speed. You can also tell what side is bad depending on what side is loaded when you turn. When turning to the left around a corner if it gets louder then it's the passenger side.
Nice video but it always pains me to see the hardware reinstalled dry
Nice!
i had to drill out my rotor screws so now theyre installed in the trash can lol
You forgot to reinstall the snapring
THAT IS NOT A COTTER PIN, ITS A SPLIT PIT, A COTTER PIN IS A TAPPER DOWL IT HAS A NUT AT ONE END, USED IN A CRANK IN A PUSH BIKE.
❤️❤️❤️❤️
No caliper grease? These brakes are gonna squeal sooner or later...
lower ball joints torque is 38 ft. pound, ? are you sure
+Imad Pola Thanks for watching! Yes those bolts should be tightened to 38 ft lb.
@@TRQ thank you
☘️🍀⭐🌟👍
!!!!This video is telling you to install the wheel bearing incorrectly!!!
He instructs you to install the bearing with the magnetic side pointing outwards. Why would the magnetic side be facing the wheel when the pick-up sensor sits behind the bearing, inward.
Follow his instructions and you’ll have a Christmas tree on the dash. Install the magnetic side inward, or facing the pick-up sensor. (Which may be the reason why he’s stating to orientate down
My vehicle don't even have abs but I thought that was backwards.. I've watched multiple trq videos and they did it completly different in both videos. And I was sent two different wheel bearings so idk wtf to do now. Gonna go to local store and see what wheel bearings they have
Wrong!! He instructs to fit the bearing with the ring facing down.. Once ita fitted it will then be on the inside
Clean rotor, flip over... immediately put large greasy palm print on clean rotor! ;)
77
This does nothing to the common man because most people don't have these type of tools in their sheds this is really dum cant show any Other way to do it