How To Replace Front Wheel Bearings WITHOUT A PRESS! | 2010 MAZDA 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- Today i will be showing you how to remove and replace the front wheel bearings on my 2010 Mazda 3 from home in my garage without using a shop press. It is definitely more labor intensive to do it this way but i didnt have the space for a press, so i went this route as i figured most people dont have their own press. This will work for many Makes and Models especially front wheel drive cars. Even some rear or 4 wheel drive will use the this style of press in wheel bearing. Dont cheap out on good quality front wheel bearings to avoid doing this again in the near future. Front wheel bearings are CHEAP! mazda 3 wheel bearing replacement
PARTS LIST:
Front Wheel Bearing: amzn.to/4bNwg1s
ABS Sensor: amzn.to/4azUVpk
Wheel Hub: amzn.to/3K9Abdc
Snap Ring: amzn.to/3V7D58Q
TOOLS LIST:
Hub Remover and Installer Kit: bit.ly/4dHCcei
Magnetic Induction Heater: amzn.to/3QUoefu
Milwaukee Impact: bit.ly/4dHCcei
Adjustable Wrench: amzn.to/4bKTZiR
1/2 In. Breaker Bar: amzn.to/44U6ma7
1/2 In. Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3V9o4TL
3/8 In. Torque Wrench: amzn.to/3V74MP4
TORQUE SPECS:
Outer Tie Rod: 29-36 ft lbs.
Axle Nut: 175-202 ft lbs.
Lower Control Arm Ball Joint Retaining Bolt: 33-42 ft lbs.
Front Brake Caliper Bolts: 61-73 ft lbs.
CHECKOUT OBDELEVEN HERE!
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CHECKOUT ECOFLOW PORTABLE POWER STATION HERE!
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Business Email: HaydenSchreier98@gmail.com
I appreciate all the help and support on this build! If you have any parts or tools for sale to help the build or if you wanted to send me something that I can unbox on the channel, let me know in the comments and I will open a P.O. Box!
Only person on youtube I've seen do it without a press and without destroying the parts to remove/install the bearing. Thank you, might have to do this next week on an 09 mazda 3.
No problem 👍 hope it helps!
I took my knuckle off the strut. Removed the ABS sensor. Cleaned up the knuckle. Warmed up the knuckle on the grill for a few minutes. Shut off the grill. The frozen bearing dropped in like butter. Put the retaining ring on. Put the knuckle back on the warm but turned off grill for a few minutes. Dropped the hub in like butter.
Had the extra work of taking the knuckle off (although I used that opportunity to clean it up and treat it with ospho) as well as the abs sensor, but it made the reassembly of the bearing and hub so easy without tools.
Great video!
haha thats awesome! But how did you get the old wheel bearing out?
Ugh. So glad a just bought a 2012 3. Same bearing is making noise. Man i miss my Impala. Was so easy to work on
these are fun and relatively easy if your car isnt rusted! this does require some tool. get a high powered impact from Harbor freight or Milwaukee and youll be good!
put the lower ball joint back into spindle to hold strut while using breaker bar. Also if no impact, pop center cap off before you lift car and break CV nut while car is in ground with breaker bar as well as the 5 lug nuts, then lift and jack stand it. great vid, may do this today. Just spent 2 hours on the driver side! This is tough work on an 08 as the spindle doesnt have level interference points for the horseshoe, you have to coble a spacer of the upper caliber bolt. I ran a nut into the bolt and pout it in for a 3/4 spacer so the shoe could rest on it. And the torque needed to break the spindle and the bearing race is scary! 26" breaker bar and I was almost standing on it (180 lbs) and it was barely moving until a big CRACK! and then it started to move. Of course the race came out with the hub and I dont have your induction heater so I have to grind it off very carefully with an angle grinder. The struts were the easiest part! Literally loosen that pinch bolt and hammer them off, you dont even need to take the LBJ or the caliper off, just the end link and the ABS/brake line bracket.
i wish you luck! you got this!
I don't even have a Mazda, I have a 2006 Forester XT, but dude those torque specs overlaid as you're putting it back together were CLUTCH. It's the little details like that which make a good video. Thanks so much for the tutorial -- How long did this take you for one wheel? I need to do all 4 on mine and I'm not looking forward to it.
i new it would help someone! i wanted a video tht had ALL the information in it, most videos online dont have it. i broke this into a 2 day part. i also have a video replacing the rear on my channel. Rust delays everything obviously. C clip was a pain and if you havent replaced other suspension components its a good time to do it while youre in their. Off camera i was able to do the right side bearing in about an hour-ish really not that bad.
Very informative video. Nice work 👍
Thanks man I was about to take wife's Mazda 3 to a shop, but your video is giving me the confidence to attempt this myself. Quick question, do you recommend an alignment after replacing the wheel bearing using your method?
With this method you shouldn’t have to. You aren’t touching the strut or the tie rod. If you remove the knuckle and use a press than probably a good idea. But once it’s all back together just drive the car and see if the wheels straight. If it is you’re good. If not then get an alignment! You really need a good powerful impact, Milwaukee or the high torque at harbor freight!
The O'Reilly's that provided you with the $400 tool *for free* can also provide the bearings. I think providing that $400 tool earns my business - even if the bearings cost $2 more there.
oreillys doesnt sell OEM or Timken bearings. that is why i did not go with them. i dont like using any other brand as i really dont want to do this again at least not for a long time. they sell masterpro which is chinese, not a fan. although their wheel hubs seem alright.
I just did this same job on my Ram 1500, also went with a Timken hub/bearing. Read the reviews of the O'Reilly hubs/bearings...you'll be doing the job again in 6 - 8 months. And they don't "provide" that $400 tool...you're esentially "buying" it then returning it for a refund. "Free" would mean that $400 didn't leave my account...but it did, and now 3 days after returning the tool I'm still waiting for the refund to hit my account.
@@kwb377 interesting i had purchased it on a CC and it was pending and then fell off
All these tools. This is all great info but as someone in an apartment with a socket set, 100 bucks, and nowhere to work on it except finding a parking lot, I find it quite daunting. I don't have access to any of these specialty tools or extra parts on my budget. For someone with the means, good vid tho.
Well if your budget is $100 then you’re not going to fix anything lol regardless of the tools or not. It’s easily $400+ to get a shop to do one side. If I was ballin on a budget, I’d rent the press at O’Reilly, go buy the highest powered impact at harbor freight or find the Milwaukee high impact one on facebook marketplace. They sell cheap. Get some impact sockets at HF and the cv axle one and a 3lb hammer. No need for pickle fork just wack the lower control arm and the ball joint will come out. As for parking lot. Go ask your local autozone, oreilly, advance auto parts. They usually will let you work in their lot and even let you borrow there tools for free.