I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an instagram account? I was dumb lost the password. I love any tips you can give me.
Do NOT put pressure on your shifter prior to shifting as he mentions. Quick way to damage shift forks. I didn't see any comment mention this and I'm actually somewhat shocked by that. 1:33 for ref.
Not "pressure" just enough to already get any slack in your setup. Any force will definitely damage something.. haven't had any issues doing it the way I have the last 7years.
Yeah, my dad taught me how to powershift in his big block 396 70 chevy Nova with the four speed muncie, was a mostly stock 396, 330 wheel hp. That car took abuse like nobodies business. Thats just how you shifted the cars of that era when racing (if you wanted to win.) I would never subject my Forester XT to the same thing, The Big block chevy and the Muncie four speed and 12 bolt rear end were massively overbuilt pieces of equipment, heavy duty shifter linkage, gears, and one of the best rear diffs chevy produced. Just a different ballgame with the tiny gears in the Subaru 5 speeds and the aluminum blocks with open decks of some of the EJ engines. This is evidently why COBB built this feature into the tuner to save the equipment to some degree. Love my Subaru, it hauls the groceries and it's got plenty of jam but I would never abuse it like the old chevy muscle. At the dragstrip with sticky rears on I used to stage, hold revs at 5000, at the last amber light I would juice it up to 6k and side step the clutch, right foot flat on the floor all the way down the track pounding through the gears.. Ah miss that..
There is a promo video from GM from the late 60’s, they are going from drive to reverse, in a 12’ line, back and forth, floored. Need less to say I was floored. They definitely can take abuse!
Alexander Vargus runs a 1100whp 2015+ Sti on stock trans and Comp clutch triple disk. I agree with you that they don't make engines/trans/diffs like how they used to.
I'm a little confused as to why you would set it so high at 6000RPM. If you're shifting at 6000 and the next gear brings it down to 4500-5000, wouldn't you want to set the flat foot shifting at 4500-5000 to mach the upshift better? I believe rev limit on these cars is 6700 anyway. So all the flat foot shifting is doing is having it bounce at 6000 instead of 6700? doesn't seem much of a difference. I have an Accessport but haven't used the flat foot shifting. I was planning on setting it at 4000-5000 though, that's why I ask.
If you set it at 4500 by the time you shift it won't be doing anything. It will be like you let off the gas. You want to set it at what you are shifting at.
@@AndersonDrift I wouldn't say it's not doing anything. It's instantaneously cutting off all fuel to the cylinders the instant you press the clutch in, and immediately restoring fuel delivery the instant you release the clutch, all while the throttle body and air flow stays wide open the whole time. You can't do that with your right foot. Even if you could be as quick, when you let off the gas pedal you are closing the throttle body which kills all boost. The program allows you to cut power while keeping throttle body open and maintaining boost, that's the difference. I can see where you're coming from though. It seems we just have different ideas on what the flat foot programming is trying to accomplish. For you it's meant to prevent over revving. For me it's a way to instantly cut power and reduce revs while maintaining boost
@@iongeo2500 when this is used I do not loose boost. It works to maintain rev so you don't over rev but also to maintain boost. It shows it in the video on my gauge.
@@iongeo2500 I agree with you on the boost levels maintaining because that's the main reason. But as for the RPM maybe it's personal preference. I've tried it with eats ways and prefer this feeling.
@@AndersonDrift I imagine it's a really strange feeling to leave the accelerator pedal planted while shifting. Is that a difficult habit to break with this setup?
I’m having an issue where I set it in my access-port but it will blow right passed the rpm and it doesn’t do what’s it’s suppose to ! Is that something that’s normal or some that that is maybe in my tune? It’s a e tune from a tuner so maybe he has it tuned out? Probably a dumb question but just thought I’d ask.
Hi! Noob question here. Will it also prevent the engine from going beyond the configured rpm (in your case 6,000 rpm) even if the clutch is not pressed? Let say I'm on 3rd gear and doing a pull and then the engine is already on 6,000 rpm and I still haven't pressed the clutch to shift gear, will it prevent the engine from going beyond 6,000 rpm?
I'm not familiar with running these types of setups (I run a 18 Q60 RS on JB4 etc) but I appreciate your video here and wanted to ask - the flat foot shift keeps the RPMs at a target # between shifts rather than dropping power as you're shifting? Also, can you set the # that it will hold at? Like yours was at 6500k for example, etc. Cool video nonetheless 8)
Basically it let's you power shift without the risk of over revving. No lift on throttle keeps boost levels up and helps you focus on just clutch/shift as well vs gas/clutch/shift. Mainly is to keep your boost levels up to reduce lag and help keep you consistent
I'm fairly new to this and still learning but I've always just shifted normally except to rev match downshift which I use a lot in corners can this only be done with a tune? Could this possibly be bad for your transmission or your clutch? Nevermind my question was answered at the very end. Pull the trigger too soon lol. It just sounds like it's not good for your car lol!
Engine breaking doesnt hurt 4 stroke engines, because the piston is not being lubricated by the fuel. If you did this on a 2 stroke dirt bike or something, it could blow the top end, but basically any manual transmission car it is perfectly safe to do it. Unless you have a 2 stroke car, in which case you would be a bad ass.
this needs tuning support because it requires a custom combustion cycle. so you need a tune for it. the tune will retard fuel and spark so the air can make it to the turbo and keep it spooled. The fuel cut is also necessary to keep the engine from exceeding RPM limits.
I didn't think fancy electronics were necessary to do this. I've done it without... Does it just limit the revs? What would be the difference between this and 2step?
MC5 Limited Skills if you don't have a tune, your car will not hold rpm during the shift. 2step is a form of launch control not flat foot shifting... If you try this without a flat foot shifting enabled tune, you won't have anything keeping your engine from redlining/blowing up. So don't do it without this tune
If you've done this before without lifting off the gas, that is called "powershifting" and is even worse on your car. I would recommend "quick shifting" until you get a tune for flatfoot. Here's an example in a mustang but it's the same concept th-cam.com/video/Cu8nasjg_WM/w-d-xo.html
Boosted Beauties Correct me if wrong but wasn't flat foot shifting a technique long before Cobb tuning or any similar products. I thought it simply meant that you were shifting with your foot flat on the gas. I can typically do it so fast that the clutch re engages On the 1st rev limit bounce.. Btw you need a foot cam
MC5 Limited Skills yes flat foot shifting can be done without cobb's software. However this video is how to use Cobb's flat foot shifting, which is why I'm using it in the video... If you don't want to use their software then you just have to shift quick enough that you don't blow your motor between shifts.
@@AndersonDrift bouncing off the factory rev limiter isn't going to "blow your motor" between shifts. its just hard on your driveline. thats literally why the factory rev limiter is there.
not if done properly. that being said, it takes a lot of practice to master it. he's shifting slower than you should using FFS. if you're shifting is timed properly, everything reengages smoothly and you keep accelerating. if your timing is off, you're shock loading your driveline.
@@AndersonDrift Slam the gears & dump the clutch dude. Performance clutches are like an on/off switch for a reason. You're bouncing revs for like an hour between shifts lol 😶 No hate but anything over .2-.5 seconds to shift while racing or doing a pull is considered slow.
With the flat-foot shifting, you may not be losing boost, but you may as well be (with all the time lost shifting too slowly). That much rev bouncing sounds painfully amateurish (again, no hate). Maybe you were just clearly demonstrating how the feature works? 👌
@@AndersonDrift I see. Very nice 🤙 just picked up a diff car with an AccessPort & was trying to see the features before getting out & messing with it. Thanks for vid.
"hey guys, its chad again" Spit out my water
mercsan117 ?
It was funny the way you said it. Hard to explain, you would've had to be here with me.
mercsan117 hahaah okay
I dont mean to be so offtopic but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an instagram account?
I was dumb lost the password. I love any tips you can give me.
@Rhett Ulises instablaster :)
Do NOT put pressure on your shifter prior to shifting as he mentions. Quick way to damage shift forks. I didn't see any comment mention this and I'm actually somewhat shocked by that.
1:33 for ref.
Not "pressure" just enough to already get any slack in your setup. Any force will definitely damage something.. haven't had any issues doing it the way I have the last 7years.
Yeah, my dad taught me how to powershift in his big block 396 70 chevy Nova with the four speed muncie, was a mostly stock 396, 330 wheel hp. That car took abuse like nobodies business. Thats just how you shifted the cars of that era when racing (if you wanted to win.) I would never subject my Forester XT to the same thing, The Big block chevy and the Muncie four speed and 12 bolt rear end were massively overbuilt pieces of equipment, heavy duty shifter linkage, gears, and one of the best rear diffs chevy produced. Just a different ballgame with the tiny gears in the Subaru 5 speeds and the aluminum blocks with open decks of some of the EJ engines. This is evidently why COBB built this feature into the tuner to save the equipment to some degree. Love my Subaru, it hauls the groceries and it's got plenty of jam but I would never abuse it like the old chevy muscle. At the dragstrip with sticky rears on I used to stage, hold revs at 5000, at the last amber light I would juice it up to 6k and side step the clutch, right foot flat on the floor all the way down the track pounding through the gears.. Ah miss that..
There is a promo video from GM from the late 60’s, they are going from drive to reverse, in a 12’ line, back and forth, floored. Need less to say I was floored. They definitely can take abuse!
Alexander Vargus runs a 1100whp 2015+ Sti on stock trans and Comp clutch triple disk.
I agree with you that they don't make engines/trans/diffs like how they used to.
When you should do it um maybe when your going to the grocery store lol.
Michigan Lefts are actually pretty nice imo, plus they reduce accident rates
1:00 Michigan Left, LOL ... same frustration here, having moved from NY.
what should i do for more power on my ej20 turbo put a bigger turbo?
I'm a little confused as to why you would set it so high at 6000RPM. If you're shifting at 6000 and the next gear brings it down to 4500-5000, wouldn't you want to set the flat foot shifting at 4500-5000 to mach the upshift better?
I believe rev limit on these cars is 6700 anyway. So all the flat foot shifting is doing is having it bounce at 6000 instead of 6700? doesn't seem much of a difference. I have an Accessport but haven't used the flat foot shifting. I was planning on setting it at 4000-5000 though, that's why I ask.
If you set it at 4500 by the time you shift it won't be doing anything. It will be like you let off the gas. You want to set it at what you are shifting at.
@@AndersonDrift I wouldn't say it's not doing anything. It's instantaneously cutting off all fuel to the cylinders the instant you press the clutch in, and immediately restoring fuel delivery the instant you release the clutch, all while the throttle body and air flow stays wide open the whole time. You can't do that with your right foot. Even if you could be as quick, when you let off the gas pedal you are closing the throttle body which kills all boost. The program allows you to cut power while keeping throttle body open and maintaining boost, that's the difference.
I can see where you're coming from though. It seems we just have different ideas on what the flat foot programming is trying to accomplish. For you it's meant to prevent over revving. For me it's a way to instantly cut power and reduce revs while maintaining boost
@@iongeo2500 when this is used I do not loose boost. It works to maintain rev so you don't over rev but also to maintain boost. It shows it in the video on my gauge.
@@iongeo2500 I agree with you on the boost levels maintaining because that's the main reason. But as for the RPM maybe it's personal preference. I've tried it with eats ways and prefer this feeling.
@@AndersonDrift I imagine it's a really strange feeling to leave the accelerator pedal planted while shifting. Is that a difficult habit to break with this setup?
I’m having an issue where I set it in my access-port but it will blow right passed the rpm and it doesn’t do what’s it’s suppose to ! Is that something that’s normal or some that that is maybe in my tune? It’s a e tune from a tuner so maybe he has it tuned out? Probably a dumb question but just thought I’d ask.
I think if you lift off the throttle it will disengage the rpm limit. Make sure you keep the throttle on the floor
@@AndersonDrift I’ll def try that out and make sure I’m actually flooring it I appreciated the reply I truly do ! 💪🏾
Do you push the clitch in to shift during this?
yes you do
Boosted Beauties thanks
Hi! Noob question here. Will it also prevent the engine from going beyond the configured rpm (in your case 6,000 rpm) even if the clutch is not pressed? Let say I'm on 3rd gear and doing a pull and then the engine is already on 6,000 rpm and I still haven't pressed the clutch to shift gear, will it prevent the engine from going beyond 6,000 rpm?
No cause it goes off the clutch switch to engage it. It should just rev normally
Your REX sounds mint 😉
Thank you!
I'm not familiar with running these types of setups (I run a 18 Q60 RS on JB4 etc) but I appreciate your video here and wanted to ask - the flat foot shift keeps the RPMs at a target # between shifts rather than dropping power as you're shifting? Also, can you set the # that it will hold at? Like yours was at 6500k for example, etc.
Cool video nonetheless 8)
Basically it let's you power shift without the risk of over revving. No lift on throttle keeps boost levels up and helps you focus on just clutch/shift as well vs gas/clutch/shift. Mainly is to keep your boost levels up to reduce lag and help keep you consistent
I'm fairly new to this and still learning but I've always just shifted normally except to rev match downshift which I use a lot in corners can this only be done with a tune? Could this possibly be bad for your transmission or your clutch? Nevermind my question was answered at the very end. Pull the trigger too soon lol. It just sounds like it's not good for your car lol!
grimey 5.56 It’s just the Fuel/Spark cut making it sound dangerous, but it’d actually saving you
Engine breaking doesnt hurt 4 stroke engines, because the piston is not being lubricated by the fuel. If you did this on a 2 stroke dirt bike or something, it could blow the top end, but basically any manual transmission car it is perfectly safe to do it. Unless you have a 2 stroke car, in which case you would be a bad ass.
this needs tuning support because it requires a custom combustion cycle.
so you need a tune for it. the tune will retard fuel and spark so the air can make it to the turbo and keep it spooled. The fuel cut is also necessary to keep the engine from exceeding RPM limits.
I tried and I can’t do it car sounds weird when I do it and smell burn clutch why? I’m stage 3 sti 2019 which act street performance clutch
You're not being quick enough.
@@AndersonDrift huh
@@wrxstivideos7422 you're doing it wrong. You're not releasing the clutch fast enough it seems if it's smelling
@@AndersonDrift maybe I’ll give it another try.
great quick and helpful video. thx
Sick video
I didn't think fancy electronics were necessary to do this. I've done it without... Does it just limit the revs?
What would be the difference between this and 2step?
MC5 Limited Skills if you don't have a tune, your car will not hold rpm during the shift. 2step is a form of launch control not flat foot shifting... If you try this without a flat foot shifting enabled tune, you won't have anything keeping your engine from redlining/blowing up. So don't do it without this tune
If you've done this before without lifting off the gas, that is called "powershifting" and is even worse on your car. I would recommend "quick shifting" until you get a tune for flatfoot. Here's an example in a mustang but it's the same concept th-cam.com/video/Cu8nasjg_WM/w-d-xo.html
Boosted Beauties
Correct me if wrong but wasn't flat foot shifting a technique long before Cobb tuning or any similar products.
I thought it simply meant that you were shifting with your foot flat on the gas. I can typically do it so fast that the clutch re engages On the 1st rev limit bounce..
Btw you need a foot cam
MC5 Limited Skills yes flat foot shifting can be done without cobb's software. However this video is how to use Cobb's flat foot shifting, which is why I'm using it in the video... If you don't want to use their software then you just have to shift quick enough that you don't blow your motor between shifts.
@@AndersonDrift bouncing off the factory rev limiter isn't going to "blow your motor" between shifts. its just hard on your driveline. thats literally why the factory rev limiter is there.
there something for every state hahah Michigan left, california roll, etc
texas u-turn
What about Connecticut? Lol
Vid idea/request, since you look like you know what you're doing, could you do a series on explaining everything about cars and tuning?
Yeah a Subaru evo lol how much I want
Michigang
Never put pressure on your shifter befor changing gears! Rookie
Good thing I sold it 🤣
I have but do not use this feature. It seems like a fast road to a $3k transmission/clutch repair.
not if done properly. that being said, it takes a lot of practice to master it. he's shifting slower than you should using FFS. if you're shifting is timed properly, everything reengages smoothly and you keep accelerating. if your timing is off, you're shock loading your driveline.
Your shifting is slow bro
Can you teach me how
@@AndersonDrift Slam the gears & dump the clutch dude. Performance clutches are like an on/off switch for a reason. You're bouncing revs for like an hour between shifts lol 😶 No hate but anything over .2-.5 seconds to shift while racing or doing a pull is considered slow.
@@RENOWN55CHARGE at this point I have moved onto much more fun things than Subarus 😂
With the flat-foot shifting, you may not be losing boost, but you may as well be (with all the time lost shifting too slowly). That much rev bouncing sounds painfully amateurish (again, no hate). Maybe you were just clearly demonstrating how the feature works? 👌
@@AndersonDrift I see. Very nice 🤙 just picked up a diff car with an AccessPort & was trying to see the features before getting out & messing with it. Thanks for vid.