I forgot to mention I am using a 310 tip @ 600 PSI. While we did get the Emerald Urethane to layout very smooth, I know it can still be better. The ProClassic Hybrid did decent, I could've sprayed it slower and changed the outcome. It did eventually level out a little bit better. I am still waiting on the outcome of the oil.
Emerald Urethane for the WIN! It's expensive but well worth it. Combine it with HVLP and it does really well. We usually put a little bit of water with the urethane to thin it down. That may not be necessary with your sprayer but needed with HVLP. If you try and use paint thinner with the the urethane, the thinner will sit on top and not mix in, fyi. Great video man
Finish Carpentry TV I’d bump up the pressure a bit, 600 psi is crazy low. You can see your pump fluctuate tons on the second door, and too much fingering on the third door. But definitely a decent little unit!
I am just a diy guy looking to upgrade my home. I have learned so much by watching your videos! From the bottom of my heart, Thank you! Your a great teacher and a extremely talented craftsman!!!
Been using Emerald urethane for some time now. Best product I know for wood finish. Try laying the doors. It will let the paint level and diminish orange peel effect. This will also let you put more product on without runs. Most importantly, sand the primer and between finish coats with 220 grit. Been painting for 10 years now, found this to give the smoothest finish.
Agreed. When I used Emerald Urethane 2 years ago, laying the cabinet doors down and applying a nice thick coat worked really well for self leveling. Dries really really slow tho. Vertical surfaces did still have just the faintest orange peel texture. You had to have light and viewing angle just to see it. The threshold for moving from orange peel to dripping while painting vertical surfaces is tricky. You must spray enough of a coat to eliminate the orange peel texture, but not too much to where the paint will run on the vertical surface. This is why you should lay things flat when you are able.
Well Richard, you've received quite alot of replies. Most of them are well intentioned but, for the most part, are just that. My advise to you, if you;re even interested, is to continue experimenting. I have been a custom painter for 43 years. I have worked most of that time as a high end painter in places like Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Cheviot Hills, etc... you probably wont acheive the results you're looking for without experience and the only way to get experience is to keep at it. Those of us with years of experience usually approach each project without even thinking about what we are doing. For example, I'm not even sure what presure setting I use for each product I spray. I have put up thousands of gallons of lacquer, oil, acrylic and a fair amount of the new water based lacquers. It is usually so routine that I just set it up by the way it feels. The old saying "Practice makes perfect" still applies. I sure like your videos. I hope you're around for years to come sharing your talents with us. Keep up the good work Richard. Bob.
Jerkster being that it’s not an easy life doing this messy work all day long. When a painter does get recognized for some nice faux finish work Or doing a nice antique finish on a set of custom cabinets and sprayed. It’s not boasting, just appreciating a job well done. After 45 yrs as a painting contractor, I have met a lot of proud boasting cabinet makers. I never stop learning, I have spent many hours looking at auto body painting, especially prep. These guys deserve a lot of praise for what they can pull off. I’ve sprayed some cars ,and it’s not an easy trade. Everyone who picks up a paintbrush isn’t a real painter, just as a guy who pounds a nail with a hammer isn’t a real carpenter. I don’t like boasting about my work, I just get annoyed by these guys on TH-cam that think their way is just so perfect as to Profess it the way they do. Imagine how they might think after painting high end work for 45 yrs compared to the slop they’re turning out After just a few yrs in the business painting like mommy homeowner can do just like them.
Incredibly impressive how you spent the day just honing your craft and teaching yourself and asking for feedback you were just like ..blow my mind...Involves so much work having to clean that sprayer every time between coats and then you’re gonna repeat it to make sure you got everything the way you need to
I had occasion to do some spraying of doors, I used a waterbase paint and I added Floetrol to the point and I got a much better finish. I think we get orange peel because the paint is drying while being sprayed and so goes on "chunky." The Floetrol may be the answer to your issue. Best regards.
I have used the emerald for a couple of years now and i love the finished look. Satin or semi-gloss, either one looks good. I leave it to the customer preference. One thing i do is hit the sides first to avoid overspray on the front part of the door which is the money shot. Great job. I am a huge fan and i have watched all your videos.
I think that a lot of people have already addressed the pressure. Also it is a good idea to keep your gun to one base. Also when using water based finishes stay away from the oil based tack cloths. We only run water based finishes in my shop and we use micro fiber cloths,works great. We run the same rig as well.
Hey Richard Couple things: 310 ok (especially for shellac) 410/12 for top coat. 1200 minimum for pressure with graco fflp imo Keep distance about 12" and slow it down. (Hit close on edges only) Also mixing shellac/thinner and water will mess up ur lines long term. A litlle solvent stays trapped and when u spray ur waterbased paints you may begin to see pinholes in ur top coat from thinner trying to escape. Best to keep ur topcoat sprayer dedicated to waterbased. Thx for all ur help with the carpentry you've tought me alot👊
On my last build I used the green fflp tip with Benjamin Moore Advance. It has it's own primer as well. Be careful not to get too close or it hangs and sags. Levels great but it's the slowest drying waterborne alkyd out there.
Floetrol. For the latex, especially in that heat, I found that almost all paints lay out with orange peel and then level out, un less they dry too fast
Like I said before I don't paint I watch your videos because your a great Craftsmen and have much respect for you your an honest dude operator error how many people would actually say that great video keep up the pride in your work
It’s all about Tip, Pressure, Distance, Technique and speed. Select the tip for the job, for this work you need the FFLP tip from Graco, fine finish tips all end in an even number 08, 10, 12, 14 etc, this is the size of the tip in thousands of an inch, the first number 2, 3, 4, 5 etc ate the angle in degrees, 20 degrees, 30 degrees etc. If you want to know what size fan that should give you, then double that first number and that should be your fan width in inches, if it’s wider than that your too far away, narrower is too close (distance). Setting your pressure just takes a sharp eye, after priming the pump turn the pressure to approx 1/3rd of its pressure, take the gun with tip and guard attached, remove the safety for the trigger and spray a stripe on some card or other waste flat item, if you can see stripes in the paint pattern then increase the pressure until they disappear , that’s your set pressure. If the pressure is too high you will create lots of overspray and vastly increase your chance of getting creators or pitting in the finish. Technique, even stripes are essential, after you lay down the first stripe, use the edge of that stripe as a guide for where the centre of the next stripe begins so you have a 50-50 overlap (gives depth and coverage of the paint), then when you do the edges, you still work with a wet edge all round. If you watch the way the paint lays down from the gun you will see how it builds and flows out, keep your speed so you get a nice even coat but not so much as to create runs. If the coating is going on too thick then speed up a little if too thin then slow down but if you are having to move too fast to be comfortable then come down a size on your tip (if using a “412” then come down to a 410 or 408).
I'm a union painter here in New Jersey and I gotta say your work is a pleasure to watch. You are very meticulous with a lot of attention to detail. Very refreshing since production is more of the norm these days as opposed to quality.
My business is based on details. Customers really enjoy value for their hard earned money spent. The slap it together and let it ride sucks at best. All I know my clients refer me to there friends without me asking. The proof is always in the pudding.
Dude, I love your videos. It's nice to see somebody who cares about what they do. I do a lot of finishing and furniture repair and restoration on the side. Finishing is how I lost all my hair as a matter of fact. You can only pull so much out until it's gone. I use a Fuji 4 stage turbine HVLP. It was also around six hundred bucks. You, being a trim man know that the devil's in the details. I pretty much do things the way you do other than I normally lay my doors down flat on a set of horses I have made just for that. It seems I worry less about runs that way. And your finish also starts to lay out faster. We do more stains and clear finishes than we do paint grade but, we always sand between every coat. So it seems to me you're doing all right and the next thing you'll have to figure out is how to get a production line going. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
I know nothing about painting , but i know if it was me , i would paint the edges first then the main panel , it seems to me as if doing the edges last you will compromise the finish on the main panel . , but it's just an opinion .
Jim Shaw, you're actually right man. Spraying the edges last will leave a build up of paint on the face. Which is why he got the textured look. Luckily the first two products are very forgiving and will lay down properly.
I've got a few tips: 1. First scuff with 400 grit and wipe with tack cloth followed by a wipe down with solvent based deglosser. 2. I like cover stain as a bond coat, to me it seems like it sands better. 3. Lay the doors down on some horses to spray, this helps the paint lay down vs hanging. 4. IMO Properly prepared Oil based alkyd with the right amounts of penetrol and thinner will always provide a nicer finish than any hybrids, even with extenders in them. 5. I usually hit my doors with one light flash coat followed by a nice heavier wet coat
I'm not a painter by any means, however, nice touch with the drone footage! To me your video production skills are improving nicely. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder. I did get a kick out of felling for texture with the glove, reminds of something I would do!
just to add 2c i use a diff technique to wipe with the tack cloth. Long strokes same direction using a diff part every time i wrap the cloth in soft foam and wipe. Don`t know your system but i have to change nozzles for each type. High heat will mess up your finish get a thermo/hygrometer and keep records. Dont want to sound i know it all (not by far). Thanks a lot for sharing man always pick up somthing. :D peter
I don’t typically comment, but I have always liked your videos. I own a cabinet shop and we use air assured airless. It’s expensive, but it comes out like glass. I found a used one with a gun less than 500. Food for thought. Good job.
Your right when you were moving slower the first coat definitely improved. If you go back and look when you did the primer you see that the coverage wasn't as good as when you slowed down for the Emerald Urethane. I usually spray stays and polyurethane, but I go in knowing that I am going to do 3 or 4 coats of each with a light sanding between coats and I really take my time for the last stain coat and the last poly coat. Good video.
Oil all the way. On my oil base airless i use the fine mesh filters in the gun and pump filter for oil-base enamels along with the fine finish tips instead of the filters that come standard. Lightly Thin with naphtha to speed up drying and so that it hangs on instead of drips. Silky smooth finish. #graco #love
I painted for 25 years. Only get so good up to the point where your equipment can not do better. After a few years experience buy a quality sprayer like the kremlin with high end gun like excite 150. Then you will master the products as you choose and use them. Graco will only take you so far. Cheers
I knew a paint and body shop owner that could not get the finish he wanted with house painters, they all had orange peel! So he brought in his corvett guy and he put a car finish on the cabinets by fiberglassing the doors and frames! They were sanded in between coats and did a final wet sanding to get a slick finish! I think he paid more for the finish of the cabinets than he did for the build! But he was happy!
Awesome job. We have three exterior doors to paint on our house 3 on the garage, two bathroom doors and three sets of closet doors to paint. We got a Graco sprayer, had decided to use BIN shellac. Emerald was what I was going to use. I really, really thank you for this video. I feel more confident now.
By the way I’ve never use tack clothes because they left some remaining wax on the surface . If you using denatured alcohol wet a microfiber and clean it out that’s the best way to clean up a wood surface .
I’m not an expert but I’m a finish carpenter to is trying to improve my ability to stain and spray my work. One thing I see you doing that I did and when I changed it it really helped was using a wider fan. I would you a 510 for those. I found it easier to get a good consistent overlap which made the finish layout smoother. Hope that helps. I also use a graco contractor II gun which I really like.
I sprayed lacquer finishes on my builds for many years in SoCal where it can be hot and dry. The way I found to get the best finish is to do a crisscross pattern. Spray all the edges first of course and then spray the flat part in one direction first and the the other (vertical and then horizontal if you will) being careful not to overdue it. A bit lighter pass than if you were just doing one pass. Hope that helps. Good videos :)
I use a Greco 635tip @ 2800psi, contractor series gun with a 42 inch Titan spray Pole with a swivel. For the sprayer I use a Greco 7500. Fine finish filters in the gun and the sprayer. Running 2 150 foot lines. Two guys 1500 doors a day..
3 thin coats for latex products with extender, small tip. A light tac coat for oils let tac coat get sticky to the touch. Holds final coat from running. White lacquer undercoat
If you will look at the specs on the pro classic waterborne paint you would see they recommend using a .010 to .014 tip at 2000 psi for fine finish work. It's a good idea to read the application recommendations on the paint you are using for a better result. I use a 311 tip for that on cabinets.
I use the pro classic alkyd urethane on cabinets. I use the the Sherwin Williams latex primer. Smaller tip. I'm no pro painter just went into Sherwin Williams one day talked with 3 of the guys there and have been using the same combo for about a year. Never an issue. Customer love it and it holds up to abuse well. The thing with paint is I hate it but seems like I end up doing it a lot. Our businesses are so much a like. Name of my company is Y Co Carpentry in St George UT.
As a high end commercial and residential painter, a FFLP (Fine Finish Low Pressure) tip is a great investment to achieve a fine finish. An important step in the painting process is to read the dry time and cure times. Dry time is usually 20 to 45 min depending on temps and humidity. Cure times can be 24 - 72 hours. Another step is to tint your primer to get better coverage. As an experienced painter, 1 finish coat doesn’t cut it. 1- 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of finish is standard. 2 coats of finish paint will allow the sheen to build correctly and evenly.
Did you add any paint retarder? Something like Floetrol? These additives help slow down the drying time of the paint and give it time to flow out smooth before drying. I sprayed all the trim and doors in my last home reno. I found the tip size plays a huge part in getting a glass like finish. You can find a tip that matches your natural speed. One other important part I learned is you can never vacuum the trim too much.
Another great video, I would have to agree to turning the pressure up a little, also use Ben Moore cabinet coat,very low odor and beautiful finish. Just finished painting 47 cabinets for a retail store with it could not be happier
Hello, I`m from Spain , I`ve had tried a lot to have a good finishing with different sprayers and materials. Basicly the secret is to get the right pressure, right thinning and the right hand speed movement. HVLP is great but slowly , airmix is the better sprayer. Thanks for your videos
I like to use a FFLP tip with pro classic on trim. Also try bumping up the psi if it isn't laying out flat. The guy saying it's not meant to be sprayed is completely wrong.
New spray paint gun are always hard to get the perfect finish they are like a new guy needs I few days to learn how to do staff righ but good video thank you.
I am building a kitchen island using a base drawer unit and 4 3-1/4" diameter beautiful spindle posts for each corner. I am also building a bookshelf on one end to fit between two of the spindle posts. I need to have the bookshelves and spindle posts sprayed to match the color of the base drawer unit. Can you tell me who I might look for in my area? What type of painter would spray like this in their booth prior to my assembly? Thank you for your suggestions. I am very happy with how my kitchen has turned out and the island will be the final piece of the project. ~Nancy
I have been trying different options lately painting built-ins...I use a fugi mini mite 5 in lieu of the airless. Have had some luck with ppg breakthrough, I would say 95% shop finish. I spray onsite mainly. Primer and sanding is key with that product. Breakthrough does best with thin coats...and it drys very fast and feels hard to the touch. I can get 3 coats in one day if necessary. If you like oil, I think you would like BM advanced. It lays down similar to oil and hides flaws better than breakthrough. But it takes forever to dry/cure. The time btw coats is its main downfall. Another thing I noticed...you can’t judge breakthrough or advanced while they are wet. They always look like crap wet, I have stressed myself out many times looking at wet paint between coats.
If you use an extender it will increase drying time and give the paint time to level out. Using an extender instead of water doesn't compromise the integrity of the paint. Thanks for your content, good job. Nick the painter
On bigger flatter panels like those. Use a larger first number. The 310 your using (3) being fan width which is actually 6 and (10) being the orifice size. A 10 is good for medium thickness paints. The thinner the paints the smaller the orifice size needed to atomized properly. But because your spraying wide flat panels use a 410 tip and up the pressure. You should over lap your fan patterns by aiming the middle of each pass at the edge of the pass before.
Hey I have painted for 35 years and think you’re doing an excellent job. Only one coat of primer is needed. It is not a topcoat or a color coat it is merely primer, something for the paint to hang on to. On another note you do not sand those doors to smooth them out but rather to give them tooth as they say in the painting business.
Richard, I like you have been looking for the ultimate smooth finish using a airless. Here is what I found works for me. Airless set at 1300psi Tip FFLP 310 or you could use a FFLP 308 which would give a little smoother finish. Paint PPG Breakthrough satin with 1 cap of floetrol added to each quart and mixed for 1 minute. Spraying technique looks good moving quicker helps. I also found that if you spray the piece horizontal and not vertical it lays down better and has no chance to sag or run on you. PPG Breakthrough dies in 15 minuets in heat of 105 degrees, watch out for blisters in the paint with those temps. Hope this helps.
I have been waiting for 35 years. We always separate our doors To another area after we spray them because of the Overspray dust flying in the air. It will land on your new finished door and make it rough. Thank you for your videos
great video I like the sprayer to, Emerald and pro ind. are the same paint the emerald covers better try thinning the emerald with water i like how your are not afraid to ask for suggestions on what you could improve on, that shows some one who cares and with that attitude you will go far , I can teach you to do a task but I can't teach you to CARE
You're doing it right, sanding between all coats and tacking. One suggestion is to spray the edges of the door first and you will avoid getting a fog or mist of paint on the face.
Try bear paint, the sprayer is like the auto body shop sprayer long slow movement from top to bottom or bottom to top one long spray with a little over spary so it dont dip on the edges. I use oil based paint for metal not wood material if you use oil based you need to add paint thinner to help the paint spray e-zer. I use a non latex type or semi gloss finish But it's the priming coat that makes the difference.
i've been painting for 10 years or something, and i used Emerald for the first time last year when it came out. I sprayed all my doors and brushed out all my trim, and both have a glass like smoothness to them. Its also supposed to be the hardest paint for trim out there so it should last a long time (we'll see about that). I did notice that Emerald Satin is a TRUE satin and has almost no shine, unlike some of the other trim paints satin which seem like semi gloss (like Ben Moore Advance). Thanks for doing the comparison!
how did you wash the pump out after the shellac primer? you cannot run water through the line to clean it out it will gunk up your hose and contaminate any water based paint you spray after.... you will get pitting like the orange peel you were getting..
I used the Emerald paint from Sherwin Williams on my new 103 cabinet doors/drawers in my remodeled kitchen. I bought a small Graco paint sprayer. It only holds about 1 qt, but it worked great. I used Satin, gray. I have had so many compliments on the cabinets. I had never used a paint sprayer before. Always used brushes. I will always use a sprayer in the future. My next venture is painting my brick house. Have you ever painted brick? Do you know of a youtube for painting brick with a sprayer?
Another thing to consider you are spraying in a garage with high humidity and no ventilation whatsoever, advance and proclassic are meant to be sprayed in an area with very low humidity, in a room at around 72 degrees proclassic if sprayed correctly should look like oil very smooth finish, but also your prep and spray method has alot to do with it as well
Now as for the paint sprayer, I have found one of the smaller hand held units, airless sprayer's with the screw on canister's works really well on trim from my past experience. Needless to say, the instructional videos from Graco talk about taking slow, passes on whatever it is you are painting. As well as, overlapping the passes, as you were doing in this video. As for the tip, I have a 313 that I use most of the time, and a 515 that I only use when I am covering a larger area! Although, I believe the 4-6 inch fan size is probably as wide as you would ever want to go. Plus everyone I ever learned from when I was younger always sprayed from left to right. Not saying they were right, that is just how they did it. However, they were some pretty good painters, and even now, are still back up with work.
Hey man long time subscriber I’m a cabinetmaker in Alabama ,,I thought about this video and figured I would share my experience we use a graco airless as well sprayed SW emerald for years wanted to recommend a paint for you to try Milesi it’s a total game changer it’s also water base if you can find a dealer around you should definitely give it a shot!!
While painting has a bit of wizardry to it, im fairly certain painting @ 105f is outside the working paramaters of spraying that paint. I think you might be flashing off too fast, leading to the roughness because the paint cannot flatten out before drying in that heat.
First of all I would just like to say that I watch your videos and enjoy not only the way you do them but also the quality and the craftsmanship of your work. For a smoother finish I would try thinning down your paint a little and maybe using a small amount of Floetrol in it. I have found that you seldom get a good finish with paint straight out of the can. Second you may try a quick tack coat then a full coat after that. This will give the paint something to grab on to and minimize the chances of the water based paint to run. That is something I have done in the past and it works well on slick surfaces with water based paints. Thanks again for all your videos. .
Custom home painter in Canada. We use Kem Aqua plus over SW multipurpose oil based primer. You have to do 2 light coats or it will run and sag, probably twice the speed you just did. SW multipurpose we thin about 20 % with toluene to be able to spray out of a. 012 tip. We sand the first coat of finish, the increased surface area of the "rough" primer helps with the bond between oil and water based coatings. Oil base sands to a glass finish and its like trying to get paint to stick to glass if you sand your primer smooth. Oil base stops the grain raise of mdf and will probably give you the smoothest results I used to swear by ppg breakthrough. They are having durability concerns on cabinets and we switch to Kem Aqua from Sw. Slightly longer dry and tack off times but half the price. Also never try ppg aquacron, it can't be sprayed with a low pressure tip at anything less than 3300
I know I am way late on this, but, you can use ammonia to clean BIN out of your sprayer. It smells like death but is way cheaper than denatured alcohol
35 years of interior house painting here...OH dude, spraying with oil is the heaven of finishing, no other way, that is why sprayed oil is the bench mark " Oh, it looks like oil!!!" No it doesn´t. I love Hvlp and conventional oil finish spraying...from cabs to furn, poly to varnish, deep alkyd oil enamels. Plus hand rubbing or buffing works with oils. But the main reason I dislike shooting those water based enamels is their destructiveness to the guns... oils are a SINCH to clean up ...oils are actually WAY more forgiving than water-based...But they A R E a pain in the ass...the solvents, the fumes, the dry times...so i wonder other´s experience with water based enamels being hard on their HVLP cup gun rigs. your vids rock!
I think tack cloths are wax impregnated cheese cloth. Just found your channel and I'm enjoying it. I did a major kitchen reno when my son was 2. He's 23 now. Maybe I will finish the moldings one day....
There are many factors that play a role on the final outcome of your sprayed finish for instance humidity, heat, thinning of the material, and thickness of material applied. I would recommend on 75 % of the time or depending on viscosity of material thinning at least 4 to 1 ratio or 3 to 1 (paint-thinning material). Also you can spray what I call a "mist" spray first, let it dry for a bit and it allows for thicker coat to be sprayed with less risk of runs. Also if using oil based paint u can thin with laquer thinner it acts as a thinner and dryer at the same time not my preferred method because of the extra expense but know fellow colleagues that learned this way and love this trick. Finally, pressure should be half ways or 3/4 The full throttle of these small guns.
I like the video bro. The oil base looks really good. Maybe it's just my ph. But.looks like it put a good finish on. But I'm with u. I h8 oil much rather go with the close second Emerald latex. Looks good an it's quick and easy. Thanks for the video bro. U do good work. I've been doing this stuff 20 years. And I like it, I've even learned a couple things watching. So keep up the good work, and keep making that money dogg!
i would say your tip is a bit small. To get a really nice finish I like to put on a a heavy but even coat. BTW when shooting doors I like to turn the tip and housing so that the gun can be held straight up and down.
I would shoot 312 314 on those doors. Just a touch more paint with that hand speed might be the difference. That Pro Classic should lay out better. Perhaps your orange peal was the result of not enough paint. At any rate, love your videos and keep experimenting. Side note: see if the wife lets you pick up a second sprayer. One for oil, one for water base.
Just a little tip you shouldn't use the same sprayer if you use oilbase paints and then waterborne paints . It can screw your sprayer up eventually. It's like having a kettle and using emulsion in it then once it dries you use an oilbase gloss , the gloss eats into the emulsion and makes it peel, the same thing will happen to your sprayer no later how clean you think you cleaned it out. You need one sprayer for oil and one sprayer for waterborne paints
Well... thats just not true. I've been painting for 43 years and spraying from day one. Clean the pump and spray whatever you want. No problems at all. This is 43 years of spraying experience talking here. I'll say it again. Clean the pump and spary whatever you want. It will not hurt the pump. It will not cause problems. I spray lacquer, oil, water and even epoxy through all of my equiptment. As long as you clean thoroughly there will be NO problems. Some of my pumps are old. VERY OLD. Some of them are over 30 years old as well as my hoses. Clean the pump. Spray whatever you want. No problems. Just my two cents. BTW... Keep up the excellent the good work Richard. I sure do enjoy your videos. Bob.
@Matt Mayes I'd say yes to those hoses but that wouldn't be true. Hoses drag around on concrete and other surfaces and they wear out. I have so many hoses I don't really know how old each of them are but I'm confident that most are only as old as maybe 7 or 8 years.
@Klaa2 No ultrasonic cleaning. No bucket of water at the ready just run water, or solvent, through until clean water or solvent is all you see when finished. Clean filters and I try to always keep antifreeze in the lines when not in use.
I switch from oil to latex all the time with no problems just make sure to clean 1st and then if switching from water oil just run some mineral spirits in the line after I've cleaned the water based paint out and then you can switch to oil. It goes both ways.
as far as a good finish paint i love durapoxy by kelly moore for doors and enamel...sets up fast and lays down flat, pro classic by sherwin is really amazing but multi surface enamel by sherwin is very good always had good experience with it whether its cabinets or enamel
Id use a 12 tip, add a lil water to water base, thinner to oil base so itll flatten out better. Moderate to fast speed & somewhat tight overlapping passes. Oil base...adding a bit of retarder will compensate for humidity & not blush.
Start with the sides first, then spray the flat side. I always use some masking paper to see if my spray patern is good.. and spray a few passes on them.
I forgot to mention I am using a 310 tip @ 600 PSI. While we did get the Emerald Urethane to layout very smooth, I know it can still be better. The ProClassic Hybrid did decent, I could've sprayed it slower and changed the outcome. It did eventually level out a little bit better. I am still waiting on the outcome of the oil.
Emerald Urethane for the WIN! It's expensive but well worth it. Combine it with HVLP and it does really well. We usually put a little bit of water with the urethane to thin it down. That may not be necessary with your sprayer but needed with HVLP. If you try and use paint thinner with the the urethane, the thinner will sit on top and not mix in, fyi. Great video man
Finish Carpentry TV I’d bump up the pressure a bit, 600 psi is crazy low. You can see your pump fluctuate tons on the second door, and too much fingering on the third door. But definitely a decent little unit!
Don Thomson thanks everyone for all the advice. It really is a lot harder than people think. Especially since every paint is different.
You spent a $1000 on a sprayer. My wife would kill me if I did that. Hahaha
Jared Parker thanks for giving reason #1,365 to NOT get married.
I am just a diy guy looking to upgrade my home. I have learned so much by watching your videos! From the bottom of my heart, Thank you! Your a great teacher and a extremely talented craftsman!!!
If you spray the edges first you will paint over the overspray in the field where the finish counts.
Been using Emerald urethane for some time now. Best product I know for wood finish.
Try laying the doors. It will let the paint level and diminish orange peel effect.
This will also let you put more product on without runs.
Most importantly, sand the primer and between finish coats with 220 grit.
Been painting for 10 years now, found this to give the smoothest finish.
Agreed. When I used Emerald Urethane 2 years ago, laying the cabinet doors down and applying a nice thick coat worked really well for self leveling. Dries really really slow tho. Vertical surfaces did still have just the faintest orange peel texture. You had to have light and viewing angle just to see it. The threshold for moving from orange peel to dripping while painting vertical surfaces is tricky. You must spray enough of a coat to eliminate the orange peel texture, but not too much to where the paint will run on the vertical surface. This is why you should lay things flat when you are able.
Well Richard, you've received quite alot of replies. Most of them are well intentioned but, for the most part, are just that. My advise to you, if you;re even interested, is to continue experimenting. I have been a custom painter for 43 years. I have worked most of that time as a high end painter in places like Beverly Hills, Brentwood, Cheviot Hills, etc... you probably wont acheive the results you're looking for without experience and the only way to get experience is to keep at it. Those of us with years of experience usually approach each project without even thinking about what we are doing. For example, I'm not even sure what presure setting I use for each product I spray. I have put up thousands of gallons of lacquer, oil, acrylic and a fair amount of the new water based lacquers. It is usually so routine that I just set it up by the way it feels. The old saying "Practice makes perfect" still applies. I sure like your videos. I hope you're around for years to come sharing your talents with us. Keep up the good work Richard. Bob.
Why do painters always brag/lie about their experience? Have not noticed this in any other profession.
@@jerkster9114 you havent met a taper
@@mam241 you haven't met a carpenter.
Jerkster every tradesman out there does that. Trust me, I’ve been on job sites for 85 years.
Jerkster being that it’s not an easy life doing this messy work all day long. When a painter does get recognized for some nice faux finish work
Or doing a nice antique finish on a set of custom cabinets and sprayed. It’s not boasting, just appreciating a job well done.
After 45 yrs as a painting contractor, I have met a lot of proud boasting cabinet makers. I never stop learning, I have spent many hours looking at auto body painting, especially prep. These guys deserve a lot of praise for what they can pull off. I’ve sprayed some cars ,and it’s not an easy trade.
Everyone who picks up a paintbrush isn’t a real painter, just as a guy who pounds a nail with a hammer isn’t a real carpenter.
I don’t like boasting about my work, I just get annoyed by these guys on TH-cam that think their way is just so perfect as to
Profess it the way they do. Imagine how they might think after painting high end work for 45 yrs compared to the slop they’re turning out
After just a few yrs in the business painting like mommy homeowner can do just like them.
Incredibly impressive how you spent the day just honing your craft and teaching yourself and asking for feedback you were just like ..blow my mind...Involves so much work having to clean that sprayer every time between coats and then you’re gonna repeat it to make sure you got everything the way you need to
I had occasion to do some spraying of doors, I used a waterbase paint and I added Floetrol to the point and I got a much better finish. I think we get orange peel because the paint is drying while being sprayed and so goes on "chunky." The Floetrol may be the answer to your issue. Best regards.
I have used the emerald for a couple of years now and i love the finished look. Satin or semi-gloss, either one looks good. I leave it to the customer preference. One thing i do is hit the sides first to avoid overspray on the front part of the door which is the money shot. Great job. I am a huge fan and i have watched all your videos.
Bro. Your so flipping humble it's unreal. I wish I was like that when I started.
You are good carpenter!
I think that a lot of people have already addressed the pressure. Also it is a good idea to keep your gun to one base. Also when using water based finishes stay away from the oil based tack cloths. We only run water based finishes in my shop and we use micro fiber cloths,works great. We run the same rig as well.
Hey Richard
Couple things:
310 ok (especially for shellac) 410/12 for top coat.
1200 minimum for pressure with graco fflp imo
Keep distance about 12" and slow it down. (Hit close on edges only)
Also mixing shellac/thinner and water will mess up ur lines long term. A litlle solvent stays trapped and when u spray ur waterbased paints you may begin to see pinholes in ur top coat from thinner trying to escape. Best to keep ur topcoat sprayer dedicated to waterbased.
Thx for all ur help with the carpentry you've tought me alot👊
Robert Adam thank you! Makes sense to me, I will try it out!
Exactly what i was thinkin!!
Great comment. Thanks for sharing
Would like to see a video on cleaning steps needed for your sprayer.
Second that.
Lol 😅😆 clean that shit
@@alexandergonsales9514 Then show us!
There is plenty of other videos on TH-cam on how to clean your sprayer. Super simple and easy.
Add some Flotroel to your paint and it will lay down better and dry with a smoother finish.
On my last build I used the green fflp tip with Benjamin Moore Advance. It has it's own primer as well. Be careful not to get too close or it hangs and sags. Levels great but it's the slowest drying waterborne alkyd out there.
Floetrol. For the latex, especially in that heat, I found that almost all paints lay out with orange peel and then level out, un less they dry too fast
absolutely use an extender, especially in the heat
Floetrol is some awesome stuff. I use it a lot when I'm brushing trim also. Lays out nice and flat
Total agreement with Steve! Floetrol with waterborne, penetrol with oil base.
I agree with you.
Thanks!
Like I said before I don't paint I watch your videos because your a great Craftsmen and have much respect for you your an honest dude operator error how many people would actually say that great video keep up the pride in your work
It’s all about Tip, Pressure, Distance, Technique and speed. Select the tip for the job, for this work you need the FFLP tip from Graco, fine finish tips all end in an even number 08, 10, 12, 14 etc, this is the size of the tip in thousands of an inch, the first number 2, 3, 4, 5 etc ate the angle in degrees, 20 degrees, 30 degrees etc. If you want to know what size fan that should give you, then double that first number and that should be your fan width in inches, if it’s wider than that your too far away, narrower is too close (distance). Setting your pressure just takes a sharp eye, after priming the pump turn the pressure to approx 1/3rd of its pressure, take the gun with tip and guard attached, remove the safety for the trigger and spray a stripe on some card or other waste flat item, if you can see stripes in the paint pattern then increase the pressure until they disappear , that’s your set pressure. If the pressure is too high you will create lots of overspray and vastly increase your chance of getting creators or pitting in the finish.
Technique, even stripes are essential, after you lay down the first stripe, use the edge of that stripe as a guide for where the centre of the next stripe begins so you have a 50-50 overlap (gives depth and coverage of the paint), then when you do the edges, you still work with a wet edge all round.
If you watch the way the paint lays down from the gun you will see how it builds and flows out, keep your speed so you get a nice even coat but not so much as to create runs. If the coating is going on too thick then speed up a little if too thin then slow down but if you are having to move too fast to be comfortable then come down a size on your tip (if using a “412” then come down to a 410 or 408).
I'm a union painter here in New Jersey and I gotta say your work is a pleasure to watch. You are very meticulous with a lot of attention to detail. Very refreshing since production is more of the norm these days as opposed to quality.
My business is based on details. Customers really enjoy value for their hard earned money spent. The slap it together and let it ride sucks at best. All I know my clients refer me to there friends without me asking. The proof is always in the pudding.
Dude, I love your videos. It's nice to see somebody who cares about what they do. I do a lot of finishing and furniture repair and restoration on the side. Finishing is how I lost all my hair as a matter of fact. You can only pull so much out until it's gone. I use a Fuji 4 stage turbine HVLP. It was also around six hundred bucks. You, being a trim man know that the devil's in the details. I pretty much do things the way you do other than I normally lay my doors down flat on a set of horses I have made just for that. It seems I worry less about runs that way. And your finish also starts to lay out faster. We do more stains and clear finishes than we do paint grade but, we always sand between every coat. So it seems to me you're doing all right and the next thing you'll have to figure out is how to get a production line going. Keep up the good work and keep the videos coming.
I know nothing about painting , but i know if it was me , i would paint the edges first then the main panel , it seems to me as if doing the edges last you will compromise the finish on the main panel . , but it's just an opinion .
Jim Shaw, you're actually right man. Spraying the edges last will leave a build up of paint on the face. Which is why he got the textured look. Luckily the first two products are very forgiving and will lay down properly.
Indeed, spraying edges last will leave thin haze over the main panel which will dry too fast no time for paint to "get" smooth.
same here
Definitely spray edges first. When you do it last you catch overspray and dust on the front
Alejandro Soli
I've got a few tips:
1. First scuff with 400 grit and wipe with tack cloth followed by a wipe down with solvent based deglosser.
2. I like cover stain as a bond coat, to me it seems like it sands better.
3. Lay the doors down on some horses to spray, this helps the paint lay down vs hanging.
4. IMO Properly prepared Oil based alkyd with the right amounts of penetrol and thinner will always provide a nicer finish than any hybrids, even with extenders in them.
5. I usually hit my doors with one light flash coat followed by a nice heavier wet coat
Man that’s smooth I don’t think I have to sand it
Takes off glove: yea I have to sand it 😂😂
I'm not a painter by any means, however, nice touch with the drone footage! To me your video production skills are improving nicely. Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder.
I did get a kick out of felling for texture with the glove, reminds of something I would do!
Very instructive videos, with a lot of patience and understanding of the work your doing, keep up the good work little brother, I like your style.
Excellent demo! A lot of your personal time dedicated to mastering your new sprayer. RESPECT! 👊
But won't he have a new skill to make more money? Not sure of many professions where you strictly learn on the job and not with your offtime.
just to add 2c i use a diff technique to wipe with the tack cloth. Long strokes same direction using a diff part every time i wrap the cloth in soft foam and wipe. Don`t know your system but i have to change nozzles for each type. High heat will mess up your finish get a thermo/hygrometer and keep records. Dont want to sound i know it all (not by far). Thanks a lot for sharing man always pick up somthing. :D peter
I don’t typically comment, but I have always liked your videos. I own a cabinet shop and we use air assured airless. It’s expensive, but it comes out like glass. I found a used one with a gun less than 500. Food for thought. Good job.
Your right when you were moving slower the first coat definitely improved. If you go back and look when you did the primer you see that the coverage wasn't as good as when you slowed down for the Emerald Urethane. I usually spray stays and polyurethane, but I go in knowing that I am going to do 3 or 4 coats of each with a light sanding between coats and I really take my time for the last stain coat and the last poly coat. Good video.
been using a graco 390 for few years. defiantly would recommend for someone getting into airless spraying
I use the Emerald Urethane almost exclusively now and it sprays on beautifully. Stick with that and you will be very happy.
Pro industrial alkyd urethane from Sherwin gives you the best trim finish looks and feels like oil but with out the hassle.
Oil all the way. On my oil base airless i use the fine mesh filters in the gun and pump filter for oil-base enamels along with the fine finish tips instead of the filters that come standard. Lightly Thin with naphtha to speed up drying and so that it hangs on instead of drips. Silky smooth finish. #graco #love
I painted for 25 years. Only get so good up to the point where your equipment can not do better. After a few years experience buy a quality sprayer like the kremlin with high end gun like excite 150. Then you will master the products as you choose and use them. Graco will only take you so far. Cheers
I knew a paint and body shop owner that could not get the finish he wanted with house painters, they all had orange peel!
So he brought in his corvett guy and he put a car finish on the cabinets by fiberglassing the doors and frames!
They were sanded in between coats and did a final wet sanding to get a slick finish!
I think he paid more for the finish of the cabinets than he did for the build! But he was happy!
Awesome job. We have three exterior doors to paint on our house 3 on the garage, two bathroom doors and three sets of closet doors to paint. We got a Graco sprayer, had decided to use BIN shellac. Emerald was what I was going to use. I really, really thank you for this video. I feel more confident now.
By the way I’ve never use tack clothes because they left some remaining wax on the surface .
If you using denatured alcohol wet a microfiber and clean it out that’s the best way to clean up a wood surface .
I’m not an expert but I’m a finish carpenter to is trying to improve my ability to stain and spray my work. One thing I see you doing that I did and when I changed it it really helped was using a wider fan. I would you a 510 for those. I found it easier to get a good consistent overlap which made the finish layout smoother.
Hope that helps. I also use a graco contractor II gun which I really like.
Given that you spray mostly trim and require a fine finish. Did you consider an HVLP turbine unit like a Fuji? Great for cabinets and furniture.
I sprayed lacquer finishes on my builds for many years in SoCal where it can be hot and dry. The way I found to get the best finish is to do a crisscross pattern. Spray all the edges first of course and then spray the flat part in one direction first and the the other (vertical and then horizontal if you will) being careful not to overdue it. A bit lighter pass than if you were just doing one pass. Hope that helps. Good videos :)
I use a Greco 635tip @ 2800psi, contractor series gun with a 42 inch Titan spray Pole with a swivel. For the sprayer I use a Greco 7500. Fine finish filters in the gun and the sprayer. Running 2 150 foot lines. Two guys 1500 doors a day..
Dial up the pressure a bit , I usually spray trim between 1900 - 3000 psi depending on the product I'm using ... hope this helps
3 thin coats for latex products with extender, small tip.
A light tac coat for oils let tac coat get sticky to the touch. Holds final coat from running.
White lacquer undercoat
9:47 haha this is why I keep watching :) always get a good laugh 😛 no but you do quality work. We need more craftsman like you in Texas
If you will look at the specs on the pro classic waterborne paint you would see they recommend using a .010 to .014 tip at 2000 psi for fine finish work. It's a good idea to read the application recommendations on the paint you are using for a better result. I use a 311 tip for that on cabinets.
Floetrol or spray early morning or evenings when it's cooler. Lay doors flat when possible.
I just got the graco 395 ultra, and love it. I'm curious about the hopper accessory. Looks handy for some projects
I use the pro classic alkyd urethane on cabinets. I use the the Sherwin Williams latex primer. Smaller tip. I'm no pro painter just went into Sherwin Williams one day talked with 3 of the guys there and have been using the same combo for about a year. Never an issue. Customer love it and it holds up to abuse well. The thing with paint is I hate it but seems like I end up doing it a lot. Our businesses are so much a like. Name of my company is Y Co Carpentry in St George UT.
Sorry Sherwin Williams Industrial pro alkyd urethane. Not pro classic
As a high end commercial and residential painter, a FFLP (Fine Finish Low Pressure) tip is a great investment to achieve a fine finish.
An important step in the painting process is to read the dry time and cure times. Dry time is usually 20 to 45 min depending on temps and humidity. Cure times can be 24 - 72 hours.
Another step is to tint your primer to get better coverage.
As an experienced painter, 1 finish coat doesn’t cut it. 1- 2 coats of primer and 2 coats of finish is standard. 2 coats of finish paint will allow the sheen to build correctly and evenly.
Did you add any paint retarder? Something like Floetrol? These additives help slow down the drying time of the paint and give it time to flow out smooth before drying. I sprayed all the trim and doors in my last home reno. I found the tip size plays a huge part in getting a glass like finish. You can find a tip that matches your natural speed. One other important part I learned is you can never vacuum the trim too much.
Another great video, I would have to agree to turning the pressure up a little, also use Ben Moore cabinet coat,very low odor and beautiful finish. Just finished painting 47 cabinets for a retail store with it could not be happier
Hello, I`m from Spain , I`ve had tried a lot to have a good finishing with different sprayers and materials. Basicly the secret is to get the right pressure, right thinning and the right hand speed movement. HVLP is great but slowly , airmix is the better sprayer. Thanks for your videos
I like to use a FFLP tip with pro classic on trim. Also try bumping up the psi if it isn't laying out flat. The guy saying it's not meant to be sprayed is completely wrong.
New spray paint gun are always hard to get the perfect finish they are like a new guy needs I few days to learn how to do staff righ but good video thank you.
I am building a kitchen island using a base drawer unit and 4 3-1/4" diameter beautiful spindle posts for each corner. I am also building a bookshelf on one end to fit between two of the spindle posts. I need to have the bookshelves and spindle posts sprayed to match the color of the base drawer unit. Can you tell me who I might look for in my area? What type of painter would spray like this in their booth prior to my assembly? Thank you for your suggestions. I am very happy with how my kitchen has turned out and the island will be the final piece of the project. ~Nancy
I have been trying different options lately painting built-ins...I use a fugi mini mite 5 in lieu of the airless. Have had some luck with ppg breakthrough, I would say 95% shop finish. I spray onsite mainly. Primer and sanding is key with that product. Breakthrough does best with thin coats...and it drys very fast and feels hard to the touch. I can get 3 coats in one day if necessary. If you like oil, I think you would like BM advanced. It lays down similar to oil and hides flaws better than breakthrough. But it takes forever to dry/cure. The time btw coats is its main downfall. Another thing I noticed...you can’t judge breakthrough or advanced while they are wet. They always look like crap wet, I have stressed myself out many times looking at wet paint between coats.
Do you ever mix penetrol with paint for flow. There is a penetrol also for waterbase
If you use an extender it will increase drying time and give the paint time to level out. Using an extender instead of water doesn't compromise the integrity of the paint.
Thanks for your content, good job.
Nick the painter
On bigger flatter panels like those. Use a larger first number. The 310 your using (3) being fan width which is actually 6 and (10) being the orifice size. A 10 is good for medium thickness paints. The thinner the paints the smaller the orifice size needed to atomized properly. But because your spraying wide flat panels use a 410 tip and up the pressure. You should over lap your fan patterns by aiming the middle of each pass at the edge of the pass before.
Hey I have painted for 35 years and think you’re doing an excellent job. Only one coat of primer is needed. It is not a topcoat or a color coat it is merely primer, something for the paint to hang on to. On another note you do not sand those doors to smooth them out but rather to give them tooth as they say in the painting business.
Richard, I like you have been looking for the ultimate smooth finish using a airless. Here is what I found works for me. Airless set at 1300psi Tip FFLP 310 or you could use a FFLP 308 which would give a little smoother finish. Paint PPG Breakthrough satin with 1 cap of floetrol added to each quart and mixed for 1 minute. Spraying technique looks good moving quicker helps. I also found that if you spray the piece horizontal and not vertical it lays down better and has no chance to sag or run on you. PPG Breakthrough dies in 15 minuets in heat of 105 degrees, watch out for blisters in the paint with those temps. Hope this helps.
Great advice! Thanks for taking the time to type it all out.
Best advice so far.
Michael Rose that floetrol is excellent stuff. Used on hand painted kitchen cupboards
I have been waiting for 35 years. We always separate our doors To another area after we spray them because of the Overspray dust flying in the air. It will land on your new finished door and make it rough. Thank you for your videos
35 years painting
great video I like the sprayer to, Emerald and pro ind. are the same paint the emerald covers better try thinning the emerald with water i like how your are not afraid to ask for suggestions on what you could improve on, that shows some one who cares and with that attitude you will go far , I can teach you to do a task but I can't teach you to CARE
You're doing it right, sanding between all coats and tacking. One suggestion is to spray the edges of the door first and you will avoid getting a fog or mist of paint on the face.
Nice to be connected, I went to my local restore, also to buy a door, and was told no haggling was allowed at restore when I offered to pay less.
Use the hand held spray guns on the other side to compare the difference in finishes.
Try bear paint, the sprayer is like the auto body shop sprayer long slow movement from top to bottom or bottom to top one long spray with a little over spary so it dont dip on the edges. I use oil based paint for metal not wood material if you use oil based you need to add paint thinner to help the paint spray e-zer. I use a non latex type or semi gloss finish But it's the priming coat that makes the difference.
Great video! I appreciate your recommendation on different paints.
Thànkyou man.I learning how to spray and it helps watching you videos
i've been painting for 10 years or something, and i used Emerald for the first time last year when it came out. I sprayed all my doors and brushed out all my trim, and both have a glass like smoothness to them. Its also supposed to be the hardest paint for trim out there so it should last a long time (we'll see about that). I did notice that Emerald Satin is a TRUE satin and has almost no shine, unlike some of the other trim paints satin which seem like semi gloss (like Ben Moore Advance). Thanks for doing the comparison!
Thanks for the comment. I too noticed that about the advance satin from BM. I still love that paint though.
Tons of information in this video and in the comments. Thanks
another informative video loved it how much does it take to clean sprayer if one you have time would like to see that thank you
how did you wash the pump out after the shellac primer? you cannot run water through the line to clean it out it will gunk up your hose and contaminate any water based paint you spray after.... you will get pitting like the orange peel you were getting..
I used the Emerald paint from Sherwin Williams on my new 103 cabinet doors/drawers in my remodeled kitchen. I bought a small Graco paint sprayer. It only holds about 1 qt, but it worked great. I used Satin, gray. I have had so many compliments on the cabinets. I had never used a paint sprayer before. Always used brushes. I will always use a sprayer in the future. My next venture is painting my brick house. Have you ever painted brick? Do you know of a youtube for painting brick with a sprayer?
Stain the brick
Try a 312 tip and bump up the preasure your not getting enough paint on the doors. Theyres a happy medium with proclassic dont be scared to lay it on!
Another thing to consider you are spraying in a garage with high humidity and no ventilation whatsoever, advance and proclassic are meant to be sprayed in an area with very low humidity, in a room at around 72 degrees proclassic if sprayed correctly should look like oil very smooth finish, but also your prep and spray method has alot to do with it as well
Now as for the paint sprayer, I have found one of the smaller hand held units, airless sprayer's with the screw on canister's works really well on trim from my past experience. Needless to say, the instructional videos from Graco talk about taking slow, passes on whatever it is you are painting. As well as, overlapping the passes, as you were doing in this video. As for the tip, I have a 313 that I use most of the time, and a 515 that I only use when I am covering a larger area! Although, I believe the 4-6 inch fan size is probably as wide as you would ever want to go. Plus everyone I ever learned from when I was younger always sprayed from left to right. Not saying they were right, that is just how they did it. However, they were some pretty good painters, and even now, are still back up with work.
Where did you get those hopper plastic bags from
Hey man long time subscriber I’m a cabinetmaker in Alabama ,,I thought about this video and figured I would share my experience we use a graco airless as well sprayed SW emerald for years wanted to recommend a paint for you to try Milesi it’s a total game changer it’s also water base if you can find a dealer around you should definitely give it a shot!!
Also use the bin primer with it as well
The aerial shots!
While painting has a bit of wizardry to it, im fairly certain painting @ 105f is outside the working paramaters of spraying that paint.
I think you might be flashing off too fast, leading to the roughness because the paint cannot flatten out before drying in that heat.
First of all I would just like to say that I watch your videos and enjoy not only the way you do them but also the quality and the craftsmanship of your work. For a smoother finish I would try thinning down your paint a little and maybe using a small amount of Floetrol in it. I have found that you seldom get a good finish with paint straight out of the can. Second you may try a quick tack coat then a full coat after that. This will give the paint something to grab on to and minimize the chances of the water based paint to run. That is something I have done in the past and it works well on slick surfaces with water based paints. Thanks again for all your videos.
.
Great tip on standing the doors out from the wall by use of a paint stick.
Thanks! I have not seen you in a while! Thanks for stopping by!
Custom home painter in Canada. We use Kem Aqua plus over SW multipurpose oil based primer. You have to do 2 light coats or it will run and sag, probably twice the speed you just did. SW multipurpose we thin about 20 % with toluene to be able to spray out of a. 012 tip.
We sand the first coat of finish, the increased surface area of the "rough" primer helps with the bond between oil and water based coatings. Oil base sands to a glass finish and its like trying to get paint to stick to glass if you sand your primer smooth. Oil base stops the grain raise of mdf and will probably give you the smoothest results
I used to swear by ppg breakthrough. They are having durability concerns on cabinets and we switch to Kem Aqua from Sw. Slightly longer dry and tack off times but half the price. Also never try ppg aquacron, it can't be sprayed with a low pressure tip at anything less than 3300
I just did some doors with Kem Aqua and the surfacer with an HVLP. OMG, this stuff is like glass. It dries hard, and FAST.
I know I am way late on this, but, you can use ammonia to clean BIN out of your sprayer. It smells like death but is way cheaper than denatured alcohol
35 years of interior house painting here...OH dude, spraying with oil is the heaven of finishing, no other way, that is why sprayed oil is the bench mark " Oh, it looks like oil!!!" No it doesn´t. I love Hvlp and conventional oil finish spraying...from cabs to furn, poly to varnish, deep alkyd oil enamels. Plus hand rubbing or buffing works with oils. But the main reason I dislike shooting those water based enamels is their destructiveness to the guns... oils are a SINCH to clean up ...oils are actually WAY more forgiving than water-based...But they A R E a pain in the ass...the solvents, the fumes, the dry times...so i wonder other´s experience with water based enamels being hard on their HVLP cup gun rigs. your vids rock!
to get a smother finish with latex paint thin it with water. you need to get the droplet size smaller.
I think tack cloths are wax impregnated cheese cloth. Just found your channel and I'm enjoying it. I did a major kitchen reno when my son was 2. He's 23 now. Maybe I will finish the moldings one day....
There are many factors that play a role on the final outcome of your sprayed finish for instance humidity, heat, thinning of the material, and thickness of material applied. I would recommend on 75 % of the time or depending on viscosity of material thinning at least 4 to 1 ratio or 3 to 1 (paint-thinning material). Also you can spray what I call a "mist" spray first, let it dry for a bit and it allows for thicker coat to be sprayed with less risk of runs. Also if using oil based paint u can thin with laquer thinner it acts as a thinner and dryer at the same time not my preferred method because of the extra expense but know fellow colleagues that learned this way and love this trick. Finally, pressure should be half ways or 3/4 The full throttle of these small guns.
I like the video bro. The oil base looks really good. Maybe it's just my ph. But.looks like it put a good finish on. But I'm with u. I h8 oil much rather go with the close second Emerald latex. Looks good an it's quick and easy. Thanks for the video bro. U do good work. I've been doing this stuff 20 years. And I like it, I've even learned a couple things watching. So keep up the good work, and keep making that money dogg!
i would say your tip is a bit small. To get a really nice finish I like to put on a a heavy but even coat. BTW when shooting doors I like to turn the tip and housing so that the gun can be held straight up and down.
I would shoot 312 314 on those doors. Just a touch more paint with that hand speed might be the difference. That Pro Classic should lay out better. Perhaps your orange peal was the result of not enough paint. At any rate, love your videos and keep experimenting. Side note: see if the wife lets you pick up a second sprayer. One for oil, one for water base.
What’s the bag or strainer you put in the hopper? Where to get?
Just a little tip you shouldn't use the same sprayer if you use oilbase paints and then waterborne paints . It can screw your sprayer up eventually. It's like having a kettle and using emulsion in it then once it dries you use an oilbase gloss , the gloss eats into the emulsion and makes it peel, the same thing will happen to your sprayer no later how clean you think you cleaned it out. You need one sprayer for oil and one sprayer for waterborne paints
cam decorations I thought about that, I wonder how long it would take to damage it. Planning to be using water from here on out though. Thank you.
Well... thats just not true. I've been painting for 43 years and spraying from day one. Clean the pump and spray whatever you want. No problems at all. This is 43 years of spraying experience talking here. I'll say it again. Clean the pump and spary whatever you want. It will not hurt the pump. It will not cause problems. I spray lacquer, oil, water and even epoxy through all of my equiptment. As long as you clean thoroughly there will be NO problems. Some of my pumps are old. VERY OLD. Some of them are over 30 years old as well as my hoses. Clean the pump. Spray whatever you want. No problems. Just my two cents. BTW... Keep up the excellent the good work Richard. I sure do enjoy your videos. Bob.
@Matt Mayes I'd say yes to those hoses but that wouldn't be true. Hoses drag around on concrete and other surfaces and they wear out. I have so many hoses I don't really know how old each of them are but I'm confident that most are only as old as maybe 7 or 8 years.
@Klaa2 No ultrasonic cleaning. No bucket of water at the ready just run water, or solvent, through until clean water or solvent is all you see when finished. Clean filters and I try to always keep antifreeze in the lines when not in use.
I switch from oil to latex all the time with no problems just make sure to clean 1st and then if switching from water oil just run some mineral spirits in the line after I've cleaned the water based paint out and then you can switch to oil. It goes both ways.
as far as a good finish paint i love durapoxy by kelly moore for doors and enamel...sets up fast and lays down flat, pro classic by sherwin is really amazing but multi surface enamel by sherwin is very good always had good experience with it whether its cabinets or enamel
I love your videos!! you're soo humble!
Id use a 12 tip, add a lil water to water base, thinner to oil base so itll flatten out better. Moderate to fast speed & somewhat tight overlapping passes. Oil base...adding a bit of retarder will compensate for humidity & not blush.
loving those b-roll drone shots, nice work
Are you going to make an update video to this one to let us know the setup you decided on and if you found out how to get that perfect finish?
It's been two years, I'm on the fence about buying this sprayer... I'd like to know any updates as well.
Start with the sides first, then spray the flat side. I always use some masking paper to see if my spray patern is good.. and spray a few passes on them.