Been a decorator for about 40 years now and I must say the Zinsser BIN is a game changer , it’s got me out of a few painting issues . Worth every penny 🙏🏻👍🏻
Quick tip from a professional decorator, shellac is a reversible compound so if your brush goes hard just put it back into some zinsser or meths and it will soften back up. Zinsser is the best primer out there and I always have some in my van, you can have it tinted too so grey would be better for colours like green, blues, brown and reds.....
Henry do you ever spray it? I have a conventional spray gun and would love to know what size tip to use... it seems very thin. A 1.5? Appreciate any advice thank you
@@unusualpond yeah I have sprayed it, I used a cheap Earlex spray unit which I bought for spraying outdoor fencing panels and the like, I paid about £100 for it from Amazon, I had about 15 six panel doors to paint white that had been previously stained with a deep mahogany so a minimum of 3 coats per side, that's 90 door side's which is a lot of work using a brush and mini rollers, for a cheap DIY unit that just uses air to a gun and cup it did really well, just need to keep the spray tip clean and clear like any spray gun....
@@unusualpond yeah I have sprayed it, I used a cheap Earlex spray unit which I bought for spraying outdoor fencing panels and the like, I paid about £100 for it from Amazon, I had about 15 six panel doors to paint white that had been previously stained with a deep mahogany so a minimum of 3 coats per side, that's 90 door side's which is a lot of work using a brush and mini rollers, for a cheap DIY unit that just uses air to a gun and cup it did really well, just need to keep the spray tip clean and clear like any spray gun....
I love using BIN. I've had great success with it when priming metal doors exposed to harsh Chicago seasons, sealing wall board around bath tubs and showers, trim(obviously), sealing the odors and stains from disgusting nicotine. It's perfect for pretty much everything. My pops said that it did wonders when he was doing fire damage repair 35 years ago. It made the crappiest looking plaster or drywall repairable. I hope it helps you with other projects in the future.
Cling film for wrapping brushes,trays,rollers. Best tip I’ve got is let paint build up in trays,and simply cut and peel off in one piece after about 20 uses. Saves so much time and water.And the environment!
I found this video searching for priming with Zinsser BIN as I’m about to start a kitchen cabinet paint project. It was great to see someone actually completing a paint job using the Zinsser and the finish coat. Your doors look great! You might not see this as this video is over two years old, but I wanted to thank you for showing how it’s done. Cheers!
Thanks Diane. I really appreciate that. Here's a kitchen repaint I did recently. Just make sure you degrease the units before painting with sugar soap or similar, and don't use Valspar. It's fine but chips far too easily 👍🏻 th-cam.com/video/x-dzF4H0km8/w-d-xo.html
Hi, Charlie! (10:29) About MDF edges: I sand them by hand with 60 grit first, just a few strokes are enough (that cleans the roughness and marks of the blade), and then I go directly to 220 with an orbital sander, *before painting*. That leaves the surface smooth as glass to the eye and touch, and is super quick. ;)
The key to that method is that the MDF is heating up from friction, to soften the resin in the MDF. I recommend using even finer grit, like 400 or even 600.
@@barebaric I've tried, but if you use a finer grit, the surface has no bite for the paint and the roller just slides instead of applying paint (I obviously paint with a roller, I don't have a machine, I'm a poor Argentinian 🤣).
Zinsser BIN is fantastic on mdf. It is all i use now. I find it gives cut/routed edges a harder edge to it, much like the face of mdf. With mdf just sand in one direction as going in both directions flattens the ''grain'' and then raises it again going in the opposite direction. My workflow for mdf is sand the cut edges to 180g, 1st coat BIN, let it dry properly. Denib with 220/240g paper, 2nd coat of BIN. Let that dry overnight, then denib again with 240g paper. While not needed i then put 2 coats of undercoat on, again flatting between coats, this time with 320g. Then let it dry and flatten with 400g paper and then 2 top coats and flattening between coats. That always gives me a really smooth finish, one that feels like glass. :)
Thank you very much for the tips especially the one on how to clean the brushes with three jars what a good idea and I will be getting the Zinsser bin after this.
You're welcome and actually you'll find it easier to clean shellac paint like this off the brushes than oil based. Get some of these amzn.to/36q4uMv (affiliate link) as they're great for getting caked on paint off the brushes. 👍
Brilliant video.. love the studio green colour, will need to use that myself sometime! Quick tip.. I place the roller trays into a bag before putting the paint in... once finished, throw the bag away and you have a brand new roller tray for the next job!
Zinsser BIN is a amazing product and personally, after discovering it I wouldn't prime with any other paint now. If you're in the Painting and Decorating trade with time being your enemy, the drying time is ridiculously good.
TH-cam delivers again just when I’m preparing to paint my kitchen cabinets, the doors were wrapped and parts have failed and don’t like the colour any more , can’t wait to binge watch more for tips on everything. Take care x
Excellent stuff BIN. I used it on my varnished skirting boards and it covered everything in 2 coats. Being able to get 2 coats on a whole room in a morning is an absolute winner because at a push you can get 2 top coats on by tea time and then job done in a day. The Studio Green doors look gorgeous IMO 👍🏻
Hi Charlie. I have watched a couple of your videos when you paint MDF. I have a Pro tip for you. Before applying any paint to the cut edges sand it to 320 grit ( I like to use abranet) this effectively burnishes the fluffy grain, then do as you have been with the zinsser or if you haven't tried it Tikkurilla Otex paint from Finland. Try it next time. Ollie
Just bought a 4 litre - painting my kitchen drawer/door panels. Going to spray mine on MR MDF followed by oil-based enamel. Thanks for the vid. Cheers from New Zealand
Bought my first house this year, & getting quite into the diy. Stumbled across your page when googling painting mdf. Amazing! I shall be buying some bin once wardrobes are built. Thank you for the tips! 😎
Hi Charlie, I am about to use Zinsser BIN for the first time ever when I found your channel. Now I can proceed with lots more confidence. Thank you. And oh, like you, I always use rollers when painting doors and large surfaces. Want a brush finish? well have one handy and simply finish of with some light stokes.
That's a good tip Kurt! Yep I love Zinsser BIN! Currently repainting the kitchen units, and getting a great finish with the simulation mohair mini rollers. I know some painters are snobbish and say you need a paint brush finish, but I don't think it's necessary, myself.
Great vid, I use cling film on the roller while still on the frame [only the roller part] it’s even cheaper than freezer bags. I don’t tend to leave paint overnight in the roller tray though. I always get bits in it. Lovely finish and the colour looks great. Hope your other half is pleased. Regards Mike
Thanks Mike. Yep, I've done that in the past as well - it's as good as the freezer bags and as you say, cheaper. Yes, she's pleased. We've just got to push on and finish the room now.
Good video again. I bung any size roller, still on the roller arm, in a supermarket bag and make sure its wrapped up tight, lasts for days. Colour looks stylish.
The flip side of that lovely dry time with shellac based finishes is that the alcohol is a toxic organic solvent with a very high vapor pressure. It's extremely flammable, and the vapors damage your nervous system. Even with good ventilation, it's prudent to use a respirator with cartridges rated for organic vapor. This is why I've historically been shy of shellac except on small pieces...stay safe!
Awesome! I was prepping my pine stair spindles for primer.. Butyl Acetate to get the stickers off and then shellac knotting compound, not really much ventilation. I had a hangover a couple of hours later...😂
As a professional painter I can confirm that the roller is the better way. We have one guy cutting edges with the brush & the other finishes the doors with the roller. If there are many doors we would use a spray gun. Great product mate
I spray this stuff with an hvlp gun. It dries so fast that it leaves a rough surface but a single pass with 220, and I mean a single swipe, and the finish is as smooth as my prepped surface. Perfect sealing undercoat for water based topcoats as well. Even successfully painted melamine cabinets with a ton of prep of course.
I have just bought an HVLP gun to spray a lot of MDF. Looking forward to using it. Have you had the chance to use it on tall MDF doors? I have been told that spraying just one side and leaving to dry before doing other side can result in bowing.
@@JohnnyMotel99 I have sprayed a few one side at a time with some SW Pro Classic(airless not hvlp btw) but they were pre-primed. I had no issues with those. If using a primer like BIN I doubt there would be issues, it dries so fast and seals very well.
Been in the painting and decorating trade for 16 years. It was only 2-3 years ago that I came across Zinnser bin and since then, I have not used thing else other than Zinnser bin for stuff like priming bare timber or when oil-based paint has turned yellow on woodwork!
You and me both. It's the only primer I own now! For you I imagine it's a godsend in terms of the drying times allowing you to get so much more done in the day.
Cleaning instructions on the can of B.I.N. states equal parts water and household ammonia or denatured alcohol. I like to use the ammonia with lemon and water 50-50 mix.
I think I have posted before but I can't recommend Zinsser Perma White enough for wood and walls. It is a fantastic paint which I have used on my bespoke bath panel and bathroom cupboards and after 1 year is still as white as it was from freshly painted, unlike other paints I have used. I'm about to update a pine draw unit to white to go under my white office desk and I have every confidence in both the BIN and the Perma White to do a great and permanent job.
@@CharlieDIYte not at all. I have a shop I temporarily turn into a booth with some clear poly. An airless handheld has limited overspray. I wouldn't say zero but limited. I can tell the care you put into your outcome, you'd love the sprayer.
Nice doors and great vid...That bin stuff is great and use plenty of it as a professional decorator.. especially where I'm going over previously oil based woodwork with waterbased.. it gives a great base and sticks unlike other products... so much cheaper in a b&q or screwfix than trade decorator stores..only thing I dont agree with on the tin where they say no need for sanding prior.. needs it even with a fine grade or wet n dry.. Zinsser are great... since using their permawhite in bathrooms I wont use anything else.. coverage not great but its durability is unmatched..
Prior to dipping your brush into your paint. Moisten the bristles first in whatever you use to clean it afterwards. It makes cleaning the brush even easier.
I have been using the johnstones trade aqua undercoat as a primer also on mdf excellent film build 3 coats and it's brilliant. the jono's aqua satin best water based satin on the market I once used the dulux trade quick drying satinwood in college and I'm glad I did. I was surprised how bad it was that was the first time a dulux product what I have used was comprehensively beaten.
Looks more like Robert Di Nero or Al Paccino. Doesnt matter. The informative video is fantastic. A nice honest talker. Doesnt play to the gallery. Just gives the ideas.
Like the colour. But you made me think about my plywood kitchen cabinet doors now hahaha… gosh that will be a lot of painting.. But I will try to find this colour.
Used this primer to repaint my kitchen doors and cabinets which are MDF covered with laminate followed your direction for using the primer and the gloss . Beautiful finish. Thanks!
Great stuff - I primed some of our bare timber window boards (cills) with water-based primer. It raised the grain in the wood which meant sanding it down. Much better to use BIN shellac-based primer for this reason. Johnstone's Stain Away matt is great for ceiling stains caused by water and it's water-based.
Thanks James. Yes I use BIN to prime everything these days. Only time I don't is in the heat of the summer when it dries too quickly to get it off the brush. Thanks for the Johnstone's tip - my other favourite paint brand. 👍
Put the rollers in tightly wrapped cling film, they've lasted weeks in between usage for me like this. Also B.I.N is the dogs of all primers, especially on MDF.
Thanks mate. I did experiment with Zinsser Bullseye 123 recently th-cam.com/video/cn4G4CQWpqQ/w-d-xo.html and whilst it's fine and you wash the brushes/rollers in water, I've come back to BIN for the drawers because you just can't beat it for coverage and for painting the end grains.
Used BIN on bare pine skirting the knot's need a 2nd coat to prevent any resin migration into the top coat 'water' based gloss. Also if the BIN dries on glass it can be removed with meths..
I would suggest using a sanding block for sanding in addition to hand sanding with a piece of sand paper. You may use a piece of wood with the paper wrapped around it or (better), spray the wood block and the sand paper with contact cement, wait 2-4 minutes, then wrap the sand paper around the block. Now it's a tight contact and will be there permanently. Another option is to purchase a hard rubber sanding block with slits cut in each end for the sanding paper to slide into. These can be found online or at a wood working specialty store. Some paint stores will carry them as well. Good luck!
Two things. First there are several types of Zinser primer stain blocker so make sure you purchase the correct one. Second. You don't have to clean brushes between coats. Even if the brushes go hard just dip them into the paint a few times and they come back to life. Zinser is amazing paint/primer.
Would you recomend Zinsser BIN as an undercoat for varnished door frames?I need something that will stick to the varnish well as I do not want to sand it, but it must also stop tannin bleed, I am assuming Zinsser BIN is the best choice?
Thanks!!!!!!! I bought a small can of this to shellac a closet (for sealing in cigarette odor from previous owners!). I have been procrastinating using it, since I kept reading reviews on how shellac is "drippy" (did not look forward to that). Watching your demo is reassuring, and I will be tackling the project today!!
The drippy nature of it struck me too when I first used it - particularly when compared to for example Johnstone's MDF primer which is quite thick. But the thin consistency is what I LOVE about this paint now because it makes it SO easy to apply, and you can absolutely drench the MDF edges in it to really seal well. Also it dries so quickly you'll have the whole unit painted so much quicker than you would with the non shellac alterative.
Zinsser recommend their water based 123 primer for MDF why is it that you chose to not use a less expensive and maybe more suitable product for this project video? P.S. I did like the video just not sure the product choice is steering budding diy folk in the wrong direction
@@MICHAELSMITH-fl7du I have followed Charlie’s more recent guidance & views on BIN -v- 123. I have found the water-based Zinsser an absolute nightmare on raw MDF. I’m on the third coat and it’s patchy/blotchy. Am going out tomorrow to get the BIN. Sand everything thoroughly and (more or less) start again. Soooooo depressing.
Lovely video. I’ve been recommended to use Bedec Multi Surface Paint by my local Independent decorator centre who say it’s an excellent product for bare PDF that doesn’t need sealing etc.
Thanks Phil. Yes, I've heard of Bedec. I'm sure you can't go wrong with that. You have to stay away from BIN at this time of year because it dries before you can get it off the brush or roller! 👍
Thank you for this video. I will be making and installing an MDF bath panel in the next week or two from scratch and repainting all the other woodwork in the bathroom. My choice of paint will be Zinsser Bull's Eye 123 primer which is a water based primer with Biocide protection against fungal degradation and thus suitable in areas of high humidity. I will thoroughly seal the unseen edges of the panel with neat Gorilla wood glue to protect them from water ingress before priming. After priming I will give the panel two coats of Zinsser Perma- White as a finish, which has a lifetime durability guarantee as well as preventing the growth of mould and mildew. It would be interesting to know what you think of the Perma-White paint if you get round to trying it. PS. Cheapest place to buy Zinsser paint I have found is Screwfix.
In the last year I have painted my bathroom ceiling and a friend's also. Used dulux bathroom on mine and zinsser permawhite on theirs - mine has flaked and required repairs and theirs looks amazing still. I did the same prep work on both ceilings, and both bathrooms are well ventilated so I know I'll only use zinsser from now on
Great video. You’ve convinced me to give this a try. Good to see that according to the symbols you can spray this on too. Just had the Wagner spray delivered so sounds like a perfect combo!
I agree, I use it all the time, it’s like get out of jail paint. It will take anything and go on anything - the only thing is it’s expensive and messy if you don’t know what you’re doing..
I've sanded old gloss from x 3 doors and x 3 windows frames.. before I add paint I want to be sure I'm using a good trustworthy system although I'd probably try use Aqua Guard over BIN
Skip the methylated spirits, just use a quick household ammonia soak as a first rinse, then clean the brush/roller with soap and water... The ammonia soak can also be used to easily recover any brushes or even rollers that were accidently allowed to entirely dry with the shellac on them...
Hi Charlie, I bought a brush cleaning tool called "Dandy" some time ago, it has two jigs for want of a better name that fit in a drill and one takes a brush held by big springs and the other one takes a roller. The jigs use ventricular force to clean the brush or roller and makes a fantastic job of getting all the paint out even though I tend to get paint right up into the top pf a brush. It is so simple even an idiot like me can get fantastically clean brushes. I thought it would be in every store by now but it seems to have not been successful on the sales side and I have never seen the item since.
Thanks John - I would have replied earlier but your comment was languishing in the review folder for some reason. Great tip and I might have to buy one of these as I took ages last weekend cleaning a roller head I've been using to paint the outside of the house. They sell this on Amazon goo.gl/tRXVKW. Mixed reviews including some quite amusing ones about paint brushes flying over fences into the neighbours garden. Have you found it to be sturdy enough?
Yes. I'm sitting here with 123 & wondering if I should use this and then my Behr satin acrylic oil paint stuff on top. Now I'm not sure. Sheesh. I'm sure whatever I do will look load better than what I currently have in my kitchen. That's my philosophy anymore
Great video! If I am going to clean some old dirty wood doors, potentially have mold seeped into them, although it’s brownish not a dark black like was in the garage (zinsser worked great there). After wiping the doors down to clean surface …Do I need to hit these doors with any sanding? And should I use the zinsser primer and then the perma white top coat as I did in the garage? Thank you!
Be interested if you have used zinsser bullseye 1-2-3? Being water based this looks like the perfect solution to everything. Love the videos. Keep it up
I use BIN all the time, but don't put it on the MDF end grain until it's had 3 coats of emulsion paint first and I am happy with the look!!! Forgot the sanding between coats with with 220 grit.
I also use B.I.N for covering stains so it's good for small areas in particular. I don't clean my brushes, I simply store them in a jar in meths, covered with a strong plastic bag and rubber band to slow evaporation. If the brushes dry out they can be soaked in meths for a while and will be back to normal.
Hi I'm new to painting. Can I paint the Zinner primer start on laminate? I want to paint two bedside cabinets. I'll appreciate your answer. Many thanks
Was advised by Dulux customer support to use Zinser B-I-N in my garage office conversion because on the terrible advice of a sales assistant at B&Q I had painted 2 coats of Dulux Exterior Weathershield on the cement wall in the new office room in the garage. One year later the room was still uninhabitable because of the mildicide/fungicide odours from the exterior paint. B&Q had given me emulsion to coat over the top of the Weathershield after I complained, which I applied two coats of but it didn't make a difference to the odour problem. Thankfully the Zinser B-I-N has all but eliminated the odour. I only used one coat - I don't care about top coat as I just want to use the office. I can see that it wasn't evenly applied, perhaps it wasn't mixed well enough. Some parts are more glossy that others. However, you can see the pleasant colour of the primer fairly evenly throughout and it really did do the trick re. the odour as far as I'm concerned. I'm sure 95% of the original surface area painted with Weathershield is now sealed, some parts are underneath skirting board and behind a radiator. If the smell returns in any way I wouldn't hesitate to do another coat of the primer.
Forget the Zinsser and get hold of the Smith & Rodgers blockade instead, doesn't smell as much, flows much better, superior coverage and cheaper, everyone has switched and Zinsser aren't very happy about it lol. Well worth giving it a try. i think it's even thinner, but not sure on that one.
We have just bought a new house and the kitchen is lovely but I dont like the colour very much. Would I be able to use this to paint the cupboard doors, frames etc would you say it is hardwearing enough? What top coat would you recommend? Thank you for any advice.
I have a three bedroom house, the whole house is been redecorated, all the woodwork gloss needs to be keyed up, skirting, door casing, doors, I'm using 120 gritt by hand, at the moment, feels like hard work, going to use scuff x satin brushed on as the finishing coat , but is there a better or quicker method, maybe using a detail sander or a sheet sander, or is that going to over key it?
Thank you for awesome videos! They are very helpful. Have you tried Jotun’s superheft? How does that product compare to Zinsser’s BIN? Zinsser is somewhat difficult to get hold of in Sweden.
Thanks so much - in humbled you find my vids useful - was from Sweden no less!! I haven't tried that unfortunately but it looks very hard wearing stuff👌.
Been a decorator for about 40 years now and I must say the Zinsser BIN is a game changer , it’s got me out of a few painting issues . Worth every penny 🙏🏻👍🏻
Quick tip from a professional decorator, shellac is a reversible compound so if your brush goes hard just put it back into some zinsser or meths and it will soften back up. Zinsser is the best primer out there and I always have some in my van, you can have it tinted too so grey would be better for colours like green, blues, brown and reds.....
Henry do you ever spray it? I have a conventional spray gun and would love to know what size tip to use... it seems very thin. A 1.5? Appreciate any advice thank you
@@unusualpond yeah I have sprayed it, I used a cheap Earlex spray unit which I bought for spraying outdoor fencing panels and the like, I paid about £100 for it from Amazon, I had about 15 six panel doors to paint white that had been previously stained with a deep mahogany so a minimum of 3 coats per side, that's 90 door side's which is a lot of work using a brush and mini rollers, for a cheap DIY unit that just uses air to a gun and cup it did really well, just need to keep the spray tip clean and clear like any spray gun....
@@unusualpond yeah I have sprayed it, I used a cheap Earlex spray unit which I bought for spraying outdoor fencing panels and the like, I paid about £100 for it from Amazon, I had about 15 six panel doors to paint white that had been previously stained with a deep mahogany so a minimum of 3 coats per side, that's 90 door side's which is a lot of work using a brush and mini rollers, for a cheap DIY unit that just uses air to a gun and cup it did really well, just need to keep the spray tip clean and clear like any spray gun....
What kind of paint do you add to add to zin to tint it. is it just undercaot..my finish cost is blue
You didn't sand your primer why ?
I love using BIN. I've had great success with it when priming metal doors exposed to harsh Chicago seasons, sealing wall board around bath tubs and showers, trim(obviously), sealing the odors and stains from disgusting nicotine. It's perfect for pretty much everything. My pops said that it did wonders when he was doing fire damage repair 35 years ago. It made the crappiest looking plaster or drywall repairable. I hope it helps you with other projects in the future.
Cling film for wrapping brushes,trays,rollers.
Best tip I’ve got is let paint build up in trays,and simply cut and peel off in one piece after about 20 uses.
Saves so much time and water.And the environment!
Have just finished my first build of shelves and cabinet and used this video to help. Proper chuffed with the results
I found this video searching for priming with Zinsser BIN as I’m about to start a kitchen cabinet paint project. It was great to see someone actually completing a paint job using the Zinsser and the finish coat. Your doors look great! You might not see this as this video is over two years old, but I wanted to thank you for showing how it’s done. Cheers!
Thanks Diane. I really appreciate that. Here's a kitchen repaint I did recently. Just make sure you degrease the units before painting with sugar soap or similar, and don't use Valspar. It's fine but chips far too easily 👍🏻 th-cam.com/video/x-dzF4H0km8/w-d-xo.html
Can you paint this straight on laminate bedside cabinets?
I saw it now. 6/2021. Good deal...thx
@@CharlieDIYteWhich rollers are you using in this video?
Hi, Charlie! (10:29) About MDF edges: I sand them by hand with 60 grit first, just a few strokes are enough (that cleans the roughness and marks of the blade), and then I go directly to 220 with an orbital sander, *before painting*. That leaves the surface smooth as glass to the eye and touch, and is super quick. ;)
The key to that method is that the MDF is heating up from friction, to soften the resin in the MDF. I recommend using even finer grit, like 400 or even 600.
@@barebaric I've tried, but if you use a finer grit, the surface has no bite for the paint and the roller just slides instead of applying paint (I obviously paint with a roller, I don't have a machine, I'm a poor Argentinian 🤣).
Zinsser BIN is fantastic on mdf. It is all i use now. I find it gives cut/routed edges a harder edge to it, much like the face of mdf. With mdf just sand in one direction as going in both directions flattens the ''grain'' and then raises it again going in the opposite direction. My workflow for mdf is sand the cut edges to 180g, 1st coat BIN, let it dry properly. Denib with 220/240g paper, 2nd coat of BIN. Let that dry overnight, then denib again with 240g paper. While not needed i then put 2 coats of undercoat on, again flatting between coats, this time with 320g. Then let it dry and flatten with 400g paper and then 2 top coats and flattening between coats. That always gives me a really smooth finish, one that feels like glass. :)
Thank you very much for the tips especially the one on how to clean the brushes with three jars what a good idea and I will be getting the Zinsser bin after this.
You're welcome and actually you'll find it easier to clean shellac paint like this off the brushes than oil based. Get some of these amzn.to/36q4uMv (affiliate link) as they're great for getting caked on paint off the brushes. 👍
@Charlie DIYte thanks again it’s much appreciated,keep up the good work
Brilliant video.. love the studio green colour, will need to use that myself sometime! Quick tip.. I place the roller trays into a bag before putting the paint in... once finished, throw the bag away and you have a brand new roller tray for the next job!
I have used several Zinsser paints. They are excellent and worth every penny.
I agree. 👍
Zinsser BIN is a amazing product and personally, after discovering it I wouldn't prime with any other paint now. If you're in the Painting and Decorating trade with time being your enemy, the drying time is ridiculously good.
TH-cam delivers again just when I’m preparing to paint my kitchen cabinets, the doors were wrapped and parts have failed and don’t like the colour any more , can’t wait to binge watch more for tips on everything.
Take care x
Thanks so much Karen. Really great to have you on board and I appreciate you watching my vids 🙏
Excellent stuff BIN. I used it on my varnished skirting boards and it covered everything in 2 coats. Being able to get 2 coats on a whole room in a morning is an absolute winner because at a push you can get 2 top coats on by tea time and then job done in a day. The Studio Green doors look gorgeous IMO 👍🏻
Hi Charlie. I have watched a couple of your videos when you paint MDF. I have a Pro tip for you. Before applying any paint to the cut edges sand it to 320 grit ( I like to use abranet) this effectively burnishes the fluffy grain, then do as you have been with the zinsser or if you haven't tried it Tikkurilla Otex paint from Finland. Try it next time.
Ollie
Ollie - that's invaluable. Many thanks - I'll give that a go!
Just bought a 4 litre - painting my kitchen drawer/door panels. Going to spray mine on MR MDF followed by oil-based enamel. Thanks for the vid. Cheers from New Zealand
That'll be a great job. You're wise to go oil based. So much more durable. 👍🏻
Bought my first house this year, & getting quite into the diy. Stumbled across your page when googling painting mdf. Amazing! I shall be buying some bin once wardrobes are built. Thank you for the tips! 😎
Just stumbled on your comment Joanna. Hope the DIY's going well 👍
@@CharlieDIYte it is! I've bought a drill 🤣 I can put up shelves. I've wallpapered & painted most of the house. Now I'm doing the garden & decking 😊
Hi Charlie, I am about to use Zinsser BIN for the first time ever when I found your channel. Now I can proceed with lots more confidence. Thank you. And oh, like you, I always use rollers when painting doors and large surfaces. Want a brush finish? well have one handy and simply finish of with some light stokes.
That's a good tip Kurt! Yep I love Zinsser BIN! Currently repainting the kitchen units, and getting a great finish with the simulation mohair mini rollers. I know some painters are snobbish and say you need a paint brush finish, but I don't think it's necessary, myself.
Great vid, I use cling film on the roller while still on the frame [only the roller part] it’s even cheaper than freezer bags. I don’t tend to leave paint overnight in the roller tray though. I always get bits in it. Lovely finish and the colour looks great. Hope your other half is pleased. Regards Mike
Thanks Mike. Yep, I've done that in the past as well - it's as good as the freezer bags and as you say, cheaper. Yes, she's pleased. We've just got to push on and finish the room now.
You should paint inside the paneling with a brush the go over with a roller to prevent the edging that you can see at the end of the video.
They look gorgeous
Thank you. I've just finished a 7 vid wardrobe build of you have time to watch it 👍🏻
Good video again. I bung any size roller, still on the roller arm, in a supermarket bag and make sure its wrapped up tight, lasts for days. Colour looks stylish.
Thanks Paul - good tip. Glad you like the colour - it was a bit of a gamble!
The flip side of that lovely dry time with shellac based finishes is that the alcohol is a toxic organic solvent with a very high vapor pressure. It's extremely flammable, and the vapors damage your nervous system. Even with good ventilation, it's prudent to use a respirator with cartridges rated for organic vapor.
This is why I've historically been shy of shellac except on small pieces...stay safe!
Awesome! I was prepping my pine stair spindles for primer.. Butyl Acetate to get the stickers off and then shellac knotting compound, not really much ventilation. I had a hangover a couple of hours later...😂
@@Dang_Lin-WangPeople drink alcohol
Another excellent video Charlie. The doors look extremely nice. Big thumbs up from me. 👍🏻
Thanks Alex. Yes, they're still looking good. It's still my only choice of primer at the moment!
As a professional painter I can confirm that the roller is the better way.
We have one guy cutting edges with the brush & the other finishes the doors with the roller.
If there are many doors we would use a spray gun.
Great product mate
That's good to hear from a pro. Thanks mate. 👍
Good stuff. Solves a lot of problems and easy to work with.
Agreed. Why use anything else?
I spray this stuff with an hvlp gun. It dries so fast that it leaves a rough surface but a single pass with 220, and I mean a single swipe, and the finish is as smooth as my prepped surface. Perfect sealing undercoat for water based topcoats as well. Even successfully painted melamine cabinets with a ton of prep of course.
I have just bought an HVLP gun to spray a lot of MDF. Looking forward to using it.
Have you had the chance to use it on tall MDF doors? I have been told that spraying just one side and leaving to dry before doing other side can result in bowing.
@@JohnnyMotel99 I have sprayed a few one side at a time with some SW Pro Classic(airless not hvlp btw) but they were pre-primed. I had no issues with those. If using a primer like BIN I doubt there would be issues, it dries so fast and seals very well.
love the colour and the finish is top i totaly agree bin zinsser is the top off the range.
Ratch Riat Thanks, and good to hear from you again!
Thanks again Charlie, just watched this video again as I’m just about to prime my mfd jewellery armoire. Great video 🙏❤️
Thanks Karen.. Good choice, it's such a good primer and thanks so much for watching my vids. 🙏
Not well known paint manufacturer is Tikkurila. Otex is their primer/undercoat. Excellent coverage and adhesion surface for whatever comes next.
Been in the painting and decorating trade for 16 years. It was only 2-3 years ago that I came across Zinnser bin and since then, I have not used thing else other than Zinnser bin for stuff like priming bare timber or when oil-based paint has turned yellow on woodwork!
You and me both. It's the only primer I own now! For you I imagine it's a godsend in terms of the drying times allowing you to get so much more done in the day.
ammonia with water 50-50 ,cleans shellac base products (including bin) as good as denatured alcohol (methylated spirits) for much cheaper cost.
Ah, great tip! Thanks for that.
Cleaning instructions on the can of B.I.N. states equal parts water and household ammonia or denatured alcohol. I like to use the ammonia with lemon and water 50-50 mix.
Soooo I can just run DEF through my airless to clean it after?
I think I have posted before but I can't recommend Zinsser Perma White enough for wood and walls. It is a fantastic paint which I have used on my bespoke bath panel and bathroom cupboards and after 1 year is still as white as it was from freshly painted, unlike other paints I have used. I'm about to update a pine draw unit to white to go under my white office desk and I have every confidence in both the BIN and the Perma White to do a great and permanent job.
Just the advice (and demonstration) I was looking for. Thanks so much.
You're welcome Mike. It's still my preferred primer. Love the stuff!
I went and purchased the Binns primer and undercoat on your recommendation and it is absolutely brilliant it’s a joy to use so easy to apply
Been toying with getting to grips with BIN myself. You’ve just made my mind up. Thanks. Great vid as always.
Thanks David. Yep, definitely give it a go, and let me know how you get on!
You'll never go back once you've used B.I.N.
John Morton I'll second that!
One more thing Charlie DIYte, please buy a track/plunge saw, they are awesome for your kind of panel work with doors ect...
You're a good DIY're. Get yourself a nice little Graco Handheld and you'll have amazing finishes on your products.
Thanks for the tip. I'll make a note of that!👍🏻 I'm guessing you need a paint booth though?
@@CharlieDIYte not at all. I have a shop I temporarily turn into a booth with some clear poly. An airless handheld has limited overspray. I wouldn't say zero but limited. I can tell the care you put into your outcome, you'd love the sprayer.
Nice doors and great vid...That bin stuff is great and use plenty of it as a professional decorator.. especially where I'm going over previously oil based woodwork with waterbased.. it gives a great base and sticks unlike other products... so much cheaper in a b&q or screwfix than trade decorator stores..only thing I dont agree with on the tin where they say no need for sanding prior.. needs it even with a fine grade or wet n dry..
Zinsser are great... since using their permawhite in bathrooms I wont use anything else.. coverage not great but its durability is unmatched..
Love it when Charlie breaks out the deep beats
Prior to dipping your brush into your paint. Moisten the bristles first in whatever you use to clean it afterwards. It makes cleaning the brush even easier.
Love zinsser, love the colour
Thanks. It's great said isn't it.
Hi Charlie...just came upon your videos looking for up -cycling MDF advice.... very clear advice...thank you, you have a new subscriber! 👍🏼
Hello again, Suzi. How funny, I've just forwarded you a link to this video. Thanks SO MUCH for subscribing - I really appreciate it!
I have been using the johnstones trade aqua undercoat as a primer also on mdf excellent film build 3 coats and it's brilliant. the jono's aqua satin best water based satin on the market I once used the dulux trade quick drying satinwood in college and I'm glad I did. I was surprised how bad it was that was the first time a dulux product what I have used was comprehensively beaten.
Thanks for this mate. I swear by Johnstone's!
Looks more like Robert Di Nero or Al Paccino. Doesnt matter. The informative video is fantastic. A nice honest talker. Doesnt play to the gallery. Just gives the ideas.
Thanks buddy. De Nero or Paccino is better than the usual comparisons - Gordon Ramsay and Keith Floyd. I'll take that 👍
Like the colour. But you made me think about my plywood kitchen cabinet doors now hahaha… gosh that will be a lot of painting.. But I will try to find this colour.
Wow that looks amazing you so good
Thank you Sonia. It's great stuff 👌
Used this primer to repaint my kitchen doors and cabinets which are MDF covered with laminate followed your direction for using the primer and the gloss . Beautiful finish. Thanks!
I’m currently doing the same. How long did you leave it before applying your top coat of paint?
Great stuff - I primed some of our bare timber window boards (cills) with water-based primer. It raised the grain in the wood which meant sanding it down. Much better to use BIN shellac-based primer for this reason. Johnstone's Stain Away matt is great for ceiling stains caused by water and it's water-based.
Thanks James. Yes I use BIN to prime everything these days. Only time I don't is in the heat of the summer when it dries too quickly to get it off the brush. Thanks for the Johnstone's tip - my other favourite paint brand. 👍
Thanks Charlie great advice.
You're welcome. Thanks for the Comment. This is still my go to primer for everything. 👍
Put the rollers in tightly wrapped cling film, they've lasted weeks in between usage for me like this.
Also B.I.N is the dogs of all primers, especially on MDF.
Hi I'd like to know how did it hold up since ? Durability? Any chipped or flaking?
Excellent teacher !!!! Many thanks !!!!!
Brilliant video, I’m just about to start kitchen units which are light oak and have been recommended to use B - I - N as a primer.
Thanks mate. I did experiment with Zinsser Bullseye 123 recently th-cam.com/video/cn4G4CQWpqQ/w-d-xo.html and whilst it's fine and you wash the brushes/rollers in water, I've come back to BIN for the drawers because you just can't beat it for coverage and for painting the end grains.
I’ve seen this in the hardware stores. Will def give it a try! 👍
You won't look back. It's all I use now for priming 👍
Used BIN on bare pine skirting the knot's need a 2nd coat to prevent any resin migration into the top coat 'water' based gloss. Also if the BIN dries on glass it can be removed with meths..
I would suggest using a sanding block for sanding in addition to hand sanding with a piece of sand paper. You may use a piece of wood with the paper wrapped around it or (better), spray the wood block and the sand paper with contact cement, wait 2-4 minutes, then wrap the sand paper around the block. Now it's a tight contact and will be there permanently. Another option is to purchase a hard rubber sanding block with slits cut in each end for the sanding paper to slide into. These can be found online or at a wood working specialty store. Some paint stores will carry them as well. Good luck!
Two things.
First there are several types of Zinser primer stain blocker so make sure you purchase the correct one. Second. You don't have to clean brushes between coats. Even if the brushes go hard just dip them into the paint a few times and they come back to life. Zinser is amazing paint/primer.
Would you recomend Zinsser BIN as an undercoat for varnished door frames?I need something that will stick to the varnish well as I do not want to sand it, but it must also stop tannin bleed, I am assuming Zinsser BIN is the best choice?
Thanks!!!!!!! I bought a small can of this to shellac a closet (for sealing in cigarette odor from previous owners!).
I have been procrastinating using it, since I kept reading reviews on how shellac is "drippy" (did not look forward to that).
Watching your demo is reassuring, and I will be tackling the project today!!
The drippy nature of it struck me too when I first used it - particularly when compared to for example Johnstone's MDF primer which is quite thick. But the thin consistency is what I LOVE about this paint now because it makes it SO easy to apply, and you can absolutely drench the MDF edges in it to really seal well. Also it dries so quickly you'll have the whole unit painted so much quicker than you would with the non shellac alterative.
Zinsser recommend their water based 123 primer for MDF why is it that you chose to not use a less expensive and maybe more suitable product for this project video?
P.S. I did like the video just not sure the product choice is steering budding diy folk in the wrong direction
@@MICHAELSMITH-fl7du I have followed Charlie’s more recent guidance & views on BIN -v- 123. I have found the water-based Zinsser an absolute nightmare on raw MDF. I’m on the third coat and it’s patchy/blotchy. Am going out tomorrow to get the BIN. Sand everything thoroughly and (more or less) start again. Soooooo depressing.
Lovely video. I’ve been recommended to use Bedec Multi Surface Paint by my local
Independent decorator centre who say it’s an excellent product for bare PDF that doesn’t need sealing etc.
Thanks Phil. Yes, I've heard of Bedec. I'm sure you can't go wrong with that. You have to stay away from BIN at this time of year because it dries before you can get it off the brush or roller! 👍
Thank you for this video. I will be making and installing an MDF bath panel in the next week or two from scratch and repainting all the other woodwork in the bathroom. My choice of paint will be Zinsser Bull's Eye 123 primer which is a water based primer with Biocide protection against fungal degradation and thus suitable in areas of high humidity. I will thoroughly seal the unseen edges of the panel with neat Gorilla wood glue to protect them from water ingress before priming. After priming I will give the panel two coats of Zinsser Perma- White as a finish, which has a lifetime durability guarantee as well as preventing the growth of mould and mildew. It would be interesting to know what you think of the Perma-White paint if you get round to trying it.
PS. Cheapest place to buy Zinsser paint I have found is Screwfix.
In the last year I have painted my bathroom ceiling and a friend's also. Used dulux bathroom on mine and zinsser permawhite on theirs - mine has flaked and required repairs and theirs looks amazing still. I did the same prep work on both ceilings, and both bathrooms are well ventilated so I know I'll only use zinsser from now on
Great video. You’ve convinced me to give this a try. Good to see that according to the symbols you can spray this on too. Just had the Wagner spray delivered so sounds like a perfect combo!
I agree, I use it all the time, it’s like get out of jail paint. It will take anything and go on anything - the only thing is it’s expensive and messy if you don’t know what you’re doing..
I've sanded old gloss from x 3 doors and x 3 windows frames.. before I add paint I want to be sure I'm using a good trustworthy system although I'd probably try use Aqua Guard over BIN
Skip the methylated spirits, just use a quick household ammonia soak as a first rinse, then clean the brush/roller with soap and water... The ammonia soak can also be used to easily recover any brushes or even rollers that were accidently allowed to entirely dry with the shellac on them...
Thanks for sharing that. Great tip 👍
Hi Charlie, I bought a brush cleaning tool called "Dandy" some time ago, it has two jigs for want of a better name that fit in a drill and one takes a brush held by big springs and the other one takes a roller. The jigs use ventricular force to clean the brush or roller and makes a fantastic job of getting all the paint out even though I tend to get paint right up into the top pf a brush. It is so simple even an idiot like me can get fantastically clean brushes. I thought it would be in every store by now but it seems to have not been successful on the sales side and I have never seen the item since.
Thanks John - I would have replied earlier but your comment was languishing in the review folder for some reason. Great tip and I might have to buy one of these as I took ages last weekend cleaning a roller head I've been using to paint the outside of the house. They sell this on Amazon goo.gl/tRXVKW. Mixed reviews including some quite amusing ones about paint brushes flying over fences into the neighbours garden. Have you found it to be sturdy enough?
Cheaper in screw-fix
. Really good stuff.
Great presentation bud
Thanks mate 👍🏻
Thanks for time and knowledge
Looks good! For the MDF endgrain I sometimes use polyester filler to get really smooth
Hi Charlie. What is the difference in using your BIN and the 123. Both are primer-sealer and stain killer?
Regards
Paul
Yes. I'm sitting here with 123 & wondering if I should use this and then my Behr satin acrylic oil paint stuff on top. Now I'm not sure. Sheesh. I'm sure whatever I do will look load better than what I currently have in my kitchen. That's my philosophy anymore
Great video! If I am going to clean some old dirty wood doors, potentially have mold seeped into them, although it’s brownish not a dark black like was in the garage (zinsser worked great there). After wiping the doors down to clean surface …Do I need to hit these doors with any sanding? And should I use the zinsser primer and then the perma white top coat as I did in the garage? Thank you!
I would get some sugar soap on them to give them a clean and degrease and then yes sand them to provide a good key for the paint. 👍
Hi great tips! Do you need to sand or back roll if you spray over oil?
Beautiful. Good work Charlie!
Aw, thanks!
Hi, Great tutorial thank you. Please can you advise what type of paint can be applied onto this primer? i am thinking of using Farrow and Ball?
Yes you can certainly apply acrylic water based paints to this primer, including Farrow and Ball.
Be interested if you have used zinsser bullseye 1-2-3? Being water based this looks like the perfect solution to everything. Love the videos. Keep it up
Thanks Eric. I haven't tried the Bullseye as I'm such a fan of the shellac, but you're right and I'll check it out asap!
Bullseye is a fantastic basecoat for bathroom walls and ceilings, I wouldn't use anything else.
Was planning on picking up some BIN for a mdf paint job I have to do. Will Bullseye 321 suffice, I have some left over from a previous job.
@@moolersz Yes, Bulls eye is a an all round primer, just can't use it on varnish oddly. and not recommended to cover up wood stain.
I use BIN all the time, but don't put it on the MDF end grain until it's had 3 coats of emulsion paint first and I am happy with the look!!! Forgot the sanding between coats with with 220 grit.
I also use B.I.N for covering stains so it's good for small areas in particular. I don't clean my brushes, I simply store them in a jar in meths, covered with a strong plastic bag and rubber band to slow evaporation. If the brushes dry out they can be soaked in meths for a while and will be back to normal.
You can also clean BIN with denatured alcohol or more readily available ammonia. To finish cleaning I then use hot soapy water.
Check out Monarch Razorback rollers. Sprung loaded roller head and storage pot. I've been using them for ages.
Flush hinges video charlie. I need ittttttt. Great vids love your channel.
Hi I'm new to painting. Can I paint the Zinner primer start on laminate? I want to paint two bedside cabinets. I'll appreciate your answer. Many thanks
I love leatherman wave
They're great bits of kit aren't they. I think I've got the Surge.
The studio green color, looks similar to the Earl Grey by Sherwin Williams. It's a very pretty color when combined with white or in a large area.
This looks great, and thank you for the subscription
Can I ask if this is ok to deal plasterboard due to shellac component?
Yes you can use it on plasterboard. If it's newly plastered I would always use a mist coat but to cover stains and treated mould, yes it's great.
Was advised by Dulux customer support to use Zinser B-I-N in my garage office conversion because on the terrible advice of a sales assistant at B&Q I had painted 2 coats of Dulux Exterior Weathershield on the cement wall in the new office room in the garage. One year later the room was still uninhabitable because of the mildicide/fungicide odours from the exterior paint. B&Q had given me emulsion to coat over the top of the Weathershield after I complained, which I applied two coats of but it didn't make a difference to the odour problem. Thankfully the Zinser B-I-N has all but eliminated the odour. I only used one coat - I don't care about top coat as I just want to use the office. I can see that it wasn't evenly applied, perhaps it wasn't mixed well enough. Some parts are more glossy that others. However, you can see the pleasant colour of the primer fairly evenly throughout and it really did do the trick re. the odour as far as I'm concerned. I'm sure 95% of the original surface area painted with Weathershield is now sealed, some parts are underneath skirting board and behind a radiator. If the smell returns in any way I wouldn't hesitate to do another coat of the primer.
Another fantastic video Really enjoyed it
That's really kind Gordon, thanks!
Hi. Did you sand the primer in between applications? If so, what grit sandpaper?
I imagine it's probably at least 120 grit.
BIN is the best that's all
I agree!!
Forget the Zinsser and get hold of the Smith & Rodgers blockade instead, doesn't smell as much, flows much better, superior coverage and cheaper, everyone has switched and Zinsser aren't very happy about it lol. Well worth giving it a try. i think it's even thinner, but not sure on that one.
I have tried knotting fluid on MDF edges with good results.
Never heard of Smith's amd roger where do get it
@@johnjtplastering6991 Crown decorating centres, Kent Blaxill decorating centers, or online at Topdec
Ok thanks
@@johnjtplastering6991 it's a Scottish product, cheaper then BIN, doesn't smell as much. but a bit runny (don't use on a ceiling)
Great share, thanks so much! 😀
You're welcome. Many thanks for the comment👍🏻
Have you tried the 5mm smooth two fussy blokes rollers and if so what do you think of them ?
I haven't Peter, but I'll check them out. Thanks for the recommendation 👍🏻
Hi there, if it was for a cupboard door in the kitchen area, would you use the same paint Charlie?
We have just bought a new house and the kitchen is lovely but I dont like the colour very much. Would I be able to use this to paint the cupboard doors, frames etc would you say it is hardwearing enough? What top coat would you recommend? Thank you for any advice.
are you using the foam roller or the cloth style one
I clean bin with a 50/50 solution of water and ammonia. Super easy. Soak in the mixture for a few minutes and then rinse in the sink.
well done Charlie
Thanks Bart!
You can also thin it down a bit to go further , but you must use methylated spirits
I have a three bedroom house, the whole house is been redecorated, all the woodwork gloss needs to be keyed up, skirting, door casing, doors, I'm using 120 gritt by hand, at the moment, feels like hard work, going to use scuff x satin brushed on as the finishing coat , but is there a better or quicker method, maybe using a detail sander or a sheet sander, or is that going to over key it?
Can you apply water base paint over BIN primer?
Yes you can.
@@CharlieDIYte but the primer. Has to be water base also? Thank you
Thank you for awesome videos! They are very helpful. Have you tried Jotun’s superheft? How does that product compare to Zinsser’s BIN? Zinsser is somewhat difficult to get hold of in Sweden.
Thanks so much - in humbled you find my vids useful - was from Sweden no less!! I haven't tried that unfortunately but it looks very hard wearing stuff👌.