Painting MDF Doors [video 407]
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- In this video we go back to basics and I share my method for #painting #MDF #doors with a brush and roller to show how the simplest of tools can achieve a top finish. Enjoy!
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Graco Ultraax 12 months on • Graco Ultramax 12 mont...
Premium rollers - • Premium rollers #150
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Used/featured in this video:-
Mirka Deros 240v (NB better prices available elsewhere) - amzn.to/37DbmCH
Rota concave foam rollers - amzn.to/3epXQVn (US - similar: amzn.to/2Co93Yo)
Two Fussy Blokes rollers - amzn.to/3eBa2Tz (US: nope, sorry)
Hamilton sash brush - amzn.to/3fKLeZd (US - similar; amzn.to/3hSPibF)
Leyland acrylic primer/undercoat - amzn.to/3hPck3k (US: no idea, sorry)
Leyland acrylic eggshell - amzn.to/2YPNZ4w (US: nope, sorry)
Paint tray liner - amzn.to/2NlGoFA (US - similar: amzn.to/2NpiYPz)
Paintable edging tape - amzn.to/3110ZHv (US - similar:amzn.to/3drERIB)
Stanley edgeband trimmer - amzn.to/3fNPUgP (US - similar: amzn.to/2zRVoIe)
Cardboard corner protectors - amzn.to/3eoVTbU (US - similar: amzn.to/37NnDV9)
Festool ETS 125 - amzn.to/2RSAEDD (US: amzn.to/2JZy0t5)
Festool ETS 150/5 - amzn.to/2sapsq9 (US: amzn.to/2ssbZgq)
Festool MFT - amzn.to/2x49HHE (US: amzn.to/2J25aKy)
Festool Midi extractor - amzn.to/2tCIN3Q (US: amzn.to/2rKNIOx)
Festool lever clamp - amzn.to/2pOohLD (US: amzn.to/2pnFZIM)
Moldex 6810 in-ear defenders - amzn.to/2P2c5nP (US:amzn.to/2LgIsye)
Other useful gear…
Festool PDC 18/4 - amzn.to/2s3J0eq (US: amzn.to/2tWUHEL)
Festool CXS - amzn.to/2syMO8Z (US: amzn.to/2r0TZ7U)
Festool Kapex 120 - amzn.to/2oYOXeq (US: amzn.to/2o7D3zL)
Festool Granat abrasive - amzn.to/2A3c1vW (US: amzn.to/2gPAAUz)
Festool RTS 400 - amzn.to/2x6zGZW (US: amzn.to/2i84yXn)
Festool CTL SYS Bags - amzn.to/2G9eFVd (US: amzn.to/2GduBpo)
Trend Air Stealth Facemask - amzn.to/2zah0P6 (US: amzn.to/2T5ww6X)
Spax screws - amzn.to/2oYWydc (US: amzn.to/2oOjkDT)
Bahco 6” combi square - amzn.to/2oumhX4 (US: amzn.to/2ouSg9k)
Silicone brush set - amzn.to/2guo6Sm (US: amzn.to/2yEWbZI)
Silicone brush (single) - amzn.to/2l5rNTD (US: amzn.to/2zqFaQl)
Polyvine PolyTen PVA - amzn.to/2svT03N (US: amzn.to/2rmHYL3)
Mirock square - etsy.me/2MC0RT
Maxitek Storm D4 adhesive - bit.ly/StormD4PVA
![Shaker-style doors in MDF [video 405]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/jwGvYsvdCg4/mqdefault.jpg)
![Shaker-style doors in MDF [video 405]](/img/tr.png)
![Cabinet Door Sizing [*Ad] [video 549]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/tyeGTD9aF4E/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks very much for the helpful video Peter, I’ve learned a great deal, especially which paint/primer to use, my old wardrobe doors were previously vinyl wrapped but over time it has peeled away so I’ve removed it and will now give the doors a paint using your tips and method. Thanks again 👍🏻
Remember the old formaldehyde MDF? Hard as nails, superb finish! I remember it every time I put on my breathing mask and switch my respirator machine on to sleep every night. But it was good stuff, though.
@@kabirjeremias6434 Yeah, I care. And yes, I'd like to hack her account, too.
You seem to do everything with the minimum of movement. It is so enjoyable to watch a pro do something that many people (including me) think they can do. Thanks.
Thanks! There just isn’t that much space to live in, lol! 😂😂👍👍
Peter Millard Your professional skill is obvious in every video you do and it is a joy to watch. Cheers from Alberta, Canada.
David Clark Well, thanks for watching, and best wishes from London! 🙌👍👍
@@clarkd1955 Make that 2 of us from Alberta!
Thanks for these videos Peter! I just finished my first Millardian (MDF, dominos, tracksaw) piece of bespoke furniture. Your videos inspired the plunge. I added the last coat of paint (per your instructions) today to the wall mounted bookcase I've built. I can say things came out pretty square, strong and professional-looking in the finish. The success first try is pretty much all down to your clear, straightforward instruction in all these videos. Thank you and merry christmas!
Sounds like a great project! Thanks so much for letting me know! 🙌👍
New sub. You are amazing. You explain things in the simplest form for people like me (who dont catch on to easy on handy things) can understand. Best of all, I think you've just saved a marital argument about a kitchen rehab. We've been watching your videos today on how to make the doors, hinge, paint etc. and I think we are going to try it. Thanks so much!
Thank you so much! Really appreciate the feedback - let me know how you get on! 👍👍
Thank you Mr Millard, sir. I would say you have saved my bacon! Having cleared out an apartment I own and getting ready for sale of the property, I found that one of the kitchen cabinet doors had the vinyl high gloss shrink covering half ripped off. As the cabinets were installed almost 20yrs ago, they are now discontinued items. No doubt any purchaser will want to update the kitchen units but the state they are in currently will not be appealing - pure white high gloss doors, all but one, which is down to the raw MDF. I will try your technique and use spray lacquer to attain that high gloss finish, hopefully. Your video is so very instructive and helpful. Thank you so much for posting Peter. Best regards from Northern Ireland. 😀👍☘️
You are very good peter. Enjoy your videos very much. thank you.
Muy educativo y valioso tus videos, cada dia aprendo algo gracias a tus explicaciones ordenadas y objetivas. Gracias.-
Thank you!
I've painted lots of MDF, with lots of edges (I made all my house's millwork with MDF). Things I've found out: (1) use the highest quality MDF you can get hold of (2) use a SHARP blade when cutting & get the cleanest edge off the saw that you can (3) prime--preferably 2 or 3 coats w/ a quick-drying shellac-based primer--in the States, Zinsser BIN 123 is a great choice--it dries incredibly fast, seals well, and is compatible with any top coat (4) if you have a little inside lip like on these doors, a little painter's caulk quickly and properly applied will make it perfect (5) take your time painting, sand lightly between coats, and control dust. That's it. Painting MDF isn't magic by any means, but it is critical to seal with a good primer, IMO.
Darin - do you know if the Zinsser (which I have and agree - it's fab) will seal knots?
@@davidbuchan2224 I do not know. I haven’t tried it for that. I suspect that it will, but might need more than 1 coat. And certainly you might need filler also, depending on the knot. I would fill it if needed first, then use a couple coats of the Zinsser as a sealer. My gut tells me that should work.
@@davidbuchan2224 hi David the bin primer does seal knots
@@davewright9312 Thank you for taking the time to reply - yes, have painted some particularly knotty pine... no sign of them coming through - it's worth the money!
If you use a coat of sanding sealer, ether shellac or polyurethane based first it seals the MDF surface ready for painting and is really inexpensive. The paint then goes on smooth as glass especially when sprayed and doesn't soak into the MDF at all even the cheap none moisture resistant stuff.
It’s sometimes difficult to find the voice of reason, but Peter is just that. Many YT videos proclaim that a water-based paint should not be used on MDF, but they’re almost always referring to the edges of MDF. In my case, I was about to embark on painting 40 or so brand new Shaker-style cabinet doors consisting of maple rails and stiles with MDF panels, so I wasn’t faced with painting the edges. Peter’s video gave me the confidence to use a water-based primer, and it has worked out beautifully. I double checked with my local paint supply store, Sherwin-Williams, and the most knowledgeable person there also recommended a water-based primer. Their top coat recommendation was their Emerald product, which is also amazing.
My uncle's name was Peter Millard and my Mom's maiden name was Millard. Good content, thank you!
Spooky! Thanks!
I use a section of ply with 4 cut down pins to paint both sides of doors, and I find the mohair mini roll tubes are better than foam rollers
I have never been satisfied with a final coat done with a foam roller. Using a high-gloss latex enamel, treated with Floetrol or similar latex paint extender solution, I can use a fine brush and 1/4" nap microfiber roller. No foam roller "rash", just a beautiful, smooth finish, which doesn't look "raw", but has a very pleasing patina.
Cheers Peter
👍👍
Top tip - Put your paint tray into a bag then pour your paint in. Saves a lot of faff when cleaning up.
Or use a tray liner, designed for the job 👍👍
Good video thanks Peter
Cheers Michael! 👍
Great vid as usual peter.! - just a bit surprised that you haven’t came up with an ingenious quick clamp / spreader based semi circular jawed hinge pocket door hanging device and rack to make handling those wet doors a little easier… P.S. if you come up with one and make a fortune remember my intellectual royalties…😳😄💪🏻
Deal! 😂 And thanks Ian! 🙌👍
Excellent. Thanks
Thanks! 👍
I love Anderson Cooper and Richard Gere. Peter is both of them but with a British accent!
😂😂 Thanks - I think! I relayed that to Mrs 10 minutes, and she’s still,laughing about it... 😆👍👍
Very nice video.
My 2 cents: the difference between edgebanding and manual painting is visible - check 16:24. I am quite sure the edgebanding is on the panel on top.
You’re right - the edgebanding is on the top door - just not on the edges you can see. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Wow! I really thought the visible side of top door was edgebanding :))))
Later edit: and now I'm confused - I thought the 16:24 shot was to show edgebanding and edgepainting side by side...
TH-cam advised me to come here, I happily stayed. Nice voice, decent pace, good subject. Will this material and way of coating work for kitchen cabinets where heat and moisture is a big thing?
Thanks, and welcome. Yes, MRMDF is made for moist environments like kitchens and bathrooms. 👍👍
what I love about your content is that you get all this really good work done in such a small space. A lot of youtubers have these wonderful shops but you work in something a little bigger than a closet and you turn out such solid work! Thank you for this!
Haha - I’ll have you know British closets are way smaller than my workshop!😂😂 Thanks! Yeah, I’d love more space, but the location and price is hard to beat! 😆👍👍
Informative video Peter. Thanks. It’s just a pity that you didn’t show the whole drying times; it would have given me something to do instead of sitting here doing nothing!
😂👍👍
Brilliant video, thank you, i've subscibed.
Welcome!
MRMDF is definitely the way to go, edges on normal mdf just keep soaking up any paint applied to it... I I am using normal MDF; A generous under-coat of watered down PVA helps the paint form a nice finish!
👍
Nice vid Peter, (as always) I love your easy to follow style with none of the gimmicky, daft editing that other makers seem to use. Do you have any tips on painting hollow core panel doors, as I’ve just fitted a few in my house and I’m struggling..😩 Thanks..
Thanks! You mean like a hollow-core flush door - a entranceway door, not a cabinet door, yes? Yeah, a large flat area is always tricky. I had good results with a 6” mini-roller, either HD foam, or a short-pile ‘gloss’ type roller. Best results were sprayed, but, you know - cost, mess & cleanup. 🤷♂️ HTH👍👍
hi :) , what is the benefit/necessity of a 2nd coat of primer? Thanks.
Denser undercoat, means fewer topcoats required.
Hi, Peter. I was enthusiastic about taking off our chipping and peeling MDF from our kitchen cabinets and drawers....HOWEVER.
I have taken the vinyl wrap from one panel and discovered that it's coated in a dark orange residue. When you try to sand it, it gums up.
I've spent days trying to take the glue from one panel!!!
Do you have any ideas?
Stumped. 🥺
Hi Peter, what are your comments wrt water based acrylic paint (ex. : Leyland) vs. water based w/ clay mineral paint (ex. : Farrow & Ball) ? Thx. for your excellent work for both video editing and workshop abilities.
Thanks! F&B paints tend to work well provided you use their own primers and undercoats, but don’t play well with other brands esp wrt drying times. Regular water-based acrylics are much more flexible (insert your own joke) in that respect. But provided you stay within the ‘system’ I’ve never had a problem with F&B paints. 👍👍
Is there any way to get around 3 coats of paint? That would make my old mdf cabinets too heavy.
Hi peter , have you not tried rustins m d f primer for your sealer coat ? It’s very quick drying
Hi Terry and thanks. Yes I have, and honestly found it was just another ‘magic potion’ to have to stock. If it works for you then that’s great, but it didn’t do anything for me I’m afraid. 🤷♂️👍👍
I use the Leyland acrylic primer. Good value. The Rustin's is also good, I think all the Rustin's paints are great. Their primer/undercoat is higher build than the Leyland. Which is handy if you need that..
Very helpful thanks but it looks really time consuming,which method do you think is best.....spray or roller?
No, it’s really quick when you get into the swing of it - but spraying gives a better finish, no question. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you,keep up the good work👍
Is acrylic water-base primer same as undercoat? this the only option I found around me!
It’s a primer/undercoat that I use. Primer and undercoat do perform different functions, but I’m not a painter so the subtleties are a little lost on me. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks a lot, I will give it a try and let you know how it goes!
Peter, I have just found your content: before starting on my first ever MDF painting project.
Sadly, not before buying stuff recommended by other TH-camrs. I’d be grateful for your views on what I’ve bought. First, the primer is the Zinsser BIN shellac. The topcoat (bought to match the bedroom wall colour) is the Farrow & Ball Estate Eggshell, water-based, 20% sheen.
I’m a complete novice and was a bit confused by the “when and how much” of sanding. In between the two coats of primer, as well as the de-nibbing element, how much sanding did you do to the primer coat? I found it difficult to assess because of the whiteness of the primer and the bright lighting generally. With regard to the topcoat, did you sand in between coats? If not, would you mind explaining why not, please? If you did, then firstly, let me apologise for being Mrs. Magoo and missing it, and second, ask how much sanding should I be aiming for, and do I sand between coats one AND two, or just after the first topcoat?
Sorry to bombard you, but you are dealing with an idiot here!
Many thanks.
Denise
Hi Denise, and welcome! Zinsser BIN Shellac is an excellent primer/sealer/undercoat. A bit OTT for just painting MDF in my opinion, but an excellent product. Be aware you’ll need to clean brushes and rollers in methylated spirit, or treat them as disposable. I’ve never had a major issue with Farrow & Ball eggshell - though I prefer the exterior eggshell as it’s easier to work with - but in my experience F&B paints really need F&B primer/undercoat, otherwise it can take a long time to dry, and at worst can stay ‘sticky’. For de-nibbling between coats of paint, then it’s a very light sanding just to take out any imperfections. I denib between primer/undercoat, and topcoats, except for the final topcoat. Hope that helps! Peter
What Grit sand paper did you use between coats of paint
Usually a well-worn P120, or a fresher P150/180, around there. 👍
I saw another video on youtube, where it was advised to add the paint by brush and then just smooth out by roller in order to get a smoother finish. What is your opinion on this please?
Madness. But feel free to try it and make your own mind up on it. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks !
Great video peter as always out of interest what’s your favourite roller “ two fussy blokes or the toolstation rota? I use both think the toolstation edges it for me , be interested what you think is the best finish out of the two with water based paint , keep well regards Gary
Hey Gary. Hmm tough one actually. I think I get a marginally better finish with the TFB ‘smooth’ but they’re harder to get, so I often just revert to the Rota rollers. Between ourselves, I quite like the slight ‘roller rash’ you get from a foam roller as it helps hide any surface defects! 😆👍👍
What grit sandpaper do you use to sand between the primer and paint coats? If you put on 2 coats of paint, do you sand in between?
I'm also curious if you use the foam roller instead of a "standard" fabric type roller for a reason.
Usually P120 - P180 to sand between coats of paint - called ‘de-nibbling’ and yes, you de-nib between every coat. I use high density foam rollers because they give a better finish, thought the ‘two fussy blokes’ short pile mini roller works well, just harder to get hold of. 🤷♂️👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thank you :) I really appreciate the help.
Peter - what grit do you use for sandpaper for de-nibbing?
Typically a well-used P120, or a fresh P150/180, around there. You're just trying to take off the slight lumps & bumps in the finish, nothing more. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks Peter - appreciate that 👍
Peter i own a Macallister MSPS1200 plunge saw which comes with a couple if tracks. What it doesn't come with is clamps of any sort. I've searched over and over but cant find clamps for it. I know that some manufacturers clamps fit various saws but was wondering if you could tell me which, if any clamps fit my saw? I'd also like to know where I get replacement bushes for it. Screwfix and B n Q are the outlets but neither can give me any info.
Hi Mike. I’m afraid I have no experience of the MacAllister saw, but I believe it has the same style of rails as the Makita/Titan/Erbauer so almost any available clamps *should* fit. If it helps there’s a profile section of the standard Festool rail here - bit.ly/FestoolRail - should be seen in conjunction with the ‘which rails work’ video #403 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop many thanks Peter. Your videos are great. Keep up the good work.
Do u have any videos on removing the pvc coverings on cupboard doors in order to paint
No, sorry - not something I’ve ever done. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hot air gun will do the trick
What grit when you de-nib?
P180 or so.
Painting edges of MDF is a pain! If you want to paint with a glossy paint i.E. white), the edge guzzles the paint. A warm tip is this video: th-cam.com/video/11ZpOb1hnCQ/w-d-xo.html He uses and compares 4 methodes. Glue mixed with water, a product called (in German) "Dichter Keller" (word-by-word translated: "dense basement" or deep ground), mixed with glue and pure deep ground. The result of ddep ground with glue is astonishing! Perfect edges.
I would definitely not use a water based primer on mdf,over time it will absorb the water and expand,oil based primer all day everyday folks!
Watch the video again. Listen to what I say. MR MDF. Moisture Resistant. Different animal altogether from regular MDF.
@@10MinuteWorkshop Haha you got me there!
Where do you buy you dabble sided tape for
Amazon. Double-sided tape - amzn.to/2QqxiqB (US: amzn.to/2Iy6C4x) 👍👍
More top tips...thanks .....but at 2m55s missed a bit!
LOL! spot on!
I caught it next time around. 👌👍
Don't you just hate that expression LOL!
@@10MinuteWorkshop wouldn't expect anything else
Be careful where you buy your paint from. I bought two seemingly identical tins of a well known trade paint, one from screwfix and another from a well-known DIY store, same paint, same tin totally different quality and the poor quality tin was 50% more expensive. Please can you do a video on this subject.
Thanks Peter.
Des from North Yorkshire
I only buy from local decorators' merchants, so not something I've come across, I must say. Have you contacted the manufacturer of the paint? There's usually a customer helpline number printed on the tin somewhere. 👍
Thanks for your speedy response Peter, I am in the middle of the job at this time. I usually follow my own advice which is the same as yours but can't believe that they can get away with this con. I will contact the manufacturer tomorrow.
Thanks for your inspiring videos, I just built a new kitchen on the strength of them.
My advice for painting mdf doors is to build a good relationship with a professional painter and pay them to do it!
Agree, but also look into good paint if doing it yourself.
Paint and primers with hardners make a huge difference to work with, drying time is also incredible. Pre catalysed stuff is dry to touch in 10 and you can sand in about 30min
Matthew Smith noooo we dont want any part of your mdf
@@olegserstjuk2232 Shellac based primer is my only go-to on MDF anymore. It dries ridiculously fast, doesn't raise the grain of the edges, and leaves a smooth bulletproof finish.
@@acerjuglans383 do you have any experience with epoxy paint/primers undercoats like the one by Stone Coat Countertops company?
Professional painter are a joke when it comes to painting cabinet doors. Water based paints suck. Solvent based are MUCH better. Having a professionally refinisher is going to give you much better results
Was like watching 'Bob Ross' (without the hair) Happy little shaker doors... ;)
😂👍👍
I was thinking the same :D
@@10MinuteWorkshop "Big 'ole" spoke here...
It might be too late but you missed a spot on inside edge of the first door
Yep, way too late.👍
My own favourite painting tip is MAKE SURE YOU HAVE EXCELLENT LIGHTING. If you see a missed bit, you can't fix it.
I frequently go back and watch your videos again when I need advice Peter and you've never let me down! Brilliant advice AND instruction. Thanks very much indeed! 👍
Personally I use either a polyurethane or shellac based sanding sealer before paint. It seals the MDF beautifully without causing any rough surface, then the paint goes on smooth as glass especially when sprayed. Reduces sanding and provides a far superior finish, even on cheap MFD.
Everyone needs to know that shellac based primer on MDF is the only way to go!
Paul I’m a bit confused. Is sanding sealer same thing as a primer or different? Is it white or transparent? What does the “sanding” part mean…that it needs to be sanded after? Why is this much better than the white primer in the video? What does this allow you to do that normal primer doesn’t?
Industry secret for you, use button polish. It’s much much cheaper than anything labbled MDF sealer. Shellac based. Dries incredibly fast. Nearly instantly. seals and takes less coats to get the same finish.
We have a Shaker community within an hour drive where I live. Not many of them left, most are quite elderly.
Hi peter, A tecnique i use is to clamp a few doors or panels together,where possible,then sand with festool 150 and give all edges two coats of primer and allow to dry.then you can work on fronts and backs easier.just my way ,but it does work.great video as usual.cheers.
That's actually a great tip.
Super video Peter - thank you! I've done tons of cabinets now and keep checking the changes in process online, was using Zinsser shellac primer but now only on small jobs as the cost is prohibitive also clean up would be different to top coats. I think the key is sanding sanding sanding, really as long using a good acrylic eggshell its going to be good. I do much prefer the edge banding now just don't have to sand and round-over as much on the edges. Love your channel!
Peter try 1 primer, 1 undercoat and 1 top coat using a decent paint like Sikkens, also try laying off with a dry roller for a more even texture, buying cheap paint is a false economy as you put extra coats on, also having the extra layers will make it more prone to chipping, I prefer the pure bristle sash brush over the synthetic one, but I use the same sponge rollers though.. good job
This guy is a natural at these videos. Warm, friendly, professional, sage. Good hosting.
Thank you! 👍
He's a natural broadcaster!
Great video! And loved your work in Legends of Tomorrow!
OK, I had to look that one up, but you're right - me and Wentworth Miller, like brothers from another mother... 😂 And thanks! 👍
Some great tips there, I particularly like that little sanding block. Cheers.
Thanks! 👍👍
This is very clear and informative thank you! I’m about to embark on a diy job on my mdf cabinet doors - they’re plain, with bevelled edge. I’ve peeled off the gloss plastic coating and the mdf underneath looks like it’s been sealed (slight sheen.. maybe that’s the adhesive?). No idea whether it’s MR MDF ☹️ So I think I’ll use the Zinsser shellac primer (brush/roller) so many people recommend. I’m using a water-based eggshell for top coats (Little Greene intelligent eggshell). My neighbour is going to help and says spraying will produce a better finish. Having seen you roll and brush your doors I’m wondering whether my neighbour is right..?? Spraying looks incredibly messy and I’m guessing uses more paint.
A couple of questions: should I fill handle holes with wood filler before priming? And what grade(s) sandpaper is best for sanding between coats?
Thank you 😊
I was going to attempt the risky task of routing a pattern into my old, plain, flat laminated MDF cabinets and was dreading the inevitable chip-out and then you introduced me to 'faker shakers'! My whole project changed completely! This is a fantastic remedy that I can do with my table saw and some glue and clamps. I came to get painting tips and left with an entirely new concept. Many thanks!
Yep this opened my eyes to other ways it can be done
I use 1 coat MDF primer (to stop MDf bleeding through) & 2-3 coats top coats finish of choice. Edge banded all round. Bigger doors need painting all in one go else they curl !
I sure do wish I'd watched this a couple of days ago. These techniques are spot on.
Thanks! 👍👍
I stand in admiration and indeed awe of the tool-lean approach you take to painting.
I feel a disclaimer is needed for this video. Many people will think painting will go this perfectly and mess-free. In reality, the doors will be dropped as they are moved about, the paint will run copiously into the hinge pockets and then like a river across the door, etc. You made it look superhuman Peter. lol
Yeah, Peter Perfect, that’s me! 😂😂 I think I did mention the dropped door, but sure - everyone has to learn the hard way, I just aim to make it a little easier, is all. 👍👍
Another excellent presentation. I enjoy your methodical approach to your work. You are technical without being boring, taxing or pretentious and I appreciate that very much. Thanks for another quality video.
Thank you! 🙌👍
I I just kinda burn the with 400 sand paper with the mirka orbital and the center of door since I use laquer paint and it kinda suck it in if not sanded
Try drywall mud on edges for painted panels in MDF. Works like a charm. Old timer taught me.
👍
Hi Peter, great video as always. Would the same method apply when painting the body of the wardrobes/cabinets?
Would you recommend a clear layer of perhaps a polyurethane coat on any surface that will have something resting on it? Clothes or ornaments etc? I've ended up with a slight tacky result when using a quickdrying satinwood. This time I've gone for a bathroom emulsion and hoping it'll be a better finish.
Cheers
Hi and thanks! Yes, absolutely - I've used this identical method with every cabinet carcass I've painted, wether they were wardrobes, chests of drawers, whatever. The only time I've ever had a slightly soft finish like you describe is with a farrow &n ball paint where their primer wasn't used; if you regularly get a finish like that then I'd look at sorting that out rather than applying a clear coat. 👍
I recently found myself making a lot of painted MRMDF stuff. One thing that used to kill my production time was once I paint, I can't carry on cutting due to the dust despite my dust extraction working its best. Lucky for me I had the space to set up a permanent spray booth. Good video Peter even if its the way I do it myself👍
Thanks! Yes, having a small workspace where you have to paint & work is a real production killer. 🤷♂️👍
Well Peter that video had me on the edge of my seat ,i always find spraying leaves a nicer finish and the drying time is cut in half ,but the mess and the cleaning of the spray guns or the grayco max is a lot of work
Thanks Syd. Yes, as I say, brush & roller is a very ‘contained’ way of painting, and I’ve had a few clients say that the sprayed finish looked too ‘manufactured’ they want a hand-made piece to have brushstrokes! 😂🤷♂️👍
Love the videos Peter! They are so informative and great to watch. Hope your well 👍🏼
Thanks Simon, glad you like them! And yes, all well, thanks! 👍
Thanks Peter for a very complete video, and for taking the time to assemble the matching shopping list! I see painting as a necessary evil as I've yet to find a satisfying solution for MR MDF doors, so your tips are much appreciated and will be put to the test!
Thanks! 👍👍
Thanks for the top tip about corner protectors, Peter. I kept about 50 metres of them as I knew they’d come in useful....only having not thought of anything useful in the 4 months I’ve had them I threw them away (recycling, of course) last week. Only have 7 shaker doors to paint next week. Typical!! 🤣🙄. Noted for the future though.
Always the way Ian, always the way... 🤷♂️😂👍👍
Apologies and you made this a few years ago but what grit sand paper did you use between coats ? Thanks, love the videos
P120 to denim between coats, P180 prior to the final coat, usually. 👍
I am wood working and one thing I dread is painting and staining. Don't have the patience for it.. LOL Nice work
I just like to get it out of the way as fast as I can! 👍
Hi acrylic paint dose it come in other colours I would like to do my mdf kitchen door they have never been painted all info welcome thanks
Yes it does. 👍
I'm really curious when it comes to painting MDF, with regards to the edges, that the primer you're using seals the cut ends sufficiently because I was always under the impression that you had to use a specialised MDF primer! That was thanks to someone I used to work with a long time ago who was a retired painter & decorator. I'm seriously going to have to take a better look at this stuff now as I've always been put off using MDF for this reason.
I'm also interested to know what vacuum cleaner setup you have as it sounds like you're using a standard vacuum cleaner.
Lastly, those cardboard corners - I work at IKEA and we recycle more than enough of those every day.
The MDF we have now is much better generally than what was available even 10 years ago, and as I think I say in this video, use decent, branded eg Medite, MR MDF as the starting point and you won’t need any special primers or sealers. For the vac setup, the main one’s a Festool CTL 22, with others around for specific tasks eg the mitre saw. There’s an old workshop tour video here - th-cam.com/video/Ce_gMwIQQsk/w-d-xo.html - need updating, but that’s the general setup. 👍👍
Bravo complimenti bel video un saluto dal nuovo canale fai da te Impariamo e ripariamo!!!
Anyone know what the US equivalent of Medite MRMDF would be?
You can get MR MDF in the US I’m told, but you have to search it out. 👍
Very interested to see the lack of difference between edgebanded and non. I definitely find that a good quality MR MDF doesn’t need edgebanding.
Re drying times, do you stick to manufacturers guide or just repaint when dry to the touch? Something I’m never sure about!
Depends on the schedule! Where I can I leave it overnight, but I’ve found around ~4 hrs between redcoats is often enough. 👍👍
jesus 2 coats of primer and 3 of emulsion....... ?? most expensive doors ever made
2 coats of primer in the cut edges, and 3 coats of eggshell, yes. No Idea bout the most expensive, but I’ve never claimed to be cheap. 🤷♂️
Great video. For a better smoother finish using brush and rollers and without spray paint, I recommend adding Floetrol to the finishing paint before use. Also BIN primer sealer (shellac based) would give much better results than other primers.
Thanks. As I think I say in the vid, using a decent quality MR MDF makes a huge difference, and while I'm a big fan of BIN, I can typically use regular primer/undercoat with MR without any issues. 👍
Ditto on both 👍Fletrol will lay as flat as a spray once you get used to the best mix ratio with your paint of choice.
Are you not supposed to use shellac, to seal it first, sand, then prime, then paint? Due to the composition of the wood?
No, MRMDF doesn't need any sealers.
Can I ask about your drying rack. Does it leave a mark in the wet paint on the door? Thanks
No.
So faster as it saves drying time ? U left 1 edge waited for it to dry then done that edge ???? Don’t understand why not do 1 side let dry then other side u done it in 2 stages anyway ?
Because it’s easier to handle with one wet edge than one wet side, and a wet edge dries faster than a face. 👍
peter, i know the shop is small ,however, does it have en suite facilities? you do so much more with so much less that it is a treat to watch your videos thanx rick
No, no water or waste unfortunately. Communal facilities in the main building. 👍
You can get wire loops that clip into the 35mm hinge holes, and make it easier to handle and hang the doors up to dry. Good for spraying too.
I can't remember where I saw them ( might be Rutlands) but the innovative amongst us could probably make some from wire coathangers.
Thanks, yes, I’ve seen some on TH-cam, neat idea if you have a lot to do. 👍👍
Hi Peter, thank you for your informative videos. Could I please pick your brains, and Apologies for my ignorance! I rarely work with MDF but I’m about to make a wardrobe for my granddaughter, I understand that MR MDF needs to be sealed prior to a top coat (probably use Zinzer) and I was wondering if I could seal the MDF parts prior to assembly using dominoes, it would just make life easier using a roller and brush, just wondered if the glue would adhere to the sealer/undercoat.
Appreciate any advice Peter
95% of everything I’ve ever made was from MRMDF and I’ve never once used a sealer. For non MR then maybe, if you’re not sure of the provenance, but any decent branded MRMDF just needs a primer undercoat then the topcoats of your choice. I go through the process most recently in the Painting MDF Doors video. 👍
Many thanks Peter. This will be my first wardrobe build in MDF and you videos have been invaluable, thank you.@@10MinuteWorkshop
Hi there late comment but do you have a brand of paintable edge band? Thanks
I just use whatever I can get on Amazon - links in the description. 👍
Great video as normal Peter, Couple of things to mention on painting MDF (and other materials) to others less skilled than you.
1. "Knock of the arris" as my dad always used to say. Paint can't and won't physically stick to a sharp corner. It is therefor important to sand all sharp edges. Only needs a tiny flick over when doing your de-nibbing but makes a massive difference.
2. Fat edges. Most common mistake by novice painters is leaving fat edges (excessive amounts of paint) on the adjacent face. You were clearly knocking your fat edges off with the roller but didn't mention this technique. It's a simple thing but often overlooked. Pain to remove once dry as when sanding them you end up going back to bare wood.
3. First coat layoff. When you put that first primer coat on always be mindful of not leaving big splodges anywhere, even if you will be going over that area again in 30 seconds. MDF sucks that first coat straight in and if it's to thick in areas it can be a pain to sand out later. You do have a little more 'work time' as the coats progress but just be mindful.
4. Water/shellac/oil. This is aimed more at high end finishes but the water based paints can cause other issues. Sometimes something a little more robust is needed, a shellac based primer is a good alternative. Quick drying but a little more hard wearing and seals the fibres a little better.
5. Last one again is difficult to control but drying area is important. Although the water based paints are quick drying there is nothing worse than taking your time building up layers of paint and sanding between all coats to have the final coat ruined by some dust or other debris blowing all over your wet paint. Try keep the airflow controlled and free from crap, clean your work area before painting and be mindful of other jobs whilst things are drying nearby.
We spray when we can but still do loads of hand painting where the sprayer isn t a viable option.
Good luck.
Hope that
Great info, thanks John! 👍
John - Thank you for the detailed explanations. They are very helpful. Appreciate you taking the time to write them. I read every word!
Great info thanks John - can ask about the corners again? I am going to get some mdf slab kitchen doors made, not shaker just plain. Should I ask the guy who cuts them to round all the edges slightly? Or just do it by hand? Thank you!
@@lizziebarker8399
Hi Lizzie,
No need to ask, its something you can do yourself. I presume you're getting plain MDF slab? Are you painting them yourself? 18mm? Best to get them all primed then when you sand just gently go over the edges with something like 120g or 150g just to knock the sharpness off.
@@JohnSmith-qv3db thanks John! I was thinking 22mm MDF and yes I’m going to start with a small kitchen island and see if I can paint it myself, then do the rest of the doors if I get a good enough result!
Hello, I bought and used the high density foam rollers you recommended. Regardless of the type of paint I used, these rollers left a pattern of mini-dimple marks everywhere. This occurred with soft maple, MDF, and Baltic birch. Had to sand them down and start over. Thoroughly unimpressed.
They’ve always worked extremely well for me, most recently in the home office remodel. If you want the smoothest possible roller finish then the ‘two fussy blokes’ shirt like are really nice, but harder to get hold of. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop How thoroughly did you load the foam rollers with paint? Just curious. Perhaps mine was not saturated with enough paint hence the mini-dimples.
Spray a good sanding sealer over the MDF first it’s clear acts as a wood sealer so you don’t have to use so many coats MOHAWK makes good finishes don’t know if it’s available in your neck of the woods because I’m from across the pond
Where do you get your Stanley trimming knife for edging tape thanks
Amazing - link’s in the description. 👍 Stanley edgeband trimmer:- amzn.to/3fNPUgP
Curious why you chose not to use your sprayer on these doors. Was it instructional only, or is there a practical reason?
I stopped spraying when the Graco broke for the third time, well before this 4 years old vid. Also it’s a basic instructional video about how to get a good finish with simple, accessible tools eg brush & roller, not an £XXX sprayer. 👍
I have Melamine type coated kitchen cupboards, unfortunately it is beginning to break off through age, l have sixteen doors plus 8 drawers, l wonder if the MDF underneath would be okay to paint if l gain the confidence to heat peel it off, then there’s the base of the cupboard, ld love to do it. Any suggestions to help out on peeling and repainting.
I’d be amazed if you could peel off the laminate cleanly, and hate to think how much prep work you’d need to do on the underlying board rah! And usually, it’s chipboard, not MDF, that’s underneath most kitchen cabinet melamine. 🤔🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop it does look like mdf doors however, l think l will do something else like replace the doors. Thank you.
oil based undercoat is best for mdf
I'm actually surprised by how much knowledge is involved in a "simple" door painting 🤔
👍👍
Hmmm... Why don't you wrap a plasticbag over the tray you pour the paint in?
When finished painting, you just pull the bag of, and what ever paint is left, you have in the bag, and there will be no water wasted cleaning the tray. And if there is a lot of paint left in the bag, you can easily putt it bag in the paint container.
I've always found plastic bags stick to the roller, so I use a dedicated tray liner.👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop You have to adjust the bag, and it can't be too big or small. Freezing bags are great for that.