How to Paint MDF - Video #1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 มี.ค. 2017
- A complete walk through of all the steps you need to take in order to obtain a really good paint finish on MDF.
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There are two ways you can paint MDF:
OPTION 1 - the complete process
- Apply an MDF Primer
- Sand lightly
- Vacuum the dust up and wipe down with a rag dipped in white spirit, to degrease the surface
- Apply a very thin layer of wood filler to the edges, and sand down
- Apply an Undercoat
- Appy a Top Coat
Whilst the best approach to ensure a really decent finish, this is going to take a very long time - something most of us don't have, so I have always taken a slightly simpler approach to painting MDF:
OPTION 2 - the way I PAINT MDF!
- Apply a quick dry wood primer undercoat
- Sand the edges to smooth out the end grain
- Apply a second coat to the edges (not essential)
- Apply two coats of Satin/ Gloss, again, lightly sanding the edges between each coat
For a great resource on painting MDF, and more generally, take a look at DIY Doctor www.diydoctor.org.uk/projects/...
In Today's Toolkit:
- Sand paper (120 grade or finer) and sanding/ wood block
- Face mask I use this one goo.gl/UwdfHD £12.99/ $16.14 although there are cheaper ones on the market
- If you are going to use an MDF primer you should find these in all major hardware / DIY stores. Examples include goo.gl/N0BBvn from Screwfix (£10.80/ $13.48 per litre)
goo.gl/Wf4OkP Amazon (£14.50/ $18.10 for 750ml)
- Quick dry primer undercoat - there are so many different brands on the market. They all do a similar job, although I usually use Johnstone's Joncryl Acrylic Primer Undercoat. In today's video I use ARMSTEAD Wood Primer Undercoat goo.gl/XqtrM1 (£10.28/£12.83 per litre)
- Mini roller with mohair roller sleeve (you can use a larger roller if you're painting larger areas
- Paint brush for painting in hard to reach areas, and the edges
- Johnstone's water based Satin top coat - purchased from my local Johnstone's Decorators Centre
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![Painting MDF Doors [video 407]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ZIwNJGlVtwc/mqdefault.jpg)
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Good clear illustrated video....focused on what one needs to see with perfect talk over. One of the best . Thank you for sharing!!
Thanks Allan - really appreciate that!
Good tip with the respirator. I became allergic to woodwork dust, especially MDF after years of woodworking as a hobby.
fantastic video mate. many thanks. i'm also keen on water based paint. makes washing up much easier!
I enjoyed your video. It was very helpful. Very much appreciated! Thank you!
Wish I'd watched this before doing a job I've just finished in my kitchen sorting some boxing in that had been done badly with MDF. I didn't realise I could have used a roller, I did it all with a brush! Good tip for next time though, I'm going through lots of your videos & getting some good tips, keep them coming, many thanks!
I did not use an MDF primer but did need 2 coats of undercoat and 2 coats of satin (both water based). Turned out really well. Thanks for the video which was really helpful.
You're welcome. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you , video was helpful . I would only hide screws and 2 boards joint before painting . U can easily do it with wood plaster or pva glue plus mdf dust after sanding . And for front doors edges I personally need a better quality like on the top .
Good job. Thank you for sharing with us.
+Blifaman Smith You're welcome - thanks for the comment.
I've used Albany trade acrylic primer undercoat X 2 coats. 240 grit sand between coats, 2 top coats of 161* french grey pale intelligent eggshell by little greene. Looks a treat
After a good acrylic primer if going white I use dulux trade vinyl Matt let cure then finish sand back then hit with oil based speeds things up a bit 👍🏼
You are right about not using an MDF primer. I have painted a lot of MDF with a high quality fast drying wood primer. Never had any blistering or swelling on the edges. I apply at least two coats of primer, sand, then third coat of primer. Sand. Then top coat, usually two. I even have done a high gloss piano finish on MDF, looks stunning.
For gloss enamel on mdf sheet,which roller is best for smooth even finish?
Kudos on hammering in the safety aspect. A lot of TH-camrs these days are like, mehh, it's just one drop of dimethyl-mercury, what could it possibly do ?
Top tip, some automotive body putty works wonders on that endgrain
Just a tip. Working on the top of a computer desk which got a little water damage which went through the laiminate. Wood stain seemed to work very well to stabilize the bare areas of the MDF and make them less able to absorb moisture, I imagine certain wood treatment products would work just as weil but stain costs about the same and everyone knows what it is.
Makes a good base to put primer on. It really doesn't have that much color anyway.
These vids are so good. Loads of work gone in to editing well done.
In your opinion what's the best type of roller to paint satin paint on front door.
Iv got a foam roller so would this do a good job if I sand in between coats
I'm getting ready to paint some cabinets and was getting a bit baffled by all the conflicting advice out there about various products to use. This is super-clear, I can go paint shopping with confidence now - thank you!
Thanks Megan, and good luck with the painting 👍🏻
Thanks, i wish i had thought to look at this before i made my first attempt at painting MDF.(disaster!!!) But will get it right now.
Very helpful many thanks!
Very nice job.
Hi Charlie, love the videos and think its great you touched on the point about a mask when working with MDF. Think its important to highlight that for MDF you require a P3 mask, not a P2 as you've linked. If you're cutting it with power tools, then a mask able to filter out the formaldehyde given off due to the heat is best
Great video's ...thanks so much for posting !
You're very welcome. Take a look at this one as well th-cam.com/video/2YOASvodntU/w-d-xo.html The Zinsser BIN is my new go to primer for MDF.
Great video thanks for showing us the steps involved 👍
Well done. Thank you.
Great video, I bought 3 MDF boards 49 X 97 3/4" Carb 2 compliant to make a home studio booth. I know it's not the most professional way to go about it but I do have my 5month old daughter living in my apartment and I want to make sure this is safe to keep in my home the way it is or if I have to paint it in order to stop harmful chemicals from emitting? I would so much appreciate it because I just bought this wood and have very little knowledge about it until I started reading on it because of the way the wood would smear dust on clothes ect and I found it a little strange. Would very much appreciate any insight on this, have a blessed day sir.
really helpful. thank you
love your videos. usefull for me so much. greetings from Ireland
Thanks so much Andrzej. Good to hear from you. Have you used Zinsser BIN primer. I use it pretty much for everything these days.
What do you think of those mohair rollers? Usually I use sponge foam but frustrating getting air bubbles and tram lines. Got a link to the short pile ones?
I miss the final result in your video.......the rough edges looking nice and smooth ;)
Good advice, thank you .
Brilliant, thank you Charlie. 👍🏼😊
You're very welcome Suzi, thanks so much for the comment👍. Since doing this vid I've rather fallen in love with Zinsser BIN for priming pretty much everything, so if you have time, take a look th-cam.com/video/2YOASvodntU/w-d-xo.html
Thankyou Charlie your video was very useful.
Thank you Mary. The other primer you can try is Zinsser BIN. I use that a lot these days, in fact for most priming jobs, although being shellac based you can't wait the brushes in water.
For the porous edges of MDF I always prime with some slightly watered down PVA wood glue. Once dry, sand smooth then apply acrylic primer undercoat. Always gets a great finish.
You shpuld maybe try sawdust and diluted woodglue. Then after it's dry, you can sand it down.
I'm curious why you would use watered down PVA glue instead of just using a water based PVA primer, aka drywall primer? Is there an advantage of one versus the other?
@@landhater PVA would slightly seal the edge more as it is waterproof as you would treat old plaster to re-skim ! IMHO
@@landhater surely they are the same thing.
Yet down pre mixed filler and rub it in and clean off with a damp rag, then light sand then PVA once it's dry then undercoat
Great job great video. I've just started building with MDF. It's daft the amount of dust I've breathed in before I realised it was bad for you. Think I'll get myself a mask for my next project. Thanks for the video.
You're very welcome, and get yourself some Zinsser BIN th-cam.com/video/2YOASvodntU/w-d-xo.html. As I discovered recently, it's the BEST way to prime MDF.
I've actually bought some and I'm watching your video comparing it to Johnstone's MDF primer. However I bought it to cover my varnished staircase which I don't fancy sanding right back.
How long do you leave the primer before painting the top coat on? Mines quick drying so would a few hours be ok as I noticed you waited 24hrs
great video i wonder if you can help i have standard cheap white chipboard kitched doors drawers i hate them how can i paint them just white but with a high gloss finish thanks .
Hi , please can you help , which paint to use on melamine , how to prepare and which mini roller
I found your video very helpful a big thank you
i want to know which color u apply and is can i use wall color or mdf cabinets or not
Thank you for that great 👍
Good job👍
Can i do this technique on melamine; If so, if i use wood graining do think it will work; Thank you
I coat the edges with shellac, then 4 coats of melamine primer 2 coats per side of panel sanding edges with 240 grit in between each coat, then A/C paint/lacquer top coat. Perfect finish every time.
I agree about not using MDF primer, and acrylic primer is a good option..but I like to use oil based undercoat thinned by about 20% as I find oil based doesn't swell the grain as much as water based...theres not a lot in it but I have found it gives a slightly smoother finish which doesn't require as much abrading.
I use Kilz oil straight, sand in between 1st/2nd coat. then apply 1-2 coats of finish coat. Sand in between if applying 2nd coat. I learned this the hard way when I bought 'white wood' chinese finished plywood from local DIY store. the latex paint [water] bubbled off the laminate in several locations. Kilz oil didn't effect it on other projects.
SpockMcoy Issmart Thanks for the tip. I want make some plinths for my bathroom and use MDF ...and need it to not pick up and water and swell up.
SpockMcoy Issmart cool screen name btw
Brilliant video. Apologies if you’ve covered this before, but I’ve got an MDF wardrobe with a lacquered finish. Do I go straight in with a BIN primer please?
Thanks Karen. I lacquered our kitchen table and ended up having to strip it off before repainting. You might get away with priming it with BIN as it's so good at adhering to tricky surfaces bit at the very least you'll need to give it a good rub down with 180 or 240 grit sand paper to provide a key for the paint. I live Zinsser BIN though. It's pretty much the only primer I use these days.
Hi, Can i use this method on MDF spiral staircase?
I'm very new to DIY. I have removed the old carpet and the nasty felt backing! I've sanded it many many times and its now looking half decent.
I originally wanted to stain, however been advised staining MDF is awful. So painting is my next option.
Can you tell me what paint to use and the steps on a very basic design staircase. It's literally 1 step, gap next step. There are no edge peices of mdf or wood etc...
More than happy to send you a pic if i haven't explained this well.
Thanks!
#liked #subscribed 👌
Careful not to sand too much in between coats. Your first coat will raise the grain of those fibers in the MDF. So your natural inclination is to sand those completely smooth. If you do that, the grain will raise again after the application of your second coat of sealer or paint.
I didn’t use primer on my new wardrobe MDF- what should I do? I did one layer
Great video, can you advise if I can use the same approach to paint very thin (cardboard style) MDF shelves used on garage shelving?
I'd say so, but check out Zinsser BIN. Might be your best option here th-cam.com/video/2YOASvodntU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video.
I'm new to this so forgive my questions if you've already covered it. But when painting MDF,
I can use a quick dry water based primer?
Have you tried it? what was the result?
Se você lixar as bordas do MDF com lixa 120/220 e 320 antes de aplicar o primer, o resultado é melhor e mais rápido
You can use any primer, however if you start with an oil based primer you should continue with oil based paint. If you start with water based you can continue with whatever you want. Oil based primer will swell fibers slightly less than water based.
Hi Charlie, great video. We’ve had shelves made and installed using MDF. The carpenter has already sanded them down, so do I just need to apply the primer then the top coat?
Thanks Chris. If you haven't already bought the paint, I'm a big fan of Zinsser BIN primer these days. 👍
I just edge with iron on wood edging. Far faster and a better job when painting.
The problem with MDF is that if you use acrylic paint then the fibres will stand up and take more time to get a good finish as it's water based. As a joiner I would always recommend a sealer coat first if using water based paint but if hand painting you can't beat oil based for a better finish. Even the grain on the face lifts up using water based and it's hard not to lose that. I would also recommend if building joinery with MDF, Always pay the extra and buy a quality board, either Medite or use MR MDF, you will get a much better finish
Thank you! I have bare mdf from B&Q made into an indoor bench. Would I sand before my primer (Zinzer Bin) or after? Thank you!
I would sand after as discussed here th-cam.com/video/763yQg0Euwc/w-d-xo.html 👍
Have you yried shellac for the undercoat? Not water based so I'm wondering if it wuldn't make the MDF swell like water based finishes.
+Al Perger I haven't Al. There's a lot of debate about the pros and cons of water based versus oil based so I think I'm going to do a video investigating the effect of each on the end grain. Watch this space!
Which paint is best for wood
Will i be able to do away with spackling my edges by following his steps? Spackling all my edges would be a pain.
Yeah. Use sealer on the edges, and just primer on the surface.
Can we directly paint on sunmica
Did you obtain a smooth finish with the roller or was it orange peel?
Hi I'm using mdf strips to do wall panelling. I will be emulsioning the wall after would you recommend priming the mdf strips before I emulsion them?
I wouldn't emulsion MDF even though it's on a wall. I'd use an acrylic satinwood paint.
Hi Charlie great video. I've just ballsed my mdf/kitchen laminated cupboard doors. Used no primer but Wilko mdf paint which went gloopy and dried claggy. Also where I've filled where the damp gotten in and rubbed down it looks porous. Do you think sanding it slightly again and repaint or sand and add primer over the original coat then add a coat of satin again? Sarah
I'd be inclined to sand lightly to give yourself a new key for the paint and try something like Zinsser BIN primer. It's shellac based so should help with the problem you've got with the porous patches. Then apply the top coat.
@@CharlieDIYte OK thankyou so much. I have seen some primer by johnsons for multi surfaces? I have sanded lightly and that's smoothed it alot. Failing that can you just come round and do my cupboards 😉Thanks Charlie
@@sarahlh34 That's fine. You can't go wrong with Johnstone's. I've used their Joncryl primer on MDF before.
Hi i have a mdf bunk bed whats best way of painting do i use 2coats of mdf quick drying primer and then what can i use on top furniture paint?
Well i wanted to paint a frozen themed bed but not sure if the water based furniture paints will make the mdf go bad?
For fixing a scratched mdf surface, what type of sandpaper would you use? What is the process to fixing a used mdf surface you want to repaint?
Do you apply any type of polyurethane over your paint for a top coat for added protection? I heard polyurethane will yellow and it has on my chalk paint products. I’m repainting a hutch that is part wood and MDF. Just wondering about a top coat.
It's a good idea, particularly for surfaces like kitchen tables to stop the red wine etc sinking in and staining. If you're worried about the varnish you could always try water based varnish, or lacquer?
There is a varnish you can get that's especially meant for tables. It looks almost like a white varnish. I use that when I upcycle furniture and it actually comes out as good as new.
hi everyone , can you paint over previous colour on mdf cupboard doors which are matt painted, any comment would be good
Hi using the same brush you recommend, i can’t quite get a smooth finish. There is a kind of texture. Any advice?
I've just had a look at the various bits of MDF woodwork I've painted over the years and the fact of the matter is that you're always going to get a slight stipple if you use a roller - whether that's a mohair roller like the one I use, or a foam roller that people more typically use for gloss or satin top coats. If you want a truly smooth finish, you're going to have to spray paint it.
Thanks for sharing, so can you apply a clear coat as a last step? Thanks once again for sharing
Yes, that will make it more durable able. Something like polyvine or minwax.
About to start a large book case project with MDF. so these are useful tips. have you ever applied a clear coat or even mixed a clear coat into the final top coat? as i have heard that this gets good results but never tried it. thanks for sharing. i enjoy your videos.
Hi Nick - that's really kind - much appreciated!
No, I haven't applied a clear coat or mixed one into the final top coat - presumably you're talking about a high gloss lacquer or similar like this goo.gl/kAtLf0 ? I guess it depends on how much of a mirror effect you want to get on the finish.
However I've always gone for a satin finish as these are just projects around the house, and time is in short supply... and I dare I say it, if you've got a large book case to complete, you're going to be working on it for months to get the sort of mirror finish he achieved in the above link.
If it was me making a large book case, I'd spend lots of time lightly sanding between coats to remove as much of the imperfections as possible - and do at least two coats of primer and possibly 3 coats of satin or gloss.
And the one thing I would say is that the edges are the most problematic part when painting mdf - and the one area you will want to get right if you're going for a really professional finish. I'm going to do a video this week to show you how to properly seal the edges with wood filler, to get a truly smooth finish - so keep your eye out for that!
Good luck with the project and thanks again for taking the time to visit my channel :)
As promised, here's how to seal the edges, Nick goo.gl/jflfSS
thanks Charlie. the massive project starts Monday. might be painting MDF for a whole week!
Good luck with the project!
Nice video, thank you. I read somewhere that water-based paint (and/or primer) may cause MDF to buckle, so they advised acrylic instead. I guess that's overkill (needless hassle) in your opinion?
Well, acrylic is still water based. No, the main reason in my experience that MDF warps is because of the way it's stored (not flat) the work table isn't flat and or its not adequately hinged down it's length. I'll be talking about this in my final wardrobe build video this weekend.
Thank you.
You're welcome 👍
Do I apply my paint after all these steps or do I mix my paint with the gloss?
Not really sure what you mean? You need to get a good wood primer undercoat, or MDF primer, and then a satin or gloss top coat, then follow the steps I showed you in the video.
Hiya. We are updating the wRdrobe doors as the laminate was peeling. Unfortunately this has left glue on surface. How do we remove this? Vid good explains lots. OH likes the explanations too!
I think you'll have to sand it. Buy a random orbit sander if you haven't already got one. 👍
Thanks a lot for the video!
I wasn’t able to find water base - undercoat primer around my area! does acrylic water-base primer do the job?
Which one are you thinking of using? Can you get Zinsser BIN. That stuff is the best primer - I use it for everything these days.
@@CharlieDIYte Unfortunately, it is not available in Saudi Arabia! however, I used the acrylic water base primer (Matt) then 2 coats of top coat color. so far, it is working well. btw, it is not the regular MDF, the one i’m using is the green one.
Thank you for your video, really saved me so much time 🙏🏼🙏🏼
Never included the finished produced cause he thought that'll do iv made my video cba with painting them again.
Good video tho I'm gonna do this tomorrow so thanks for the tips. Nice and easy just the way it should be.
Not always easy to include the finished product, if I'm videoing mid project, but here it is. Thanks for the comment though.
Is the satin top coat Satin Wood paint?
Hi, I don’t want a sheen finish and would like to use a Matt paint on my mdf after a primer. Would this be okay or do you always have to use a paint that has a sheen?
No, you can definitely use a matt paint on MDF.
If I was to use this method on cabinets that have already been painted, would I need to sand off the old paint first?
You don't need to sand it OFF but it's advisable to give it a light sand with a reasonable fine grade sand paper eg 120 or 180 grit, to give the surface a key for the new primer coat. Also take a look at Zinsser BIN as a primer as it has excellent adhesion th-cam.com/video/2YOASvodntU/w-d-xo.html to tricky painted surfaces. It's the only primer I use these days.
Preparation is key paining any substrate, if you want the best outcome. If fact, painting is relatively easy, most of the work is in the prep and set-up.
would you recommend mdf for use as a bath panel? I would probably wipe epoxy resin over the edges before painting.
I guess if you prime and top coat it throughly, then it'll be fine. I'd be tempted to prime it with a shellac based primer like Zinsser B.I.N. Alternatively, and if you can get hold of it, moisture resistant MDF would be a better option. I have an MDF panel in my bathroom - part of the bathroom cupboards that you may have seen in one of my videos - and because I didn't seal the edges (I didn't think it necessary because they were butting up to a pine corner piece), just from humidity in the bathroom - which isn't particularly high - the edges have blown a little.
Thanks for you reply, Charlie. I did ask Zinsser which primer to use and they recommended their Bull's Eye 123 primer for its protection against fungal degradation in humid areas. Great videos by the way. I'm learning a lot.
I've got old built-in wardrobes that I'd like to paint, I'm not sure if these are the same as what you mean by MDF? They've got almost a veneer on them similar to kitchen cabinets..
They're either veneered MDF or possibly (more likely) chipboard. Give them a sand to make a key and prime them with Zinsser BIN. Then you can top coat them with whatever you want (egg shell, satin or gloss).
Hi. I want my new mdf cupboard in living room to be the same as the wall paint. Can I paint it in emulsion? Thanks n
You can but it won't be nearly as durable as if you paint it with an acrylic wood paint.
I know the dust is harmful when working with it but is MDF in any way harmful after it has been primed, sanded, painted, and mounted onto whatever project we’re using it for?
not really, unless you take the formaldehyde into account. Look up how the formaldehyde in MDF can off gas. besides that wear a mask when you cut it. or go to a dedicated lumberyard and get some nice solid wood or plywood. MDF is a pain.
hi, im planning on removing the laminate thats on my cuobaord, which ive of previously painted but the cupboards are 20 years plus old so they were already crakced, so when i remove them and before painting them i would like to make them flat, mine have a groove going all around, not a straight groove but an olf fashioned kind of rounded edge farmhouse groove so to speak, can i fill that in with wood glue and sand over to flatten it? the groove is about 3.5cm in width. i can imagine i would need a few layers since its about a 1.5cm ingrove i thinj, hard to measure it prioerly especially since it groove in twice like a rippled edge if you get me, thanks
excuses terrible typing, using an ipad and typed too quicky >.
+Megan D Hmmm. You wouldn't want to fill with wood glue. You'd be better using a 2 part filler like the one I featured here th-cam.com/video/Jaj1SEm8boQ/w-d-xo.html. That said, you've got a very wide groove going all round the door which is going to take a heap of wood filler, not to mention an epic amount of sanding. You might be better to go to your local DIY store and get them to cut you a brand new piece of MDF to the same dimensions as the existing door. You've then only got to add the hinges back on. Then you've got a lovely unblemished door that simply needs painting?
Charlie DIYte ahhh yes, just watched and it would probably take way too long and too much filler, for now ill leave the grooves and just paint as youv instructed in this video... if the grooves start to really bug me then ill gonto a store for some mdf. these cupboards are so old so the measurements are all over so can never easily find replacment doors without it bejng 'made to fit' and mire expensive haha. thank you :)
There is such difference in material so you considering P120 as fine sandpapaer? Fine sandpaper starting for me at 600 mabybe 1000
+Jan Smrz Sure, but I wouldn't use 600 or 1000 grade for this application 🤔
Hey Mate,
how you doing? I am doing a mdf based project. And thinking to paint it with some wall paint, is it good or i have to used some specific paint. shed some light.
+Arsalan Khan I wouldn't paint MDF with emulsion. I'd always use a wood primer undercoat and then a wood paint (satin or gloss depending on the finish you're after) mixed to the same colour as the emulsion you're using on the walls. Why are you keen to use emulsion?
Now I am going to use satin. Thanks for clarifying my concern
ما نوع الصبغ لصبغ الخشب وما الاسم ، هل صبغ حراري
Hi Charlie, can you use an oil based paint ontop off a water based undercoat/primer? Obviously an indoors project too!
Yes, not a problem with that. Painting water based on top of an oil based primer can be a bit more problematic, although you can certainly do this with the shellac based Zinsser BIN primer.
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks. I had bought the Johnsrone's undercoat/primer you mentioned a while back and decided to go for No Nonsense Water-Based Gloss Paint. I just bought it from screwfix as it had a decent review. I'll let you know if it cracks or peels!
good
Hi Charlie, Can you give any tips for re-painting MDF? Thanks.
Hi there. Now that is a good question!
There's lots of stuff out there about re-painting MDF, but if it was me, I would do the following:
- start by sanding all surfaces that need to be repainted. I'd get a small sanding block - you can either make this out of a small block of wood like I do in my videos, or get one of these goo.gl/S1W3z1. Use a fine sand paper ie 150-180 grit sandpaper. You're not trying to completely take off the existing paint. You're just doing this to roughen up the surface to make it receptive to the primer that you're then going to paint on top.
- vacuum off all the dust - with a small brush attachment if you've got one, and then wipe over the surfaces to remove any remaining dust - with a dry cotton cloth or duster. Some people recommend tack cloths but I don't think you'd need to go to this length if you've vacuumed it first.
- apply one coat of wood primer undercoat/ or mdf primer - or two coats if the paint you using to repaint the MDF is lighter in colour than the original. Use a roller - preferably something like this goo.gl/koGxmH (and a good quality bristle paint brush for the areas you can't get to with the roller). I use mini mohair rollers for undercoats and top coats as I think they give a really good smooth texture to the paint finish. Some people say the undercoat should be oil based, but I don't see why, particularly given the MDF is already painted.
- then apply two coats of satin or gloss (depending on which finish you've chosen), using the mohair roller and a good quality bristle paint brush for the areas you can't get to with the roller.
Thank you Sir, for the detailed answer.!
You're welcome!
@@CharlieDIYte Just finished a little project recently repainting some fitted wardrobes from mid cream to white and just wanted to suggest anyone reading this to definitely do 2 undecoats.
I only did one and at some areas the old paint still flashes through. Gutted cause I put a lot of time and effort doing the job thoroughly but alas.
For reference I used Leyland Acrylic Primer and Undercoat followed by 2 coats of Johnstone's Quickdry Satin.
@@m.o.2085 That's useful info. I used some Leyland Contract Matt emulsion recently and I was REALLY disappointed at how poor the coverage was. Next time you have a primer job get yourself some Zinsser B.I.N. It's in a different League for coverage being shellac based and you won't have that problem of old paint flashing through. You also may only need one coat.
Nice job Charlie, similar to my method albeit I never have exposed edges, I avoid by having long mitres which are always fun😂 or trim the edges with wood. Do you use MR MDF of standard cheap stuff?
Thanks Richard - much appreciated! Can you explain how you eliminate all edges with the mitres? I get it for the drawer corners, but what about shelves etc? I guess the pro joiners always put some sort of a trim on all exposed shelf edges.
Charlie DIYte I wouldn't know what pro joiners do😀, I often make pieces with front faces such as radiator covers, tv units etc and always use a long vertical mitre to join the front and side sections, it makes for a tricky glue up but helped by some supporting blocks and brackets on the inside to hold mites in place at 90 degrees. for shelves I do trim with wood normally just pine as it's painted, just finishing one actually, although next time I will try the edging tape. Thanks
What is that MDF?
If I've applied 2 coats of MDF primer, will that be good enough to start applying my satin coats?
Sorry Liam - missed this somehow! You've doubtless finished the job by now, but yes, 2 coats of MDF primer are more than adequate. Are you happy with the finished job?
and he never replied
Brandon Grant I'm still wondering how it worked out for Liam
I think Liam inhaled too much MDF dust... RIP Liam 🙁
Now that you have tried zinsser primer, would you recommend it over the primer you have used here?
I don't use any other primer now, other than BIN. The only issue with it is using it on very hot days, it dries almost before you can get it on the wood!
@@CharlieDIYte thanks
@@CharlieDIYte I confirm the BIN primer is amazing. My kitchen cabinets came out very good. Do you usually apply a clear coat on top of the top coat? Dulux says their satinwood range should last 4 years in the kitchen, but i think the hard wear and tear might make it last less.
Charlie, Great videos, i'm from belgium i use a lot MDF... i see u painting and i felt pain :). cause i know how long it is to paint furnitures...
one thing realy change my life its when i begon to paint with paint sprayers, it was like 4 times faster with same result (depend of the sprayer u use ben even when a cheap Wagner, u can have very correct results.)
Maybee u have tried allready and u didnt have good experience like i had ...if u did not try , can be great if u make a video of the comparaison. (pistol vs brush or thing like that) . thanks for reading me and keep going .
PS : If u want to try ; u can go with Wagner Flexio 690 (not expensive and nice results with water paints, dont forger to delay ur paint a little)
Hi there! Thanks for the comment. Yes, we did find painting that cupboard /wardrobe very painful (I've got to admit, painting isn't my favourite DIY job!)
What you say makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the recommendation on the Wagner Flexio 690. I'll look into this and you'll be the first to know if I do a video comparison.
Charlie DIYte great !
What is the difference between a waterbased satin topcoat and a satinwood water based paint? Can I use paint instead or should I use top coat over paint? Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated
Satin refers to the fact that the paint has a mid sheen. Satinwood paints will be a bit more durable on wood than a generic satin paint that you can also apply to wood.
Kilz oil based primer works superbly well and it’s cheap, it’s $10 gallon usd. What I can tell you “not to do” is use an acrylic spray primer. The mdf will soak it all up. It only took me once to learn from my mistake.
prime all the flat surfaces before you cut and when you assemble the furniture , just do the ends .. I spray all mdf prior to cutting either with an airless or a hvlp gravity feed fast mover ... just saying
So I got some mdf cabinets can I paint them ?
Basically yes.
have you ever clear finished mdf after painting? thanks!
You mean applied a clear lacquer on top of the paint? I did this on my kitchen table to protect against red wine stains.
oh, so it is doable...cool. can I use clear polyurethane?
Great video and tips how to paint MDF. Also for some reason you remind me Gordon Ramsey man. If you had some mess on your head and started talking about food and cooking you could be his double 🤔😁
Ha, thanks. You're not the first to say that 🤣
I was just about to paint and I've had so many conflicting comments. I bought a water based primer but I've been told I have to use an oil based one.
A water based primer is fine Nicola as I showed in this video. You just want to sand down the edges though as I did here th-cam.com/video/763yQg0Euwc/w-d-xo.html before and after painting. If you had primed with oil based you wouldn't be able to use a water based top coat on top - the exception to this being you can paint water based top coats over Zinsser BIN primer - which is shellac based.