Hi Mike Thank you! Yes it’s awesome for adhesion and dries fast. I also clean up with Ammonia, but sometimes have a issue with the smell. Have you tried using Denatured Alcohol? Russ
I like to use BIN cause it dries fast and adheres to the varnish with no sanding needed. I oh course De gloss first. The BIN also is very thin, so it won’t leave a heavy nap if you work fast with the 1/4 inch nap microfiber roller
It might be interesting to see an additional test: How would the results compare if you put a topcoat of Advance on top of the BIN and the Fresh Start - and a topcoat of Emerald Urethane on top of another section that was also primed with BIN and Fresh Start. Anyway, thanks for a terrific video Russ!!
Really great video, thank you. Perfect test, you've really helped me narrow down a primer for my laminate job I need to use. Storing heavy musical equipment in my shelves. Going with the BIN.
Thank you! Excellent review. I would have been really curious to see how they compared if you did not prep the surface. A lot of these bonding primers claim you don't have to sand or degloss the surface. I have only tried one so far, Behr bonding primer. It didn't work at all unless I sanded the glossy surface. But as you have shown, all primers pretty much work if you do that. Thanks again, I appreciate it.
Thank you very Much! Yes, Always at least degloss the surface to clean and get rid of dust! I haven't tried the Behr Bonding primer. So did you have to strip it all off again?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Thank you for your fast reply! I just finished watching your series of videos on repainting kitchen cabinets. Excellent information and great camera work as well! Fortunately, I only did the inside of one cabinet door to test it. So yes, had to strip it all off. But it came off so easy by just putting tape on it and pull the tape off, so it wasn't too bad. I am going to try just using a deglosser without sanding and see how it works. If it doesn't hold, I will try the BIN shellac primer. I have heard great things about the shellac primer but I was hoping to use a water based primer. However, I am now doubting that the water based primers will work without sanding. Thanks again for your great videos and helpful answers. I watched you paint the molding between the cabinet and ceiling perfectly! That was amazing. Is there a reason you don't use a sprayer? I'm just curious.
My experience has been if the bare wood is a particle board type, which is common under cheap paneling like you sanded, that water based primers cause that particle board wood to swell up and crate bumps. That does not occur as much with oil based primers. Either way, if bumps appear after the wood has been primed, more sanding is required and then a second coat of primer must be added.
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow I just did a test of three primers on a scrap piece of shiny old wood paneling: Sherwin Williams Extreme Block, INSL-X Primall, and Kilz 2 All Purpose. Waiting 24 hours to cure, the fingernail scratch test failed to remove any primer. The dull screwdriver scratch test put a line mark but did not remove any of those primers. The sharp edge of a chisel started to remove the primer. This paneling is a laminate which I sanded with 220 grit and it had some spots down to bare wood. None of the bare wood spots swelled up. I would not hesitate to use any of these on my paneling repainting project on my next house I am moving to.
Do you have any videos compering shellac vs Sherwin Williams extreme blocking or bon wate and oil base?? I love bin shellac the only thing is smelly lol ... I tried also a rodda product but smell worse..
Hi- The Zinsser BIN does have a foul odor, but it disipates extremely fast. This is because it dries fast. Oil based primers take longer to dry and therefore, smell for hours after applying, I find that I can tolerate the fumes if I ventilate the room properly and roll with a 4 inch roller.
I've done this exact test and yes the conclusion is the same. Still the bin is superior because of easy cleanup and also the leveling and sandability for a great finished product.
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow well for finish coats I normally use an acrylic urethane or enamel but with methylhydrate the easiest thing to clean is the BIN. Oil primer cleanups are definitely difficult to do if you're trying to get the same results
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow personally no, because I never use tinted primer on bare wood or cabinets. Tinting a primer gray for red paint I have done, because ot makes the red look better and hides well, but when you want the sticky adhesive bonding properly of a good primer for cabinets or wood or metal's it's best to avoid because tinting changes the property of the primer. It's not so much an opinion, I've been painting for 14 years, it's just what ever paint store recommends as well as doing a quick Google search and checking out painter forums.
Hi Thanks for sharing your opinion. Some primers are not meant to be tinted, but A lot are. Many Primers say right on the Can that it can be Tinted using up to so many ounces of universal colorant per gallon. Many Bright and Deep colors require a tinted primer! I think many people who mix paint are not knowledgeable of what tint to use or that they may screw it up, so they say that you shouldn’t tint the primer because it will effect the adhesion. Have you had this happen to you?
Hello, I’m thinking of painting my cabinets that are from the 80s. They’re a wood grain, but not solid wood, I don’t know exactly what they’re called. Do you think the bin would be a good choice for cabinets? And recommendations for a topcoat?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Sorry, I can’t see it either now. Thanks for the reply. I don’t think it’s a varnish. It’s kind of the same texture that older wood grain hollow core doors are made of, but on a cabinet door. Would cleaning with TSP be good enough? Also what would you recommend for a topcoat for cabinets. Electrician here, painting is something I know very little about and any advice is much appreciated.
Hi John Yes TSP will work. I use a liquid Deglosser. I would use Sherwin Williams Emerald Trim and urethane paint. Another paint is Benjamin Moore Advance. Both level out Nicely! Where u from? Russ
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Thank you I’ll check them both out and get a Deglosser. Everything that I’ve been reading is that it’s a huge pain to paint that type of cabinet but I’ll give it a shot. I’m in NorCal.
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Thank you! That is exactly the information I was looking for. I bought the Behr Bonding primer (water based) because it said that you can apply over oil based glossy paints with NO sanding. I found if I apply with no sanding, it comes right off. However, if I lightly sand the glossy surface, then it passed the scratch test and seems to stick well. But it cost twice as much as regular primer so I was really disappointed because it basically did the same as a regular primer like bullseye 123 would do. I am planning to paint my old kitchen cabinets that were previously painted with a oil based semi gloss paint and I was hoping to save some time by finding a primer that did not require sanding. Thanks!
@@hikariscissors Thanks for sharing your experience with the Behr primer with and without sanding! Yes, your best bet is the Zinsser BIN over the Oil Semigloss. Do a light sand and then Degloss. What color is the old paint and what color is the new cabinet paint?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow The old paint is an off white and I am going to put on a high gloss pure white. I hope that's ok. Maybe too shiny? Thanks again!
Hi Chris The Sherwin Williams Extreme Bonding Primer is also a great bonding primer provided you do your prep work. I haven’t tried the UMA by XIM. Russ
I like your videos and like real experiments like this. But, bulls eye 123 takes 7 days to fully adhere, you only gave it 2. Since you like to know; I'm in Toronto.
Hi Tony Yes full adhesion is 7 days and must be too coated with in 30 days. That’s not sanding and Deglossing like I did. What your preferred primer over varnish or polyurethane?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Hi Russ, I never used it, but I think B-I-N would be best. But since it's more expensive I would just sand and use Zinsser Cover Stain. I like how it sands out. Sanding/de-glossing or not, BE 1-2-3 requires 7 days to fully adhere, that is especially important in an experiment.
Hi Yes thanks for sharing that! My concern was with the Zinsser BIN. It must be top Coated with in 3 days so I gave it 2 days to cure. In a perfect world I should of waited 7 days to top coat the Bulls Eye 123. What I like about the Bin is that it’s really thin and you can apply 2 coats in same day and then top coat!
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow I don't see anything in Zinsser's technical data sheet about requiring top coat within 3 days. Actually it says it takes 1-3 days to to fully cure. Yes, it's super fast drying and can even recoat in 45 min!
Home Depot sells this and they recommend this. To ensure full durability with Rust-Oleum Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Based Primer, we do recommend applying a topcoat within 3 days of application.
Been watching your vids over the past year. About to roll some bin on some cabinets and in between using foam roller or microfiber like you use. Any reasons to not use foam? Have a good day
After I roll the primer on to transfer from my paint pail, I use a 1.5 inch brush in the corners or recessed areas to spread out evenly, then take away brush strokes with roller again!
Hi Frank Just so you know It’s not practical to paint tile on all bathroom surfaces. But your paint job will last the longest on tiled bathroom surfaces that receive low to moderate exposure to moisture-think bathroom floors. Your best bet is to use an epoxy or urethane primers. Have you researched this? Russ
Russ, I'm thinking that simple water cleanup is my number one priority and I am not even considering running a fork over my work. I'm going with the Zinsser Bullseye this time.
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Nope. I have a quart of 123 and have gone through a gallon and a half of Gards for sizing walls before wallpapering. My next Zinsser purchase will be the Triple Thick exterior primer before I paint the garage door, the front door, some shutters and various other trim with Some Valspar Duramax I bought at Lowe's.
Hi Ok great! Let me know after you work with the Zinsser Peel Stop Triple Thick Binding Primer? Aren’t you supposed to use Zinsser Shieldz for the wall covering primer Sealer? Russ
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow many Benjamin Moore distributors won’t tint it anymore, colorant degrades the adhesion. There’s no reason to be tinting it, it’s an adhesion primer.
Hi Juan Thanks for your comment! I sanded and used a Liquid Sander to promote adhesion! I used 4 primers, and they all did a great job! Don’t u think? Russ
Sorry, that was type-o. What I meant to say is you didn’t mechanically sand well on the spot where you painted with the stix. Look over the video yourself and you will see.
Yes I just used a sander to create a mechanical bond before using a liquid sander to dull, clean, and soften the surface. They all performed great! Russ
@RussOlinatzPaintShow oh!! I see his point. You did not hit the top 3 inches of your sample board with the palm sander, except for one quick swipe towards the end. P😊 That said, the 123 is hot garbage as far as primer goes. I would say the same for any waterborn primer. The BIN gets great reviews. I use CoverStain. The Ben Moore Underbody is great but takes to long to dry.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Very helpful Saving alot of people money! I appreciate you!
Thank you!
Hey mate this was a fantastic test, thank you for giving us your time.
Thanks Mate! Have I seen my Recent Shorts?
@ I am probably not the best person to answer that question
Great video. BIN is my go to primer for stains and when I want the best adhesion. I also find clean up is easy with ammonia and water.
Hi Mike
Thank you! Yes it’s awesome for adhesion and dries fast. I also clean up with Ammonia, but sometimes have a issue with the smell. Have you tried using Denatured Alcohol?
Russ
Denatured alcohol works good since it is an alcoholic base primer , paint thinner for oil base , mineral spirts on my machines
Yes it works great! What kind of machines?
Which one would be best on oak cabinets?
I like to use BIN cause it dries fast and adheres to the varnish with no sanding needed. I oh course De gloss first. The BIN also is very thin, so it won’t leave a heavy nap if you work fast with the 1/4 inch nap microfiber roller
STIX primer is my go to….it has always served me well over the years….
Yes it’s a great water based bonding primer!
It might be interesting to see an additional test: How would the results compare if you put a topcoat of Advance on top of the BIN and the Fresh Start - and a topcoat of Emerald Urethane on top of another section that was also primed with BIN and Fresh Start. Anyway, thanks for a terrific video Russ!!
Thanks Leroy! I will make u that video!
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow great!!
How u making out on cabinets?
Really great video, thank you. Perfect test, you've really helped me narrow down a primer for my laminate job I need to use. Storing heavy musical equipment in my shelves. Going with the BIN.
Hi Craig
The ZInsser BIN Adheres Awesome and Dries fast! Do 2 Coats and Tint BIN to desired Top Coat. What are you going to Top Coat with?
Russ
Thank you! Excellent review. I would have been really curious to see how they compared if you did not prep the surface. A lot of these bonding primers claim you don't have to sand or degloss the surface. I have only tried one so far, Behr bonding primer. It didn't work at all unless I sanded the glossy surface. But as you have shown, all primers pretty much work if you do that. Thanks again, I appreciate it.
Thank you very Much! Yes, Always at least degloss the surface to clean and get rid of dust! I haven't tried the Behr Bonding primer. So did you have to strip it all off again?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Thank you for your fast reply! I just finished watching your series of videos on repainting kitchen cabinets. Excellent information and great camera work as well! Fortunately, I only did the inside of one cabinet door to test it. So yes, had to strip it all off. But it came off so easy by just putting tape on it and pull the tape off, so it wasn't too bad. I am going to try just using a deglosser without sanding and see how it works. If it doesn't hold, I will try the BIN shellac primer. I have heard great things about the shellac primer but I was hoping to use a water based primer. However, I am now doubting that the water based primers will work without sanding. Thanks again for your great videos and helpful answers. I watched you paint the molding between the cabinet and ceiling perfectly! That was amazing. Is there a reason you don't use a sprayer? I'm just curious.
@@hikariscissors I don't spray. Water based primers work fine on water based paints, but oil is a different story.
Thanks, I'm painting some old kitchen cabinets this week and will be using BIN primer followed by a couple of coats of acrylic eggshell!
Nice! Are you going to spray or Roll?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow I'll be rolling them with a foam roller
Have u tried the 1/4 inch microfiber?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow I have tried similar
@Nickpaintbrush what brand?
Great demonstration. Thanks , Russ.
Thank you!
Nice one Russ , BIN is a great multi-purpose primer. I always makes sure i have some on my van.(truck)
Yes Thank you!
Awesome video. Would like to see more comparisons including some others have mentioned. God bless.
Ok great!
My experience has been if the bare wood is a particle board type, which is common under cheap paneling like you sanded, that water based primers cause that particle board wood to swell up and crate bumps. That does not occur as much with oil based primers. Either way, if bumps appear after the wood has been primed, more sanding is required and then a second coat of primer must be added.
Hi Chris
Yes, good point! What primer do u like to use?
Russ
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow I just did a test of three primers on a scrap piece of shiny old wood paneling: Sherwin Williams Extreme Block, INSL-X Primall, and Kilz 2 All Purpose. Waiting 24 hours to cure, the fingernail scratch test failed to remove any primer. The dull screwdriver scratch test put a line mark but did not remove any of those primers. The sharp edge of a chisel started to remove the primer. This paneling is a laminate which I sanded with 220 grit and it had some spots down to bare wood. None of the bare wood spots swelled up. I would not hesitate to use any of these on my paneling repainting project on my next house I am moving to.
Hi Chris
Thanks for doing that test! All 3 of those primers are great! Have you tested out the Zinsser Smart Primer?
Do you have any videos compering shellac vs Sherwin Williams extreme blocking or bon wate and oil base?? I love bin shellac the only thing is smelly lol ... I tried also a rodda product but smell worse..
Hi-
The Zinsser BIN does have a foul odor, but it disipates extremely fast. This is because it dries fast. Oil based primers take longer to dry and therefore, smell for hours after applying, I find that I can tolerate the fumes if I ventilate the room properly and roll with a 4 inch roller.
I've done this exact test and yes the conclusion is the same. Still the bin is superior because of easy cleanup and also the leveling and sandability for a great finished product.
Hello Ian
Thanks for sharing your experience! Yes, I love the BIN! Why do you say that it’s Easy Clean up?
Russ
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow well for finish coats I normally use an acrylic urethane or enamel but with methylhydrate the easiest thing to clean is the BIN. Oil primer cleanups are definitely difficult to do if you're trying to get the same results
Yes I top coat the same! What roller do you use?
What would be the best scuff resistant paint to go over kitchen cabinets? That is prime with shellac primer?
I like Sherwin Williams Emerald urethane, but others like scuff X. I like Emerald because it levels out great when applying
Props for the content!
Thank you!
Very helpful video and comments, thanks!
Hi Jeff
Thank you! I’m currently putting together more primer Tests. Stay tuned for more videos!
Russ
What do you recommend for painted cedar siding that has persitent peeling and cracking on the knots?
Zinsser Peel Stop Triple thick primer!
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Thank you sir!
Tinted primer dosn't bond as well as untinted, its usually best to keep primer untinted even if it means having to do a little extra work.
Hi
Thanks for sharing your opinion! Have you had any trouble with bonding using a tinted primer?
Russ
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow personally no, because I never use tinted primer on bare wood or cabinets. Tinting a primer gray for red paint I have done, because ot makes the red look better and hides well, but when you want the sticky adhesive bonding properly of a good primer for cabinets or wood or metal's it's best to avoid because tinting changes the property of the primer. It's not so much an opinion, I've been painting for 14 years, it's just what ever paint store recommends as well as doing a quick Google search and checking out painter forums.
Hi
Thanks for sharing your opinion. Some primers are not meant to be tinted, but A lot are. Many Primers say right on the Can that it can be Tinted using up to so many ounces of universal colorant per gallon. Many Bright and Deep colors require a tinted primer! I think many people who mix paint are not knowledgeable of what tint to use or that they may screw it up, so they say that you shouldn’t tint the primer because it will effect the adhesion. Have you had this happen to you?
Wow great demonstration thanks buddy
Thanks Marco!
Thanks for this. ❤
👍
Hello, I’m thinking of painting my cabinets that are from the 80s. They’re a wood grain, but not solid wood, I don’t know exactly what they’re called. Do you think the bin would be a good choice for cabinets? And recommendations for a topcoat?
Hi John
Yes Bin is the best choice especially if your trying to bond to Varnish or Polyurethane. Are your cabinets varnished?
Russ
I can’t see your recent comment
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Sorry, I can’t see it either now. Thanks for the reply. I don’t think it’s a varnish. It’s kind of the same texture that older wood grain hollow core doors are made of, but on a cabinet door. Would cleaning with TSP be good enough? Also what would you recommend for a topcoat for cabinets. Electrician here, painting is something I know very little about and any advice is much appreciated.
Hi John
Yes TSP will work. I use a liquid Deglosser. I would use Sherwin Williams Emerald Trim and urethane paint. Another paint is Benjamin Moore Advance. Both level out Nicely! Where u from?
Russ
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Thank you I’ll check them both out and get a Deglosser. Everything that I’ve been reading is that it’s a huge pain to paint that type of cabinet but I’ll give it a shot. I’m in NorCal.
As a guess, which one would be best on gloss oil based paint with no sanding?
Zinsser BIN!
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Thank you! That is exactly the information I was looking for. I bought the Behr Bonding primer (water based) because it said that you can apply over oil based glossy paints with NO sanding. I found if I apply with no sanding, it comes right off. However, if I lightly sand the glossy surface, then it passed the scratch test and seems to stick well. But it cost twice as much as regular primer so I was really disappointed because it basically did the same as a regular primer like bullseye 123 would do. I am planning to paint my old kitchen cabinets that were previously painted with a oil based semi gloss paint and I was hoping to save some time by finding a primer that did not require sanding. Thanks!
@@hikariscissors Thanks for sharing your experience with the Behr primer with and without sanding! Yes, your best bet is the Zinsser BIN over the Oil Semigloss. Do a light sand and then Degloss. What color is the old paint and what color is the new cabinet paint?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow The old paint is an off white and I am going to put on a high gloss pure white. I hope that's ok. Maybe too shiny? Thanks again!
@@hikariscissors Yes might be too shiny. I like to use a Satin Sheen!
I was wondering, the zinsser primer, the can says white but the paint looks like a soft cream color. I need that color, but what is that called?
Hi Michelle
I don’t know but it has yellow in it. Just ask the paint store to scan the bin color. Do you have a can of the bin primer?
Russ
Awesome test
Thanks!
I bought the BIN. Guess I made the right choice
Awesome!
How would you compare these to both the extreme bonding primer from sherwin and UMA by XIM?
Hi Chris
The Sherwin Williams Extreme Bonding Primer is also a great bonding primer provided you do your prep work. I haven’t tried the UMA by XIM.
Russ
Is there pink primer?
Yes if you tint it towards your top Coat!
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow I bought a 5gal primer bucket from lowes and it was pink color
What brand?
Bulls eye, I was hoping it was going to turn white or gray after drying but no it stayed pink
Wow! So u purchased a tinted primer?
I like your videos and like real experiments like this. But, bulls eye 123 takes 7 days to fully adhere, you only gave it 2. Since you like to know; I'm in Toronto.
Hi Tony
Yes full adhesion is 7 days and must be too coated with in 30 days. That’s not sanding and Deglossing like I did. What your preferred primer over varnish or polyurethane?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Hi Russ,
I never used it, but I think B-I-N would be best. But since it's more expensive I would just sand and use Zinsser Cover Stain. I like how it sands out.
Sanding/de-glossing or not, BE 1-2-3 requires 7 days to fully adhere, that is especially important in an experiment.
Hi
Yes thanks for sharing that! My concern was with the Zinsser BIN. It must be top Coated with in 3 days so I gave it 2 days to cure. In a perfect world I should of waited 7 days to top coat the Bulls Eye 123. What I like about the Bin is that it’s really thin and you can apply 2 coats in same day and then top coat!
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow I don't see anything in Zinsser's technical data sheet about requiring top coat within 3 days. Actually it says it takes 1-3 days to to fully cure. Yes, it's super fast drying and can even recoat in 45 min!
Home Depot sells this and they recommend this. To ensure full durability with Rust-Oleum Zinsser B-I-N Shellac-Based Primer, we do recommend applying a topcoat within 3 days of application.
Been watching your vids over the past year. About to roll some bin on some cabinets and in between using foam roller or microfiber like you use. Any reasons to not use foam?
Have a good day
Hi
I have used both. The advantage of using the microfiber 1/4 inch nap is you are able to get into the crevices and corner easier.
Russ
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow sold. How do stop the paint from building up when pushing the tip of roller into the corners or designs
Thinking about using that whizzflock
After I roll the primer on to transfer from my paint pail, I use a 1.5 inch brush in the corners or recessed areas to spread out evenly, then take away brush strokes with roller again!
Try them both and see which one you like better!
Thanks Mate!
👍
Great revue!
Thanks Charlie!
Great vid!
Thank you Ben!
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow russ what primer would you recommend for wall shower tile
Hi Frank
Are you painting over tile in a shower?
Russ
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow yes
Hi Frank
Just so you know It’s not practical to paint tile on all bathroom surfaces. But your paint job will last the longest on tiled bathroom surfaces that receive low to moderate exposure to moisture-think bathroom floors. Your best bet is to use an epoxy or urethane primers. Have you researched this?
Russ
Thx dude ! I was on the fence and you cleared my mind for me.
Awesome! Good Luck!
Can I use BIN on tike floor?
What floor?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow tile porcelain
No it’s not recommended!
Russ, I'm thinking that simple water cleanup is my number one priority and I am not even considering running a fork over my work. I'm going with the Zinsser Bullseye this time.
Hi
Simple water clean up is a blessing!
Russ
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow As the folks over at Western Airlines use to say... "It's the only way to fly".
Lol! Have you ever worked with Zinsser BIN?
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow Nope. I have a quart of 123 and have gone through a gallon and a half of Gards for sizing walls before wallpapering. My next Zinsser purchase will be the Triple Thick exterior primer before I paint the garage door, the front door, some shutters and various other trim with Some Valspar Duramax I bought at Lowe's.
Hi
Ok great! Let me know after you work with the Zinsser Peel Stop Triple Thick Binding Primer? Aren’t you supposed to use Zinsser Shieldz for the wall covering primer Sealer?
Russ
Who has 2 days to wait for primer to dry. I’ve found that BIN will bond to anything and dries fast and ssnd easy
Hi Gary-
Yes, your right! BIN is the Best! Have you tried the Synthetic BIN?
Russ
To be fair, stixx is only guaranteed in stock, un-tinted form.
Can be tinted with up to 2 fl. oz. of Benjamin Moore® Gennex® colorants
or Universal colorants per gallon.
@@RussOlinatzPaintShow many Benjamin Moore distributors won’t tint it anymore, colorant degrades the adhesion. There’s no reason to be tinting it, it’s an adhesion primer.
@@ryane6719 How do you know many Benjamin Moore Distributors won't Tint it anymore? It says right on the can that its Tintable.
This music gives the weirdest feeling. I feel like someone got drowned in the worst primer on this test. 😅
Thanks for sharing that!
Russ
You put a thicker layer of Benjamin Moore
I thought I rolled it out even like the other 3 paints!
Damn music lol
Good?
To be fair, you didn’t sand very well and here you used the stix primer
Hi Juan
Thanks for your comment! I sanded and used a Liquid Sander to promote adhesion! I used 4 primers, and they all did a great job! Don’t u think?
Russ
Sorry, that was type-o. What I meant to say is you didn’t mechanically sand well on the spot where you painted with the stix. Look over the video yourself and you will see.
Yes I just used a sander to create a mechanical bond before using a liquid sander to dull, clean, and soften the surface. They all performed great!
Russ
@RussOlinatzPaintShow oh!! I see his point. You did not hit the top 3 inches of your sample board with the palm sander, except for one quick swipe towards the end. P😊
That said, the 123 is hot garbage as far as primer goes. I would say the same for any waterborn primer. The BIN gets great reviews. I use CoverStain.
The Ben Moore Underbody is great but takes to long to dry.
Yes thank you for sharing that. I also like cover stain, but they recently changed their formula. Have u tried the new stuff?
this was painful to watch
Please Explain?
Thanks.
Thanks!