Man I was so lost about what everyone on the internet had to say for beginners. You made it super easy to understand and easy for a hands on person like me to sit down and watch a full video! Subscribed and will definitely watch more content!
Due to last season’s Hurricane Ida, home renovations forced us to live in our Garage for 8 Months. My white truck had to stay outside for those months. Finally when Renovations were 95% complete (is it ever 100%?) my 2012 Tacoma was spotted like an Old Dalmatian. After a deep strip wash, and clay barring, a compound was a no brainer followed by a polish (Meguiar’s products locally available) before waxing. It came out nice following Josh’s excellent advice and teaching. Another great production Josh
Just did Sonax ultimate cut, Sonax Perfect finish, then CarPro Essence, followed by ceramic coat then griots 3-1 ceramic spray as a topper. Maybe a little overkill but Outcome was very good.
I just used turtle Wax compound from Walmart, I tried it on the top of my truck, it did a great job for me, especially since the truck didn't look great and it was my first time ever used compound, my big mistake was not using polish afterwards, I didn't see it on the shelf so I used TW wax , it looked better after the compound. I'm going to redo it your way. Thank you for sharing this video.
I have the C4 and P4. They are water based so that’s why the flashing out happens. I usually only do 2 passes of each and they turn out similar to the turtle wax for me. I either use the griots boss pads or the Hexlogic pads from CG
Cg compounds work fine but you follow the directions like their videos tell you. You gotta have the pad conditioner spray with cg for it to work good then the pad won't dry out super fast or the product
The Chemical Guys C4 and P4 is meant to be applied with the Hex Pads. They dissipate heat very well and can assist in the problem you were facing. That is why they also strongly advise the pad prepper i forget the name.
@@renogunzddragon1900 you could … if the pad is dry what I’d do is whatever polish ur gonna use I’d do circles on the pad with it and then lightly rub it in with ur finger so it doesn’t splatter everywhere .. after that should be good to go
I was just looking to do a decent once over on our 11 year old vehicle we were gifted from my mom and it's never had anything but hand or automatic car washes. Thanks for the amazing display of side by side.
I'm a novice. I was thinking of going with McGuires compound and polish rather than the 3D , but trying to save money and time. I will take note from u. U did well.
Earned a sub from me. I’m a DIY guy in everything and auto detailing is by far the most difficult to find a TH-cam guy that will get to the point and make it simple. Thank you!
I personally love the P4 and C4 but I am very surprised to see the hazing like that. I don't recall having that issue ever. I use a white pad (from CG) for the C4 and a blue or green (from CG) for the P4 and I always have perfect results.
from CG own video , they use an orange pad with C4 and white pad with P4 th-cam.com/video/1vShcnfAfyY/w-d-xo.html , I followed that on my C63 and got hazing was not happy
Half way in to the video and loving this types of in depth vids. Love that you mentioned playing with the pads and liquids (ex. Polish on a compounding pad and vise verse) Yes to the Depth gauge and seeing how much you can relatively speaking could bring down a clear coat.
THANK YOU! for giving us the answer to the title question right at the beginning and the choice of watching further. I was so taken aback by your integrity that I watched to the end, liked and will be watching your videos first in the future. I would like to see a video on depth of shine measurement.
The pad conditioner from CG is a no-go for me! I used it on three pads before I realized it was drying them out. It dried out the pads so severely that each one started flaking and coming apart from dry rot. I used two additional LC pads that were the same age and primed both with a spritz of Duragloss DG 923 detailer. No dry rot! Stay away from the CG pad conditioner.
I was gonna say the same thing..but I have found that when I used V36 it still breaks down and dries out kinda quick even with their pad conditioner. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks alot. Straight on point. Just the video i needed today. I just DIY today with bowden's all in compound and polish on a 2000 corolla. It didnt remove all the scratch marks. So now i am going to test the maguires cutting compound and see if the scratch marks disappear.
I have found that the location has a lot to do with how different products work. For example ; A car by the cost and a car in the mountains and a car on the desert will require different products to be efficient. Sorry ! One size does not fit all in this industry. It depends on where you're standing. The good news is that they will all work if used in the right place & environment. Thanks Josh ! Your video will help people make that important choice .
The CG doesn't seem to have a long working time like other brands. I find that if you spritz the pad with some pad conditioner before and during the working time it makes a world of difference.
Same, use C4 & P4 often will use with recommended pad conditioner that will definitely allows for extended work time, also don’t get the flashing, never had the haze. Always has finished very nice
Because polishing/buffing ...etc is quite different then just sanding aka moving from coarse to fine grain sandpaper. Because its not like there is an easy way to measure chemical solutions abrasiveness you got to trust the bottle or try it out on something first before using it on your main object. Where as sandpaper is pretty standard in terms of abrasive numbers 220 ,...etc. Anyway good video and yes i do see that compounding and polishing makes a difference if you got bigger problems in your clearcoat or paint then just polishing only.
Id stay away from McGuire's products. Every compound and polish I used from them was horrible it looked very good when finished BUT the next day it would leave white powder behind everywhere with streaks and yes the car was parked where no direct sunlight was hitting it and yes it was less than 80 degrees outside and yes I used a correct amount of it and yes I wiped off immediately after using and yes I worked from panel to panel. And it still left a horrible white haze which was impossible to remove.
Really good vid Josh. With ALL of the wretched excess of detailing products and brands out there [most of it solid] it is good to see you use some standbys that have well known names, are readily available at a brick & morter on a Saturday morning and are considered to be generally reliable. Imo these are generally considered to be solid driveway detailer go-to's for solid results. Although [as a driveway detailer] I lean towards TW products, one cannot deny just how good Meguiar's compounds and polishes are. Well presented cause and results here... Shine on you crazy diamond!
huh...pondered this this morning on a prestine 2010 car...Ultimate polish vs Ultimate compound. I just went with Ultimate Compound (kind of best of both worlds?)...and that was fine. then followed with Seal and Shine TW
Great video Josh! Just what I was looking for. I’m about to tackle my first car and it’s similar to this panels paint condition. I’m still confused about when to use a one step polish and which pad to use the one step with , compound pad ? Microfiber pad? Would love to see a video on that. Great info as always though 👍
The only thing your missing with Chemical Guys is they ALWAYS compound & polish using their pad conditioner to add moisture , so my guess is you would get the clarity they do if you used the conditioner they sell along side with it. Just my 2 cents
3D ONE doesn't nor contain diminishing abrasives. It cuts with an aggressive pad, and polishes with a polishing pad. 3D Speed contains an abrasive load (10% cut, 20% polish, 70% acrylic and montan wax protection). I used those Turtle Wax abrasives in 2008 and they were actually very nice! Nice cut from the compound and finishing from the polish. I remember them being very easy to work with, from application to wipe off. I'm mostly using 3D abrasives, but I still really enjoy the Meguiar's M110, M205, M210, Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. Probably because I have so much experience with them.
@RZA77 You might be the perfect candidate for Jescar Medium Polish. I do a lot of one step services with it. It cuts better than 3D ONE and finishes same or better most times. Ultimate Compound can cut hard or soft by changing pads and technique. With Ultimate Compound you can stop buffing at any point in the application cycle without any detriment to product performance. Meguiar's M205 as another that's has a surprising amount of cut potential but it's a finishing polish. Finally Ultimate Polish is another product I've used extensively for one stepping. It can deliver some cut and has always left me a great finish.
@@danlc95 Perfect man , I appreciate the help. I am going to pick up a paint gauge tester to see how many millimeters I have in my paint. It’s a 2004 bmw 530i , black. I had some cloudyness in the paint and got it out , tried to maintain it with 3d epoxy but that only lasted several months and it’s returning again. I definitely don’t want to do a paint correction again because I’m worried about going through the clear. If I buy this tester and I get 80-100 microns in areas , I should definitely not use a cutting compound right ?
if you do another test would love to see how adams stacks up against meguiars i personally love they way adams compound and polish come out keep up the great vids thanks
As a novice I had great results with the Adams 2 step correction compound with blue pad and polish with white pad . My friend was very happy with results
Compound is one thing /polish is to bring the glossy Shine out on your car. Compound is removed oxidation on the paint. Compound. /. Polish is not the same thanks 😂😮
I do Meguire's 110M for compounding first then if need be I follow up with Adams polish then seal with 3D ceramic wax, takes a while but results are insane.
3D speed and one have been my go to for my business. My next pick up is griots FCC. Heard that one is great. Shine supply is also getting great reviews and I've spoken to Jared at Carglo and know they have some heat
I was wondering, what can you do when you leave a polish sitting for some time and when you’re going to use it it all watery and you can shake all you want but no change.
Great video! +1 on Meguiars products! I used the M210 Polish by itself a couple months back to polish my new ride before applying a glaze, sealant and wax. A nice upgrade from the M205.
@@RahzAlGhul I used a glaze, sealant and wax from Chemical Guys but wasn't impressed and haven't used a glaze or sealant since then. Nowadays I use CarPro HydrO2 & Reload and very pleased.
I wash and blow dry car in between each 4 step phase adds time but I notice a difference in white and black over other colors when not washing and drying
good information on which to use... question? how much pressure do you apply with the buffer... is it just spreading the compound/ polisher lightly or firm? Thanks in advance ... I am having trouble with my Black Nissan which I cannot get it to where it was when I was impressed by the shine and ended buying the car....Great video!!!!
Thanks for this and all your other videos. I'm starting to get some clarity (HAHA, see what I did there?) on when to use which products. I'd love to see you do a sort of work flow chart. Kind of a "If it like this, Then do That" video. After watching so many videos it seems there are no straight answers. Mostly due to the paint's starting point and the expectations of the user. Obviously if you're going for a fresh start you're going to start with a strip wash to get all the other polishes and waxes off the surface, then inspect the surface and determine if it needs claying. Then determine if it needs compounding or just polishing. This, for me, is the point where it gets confusing. Let's say I've got the imperfections out, do I use a glaze, sealant, wax, Si02 protectant and in what order. At this point I feel like I'm going down the rabbit hole. There are so many product in each of these categories that make very similar claims. Anyway, thanks for the videos and all the info.
Great video quick and to the point, also used all three products and Meguiars is awesome, used Chemical bros and was happy with the polish on my single stage paint
Would love to see a video with paint depth gauge. I think it important because I have a feeling people are over correcting and removing too much paint since more people are machine polishing because of YT videos.
I just did a range rover with that same chemical guys and I did not have that issue, it only hazed when I worked it too long and I was in the blazing heat of south Mississippi. Idk I just wanted to try the product and it did well for me. I used my M15 pro and got it done, I had to compound and polish the whole car, I used the maxshine pro high foam pads and it only hazed if I worked it too long, but you can get the haze out of there with a quick run of polish. Im new to this so maybe this was beginners luck. Lol
Applying these chemicals (compound and polish) is the fix permanent or is it like wax where you apply it and it looks great, then it fades later? I always wondered if compound is permanent or not
Hey josh! Liked the video but was wondering why you did t use the 3D polish compound in one? I wanted to see how it compared to meguiars and turtle wax.
Hey it’s Jo. I’m new and just wondering if you’re available to use a paint gauge. That would be nice whenever you are able and available to do it for your fans😊
Newbie DIY-er here who needs help. So I just finished repainting a portion of my car's bumper, also done wet sanding it. It looks nice but it's not glossy in contrast to the other panels. Do I achieve that glossy reflection by doing these steps or is there a different step I should do?
ya i was curious have polishing equipment and realize there different types of pads you can get like terry cloth , foam pads , wool pads ...etc. So i am curious when you use one over the other. Seems like your testing with only foam pads do you ever like using the other types.
Great instructions Thank you! I use m105 and m110 with m205 from Maguair’s it works great. Can you tell me the difference m105 vs m110? I bought a MaxShine 15 and mini polish and love them because of you Thx
I’m new into this business and I have done a few cars but I old like to know the best polisher for a beginner. I ordered the Ldhthop polisher off Amazon but after watching your videos I don’t know if I should use this one on my car or return it for the max shine as you suggested. Also I did get the Meguiars polish and compound but mine is a 205 ultra finish polish. I’ve used the other meguiars that u have used and just would like to know the difference.
I’m curious on your thoughts on meguiars ultimate polish and ultimate compound ? Do you think I would get good results with swirl marks and light scratches vs the meguiar m110 and the m210 .. Thanks
And the other question is i only ever wax cars with these polishing tools to give a quicker way to put on wax and remove it. Havent come across the need to fix the clearcoat on cars yet. Then and only then would resort to compounds/polishing solutions. But i am also curious why not just use bare pads of different types. Do you have to use chemical solutions on polishing pads when polishing??? Does it not work well or damage the car clearcoat/paint if you didnt apply compound/polish solutions on the pads first??? Maybe you could do a video on that explaining this confusing aspect. As is polishing done from the abrasiveness of the pad , or the abrasiveness of the chemical used on the pad , or both ???
If you buff dry with just a pad and no polish/compound you will make the surface hazy. Most of the correction is actually done by the pad, the fluid keeps it cool to avoid damage and has very fine abrasives which can do some correction as well as finishing with a higher gloss.
My black car's bonnet was freshly painted by the company because of a defect. After coming home I noticed that the bonnet was filled with swirl marks probably because of the compounding. So should i go for compounding now or just polishing??
Hi Josh..thanks for your input and time making this video. I would of liked to see if you did a section on the panel using 1500 wet rub and polishing to see if there was a difference..cheers
I have a 22 WRX. It spends it’s time off in the garage. I had the dealer paint stuff put on. Not that happy with it. I plan on stripping it and starting from square one. Am I doing any harm by compounding and polishing? It’s not my first paint correction. But it is on a new car. Thanks!!
And really when do you call it buffing as opposed to polishing. Both are very different then sanding and or grinding a surface. But buffing vs polishing seems like you could just call it a harder more coarse polishing = buffing but essentially its all polishing of different detail levels one more coarse then fine. Is my take away. And some seems to call it all polishing. Like compounding could be called the buffing stage and polishing solution the polishing stage i suppose. Anyway like to here your opinion on these question sometime.
HEEEEY. You should try Menzerna. Its pricey but boy would it make a great review video for someone like you. I actually like the stuff. Highly recommend you try it out.
love your vids and variety of videos you produce. I think i watched all your vids over my weekend. Building a foam cannon using your advise and bought a name brand one also. love the tips and tricks. much appreciated
I'd love to hear your thoughts on the Griots Garage G9. I see mixed reviews, the thing that's a plus for me is that my local Advance Auto Parts stocks it, if I had an issue.
So my question is, when applying either compound or polish the car does need to be I a cool area rite? Should not do this in the sun and the paint should be in a cool area?
Yea ideally you dont want to work in the sun cause the panel heats up and makes it harder to buff off. But, as a mobile detailer i do it all the time. you just have to work in smaller sections
Last week someone entering the parking spot, scuffed my car's bumper in the rear quarter. Multiple scratch spots where I can feel the scratch, other spots are scuff marks as if someone just rubbed the clear coat and it became dull/matte. No experience and no tools. If I try rubbing compound do you think it might help take off some clear coat and level the scratch? After that I can use polish compound and touch up paint.
It's funny that you mention the Chemical Guys stuff because I'm in almost the exact same boat. I don't shit on many Chemical Guys products because even if they're duplicates of duplicates in a huge bloated product line, they're usually at least some what able to do what they say. The big exception to that though has been the C4 compound, I had such a miserable time with it I didn't even try the P4 polish. It's the strangest behaving compound I've ever used. No matter how much I used or how little, or what pad I used and how much it was or wasn't primed, I couldn't get it to stop spraying everywhere anytime I got above a speed of 3 or so. I know it's incredibly odd and could have just been a bad batch or something like that but it was the most mind boggling thing to see something continually revert to such a liquidy consistency
@@billyschannel997 yeah I definitely wouldn't be comfortable using it on certain paints even if it performed great. Now that I think about it that's part of why it was so odd, it was super liquidy and somehow still a pain to remove
Hey josh i just picked up the 3d one and ruoes foam yelloe and white pads. Looking to do a 1 step on a black car. Do you recommend using the yellow or white pad? Should i maybe pick up a blue foam pad? The car is pretty scratched up its an 01 lexus.
Honestly, when I'm just doing a polishing on a car that isn't mine I use the turtle wax because it's so cheap and almost impossible to mess up.. just use a damp microfiber to clean up... If you try to dry wipe the panel for clean up the turtle wax can be like glue so avoid that and you won't have an issue.... On my cars I use a much higher quality compound and polish just for efficiency and easy cleaning ... Turtle wax can get the exact same finish but it requires more work
I prefer g360 super fast by farecla and or rupes Da coarse for cutting, for buffing black g360 super fast finish (basically the same thing as that 3D1), and for polish i like rupes uno pure ultrafine polish should try those sometime
I feel like “it kinda works but not my favorite” should be chemical guys slogan 💀
Man I was so lost about what everyone on the internet had to say for beginners. You made it super easy to understand and easy for a hands on person like me to sit down and watch a full video! Subscribed and will definitely watch more content!
Would be interested in a video about different pad types and their functions/use
Would love that 🫣……. Recently subscribed and thankful
I agree, love to see the actual process instead of like this where it was jumpcut passed all the actual polishing
Me too. What are the wool pads used for? When do you use the microfibre pads? I heard they are aggressive and can put scratches in.
Due to last season’s Hurricane Ida, home renovations forced us to live in our Garage for 8 Months. My white truck had to stay outside for those months. Finally when Renovations were 95% complete (is it ever 100%?) my 2012 Tacoma was spotted like an
Old Dalmatian. After a deep strip wash, and clay barring, a compound was a no brainer followed by a polish (Meguiar’s products locally available) before waxing. It came out nice following Josh’s excellent advice and teaching.
Another great production Josh
Sonax Cut Max paired with Sonax Perfect finish to finish out are my favorite combo 80% of the time I’m doing a 2 step paint correction!!
Just did Sonax ultimate cut, Sonax Perfect finish, then CarPro Essence, followed by ceramic coat then griots 3-1 ceramic spray as a topper. Maybe a little overkill but Outcome was very good.
@@KosmicHRTRacingTeam as long as you’re not cutting more clear coat than you have to it’s never overkill especially if you get great results 👍
What pads are you using with the sonar 2 step?
I just used turtle Wax compound from Walmart, I tried it on the top of my truck, it did a great job for me, especially since the truck didn't look great and it was my first time ever used compound, my big mistake was not using polish afterwards, I didn't see it on the shelf so I used TW wax , it looked better after the compound. I'm going to redo it your way. Thank you for sharing this video.
I have the C4 and P4. They are water based so that’s why the flashing out happens. I usually only do 2 passes of each and they turn out similar to the turtle wax for me. I either use the griots boss pads or the Hexlogic pads from CG
Doesn’t happen with sonax, and it is water based as well. Cg compounds are not good.
Cg compounds work fine but you follow the directions like their videos tell you. You gotta have the pad conditioner spray with cg for it to work good then the pad won't dry out super fast or the product
@@otavioteixeira3207 I havent try c4 and p4 but totally agree with you on Sonax and I have to put Griots fast correcting as well
The Chemical Guys C4 and P4 is meant to be applied with the Hex Pads. They dissipate heat very well and can assist in the problem you were facing. That is why they also strongly advise the pad prepper i forget the name.
Was just about to say the same thing !! They strongly advise conditioning the pad also.
@@bekladner6811can i conditioning the pad by spraying mist of water towards the pad ??
@@renogunzddragon1900 you could … if the pad is dry what I’d do is whatever polish ur gonna use I’d do circles on the pad with it and then lightly rub it in with ur finger so it doesn’t splatter everywhere .. after that should be good to go
I was just looking to do a decent once over on our 11 year old vehicle we were gifted from my mom and it's never had anything but hand or automatic car washes. Thanks for the amazing display of side by side.
I'm a novice. I was thinking of going with McGuires compound and polish rather than the 3D , but trying to save money and time. I will take note from u. U did well.
I just polished my Black Infiniti qx 56 with the turtle wax hybrid…that shit is the truth!!!and I did the whole truck by hand no buffer 👍🏾👍🏾
Earned a sub from me. I’m a DIY guy in everything and auto detailing is by far the most difficult to find a TH-cam guy that will get to the point and make it simple. Thank you!
I use Meguiars Compound & it's just PERFECT!
I personally love the P4 and C4 but I am very surprised to see the hazing like that. I don't recall having that issue ever. I use a white pad (from CG) for the C4 and a blue or green (from CG) for the P4 and I always have perfect results.
I just did some correction on black Audi, and I didn’t have that problem either.
Did he shake the products well or were they past their "shelf life"? Would like to know
yeah it seems like the pads matter , just use the pads chemical guys recommends seems like they don't have these issues he had
from CG own video , they use an orange pad with C4 and white pad with P4 th-cam.com/video/1vShcnfAfyY/w-d-xo.html , I followed that on my C63 and got hazing was not happy
I've used both the CG's products you used in the video and had similar results. I might have to try out some of your suggestions.
I'm old-school and prefer 3m. Would honestly like to know your opinion. Thanks for the content
Half way in to the video and loving this types of in depth vids. Love that you mentioned playing with the pads and liquids (ex. Polish on a compounding pad and vise verse) Yes to the Depth gauge and seeing how much you can relatively speaking could bring down a clear coat.
Josh.... Min 5:45 YES absolutely please make a video of how much clear coat is removed with different pads including wool. Can't wait..Thx
THANK YOU! for giving us the answer to the title question right at the beginning and the choice of watching further. I was so taken aback by your integrity that I watched to the end, liked and will be watching your videos first in the future. I would like to see a video on depth of shine measurement.
Thanks so much! And I’ll look in to that
Chemical guys uses pad conditioner with the polisher that moistens the pads. Maybe that is why it seems dry.
The pad conditioner from CG is a no-go for me! I used it on three pads before I realized it was drying them out. It dried out the pads so severely that each one started flaking and coming apart from dry rot. I used two additional LC pads that were the same age and primed both with a spritz of Duragloss DG 923 detailer. No dry rot!
Stay away from the CG pad conditioner.
I was gonna say the same thing..but I have found that when I used V36 it still breaks down and dries out kinda quick even with their pad conditioner. 🤷🏻♂️
Thanks alot. Straight on point. Just the video i needed today. I just DIY today with bowden's all in compound and polish on a 2000 corolla. It didnt remove all the scratch marks. So now i am going to test the maguires cutting compound and see if the scratch marks disappear.
Stick with Meguiars. They will always be the number 1 trusted brand. Use Sylvania for headlight restoration as this is the number 1 product.
I have found that the location has a lot to do with how different products work. For example ; A car by the cost and a car in the mountains and a car on the desert will require different products to be efficient.
Sorry ! One size does not fit all in this industry. It depends on where you're standing. The good news is that they will all work if used in the right place & environment. Thanks Josh ! Your video will help people make that important choice .
Not a big fan of Chemical Guys. A bit overrated. Maguire’s seems to always get the job done. Great video
The CG doesn't seem to have a long working time like other brands. I find that if you spritz the pad with some pad conditioner before and during the working time it makes a world of difference.
Same, use C4 & P4 often will use with recommended pad conditioner that will definitely allows for extended work time, also don’t get the flashing, never had the haze. Always has finished very nice
Because polishing/buffing ...etc is quite different then just sanding aka moving from coarse to fine grain sandpaper. Because its not like there is an easy way to measure chemical solutions abrasiveness you got to trust the bottle or try it out on something first before using it on your main object. Where as sandpaper is pretty standard in terms of abrasive numbers 220 ,...etc. Anyway good video and yes i do see that compounding and polishing makes a difference if you got bigger problems in your clearcoat or paint then just polishing only.
Id stay away from McGuire's products. Every compound and polish I used from them was horrible it looked very good when finished BUT the next day it would leave white powder behind everywhere with streaks and yes the car was parked where no direct sunlight was hitting it and yes it was less than 80 degrees outside and yes I used a correct amount of it and yes I wiped off immediately after using and yes I worked from panel to panel. And it still left a horrible white haze which was impossible to remove.
Really good vid Josh. With ALL of the wretched excess of detailing products and brands out there [most of it solid] it is good to see you use some standbys that have well known names, are readily available at a brick & morter on a Saturday morning and are considered to be generally reliable. Imo these are generally considered to be solid driveway detailer go-to's for solid results. Although [as a driveway detailer] I lean towards TW products, one cannot deny just how good Meguiar's compounds and polishes are. Well presented cause and results here...
Shine on you crazy diamond!
huh...pondered this this morning on a prestine 2010 car...Ultimate polish vs Ultimate compound. I just went with Ultimate Compound (kind of best of both worlds?)...and that was fine. then followed with Seal and Shine TW
Great video Josh! Just what I was looking for. I’m about to tackle my first car and it’s similar to this panels paint condition. I’m still confused about when to use a one step polish and which pad to use the one step with , compound pad ? Microfiber pad? Would love to see a video on that. Great info as always though 👍
The only thing your missing with Chemical Guys is they ALWAYS compound & polish using their pad conditioner to add moisture , so my guess is you would get the clarity they do if you used the conditioner they sell along side with it. Just my 2 cents
Exactly right.
Thanks for starting out by explaining the basic difference between polish and compound.
Compounds and polishes are all a game to me it's all in how you use them I'm a meguiars guy the M100 hands down for the money the best in my opinion
3D ONE doesn't nor contain diminishing abrasives.
It cuts with an aggressive pad, and polishes with a polishing pad.
3D Speed contains an abrasive load (10% cut, 20% polish, 70% acrylic and montan wax protection).
I used those Turtle Wax abrasives in 2008 and they were actually very nice! Nice cut from the compound and finishing from the polish. I remember them being very easy to work with, from application to wipe off.
I'm mostly using 3D abrasives, but I still really enjoy the Meguiar's M110, M205, M210, Ultimate Compound and Ultimate Polish. Probably because I have so much experience with them.
what would you consider Meguirs Ultimate? I am trying to find something that wont cut that hard..
@RZA77 You might be the perfect candidate for Jescar Medium Polish.
I do a lot of one step services with it. It cuts better than 3D ONE and finishes same or better most times.
Ultimate Compound can cut hard or soft by changing pads and technique.
With Ultimate Compound you can stop buffing at any point in the application cycle without any detriment to product performance.
Meguiar's M205 as another that's has a surprising amount of cut potential but it's a finishing polish.
Finally Ultimate Polish is another product I've used extensively for one stepping. It can deliver some cut and has always left me a great finish.
@@danlc95
Perfect man , I appreciate the help. I am going to pick up a paint gauge tester to see how many millimeters I have in my paint. It’s a 2004 bmw 530i , black. I had some cloudyness in the paint and got it out , tried to maintain it with 3d epoxy but that only lasted several months and it’s returning again. I definitely don’t want to do a paint correction again because I’m worried about going through the clear.
If I buy this tester and I get 80-100 microns in areas , I should definitely not use a cutting compound right ?
I use the clear cut as a stand alone with a white hex pad only and get great results...orange or yellow hex cutting pads leave a cloudy haze
if you do another test would love to see how adams stacks up against meguiars i personally love they way adams compound and polish come out keep up the great vids thanks
As a novice I had great results with the Adams 2 step correction compound with blue pad and polish with white pad . My friend was very happy with results
Compound is one thing /polish is to bring the glossy Shine out on your car. Compound is removed oxidation on the paint. Compound. /. Polish is not the same thanks 😂😮
You use griot’s. Waxes Apply one. Time a ti leaves a shine.
I do Meguire's 110M for compounding first then if need be I follow up with Adams polish then seal with 3D ceramic wax, takes a while but results are insane.
I’d watch the paint gauge video, looking forward to it.
3D speed and one have been my go to for my business. My next pick up is griots FCC. Heard that one is great. Shine supply is also getting great reviews and I've spoken to Jared at Carglo and know they have some heat
Definitely, would love to see a paint Gage video
Thanks for the video... the side by side was great.. it has help me make my decision on polisher, compound and polish purchases.
Would love to see more polishing videos. Agree that 3D would be great to see. Along with a video of 1steps
I like your honesty in all your videos and you make it easy for my to pick up the right product, I enjoy your videos. Thanks Josh
Thanks for the quick response, Unfortunately I don't have the time to watch the whole video so Thank You for that, Dude.
I was wondering, what can you do when you leave a polish sitting for some time and when you’re going to use it it all watery and you can shake all you want but no change.
Great video! +1 on Meguiars products! I used the M210 Polish by itself a couple months back to polish my new ride before applying a glaze, sealant and wax. A nice upgrade from the M205.
What do you use for a glaze, sealant and wax?
@@RahzAlGhul I used a glaze, sealant and wax from Chemical Guys but wasn't impressed and haven't used a glaze or sealant since then. Nowadays I use CarPro HydrO2 & Reload and very pleased.
I wash and blow dry car in between each 4 step phase adds time but I notice a difference in white and black over other colors when not washing and drying
good information on which to use... question? how much pressure do you apply with the buffer... is it just spreading the compound/ polisher lightly or firm? Thanks in advance
... I am having trouble with my Black Nissan which I cannot get it to where it was when I was impressed by the shine and ended buying the car....Great video!!!!
So wich one do you recommend for a freshly painted car ? I'm working on my car ... thanks.
Thanks for this and all your other videos. I'm starting to get some clarity (HAHA, see what I did there?) on when to use which products. I'd love to see you do a sort of work flow chart. Kind of a "If it like this, Then do That" video. After watching so many videos it seems there are no straight answers. Mostly due to the paint's starting point and the expectations of the user. Obviously if you're going for a fresh start you're going to start with a strip wash to get all the other polishes and waxes off the surface, then inspect the surface and determine if it needs claying. Then determine if it needs compounding or just polishing. This, for me, is the point where it gets confusing. Let's say I've got the imperfections out, do I use a glaze, sealant, wax, Si02 protectant and in what order. At this point I feel like I'm going down the rabbit hole. There are so many product in each of these categories that make very similar claims. Anyway, thanks for the videos and all the info.
Great video . Meguiars has always been my fav . What light would u recommend? Like one you use to see all the imperfections ?
If you use the better Turtle Wax products you will get better results. NUFF SAID. MAD RESPECT FROM EAST LONG BEACH 💯
new at this, do I need to do a Wax after compound and polishing? I usually use liquid wax by meguiar
Great video quick and to the point, also used all three products and Meguiars is awesome, used Chemical bros and was happy with the polish on my single stage paint
Would love to see a video with paint depth gauge. I think it important because I have a feeling people are over correcting and removing too much paint since more people are machine polishing because of YT videos.
I just did a range rover with that same chemical guys and I did not have that issue, it only hazed when I worked it too long and I was in the blazing heat of south Mississippi. Idk I just wanted to try the product and it did well for me. I used my M15 pro and got it done, I had to compound and polish the whole car, I used the maxshine pro high foam pads and it only hazed if I worked it too long, but you can get the haze out of there with a quick run of polish. Im new to this so maybe this was beginners luck. Lol
When compounding do you have to polish next or can you just go straight to a wax?
Applying these chemicals (compound and polish) is the fix permanent or is it like wax where you apply it and it looks great, then it fades later? I always wondered if compound is permanent or not
Hey josh! Liked the video but was wondering why you did t use the 3D polish compound in one? I wanted to see how it compared to meguiars and turtle wax.
Hey it’s Jo. I’m new and just wondering if you’re available to use a paint gauge. That would be nice whenever you are able and available to do it for your fans😊
Newbie DIY-er here who needs help. So I just finished repainting a portion of my car's bumper, also done wet sanding it. It looks nice but it's not glossy in contrast to the other panels. Do I achieve that glossy reflection by doing these steps or is there a different step I should do?
ya i was curious have polishing equipment and realize there different types of pads you can get like terry cloth , foam pads , wool pads ...etc. So i am curious when you use one over the other. Seems like your testing with only foam pads do you ever like using the other types.
Great instructions Thank you! I use m105 and m110 with m205 from Maguair’s it works great. Can you tell me the difference m105 vs m110? I bought a MaxShine 15 and mini polish and love them because of you Thx
I’m new into this business and I have done a few cars but I old like to know the best polisher for a beginner. I ordered the Ldhthop polisher off Amazon but after watching your videos I don’t know if I should use this one on my car or return it for the max shine as you suggested. Also I did get the Meguiars polish and compound but mine is a 205 ultra finish polish. I’ve used the other meguiars that u have used and just would like to know the difference.
I’m curious on your thoughts on meguiars ultimate polish and ultimate compound ? Do you think I would get good results with swirl marks and light scratches vs the meguiar m110 and the m210 ..
Thanks
Would live to see a psint gage video, multiple mix n match polishes, pads, compounds as well as da vs rotary
What would you do to get rid of the haze after polishing? I thought you use polish to get rid of hazes. Thanks.
And the other question is i only ever wax cars with these polishing tools to give a quicker way to put on wax and remove it. Havent come across the need to fix the clearcoat on cars yet. Then and only then would resort to compounds/polishing solutions. But i am also curious why not just use bare pads of different types. Do you have to use chemical solutions on polishing pads when polishing??? Does it not work well or damage the car clearcoat/paint if you didnt apply compound/polish solutions on the pads first??? Maybe you could do a video on that explaining this confusing aspect. As is polishing done from the abrasiveness of the pad , or the abrasiveness of the chemical used on the pad , or both ???
If you buff dry with just a pad and no polish/compound you will make the surface hazy. Most of the correction is actually done by the pad, the fluid keeps it cool to avoid damage and has very fine abrasives which can do some correction as well as finishing with a higher gloss.
Yes please can you do a video of the paint dept gauge also keep up the good work love your videos
My black car's bonnet was freshly painted by the company because of a defect. After coming home I noticed that the bonnet was filled with swirl marks probably because of the compounding. So should i go for compounding now or just polishing??
Hi Josh..thanks for your input and time making this video. I would of liked to see if you did a section on the panel using 1500 wet rub and polishing to see if there was a difference..cheers
I came here seeking clarity. I now have clarity. Thanks
Awesome I’m glad it helped! Thanks
I have a 22 WRX. It spends it’s time off in the garage. I had the dealer paint stuff put on. Not that happy with it.
I plan on stripping it and starting from square one. Am I doing any harm by compounding and polishing? It’s not my first paint correction. But it is on a new car. Thanks!!
And really when do you call it buffing as opposed to polishing. Both are very different then sanding and or grinding a surface. But buffing vs polishing seems like you could just call it a harder more coarse polishing = buffing but essentially its all polishing of different detail levels one more coarse then fine. Is my take away. And some seems to call it all polishing. Like compounding could be called the buffing stage and polishing solution the polishing stage i suppose. Anyway like to here your opinion on these question sometime.
Glad to see you upload this. Man always gets into the nitty gritty.
Best way to find a great paint corrector.
Your da is moving really smooth. So what is causing mine to hop around while trying to polish or compound? My pad is pretty wet with product
what if you wet sand with 3000. what would be next? sand with 5000 then compound with wool pad? or what are your thoughts?
HEEEEY. You should try Menzerna. Its pricey but boy would it make a great review video for someone like you. I actually like the stuff. Highly recommend you try it out.
What do you feel is the best polish for a ceramic coated car with hard water stains?
love your vids and variety of videos you produce. I think i watched all your vids over my weekend. Building a foam cannon using your advise and bought a name brand one also. love the tips and tricks. much appreciated
Best explain video about 2 step paint correction my brother you are the best
I'd love to hear your thoughts on the Griots Garage G9. I see mixed reviews, the thing that's a plus for me is that my local Advance Auto Parts stocks it, if I had an issue.
So my question is, when applying either compound or polish the car does need to be I a cool area rite? Should not do this in the sun and the paint should be in a cool area?
Yea ideally you dont want to work in the sun cause the panel heats up and makes it harder to buff off. But, as a mobile detailer i do it all the time. you just have to work in smaller sections
So with an Aluminum painted trailer .040 ... Would you recommend Compound or Polish? I need to smooth out some scratches.
Do I have to microfibre wipe off compound before polishing or do I need to spray with iso and wipe clean?
Last week someone entering the parking spot, scuffed my car's bumper in the rear quarter. Multiple scratch spots where I can feel the scratch, other spots are scuff marks as if someone just rubbed the clear coat and it became dull/matte. No experience and no tools. If I try rubbing compound do you think it might help take off some clear coat and level the scratch? After that I can use polish compound and touch up paint.
It's funny that you mention the Chemical Guys stuff because I'm in almost the exact same boat.
I don't shit on many Chemical Guys products because even if they're duplicates of duplicates in a huge bloated product line, they're usually at least some what able to do what they say.
The big exception to that though has been the C4 compound, I had such a miserable time with it I didn't even try the P4 polish.
It's the strangest behaving compound I've ever used. No matter how much I used or how little, or what pad I used and how much it was or wasn't primed, I couldn't get it to stop spraying everywhere anytime I got above a speed of 3 or so. I know it's incredibly odd and could have just been a bad batch or something like that but it was the most mind boggling thing to see something continually revert to such a liquidy consistency
And when it’s on the paint it’s so hard to wipe off
@@billyschannel997 yeah I definitely wouldn't be comfortable using it on certain paints even if it performed great. Now that I think about it that's part of why it was so odd, it was super liquidy and somehow still a pain to remove
Hey josh i just picked up the 3d one and ruoes foam yelloe and white pads. Looking to do a 1 step on a black car. Do you recommend using the yellow or white pad? Should i maybe pick up a blue foam pad? The car is pretty scratched up its an 01 lexus.
Josh, I’d love to see how Meguiar’s Ultimate Compound works for you. I’m a new guy at this, would be great to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
What speed for compounding and which one for polishing?
Using off the shelf products is great, thanks Josh 👍😁
Any recommendations on how to get rid of overspray compound? My other panels feel caked on when I tried to run a drying aid.
How often do I need to clean the compound pad? Like maybe do a whole hood then rinse it out?
Would love to see a video with paint gauge if possible
Idk how late I am to this party but what would you guys recommend for super stubborn hard water spots?
Please help! Thank you.
Cg recommend a spray of water or there pad conditioner
Honestly, when I'm just doing a polishing on a car that isn't mine I use the turtle wax because it's so cheap and almost impossible to mess up.. just use a damp microfiber to clean up... If you try to dry wipe the panel for clean up the turtle wax can be like glue so avoid that and you won't have an issue.... On my cars I use a much higher quality compound and polish just for efficiency and easy cleaning ... Turtle wax can get the exact same finish but it requires more work
Great video bud, nice to see the effort of what it takes to get a good finished product!
I prefer g360 super fast by farecla and or rupes Da coarse for cutting, for buffing black g360 super fast finish (basically the same thing as that 3D1), and for polish i like rupes uno pure ultrafine polish should try those sometime