2013 HYUNDAI ELANTRA Clunk in the Steering. Coupler Replacement. You Fixed It
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ต.ค. 2024
- Step By Step of replacement of 2013 Hyundai Elantra Steering Coupler. This coupler has a high rate of failure and can be fixed in under 2hrs with only a $2.00 part, Saving you Hundreds in repair cost.
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DORMAN part Number 926-990
Stubby #2 phillips head screwdriver
6in #2 phillips head screwdriver
3inch 1/4 drive extension
10mm deepwell 1/4 drive socket
A Quailty T27 torx 1/4 drive
1/4 drive ratchet
14mm deepwell 3/8 drive socket
12mm deepwell 3/8 drive socket
Long long handled 3/8 drive ratchet
6in and 12inch 3/8 drive extensions
The 14mm bolt the more leverage you can safely get the easier to remove.
1/2 in frog tape. Have good luck with it not leaving residue
Pocket Screwdriver or that style flat blade. Dont use a pick
Thin Stiff Trim removal tool. I just used my favorite trim tool.
Lots Of Patients - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Extremely well done instructional video. I appreciate the way that you not only point out the location of every bolt and item, but you also demonstrate how to remove each one. I had a clear understanding of exactly what to do and how to do it thanks to the fact that you didn't just point stuff out, do a cut away, and then return showing it all removed. I look forward to seeing other instructional videos that you put out in the future. Keep up the good work and God bless you.
That you for the encouragement hopefully we can get back at it soon
i think the video was done poorly. But it one of the better one there is. It's useful tho.
@sanBastian123 we now is your chance to make a better one. Seriously I look forward to seeing your version. I'm betting it's gonna take more than that 100.00 camera from Tarche.
Just did this for the first time. 2.5hrs. Thank you! Some angles were a little disorienting, but this still helped a lot.
Few things for others, maybe I missed them in the video:
-literally disconnect everything off the column, including the tabs holding the harness.
-Remove the plastic air pipe on the bottom right with the 1 Phillips screw.
-when putting the two 12mm nuts to hold the column back, don’t tighten them all the way. When you go to slide the big 14mm bolt, grab the steering wheel and move it up/down/back/forth aggressively while pushing the bolt in and you’ll get it much quicker. Then tighten everything down.
Thanks for the video, hardest part was laying in the floorboard lifting the steering column into place, then realizing that your laying on the two 12mm nuts that hold it into place...
All the time happens more when I pull a dash
Bay far one of the most cleanest tutorials that I've ever seen and even a tools needed list? Amazing...
Incredible layout and essential notes given. Bravo!!!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Got a quote for $1000 from the neighbourhood mechanic. He advised to change ENTIRE steering column! I watched this video, and fixed it last weekend in 2 hours with a help of couple of friends. Can’t thank you enough
Glad all worked out...1000.00 wow even the dealership is only about 400.00
1000 CAD so close to 750 USD. Still, crazy!
My Mechanic told me I'd have to replace the whole Steering Rack!!!!.. i swore never to use mechanics anymore, unless it is a fix that involves a special tool that i can not lay my hands on
Only thing in this rack that should wear is inner and outer tie rods.
@@YouCanFixIt oh my! Didn't know this.. trying to replace the outer tie rods... but it's really stuck and i don't have the propane gas to heat it up.. so i put some WD40 for it to lubricate it overnight.. will try again this weekend... thanks man
I am going to do this swap in about 45 minutes after this appointment then I will let you know how it went…..OUTSTANDING video.
You are amazing, got mine done in 3 hours with these clear step-by-step instructions, now my steering is smooth. Saved me $600
Side note: taking the 14mm bolt out is a pain in the ass lol. Had to use a massive torque wrench. Putting it back in was worse.
Where did you get your part from
@@toochiedaniels9964 got it from ebay, just looked up the part number and it was the first thing that came up
Should be available thru Amazon or any parts store I give the dorman number in the beginning of video
Thanks for the video, I skipped a lot of steps, just took the 3 main bolts out of the column and unplugged everything from that rectangle box. Dropped enough to get the new coupler in kinda tight but it worked. Took about a hour!
Glad it helped
Excellent step by step video that worked great with no steps missing. Toughest part for me anyway was getting the long bolt with two washers loosen up, factory really had that one tight. Crazy that they could not design the coupler out of nylon or another material that would not turn to goo, that was all that was left of the one I took out.
Glad it helped and it worked out
Took 4 hours and a lot of rewinding but it’s done! Probably won’t take everyone that long but I struggled with the main bolt. Had to use a 15mm socket that connected to a screwdriver handle so I could make myself a breaker bar. Anyway. Thank you for your video.
Glad it worked out if u plan on doing more repairs in the future get ya good 1/2 and a good 3/8 flex head the icon brand is pretty good we have quite a few techs that use them
Nice video! Camera angles were a bit challenging but understandable due to the location. Thank you for your time and dedication to teaching DIY!!!!
Thank you for the comment and hope the repair saved you some 💵
I be making beats out mine. Clank clunk the break lights stopped working again in my trunk for the millionth time. A recall hyndai said they fixed but everyone know they lying
welome to modern engineering
I had to buy an aftermarket tail light assembly for the right rear on my 2011 elantra, due to many brake like and tail light issues
Thought you was rhyming too clunk trunk 😅
Did this while watching your video step by step and I wanna say thank you so much. Also that 14mm bolt was the biggest pain out of the whole life installation
That bolt always is
Excellent, step-by-step, review of the process. You helped me through a few difficult steps such as separating the steering wheel cover and removing the brake sensor. I likely would have snapped of the sensor if you didn't provide the removal process here.
Thank you glad you where able to remedy the click
Jesus and I thought changing the rear calipers, rotors, and pads was hard. There are so many wires!😂
Well I'll just keep watching your video till its committed to memory. Thats how I learned to do my brakes. Watched videos for a month every day. One video I had on repeat at work all the time.
Got it done
Took me 1.5 hours
Would have been quicker but putting that long 14 bolt back in and getting it to line up was the longest and hardest part.
It fixed it tho 😃
Well it looks like I’m about to start this endeavor. My 2013 only has 50k on it. Wish me luck.
Extremely well done tutorial. Video. I just found out that my vehicle has an extended warranty on that particular part. 2012 hyundai elantra mdps coupling. I’ll give it a try at the dealer. Wish me all good luck. For the ones that have a recall FYI recalls don’t have expiration date and also are transferable to new owners
Yes there is you can scroll back in comments for warranty periods not all are covered though
Thanks for the video, very easy to follow along. Fixed my wifes car in about 2 hours using this video!
Glad all worked out thank you for the comment
Good video, thanks. Its worth noting how difficult it is to get the column lifted up and getting the tab back in that slot. Hardest part of entire job! Also, I was worried bc my steering wheel was misaligned with the actual wheels at the end, but it corrected itself during test drive. Took quite a few hours, but its all working as it should. Thanks!
Glad you where able to correct.
Perfect video, helped immensely! My 2012 Elantra has over 165,000 miles so the recall was no good for me. Watched the video a couple times and did pop back twice to double check things. Took me about 2 hrs 45 min to complete. I had an aftermarket remote start installed on mine and had hooked the battery back up before buttoning everything up just in case I missed something. The ground wire for the remote start has to be connected before hooking the battery back up so that threw me for a second but it's all good once I figured that out. Thanks!
Glad all worked out
Is there a recall out there for this? I have a 2013 Elantra and my car is doing the same thing.
Depends on milage and time all it takes is a phone call to find out
@@danagrady1028They extended the warranty on that issue but didn't do a recall. Mine started clunking just after passing the mileage limit for the warranty extension.
Very well made video with detailed instructions. The way you show everything visually as you do each step is so awesome. Thank you for such a great how to video! I know that it's not easy holding a camera while doing a repair in such a tight spot. 😂
Glad we could help please help us and hit that subscribe button....
great video….my 2013 Elantra has 250000 miles…can drive it without fixing it
Thanks again
Great video! I wish I seen this earlier. I took my 2013 Elantra to the dealer and they charged me $684 to do this same job 😢.
Good luck to everyone performing this same replacement. Hopefully you follow this great video and save yourself some $.
wow what a ripoff.
I’m facing this right now. $690!!
Yup. Same for me. $600 and after they charged me $700 for a cam shaft sensor that turned out to be $100 and about 5 minutes of work, I said hell no, that’s what TH-cam is for. Wish me luck
@@michaelmaderich5370 what are symptoms that you’re having to replace a cam shaft sensor?
Stalling, check engine light, low in oil will cause the timing from cam and crank to become misaligned and also throw the code. This is the most common failure. All current manufacturers will burn up to 3 quarts of oil between an oil change hyundai/kia seems to be higher than normal and this leads to there high engine failure rates. Have the code diagnosed first it may only be low in oil. Or it could be worn guides. But make sure to check oil often
Great step by step but definitely for the more advanced do it yourselfer. I’ll just have to live with it!
You can do it dude. Just study the video and watch other videos on it.
Good video but all you have to do is unbolt the PDC swing it out of the way, unplug one connector to column. Take out two nuts securing column and main bolt rear of column swing sideways to access coupler housing bolts. Remove and replace coupler dampener. This is a 25 minute job from start to finish and I charge $300. My record time is 17 minutes. I’ll be doing a video shortly 🙌🏼
Go for don't forget there are 4 different versions of this system
There is an extended warranty (TSB) for this problem with the MDPS steering coupler 10 yrs/
100k miles. I just got my 2013 Sonata fixed for free by the dealer. Also for 2015 - 2017 Sonata the warranty has been extended to 15 yrs /150k miles. The warranty covers original and subsequent owners. Just do a search for Hyundai TSBs.
Also that warranty only applies to the original owner in most instances
@@YouCanFixIt
In my case, I bought the car preowned and the TSB specifically said it covered original and subsequent owners.
my eps light turn on and the sound is barely noticeable, but its there! thanks my dude
Doing one next week. Customer didn't want to take to Hyundai (3 months to complete) Lol gotta love the dealer. I'll have it done before lunch after looking at your video. Thanks man and by the way nice camera!
3 months, I had a dealership put a new engine in mine (warranty) in less time. Most of that time was waiting for Hyundai to approve the warranty replacement.
Small tip for anyone: if you’re having trouble fitting into position while replacing this part, simply remove the driver seat! Only 4 bolts and 2 connectors hold it in place, removing the headrest makes it easy to remove from the car. Now you have 3 times the working space
Good tip there
Good detail, but that might also be a drawback, as the close-in shots make it hard to identify relative locations in the scheme of things. This does not look like a job for a beginner, and while I need to have this done now for my 2013 Elantra, given the pitfalls identified I think I'll take mine into the shop. Thanks for your take.
Sure am glad I removed the positive terminal off the battery before I started this... my wifes car has a damn airbag under the steering wheel! That woulda sucked! Other than that, this video got me through the process very quickly and easily!
When you unplug it it shorts the system and will not deploy. If your worried I would unhook but now you need a scan tool to recalibrate the steering angle sensor
Was able to do it with only unbolting the fuse box and unbolting the motor. Didn't have to drop the rack or remove any electrical connectors. Snap on part number thlf72 and a t30 1/4 is needed
Some you can do that others the position of the motor makes it a no go there are about 3 different configurations I believe thank you for watching
@@YouCanFixIt i figured. I just got lucky with this one
Which year and submodel was your Elantra? currently have a '12 Limited with this same part needing a replacement. thanks
@@CripplelovesWolly I think it was a 2012 or 2014 sonata
awesome video! best one ive seen! quick question. i have a 2013 sonata that when i go over bumps there is something rattling in the steering column. i think it is this coupler but not sure. mine doesn't really make the clicking sound when turning the wheel like so many others have. could it be something else? thanks!
I would have your sway bar links looked at sounds like that's your issue
That long 14mm head bolt with the two washers is really putting up a fight. Hopefully there’s no specific torque specs when I put it all back together lmao
eff it's impossible to take off 😠any advice?
Try 1/2 in drive with a longer handle
Well, first of all, thank you so much for the video! Can you comment the tool list you need to do this job? Just want to know if I have everything
If you glance in the description it should be there
Thank you for this. I’m getting ready to do my sons 2013 Elantra GT hatchback.
Do I really have to unplug all those connectors? Thanks again.
Yes the steering column will not come down properly and will actually damage things don't forget the brake switch removal. It looks more intimidating than it is.
Is this a common problem with this car? And what can happen if I don’t get it fixed?
Thanks for the video
Very common at some point the two pieces of metal inside the motor area will grind down losing power steering. The actual steering will be there but it will get hard to turn. It's a 50cent part that should have been done better
You’re a real one
Thank you very much super useful
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks. You saved me $$$$$!
Glad all worked out and you could...especially during the holidays
I drive a Hyundai Veloster , and it is doing exactly the same issue… I’m assuming the way to fix it is the same way for the ELANTRA , correct
Pretty much the same system...the steps may be similar but the overall system is the same
Thank you so much!
Did anyone else think it was a bad steering rack at first
Awesomevtutorial, very well explained
Thank you hope it helped
My boss/friend needed help replacing the rubber coupler, i was there at the final process. He accidentally took the steering wheel off in the middle. We got everything back together and the wheel is slightly to the left. How can we align it center without taking out the back bolt towards the firewall?
@Ridestereo765 there are only 2 ways the intermediate shaft can be installed. I would recommend an alignment and recalibration of the steering angle sensor. I remove and replace the entire column on a regular basis and have not had the steering off center just from removal. More than likely the off center was already there and now that everything is tight it is showing more prominently. If it where off that bad from repair you would have both airbag lights and steering angle lights on.
wow cool,,,dealer wants about 550 to fix,,,you would thing they use some kind of metal part for this instead of plastic,, tnx for video
Thank you for watching.
@@YouCanFixIt are you in New York
@@rafififi1691 no I am not
I saw another video on this and he advised we disconnect the battery first, and warned about the airbag going off. Do you agree? I would like to use your steps because this is my exact model
Always disconnect the battery if you are unsure.
The dealership is trying to charge me $2,500 for this. Thank you.
I have a 2013 Elantra coupe. Is that identical? Does that long bolt go in after the two mounting bolts for re-assembly? So it just basically just holds up steering column?
There is a hook it needs to go in watch the video it shows it
I need this exactly how you did now eps light is on and trac control light any Suggestions?
Double check your connectors at the fuse box and the epc controller. Your steering angle may need to be recalibrated. Any shop with scan tool from last 6 years should be able to preform.
Update: I bought a new EPS motor and it fixed the issue! Installed it and cut car on, the steering completely unlocked and now it’s driving like a champ!!!! Give it a try peeps! Used motor on eBay was like 60$
This should be under recall like the Sonata.
Not enough lawyers driving the Elantra.
They are under a 100k warranty not a recall
@@YouCanFixIt I'm working on this right now with your help, thanks a ton!
@@YouCanFixIt and yep you right about warranty!
I am mechanically inclined but I am ignorant about something can just ordinary mechanic do this job not a specialized Hyundai dealerships
Yes and it's really not that bad of a task.
Great video! Isit safe to drive the car with it being like that?
You can drive like that but the cluck you hear are 2 pieces of metal against each other. Eventually wear and failure is going to happen.
@@YouCanFixIt Thank you !! I would have done it my self but have little time have no choice to bring it to mechanic
@@Utoobyourself hopefully there not to backed up
Did the steering wheel also shake when u hit a certain speed lit ?
No that would be a bad tire or balance or loose steering components
In case anybody is wondering: My local Hyundai dealer charges $521 for this replacement. The part alone is only $2.77
That would be not far off what my shop gets for the repair.
@@YouCanFixIt I just changed mine myself. I'm not a mechanic, it took me about 2 hours. Even if a pro took as long as I did, that would be charging about $250 an hour. I don't get why that's so expensive, for a repair requiring minimal skill and no specialized equipment and one cheap part.
You have to remember a repair shop has overhead insurance employees that cost a lot hence why I make videos but also not everyone has the time or mabey confidence to tackle this or any other job for that matter. I make the videos for those that might wish to try . As far as shops there, ultimately there to make a profit just as any business should be.
@@YouCanFixIt Yeah I understand that part, but charging $500 an hour to change a part when typical shop charges are around $125 an hour seems a little excessive to me.
The book time is just under 4 hrs so they would ablut on target we charge 3 runs about 400 bucks
Nice video. Thank you.
I the same problem with my Hyundai Elantra 13. I want to if I can still drive it because I don't have a backup car at the moment. Thanks...
Unfortunately I can't tell you if it is safe or not. If you are in doubt use ⚠️
Thats lot of work I bought part my local garage do all that for 150 dols
@Tom Quinn Glad you where able to stop the click. Like I said if your not comfortable with the repair make sure to take it to a ase certified facility.
My car just started doing this. Man, this looks tough to do.
It's actually not that bad just looks more Intimidating than it is. But as I have said before if your unsure take it to an Ase certified repair facility. Doing it yourself could save you 300-600 depending on your part of the country for literally a .25 part replacement
Can you please tell me where to buy this part? Ty a lot
Ebay...Amazon...any auto parts store give them the part number in the description
Will the replacement wear out like the original part?
Yep
Nothing is forever friend 😢
I see mention of 2013 Elantra TSB that covers this repair at dealer but don’t find it online. How are you guys getting Hyundai to do this repair under TSB ?
It's not tsb it's under a mileage or customer satisfaction warranty they may or may not depending on those circumstances. You will have to contact dealer and see if it is covered
my car has 95k miles but was told by the dealer that the warranty had expired but a few(6) days past the 10 year warranty, are they correct?
The dealer makes there own warranty time limits 6 days past I would call the corporation and see if they would be willing to good faith repair
@@YouCanFixIt It actually worked, i’m getting it fixed next week since apparently they’re booked. Had to tell the dealer I had gotten a case number and extended warranty because they didn’t want to do the job.
@Jenny glad it worked out. Thank you for the reply.
It took me several hours and I thought that I fixed it. But a test drive showed the traction control light and no power steering. Any suggestions?
@thomasfitzkee9973 check your electrical connections you left something unplugged more than likely
@@YouCanFixIt You called it. I found a broken wire.
Please reply, coz im doing that kind of thing this Sunday :)
Thank you.
Kool let us know how it goes should be a simple process just be patient.
Hi! Did you fix your problem successfully? I think I am also having this problem with my Elantra. The shop wants to charge me 1000 CAD!
Where is the 14 mm head bolt located? There seems to be a bolt on the very top of the column.
Yep right at top base of column. Should be just before the hanger
Where to buy this new plastic ring?
Any part store or Amazon just Google hyundai steering coupler kit
I can’t find those screws that are behind the steering wheel. Are they #2 screw w 7mm head bc I can’t find those
Should just be #2 Phillips you may have a different model
Thanks for information . Does the replacing steering wheel coupler under warranty.?
I think most are covered under 100k warranty. But after that it's customer pay usually.
2012 Elantra Limited with this same issue, but I have a keyfob and not a mechanical key/ignition tumbler so how would I move the steering wheel after the battery's been unplugged for access to those three #2 screws with 7mm heads on the column? Should I just crack the three screws open just a bit, or even remove them completely, well before disassembling anything else and while the battery is still connected? Thank you for any input
I remove before I remove battery 🔋 power
Completed all the steps but once I came to the t27 screws they were screwed in way too tight wouldn’t budge.
Use an impact driver but they should be tight but not that tight. Depending on your geographic location it is possible to have them corrode into place
This is totally ridiculous. WHY would a safety item of this sort be made of cheap plastic. The dealers are ripping us off with a $550.00 charge to replace this. No more Hyundai's after this.
All manufacturers have some pretty extreme faults
I have a 2017 Hyundai Elantra and my steering wheel makes a grinding noise every time i turn and then the wheel gets stuck i have to turn off my car just so the wheel restart. Is this the problem? or am i looking at something else?
I think you have more steering gear failure. The usual noise is a somewhat loud Clunk when moves. I would bet that your worm gear ⚙️ is worn
@@YouCanFixIt do you know how much it would cost to repair? and how do i identify if this is the problem?
I would seek out an ase certified facility if you go to napa they can point you to a napa care care center they are more than likely certified repair facility. It's going to take some diagnostics that I cannot explain in text. Used racks are pretty reasonable in price but do take specific tools to calibrate when installed. The cost of the tool alone would outway the benefit of replacing yourself. Ad far as price this is relative to the are you live in I've seen labor rates across the country from 100 an hr to well over 250 on dealer level . Again seek out a napa care care store with good google ratings.
Is every connector different? Any risk of accidentally plugging the wrong connectors together?
Also, how can you make sure the steering wheel stays straight when removing and re-installing?
Connections are different and steering movement should go back into place when reinstalled. Sometimes a recalibration of center needs to be done. Only 1 in I would say 70 needs that
@@YouCanFixIt Thanks for the tips!
Thanks dude, I thought the rack n pinion were bad..
Is it safe to drive with this clunk? I'm out of town and would prefer to fix this when I'm home and have all my tools. Been driving on dirt roads and it started to rattle as well as we drove on
Unfortunately legal wise I cannot give safe or not safe. I will tell you it does not pass safety inspection in my state
Hello. I started to do this repair, and after I got the brake sensor out I went to take out the 14mm bolt. For me (and I've had some others try to help), the 14mm bolt wont budge no matter how hard I use the wrench. I am trying to turn it counter-clockwise.
Need more leverage try a longer ratchet
@@YouCanFixIt Thanks. Using a longer one was able to free it. Unfortunately when I got down to the T-27 torx's one of them had the head completely stripped, so I used a small drill bit and extractor to remove it. The problem I'm running into now is that I need a new T-27 Torx bolt to replace the one that I had to drill out, but no hardware store or even the hyundai dealership had them in stock.
@@seeweedcat7876 match the threads use I want to say it's 6mm x 1.0mm and use a regular bolt don't leave out
@@YouCanFixIt Thanks, I appreciate you for replying quickly. I couldn't find a torx head in town but was able to get one with the same length and thread, just a Philips head instead of a torx. Also, sorry to ask another question: After putting the back of the steering column back into the metal tab and putting the two bolts back I came to the 14mm big bolt. I've been trying to reinstall it, but it won't fit in the hole that it came out of. I've tried manipulating it to see if it needs a better opening but it still won't go in, it's like it doesn't fit.
@@seeweedcat7876 make sure it's in the hanger portion leave your other bolts loose fit while you wiggle in its just a little blind finesse but the key is push up slightly
same as 2012 i assume right?
Is it necessary to remove the connectors without dis connecting the negative terminal ?
Will the DTC appear if the connectors are removedd without disconnectingvthe negative terminal ?
Always disconnect battery negative any time working on a vechicle
Does it need any reset/re-program after it's done?
Occasionally it will need to be recalibrated this takes a scan tool to do and most reputable shops will be able to handle it
Does the position of the drive shaft at the floor board where the u joint matter is when you lower the steering column? Thanks.
I usually make sure wheel is straight and seat is all the way back and let it sit on floor.
When doing this, is it easy to plug a wire into the wrong port or are they shaped so they only fit with the right ports?
Plugs should only go into correct connections hard to mix up
@@YouCanFixIt okay thanks. Watching your video on repeat this morning
Kool the upper bolt is going to be very tight most of the time a longer ratchet or cheeter bar may be nessary
@@YouCanFixIt ive never met a bolt or lug nut that couldn't be defeated by an excellent swearing combo
I got to where i took out the brake switch but realized i didnt have time so i put everything back together. Next morming my tracking or tcs light on the dash came on and is staying on. Could this be from something i did?
Yes you may have damaged the brake switch or left a connection off
Bro saved me 700$ outta bs from auto shop mechanics who wanted money for labor use a 10mm 7mm and a 14mm and a screwdriver and it’s cake
How long does this take? Dealer says its about a 4 hour job and they want $750 for it, screw that.
I have done so many i average about 20min.
Wow four hours for pros to do that? I just did my own, took me 2 hours with never having done this before. I was quoted $521 from a Hyundai dealer. Bought the part from them for less than $3.
Glad you where able to save some 💰 🤑 💸 and thank you watching
I have no power steering after replacing the steering column. Any idea why?
Start by checking power grounds and signals communicate with computer and see if it able to send and receive data may have a bad controller
How much is the labor work for this if I have someone to replace mine?
300 to 700 depending on your geo location
Alot of work damn
how does the car behave on the road because of this?
Steering response is not 100% I would say with a 1/4 inch gap in motor assist but you still should be able to control
At 5:58 it looks like there is a plug that has nothing plugged into it. Can someone please confirm this? I have assembled everythinb back together, but could not find what goes into this plug.
At 5:58 is the power plug to the steering wheel control computer depending on your model this may be a different controller if you have unplugged items from your steering column then there should be a socket that it will plug into
@@YouCanFixIt thank you! I will look for it. I took the car for a test drive and realized that the steering wheel would not go back to center. Power steering is what must be missing!
Morning! I got everything back together-but now my air conditioning has no power😩 any ideas? Would you happen to know what plug that would be 🤔
@@rodneyzoo recheck you connections at fuse box and ignition switch you may have just blown the fuse
@@YouCanFixIt damn, I checked my fuses and they're all good. I wish I could share my google photo album, but the comment keeps getting taken down. Update:
I used a test light to test the fuses in the fuse box to under the steering wheel to the left.
Random ones worked fine, but the ones going to the AC and fan were not working.
How do I find out where the power comes from to those fuses?
After doing this I have an EPS and traction light. There's no power steering.
Have you ever heard of this?
Recheck your connections you may have left one loose or unplugged. It can happen occasionally you have to recalibrate but this sounds like power feed problem.
Did you find a solution? Exact same thing happened to me.
@thomasfitzkee9973 look at all connections. 1 connector was left on and got ripped. A single wire. Spliced it back together and it's fine.
@@RusselResthaven Thanks for the reply. I had the same thing and fixed it.
What size torx screwdriver do you need too remove the steering coupler from the motor behind the steering column?
It's a T27 thank you for watching please like and subscribe to help the youtube algorithm
i did mine and now my ac/heat don’t come on it don’t even light up and my windshield wipers won’t come on i disconnected battery before i did it pls help
Go back and make sure you connected all of your connections sounds like one is unplugged or not fully seated
Any mechanics in the Bellflower or Long beach area that will do this besides Hyundai? Thank you
Look up napa service centers make sure good google ratings will carry a 2 yrs nationwide warranty
@@YouCanFixIt thank you very much.
What is the name of the part called.
Steering coupler part number is in the first few minutes of video
Question, but first, thanks for this video, very helpful. Did you remove the steering shaft? I didn't see you remove it
No need to remove shaft if shaft is removed and allowed to turn could damage clockspring and will need recalibration to zero using specialized scan tool software
@@YouCanFixIt My mechanic did this , now he can't re center it.😰
@@christophersoprano-sculptor hmm if he did not undo anything it should have never changed the position. Only disconnected coupler or bad alignment will cause the steering wheel to be off center the calibration is for the steering angle sensor to know where the wheel is a d is done thru use of diagnostic scanner. Again the steering shaft should have never been removed.
@@YouCanFixIt I appreciate your feedback. Not sure exactly what was done.
Would anyone know why my steering is locked still, but I can still move the steering wheel and wheels? It’s like there is no power to my power steering motor now. HELP!!!
You either have a blown controller or it is unplugged start by checking the fuses to the system you can go to alldatadiy.com and subscribe for a year for your car for like 25.00 it's pretty much the factory manual
GREAT VIDEO!! poorly engineered!
Camera angle killing me
Anyone I can pay to get this done?
Go to Napa.com and look for a service center
Yikes.