2011 - 2016 Hyundai Elantra Steering Clunk FIX ( steering coupler replacement )
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- How to fix 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 Hyundai Elantra steering wheel clunk coupler.
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Thank you so much I can't believe you answered tonight. I did double check all harness and wiring. I'm going to try again tomorrow thank you. Do you think maybe I need some steering fluid.
Hey Bro, thanks for this video, do you have a part number for that bushing?
Cheers
Thanks for the video bro I'm going to do exactly this today. I did have a question though. My 2013 Elantra is stalling at 3000 rpms. It can go past that if I gas it hard enough, but it really only runs rough at 3k. Any ideas at all are welcome because I'm totally stumped.
Amazing, took it apart in 10 minutes. Mechanic shop said it’s small cheap piece but is 5-6 hours of labor. I’ll just do it myself now
Thanks for the helpful video Brian, just did this on my 2012 Elantra Coupe with next to no trouble. Car has no steering issues now and handles like a dream. Saved me tons of money and a trip to the shop
No problem, always nice to read comments like this!
HOW TO GET THE STEERING WHEEL BACK UP!!!!!
This was a very helpful video....up until I had to hang the steering wheel back up. He basically says just do the reverse. About killed myself trying to line up the horizontal bolt and just gave up as my shoulders were killing me. Over night, I figured out what to do. Pull the steering wheel off the bottom section. Then lift the bottom section only to line it up for the horizontal bolt. I used a 12" 2x4 to help me hold it up. Once I was able to start the horizontal bolt, I ran it down and tightened it up. Then you will have room to put the steering wheel back on (be sure to line it up so it's straight when you're driving). Then you'll be able to lift it up into the vertical bolts and start the nuts.
Did the very same thing. I could not get the entire thing back up. Then realized I could pull the steering wheel off. It was then fairly easy to first mount the back section with the horizonal bolt and then slide the steering wheel back in place. And yes be sure the wheel is horizontal with the wheels straight ahead.
Thanks for this tip. It helped a lot.
Yes, pull the steering wheel off. Just make sure you install it straight like the wheels or how the wheels are pointed.
@@user-rr9pm8pi5o I just started the two nuts that are close to the steering wheel. Not tightening them, but just enough to hold the whole thing up. From there I could maneuver everything in place with no problems.
Just finished up with this. Biggest pain like everyone else was getting the 14mm bolt back into place. My best tips for reassembly are to make sure you have someone helping you lift the column back up, way to heavy to do on your own. And use a phone camera when trying to line up the 14mm bolt. If you hold it at the right angle you can use it to see when the bolt holes line up and you don’t need to blindly struggle
I was able to get it back in by myself and I am old and feable. LOL. But yeah it was hard and I used my phone as well to get the 14mm bolt aligned. Its easier to adjust if you don't lock down the tilting column.
The 14mm bolt is giving me such a hard time I can’t get it to budge 😭 do you think it’s easier to remove the two top 12mm bolts first or no?
@@natenguerrero You mean to remove it? I had to go get a longer 3/8" dfive ratchet. 15 or 18" I think and it really took a lot of force to get it off.. Also, get a 6 pt 14mm socket instead of the more common 12pt. The 12pt was slipping off and starting to gall the head of the bolt. I could put a lot more force through the 6 pt socket.
Thank you sir I followed your video to the T and was able to save my self time stress and money . One thing to note is when putting the steering column back put the key back in to rotate the steering wheel in case it locks other than that I will buy this man a beer
I had the same issue n minus a couple finger nails 😂😂 but thanks man appreciate the video
Thanks for the video! That was to the point and super helpful.
Thanks for the video! Helped me save $ and learned something new!
No problem glad this video helped you 👊
Thanks for the video it was more helpful than identifix smh.
No problem glad this video helped 🤙
I guess it's time... watching your video on lunch, getting prepped to tackle this tonight. 10, 12, and 14mm. T-30. And a million Phillips screws, got it.
I've been dealing with the shaky wheel for years, because my girl _refuses_ to drive my Elantra GT Hatch with it slaking. Oh well. No big deal, amIrite?
But I'm taking it in to get a clutch, and might as well knock it out.
BTW, 236,000 miles and it's needed brake pads, 1 battery, and now a clutch. Not bad.
Wow 236k miles? Hope this video helped you out!
@@BrianBalatbat I appreciate all the help! Very grateful you put this out there for everyone!
Followed this video and it's very helpful. However, it's pretty challenging to get the steering column aligned to get the 14mm bolt back on. The column is heavy so it's best to get someone to hold it for you, and wiggle it, so you can get the bolt aligned and back on without having to hold the column at the same time.
I ended up taking the steering wheel off to make more space to align the column. However, after reassembly my steering wheel is turned to the left 90 degrees.
How do I fix this? Can I take the two 12mm bolt off, drop the column, take the wheel off and turn the column with my hand to align it back to center?
Anyone else run into this?
Question: I had a shop do this replacement for me (before watching this video). Before I took the car into the shop, my turn signal was working fine. It would spring back after turning. After driving off the lot with my car, I noticed the signal is not springing back. I called the shop as soon as they opened the next day and they were already trying to tell me that one thing is not related to the other. Watching this video it seems entirely possible that they could have jostled the turn signal or not connected something back up. Am I missing something? Again, the signal was working 100% perfect before I had the steering issue fixed. If they give me the old "we didn't do that", can I just show them this video as evidence? Jk.
Thanks for the help
Great tutorial. a shop wanted $300+ to do this replacement, when it'd cost me $15 for the part and a T30 bit
U PAY FOR THE KNOWLEDGE SKILL AND TOOLS DUMMY
Super helpful video! Took it from a $600 repair at a shop down to only $6 on Amazon.
I didn’t disconnect the entire wiring harness and it still worked just fine, but I can see how that would make it easier for someone to wrangle the steering column back into place if they don’t have much experience.
Hey man, thank you for this video. It saved me over $700 in labor. It was tricky putting it back up, but I got it. Y'all make sure you have someone to assist you when putting it back up. Do the front bolts first, but DON'T TIGHTEN THEM UP ALL THE WAY. Then, go and push up the back and tighten the back bolt. Make sure to put on a lock tie. Good luck, AND THANK YOU!
Hello, I appreciate your video. I had a question, after we set everything back up I noticed on my dash board a ESC Indicator light remain illuminated and the EPS too. I’m not sure how to fix it and I was wondering if you could help me out. Not sure if I did something wrong.
Great video! I was able to fix the problem which had plagued me for months but I have a few recommendations for the non-mechanically inclined. If you have power seats move the seat all the way back before you start. It will give you more room to operate. Unfortunately I had to do this job in my driveway which is inclined. IF you have to work in a driveway that is pitched do it so that the front of the car is facing the lower end. This will help keep the car door from closing back on you. The base of the steering column has a tab that fits into a notch on the bracket. You don't see that in this video. Knowing it is there will make it a lot easier to get the steering column off & on again. Also, while dropping my steering column, the upper & lower halves separated. They pop back into place easily buy I recommend making sure that they are lined up properly before you bolt everything back up or you will be taking it apart again, like me, because instead of the center of the steering column going from 9 to 3 it's going from 10 to 4. Lastly, after doing this my airbag light came on. While I straighten the steering wheel I am going to recheck all the connections and ground wire.
I was truly blessed by this video. It was put together, so simply. I’ve never done this before and it saved me money. I had to pray to Jesus a lot to , and he was my biggest help
Awesome information & tutorial, nobody can seem to tell me what is the life expectansy of the steering coupler.
The one 14mm in the back won’t budge! Do you know why this is? I tried loosening both left and right but it’s still tight as hell! 😭
Use a longer handle to loosen the bolt. I had to elongate my ratchet handle by using a pipe and that was the only way to loosen (and re-tighten) that bolt.
so i’m in desperate need of help! i changed the coupler and now my traction light is on and the car will think it’s sliding and lock the brakes up and won’t drive. i took everything apart again and made sure it was all plugged in right and the light is still on. please please help
Hi, triple check everything and make sure you have all the wires connected. You can also try disconnecting battery terminals for 2 mins and hook it back up and see if that helps. Keep me updated.
You did a fantastic job guiding me in this repair. Thanks a bunch! 🍻
Would this work for a 2010 Elantra? I haven’t found any videos yet
Fixed the steering coupler now the EPS and traction lights are on. No power steering at all.
Any help is appreciated.
I'm gonna disconnect the battery and double check all connectors. Does it have to be reprogrammed or cleared?
***update***
It ripped the one connector I didn't unplug 🤦♂️.
I was able to splice in a new connector from the junkyard. Everything is fine now!
Doesn’t need to be reprogrammed. Double check all the wiring harness and make sure you hooked them all back up. If they are try to disconnect the battery for a min and reconnect back.
Forgot to mention, I think theres a fuse for the eps module. Check the fuses too.
@@BrianBalatbat thank you so much
@@RusselResthaven I have this exact same problem. Did you find a solution?
It really is a 20-30min job if you've done it before.
Excellent video thank you. You don't know what you don't know; I heard the clunk and googled the noise and where I thought it was coming from and here you were. I stripped it out and replaced it in about two hours with minimum fuss. The coupler was completely intact it was just missing a few little nubs at the end of the spokes, enough to make a clunk I guess. All is good again! Do you have any videos on fixing a squealing dishwasher? LOL. Cheers.
Sweet! Glad you got it done. Maybe I will tackle a dishwasher next lol
That's crazy as hell. Who thought of making that piece plastic!? I want names goddamnit!!
🤣 seriously though
This video was very helpful. Like others, I followed it, and saved myself about $500 bucks! That's how much the dealer wanted to fix it. $4 dollars for the part, and $15 for a set of torques. One small challenges I encounters that he doesn't mention: getting that back bolt back in was a pain. I figured out that there is a metal tab in back of the column that must fit through a square opening towards the back. The column was heavy and awkward and took me a bit of time to get it lined up just right. Aside from this, easiest $500 I ever saved.
That’s my struggle right now lol
hello! A great video. However when I got everything back in and started the car my traction control light is on. Is there a wire i’m missing? pls help
also during the process the rear end of the wheel slipped out of the shaft that connects the electrical motor stuff and after putting it back on, my wheel is off centered when I drive straight... How do I fix this?
if you get the steering wheel out of alignment is there any way to fix it?
Great video, thanks.
No problem!
Thank you! It took me 1,5hours. The more difficult was the assembly because it is too heavy. Fortunately i had my girlfriend who helped me, but was a paine in the *.
Awesome! Glad you got it done and it’s always a plus when you have some help.
Helpful video, can a bad coupler cause steering to be veering to the right whilst driving, once to take your hands off the wheel? I have done the alignment already problem still persists. It’s a 2014 Elantra. Thanks in advance 🙏
any update?
why does it break to pieces in first place?
Is there danger in letting it rattle?
Is there any realignment needed after install?
My question too
Very Good Video just took my wifes car to shop for this exact Problem and they try to tell me i had to fix the whole steering system at almost 6,000 Dollars. Thank you for making this Awesome video your very detailed and on point much appreciated 👍
Wow $6k?? That’s insane. I’m glad you found my video and happy to hear I saved you some $🤘
I fixed mine had a little trouble getting the steering column back in, now I feel like I've been beat, but I will do it again if necessary, because I will not pay thousands of dollars for a six dollar fix.
@@casanovaspiderdiamonds1890 that is crazy as hell! O'Reilly's charged me $20 for the part and I thought that was a rip off lol.
Invaluable resource for this job. Thank you. However, as many have noted, aligning the 14mm bolt is a PIA. At one point, the wheel and lower gear separated at the splines. Apparently I reassembled them one spline off. Any advice for the easiest way to correct this, hopefully without taking the whole steering gear out again?
My mothers car needs this replaced I’ll be doing this job Sunday shouldn’t take much time great video
Took me and my father 2 days. We couldn't get the steering column back in place so the second day we called in backup. Left the windows down overnight since all the unplugged wires wouldn't let the car go pass accessory. The and since the steering column seperated gonna need a re-alignment... should've just paid the mechanic 87 dollars...
I've had the same problem for a while. 2011 Elantra Touring. 78k miles. Local shop said whole steering motor needed replacement for $1200. Dealership/Hyundai had a recall for this but it has expired by 2 years and won't honor recall.... that's BS. This is BAD design and a safety issue. Scheduled appointment at dealership. Takes 2 weeks out just to get in for diagnostic and they said they keep it for 3 days just to do that.
What a scam by Hyundai. Last one I'll ever buy. 🤬
Now all the brake and steering lights are amber. I've read this also happens eventually with this issue. Does anyone know if this is true
Thanks for the video... I've waiting for the weather to cool so if I try this repair, it won't be in 100 degree heat.
Ugh.
Did this for a 2011 sonata hybrid. This looks much simplier. The sonota had to acess the motor from the back and do it all blind. Took 2 of us to lift the column back up. 3 hours 😂
🤔 a plastic part that should have been a metal part from the start. Thanks Hyundai.
Good job on the how to brotha!
Exactly! I appreciate your comment 🙌
It's a bad design for sure. But making this part out of metal wouldn't avoid meshing metal to metal, and that's what this coupler is supposed to prevent.
I have a similar knock but only present when the ignition is on. Think this could be the same issue?
Thank you we'll done
Thank you for posting this. I followed this video this morning and my steering issue cleared right up. Thank you for saving me $390.
Just one thing to note for anyone going into this for the first time like I was -- Putting the shoulder bolt back in for the steering is a pain in the ass. Do yourself a favor and fasten the 2 nuts on the studs first then try to work the shoulder bolt in the mount. Unlatch the steering adjustment lever as needed once the nuts are in place. The mount nor the steering column mounting hole will be visible so you'll be relying on feel only.
I used 2 bottle jacks and got the column close to where it should be then bench pressed and bumped the hook in place and got the 2 nuts on first. Tougher than I though it would be. I almost thought i could take out the fuse box and drop the shaft as much as I could and just reach in and take out the part.
This comment saved me!
Video is amazing. I was able to follow along even with the audio off. Love how you showed where the connectors went too and the slow pull on the screw to show the washer underneath.
I gave you a like and subscribe as it was well deserved even if it screws up my algorithm. On another note can you do one for the radio? :p
I remembered I did this back in 2019 and when I pulled the entire steering column out of the Hyundai Elantra 2011 it didn't work. The front wheels didn't move.
Mine is the Elantra blue torx screws different size. Steering column nuts different size the electric motor sits on the side I could remove the 4 torx 26mm but it still would not come apart watching videos they show 3 screws this has 4 an it looks like the flat edge . yes there is a flat edge goes underneath. Gave up.put it back together 😢
Thank you! 👍 Saved me from replacing the u-joint and being WRONG!
Who is in nyc that can fix it for $100 😭😭. My car is having the same problem. Mechanic said $700 😢
Pro tip for getting the long bolt back in: lift the column to put the two front-top mounting nuts in, then it's really easy to wiggle the alignment for the long bolt by yourself.
Great video. I will add that my Elantra is a 2011. I did not need to unplug the wires at the top of the steering column. Just those near the coupler.
Nice video. Is there a need to grease the new coupler? Why/why not? Thanks!
I never had to grease them but the factory coupler seems to have grease. I would assume it’s greased up so it wouldn’t stick after a while.
make noise also on potholes? i took my kia rio 2016 on service because i have a clunck noise when i drive on bumps potholes and they dident find nothing on suspension, but my steering wheel makes noise when i move it side to side can it be this the reason of cluncking noise when i drive?
Absolutely goated video. Just fixed the clunking noise on my Elantra. Took a couple of hours, spent 8 bucks and not the 200 mechanic quote.
Wish I read comments first, but thank you the video was very detailed. I would’ve never found the rear bolt.
Can this cause steering failure or is it just annoying?
Not really failure but it’s annoying and would not recommend driving it like that for a while.
After I replaced the coupler I got a code c1260 for the steering angle sensor. Is there a way to reset the sensor or is it something I did?
Okay I'm hoping you can respond as quickly as soon as possible because now my steering wheel is too tight to turn after putting everything together and turn in my call why is my steering wheel so tight
good explication
Thanks a ton! Saved me
No problem!
Bro mine is just super tight and hard to turn what could it be it’s not like this please help
That’s hella stuff 😮
The motor is behind the instrument cluster is it not? Can this be performed by removing the instrument cluster?
After you put replacement in is there any need to put any lithium grease or anything like that?
You can but it’s not required.
@@BrianBalatbat thx bro
Saved me a ton of money do you have a Venmo or something I can donate to . The least I can do is buy you a beer .
Awesome, glad this video helped you. And I appreciate that! I don’t have Venmo but my cash app is $balatbatbrian87 🍻
@@BrianBalatbat sent
I really appreciate that bro. Will definitely buy beer that for sure 👊 thank you for your support.
Can you still drive with this broken part. Is this part crucial to the steering or is it acting like a sound/impact dampener ?
I am getting rid of my car in 3 months.
Thx
You can still drive it like that. Would i recommend it? Absolutely not. But yes it’s more like a dampener.
Thanks again for video, hepl me a lot and save me a lot of money, I watched the video 5 times before I decided to do the work and I fix it my 2013 hyundai elantra. The issue is steering wheel ho to return back it takes me 45 minutes. But I fix my car for just $12. Thank you gentlemen for your help.
Would’ve been nice to see the reassembly too.
Play it in reverse.
@@juicymoose6769😂 sho right
I felt the same but if you double tap to skip backwards it's pretty simpe
I REPLACED MY STEERING COUPLER AND IT WORKS GREAT, YOU TEACH STEP BY STEP GREAT JOB.
Thank you very much!!!
No problem 👊
Did mine today. Followed step by step and did it in 2,hours 👍
Holy Cow. I’ve done a lot on my Hyundai and this is an excellent video. Just know that rehanging that steering column about as hard as I care to go with a repair😅 But I did it and I thank you!
Amazingly detailed step by step video - great video and all tool sizes. Thank you!
No problem and thank you!
Any pointers how to keep track of where wires get plugged back into?
Take pictures or mark with masking tape
@@joecatalano3952 thx bro, that's what I planned on doin.
Just an FYI most plugs are shaped and sized for only one mating plug. Sometimes you'll run into one plug that fits more than one hole but typically each one is a different shape and size so it can only plug into one spot.
Cool shit help me a lot
Thanks for posting this. I followed along and its much easier than i anticipated.
Is that part also referred to as the kingpin?
After turning on my car my steering wheel is too tight. What did i do wrong
Double check all the wiring harness make sure it’s connected. Check power steering fuse as well.
Cheap yeah, but easy?!..
can’t believe someone quoted me $275 parts & labor when the part is only $5 😂😂😂 and no, it was not a dealership!
So u fixed it yourself 😂
After seeing some other posts, $275 isn't that bad. It's a "clunky" repair for such a simple part.
Followed step by step on my daughter's 2013 Elantra, and everything went great! Thank you so much! Excellent video!
Awesome, glad this video helped you!
Did a a relearn need to be preformed on these
I followed along the video as I replaced the coupler. I couldn't have done it without this video, thank you!
No problem glad this video helped you!
Youre the MVP! Got it done thanks to you and I didn't even cuss that much.
Haha a little bit of cussing always helps. Glad this video helped you!
Awesome video great job
My Hyundai dealer wants to charge me $521 for this job. The part costs $2.77 from the same dealer.
Nicely done. Good job on showing video place
Thank you!
Great video thanks brother
No problem thank you!
Thank you bro....
No problem 👊
esse normal changer se morceau la juste 61 000km
Flaw I see is with electric power steering how is the wheel freely moving with battery unhooked? Plan on replacing this part in the next couple of days on a 13 Elantra. It's been clunking when turning left for 2 years now. It only clunks when steering wheel is turning left, rather I'm moving or not does not make a difference.
Thanks so much for the great video. One thing to mention is if you have a power seat move it all the way back BEFORE you disconnect the battery. I forgot and had to wait another 20 min after battery disconnect. The hardest part was getting the column back into place. Important tip of getting the back tab into the slot, then pivot it up and start one of the 12mm nuts on the stud, but doesn’t mean it’s easy. This was the hardest part, but doable and once held in place with one nut it was easy to start the 14mm horizontal bolt by wiggling the column. Getting the old coupler goo out took longer than I thought, even with the column dropped, access to it is not great, but got it done. Thanks again!
I appreciate this comment and glad this video helped you as well! 👊
You took way too much apart, this is a 20 minute job. There is only two connections to unplug and the column will rotate to access the housing for dampener. My video coming soon.
Good for you
Well...were waiting
I’m ready to see it too!
Video up yet?
Me waiting for the video!💀
My 2011 Elantra is making this noise. My mechanic said that I need a new column completely and the part itself is $1000+ due to the part being 2011/2012 specific that it’s a telescopic column. Is this what it could actually be instead of a whole new one?
Honestly sounds like he’s trying to rip you off. This part is cheap. If yours is making the same exact noise then try doing this first or have someone else do it. Let me know how it goes!
You know what? This issue is a great test to discover who the scammers are. This is the same part in a whole line of Hyundai's and Kias.
Thank you for the video
My daughter is happy now 👍😎🫡😁✌️