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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ส.ค. 2016
- Wanted to give an explanation of an engine break in the way that I do it.
Setup:
'98 Margay Tsunami
Predator 212 HEMI
ARC Rod (standard length)
Billet Flywheel (ARC) 32* timing advance
22lbs springs
.615 carb
3-stage J-pipe
MOD 2 Cam
Break-in:
2 run times with small load at 10 minutes each with 15 minute cool down intervals. No reving the motor, just idle speed at 2,000 rpm's.
1 run time with load gradually bringing it up to a desired rpm range (depends on motor type build)
2-3 laps (1 mile long) gradual build up and slow down of rpm's but not maxing the motor out.
2-3 laps (1 mile long) "Give it all it's got" - Go for it....it'll either break or stay together depending on how well you built.
REMEMBER TO CHANGE OIL!!! Don't do this all on one run of oil.
I usually change everytime the ignition is turned off - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Pretty much what I did today with a tillotson 212 with a big valve head .ratio rockers . Isky cam. Stock crank . 28 mm oko carb . Just a daily build for the streets . Ty for the vid. Def looks like fun . Wish we had a track like this in cali but we do have some spots were we can ride our bikes . Hope this art never dies
Interesting. When I raced WKA dirt, we ran 5 hp Briggs motors. We would buy the stock motor, bolt it down and run a full tank of gasoline through it at full throttle with no load. At that point, motor would be torn down and inspected, then rebuilt with all of the stock internal components. We twisted our own cams, changed timing, switched stock carb for Tillotson and pump and switched to methanol. No need for break in since all parts were already seated. Only component that was changed periodically (roughly every other race weekend) was the rod, as they tended to stretch at 7k rpm. Not really familiar with how the newer motors are being modded but this is how it was done in the 1980s/90s.
You're mentioning a stock engine with stock internals that may have been broken in/seated from the factory. This is a build with custom parts that need the break in to seat everything correctly.
badass track!! Great run and Break in tip...
Great video. Great POV! Building a Predator ATV for my daughter. I’m into it for $200. At the break in point today!
how did it go?
great video ! i learned alot ..... thanks .
Very satisfying video. Nice work, bro. You made this hobby seem like a blast.
Thanks bud. I need to do an updated (more professional) version of this lol.
Mac Daddy can you post links to where you get all your parts?
@@hayden2384 I'd love to but I don't want to mislead any information on someone's build. The predators have 2 types...Hemi and Non-Hemi. Parts are not interchangeable between the two so I don't want to post false information if you get the other type of motor that I have.
With that, www.arcracing.com is the website for all the parts you'll need for a build. Call in and they'll be more than happy to help you with whatever you're looking for.
Mac Daddy lol fair enough.. thanks man!
Hello Mac Daddy love the kart
A guy the built Harley Davidson drag engines use to do all my bore work he told me to use Marvin's Mystery Oil for brake in he told me to coat the cylinder wall with the Mystery Oil but first scrub the cylinder down with soapy water and rinse it really good blow dry with the air compressor and after you get it together run it how you're going to drive it and I always run my mine wide open so that's how I broke mine in that Mystery Oil when seat the Rings first hard Rev.and you can believe it or not it works better than any other way I built plenty to know and never had one problem . I really don't know how much money it cost to build a race Harley but I'm sure it cost enough that you better know what your doing and this guy built his share
MACLIN. Great Job on the break in!!! Looks like you may be in Midland Odessa with the flat land, no trees and oil pump jacks---yes no? Is that golf driving range in the background?
2 or 3 heat cycles @ idle .
Then a few steady pulls
Cange oil from Zink based
to Fully Synthetic Race oil
Then run it up & down in RPMs on the Track
Works for me .
Thnx
track
great budget engine hemi or non hemi works well
What's your gear ratio on that? And it sounds great btw! Nice kart!
IMI haha been going for years with my son. though always on the dirt track, never been on that side 2 wheels are better good vid btw
nice dude im building one for a dirtbike
If u notice ur knocking worse like I just said take it apart remove the piston and replace the rings but with a smallist of bit smaller than what was in it so that when u go to start it up again after ur rebuild just ride it like u normally do cuz the ring when it cools down it’ll shrink but it’ll be bigger than when it went in so after u ride it the ring gap will be the size of what it’s supposed have in there so that when ever it gets hot again that’s the size it expands to and retracts
Run it for ten min. Change oil. Run for ten min rev a few times change oil. Continue until oil is clean of metal. Gradually increase the load and repeat. The more time you take doing this the better. It's up to how clean you want your oil.
How fast can you get it up to?
Change the oil after break in might be metal shavings
How often dou go to imi
Also get better spark plugs and thicker oil mixed with marvel mystery oil so it stays thin and thic at the same time so that when it’s cold there’s a thick but thin film of oil on everything so that on start up everything is still lubed and after it starts the oil nearly insanely is we’re it’s supposed to be but let it warm up on its oil for at least 5 mins before every use so the oil thins out enough that it doesn’t create friction between the bore and rings
I always thought splash oiling was only good for about 5,000 rpm max?
Splash systems are good for so much more. Limited mods and opens can run 10,000+ rpms and no problems.
What clutches do you run. I have a 212 with a little more work and keep smoking the centrifugal clutches
That's always a tricky question. Whenever you can use a disk clutch always go for that. For these builds I'd suggest a 2 disk Bully clutch.
Where is this track
Why are we not using nitro methane?
Just did my test run on my 212 with some mods , still waiting on getting the fly wheel . I see your in CO . Me and few friends have some barnyard karts we like to run , DIY spots and some track runs. I was getting around 5600 on my test runs and brake-in today hoping to get around what you getting out of yours once I have the flywheel
Hit me up if your doing some track days
If you're in CO let me know...would love to get out with others.
Also, if you need any help with the build, I'm available to help in any way with any questions you may have....even suggestions if you want.
Mac Daddy ya in the centennial area . I could use all kinda of suggestions/advice . I was giving a kart with a superbee motor and got the bug. Then of course tossed a rock through the air filter at the centennial track. to soon learn how old the motor was when looking for parts and everything had the words vintage in front of it and buy now. So now I'm doing a stage 3 build ,I guess you could call it , on the 212 pred. What flywheel you suggest for that bad boy?
A superbee.....woooow man that's even past my time haha. Seen a few run but never worked on them. Good thing it blew so you can work on something with more available parts lol.
As far as the stage 3 is concerned...vendors have different parts for a "Stage 3" upgrade. Where did you order the product from? As far as flywheel goes, you'll need billet aluminum if you're planning to turn more than 6500 rpms...ARC Racing has a great list of options for it. Make sure you know whether you have a HEMI or Non-HEMI predator.
Here's the best mod of all take off that China crap motor! And run a Briggs or Tecumseh !
You still in this 7 years later? I just built my first 212 and watched this for a proper break in. Curious what oil weight and how often you change it after break in? I was thinking of a 5w20 full syn. But see lots of people saying they run a 0w15 for less rotating resistance and higher RPMs.
So interestingly enough we are still tinkering around out here haha. We committed a full race schedule in 2020 and 2021 both sprint and dirt and surprisingly won the points championship for both. See below:
youtube.com/@frewendrivingexperience5799?si=9J3P9Y_-f7P-7_-B
As far as weights of oil go, it's all depending on application of how you're using the motor. If you go check out Bob's 4 Cycle, there's a TON of information on there to help you out.
@@msfrewen2man that’s awesome to hear you are still in it and now spring car racing too. AND WINNING 🏆 👏🏼. Nice! Yeah I’m building it as a reviver so I got two idle heat cycles on it at the bench so I’ll install it and start getting it up to 7-8k soon. Thanks man.
Can you leave links to what you did to your 6.5
The majority of parts were purchased through ARC Racing.
They have a GREAT staff and are very helpful. If you give them a call you can discuss every option about a build you would want to do.
www.arcracing.com/
Bro like when u come around the curve rather if u let off the gas or not u should use the clutch cuz the motor knocks at midrange around a curve when u don’t let off and basically what’s happening is the load is to much for the motor need a bigger piston or just let off the gas and use clutch then rev it up and eases off the clutch until ur almost fully out then just fully release it and it will make u go fast and make the motor last longer cuz when it’s knocking the piston is floating and when it floats it’s going to eat a hole in the middle of the bore and as it gets bigger it will start to knock or just make a lil more noise while ur useing it hard start and the knocking will be a lot worse each time u use it and ur valves will start backing out cuz it’s retardaning the timing cuz it’s losing power
Does that place allow mini bikes?
They run mini moto's if that's what you're asking about. Pit bikes and things like that I'm not sure of. Would need to call and ask.
I race there alot
What fuel you running?
Because of additives these days I'd just stick with 91 Octane for a build like this. The compression isn't high enough to yield 91's potential but it's a cleaner gas.
so i got a stock 212cc predator and if i do the same break in u did, i dont have to wait 3 hours? i just do what u did each 10 mins?
You could definitely do all this with a stock motor. Problem is you'll have the governor kick in so you won't be able to reach those higher rpms, but you can still do it this way no worries.
Or cut the governor arm off right above where it comes out of the block take the side cover off take the rest of the arm out of the block and remove the governor gear and bolt the side cover back on plug the hole on top the block where it used to come out with a short self tapping screw and no worry of the pesky governor anymore lol
what was the top speed?
If I remember correctly from that day...
I ran a 14T Driver and 57T Axle running 10" tires at 7,500 RPM's (from what I can confidently say I hit).
With all that, we can calculate that I was hitting around 55mph
This motor wasn't geared correctly as it should be hitting 8,500+RPM's which at that point will get you to around 62mph.
Mind you this is on a "roughly estimated" 500ft straight-away.
It went fast downhill!
hello im just getting into go karts and learning everything slowly i just installed my predator engine and thanks for these tips but where do you get your wheels also i found my go karts old tires online. but it only comes with the tire and i need the rim too how do i know what size rime i need?
A lot can vary on what tire you need or want. Without a picture I can't really help you out much honestly.
What you need to do is first figure out what hubs you have...that will give you the bolt pattern of which rims to look for. After that, it all depends how big you want to go with rims and tires.
Find online forums and post a picture of the hubs you have, there are a lot of people that can give you the guidance to meet your needs. Good luck bud!
What’s the top speed plz reply thanks you
Top speed for this build is just 1 setup. You can change tire sizes, sprocket sizes and depending on engine build, the max speed will be always vary.
Mac Daddy thanks man
Do u know the difference of the LO206 and the 212cc?
Absolutely. The 206 is a Briggs and Stratton Animal based motor that is very popular among the sprint racing platform and is catching up with the LTO races as well. It's a sealed spec motor coming from the factory that keeps racing very honest between racers figuring you cannot open the lower end up and manipulate it.
The 212 is a Predator brand sold by Harbor Freight. There is a Box Stock Predator class that is popular with LTO racing but is starting to take the same path the "Clones" have taken when they first come out as rules are changing ever so slightly enabling people to "tweak" the motors for more power which is causing the build prices to go up.
Are you using a fuel pump?
Yes, pulse style. It's the black circular piece sitting on top of the top plate. You can find them all over the place that offers kart parts.
To
We build and run small block open predators on real race karts (big cams, billet heads, stroking, ratio rockers, literally thousands in parts and machine work) with methanol tillotsons. If you’re running a pull start predator on pump gas with little to no modification, you are flat out wasting your time with this “break in” nonsense. Put it together and go have fun. Don’t buy into this BS.
To each their own when it comes to this. As stated there are multiple "ideas" on this but I have yet to have anything fail with a tried and true break-in procedure. You mentioned that you're investing "thousands" into parts and machine work. To me it sounds like you can AFFORD to take the risk of blowing it up. Most can't and I'm trying to help "insure" that their hard spent time and money on a build doesn't fail them right away. It sounds like this video is not for you so I'd suggest you take your trolling elsewhere.
Maclin I’m not trolling at all, we do most of our own work for the most part and in most scenarios can’t afford to lose a motor. All I’m saying is that there is 0 difference between a stock predator being broken in and even an open motor. The biggest risk you have is washing a cylinder out if your carb is wrong whether it be a stock carb, mikuni or tillotson regardless of fuel. My main motors I run are 50+ HP alcohol two strokes and I don’t even break those in besides getting heat in them before putting a load on. This is trivial overthinking when time can be spent elsewhere.