You saved my brother hundreds!!!! Car was would not stay running and I went over there just before the Tow Truck. He had a mouse nest in the Air filer compartment and his Mass Air Sensor was full of crap. After cleaning it out and spraying it down with cleaner car ran like a top! Thanks so much as this video was a life saver!
and did the same code came back? If it is, i would 2x check wirings, also having a scantool on hand will allow you to watch the values of MAF in the data lists. Base on the reading will help you determine if it is reading or not. A faul code that stays on righy after erasing it means it is a wiring issue or faulty ECM.
The check engine light stayed on, wasn’t able to drive it because the car wouldn’t stay on, battery light came on too. I’ll Check the code again. Thank you for responding
I’m having this same issue 2012 Nissan maxima. I’ve replaced the maf sensor twice in one year because the codes was reading that was the issue. Had a mechanic to clean it (also throttle) because it looked fine. Still having issue to when I’m driving it stalls or cut off while idling.
We had same exact problem ended up replacing both mass air flow sensor and throttle body. Did the throttle body relearn that came with part and fixed problem. Good thing parts came with warranty because I have to change it every year or so.
yes there is search nissan idle air relearn, there are so many in youtube. You can also give me ur email and i will send you the procedure to do it. Although in this video, i didnt have to relearn idle.
2011 Nissan Maxima: Over the course of years before I bought the car from my sister the battery would randomly leave her stranded (or so she thought) but it's odd that the car would start just fine and after a short drive of perhaps three minutes and about fifteen minutes of her shopping the battery suddenly dies when she gets back in (her job and the store were very close so it was odd that it would crank once but fail less than 30 minutes later). I buy the car and change the alternator and the electrical connector for the alternator cause the plastic was brittle and broken, I did this cause the battery would randomly be drained after the car sat for weeks or sometimes only days. Car works fine for a few weeks (not driven regularly though) and I find the battery is still draining cause it's dead one day, but I charge it up . A couple of weeks later I got in the car and it cranked just fine but then after I put it in reverse all the warning lights come on and the engine wouldn't rev up in reverse. I put it in drive and the motor will rev up and move the car, put it back in reverse and get nothing. I buy a new battery and the car is cranking and working correctly, after a trip the battery and brake light start to flutter on and off but I make it home with no issues. Now the battery and brake light keep coming on but the car is working fine, though I note that if I rev the motor up I can make the light go out after a few times reving the engine. Opinion?
Wow, this is a very nice case study :) And it will be hard if i m not next to the car. 1st is you need to address the drain issue and then the charging system which could be related. Then finally the transmission reverse issue. To test for drain you need a voltmeter at the very least, test out connection to the battery and their high amp fuse. Test battry terminal post voltage and connectors both positive and negative to see if they have the same voltage. Then test parasitic drain and there are tons of ways to check it in youtube using a voltmeter.
@@DRBauto The battery is never really dead. Terminals are clean, I bought a new battery (which was unnecessary since the old one was holding voltage, twice I know of the car would crank once and after only a couple of minutes you could turn the car off and it wouldn't start while giving the impression that the battery was dead (like the car attempting to start but failing), I've read other people who have similar issues putting in multiple alternators just for them to fail after a short time. My opinion is that the real issue is in the IPDM cause I read so many people's accounts of changing batteries and alternators to no avail with very few people saying any fix was lasting (I only know of one person who said they changed out the alternator twice and their car worked after the second was put in). I've always had on and off issues with the battery draining while the car sat but only after I've changed the alternator have I had the brake and battery indicator come on. I did fine for weeks until recently the light started flickering on and then going out but now it's on constantly. I really don't think the problem lies with the charging system but w8th the Intelligent power distribution module that controls it all. I'm going to get one from a wrecked Maxima if I can and switch it out but I get the feeling the IPDM has ruined my new alternator like I believe it is doing to other people's cars.
@@AudioGardenSlave123 it is possible that the IPDM is doing it. Heres a quick test if alternator is bad. Disconnect the 4wire connector from the alternator and start vehicle. While running see if the battery light is still on. If it is still on, then alternator is good but the warning light is shorted to ground. This can only happen on the wire rubbing against the engine bay area getting grounded from alternator to the combination meter. TRY THIS: The Brown wire (ground for the charge light bulb) in the three wire connector at the back of the alternator has 11 volts when grounding the Brown wire, the charge light turns on. 1. Backprobe and check for good constant battery voltage on the Yellow/Black wire in the three wire connector at the back of the alternator. The Yellow/Black wire is the sense voltage for the regulator. 2. If the Yellow/Black wire has good battery voltage, check for good battery voltage to the battery stud on the back of the alternator - Black/Red wire. 3. If the battery stud has good battery voltage, check the ground for the alternator through the case of the alternator and there is also a Black wire in an eyelet on the case of the alternator for ground. Look for 0.05 volts or less (for voltage drop) on the ground with the engine running. 4. If the alternator ground is good, check that the wires in the three wire connector in the back of the alternator are in the correct place in the connector. With the lock (the lock that locks the connector into the back of the alternator) at the top and looking at the wire side where the wires go into the back of the connector, the Brown wire should be on the right, the Yellow/Black wire in the middle and the Sky Blue wire on the left. 5. If the three wire connector is wired correctly, verify the three wire connector has a clean and tight connection. 6. If the three wire connector has a clean and tight connection and the other voltages and ground are good but the alternator is not grounding the charge light with the key on engine off, replace the alternator again. 2 | 63% The Brown wire is the charge light circuit. It should be grounded by the alternator and read about 1 volt or less with the key on engine off. The Brown wire should go through the field of the alternator (field excitation circuit) to ground and turn the charge light on, but then have charging voltage on the Brown wire with the engine running to turn off the charge light.
@@DRBauto Thanks for all the info cause it useful for other things too. When I changed the alternator the plastic connector plug broke to pieces since it was made brittle by heat. I changed the connector but instead of cutting and splicing the three wire I disassembled the connector and used the original wires in the new one. I've done it before with other electrical parts and it's easier (to me) than cutting, spicing, and sealing/taping wires. Anyway, when I did that I looked at the wires and the metal connectors and they were clean as could be and weren't deformed. The plastic/rubber seals on the wires were flexible and sealing them well. Everything worked after I installed the alternator and I thought, for a while, that it was fixed. Recently I cranked the car and pulled the positive terminal and found that the car was running solely off the battery so I assumed the battery warning light was because it really wasn't charging, plus I get a drain 11 volts when the car was running when testing on the battery terminals, so the battery was draining rather than charging. I need to reread your comment to see if you mentioned a way of testing whether the alternator is being told to 'produce power' (for lack of a better way of phrasing it).
Gonna check had to leave car at Kroger but triple aaa gonna drop it off here that is exactly what it's doing it's a 2015 Altima never changed air filter gonna check my truck ..😅😅😅😅🎉thank God bless
Saved me hundreds of dlls. I wss going crazy already. Thanks this fixd my problem
Im glad it helped you.
You saved my brother hundreds!!!! Car was would not stay running and I went over there just before the Tow Truck. He had a mouse nest in the Air filer compartment and his Mass Air Sensor was full of crap. After cleaning it out and spraying it down with cleaner car ran like a top! Thanks so much as this video was a life saver!
Its always nice to start with the simple things before replacing parts.
Very nice explanation and information
Thank you
This is really helpful video especially for those who has the same vehicle as this...more videos to come brother..thanks for sharing this
Thank you friend just did a starter and forgot to plug in my wire to mass sensor thank you again,
M glad it helped
2014 Altima code came up for maf sensor replaced it but it still won’t stay on
and did the same code came back? If it is, i would 2x check wirings, also having a scantool on hand will allow you to watch the values of MAF in the data lists. Base on the reading will help you determine if it is reading or not. A faul code that stays on righy after erasing it means it is a wiring issue or faulty ECM.
The check engine light stayed on, wasn’t able to drive it because the car wouldn’t stay on, battery light came on too. I’ll
Check the code again. Thank you for responding
I’m having this same issue 2012 Nissan maxima. I’ve replaced the maf sensor twice in one year because the codes was reading that was the issue. Had a mechanic to clean it (also throttle) because it looked fine. Still having issue to when I’m driving it stalls or cut off while idling.
Can u give me the codes you are getting. Something else might be causing it
We had same exact problem ended up replacing both mass air flow sensor and throttle body. Did the throttle body relearn that came with part and fixed problem. Good thing parts came with warranty because I have to change it every year or so.
Was there a relearn procedure you had to do to restore normal rpms when idling?
yes there is search nissan idle air relearn, there are so many in youtube. You can also give me ur email and i will send you the procedure to do it. Although in this video, i didnt have to relearn idle.
Sir my car hesistates to start and starts while prrssing accelerator and dies suddenly when gas pedal is released
Is there a check engine light?
Hey man similar issue here, what was it??? Really would appreciate the help buddy
@@DRBauto nope,no check engine light.
@@DRBauto nope, but when i remove the maf sensor and refix it the car works fine . Am confused
@@shaimajassem7640 Did you mean to say that, you removed the MAF and placed it back?
2011 Nissan Maxima: Over the course of years before I bought the car from my sister the battery would randomly leave her stranded (or so she thought) but it's odd that the car would start just fine and after a short drive of perhaps three minutes and about fifteen minutes of her shopping the battery suddenly dies when she gets back in (her job and the store were very close so it was odd that it would crank once but fail less than 30 minutes later). I buy the car and change the alternator and the electrical connector for the alternator cause the plastic was brittle and broken, I did this cause the battery would randomly be drained after the car sat for weeks or sometimes only days. Car works fine for a few weeks (not driven regularly though) and I find the battery is still draining cause it's dead one day, but I charge it up . A couple of weeks later I got in the car and it cranked just fine but then after I put it in reverse all the warning lights come on and the engine wouldn't rev up in reverse. I put it in drive and the motor will rev up and move the car, put it back in reverse and get nothing. I buy a new battery and the car is cranking and working correctly, after a trip the battery and brake light start to flutter on and off but I make it home with no issues. Now the battery and brake light keep coming on but the car is working fine, though I note that if I rev the motor up I can make the light go out after a few times reving the engine. Opinion?
Wow, this is a very nice case study :) And it will be hard if i m not next to the car. 1st is you need to address the drain issue and then the charging system which could be related. Then finally the transmission reverse issue. To test for drain you need a voltmeter at the very least, test out connection to the battery and their high amp fuse. Test battry terminal post voltage and connectors both positive and negative to see if they have the same voltage. Then test parasitic drain and there are tons of ways to check it in youtube using a voltmeter.
I assumed that it starts all the time if you jump the battery with another vehicle.
@@DRBauto The battery is never really dead. Terminals are clean, I bought a new battery (which was unnecessary since the old one was holding voltage, twice I know of the car would crank once and after only a couple of minutes you could turn the car off and it wouldn't start while giving the impression that the battery was dead (like the car attempting to start but failing), I've read other people who have similar issues putting in multiple alternators just for them to fail after a short time. My opinion is that the real issue is in the IPDM cause I read so many people's accounts of changing batteries and alternators to no avail with very few people saying any fix was lasting (I only know of one person who said they changed out the alternator twice and their car worked after the second was put in). I've always had on and off issues with the battery draining while the car sat but only after I've changed the alternator have I had the brake and battery indicator come on. I did fine for weeks until recently the light started flickering on and then going out but now it's on constantly. I really don't think the problem lies with the charging system but w8th the Intelligent power distribution module that controls it all. I'm going to get one from a wrecked Maxima if I can and switch it out but I get the feeling the IPDM has ruined my new alternator like I believe it is doing to other people's cars.
@@AudioGardenSlave123 it is possible that the IPDM is doing it. Heres a quick test if alternator is bad. Disconnect the 4wire connector from the alternator and start vehicle. While running see if the battery light is still on. If it is still on, then alternator is good but the warning light is shorted to ground. This can only happen on the wire rubbing against the engine bay area getting grounded from alternator to the combination meter.
TRY THIS: The Brown wire (ground for the charge light bulb) in the three wire connector at the back of the alternator has 11 volts when grounding the Brown wire, the charge light turns on.
1. Backprobe and check for good constant battery voltage on the Yellow/Black wire in the three wire connector at the back of the alternator. The Yellow/Black wire is the sense voltage for the regulator.
2. If the Yellow/Black wire has good battery voltage, check for good battery voltage to the battery stud on the back of the alternator - Black/Red wire.
3. If the battery stud has good battery voltage, check the ground for the alternator through the case of the alternator and there is also a Black wire in an eyelet on the case of the alternator for ground. Look for 0.05 volts or less (for voltage drop) on the ground with the engine running.
4. If the alternator ground is good, check that the wires in the three wire connector in the back of the alternator are in the correct place in the connector. With the lock (the lock that locks the connector into the back of the alternator) at the top and looking at the wire side where the wires go into the back of the connector, the Brown wire should be on the right, the Yellow/Black wire in the middle and the Sky Blue wire on the left.
5. If the three wire connector is wired correctly, verify the three wire connector has a clean and tight connection.
6. If the three wire connector has a clean and tight connection and the other voltages and ground are good but the alternator is not grounding the charge light with the key on engine off, replace the alternator again.
2 | 63%
The Brown wire is the charge light circuit. It should be grounded by the alternator and read about 1 volt or less with the key on engine off. The Brown wire should go through the field of the alternator (field excitation circuit) to ground and turn the charge light on, but then have charging voltage on the Brown wire with the engine running to turn off the charge light.
@@DRBauto Thanks for all the info cause it useful for other things too.
When I changed the alternator the plastic connector plug broke to pieces since it was made brittle by heat. I changed the connector but instead of cutting and splicing the three wire I disassembled the connector and used the original wires in the new one. I've done it before with other electrical parts and it's easier (to me) than cutting, spicing, and sealing/taping wires. Anyway, when I did that I looked at the wires and the metal connectors and they were clean as could be and weren't deformed. The plastic/rubber seals on the wires were flexible and sealing them well. Everything worked after I installed the alternator and I thought, for a while, that it was fixed. Recently I cranked the car and pulled the positive terminal and found that the car was running solely off the battery so I assumed the battery warning light was because it really wasn't charging, plus I get a drain 11 volts when the car was running when testing on the battery terminals, so the battery was draining rather than charging. I need to reread your comment to see if you mentioned a way of testing whether the alternator is being told to 'produce power' (for lack of a better way of phrasing it).
Gonna check had to leave car at Kroger but triple aaa gonna drop it off here that is exactly what it's doing it's a 2015 Altima never changed air filter gonna check my truck ..😅😅😅😅🎉thank God bless
i am very happy to help. Very basic and common cause of Crank, Start and Stall issue.
What a dirty engine
:) :) :) I d k how it get there :)