NiCopp - The BEST Brake Lines in the World and Why. NEVER Rust | NiCopp Pros and Cons review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 ก.ค. 2024
- NiCopp brake line is the greatest discovery I've made this year. Apparently it has been around for years on European cars and is also known as Cunifer brake tubing / Cunifer brake line.
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4 Reasons to Use NiCopp Brake Line:
1. NiCopp copper nickel brake line is very flexible.
In most cases you won’t even need tools When replacing longer lines to the rear of your vehicle you will be working hard if you don’t use NiCopp Nickel Copper brake line.
2. NiCopp copper nickel brake line is corrosion resistant on the outside
The exposed conifer copper nickel brake line is still 88.7% copper. This means that all the road salt and grime you pick up in the winter is ineffective at rusting the outside of the tube. Normal steel brake line is coated in a corrosion resistant material. If this material fades or is scratched the plain steel line underneath is exposed and WILL RUST
3. NiCopp copper nickel brake line is corrosion resistant on the INSIDE
Even DOT 3 or 4 brake fluid will absorb ambient moisture and hold it in suspension. Inside those steel brake lines there is no coating to protect the lines allowing them to rust from the inside.
NiCopp is MADE OF 88.7% COPPER. Copper doesn't rust! Not even from the inside.
4. NiCopp copper nickel brake line is soft
When it comes time to make brake line fitting connections you will need to flare the end of the tube. Flares are easy with such a soft material.
Final Thoughts
You should NEVER try to repair a brake line, if you get a break or pinhole the whole line should be replaced, it’s the only way to be safe. If you want to make the job easier buy some NiCopp copper nickel tube!
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Strongly agree! I just replaced the rotten rear brake lines on my outback with nicopp. The entire repair wouldn't be possible without copper brake lines.
Just inspected the lines on my old Jeep and you put me over the edge in my decision to go with Ni Cop lines. And now here in 2021, I actually got it cheaper than steel! Great video, thanks for the info!
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the enormously helpful info! Glad the highway incident didn't cause any worse issues. Nice video and background music, too.
Glad it helped! And yeah I am too lol
Manufacturers would rather make aluminum beds and fancy step tailgates than put something on the truck that may prolong the useful life of the truck. Better brake lines, rocker panels, door skins and tailgates that don't turn to dust in 5 years would be a huge selling point for me.
Dave Reith 100% agree
one has to do there own engineering and handy work to replace the manufactured foolish perty Cosmetics they do just to get the vehicle to sell.🚙
you hit the spot right there: "Manufacturers would rather make aluminum beds and fancy step tailgates than put something on the truck that may prolong the useful life of the truck". That's is the real reason our society is falling apart - GREED and TOTAL DISREGARD for actual honest to goodness value. Nowadays we produce JUNK that doesn't last simply to put money in the pockets of the few at the top. This will only stop when finally get legislators with enough balls to put these manufacturers IN JAIL for producing garbage that HARM PEOPLE AND THE ENVIRONMENT by risking our lives and the unnecessary garbage we need to get rid off prematurely because someone wanted to save a few pennies here and there >:-(
Great video! Well done. Just ordered some nickel copper lines from EZ-Fit can’t wait. The shop wanted $1,500 to replace brake lines😳. What I ordered, prefit only $154.
1500 is crazy. Best of luck with it!
My 1992 Volvo came with these lines. It spent 22 years in northern Ohio. Never replaced any metal lines.
Nice! Back when Volvo knew what was up
Good job, Pete! Now I have this urge to go change my brake lines!
Do it!! Haha
Fixing to buy the kit soon on my 2000 gmc sierra.
Previous owner screwed the whole truck up but got it for hella cheap.
👍
I love NiCopp! Just used it to make new brake lines for my 40 year old FJ40 Land Cruiser. Quick Tip: If your new lines leak at the fitting, loosen and retighten the fitting 3-4 times, tightening a little more each time. It forms the NiCopp flare against the seat and stops the leak.
Good to know!
Thsnks for the tip
Thank you for this video! I want reliability and im completely overhauling the rusty brakes on my 53 Chevy. Im putting a dual bowl and adding the front manual disc brakes. Im soo glad I found this video. And I agree you replace the entire line. Never splice in for a permanent repair.
Glad it helped! Best of luck with the build!
Well done my friend, straight to the point & easy enough for almost anyone to understand, unless they're stuck on Stoopid! 🤔🤣😉 Give yourself a pat on the back pal. Thanks! ++Peace & Rock n' Roll 4 Your Soul++ 🤘😉🤘
Glad it was helpful!
Best stuff since sliced bread ! Love the stuff
Absolutely helpful. Thank you sir.
I started using this stuff in 2014-2015, patched a couple vehicles, and used it to run all new lines in both my cars. I'm in Ohio, and have had multiple brake lines blow out due to rust. Now 4+ years later, the NiCopp is still doing great in my cars. I see very light green corrosion, but appears to be just lightly on the surface, otherwise 98% of it looks clean / shiny still. My old steel lines looked like they came off the Titanic ship wreck they were so rusty / weak, and could see the previous owner(s) already had it patched in a few spots. The Nickel Copper line is so easy to bend / flare, I'll never use steel line again. I got mine (Nicopp brand) on ebay for like $45 for 50ft, and it looks like some even cheaper on there (not sure of brand though). In total I spent roughly $150 to do both of my cars, $50 of that was a cheap flaring kit, and still have a little extra line left over in case I need to patch anything. It is doable in a driveway or garage on jack stands if you are able to do it yourself to save labor costs. I'm happy with the NiCopp line, just so easy to work with all around.
Great feedback 👍 definitely an awesome product and I don't know why more people don't know about it.
@@TheSundaeDrive here in the uk that is what we have been using for years.
Definitely the smart way to go!
Exactly what I'm doing and using right at this moment! Replacing every line on a 2000 Chrysler LHS that my wife inherited from her mother which came from Md.
best of luck with it!
I bought 3/16 inch brake line advertised as Nickel Copper on Amazon. I bent about thirty bends and bubble flared both ends only to find the tube is magnetic. The local auto-parts store carries AGS brand and it is not magnetic. Re-bent the lines two more times and finally installed with DOT 4 brake fluid.
I love living in Oregon. No salt on the roads and I can back off brake line fittings on 50 year old cars. Seeing pictures of frames rotting in half are like looking at mars. Never seen anything like it.
You are fortunate! Hate that about living here
Thank you for the video :)
Car manufacturers are not concerned about our safety. They know about NiCopp but they are still using steel just to save a few $$. It makes no sense to have 20 air bags, stability control,abs brakes on a modern car, if the brake lines are slowly rotting away under the car.
It's an interesting ethical conundrum. Extremes are bad in either direction. If automobiles were built as safe and long lasting as many people say they want they would cost more than most could afford and would be quite unpleasant to drive.
Automotive manufacturing has swung toward the opposite extreme. Known serious safety issues are not addressed because of costs. The bean counters have taken over most American manufacturing. "Automobile safety" is actually an actuarial exercise for automotive manufacturers bean counters. Essentially putting a dollar value on someones' life. If the dropoff in sales due to bad PR, legal fess, and settlements are less than the cost of re-designing an unsafe part or assembly they will use the cheaper parts and or not re-design the assembly.
Eddie Valiant had it right... "Here's to the pencil pushers. May they all get lead poisoning."
@@TheOcculus what a load of brainwashed bull crap you talk buddy!! They have 'educated' you into total stupidity.. the worst part is you have blindly gone along with it.
If you dont wash off salt after it snows then yes it will rust bad. People seem to not want to wash off 2-3 times a week in winter though. Parking in a garage actually makes the salt/ice melt and can add to rusting as well. If you wash your car after each snow and keep it up in winter, your brake lines will be fine.
Hard to maintain that when you have salt on the roads for 3-5 months straight here. Especially the saline solution they spray now, it coats everything. Definitely a good idea to always spray the lines down as often as you can but the lines will eventually fail.
@@TheSundaeDrive Washing your car is part of the maintenance. It should be done regularly. Summer and winter.
I live near Chicago and I am redoing all the brake lines in my 05 Suburban.All Nicopp FYI there is about 70 lineal ft🤦♂️A absolute pain,but with every line I finish I feel crazy Confident with this product
Great tip👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
No problem!
Awesome. Thank you
You bet!
Great info
Glad it was helpful!
I have to agree👍 i bought a 2002 dodge truck (rust bucket) just replaced one line from front box back to rear wheel. Here’s a trick heat up the nut with propane, apply candle to it, let set 5 min and heat again and apply your candle. Then turn the rusty nut loose easy peezy every time👍 the wax goes to the threads and it comes loose easily-GIVE IT A TRY👍
+KT Tangos good tip! Funny that you just commented on this video because we are redoing the brake lines on my Silverado tomorrow with pre-measured lengths of NiCopp and the flares and fittings already installed. Not looking forward to it but should be a decent video
Cant wait to see the upcoming video. It might motivate me to remove a compression fitting ( never use them) and replace some lines on a 2004 kia optima😂
I think that is what we use at work on our grease systems. Whatever we use I have never seen it rust,and our systems run at 3500 psi I believe
Hi, i was going to order a dormain stainless 7 piece brake line kit comes with fittings,but this seems easier to install,,,do they sell kits with flares already made??? i don't have a flare tool set....thanks for sharing
What about buying new brake line and harness plastic holder??? anyone know where to get them??? i need the 2 that support 4 lines and wire harness between master and abs block...thanks
Here's the problem with these NiCopp brake lines - sure the lines themselves don't rust, but boy the nuts on them sure do. The nuts will rust very fast, in about just two years they will be so rusty you will not be able to remove them without destroying them. Because this brake line is made with a different metal than what it is connecting to, a process called galvanic corrosion occurs (look it up, it is basic chemistry).
I encountered this problem when it came time to replace my rear drum brakes. When It came time to bleed the brakes the bleeder screw broke off so I had to replace the brake cylinder. To replace the brake cylinder I had to remove the less than two year old NiCopp brake line. The nuts on both ends of the NiCopp brake line was severely rusted, more rusted than nuts elsewhere on the vehicle that were 20 years old. I had to destroy this NiCopp brake line to get it off.
It is nice that the line itself does not rust and I like that they are easy to bend. But the weakness is the nuts on them and the process of galvanic corrosion. They really need to fix this situation.
Hmm that is an interesting point and something I wouldn't have thought about. Just curious, how long ago did this happen? I'm wondering if they have changed the ends since
@@TheSundaeDrive Like I said, it was just two years ago. I did replace this line again with another NiCopp line. Not sure what color the nuts on the old NiCopp line was. They were so rusted I could not tell what the color was. The new NiCopp line I bought has nuts that are black. Only time will tell if they rust just as fast.
Why not use stainless double flare nuts? A couple of bucks more and available on Amazon.
@@lukasmatzinger Just because the package says stainless steel doesn't necessarily mean good stainless steel. Ask any sailor who spent a ton on so called "stainless" to replace anchor chain, only to have it corrode in just a few years use. If you got it off Amazon, pretty good chance it is crap metallurgy.
Sadly true.
I have a hummer H2 Which diameter do i use? Im thinking its the same as the 2500HD? Thanks
Will this have any kind of electrolytic reaction to cast iron?
The Nickel copper lines is better than seal lines but let me improve your info on rust. The rust IS oxidation of metal therefor copper line oxidation is also "rusting" but it happens much slower than seal rusting.
Though thumbs up for your video!
Thanks for that! Glad you enjoyed the video 😊
I needed brake lines for my rusty Wrangler. AutoZone didn't have them on hand. But the guy at the counter suggested this. WOW!! So freaking easy. To run lines to the back and hook it all up took less than an hour. They didn't have the bulk roll, and I don't have a flaring tool. So I bought the longest pre-flared sections and linked them with fittings. One thing though. If you want it to look pretty and professional looking, this ain't it. By the time you're done, they're very crooked and warped looking because it's so soft. But totally idiot proof for the DIY'er that just wants brakes or transmission.
Hard to get it to look as good but definitely very easy to work with and won't rust 🙏👍
tnx 4 video info ! 📚🔨🔧👍
Glad it helped!
Great video! Quick question. My Hanes manual says never to replace steel lines with copper because they cannot withstand the vibration of long runs. Any thoughts on if this is true with NiCopp? Thanks
You do not want to use straight copper. This alloy is stronger than copper alone.
can i use this for 3/8 fuel line for my carbureted car?
Just bought some and love it. But I found out some places are selling bogus stuff for 1/2 of what the real deal costs
definitely need to be careful of that
Be careful buying on Amazon. There are different grades and wall thicknesses of NiCopp tubing.
Good tip! After to be careful buying anything on Amazon these days
Copper is perfectly fine for use in brake lines, thousands of people have been using it for years, if it does fail due to vibration it has been made incorrectly and contacting something other than its mounting/anchoring points, just like any other metal.
Nicopp bends great, better have a good quality double flaring tool though. Those you get from the rack at your local auto parts just make a mess. The stuff is too soft for a cheap tool to flare.
never has anyone discussed the quality and difference of copper nickel line material. Is it all the same?
Could you explain the question more?
Is that NiCopp nickel-copper tubing suitable for a fuel line? Thanks!
Well at 1:56 it does show it is suitable
i went to autozone and they said my 2001 chevy used 3/16 you say 1/4'' ...confused... i hope the roll i ordered is correct... everyone was just selling 3/16
what are the cons other than slightly pricier? there must be some downsides otherwise everyone and their cousin would be using nicopp, rubs through easily? cracks if a piece is bent a couple times? doesnt like vibration or needs to be secured way more than steel lines?
just bought a 96 dodge cummins and ripped the be off to replace with a flat deck and theres the factory line to the rear..basically dust now then someone replaced it with a new line that new line has since rusted thru, it was repaired with a union and the current line although it holds pressure im sure if i touch it will start leaking.. so new lines for sure before the flatdeck goes on
I've only heard a couple cons and one may be resolved. The first weakness is how soft it is (which makes it easy to work with) it is more susceptible to road debris and probably isn't a good solution for those that off-road. However, rust steal is even more weak. The other issue that we haven't experienced but received in a comment, that the dis-similar metals made the ends very hard to get off due to the metals bonding together. However, the same guy said that the new nicopp lines he got had different ends that appeared to be coated (as do ours) so he was curious how these would hold up. Not a problem unless you have to remove an old line for some reason. I just think most people aren't aware an alternative exists.
@@TheSundaeDrive thanks for the reply! 25ft of nicopp and an assortment of fittings on canadian amazon for 23$? seems cheaper than what ive paid for steel lines before.. as far as flaring, fittings, ect its all the same tooling and methods as the steel lines and no more difficult if not easier? i have had issues flaring steel lines with them being too squished, or lopsided or just not looking right.. i get it right eventually but usually takes a few tries per fitting
www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0829VG6H3/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3D4WU28DYXF1O&psc=1
OK, what about for a performance build? Could you run this on the track?
Yes I would feel safe running this. It meets SAE J1047 specifications and NiCopp is also on par with steel brake lines with regards to burst pressure and tensile strength. NiCopp is still ultimately softer than steel - which is why it is easier to bend - so you may want to be aware of stones and other debris that may damage it depending on the type of racing you are doing. For typical track racing it should do well.
I can tell that Ken Schrader uses NICOPP on his dirt race cars. I am not sure if he used it on his NASCAR vehicles when he raced in that circuit. I will try to find out.
Only con of having copper brake lines Is bending them Higher prone to pinching rather then bending
If you never pressed your own lines before You will be come a expert after 25 feet of test trys lol
Item number 2 If your going with copper lines because you want longer lasting Dip into getting Stainless steel flex lines to the calipers They dont rust And provide a quicker soild braking force with little foot to peddle use
Good points! 👍 I think Pete is going to be changing out the flex lines for SS soon
@@TheSundaeDrive I have a whole brake And fuel set up to do in the warmer months on a custom truck if i remember i will set up a video Keep yours coming All the best. Cheers!
so if i buy nicop for my 2001 silverado will the same fittings work that came with my original steel lines???
You'll need to get the right size line and fittings for your specific vehicle. As long as it is the same diameter and fitting it will bolt up to your stock calipers
@@TheSundaeDrive yes,i think i have ordered everything i will need...thanks
Awesome!
I am curious if this line would work as a EFI fuel line
No
Thanks for a clear and instructive video.
(Please lose the four measures of distracting, annoying, boring, repetitive music.)
Thanks for the feedback. Yea we’re more conscious of it nowadays. Sorry about that
Haynes Manual Fears ~ Loss of income to mechanics and refuses to provide any socket or wrench sizes for any tasks, yet Specifically says "do not use copper for brake lines." ~ So I missed out of NiCopp Fe. Made up my mind while using Poly-Armour that I would rather risk Copper Alloy than risk Obvious Future Rust. (The coating scrapes and scuffs like a regular plastic grocery bag wrapped around it.)
The rust belt is a lot bigger than that, it is pretty much the size of the salt belt.
Yeah you were right 👍
GM should have been sued for those brake lines. HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of GM trucks have had failed brake lines. There should be an industry standard for brake lines. My 2005 Silverado went right to the floor.. i mounted the curb on the side of the highway and went onto the grass to stop...
It's crazy they are allowed to produce break lines that fail catastrophically without any prior warning.
I agree. But there's also preventative maintenance. Some states even have inspections
@@Wickedjc2119 but not all sections of a brake line are visible. Some are behind components like gas tanks and frames and behind encapsulation panels.
@@petmitsu I understand that. But you could still see the condition of the rest of the line.
@@Wickedjc2119 sometimes just the rotted sections of a brake line are hidden and the good sections are not so one might think the whole line is ok because they see the good visible part. Understand?
rust through up north sure, but they are seldom found rusted through down south. All my vehicles which are considerably older than what you drive retain OE installed brake lines and they are as strong as the day they were installed by Chevrolet and Ford.
Just because steel is used does not equate to them rusting through and failing. The biggest problem for them is being up north were even the car themselves rust away.
That is definetely true. But they should offer a northern package or something (at an additional cost) to equip trucks that have to deal with salt and brine with brake lines that will last. I know this will never happen but dreaming lol
It's like Monel's inverse twin...
I've seen them turn green and corrode! I'll go Stainless thanks
Copper turns green but it doesn't rust through like regular steel. I believe we mentioned that in the video but maybe we forgot to. Stainless is definitely the best solution if you are able to run the pre-bent lines. Unfortunately, with my truck configuration there was no simple way to do it and this we a solution that worked really well for me.
@@TheSundaeDrive The problem with stainless is that even though it won't rust, it's brittle and doesn't flex. For short distances it's fine, like on motorcycles or even front lines on cars, but for longer runs like rear brakes and especially on larger vehicles the odds are good it will eventually crack as it won't flex enough with the suspension and frame. NiCopp might flex too much for certain applications, though, depending on the run. No perfect solution, but NiCopp is probably the best overall for most applications.
Good points! I guess there is never a perfect solution to anything
The outside forms what they call Patina which is harmless. The brake fluid inside the line prevents this from happening.
@@seanmurray4941 Yeah, it's corrosion, which has different properties in copper and nickel and most other metals than iron. The problem with iron corroding is that rust expands larger than the original iron, and does so with a lot of force, and in the process pulverizes the structure of the original iron. The corrosion that makes up the patina of copper is harder than the copper and protects the underlying metal from further exposure.
But brake fluid is highly hygroscopic; it attracts and holds water. That's why it's important to change the fluid every so often and to clean up spilled fluid on any steel if there are leaks, because it can really make it rust quickly. Brake systems are closed off but not perfectly, esp in the master cylinder, and so they do grab moisture over time and can accelerate rusting of already neglected brake systems.
How many feet do I need for my Silverado
Rolls usually come in 25 feet. I'm not aware of anyone selling NiCopp by the foot.
if these car manufacturers would just under coat those steel brake lines with a rust preventive primer then we would not have these rusted brake line problems, just had to replace mine and i used the nic copper lines.
That would definitely helped them last longer. The problem is if that undercoating gets knocked off from road debris, the lines will start to rust and they only have to rust through in one spot to fail.
dont know about other cars but my nissans and toyota brake lines are 90% covered in some kind of thick rubber casing the last 1-2 foot that goes out to the caliber isnt and i have to replace those rusted areas after a decade of winter usage.
You need to add all of New England to your map 0:42.
True!
You lost me at doing the whole brake line. Doing a proper double flare is perfectly safe. My rear lines went on my Subaru. The lines run through the interior of the car till they hit the back seat and go under.
There are people who put up videos that says this line rusted in a year
There are a lot of fake cheap cones knockoffs so make sure you are getting the real deal. No issues with ours many years later
how can i give a "Big like" ? i only see the regular size like button
😂😂 got us there
Can we see the pipe closer dude, i bet you stil didnt opened.🤔
Yeah, these bubble flairs are a bitch!
I've used these brake lines in two of my vehicles, and both of my vehicles feel like they have less braking performance. Has anyone else experienced this? I think these brake lines are great but are much less stiff than steel lines and therefore have less performance.
you have air in your lines......
Minnesota-rust
Why not paint the NiCop
It should be a crime that the manufacturer didn't use it
The dorman prebent stainless kit is only 65 online no flaring anything. This guy is a salseman
We were looking at stainless but it is super difficult to feed under the cab of the Silverado without lifting it. Some vehicles are probably easier.
The Dorman kits are made from Stainless Steel grade 304 which rusts. Try the AGS EZ Fit Kits. Video link: th-cam.com/video/s87C53ZNtbE/w-d-xo.html
That's good to know 👍👍
problem with stainless steel is getting the inverted flare to seal properly. Typically you have to crank down as hard as you can loosen up then retighten as stainless steel is very stout material and the inverted flare will not properly flare to its sealing surface unlike OE steel lines.
What a joke! Who the heck would expect to go through all this mess ! Ashamed on Chevy trucks for those models when they cut back on the safety ! I have 2003 suburban and it costed me arm and leg to get all the brake lines redone and now my fuel lines are next !! I lost the break 3 times and I could had been o serious accident bcz of the break lines were done in cheap ! After the third time I decided to just redo them all instead of patching them. Stainless steel performed lines costed me almost 400$ then 8 hours labor. I can’t trust Chevy any more after not having the break line serious issue under recall. By the way if that’s ok why can’t they keep putting those none coated lined in the new Chevy model trucks?
I know. It is a huge safety concern. I guess since the average user only keeps their vehicle for a few years they can justify it somehow. Did you get pre bent lines or did you bend and flair the stainless steel yourself?
The Sundae Drive yes I bought preformed lines from classic lines .com back in 2014 before doorman released same stainless kit that you now can get just from advance auto for around 100$ the kit is flared and ready for replacement. The big problem I had is to find a shop that does this type of work for all lines replacement. Most of the places I had to talk to were scratching their head on what’s the game plane to get them all done!
How did you get them under the cab?
so $50 an hour is an arm and a leg? its a 2003 you dont think a 15 year car would need brake lines to be redone anyway? that's Chevy fault? i think you made out in my book
Welding Junkie who said the shop charged me 50$ an hour? I paid 800$ for the entire job labor plus 400& for preformed lines kit!! Without mention down time to find a shop that can do the entire lines job. So don’t tell me it’s something normal ! Bcz if so why Chevy they’re now putting high quality lines instead of sticking with that crappy quality none coated lines? By the way I have 1995 Altima and 1997 Honda Accord both came with insulated break lines witch they can last life time of the vehicle. The bottom line Chevy lost my vote.
hhmmmm, no way around getting rust...how about COATINGS. Volvos dont rust and have 12 year warranty on rust. I wish more manufacturers would care a bit more. Ford used to galvanize their truck bodies, not anymore lol
That would be nice if manufacturers cared. Hardly any do anymore because consumers throw away
Brush-on undercoating
I am sick and tired of hearing from you young so called mechanics about copper brake lines. Heavy wall copper was used for years without any problems. Then came thin wall copper tubing at your local hardware stores with a warning of not to use for brake lines or limited usage. And dumb Fere would use it anyway. Then came the accident cause the line would rupture on use. Imagine that using straight copper lines that did not fail because they were the proper wall thickness !! So in reality this is the second generation or 2.0 version which most european car manufacturers have been using for years now. The alloy you are using is called coupronickel any alloy with a ration higher that sixty percent copper. Now finally the cheap pricks of US vehicle manufacturers are starting to use the product. One last thing, I have been using monel 60/40 nickel copper ratio line which is way stronger by a lot. I still have bet you three hundred feet on a spool that I bought at an auction thirty years ago. Still good and fairly easy to work with and resistance factor way off the charts. Just saying fella. Or you could do stainless steel and go that way with a comparable cost. I like the video too. VF
Good to know! Haven't been around that long to have that background info so thanks for sharing! Hopefully manufacturers start reverting back
Sure, there's a way to get around rust. Stop the ones putting the salt on the roads.
Thats an option lol. There are times it is needed for sure but they do it way too often when It isn't needed
They put it even in places the snow will melt in 2 days by itself. No excuse for that really. But up north where it'll stay iced for weeks without it i can see. These places down south seems as though it may just be to increase new car sales. There's times they'll spread stuff on the highways with hot weather in the forecast for the next day that'll melt it all. What a waste.
I sure wish I would have found your video before going to the 'Auto Parts' store to I would have been able to insist for it instead of the overpriced garbage they sold me and their overpriced garbage flaring tool!!! But as they say, beggars can't be choosers, hadn't I had been stuck with this emergency I wouldn't have wasted two weeks to get a job done that should have taken no more than a weekend!!!
But as this type of work is usually done in an emergency (when the line fails) it seems we buy what we can find and it ends up in disaster... So I went to the auto parts store, not the chain but THE place where I knew I should be able to find professional grade stuff, and they sold me this garbage coated steel line for $25 for a roll of 25 feet and it was HELL to flare, so much so that the tool they sold me for $70, which I fond out later was EXACTLY THE SAME as the cheap stuff sold in biog box stores for $20 (only the band name differed, even the packaging was identical!) "made of hardened steel", BENT and the die to form the flare BROKE in the tubing, and the SECOND TOOL IO GOT STARTED TO BEND JUST AS WELL, so much so that I had to form the flare 1/4 turn one way, remove tool, 1/4 turn the other way, 15 minutes per flare and several days and several feet of tubing transformed into flares later until I was able to make something close enough to OEM (even the clearance recommended wouldn't work, the serrated tubing jaw would would slip if bolts holding the two pieces together weren't totally were not bottomed out, and I had to drill a better shaped flare on the other side of the tool as the existing one was obviously not designed for double flaring) 🙄... A REAL NIGHTMARE, so much so that for days I'd dream that the car would be falling apart :-(
Lesson learned: Bad tools and Materials should simply be FORBIDDEN for all the misery they cause! Flaring tools should ONLY be made of real, hardened tool steel and brake lines, of this rust resistant, pliable but strong nickel copper stuff...
Anyway, it would have been nice to compare the prices between tubing types so that we could estimate the difference in cost but between you and me, is saving a dollar a foot worth the hassle? My horrible experience says the cheap stuff should not even be allowed to be sold, that's how awful it is :-( And as for the garbage tools they sell for flaring.. It should be CRIMINAL OFFENSE to sell something that is so goddamn bad that it would risk your safety making bad flares that are so badly formed they could break suddenly if you managed to get them installed :-( ...
What I can't understand is why don't that have tools for occasional use that are made or proper quality metal that actually work, like they exist for sockets and wrenches nowadays (gone are the days where you buy a socket that gets rounded out on stuck bold head)? Why do we have to chose between $20 to $40 garbage, and professional stuff you have to special order at more than 10 times the price?