Dana 44 Warn Manual Hub Install & Hub Rebuild
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ม.ค. 2021
- Here I walk through upgrading from a full time locked hub to Warn's 20990 Premium Manual Locking Hub. At the same time I rebuild the hub bearings and seals. This is on a 1979 Jeep Cherokee manual T18 with a Dana 20 transfercase.
Specialty socket used
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Great instructional video. It really helped me out with my 67 International pickup. It's pretty amazing that the Warn locking hub on my truck us almost identical to your much newer version.
Was really stuck wondering if I needed that spring thanks a shit ton man 🤛🏽
Awesome! Thanks for the comment.
Awesome vid, helped me a lot👍🏼
This video was of great help on my project tnx man.
Glad it helped!
The best video ,what I see about that.
Thanks!!
Really helpful, it’s interesting to me there’s no seal where the goes into the housing. I guess they just rely on that inner seal by the pumpkin for water mud etc not to get in?
That's it. The Dana 30 on most jeeps is this way too.
You were supposed to leave the spring in there.
Good Morning. got all the way to 30:14 and the first wheel I was doing went exactly as shown here but when I got to this part on the other side I spun it in the free switched it to lock and I could barely move it. I had to use a pry bar to move it. Now with that I have to said I have the front drive shaft off and the side I was working on up the other side on the ground. So I put the tire on drove it out of the garage in free with no problems. parked it and switched sides to lock and the side I had to use a pry bar on was making noise. can you explain what is going on here? is it something to do with the Differential or the drive shaft not being hooked up? any help here is appreciated
Sounds like it wasn't quite installed correctly or there might have been a manufacture defect but you shouldn't have to use a pry bar to move it. Then driving it might have forced something to break and that's what causing the noise. I think you'll have to pull it apart on that side and take a look in there. Hopefully nothing is broken and its something simple and obvious. Wishing the best for yah.
Great job. I have a question why is that your sleeve seats under the axel ? Mine is on top of the axel. Did you lower it? Or that is the correct way. I have a 1992 ram charger with a Dana 44 in front
Are you asking about the spring seat? Over the axle vs under? If that is the question the answer depends on the manufacture. In my case it’s a 1979 Jeep Cherokee and the spring sits under the axle. Other manufacturers will be different. Length can be different. High or low pinon also depends. But the internals and knuckles are all about the same. Knuckles can vary a little.
Nice video thank you. After you engage the the hub, how does it disengage itself without a spring to push?
Thanks. It’s a manual locking hub. So you have to by hand lock and unlock it. It doesn’t disengage itself.
it does have some spring tension to it. but it is manual coming out of lock.
I was wondering the same thing, without the spring to push the gear off the axle, it won't disengage. ATM I am missing one of those springs, it rotted away from previous owner removing them putting them in box, found them when i was rebuilding the axles, one rusted away. they are unontanable. trying get someone to give them up without buying whole axle like asking for LUNG
Well unfortunately I tossed mine otherwise I would have sent it to yah. I bet that happens a lot. You might post up in the Facebook groups and forums and just let people know you’re looking for one. Might be someone out there that has one or is about to do the Warn kit and won’t need theirs anymore.
Hello,
Thanks for the video I really appreciate you effort.
Can you please tell me what the exact size of the axle spindle socket is it ?
Great question. Its a specialty socket. I went and found it on Amazon and added the link to this videos description.
@@4HIGHGARAGE I really appreciate your help
So did you already install the part-time conversion on the transfer case or is that an upcoming video?
This Cherokee is a manual T18/Dana 20 transmission/transfer case combo.
When it comes th the disk brake shields, I forgot to take a picture and don’t have that little bolt for orientation reference. How could I find the correct way to install them ?
There should be a notch in the shield to clear the brake caliper. You could run without the shield. It just help keep debris off the disk rotor. But if you really want it I’d take the caliper bracket down to the hardware store and find a bolt that’ll replace it.
There are a few options from Warn for my vehicle starting at just over $100, around $400 for the top of the line.
What’s the difference?
If I’m not going to be seriously off-roading do I need the expensive option?
Man I wish I was a Warn rep but I'm not. When I went looking for my SJ there were two options and neither were $400 but the more expensive one did come with a lifetime warranty so I took that option. Wish I could be of more help but you might shoot Warn an email with links to all four and a request for some info on each. I've had good experiences in communication with them.
@@4HIGHGARAGE Okay that’s cool. I’ve got some learning to do.
excelente video y explicacion del mismo lo felicito por su tiempo dedicado, le quiero pedir un favorsote ,si fuera ta amable en decirme donde puedo comprar los retenes los seguros etc, aca en mexico como los pido por mensajeria tengo una troca igualita a la que uste armo. espero ansioso su respuesta que la pase muy bien señor. ya le di like y me suscribi
Lamento no poder indicarle la dirección correcta para las piezas en México. Claramente es más fácil aquí en los estados. Podría preguntarle a su mecánico local dónde obtienen sus piezas.
Any reason why my inner bearing seems to get stuck on the spindle before the hub is pushed all the way on? My bearings are timken 47 inner on a Dana 44. Pretty sure my inner race is all the way set too
Yah that should just slide into place with little effort. If there’s no obvious nicks or damage to the spindle you might use a pair of dial calipers to check the bearing vs the spindle. I would have to guess it’s the wrong size. Again if there’s no damage to either the bearing or spindle matting surface.
@@4HIGHGARAGE Thanks for the input. Upon closer inspection the old bearing is the same as the new, i guess when i tried sliding the hub on over the spindle it needed a little wiggle and slight push. Also i think i had so much grease on the spindle it was creating some extra friction.
@@tinkertime614 Excelent. Glad it worked out!!
Could you please state the year/make/model of vehicle being worked on, and also the part numbers of the bearings/seals etc. that you used.
I'm going to be working on a '96 F150 4X4 (front wheel bearings, races, seals), and I have found some inconsistencies in trying to identify which parts I will need.
It will very much be a similar process as this however this front Dana 44 is on a 1979 Jeep Cherokee. It might be best to pop your bearings and seals out and take them with you to the parts store for comparison. Even with the Jeep there are a couple of options if I remember correctly.
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My lockout wont go all the way in, any advice?
I had the same problem. Look at 27:30 time point in the video. I found the axle wasn't pushed out all the way.
Will this fit in dodge Dana 44
Might double check Warn’s website but the way I read it it’ll fit all Dana 44’s.
@@4HIGHGARAGE yes I think your right …from rebuilding mine twice yours looks indentical from the video just hard to tell in full detail