I know this isn't what you guys want from me, but I needed to do this conversion on my truck and I have a lot of fellow enthusiasts who need to know how to do this stuff too, so I filmed it. Hope you enjoy it. anyway. Thanks! At the very least you can laugh with me while I do dumb stuff 🙃
Love these videos SD😍 It's an honor to be part of this journey digitally, through the entire video I felt like you were teaching me & talking directly to me😍 It's AWESOME😍 Thanks SD, Stay Blessed❤
Keep these video coming! This one takes me back to when I was building a Dana 60 for my 2 door Tahoe. It has a Ford high pinion center, Chevrolet outers with Reid knuckles, and to top it off I bolted on some 90’s era dodge 3/4 ton wheels. I call it the Detroit Hat Trick axle. Lol I learned so much about the one ton axles back then. What fit what, what years had what options, widths, u-joint size, etc. Sadly I have forgotten most of it by now...
29:00 ... The "load" on those little bearings are when you are NOT in 4x4. So the shaft is sitting still, and the wheel is turning around the shaft (so there's not much load, ever-- but still a lot of free spinning). When you put it in 4x4-- the wheel and the shaft are turning together, so then that bearing is no longer spinning at that point. I have a 2002 F350 7.3L Diesel, which I believe has Dana 60 axle in the front --- and it has that same little needle bearing on my shafts, and they are very loud, because they lose their grease so easily, and then it's constantly spinning on those outer shafts when you're only in 2wd. It's really a bad design IMO-- because on my F350, it has those sealed hubs for the wheel bearings, which seem to last forever--- so that little needle bearing on the shaft ends up getting neglected, and wears a grove into those outer shafts. They should have designed that little bearing to be a sealed bearing, and it would have lasted so much longer.
In a very respectful way, I have to say it was pretty cool seeing you out of your normal element. It shows the sincerity of what you do and how when technicians weather professional or do it yourself run into issues there are always those willing to help. Definitely a different type of video but very much appreciated. I definitely look forward to the next video 😊
Honestly, you,Eric at SMA, Ivan at PHAD, just about any video y'all put out, we're gonna want to watch. Because you all are just that good. Wife and kids cleaned house the other day, and I tore it back up because I couldn't find your book I have.
Use both locking rings to double the pulling threads. I have also used a 2x4 against the spindle and hit that with a hammer. This is fun stuff. Thanks for bringing us along.
Cool rebuild and conversion. Modifying trucks / machines is pure mechanic essence which is find a way to make it work for what you need. Doesn’t get more America than that.
I've been following your content for years and like the fellow mentioned below it is great seeing you outside of the norm and sharing. This is some of the hardest most difficult mechanic work there is in my opinion and many can benefit from a few tips. This video would apply to quite a few axles including obs Ford, just slight variations.
I appreciate that! Thank you! I am by no means an expert with this stuff, but maybe that's good too? Showing the struggles and the doubt with things can help a DIYer in his driveway for sure.
I struggle with this type of work but I do still enjoy it sometimes. But you can certainly tell by watching me that I'm out of my element lol. Thank you!
I remember when I first started I was afraid of the torch and would take twice as long working stuff back and forth now I’m comfortable with it I use it daily here in New York
When using the puller hit the end of the threaded shaft, you notice the space between the top of the shaft and the hex. That is to allow for hammering on the shaft. The vibration helps free whatever your pulling. Hit it, tighten it, hit it again. You’ll see how much better it works.
29:00 ... The "load" on those little bearings are when you are NOT in 4x4. So the shaft is sitting still, and the wheel is turning around the shaft (so there's not much load, ever-- but still a lot of free spinning). When you put it in 4x4-- the wheel and the shaft are turning together, so then that bearing is no longer spinning at that point. I have a 2002 F350 7.3L Diesel, which I believe has Dana 60 axle in the front --- and it has that same little needle bearing on my shafts, and they are very loud, because they lose their grease so easily, and then it's constantly spinning on those outer shafts when you're only in 2wd. It's really a bad design IMO-- because on my F350, it has those sealed hubs for the wheel bearings, which seem to last forever--- so that little needle bearing on the shaft ends up getting neglected, and wears a grove into those outer shafts. They should have designed that little bearing to be a sealed bearing, and it would have lasted so much longer.
there's a really crappy seal thats supposed to seal the shaft and that little bearing. most people tear them apart and they aren't in there so out of sight out of mind. i think thats why that side was all rusted up.
@@richardcranium5839 Yeah, that was my point. The large sealed hub wheel bearings last so much longer than that little axle seal, and water gets into that little needle bearing and washes it out; It just needs so much more maintenance than the big bearings, so it gets absolutely neglected, and most people don't seem to know this-- hell, I didn't know it until I seen how bad my outer shafts were worn because of it............ One little trick you can do is try to get in there with a NEEDLE on your grease gun; Since the seal is probably shot anyway-- you can pierce the top of that seal on the inside and fill it back up with grease without taking it all apart. (at least on the dana 60 axle).. they should have made these with a grease zerk somewhere and it would have solved everything. I bet they have sold a LOT of those outer axles; because I have never personally seen one that wasn't worn, scratched or gouged, or just flat out destroyed. They almost always need outer axles-- and this video is no exception.. The REAL failure is that it doesn't have a RACE on the shaft. They chose to let the bearing ride directly onto the shaft, rather than having a simple hardened bearing race be pressed on there, like every other bearing surface ever made... Even worse, once the bearing or shaft gets worn -- it destroys the seal even more, since the shaft is no longer held in the center, it can move around a bit; it destroys the seal even more, which lets in more water, washing out all the grease, which wears down the shaft even faster and it's just a runaway issue.
About 13 minutes in when you said you thought the spindle was already moving, capitalize on your two jaw puller to tell you whether or not it did. If it did move, that means tension has been released on the puller. For the moments the puller doesnt' just fall off altogether, you'll feel the forcing screw turn easy for a bit more than it did and feel it out as you continue turning the screw, Return to chisel or hammer therapy tactics as needed along the way, but keep using the tension on the forcing screw to help tell you when. One thing I'd like to see you try out in a video is a 2", 20,000 rpm, .006" strand wire wheel on a die grinder for some of that fussy cleaning. Grainger has them and their part number is 3A204. Wear your safety glasses and expect to wear some strands eventually. But these wheels do a great job of fine cleaning without eating up the surface you're trying to preserve. With good throttle control of your die grinder at around 50%, it does amazing things with cleaning and preserving aluminum surfaces too. I'll be happy to donate and mail you one if you have a PO box I can send it to.
the loose fitting bearing cant you pop it into college put on lathe turned down to clean put weld to build up and re machine to size good practice for the students in the machine shop or shrink tube on have you seen cutting edge engineering and some of the repairs he s done on youtube
I have no idea but I somehow missed that video in my subscription box. That axle appears to be from a state where they live by "it can't be stuck if it's liquid". Like others already said, I also enjoy this kind of content. And honestly, video quality is not that important for me. More important is audio as well as the actual content. Just some things about me: I'm a DIY and enjoy working on my car nut work in IT. I most likely will never need to do most if not all of the diagnosis you do. However, I enjoy your content because I like to learn new stuff about things I'm interested in and you do a very good job of that. Also, some of the stuff like the way of thinking and how to approach a problem can also be (translated and) applied to other stuff like IT. Ex. finding the common thing about all the failed things (like a bad ground) and go from there. It's basically the same reason why I watch other automotive TH-camrs like Eric O., Ivan and ETCG (and many others). Doing that encouraged me to start working on my car in more depth as well. So, even though this does not involve scopes or scantools for thousands of dollars, it is still a great video as it shows problem solving and teaching regardless.
My 97 Isuzu Rodeo has a center axle disconnect like that. It's vacuum operated. I'm debating on welding it solid and just converting to manual locking hubs--- because at 320k miles-- that axle disconnect is trying to stop working on me.
First off, great video! It explained a lot of what i MAY be looking at doing in the fairly near future! I have a 90 w150, that i've swapped to '78 w200 axles. I've been through 2 front left u-joints, 2 front left outer shafts, and now 1 left inner shaft, due to the u-joints giving out. (I've made it a point to grease 'em, since the first one gave out and took the first outer shaft with it). This last time, i'm HOPING the busted inner shaft yoke was just weakened from the trauma, from the first u-joint failure. Both instances, the joint gave out, and out of necessity to get the truck to a trailer i had to drive on it... Aside from the fact that they're both "3/4-ton axles", can anyone tell me why i SHOULD look into doing what you've just done, opposed to converting my original CAD 44 to 8-lug? (These full-time 44 axle parts seem to be getting harder to get ahold of... i've bought all 3 shafts from torqueking, in the last 9 months) if anyone DOES have input for converting to the 8-lug, i'd greatly appreciate a list of NEEDED components! Thanks again, @scannerdanner!
INTELLECTUAL Sir ScannerDanner Tutorial great video 👍 Use super glue when you cut yourself Take care and have a great day INTELLECTUAL Sir ScannerDanner From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I still need to get me one of your books I’m a tech at a dealership and I always forget about it but I know it would help me greatly I’m not the main diag guy at my shop but I wouldn’t mind being it
@scannerdanner , hi am from across the pond in the uk and have a Land Rover discovery 3 , wished to take this opportunity to say how grateful I am to u , had an issue with my variable turbo actuator not working , with ur fantastic way of teaching by going through the canbus system step by step, had 120 ohms on the high can and 60 ohms on the low , got a detailed wiring diagram and started by disconnecting the battery and using a multimeter set to ohms I checked each wire from end to end , found a broken earth wire that the ECM used which was behind the front wheel arch liner , was over the moon and wished to thank u so much as before watching ur videos wouldn’t have known where to start , diagnostics wise I have a gap iid and been looking at the Autel MaxiCOM MK808TS: 2022 Bi-directional scanner as wanted something that is bi directional which would then allow me to activate items within the system, sorry I’m waffling , once again a million thks to u kind sir for sharing ur vast wisdom , stay safe and well and may ur channel go from strength to strength 👍👍
@@ScannerDanner , ur so welcome and felt it was the least I could do out of courtesy and appreciation to u kind sir , recommend ur channel at every opportunity on several Land Rover forums I belong to , recently got some of ur OTC test lights , still doing a lot of research on the bi directional scanners and hopefully will be able to order one very soon , have a great week 👍👍 PS, may i ask please do u happen to know when the OTC 3633-10 Replacement Bulbs might be back in stock as wish to order some as spares plse, as can’t seem to get them here in the uk , many thks
I know this isn't what you guys want from me, but I needed to do this conversion on my truck and I have a lot of fellow enthusiasts who need to know how to do this stuff too, so I filmed it. Hope you enjoy it. anyway. Thanks!
At the very least you can laugh with me while I do dumb stuff 🙃
Good content is good content 👍🍺
a change is as good as a rest its all good to watch and informative waiting for the next thanks
Love these videos SD😍
It's an honor to be part of this journey digitally, through the entire video I felt like you were teaching me & talking directly to me😍
It's AWESOME😍
Thanks SD, Stay Blessed❤
Keep these video coming! This one takes me back to when I was building a Dana 60 for my 2 door Tahoe. It has a Ford high pinion center, Chevrolet outers with Reid knuckles, and to top it off I bolted on some 90’s era dodge 3/4 ton wheels. I call it the Detroit Hat Trick axle. Lol
I learned so much about the one ton axles back then. What fit what, what years had what options, widths, u-joint size, etc. Sadly I have forgotten most of it by now...
29:00 ... The "load" on those little bearings are when you are NOT in 4x4. So the shaft is sitting still, and the wheel is turning around the shaft (so there's not much load, ever-- but still a lot of free spinning). When you put it in 4x4-- the wheel and the shaft are turning together, so then that bearing is no longer spinning at that point. I have a 2002 F350 7.3L Diesel, which I believe has Dana 60 axle in the front --- and it has that same little needle bearing on my shafts, and they are very loud, because they lose their grease so easily, and then it's constantly spinning on those outer shafts when you're only in 2wd. It's really a bad design IMO-- because on my F350, it has those sealed hubs for the wheel bearings, which seem to last forever--- so that little needle bearing on the shaft ends up getting neglected, and wears a grove into those outer shafts. They should have designed that little bearing to be a sealed bearing, and it would have lasted so much longer.
In a very respectful way, I have to say it was pretty cool seeing you out of your normal element. It shows the sincerity of what you do and how when technicians weather professional or do it yourself run into issues there are always those willing to help. Definitely a different type of video but very much appreciated. I definitely look forward to the next video 😊
Thank you John. This means a lot.
Honestly, you,Eric at SMA, Ivan at PHAD, just about any video y'all put out, we're gonna want to watch. Because you all are just that good. Wife and kids cleaned house the other day, and I tore it back up because I couldn't find your book I have.
Use both locking rings to double the pulling threads. I have also used a 2x4 against the spindle and hit that with a hammer. This is fun stuff. Thanks for bringing us along.
Agree! I meant to put a note in there to do that very thing!
Really enjoyed seeing you release your inner caveman with torch and sledge. You don't need no stinking scanner! Thanks for all the videos.
Thanks man
Sounds like your new friend is not just a wealth of great information but a super nice guy, too. You can never have too many good friends.
Didn't even see you pull out a scanner once or troubleshoot this problem... You just threw parts at it! 🤪🤣
🤣 I did!
Billy
The Mower Medic mentioned you and that is how I found this channel.
I throughly enjoyed watching you do some old fashioned wrenching, I’d love to watch more of these style videos if you wanted to film it
I have two more in this series coming up, so that's good to hear! Thank you
Great video Brotha! I actually met the owner of Timken at a Speedway fuel stop in Southbend ind. Super nice guy!
Cool rebuild and conversion. Modifying trucks / machines is pure mechanic essence which is find a way to make it work for what you need. Doesn’t get more America than that.
Awesome job on this video man! Tons of useful info/tips
I've been following your content for years and like the fellow mentioned below it is great seeing you outside of the norm and sharing. This is some of the hardest most difficult mechanic work there is in my opinion and many can benefit from a few tips. This video would apply to quite a few axles including obs Ford, just slight variations.
I appreciate that! Thank you! I am by no means an expert with this stuff, but maybe that's good too? Showing the struggles and the doubt with things can help a DIYer in his driveway for sure.
Dude - the camera work was fine - Liked the vid - we were not so sure you knew how to use a chisel or a BFH - now we know!
I struggle with this type of work but I do still enjoy it sometimes. But you can certainly tell by watching me that I'm out of my element lol.
Thank you!
Variety is good brother Paul. This is knowledge someone can use.
I remember when I first started I was afraid of the torch and would take twice as long working stuff back and forth now I’m comfortable with it I use it daily here in New York
Brass or lead hammers will be your best friend when you wanna beat on something but not damage whatever components you’re working on
When using the puller hit the end of the threaded shaft, you notice the space between the top of the shaft and the hex. That is to allow for hammering on the shaft. The vibration helps free whatever your pulling. Hit it, tighten it, hit it again. You’ll see how much better it works.
Just signed up for sd premium,that’s a good looking truck reminds me of the show Simon and Simon
If you need parts and expertise on these older trucks, TorqueKing 4x4 out of Billings MT is your place.
take it to a machine shop and have them spray weld it and turn it down, probably cheaper to buy a new shaft
29:00 ... The "load" on those little bearings are when you are NOT in 4x4. So the shaft is sitting still, and the wheel is turning around the shaft (so there's not much load, ever-- but still a lot of free spinning). When you put it in 4x4-- the wheel and the shaft are turning together, so then that bearing is no longer spinning at that point. I have a 2002 F350 7.3L Diesel, which I believe has Dana 60 axle in the front --- and it has that same little needle bearing on my shafts, and they are very loud, because they lose their grease so easily, and then it's constantly spinning on those outer shafts when you're only in 2wd. It's really a bad design IMO-- because on my F350, it has those sealed hubs for the wheel bearings, which seem to last forever--- so that little needle bearing on the shaft ends up getting neglected, and wears a grove into those outer shafts. They should have designed that little bearing to be a sealed bearing, and it would have lasted so much longer.
there's a really crappy seal thats supposed to seal the shaft and that little bearing. most people tear them apart and they aren't in there so out of sight out of mind. i think thats why that side was all rusted up.
@@richardcranium5839 Yeah, that was my point. The large sealed hub wheel bearings last so much longer than that little axle seal, and water gets into that little needle bearing and washes it out; It just needs so much more maintenance than the big bearings, so it gets absolutely neglected, and most people don't seem to know this-- hell, I didn't know it until I seen how bad my outer shafts were worn because of it............ One little trick you can do is try to get in there with a NEEDLE on your grease gun; Since the seal is probably shot anyway-- you can pierce the top of that seal on the inside and fill it back up with grease without taking it all apart. (at least on the dana 60 axle).. they should have made these with a grease zerk somewhere and it would have solved everything. I bet they have sold a LOT of those outer axles; because I have never personally seen one that wasn't worn, scratched or gouged, or just flat out destroyed. They almost always need outer axles-- and this video is no exception.. The REAL failure is that it doesn't have a RACE on the shaft. They chose to let the bearing ride directly onto the shaft, rather than having a simple hardened bearing race be pressed on there, like every other bearing surface ever made...
Even worse, once the bearing or shaft gets worn -- it destroys the seal even more, since the shaft is no longer held in the center, it can move around a bit; it destroys the seal even more, which lets in more water, washing out all the grease, which wears down the shaft even faster and it's just a runaway issue.
About 13 minutes in when you said you thought the spindle was already moving, capitalize on your two jaw puller to tell you whether or not it did. If it did move, that means tension has been released on the puller. For the moments the puller doesnt' just fall off altogether, you'll feel the forcing screw turn easy for a bit more than it did and feel it out as you continue turning the screw, Return to chisel or hammer therapy tactics as needed along the way, but keep using the tension on the forcing screw to help tell you when.
One thing I'd like to see you try out in a video is a 2", 20,000 rpm, .006" strand wire wheel on a die grinder for some of that fussy cleaning. Grainger has them and their part number is 3A204. Wear your safety glasses and expect to wear some strands eventually. But these wheels do a great job of fine cleaning without eating up the surface you're trying to preserve. With good throttle control of your die grinder at around 50%, it does amazing things with cleaning and preserving aluminum surfaces too. I'll be happy to donate and mail you one if you have a PO box I can send it to.
@13:55 trying to get the spindle off. i go in between two studs then again 180 out drill and tap for jack screws. no chance of hurting the spindle.
the loose fitting bearing cant you pop it into college put on lathe turned down to clean put weld to build up and re machine to size good practice for the students in the machine shop or shrink tube on have you seen cutting edge engineering and some of the repairs he s done on youtube
I have no idea but I somehow missed that video in my subscription box.
That axle appears to be from a state where they live by "it can't be stuck if it's liquid". Like others already said, I also enjoy this kind of content. And honestly, video quality is not that important for me. More important is audio as well as the actual content.
Just some things about me:
I'm a DIY and enjoy working on my car nut work in IT. I most likely will never need to do most if not all of the diagnosis you do. However, I enjoy your content because I like to learn new stuff about things I'm interested in and you do a very good job of that. Also, some of the stuff like the way of thinking and how to approach a problem can also be (translated and) applied to other stuff like IT. Ex. finding the common thing about all the failed things (like a bad ground) and go from there.
It's basically the same reason why I watch other automotive TH-camrs like Eric O., Ivan and ETCG (and many others). Doing that encouraged me to start working on my car in more depth as well.
So, even though this does not involve scopes or scantools for thousands of dollars, it is still a great video as it shows problem solving and teaching regardless.
Man what a great comment. Thank you so much!
*nut = but
They make a slide hammer attachment that screws to spindle to make that job butter to remove without damaging it.
My 97 Isuzu Rodeo has a center axle disconnect like that. It's vacuum operated. I'm debating on welding it solid and just converting to manual locking hubs--- because at 320k miles-- that axle disconnect is trying to stop working on me.
Looks nice and cool there Paul. 😂
yeah lol, been sitting on this for awhile
you can use a wheel cylinder hone to clean those u joint bores also its not too harsh
son of a b--tch I have one of those too lol, thanks for the tip
NP is new process (gear company) almost all ford dodges and some jeep and chevy uses thier transfer cases. they also made transmissions
WEEKEND FUN‼️😎
That's why I can't live without my copper hammers
Nice job Paul =)
There is a you tube channel the ram man has modern conversion kit really nice
First off, great video! It explained a lot of what i MAY be looking at doing in the fairly near future!
I have a 90 w150, that i've swapped to '78 w200 axles. I've been through 2 front left u-joints, 2 front left outer shafts, and now 1 left inner shaft, due to the u-joints giving out. (I've made it a point to grease 'em, since the first one gave out and took the first outer shaft with it). This last time, i'm HOPING the busted inner shaft yoke was just weakened from the trauma, from the first u-joint failure. Both instances, the joint gave out, and out of necessity to get the truck to a trailer i had to drive on it...
Aside from the fact that they're both "3/4-ton axles", can anyone tell me why i SHOULD look into doing what you've just done, opposed to converting my original CAD 44 to 8-lug? (These full-time 44 axle parts seem to be getting harder to get ahold of... i've bought all 3 shafts from torqueking, in the last 9 months) if anyone DOES have input for converting to the 8-lug, i'd greatly appreciate a list of NEEDED components!
Thanks again, @scannerdanner!
I used to like doing all of this stuff. At 70 not so much haha.
INTELLECTUAL Sir ScannerDanner
Tutorial great video 👍
Use super glue when you cut yourself
Take care and have a great day
INTELLECTUAL Sir ScannerDanner
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
I like the videos
That is one sexy truck Paul! Damn.
you just stay away from the gas tank 🤣
@@dznuttzonyachin7499 You mean the exhaust pipe.
@@LynxStarAuto yes ... keep your mouth off the tailpipe 🤣
Good lord! What lake was that Dana pulled out of?😜
Haha right? Welcome to the north east!
I still need to get me one of your books I’m a tech at a dealership and I always forget about it but I know it would help me greatly I’m not the main diag guy at my shop but I wouldn’t mind being it
Thank you Jay!
Wo man
Jesus man how old is that box 🤣
30 years I think
👌👌
It's such a pain tracking down parts to swap these back.
I have all the parts you need 😉
Paul ...buddy if you ever need any help or anything dont hesitate to ask
thank you Nick!
Hello
Whats the Facebook group I'm having trouble finding rotors for my truck
Tin Grill Dodge Trucks (18k members)
@scannerdanner , hi am from across the pond in the uk and have a Land Rover discovery 3 , wished to take this opportunity to say how grateful I am to u , had an issue with my variable turbo actuator not working , with ur fantastic way of teaching by going through the canbus system step by step, had 120 ohms on the high can and 60 ohms on the low , got a detailed wiring diagram and started by disconnecting the battery and using a multimeter set to ohms I checked each wire from end to end , found a broken earth wire that the ECM used which was behind the front wheel arch liner , was over the moon and wished to thank u so much as before watching ur videos wouldn’t have known where to start , diagnostics wise I have a gap iid and been looking at the Autel MaxiCOM MK808TS: 2022 Bi-directional scanner as wanted something that is bi directional which would then allow me to activate items within the system, sorry I’m waffling , once again a million thks to u kind sir for sharing ur vast wisdom , stay safe and well and may ur channel go from strength to strength 👍👍
This is awesome! Thanks for sharing this with me
@@ScannerDanner , ur so welcome and felt it was the least I could do out of courtesy and appreciation to u kind sir , recommend ur channel at every opportunity on several Land Rover forums I belong to , recently got some of ur OTC test lights , still doing a lot of research on the bi directional scanners and hopefully will be able to order one very soon , have a great week 👍👍 PS, may i ask please do u happen to know when the OTC 3633-10 Replacement Bulbs might be back in stock as wish to order some as spares plse, as can’t seem to get them here in the uk , many thks
@@garystuart226 thanks so much Gary!
contact adam79 he fixes thing like the axle shaft. I've seen him do some really messed up pieces. he would fix that with no problem.
1st
Numberplates = "Bitsa"
That’s stinks about the stub shaft, you could hear the disappointment in your voice
Who cares if it is not 4K? Your video could not be better in 4K than in FHD.
The quality is dependent on the content, not the presentation!
It’s not gonna work man
DUDE This is so 80's me
Next stop, Redneck Yacht Club off Bermont road in Punta Gorda!
🤣