Xbox One Original Power Supply Repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 พ.ย. 2020
- Trouble shooting and repair of a A original Xbox One power supply brick. Hey I enjoy repairing electronics as a hobby, and decided to video some of them to hopefully help other people repair things too.
Disclaimer: I am not a professional, everything you do is at your own risk. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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Thanx cool video , add another angle (table view) cam on table . But very informative thanx again
Noted! I am working on better cameras and microphones, its a slow process.
What would you think could cause the issue if the light goes out just by plugging it into the console? It’s orange once plugged to the wall, but as soon as the cable plugs into Xbox, the light goes out before hitting power. Same thing on 2 different xboxes and other supply works fine so not a short in the console.
That is most likely bulged capacitors inside the power brick, it would mean they're shorted out. For that you'd have to open the power supply. If you're going to do that, make sure you look up various videos before doing it. You'll want to leave it unplugged for like 20 minutes before opening it so you don't get shocked by a capacitor discharging.
What can I do if mine is co mlm completely red? It's a 3rd party brand called Ponkor. It fell once today and it's been red ever since
See you finally got you a de-soldering pump, nice. A quick tip for those, DON'T use flux and then suck anything up.... if so you will be taking it apart and cleaning the diaphragm. Just saying.
Nice video, SMPS can be a devil sometimes.
Oh yeah, meant to say also you can solder with the de-soldering pump also, just saying
Good to know, thanks!
Thanks for the detailed video. What was that adhesive you applied to the caps?
E6000, find it at hobby and craft stores, Walmart, and online.
You all prolly dont care but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I somehow forgot the login password. I would love any tips you can offer me.
@Casen Franco instablaster =)
@Robert Sincere I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Robert Sincere It did the trick and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account :D
I have an adjustable soldering iron that's 110v 60w, what temp do I need to have it at to set it to remove the metal heat shield to get to the bottom board and also the temp to solder at? Thank for the video
300C or 575F is a good starting point. You will need to ajust depending on how fast your iron can recover heat.
My screws are on entirely too tight. Is there any way to get it off?
I have the same issue but I still have that orange light… I replaced the same capacitors
Had the same problem and replaced the capacitors. Orange light still turns off when I short the connector. Did I do the capacitors wrong or is there something else I should test? Thanks!
Its should go to white light.
@@Crazylogix007 yes I know, but it's staying orange after replacing the capacitors. What should I check next? Totally possible I didn't install the capacitors properly...very amateur electrician here
Tengo el mismo problema y no encontré capacitores de 16v y utilizó 25v 2200uf pero sigue sin funcionar alguna idea 💡?
Si yo tengo una!
Can you give a link or website where you got your capacitors
Mouser and digikey are good suppliers.
@@Crazylogix007 thank you very much
hello everyone, very good video, I have exactly the same problem, those three inflated capacitors at the output, I changed them for new ones with the same values and when I connected the source back to the Xbox smoke came out, but something very curious happened! !!, now only one capacitor that I changed has burst, my question is, what could have caused this???, why now only one has burst??, the polarities are correct and it does not touch any solder, nor are there traces of tin, I have already tried and measured everything and I can't find the problem, according to what I read out there, it could be an optocoupler in poor condition, could it be??? And what causes the three capacitors in that part to inflate???, anyway, I would appreciate your help or that of the people subscribed to this channel, thanks in advance and greetings from Argentina.....
Just remove the damp capacitors