This is one of the BEST vehicle repair videos I've seen! Great detail including sizes and the zoom in quality with perfect lighting and no shadows is what separates you from the others. Plus, you fast forward or skip showing the tedious wrench turning making your videos an efficient and effect use of time. Based on the quality of this video, I will SUBSCRIBE to see your other stuff!
You probably dont give a shit but does anyone know a method to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot my password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
My brother translates this because I will write it to you in Spanish!!! Busqué muchos videos para saber como llegar a la EGR y este es el mejor. Te felicito por la manera tan sencilla de explicar y de grabar. Mucha suerte y sigue grabando, eres una máquina 😎👊🏼
I was stubborn and didnt wanna remove the radiator hose. Mainly cause I wasnt planning on getting the EGR valve today but I did a side job and ended uo getting the money to get the EGR valve. I didnt wanna lose a lot of coolent cause I only had half a jug left and I didnt even know I had to remove that little hose to get it out. I literally just went in blind and watch a bit of your video. I saw I was on the right track but didnt bother taking off the radiator hose. Thanks for the vid dude
@MogulOX yeah I did. Thing is though I used a 1/4 ratchet and a shallow 10 mm. To give it leverage i used 2 3/8s short extensions and a 1/2 10mm then the put them on the handle of my ratchet and broke the bolt loose. The space issue starts coming into play when you have the bolt almost out. At which point you take the ratchet off of there, then I used a 10mm open end wrench to get it off the rest of the way. But you have to take your time cause it's very finicky when you do it like that. Honestly if I had my 10mm ratcheting wrench with me, it probably could've saved myself more time. Or I'd I had a swivel. But yeah you don't have to take off the radiator hose. You can finesse it, you just gotta take your time.
@MogulOX OH also, idk if this is the same for the Mazda 6, it probably is (I have a Mazda 3. But I also had to remove the wire harness that goes to the injectors then remove the other half that goes to the ignition coils and purge valve (and some other stuff I can't remember. And I moved the coolent hose (you can literally take it out of those little clamps that holds it to the radiator and hook it against the plastic piece that holds on your engine cover.) that runs from the overflow tank amd all the way around back to the heater. Once you get all that outta the way that also makes it so much easier.
@MogulOX I still. Ended up loosing some coolent cause there a small coolent line that runs from the throttle to the EGR valve. So that's inevitable. But it's better then dumping it all out
I had to change out my egr on a 2008 mercury mariner, all the posted videos didn't look ANYTHING like mine, yours did. While not exact, the parts that mattered were spot on, like the coolant port directly in front of the second screw. I also used your makeshift tool idea to break it loose. I ended up untwisting the screw out by hand the rest of the way.
Wow this was a great video my son just purchased a Mazda and it had a egr problem watching this video helped me complete the job thanks a lot bless you brother
I got it out with a standard quarter inch ratchet and shallow 10mm socket and didn't need to take out the whole battery/terminal. Trick was to take the Black Sensor piece off the top of the EGR Valvw, it's 4 screws this goves you much more room to the bolt.
I’m totally going to have to use your trick. It’s no fun collecting all those socket adapters and I think it’ll be tougher to unscrew the bolts with no space and risk losing the rig inside the engine compartment
I have a 2008 Ford Escape with the same engine - I figured out a way to remove that difficult bolt. First, remove the air box cover, the battery and battery tray. Now remove that coolant hose - it'll dump a bunch of coolant so put some rags directly underneath and a tray to catch anything else from spilling onto the ground below. Now to get that bolt out, you need a bench grinder or some sort of grinding tool - find a cheap socket extension and grind it down about 25% thinner, then take your 10mm socket and grind it down so it is shallow, just deep enough to go over the head of the bolt (take the front bolt off to check) - now you should be able to easily get that in there and back that bolt off! I spent many hours trying to figure this out, including using the exact method mentioned in this video, which did not work for me (could not get enough torque on the bolt to turn it at all).
What a pia this was to do. That bolt was so stuck on mine. Needed to remove the hose in front of it that was held on by 3 bolts. Meaning battery removal, tray, motor mount support. Finally got a straight shot at it with that hose removed. His contraption didn't work even after trying all morning. Now, hopefully all this work putting it back together will reduce the rough idle problem I have. Let's see.
It might be easier to take it off from throttle body to make a room to take off the EGR valve rather than battery and battery box with a lot of cable and fuse box (means a lot of work), when throttle body off, you can also clean it as well, make it part of the job. Have you tried spray it with CRC intake cleaner to clean the EGR? Which one is better compare to brake cleaner?
Hi Rudi Lam, you might be right about taking the throttle off. To my knowledge Intake cleaner and brake cleaner are the same. Could you clarify that? Thank you.
Anthony Awada Hi Anthony, thanks for your reply, according to my research on forum that the brake cleaner has a lot more chemical which is make difference ingredients between brake cleaner and throttle body cleaner, but i believe that brake cleaner more stronger than throttle body cleaner itself, but im not really sure, so i asking you before have you try CRC thorttle body cleaner, because im not really sure about those 2 cleaners to remove the thick carbon on EGR valve. Thanks for sharing.
Rudi Lam So I have used CRC throttle body cleaner on throttle body before and I wasn't impressed. It didn't clean anywhere near what the brake cleaner did. That's why I never went back. I believe the throttle body cleaner might be weaker to not damage any electronics near the the throttle body.
@@AnthonyAwada ...and not to dry out the rubber sealants, which you can't avoid if you're letting the brake cleaner on for too long. CRC cleaner is safer when the rubber parts are being exposed.
I did this job, just replaced the old with a new EGR, on a 2008 Mazda 6 with the 2.3. I'm here to warn ya.....Buy a small tube of water pump gasket maker. Permatex or whatever. And put a consistent thin bead of that stuff on both sides of that crappy thin metal 'gasket.' Finger tighten it, wait a day, then torque it down. Why? Because coolant flows through that EGR housing. That's why. And be very very very careful about working that difficult lower bolt back in. Mine crossthreaded even though I thought i WAS being careful. Couldnt get it to go more than 2/3 of the way in. So I ended up having to use washers under the head in order for it to hold down the EGR nice and tight. Because wouldnt you know it thats where the port on the head for the coolant is. SO the first time I tried this it was leaking coolant and I had to re do it with gasket maker. I even put high temp thread sealer on that bottom bolt because it looked to me like that hole actually may penetrate the water jacket in the head. Couldnt be sure but wasnt taking any chances. My second go at it has held up with zero problems.
Sirs,, based on your respective experience, would it be better for my 15 years duratec engine if i just block these two holes? Would it give a better iddle & better MPG if i block these holes with thin metal plate? Thanks
Damn so it was this the whole time, I’ve replaced so much stuff tryna fix a rough idle and car spuddering while accelerating, I changed maf sensor, air filter. And fluids and everything.
Hi, after watching this video I'm trusting you on this! I have a couple questions about my Mazda 5 2L Diesel 2007. I'm by no means a car guy, at all, but I learn quickly and I have a fair amount of mechanic friends who can help me out with the technical stuff. Right now, I'm just trying to get a better picture of whats wrong with my car. A couple symptoms are: Sometimes becomes incredibly weak, I need about 4000RP to be able to change to the next gear for the car to move at all. When the car behaves that way it also puffs out really black exhaust, which from my understanding means the fuel/air ratio is off. Now, I don't know if it's too little air or too much fuel but I've checked the Air Flow sensor in the engine compartment and that one is fine. Some sources say it's the EGR Valve and others say it could be an injection problem or the lambda sensor. The weird thing though is that the car returns to normal after an undefinite amount of time. Any thoughts? Anybody can give their thoughts. :) Thanks guys!
@@AnthonyAwada seems like it's a mixture of different things, I've had it checked a little and have tried to read up on this myself. Intercooler was blown open which caused the wrong air pressure, which then caused the engine to miscalculate air/fuel ratio. Now, however, the turbo seems broken and maybe the headgasket as well. Might be because dirt and smutt got into the system via the open intercooler. That's an update so far atleast. The car is totality undrivable at the moment.
Obd2 reader says EGR system failed, I'm noticing an increase in fuel consumption but no check engine light. You think it's worth checking the EGR and maybe do a bit of cleaning?
Absolutely! Sometimes the egr is working just enough to not throw a code but not at full efficiency. Could also be a good time to do a tune up (spark plugs, air filter, etc).
Excellent video, mines throwing a engine light for awhile now and I’m going to tackle this after doing the same on my defender. What’s the odds of the motor in the egr being stuffed from pushing a stuck valve? Don’t want to really strip it and reassemble without a degree of certainty that it’ll still open and close once cleaned.
If you want to check the egr for leaks get small paint brush and brush some washing up liquid around the seal and it will blow bubbles then you can see if needs tightening any more when tight just rinse off because it can crowled on Some metals. I wondering you could use one of the flexible drill Extensions, I know you can get sockets to fit then
Thanks Anthony. Looks like tons of fun. After seeing the insides of this EGR valve I am wondering if you decided to do this job because of a code P0401 or because you noticed the cold weather RPM part you mentioned. SInce you seem to know your GH1s I wonder if you've ever separated the front lower control arm ball joints (both of them).
Did you do anything to clean out the wd40 and brake cleaner from inside the EGR? Since those are degreasers, would it wreck things to leave it in there? Do you just wipe it out with a microfibre rag, or dare I saw spray bottle a tiny amount of water to rinse out and then dry?
Hey Gavin, great question. The last cleaner is used was soapy water to remove all oily products. Realistically, everything is going to get hot and evaporate.
Hey awesome video it helped me a lot I got the exact same car! Just a got some questions. I took mines out cleaned it. I just got the code again today after 2 weeks of cleaning it, do you think I need to replace ? and also when I’ve been running my car for like 15-20 minutes I get a beeping in my car, do you think it’s related ?
Ismael Hurtado Hi Ismael, I'm afraid of you kept cleaning it and no codes have gone away. Then it might be time for a new one. I would check the hoses and other culprits before replacing though. What kind of beeping noise are you getting?
So what does it mean when you take the egr valve off and clean it and put it back in and water pours out it? Replace egr valve? It wasnt leaking prior to this just had the crappy idle and rough running conditions.
Hello my mazda 5 2007 diesel start normally but will not receive gas at all barely reaches speeds up to 2000 rpm, stinks and smokes gray-white smoke, after waiting a while everything is normal. Is it an egr valve?
What is supposed to be on the square blank plate just above the Egr valve. I have a 2011 Mazda 5 and it is leaking coolant from somewhere in that area.
That block delivers coolant to the block and back. I doubt the block is causing the leak as they are made of aluminum. I'd check the hoses going into and out of it as well as the clamps. Hope this helps!
@@atomicdeath10 wow, I've never seen one Crack before. Mine is made of aluminum. Maybe different years had different designs or maybe yours had an aftermarket.
I just got my egr valve replaced but it still gives me some issues.... it drives fine at first like I'll go to a destination like the store for 30 minutes and crank it up and it acts differently like a subtle shake and some gas smell on the ride home.... any suggestions?
Hey Keeper, guess what, I am having having the same idle issue again just near 1.5 years later. Had the Stealership do the EGR replacement in Dec '17 and guess what its doing the same idle issue with the strange smell of rich fuel smell. I also have erratic RPMs sometimes when I go into neutral. I am fixing this one more time and it should last me another year. Just long enough for me to go Honda or Toyota and never buy Mazda ever again. Thats 2 damn cars (Tribute and the 3) that have plagued me with idle issues which were tough to fix.
Maybe you should learn about cars and preventative maintenance instead of thinking buying a different brand will solve your problem. How fucking stupid
Cordial saludo, tengo un Mazda 6 con 100 mil km, cada cuánto se debe limpiar está válvula? Cuáles son los problemas comunes que se producen cuando está válvula está sucia?... Te agradezco, excelente día.
@@AnthonyAwada When you removed the EGR valve, did antifreeze come out? I noticed some in the video when you was removing the part. Trying to figure out if this is my problem.
Anytime I do cleaning of parts like this I always use MAF sensor cleaner, TB cleaner or electric cleaner, cleans really well, dried fast and leaves no residue
This is the only video i saw that covered the exact motor( 2.3 ) of my Ford Escape 08. Huge thanks for this video !!!
This is one of the BEST vehicle repair videos I've seen! Great detail including sizes and the zoom in quality with perfect lighting and no shadows is what separates you from the others. Plus, you fast forward or skip showing the tedious wrench turning making your videos an efficient and effect use of time. Based on the quality of this video, I will SUBSCRIBE to see your other stuff!
Thank you, Wil for the kind words. I am honored to reach such a large audience and help many people out.
Also check out chrisfix same quality
@@AnthonyAwada does coolant leak everywhere? How do I get around that if it does
You probably dont give a shit but does anyone know a method to log back into an instagram account?
I was stupid forgot my password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Ishaan Gianni Instablaster ;)
My brother translates this because I will write it to you in Spanish!!!
Busqué muchos videos para saber como llegar a la EGR y este es el mejor.
Te felicito por la manera tan sencilla de explicar y de grabar.
Mucha suerte y sigue grabando, eres una máquina 😎👊🏼
I used a Valvoline carb and throttle body cleaner to clean the EGR on my 2003 Mazda 6, and made it look almost brand new and shiny.
I was stubborn and didnt wanna remove the radiator hose. Mainly cause I wasnt planning on getting the EGR valve today but I did a side job and ended uo getting the money to get the EGR valve. I didnt wanna lose a lot of coolent cause I only had half a jug left and I didnt even know I had to remove that little hose to get it out. I literally just went in blind and watch a bit of your video. I saw I was on the right track but didnt bother taking off the radiator hose. Thanks for the vid dude
Did you get it off without removing the hose?
@MogulOX yeah I did. Thing is though I used a 1/4 ratchet and a shallow 10 mm. To give it leverage i used 2 3/8s short extensions and a 1/2 10mm then the put them on the handle of my ratchet and broke the bolt loose. The space issue starts coming into play when you have the bolt almost out. At which point you take the ratchet off of there, then I used a 10mm open end wrench to get it off the rest of the way. But you have to take your time cause it's very finicky when you do it like that. Honestly if I had my 10mm ratcheting wrench with me, it probably could've saved myself more time. Or I'd I had a swivel. But yeah you don't have to take off the radiator hose. You can finesse it, you just gotta take your time.
@MogulOX OH also, idk if this is the same for the Mazda 6, it probably is (I have a Mazda 3. But I also had to remove the wire harness that goes to the injectors then remove the other half that goes to the ignition coils and purge valve (and some other stuff I can't remember. And I moved the coolent hose (you can literally take it out of those little clamps that holds it to the radiator and hook it against the plastic piece that holds on your engine cover.) that runs from the overflow tank amd all the way around back to the heater. Once you get all that outta the way that also makes it so much easier.
@MogulOX I still. Ended up loosing some coolent cause there a small coolent line that runs from the throttle to the EGR valve. So that's inevitable. But it's better then dumping it all out
I had to change out my egr on a 2008 mercury mariner, all the posted videos didn't look ANYTHING like mine, yours did. While not exact, the parts that mattered were spot on, like the coolant port directly in front of the second screw. I also used your makeshift tool idea to break it loose. I ended up untwisting the screw out by hand the rest of the way.
Wow this was a great video my son just purchased a Mazda and it had a egr problem watching this video helped me complete the job thanks a lot bless you brother
Congratulations on your purchase!
How you know it was a problem
I got it out with a standard quarter inch ratchet and shallow 10mm socket and didn't need to take out the whole battery/terminal. Trick was to take the Black Sensor piece off the top of the EGR Valvw, it's 4 screws this goves you much more room to the bolt.
I’m totally going to have to use your trick. It’s no fun collecting all those socket adapters and I think it’ll be tougher to unscrew the bolts with no space and risk losing the rig inside the engine compartment
Excellent DIY video. Creative socket extension to get to an obstructed bolt.
Subscribed. You described the symptoms perfectly for the people who dont know. It can also cause misfires and rough idle loss of power in acceleration
Thank you! Let me know if you have any questions!
@@AnthonyAwada would it cause it to drive fine but after a drive and park it trys to stall but still starts and runs?
I have a 2008 Ford Escape with the same engine - I figured out a way to remove that difficult bolt. First, remove the air box cover, the battery and battery tray. Now remove that coolant hose - it'll dump a bunch of coolant so put some rags directly underneath and a tray to catch anything else from spilling onto the ground below. Now to get that bolt out, you need a bench grinder or some sort of grinding tool - find a cheap socket extension and grind it down about 25% thinner, then take your 10mm socket and grind it down so it is shallow, just deep enough to go over the head of the bolt (take the front bolt off to check) - now you should be able to easily get that in there and back that bolt off! I spent many hours trying to figure this out, including using the exact method mentioned in this video, which did not work for me (could not get enough torque on the bolt to turn it at all).
Do you actually have to remove the coolant hose though? I’m not tryna buy coolant aswell trying to take one part off my engine
great production on your video. concise and very helpful.
Great video! Going to try that swivel socket combo tomorrow on my 2008 ford fusion. Its basically the same as the Mazda 6.
What a pia this was to do. That bolt was so stuck on mine. Needed to remove the hose in front of it that was held on by 3 bolts. Meaning battery removal, tray, motor mount support. Finally got a straight shot at it with that hose removed. His contraption didn't work even after trying all morning. Now, hopefully all this work putting it back together will reduce the rough idle problem I have. Let's see.
chiesel gasket remover , or engine degreaser then brake clean , that is the stuff i would use !! good job
Bro I gotta think you.. It took me n my brother hours to try n get that bolt off.. Thanks bro. You the realist 😎💪
Glad I could help, George :)
Good vid!!! I've had great luck with maf cleaner!!!
Thank you... ur video finally help me about my issue
We use mazdamenders jiza clean to clean the carbon off/out on the EGR valves, inlets, throttle body and engine bays, good vid to a very fiddly job.M-m
It might be easier to take it off from throttle body to make a room to take off the EGR valve rather than battery and battery box with a lot of cable and fuse box (means a lot of work), when throttle body off, you can also clean it as well, make it part of the job.
Have you tried spray it with CRC intake cleaner to clean the EGR? Which one is better compare to brake cleaner?
Hi Rudi Lam, you might be right about taking the throttle off.
To my knowledge Intake cleaner and brake cleaner are the same. Could you clarify that? Thank you.
Anthony Awada Hi Anthony, thanks for your reply, according to my research on forum that the brake cleaner has a lot more chemical which is make difference ingredients between brake cleaner and throttle body cleaner, but i believe that brake cleaner more stronger than throttle body cleaner itself, but im not really sure, so i asking you before have you try CRC thorttle body cleaner, because im not really sure about those 2 cleaners to remove the thick carbon on EGR valve.
Thanks for sharing.
Rudi Lam So I have used CRC throttle body cleaner on throttle body before and I wasn't impressed. It didn't clean anywhere near what the brake cleaner did. That's why I never went back. I believe the throttle body cleaner might be weaker to not damage any electronics near the the throttle body.
@@AnthonyAwada ...and not to dry out the rubber sealants, which you can't avoid if you're letting the brake cleaner on for too long. CRC cleaner is safer when the rubber parts are being exposed.
Right now you're looking like a genius in my world. How the heck did you think of that combination of socket parts to get that back bolt
I did this job, just replaced the old with a new EGR, on a 2008 Mazda 6 with the 2.3. I'm here to warn ya.....Buy a small tube of water pump gasket maker. Permatex or whatever. And put a consistent thin bead of that stuff on both sides of that crappy thin metal 'gasket.' Finger tighten it, wait a day, then torque it down. Why? Because coolant flows through that EGR housing. That's why. And be very very very careful about working that difficult lower bolt back in. Mine crossthreaded even though I thought i WAS being careful. Couldnt get it to go more than 2/3 of the way in. So I ended up having to use washers under the head in order for it to hold down the EGR nice and tight. Because wouldnt you know it thats where the port on the head for the coolant is. SO the first time I tried this it was leaking coolant and I had to re do it with gasket maker. I even put high temp thread sealer on that bottom bolt because it looked to me like that hole actually may penetrate the water jacket in the head. Couldnt be sure but wasnt taking any chances. My second go at it has held up with zero problems.
Thank you very much for posting - very clear.
Thank you, Silvio Roesler
Incredibly clear and precise. Huge thanks.
Thank you so much David!
Sirs,, based on your respective experience, would it be better for my 15 years duratec engine if i just block these two holes?
Would it give a better iddle & better MPG if i block these holes with thin metal plate?
Thanks
How did it go mate?
Damn so it was this the whole time, I’ve replaced so much stuff tryna fix a rough idle and car spuddering while accelerating, I changed maf sensor, air filter. And fluids and everything.
yeah, it sucks.
Anthony is a bar tender on his off days. "1 part WD-40 to 2 parts Brak Kleen, shaken over ice and served immediately for a well rounded flavor"
Hi, after watching this video I'm trusting you on this!
I have a couple questions about my Mazda 5 2L Diesel 2007.
I'm by no means a car guy, at all, but I learn quickly and I have a fair amount of mechanic friends who can help me out with the technical stuff.
Right now, I'm just trying to get a better picture of whats wrong with my car.
A couple symptoms are:
Sometimes becomes incredibly weak, I need about 4000RP to be able to change to the next gear for the car to move at all. When the car behaves that way it also puffs out really black exhaust, which from my understanding means the fuel/air ratio is off. Now, I don't know if it's too little air or too much fuel but I've checked the Air Flow sensor in the engine compartment and that one is fine. Some sources say it's the EGR Valve and others say it could be an injection problem or the lambda sensor.
The weird thing though is that the car returns to normal after an undefinite amount of time.
Any thoughts? Anybody can give their thoughts. :) Thanks guys!
Hi, I am by no means a diesel expert. Is the car throwing any codes?
@@AnthonyAwada seems like it's a mixture of different things, I've had it checked a little and have tried to read up on this myself. Intercooler was blown open which caused the wrong air pressure, which then caused the engine to miscalculate air/fuel ratio. Now, however, the turbo seems broken and maybe the headgasket as well. Might be because dirt and smutt got into the system via the open intercooler.
That's an update so far atleast. The car is totality undrivable at the moment.
My plastic intake manifold melted where the exhaust gas enters via egr valve. I wonder if it’s a failed egr or something else. What do you think?
Would the antifreeze leaking from the hose cause any damage to my car?
Against paint it is no go, if you leave it, it will destroy the paint.
It helps to drain the coolant first and removed air duct assembly
Can it be cleaned by just removing the 4 screws at the Top of the valve???
That’s the electronic part of the EGR and should never be opened. Hope that helps.
@@GaryThanosHudson ohk thanks .... I haven't got mine cleaned as yet
Does coolant not go everywhere when you disconnect the coolant line?
I wondered that too
It did, if you noticed the green substance below, it was from the coolant
Obd2 reader says EGR system failed, I'm noticing an increase in fuel consumption but no check engine light. You think it's worth checking the EGR and maybe do a bit of cleaning?
Absolutely! Sometimes the egr is working just enough to not throw a code but not at full efficiency. Could also be a good time to do a tune up (spark plugs, air filter, etc).
Check the fuel pressure regulator valve. That was the problem I was having :)
Excellent video, mines throwing a engine light for awhile now and I’m going to tackle this after doing the same on my defender. What’s the odds of the motor in the egr being stuffed from pushing a stuck valve? Don’t want to really strip it and reassemble without a degree of certainty that it’ll still open and close once cleaned.
How did it go mate?
If you want to check the egr for leaks get small paint brush and brush some washing up liquid around the seal and it will blow bubbles then you can see if needs tightening any more when tight just rinse off because it can crowled on Some metals. I wondering you could use one of the flexible drill Extensions, I know you can get sockets to fit then
Thank you for the idea, Sean. I didn't think about that. Great idea.
What is that hose that connects to the middle of the big intake hose for? The one with a blue terminal.
Question, will a bad EGR valve cause coolant to be forced out of the reservoir overflow at high speeds? Car is an 04 Mazda3, thanks!
Thanks Anthony. Looks like tons of fun. After seeing the insides of this EGR valve I am wondering if you decided to do this job because of a code P0401 or because you noticed the cold weather RPM part you mentioned.
SInce you seem to know your GH1s I wonder if you've ever separated the front lower control arm ball joints (both of them).
Scottie Kilmer said STP throttle body and air intake cleaner is fine.
Awesome that you did this!
JimTheEvo of course! I know you were one of the people who requested this video!
Did you do anything to clean out the wd40 and brake cleaner from inside the EGR? Since those are degreasers, would it wreck things to leave it in there? Do you just wipe it out with a microfibre rag, or dare I saw spray bottle a tiny amount of water to rinse out and then dry?
Hey Gavin, great question. The last cleaner is used was soapy water to remove all oily products. Realistically, everything is going to get hot and evaporate.
Anthony Awada interesting. Does it matter if you use dish soap or some other?
You can use the power foam from amsoil to clean the EGR valve...it is the real magic, it will restore it to its original condition.
Never thought of that. Thank you, Mohammed!
Hey awesome video it helped me a lot I got the exact same car! Just a got some questions. I took mines out cleaned it. I just got the code again today after 2 weeks of cleaning it, do you think I need to replace ? and also when I’ve been running my car for like 15-20 minutes I get a beeping in my car, do you think it’s related ?
Ismael Hurtado Hi Ismael, I'm afraid of you kept cleaning it and no codes have gone away. Then it might be time for a new one. I would check the hoses and other culprits before replacing though.
What kind of beeping noise are you getting?
That was a great video
So what does it mean when you take the egr valve off and clean it and put it back in and water pours out it? Replace egr valve? It wasnt leaking prior to this just had the crappy idle and rough running conditions.
Nevermind scrapped car
Hello my mazda 5 2007 diesel start normally but will not receive gas at all barely reaches speeds up to 2000 rpm, stinks and smokes gray-white smoke, after waiting a while everything is normal. Is it an egr valve?
Do you have to drop the coolant fluid?
Yes i did. and then bled the system afterwards.
Thanks for the great video. By the way your valve cover gasket is leaking😅
felix liew Thank you Felix! And yes it was leaking badly, watch my next video, it shows how to replace those exact valve cover gaskets ;)
Great video
Does this sensor affect fuel consumption?
Yes it does.
What is supposed to be on the square blank plate just above the Egr valve. I have a 2011 Mazda 5 and it is leaking coolant from somewhere in that area.
That block delivers coolant to the block and back. I doubt the block is causing the leak as they are made of aluminum. I'd check the hoses going into and out of it as well as the clamps. Hope this helps!
Anthony Awada It was the Water outlet. Somehow it had cracked. On my car the entire thing was polymer aside from the top mount. Shitty design.
@@atomicdeath10 wow, I've never seen one Crack before. Mine is made of aluminum. Maybe different years had different designs or maybe yours had an aftermarket.
I just got my egr valve replaced but it still gives me some issues.... it drives fine at first like I'll go to a destination like the store for 30 minutes and crank it up and it acts differently like a subtle shake and some gas smell on the ride home.... any suggestions?
Did you solve the issue mate?
Hey Keeper, guess what, I am having having the same idle issue again just near 1.5 years later. Had the Stealership do the EGR replacement in Dec '17 and guess what its doing the same idle issue with the strange smell of rich fuel smell. I also have erratic RPMs sometimes when I go into neutral. I am fixing this one more time and it should last me another year. Just long enough for me to go Honda or Toyota and never buy Mazda ever again. Thats 2 damn cars (Tribute and the 3) that have plagued me with idle issues which were tough to fix.
Maybe you should learn about cars and preventative maintenance instead of thinking buying a different brand will solve your problem. How fucking stupid
What if just block these holes,, would it give us better idle n mpg ??
Excellent job
Thank you very much!
Cordial saludo, tengo un Mazda 6 con 100 mil km, cada cuánto se debe limpiar está válvula? Cuáles son los problemas comunes que se producen cuando está válvula está sucia?... Te agradezco, excelente día.
Does anyone know how much coolant you lose disconnecting that hose?
Hello! I think i lost about half a quart to a quart.
Can a bad EGR prevent a car from going over a certain mph if its defective
Hey, how long would you say it took to replace the EGR valve?
About 30 min.
@@AnthonyAwada When you removed the EGR valve, did antifreeze come out? I noticed some in the video when you was removing the part. Trying to figure out if this is my problem.
@@SaltPepperKetchup90 yes, there is one hose that connects to the antifreeze.
hi, whether in mazda 3 2010 - 2.0 egr is in the same location?Thanks
Thank you very helpful
Mr muscle oven cleaner as long as you have no rubber on there, it’s cheaper and works pretty quick then rinse and repeat
Great video thanks
Anytime I do cleaning of parts like this I always use MAF sensor cleaner, TB cleaner or electric cleaner, cleans really well, dried fast and leaves no residue
Mazda was thinking clear when they put EGR on this location, but they were drunk when they put it on 1.5 engine in JDM first gen Mazda
Hey man ik u were trying to help but i would find the video more usefull if u shown us how to clean it
Believe it or not, i heard, oven cleaner removes and cleans the carbon.
the engine setup is not the same on a Mazda 6, that egr valve is mounted differently.
The car that I am working on is a Mazda 6
sorry, I meant the diesel version. yours seems to be the gasoline version
A+
Can I just delete it
Superclean and ultrasonic cleaner
That adapter though
Genius
thank you gooood
Good jod
Did bro just say nitrous oxide
I bet a mechanic would charge $900. to change that EGR value.
Little different than 2004 mazda 3.