Ranger Oil Change and a (Long) Chat with the Previous Owner

During an Oil Change, David, Sarah and Jim discuss their 1989 2.9 Ford Ranger's long history. David puts his father-in-law to sleep with another conspiracy theory about why so many of these flat-tappet engines tick.
Driven BR30 Break-in Oil: amzn.to/3XOdIKs (2:22)
Wix Filter: amzn.to/3Tybsom
Rotella Standard (T4): amzn.to/4d9VcAz
Rotella Synthetic (T6): amzn.to/4e8WEEJ
Stahlbus Oil Change Valve (M14 1.5): amzn.to/4e98D56

[@jose_svt5.038]

Doesn’t current regular engine oil have zinc and phosphorus already now

[@fixityfix]

Some have a little, but not enough for older flat tappet engines. Additionally, detergent profiles in current oils, other than formulations for diesel engines, will keep elements like Zinc, Phosphorus, Molybdenum from bonding to the lifter and other critical surfaces.

[@jose_svt5.038]

Why did you use diesel engine oil

[@fixityfix]

Thanks for watching and commenting! Rotella has good levels of ZDDP and is not so high in detergent levels, so the ZDDP can do its job. An alternative to an oil formulated for a diesel engine is a racing oil like Valvoline VR1. I use Rotella because it’s less expensive, does the same job and is well proven in these engines on many Ford, Ranger, Bronco, and BITG forums. Please let me know what you end up deciding to use, I’m always looking for new options!
VR1: amzn.to/4eIoYhf
Rotella: amzn.to/3zzyFzz

[@jose_svt5.038]

I was actually looking at the vr1 myself. I’m guessing the rotella is even better on lower detergent levels compared to the vr1 correct?

[@fixityfix]

@@jose_svt5.038, if I remember correctly, VR1 is also low detergent. Not a bad thing if you do frequent oil changes (I do every 3K). But would be a good idea to research that one more, Bob Is the Oil Guy forums are a good place to find posts where people share analyses.