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Thanks for watching! Manual says every 10k, but I do every 5k for oil and filter every 10k.

Thanks for watching and for the info! I will definitely check out the Baxter, once I use the rest of my case of filter elements :-)

Thanks for watching and commenting! @bryancooke2445, mentioned this mod below, pricey, but looks like a cool idea: www.baxterperformanceusa.com/shop-by-make/toyota-ts-501-bk-cartridge-to-spin-on-adapter-universal.html

Right on!

Love the easy under hood 4th gen filter location. Didn’t know they moved it on 5th gen. Kinda a bummer.

Not in my world it hasn't. 12 Toyotas over the past 45 years and never a major, or for that matter, a minor issue. But you keep buying whatever you want as everyone has choice in what they purchase.

I did that on the 2017 that I just traded. Worked great, but yes, expensive.

Yup, my experience is the same as yours. Hand tight for 9 years and never a problem.

Because we use the proper (notchless) oil filter removal tool and only tighten the plastic housing a little more than hand tight just as is done with spin on oil filters.

Thanks! 👍

Oh, for god sake dont tell him that!

@@davidcampbell1899 I’m not telling him anything. It’s the truth.

Toyota used a plastic oil housing for a reason, we weren't the engineers. I thought about the aluminum switch but haven't bite the bullet yet 🤷‍♂️😎

What? It doesn't screw into the oil pan. That cap is aluminum, so is the oil filter cavity. The alloy housing is better than the plastic one in every way possible.

@@Silvia0073 What? The oil filter cavity is on the oil pan, genius. And they are NOT the same aluminum alloy. I know more than you. But you go ahead and do you. You’ll find out for yourself over time.

Thanks so much for watching and commenting!

Thanks for watching and commenting! I kept the original harness mostly in tact and mostly in the stock location. I did repair some portions of the wire that did not pass the “wiggle-test”, so some areas are not exactly stock looking.

I just re done mine and I have this problem where the truck will idle but not build much fuel pressure. I already replaced filter and in frame pump and the pump runs in the tank

@@mouzzy77 after I got mine, I had to chase down multiple fuel pressure issues too. One faulty new fuel pump and a leaky injector later, the problem was finally solved. How’s your fuel pressure at the schrader valve on the rail?

​@fixityfix it's only about 3 or 4 psi. Barley reading on tester. It will idle but if u Rev it it will fall on its face. Fuel flows from the tank because when I took it off the pump it was hard to stop the fuel from spilling

Thank you very much for watching!

Thanks for watching and for the comment! I like the skid plate a lot, it’s been one of my favorite mods, along with the XREAS delete.

Some have a little, but not enough for older flat tappet engines. Additionally, detergent profiles in current oils, other than formulations for diesel engines, will keep elements like Zinc, Phosphorus, Molybdenum from bonding to the lifter and other critical surfaces.

Thanks for watching and commenting! Rotella has good levels of ZDDP and is not so high in detergent levels, so the ZDDP can do its job. An alternative to an oil formulated for a diesel engine is a racing oil like Valvoline VR1. I use Rotella because it’s less expensive, does the same job and is well proven in these engines on many Ford, Ranger, Bronco, and BITG forums. Please let me know what you end up deciding to use, I’m always looking for new options! VR1: amzn.to/4eIoYhf Rotella: amzn.to/3zzyFzz

I was actually looking at the vr1 myself. I’m guessing the rotella is even better on lower detergent levels compared to the vr1 correct?

@@jose_svt5.038, if I remember correctly, VR1 is also low detergent. Not a bad thing if you do frequent oil changes (I do every 3K). But would be a good idea to research that one more, Bob Is the Oil Guy forums are a good place to find posts where people share analyses.

Thanks for watching and commenting! I’ve gotta catch up on maintenance on the daily drivers and am looking forward to the next steps in converting this thing!

Thanks for watching and for the comment! Uploading a short video right now! 4Runner XREAS Delete Update! Bilsteins vs Stock Long-Term th-cam.com/users/shorts1J1TdIEWpdA?feature=share

Thanks for watching and commenting, regular pliers can work, just takes a little more fiddling.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! I swapped the outlet a year ago when I bought the tube amp. It was fine, but the original outlet had no ground, so I added a dedicated ground rod outside. Been meaning to neaten up the cables since, since tube rigs are so sensitive to RF/EMI.

Thanks for watching and especially for commenting. I’d love to hear your suggestions and wisdom. Part of the fun of this hobby is trying out little tweaks learned from fellow tinkerers!

​@@fixityfix My most basic, but perhaps most important advice regards how one should approach tinkering with audio equipment in the first place. Always regard the tinkering process as an experiment only. Go in with no expectations other than you might learn something. If the experiment is a success, then you've learned something useful and helpful. If not, then you've learned that this experiment was not useful at this time and with this equipment. No expectations may also help prevent straining to hear a difference when there isn't any. Secondly, never tinker with an original part *if* *you* *can* *help* *it.* Always buy a replacement part and tinker with that. If something should go wrong, you still have the original part intact. Let me know if you would be interested in my suggestion for an alternate power cord setup. Cheers!

I appreciate your thoughtful and informative comments! I am in this to learn (and of course tweak) so I’d appreciate any tips and advice you’d be willing to offer!

@@fixityfix And likewise, although I suppose that's why you're on TH-cam, heh. Well, I'll tell you some things I've done to get more performance from power cords. Firstly, since I found out about 'em, I always use Hosa brand cords. Why? They're excellent quality, come in different lengths and configurations, and most importantly use OFC and are very inexpensive. Under fifteen dollars. Hosa markets to professional musicians and industry professionals. They make good stuff and I have no affiliation. Next, I carefully remove the outer jacket, leaving the three conductors exposed (they have their own insulation already). Why? Because it's excess bad dielectric, and there's way too much of it. The more excess dielectric you can remove from your system, the more clarity you will gain. That includes any that you may inadvertently add yourself. Sometimes different people will disagree on things. Hopefully with respect. Next, I carefully remove the entire molded rubber cover from the female end of the cord, exposing the white plastic box that surrounds the three recepticals that plug into the equipment. Again, excess dielectric. One can also do this to a lesser extent on the male end, but it's probably not worth the small gain and extra risk. Everything I've described so far is safe (to my knowledge), although not exactly to UL specifications. Lastly, if I have a standard length cord, I will cut thin triangles of cardboard, twelve inches on each side, and attach each conductor to a corner using slotted holes. By doing so, I separate the conductors from each other by an equal twelve inches for their entire length. Why? Because the electromagnetic fields emanating from each conductor are strongest in the first six inch radius around the conductor, and I want to give a little extra room to insure those fields don't interact with each other. What's also known as "crosstalk". Once again, this increases clarity. Oh, and keep the cord away from synthetic materials like carpet, curtains, and upholstery, which all act as dielectric that you've just spent so much time removing. Each of these things produce small, but noticeable gains. The important thing is that "pennies add up". Five gains of ten percent equals a net gain of fifty percent! Well worth the effort, in my opinion. If you decide to try any of my suggestions, I would be interested to hear the result. Thanks for the interest!

. It's the coils of AC cable & their EMI field being reduced here. Not resistance. Acid Jazz, Funk & Brass 🔈🔉🔊

Thanks for the thoughtful response @triamphifi reduced EMI is my guess too… and it just looks better. I fully accept the small changes I perceive may also be placebo, but, was fun to tinker and make the right a little neater in the process. Appreciate you watching!

Snake oil is when you pay big money for something that doesn't do the job. In this case, he only shortened a normal household cable. That's not snake oil.

lol, you may or may not be wrong, but how would I know ;-)

If I'm not mistaken when any equipment leaves the factory it has to meet spafaction shorting a cord isn't going to be that significant in the sound if so the manufacturer would have done so snake oil for sure it's just ridiculous

@@fixityfix You can know by getting someone to randomly switch the cords in another room, and seeing if you can tell when the cords have been switched. You need to repeat the guess around a dozen times to be sure if you guess tight out of luck. But the cord length is a very small component of mains supply quality, house wiring and other devices on the same mains loop have a far greater effect on the mains supply which your hifi rectifies and filters. Expensive or shortened hifi power cords are technically snake oil. If you test blindly you cant hear any difference. Its been done and no one can.

Thanks for watching and commenting! I wasn’t expecting any real improvement either, but was glad to get rid of some extra EMI, and coiled up cable. We did a Placebo DB on the power conditioner and were surprised by the reliably positive difference it made. I am sure I would not be able to reliably pick out the small difference chopping the cord made. Next up, I’m planning to run a dedicated line to the rig from the breaker box. Would be fun to double blind placebo that project :-)

The AC then gets sent through a rectifier and converted to 5V or 12V DC. Also the length of the power cable is insignificant compared to the length of cabling in the walls. Any RF noise again is insignificant against the amplitude of the AC current.

Thanks for watching and commenting! Right on! I’m finding the tweaking is nearly as fun as listening!

Glad the video is helpful! I ended up just removing the lines entirely. I like the Bilstiens just fine and can’t imagine going back to the XREAS. Full disclosure, the XREAS did make the ride a little smoother on highways, but, the Bilsteins are far better off road and with towing. Good luck with the project!

@@fixityfix Awesome! is the process for removing the system removing the hoses or is there a reservoir somewhere?

@@masonharris6961 no reservoir, just removing hoses, the hard lines are also easy to remove, or, could just be left in place if you choose.

I use the Eastwood set: amzn.to/3TtH5Pz But it sure looks similar to the Amerbm! Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching and commenting! I change ours every 50-60k miles (about every 100k kms). It has worked out well so far and actually improved shifting in our case.

Thanks for the kind words, and for watching! Just yesterday, I shortened the 6ft power cord down to 2 feet, and was surprised that removing the extra length made a minor but noticeable improvement in imaging and clarity.

@@fixityfix Good to know, and somewhat expected. I may eventually get to that level of tweaking. Currently doing the best I can to enjoy the abundance I have.

@@AllynVibesAudioGallery, I just found your channel and subscribed - I’m looking forward to learning from your content!

@@fixityfix Great! Thank you. If nothing else maybe see what not to do! LOL.

Thanks for watching, and especially for the encouragement! What year 944 do you have?

@fixityfix I have a white late model 86. Bought the car in 09 from a guy that was a tad bit suspicious but I was 19 and didn't know any better. Sadly the maintenance wasn't done well and the clutch had been replaced. When the wrapped the job up. The bell housing bolts were not tightened to spec and while driving the bell housing came loose damaging the flywheel and contact pins. I got her running again but the block is damaged now and one bolt hole had been broken off from the damage and so now it only have five bolts. Figured that would make my car a prime candidate for something like this.

@itznoobuluz, it does sound like an excellent candidate, especially as it has the later suspension mounts. Electric Classic Cars in Wales, UK did a 944 a few years back, worth checking out if you haven’t seen their video yet. th-cam.com/video/SRU3jmCmGrs/w-d-xo.htmlsi=ViQWXOHSc6jO51x9

@@fixityfix ill check it out. Thanks!

Thanks for watching, and especially for the .02! I briefly considered using both motors in the 944! And probably would have if it was a later 944 (would be easier to add coilovers and adjust for the extra weight!). I’d love to do an e914 one day and the front SDU does seem like an excellent candidate!