Great video covering the issue! But I have something to add I found out in one of these Facebook groups about the exclusion zones. I'll copy the text for you "Yeah, I have confirmed I can print the entire 305x305 once the exclusion zones are removed in the Slicer as the there are no mechanical limitations. I was able to print parts similar to the lids in my previous post right into the exclusions, which are tiny, and hard to hit unless you really try...." This information was found in the QIDI TECH Official User Group at a post from Scot Etat on first layer porn 😅
Nice! After some debating with different users i think it's there for the AMS in the future, so your print doesn't interfere with the cutting(lower right corner) and purging on the top left. So i think the ams will make the total buildvolume smaller. It's just a guess so take it with a truck of salt 😆 But great nonetheless, removing some command lines and full builplates! Btw, i'm getting posts from the official group but still waiting to get in to see how big the problem is, now at 5 with loose bearings. Will pin your post to correct my statement, thanks for informing me.
@@NoizieWorks No problem! But yes, I think as well those exclusion zones are for the AMS system thingy. It would be great if they have the option to disable it in the slicer. But in my opinion i wouldn't use a AMS, I have a prusa MMU here and I barely use it. I think for engineering stuff a toolchanger is the way to go. AMS? Just for fancy colorful stuff and simple material combinations
@Rraijjar I would use it more for dissolving filaments. Some models are just a pain to remove support and to automatically replace empty spools for a fresh one without having the print pausing for hours because your not home.
@@NoizieWorks I try to design my stuff to remove of need of supports. But i can understand people will love to have some dissolving supports! Buuut... you made me buy this printer now xD with some help of other people of course
Thank you for the great update video. I appreciate all your testing and detail. I also appreciate when a reviewer indicates "needs tuning", does the tuning, then shows how the tuning worked out. Nice when a reviewer takes the time to figure a solution to a manufacturers issue, and finds a workable solution! I think Qidi should send you a gift for all of your work. I know they gave you printer, but you went beyond just testing.. Kudos to you.
@DK-vx1zc Gifts are not necessary 😆 you subscribing is (JK) Filament tuning is highly underrated these days but the petg is just night and day right. Thanks for the love ✌️
Absolutely thank you for showing a fix for this. I am close to buying this printer and it seems the fix seems to be easy enough, now the only real downside it has is that a clogged nozzle is a ton of work to clean up, but I hope here for retrofit solutions. A friend of mine has the same issue with his creality not sure if Bambu also does have the same problem but for Bambu retrofit solutions already exist which allow a fast nozzle change which fixes the issue!
@werpu12 there seems to be a heatcreap issue, more and more people reporting on it. There is a fan mod available to put the fan in front of the heatsink instead of what it's doing now. And thanks!
You do a lot to set my mind at ease, I guess they are aware of this, I just started using my plus4 last weekend and everything is fine, it looks like the glue is working:)
@Zoran_07 They are definitely not talking to me about it and not to scare you, every machine sold now has the same type of bearing installation. 2 people confirmed glue deteriorating after very hot prints resulting in loose printheads which is probably what happend with mine as i don't remember it being loose upon setting up. But you can fix it now if needed.
Really appreciate your continued work and insights! It's a shame there is a design oversight like this on a printer that is SO CLOSE to being really ideal for the money. Don't get me wrong, mine is printing great and I think the printer is still worth it, but I hope Qidi makes a few small revisions to make it that much more problem free. I mentioned in another comment, but as I understand it you actually can force a larger print area. However you'll have to manually configure it and still mind the exclusion zones. Printing a full build plate perfect square isn't possible though. They probably could have made the printhead a little smaller! Hahaha. I also really appreciate that you don't blame the machine for every printing issue and recognize that the filament and settings contribute to appearance. PETG-CF really is a cheat code of sorts. Overall solid results though. Thanks again!
Thanks for your help. Just bought Qidi plus 4, your videos are a real asset (Qidi should think about employing you). Printer is working great now, really pleased with. I did contact Qidi tech support about adding a Garolite bed and they said it could not be done because of the way the sensors work. My intention was to glue 0.8mm sheet of Garolite to PEI sheet, I would appreciate your view on this or any better way to print nylon. Thanks again all the Dave
I see what they mean, it's the offset from the inductive probe and the nozzle probing. Not going to work well with extra .8mm. Did you try hairspray or the glue? And thank you!
@@NoizieWorks Have not tried printing Nylon yet, but will give it go with glue (just had good results with Garolite). Would you mind explaining inductive probing? My other printer used the bed surface
@daveedmunds7854 it's using the metal in the flexplate to probe with the sensor, then it does a physical probe with the nozzle to do the offset. What i think is that if you put a extra .8mm off non conductive material on top the offset can't compensated but you can try as long as the nozzle doesn't crash in the buildplate. I also have seen people use kapton tape. Honestly, print hot with a big brim and it's probably going to be fine. I use Nylon Cf and that sticks great.
I was debating whether to continue waiting to see what Bambu Lab's next printer would be or to take the plunge and purchase this Plus 4. I think I'll wait. I'm not comfortable with Qidi claiming this is an isolated issue because, given the nature of the problem, it's impossible for it to be isolated. A faulty motor or damaged cable could be an isolated problem, but not a lack of glue or its quality. Bambu Lab had an issue with the A1 at launch, and they took responsibility for it. In fact, it's this approach that convinced me to buy one of their printers.
I too was looking the Plus 4 vs. waiting......The issues in this video (thanks Will) should not be happening (quality control/testing issues). I think we'll see more 3D printer offerings in the near future with similar features with better quality. Formnext 2024 is coming... Bambu announcement? Others likley as well....
I haven't had any issues with my bearings yet, it's been rock solid, but I'll definitely have to keep an eye on it. Only issue I've been having is related to wireless, I connected it to wifi but it's had issues connecting to Orca slicer or Qidi Studio wirelessly, I'm working with Qidi on that though. I've been using the USB until i can sort that out. Outside the wireless issue its been amazing so far, I am a bit bummed it's not a full 305x305, buts it's not that big of a deal, and I'm very happy with the printer otherwise. I was going to get a P1S before this, but I'm still glad I got rhe Plus 4
Its not about a problem being found, its how they respond that matters, and even mentioning that only one person had trouble tells me volumes. It doesn't matter if only 1 person is having an issue or 1000, they owe each individual a fix, regardless of how many people are reporting it. I was going to pick up this printer based on all the positive reviews, but now I am going to wait and see how things go for a few months and then decide which printer to buy.
@cashbrewery wow that's bad! There is a mod to relocate the hotend fan so it's more in line with the heatsink. You can find it on printables and I also have seen people replace the fan for something more powerful with good success
I figured out why the first layer got weird in the corner, because of the nozzle crash that 1 corner needed adjusting again as it drooped down. My bad!
Had to change the excluded bed area. I homed the printer and tested which space isn't printable in the front right to change that and not get that problem of the Filament cutter hitting the shell. I attached my exclude bed area. 0x305, 0x300, 50x300, 50x305, 305x305, 305x305, 305x305, 305x20, 295x20, 295x0, 305x0, 305x20, 305x305
@@NoizieWorks in my theory that thing is just for the Qidi box and they never tested the printer in all possible ways. If you want you could use it already with macros like Bambu. Cutting Filament so the user just pulls back Filament. But for sure pressing it by yourself is a lot faster since you would have to go home in front cutting the Filament every time. The Macros aren't that nice well thought too. After bed leveling etc. it's heating up in the front left corner oozing Filament when you have a full wiper/clean area in the back to solve that
Thanks for the updates! really appreciate your work. Would be interesting to know if everyone with the issues is in EU (maybe a specific batch) or global. Either way, think i will likely wait a little bit longer. I dont mind the cut outs in the corners, but that should be stated as that can have an effect for people. It is probably a sacrifice/trade off made for trying to get a builder print volume in a smaller body. I think its worth while to do so,, just needs to be pointed out. At least they are on opposite corners so if you need to print 45° to maximize the build size, you still can in one orientation.
@willofthemaker Time will tell, it looks like they where planning to use 2 ball bearings and changed it up as the tooling on the inside looks like it's for the top bearing. I'm speculating now but no denying that it's poorly designed with an even worse workaround. I agree on your take of the exclusion zones.
I had the same issue with my X-plus 3 But there is no screw and glue to clamp the bearings. They are only clamped by the two plastics halves. And they did wear in. But after a bit back and forward with the service they did provide me with two new plastic half that clamp down on the bearing. Also installed it with some extra glue to prevent it from vibrating and wearing in again.
I hate when vendors says 'limited number of customers have issues X' - devices are mass produced so EVERYONE will have these issues sooner or later. Use cases might be different, but the end result will be the same. I really want to love the Qidi ... thankfully I need to wait until spring to buy another printer. Hopefully enough time to fix all these issues.
I have some inconsistency issues with the bed leveling and I wonder if this can also be caused by a loose bearing. The problems started to occur after some attempts to print PA6 with high bed and chamber temperatures ... Also my chamber heater fan seems to have died today. The plus4 is my 7th Qidi printer in a row of 8 and it is the first one giving me trouble like this.
ive had constant clogging issues with my plus4, heat creep or something, anyways there's a shroud stl that connects the fan to the heatsink. Suppose to make it better.
@helixxharpell generic high temp silicone from Bison. Loctite in plastic selftappers hasn't been a great success in my career and here is the link to the product www.bol.com/nl/p/bison-siliconenkit-high-temp-tube-60-ml-hittebestendig-tot-300-c-makkelijk-verwerkbaar-zwart-kleurvast-blijvend-elastisch-makkelijk-te-verwerken-hittebestendig/9200000010529339?referrer=socialshare_pdp_androidapp
Was hyped to get mine up and running today. After watching videos all week on this printer. My printer head crashes right before going into the wiper/poop shoot area. Makes the belt skip and all… paper weight till I hear back from customer support.. all while my p1s prints non spot right out the box,
@@NoizieWorks all fixed. The housing was touching the whipper set up, They sent me a video showing the fix. 👌🏼 just had to squeeze the lower section up..
good stuff on the first layer and measureing that print size...thanks for that. I think the chinese makers are absolutely getting there, and at a good price which does matter...but come on...all us 3D users/makers are getting a bit over the continued hype over spec's and features...we are the people that actual measure, design and build shit...so we are going to find out. We have more respect for (manufacturers) being accurate and upfront with what it is, more than what they want it to be.
Following this. I have done tons of CF and GF high temp filaments in my new Plus4. Was planning to do an inspection and cleaning this evening on unit, it has been running nonstop tons of GF ABS and chamber been at 55 whole time. Want to see if I have any signs of issues since I primarily only run engineer grade filaments in my newer machine. Be great if you could add some images with better details on issue area how it comes apart etc. So you are saying the plastic part is bolting to the brass bearing? Are you also saying original design was high temp glue only attaching it to the brass bearing? Fix involves a tapped hole on bearing and threading machine screw into the brass bearing and using super high temp silicone? I will be inspecting this evening after doing many many hours of high temp runs and very abrasive GF and CF runs continuously for extended periods, see what I find. Is the bolt pushing against the brass bearing? Is there a thread for machine screw or only pressure of it pushing on bearing? Wish you would take close up pic of brass bearing, so could see details of it's design. Looking back and pausing looks like glue or silicone dries and bonds the plastic to the brass bearing exterior surface, your machine screws only hold casing together, is this correct?
Hi dude! No problems running material at all. I'm not going to open up the unit again, already stripped 2 of the 4 self tapper that hold the shell together (another gripe i have,drilled it and fixed it) You can see in the video 2 white dots, that's the "glue" they inject from the back to hold the bearing in place so it doesn't rock back and forward in the cavity. Probably a 2 composite as it's hard as a rock, i can see that it deformed a bit but mine definitely got underfilled. 2 other people seem to have the same experience, solid in the beginning with deformation after a few prints and a loose head as a results. Didn't see the pictures but if i have to guess probably also a lack of injected material. The fix indeed involves using 2 self tapper or 2 bolts like i used as these holes are not pre threaded. These bolts push on the bearing to take away the play. The cavity seems to be made for the bigger ball bearing and not the brass bushing. I added high temp silicone between the 2 white dots to permanently fill the cavity so i can now just remove the 2 bolts as this isn't going to move anytime soon. The complete head is held together with self tappers into plastic, loosen them a few times and you will strip them. Now having to add 2 bolts that push on the bushing isn't going to help as you now apply pressure on the casing and the 4 selftappers. Another reason i filled the void with something.
ow i forgot, inspecting another design flaw. Drop the bed to 278mm and tell me what happens in 15 ish minutes. Probably will go into protection because the chamber temp is going to tank. Reason, buildplate chokes of the chamber heater so any hot print above 275 mm in my case is going to fail. Somebody reached out and it in fact its also the case on my sample only i didn't waste a 20 hour print and a roll of filament.
@@NoizieWorks inspected it, bearing tight and been making tall prints abs with chamber heating running no issues seen after about 15 plates run to date but will keep eye out for this. Prints were 10cm height not sure if that would have reached zone? Looking visually rhink see where you talking heater vent at bottom of case about 4 cm tall maybe 5cm can see what would happen….needs a side discharge not fwd for hot air…. Otherwise build plate will block it, perhaps rotate it 90 degree so blows along front glass? And add a 60 degree deflector after rotated 90 degrees. Loose about 1.75 inch in build height when running engineer material…. Think will look at rotation by 90 degrees or different heater design…
@JTs3DPrints heater is glued in from what I heard. Somebody made a macro to automatically turn off the heater past a certain point. I set mine to 270mm and that seems to work.
Facing an issue with the proximity sensor at high temps. Now issue with bed at 90°C and chamber at 65°C but with bed at 120°C the proximity sensor dont trigger at all leading to nozzle to bed collision. It could be a faultly sensor or an unrated sensor for high temp. Will check with my second Xplus4. Could you check with yours ?
Good video as usual. I notice you used high temp silicone for the bearing screws - would low-torque / anti vibration thread glue be adequate if it’s solid until >150C? Surely the screws would never see those temps even at full operation with heating, as they are not in contact with the nozzle? Appreciate your advice!
It's not on the screws but between them in the case they should come loose the void behind the bearing is filled. Those bolts are just screwed into un threaded plastic.
@PerfectPudding untill you feel resistance and the cage feels locked. Let the silicone dry and that should fix it. I printed 2 15 hour prints back to back and she's solid now.
As a mechanical engineer with several years of mechanical design experience QIDI's method of bearing capture is about as amateurish as I've ever seen. I was on the verge of buying one of these but between this, the SSR relay overheating, and the chamber heater blockage issue I've changed my mind. Relying on QIDI's customers as a method to find quality assurance issues is wrong.
Just wondering: with the positioning of the exclusion zones, you could slightly rotate a rectangle to just miss those 2 zones. So the question then is what the maximum surface/dimensions of such a slightly rotated rectangle would be. I'd guess it would still be relatively close to 300x300, no?
You might win 5mm yes(need to test it) but the question is: Do you need it to be square and most importantly should this be disclosed on the marketing material? I only found out trying to do a first layer test so that sucks if you buy it to use every mm² to come to this conclusion.
Another quality control issue : the extruder. Multiple "clogs" using PETG > issue coming from the spring tensionner which was blocked by the small protrusion of the cover. By the way, all the screws were not screwed correctly.
I have a qidi Max3 printer only about 3 month's old making rubbing sounds not all the time but sometimes and im seeing a kinda rubbing on the bar build up. I did put some 3 in 1 oil on it when it first started making the rubbing sound. it helped but slowly coming back.
I have noticed that enclosed (hot) printers need more maintenance. ABS is famous for depositing crap all over the printer like rails. Clean them regularly and use a thin oil to lube the rails. Depending on print hours this is a bi-weekly procedure as the oils evaporate a lot faster then grease. Hope it helps
Try to avoid 3 in 1 oils for this type of application. Usually have some kind of solvent in them which could attack belts etc. Dedicated lubricating oils would be best.
I don't have my unit yet, but it'll be here Wednesday. Is there a type of spring that you have in mind? It's my first 3D printer, but I'm a tinkerer, and I love figuring out solutions to fix and improve things.
@@Decimus-Magnus Just one from a clothes peg would probably be fine but you will need washers for sure. Basically any spring that is smaller diameter than the head of the bolt but larger than the threads would be fine 😁
I got my plus4 last week and it’s screen wasn’t turning on. Their support team was quick to answer and offered troubleshooting options, however I’m now waiting on a new screen. If anyone is interested in buying a Plus4 I would wait a couple months until they fix the issues.
@@JohnDoe-ot5ir together with the 2 bolts recommended by qidi. I just added the silicone to fill the void IF those bolts get loose for the reasons explained
I bought a Q1 Pro on launch day, and had mostly issues. I want to love Qidi but their QC seems to be off, or they use their early adopters as beta testers.
@@bp8__163 yes and no, i think they lack the testing on scale and 3rd party beta testing to iron out some things most can find within an hour of usage.
@freedomofmotion hmmmm... eu should have plenty of stock, not sure for the rest. I wonder how they fix that when it's shipped so maybe worth checking in why it's taking so long.
@@NoizieWorks for now just inserted 2 m3x8 bolts. I had no high temp glue on hand. The quality is much much better now, but Not „Perfect“. Sometime i have underextrusion when the head comes on the bed (mean, everytime After the head lifts)
@@NoizieWorks for now I just copied the profiles from my bambu studio and used my bambu filament (pla,abs,petg) for abs 260degree, 16qmm, 0,96 Flow, 0.03 pa
Probably because of wear, bushing don't just wear out much faster than bearings buy, they also wear out the rods. Bearings can be smoother too, the only benefit to bushings I can see is they're a little lighter and cheaper.
All these corexy printers use them. X1c, k1, k1 max, x max 3, x plus 3, q1 pro, p1p, p1s, you name it, they all use them. These printers run holllw steel rods. Unlike Bambu using carbon fiber rods. The carbon fiber is mildly abrasive and will wear them down faster than polished steel. At least they did something different with the plus4. It has most of the load on the top linear bearing that is steel balls. The bottom is basically to steady it. But all these damn corexy use them unfortunately. When one of these companies use them, the rest use them unfortunately. Also,.I am not having very good luck with my new plus4. The test prints are coming out bad, all wavy and vfa's on them. It's also very loud cause the things is making very loud rubbing noises and the side panels makenit echo through the room so loud. I am pretty pissed I already gotta mess with this damn thing. Both my q1 pros printed perfect out of the box, and still do. I constantly have to tune my x max 3's to get decent prints out of them. I bought this plus4 to get away from that, but looks like I got a problematic 1st gen of this damn printer. I really don't feel like ripping this 🤬 thing apart.
Buyer beware, mine is 2 days old and has not printed anything, heater bed is defective. My Bambu Labs works perfectly, so does my BIQU Bx and B1, my Creality Ender 5 Plus and my Chiron.
Why are printer manufacturers never transparent about the real build size? .. 305x305 is not the size.. Why advertise it as such then? .. FLsun did the same trick with their new printers. This in combination with loose bearings; i think i'll stick with Bambu for now.
@802Garage Not in the qidi studio, i originally imported a 305x305 square and it started complaining about those zones so i adjusted until it fitted. The measurements i gave are the maximum XY according to the slicer. Right now i really need this thing to start spitting plastic for a project so feel free to try it out and get back to me if these are unnecessary boundaries. It could be that they need to update the slicer but at that point i will pass it on directly.
@@NoizieWorks imo its a bit scummy to tell buyers it can print 305x305 when in reality it can only print 298x288. if you advertise it as 305x305 just fckn add extra way for the nozzle cleaning and filament cutter.
bambulab is the best is a metalsheat metallo che fa rumore e fa schifo come macchina nemmeno se me la regalano la prendo e ingombrante rumorosa e poco precisa per non parlare del peso ce un trattore dentro
I have Bambulab, I had to send back the A1 because it could catch fire, then I got the P1S and do you know the actual print area? Yes, it is smaller than what is declared, as you can see it does not seem better than the others and if you were registered on some Bambulab forum, you would see how many people have problems with Bambulab
Great video covering the issue! But I have something to add I found out in one of these Facebook groups about the exclusion zones. I'll copy the text for you
"Yeah, I have confirmed I can print the entire 305x305 once the exclusion zones are removed in the Slicer as the there are no mechanical limitations.
I was able to print parts similar to the lids in my previous post right into the exclusions, which are tiny, and hard to hit unless you really try...."
This information was found in the QIDI TECH Official User Group at a post from Scot Etat on first layer porn 😅
Nice! After some debating with different users i think it's there for the AMS in the future, so your print doesn't interfere with the cutting(lower right corner) and purging on the top left.
So i think the ams will make the total buildvolume smaller.
It's just a guess so take it with a truck of salt 😆
But great nonetheless, removing some command lines and full builplates!
Btw, i'm getting posts from the official group but still waiting to get in to see how big the problem is, now at 5 with loose bearings.
Will pin your post to correct my statement, thanks for informing me.
@@NoizieWorks No problem! But yes, I think as well those exclusion zones are for the AMS system thingy. It would be great if they have the option to disable it in the slicer.
But in my opinion i wouldn't use a AMS, I have a prusa MMU here and I barely use it. I think for engineering stuff a toolchanger is the way to go. AMS? Just for fancy colorful stuff and simple material combinations
@Rraijjar I would use it more for dissolving filaments. Some models are just a pain to remove support and to automatically replace empty spools for a fresh one without having the print pausing for hours because your not home.
@@NoizieWorks I try to design my stuff to remove of need of supports. But i can understand people will love to have some dissolving supports!
Buuut... you made me buy this printer now xD with some help of other people of course
@@Rraijjar oops, so sorry
I was about to spend 800 thank you I’ll wait till they fix the issues
Thank you for the great update video. I appreciate all your testing and detail. I also appreciate when a reviewer indicates "needs tuning", does the tuning, then shows how the tuning worked out. Nice when a reviewer takes the time to figure a solution to a manufacturers issue, and finds a workable solution! I think Qidi should send you a gift for all of your work. I know they gave you printer, but you went beyond just testing.. Kudos to you.
@DK-vx1zc Gifts are not necessary 😆 you subscribing is (JK)
Filament tuning is highly underrated these days but the petg is just night and day right.
Thanks for the love ✌️
@@NoizieWorks Already subscribed
Absolutely thank you for showing a fix for this. I am close to buying this printer and it seems the fix seems to be easy enough, now the only real downside it has is that a clogged nozzle is a ton of work to clean up, but I hope here for retrofit solutions. A friend of mine has the same issue with his creality not sure if Bambu also does have the same problem but for Bambu retrofit solutions already exist which allow a fast nozzle change which fixes the issue!
@werpu12 there seems to be a heatcreap issue, more and more people reporting on it.
There is a fan mod available to put the fan in front of the heatsink instead of what it's doing now. And thanks!
You do a lot to set my mind at ease, I guess they are aware of this, I just started using my plus4 last weekend and everything is fine, it looks like the glue is working:)
@Zoran_07 They are definitely not talking to me about it and not to scare you, every machine sold now has the same type of bearing installation.
2 people confirmed glue deteriorating after very hot prints resulting in loose printheads which is probably what happend with mine as i don't remember it being loose upon setting up.
But you can fix it now if needed.
Really appreciate your continued work and insights! It's a shame there is a design oversight like this on a printer that is SO CLOSE to being really ideal for the money. Don't get me wrong, mine is printing great and I think the printer is still worth it, but I hope Qidi makes a few small revisions to make it that much more problem free. I mentioned in another comment, but as I understand it you actually can force a larger print area. However you'll have to manually configure it and still mind the exclusion zones. Printing a full build plate perfect square isn't possible though. They probably could have made the printhead a little smaller! Hahaha. I also really appreciate that you don't blame the machine for every printing issue and recognize that the filament and settings contribute to appearance. PETG-CF really is a cheat code of sorts. Overall solid results though. Thanks again!
Thanks for your help. Just bought Qidi plus 4, your videos are a real asset (Qidi should think about employing you). Printer is working great now, really pleased with. I did contact Qidi tech support about adding a Garolite bed and they said it could not be done because of the way the sensors work. My intention was to glue 0.8mm sheet of Garolite to PEI sheet, I would appreciate your view on this or any better way to print nylon. Thanks again all the Dave
I see what they mean, it's the offset from the inductive probe and the nozzle probing.
Not going to work well with extra .8mm.
Did you try hairspray or the glue? And thank you!
@@NoizieWorks Have not tried printing Nylon yet, but will give it go with glue (just had good results with Garolite). Would you mind explaining inductive probing? My other printer used the bed surface
@daveedmunds7854 it's using the metal in the flexplate to probe with the sensor, then it does a physical probe with the nozzle to do the offset. What i think is that if you put a extra .8mm off non conductive material on top the offset can't compensated but you can try as long as the nozzle doesn't crash in the buildplate.
I also have seen people use kapton tape.
Honestly, print hot with a big brim and it's probably going to be fine. I use Nylon Cf and that sticks great.
I was debating whether to continue waiting to see what Bambu Lab's next printer would be or to take the plunge and purchase this Plus 4. I think I'll wait. I'm not comfortable with Qidi claiming this is an isolated issue because, given the nature of the problem, it's impossible for it to be isolated. A faulty motor or damaged cable could be an isolated problem, but not a lack of glue or its quality. Bambu Lab had an issue with the A1 at launch, and they took responsibility for it. In fact, it's this approach that convinced me to buy one of their printers.
@trobinou47 Completely agree, owning the problem and actively correcting it should be the standard for all brands.
I too was looking the Plus 4 vs. waiting......The issues in this video (thanks Will) should not be happening (quality control/testing issues). I think we'll see more 3D printer offerings in the near future with similar features with better quality. Formnext 2024 is coming... Bambu announcement? Others likley as well....
I haven't had any issues with my bearings yet, it's been rock solid, but I'll definitely have to keep an eye on it. Only issue I've been having is related to wireless, I connected it to wifi but it's had issues connecting to Orca slicer or Qidi Studio wirelessly, I'm working with Qidi on that though. I've been using the USB until i can sort that out.
Outside the wireless issue its been amazing so far, I am a bit bummed it's not a full 305x305, buts it's not that big of a deal, and I'm very happy with the printer otherwise. I was going to get a P1S before this, but I'm still glad I got rhe Plus 4
Check the Port IP:Port
I would say if Qidi fixes this in house for the next Lot., then i'll pick it up
Its not about a problem being found, its how they respond that matters, and even mentioning that only one person had trouble tells me volumes. It doesn't matter if only 1 person is having an issue or 1000, they owe each individual a fix, regardless of how many people are reporting it. I was going to pick up this printer based on all the positive reviews, but now I am going to wait and see how things go for a few months and then decide which printer to buy.
@@keno101 valid opinion!
i wish i would have just got another Bambu labs printer. The plus4 clogs all the time with top off and front door wide open. Bambu is a workhorse.
@cashbrewery did you ask for a replacement nozzle? They offer a new version to help with the heatcreep.
@@NoizieWorks yes, been through 3 of them so far.
@cashbrewery wow that's bad! There is a mod to relocate the hotend fan so it's more in line with the heatsink. You can find it on printables and I also have seen people replace the fan for something more powerful with good success
I figured out why the first layer got weird in the corner, because of the nozzle crash that 1 corner needed adjusting again as it drooped down. My bad!
Had to change the excluded bed area. I homed the printer and tested which space isn't printable in the front right to change that and not get that problem of the Filament cutter hitting the shell.
I attached my exclude bed area.
0x305, 0x300, 50x300, 50x305, 305x305, 305x305, 305x305, 305x20, 295x20, 295x0, 305x0, 305x20, 305x305
Thanks for sharing! I wonder why they do it then...
@@NoizieWorks in my theory that thing is just for the Qidi box and they never tested the printer in all possible ways. If you want you could use it already with macros like Bambu. Cutting Filament so the user just pulls back Filament. But for sure pressing it by yourself is a lot faster since you would have to go home in front cutting the Filament every time. The Macros aren't that nice well thought too. After bed leveling etc. it's heating up in the front left corner oozing Filament when you have a full wiper/clean area in the back to solve that
@sonkegarnholz5016 I already adressed the oozing in the Q1 pro. You have a spot for it! And now they do it again🙈
Thanks for the updates! really appreciate your work. Would be interesting to know if everyone with the issues is in EU (maybe a specific batch) or global. Either way, think i will likely wait a little bit longer.
I dont mind the cut outs in the corners, but that should be stated as that can have an effect for people. It is probably a sacrifice/trade off made for trying to get a builder print volume in a smaller body. I think its worth while to do so,, just needs to be pointed out. At least they are on opposite corners so if you need to print 45° to maximize the build size, you still can in one orientation.
@willofthemaker Time will tell, it looks like they where planning to use 2 ball bearings and changed it up as the tooling on the inside looks like it's for the top bearing.
I'm speculating now but no denying that it's poorly designed with an even worse workaround.
I agree on your take of the exclusion zones.
I had the same issue with my X-plus 3
But there is no screw and glue to clamp the bearings. They are only clamped by the two plastics halves. And they did wear in.
But after a bit back and forward with the service they did provide me with two new plastic half that clamp down on the bearing.
Also installed it with some extra glue to prevent it from vibrating and wearing in again.
I have a brand new X-Plus 3 with the same issue
Looking forward to your 1 month review.
@@skrems next week i'm doing a round up 😉
I hate when vendors says 'limited number of customers have issues X' - devices are mass produced so EVERYONE will have these issues sooner or later. Use cases might be different, but the end result will be the same. I really want to love the Qidi ... thankfully I need to wait until spring to buy another printer. Hopefully enough time to fix all these issues.
💯 although that the lower bearing is probably not going to be changed in design. They didn't learn from the xmax 3
I have some inconsistency issues with the bed leveling and I wonder if this can also be caused by a loose bearing. The problems started to occur after some attempts to print PA6 with high bed and chamber temperatures ... Also my chamber heater fan seems to have died today. The plus4 is my 7th Qidi printer in a row of 8 and it is the first one giving me trouble like this.
Very easy test is grabbing the printhead and try to wiggle it. Should be rock solid. Heaters are also problematic with higher fail rate on the plus 4
ive had constant clogging issues with my plus4, heat creep or something, anyways there's a shroud stl that connects the fan to the heatsink. Suppose to make it better.
In firmware 1.4 the filament does auto-cut when you initiate an extract command.
Could you inform me more on that and how you make it do that? Macro in klipper? Thanks
Do we know if those issues got fixed on newwer units? ordered mine 2 days ago and waiting for it, hopefully it doesnt create that issue.
@panosfxable most is fixed, the bearing seems to be a rare but still not really fixed problem.
@ sweet, thanks 🙏🏼
What silicone type did you use? Would Loc-tite Blue or red be sufficient?
@helixxharpell generic high temp silicone from Bison.
Loctite in plastic selftappers hasn't been a great success in my career and here is the link to the product www.bol.com/nl/p/bison-siliconenkit-high-temp-tube-60-ml-hittebestendig-tot-300-c-makkelijk-verwerkbaar-zwart-kleurvast-blijvend-elastisch-makkelijk-te-verwerken-hittebestendig/9200000010529339?referrer=socialshare_pdp_androidapp
Was hyped to get mine up and running today. After watching videos all week on this printer. My printer head crashes right before going into the wiper/poop shoot area. Makes the belt skip and all… paper weight till I hear back from customer support.. all while my p1s prints non spot right out the box,
@@Flintstonefred there is always the chance of receiving a hot mess. Sounds like it's not homing correctly?
@@NoizieWorks all fixed. The housing was touching the whipper set up, They sent me a video showing the fix. 👌🏼 just had to squeeze the lower section up..
Nice! Qidi support is great
good stuff on the first layer and measureing that print size...thanks for that. I think the chinese makers are absolutely getting there, and at a good price which does matter...but come on...all us 3D users/makers are getting a bit over the continued hype over spec's and features...we are the people that actual measure, design and build shit...so we are going to find out.
We have more respect for (manufacturers) being accurate and upfront with what it is, more than what they want it to be.
@@vivianmorresey 100% ✌️
Following this. I have done tons of CF and GF high temp filaments in my new Plus4. Was planning to do an inspection and cleaning this evening on unit, it has been running nonstop tons of GF ABS and chamber been at 55 whole time. Want to see if I have any signs of issues since I primarily only run engineer grade filaments in my newer machine. Be great if you could add some images with better details on issue area how it comes apart etc. So you are saying the plastic part is bolting to the brass bearing? Are you also saying original design was high temp glue only attaching it to the brass bearing? Fix involves a tapped hole on bearing and threading machine screw into the brass bearing and using super high temp silicone? I will be inspecting this evening after doing many many hours of high temp runs and very abrasive GF and CF runs continuously for extended periods, see what I find. Is the bolt pushing against the brass bearing? Is there a thread for machine screw or only pressure of it pushing on bearing? Wish you would take close up pic of brass bearing, so could see details of it's design. Looking back and pausing looks like glue or silicone dries and bonds the plastic to the brass bearing exterior surface, your machine screws only hold casing together, is this correct?
Hi dude! No problems running material at all.
I'm not going to open up the unit again, already stripped 2 of the 4 self tapper that hold the shell together (another gripe i have,drilled it and fixed it)
You can see in the video 2 white dots, that's the "glue" they inject from the back to hold the bearing in place so it doesn't rock back and forward in the cavity.
Probably a 2 composite as it's hard as a rock, i can see that it deformed a bit but mine definitely got underfilled.
2 other people seem to have the same experience, solid in the beginning with deformation after a few prints and a loose head as a results.
Didn't see the pictures but if i have to guess probably also a lack of injected material.
The fix indeed involves using 2 self tapper or 2 bolts like i used as these holes are not pre threaded.
These bolts push on the bearing to take away the play.
The cavity seems to be made for the bigger ball bearing and not the brass bushing.
I added high temp silicone between the 2 white dots to permanently fill the cavity so i can now just remove the 2 bolts as this isn't going to move anytime soon.
The complete head is held together with self tappers into plastic, loosen them a few times and you will strip them.
Now having to add 2 bolts that push on the bushing isn't going to help as you now apply pressure on the casing and the 4 selftappers.
Another reason i filled the void with something.
ow i forgot, inspecting another design flaw.
Drop the bed to 278mm and tell me what happens in 15 ish minutes.
Probably will go into protection because the chamber temp is going to tank.
Reason, buildplate chokes of the chamber heater so any hot print above 275 mm in my case is going to fail.
Somebody reached out and it in fact its also the case on my sample only i didn't waste a 20 hour print and a roll of filament.
@@NoizieWorks inspected it, bearing tight and been making tall prints abs with chamber heating running no issues seen after about 15 plates run to date but will keep eye out for this. Prints were 10cm height not sure if that would have reached zone? Looking visually rhink see where you talking heater vent at bottom of case about 4 cm tall maybe 5cm can see what would happen….needs a side discharge not fwd for hot air…. Otherwise build plate will block it, perhaps rotate it 90 degree so blows along front glass? And add a 60 degree deflector after rotated 90 degrees. Loose about 1.75 inch in build height when running engineer material…. Think will look at rotation by 90 degrees or different heater design…
@JTs3DPrints heater is glued in from what I heard.
Somebody made a macro to automatically turn off the heater past a certain point.
I set mine to 270mm and that seems to work.
Facing an issue with the proximity sensor at high temps.
Now issue with bed at 90°C and chamber at 65°C but with bed at 120°C the proximity sensor dont trigger at all leading to nozzle to bed collision.
It could be a faultly sensor or an unrated sensor for high temp.
Will check with my second Xplus4. Could you check with yours ?
@@PequignotMichel will do!
@@NoizieWorks Testing the other PLUS 4 > No issue at all ! Seems to be a faultly sensor.
Looks like I have the same issue. The bed leveling is very inconsistent at high temps
Then i would reach out to Qidi
Good video as usual.
I notice you used high temp silicone for the bearing screws - would low-torque / anti vibration thread glue be adequate if it’s solid until >150C?
Surely the screws would never see those temps even at full operation with heating, as they are not in contact with the nozzle?
Appreciate your advice!
It's not on the screws but between them in the case they should come loose the void behind the bearing is filled.
Those bolts are just screwed into un threaded plastic.
@@NoizieWorks I see - so apply a dab of it then screw them in fully?
@PerfectPudding untill you feel resistance and the cage feels locked. Let the silicone dry and that should fix it. I printed 2 15 hour prints back to back and she's solid now.
@@NoizieWorks thanks mate, really appreciate your advice. You do a lot to set my mind at ease
@PerfectPudding No problem brother ✌️
What type of silicone glue did you use?
The high temp kind, doesn't matter what brand. I picked the cheapest one
@@NoizieWorks thanks
As a mechanical engineer with several years of mechanical design experience QIDI's method of bearing capture is about as amateurish as I've ever seen. I was on the verge of buying one of these but between this, the SSR relay overheating, and the chamber heater blockage issue I've changed my mind. Relying on QIDI's customers as a method to find quality assurance issues is wrong.
Probably 1 of the worst problem filled machines i ever reviewed.
Still hoping on a ssr recall.
Just wondering: with the positioning of the exclusion zones, you could slightly rotate a rectangle to just miss those 2 zones. So the question then is what the maximum surface/dimensions of such a slightly rotated rectangle would be. I'd guess it would still be relatively close to 300x300, no?
You might win 5mm yes(need to test it) but the question is: Do you need it to be square and most importantly should this be disclosed on the marketing material?
I only found out trying to do a first layer test so that sucks if you buy it to use every mm² to come to this conclusion.
Another quality control issue : the extruder.
Multiple "clogs" using PETG > issue coming from the spring tensionner which was blocked by the small protrusion of the cover. By the way, all the screws were not screwed correctly.
@@PequignotMichel noted
I have a qidi Max3 printer only about 3 month's old making rubbing sounds not all the time but sometimes and im seeing a kinda rubbing on the bar build up. I did put some 3 in 1 oil on it when it first started making the rubbing sound. it helped but slowly coming back.
I have noticed that enclosed (hot) printers need more maintenance. ABS is famous for depositing crap all over the printer like rails.
Clean them regularly and use a thin oil to lube the rails. Depending on print hours this is a bi-weekly procedure as the oils evaporate a lot faster then grease. Hope it helps
@@NoizieWorks I would love to take that hotend and put it on the max3. Do they use the same board? the Max3 and this plus 4?
Don't have a xmax 3 unfortunately, you can send a picture to me of the boards to compare noizieworks@gmail.com
Try to avoid 3 in 1 oils for this type of application.
Usually have some kind of solvent in them which could attack belts etc.
Dedicated lubricating oils would be best.
@@freedomofmotion I only apply to the rods. I dont get any on the belts or bed it is a oil. for the belts use vaseline.
If you add a spring between the head of the bolt and the clamshell the tension from the spring should stop it from vibrating loose.
@@freedomofmotion Many options on how to fix it for sure.
I don't have my unit yet, but it'll be here Wednesday. Is there a type of spring that you have in mind?
It's my first 3D printer, but I'm a tinkerer, and I love figuring out solutions to fix and improve things.
@@Decimus-Magnus Just one from a clothes peg would probably be fine but you will need washers for sure.
Basically any spring that is smaller diameter than the head of the bolt but larger than the threads would be fine 😁
The only concern i have is the plastic you turn the screw in. It's not threaded or has a brass insert to reinforce so be careful.
@@NoizieWorks Wow that's such a janky official fix from qidi then 🤣
I got my plus4 last week and it’s screen wasn’t turning on. Their support team was quick to answer and offered troubleshooting options, however I’m now waiting on a new screen. If anyone is interested in buying a Plus4 I would wait a couple months until they fix the issues.
Check the USB Cable on the Mainbord
so a high temp silicon glue is the fix?
@@JohnDoe-ot5ir together with the 2 bolts recommended by qidi. I just added the silicone to fill the void IF those bolts get loose for the reasons explained
@NoizieWorks ok thanks. My plus4 arrives today.
@@JohnDoe-ot5ir Hope you have a great time!
@NoizieWorks I currently have a p1s and x1c and still excited for the plus 4.
@@JohnDoe-ot5ir whats is Your opinion after 3 months with qidi ?
I bought a Q1 Pro on launch day, and had mostly issues. I want to love Qidi but their QC seems to be off, or they use their early adopters as beta testers.
@@bp8__163 yes and no, i think they lack the testing on scale and 3rd party beta testing to iron out some things most can find within an hour of usage.
Also, perhaps qidi are doing a bit of fixing before shipping, my printer has not been shipped yet. It's been 1 week I think.
@freedomofmotion hmmmm... eu should have plenty of stock, not sure for the rest.
I wonder how they fix that when it's shipped so maybe worth checking in why it's taking so long.
@@NoizieWorks I'm in the EU ( UK) I've just sent an email today about it.
If they do have enough explanation I'll share it here.
Its Q4 now so waiting any day for flashforge to announce what their larger printer will be. Then I’ll decide
Wow, they couldn't use a linear bearing on the bottom like they did on top.
I saw that earlier on mine I thnk its a feature for cutting filament for ams
@PicklePrinter3dprinting24 yes and apparently there are already people running macro for it.
I am not byass I own a p1s a1 mini qudi q1 pro and elgoo neptune 4 pro and just ordered a.plus 4. Just depends on what your printing
@@THEMANCAVE2023 That's the right mindset!
what is Your opinion after 3 months ?
Had the same Problem, mine was also one of the first
@@nightcomex2362 Thanks for sharing, how did you fix it?
@@NoizieWorks for now just inserted 2 m3x8 bolts. I had no high temp glue on hand. The quality is much much better now, but Not „Perfect“. Sometime i have underextrusion when the head comes on the bed (mean, everytime After the head lifts)
Did you do any filament tuning? I found that the stock profiles are pretty bad with to much pressure advance etc
@@NoizieWorks for now I just copied the profiles from my bambu studio and used my bambu filament (pla,abs,petg) for abs 260degree, 16qmm, 0,96 Flow, 0.03 pa
I also had minimal ringing, Perhaps the Printer has to run a Little bit for getting smoother (was the Same for my x1c)
Seeing bronze bushings instead of linear rod bearings is rather disappointing….
@Nowen97 top one is a bearing and not a bushing, interested to know why but i'm just a caveman running around with a stick to poke things
Probably because of wear, bushing don't just wear out much faster than bearings buy, they also wear out the rods. Bearings can be smoother too, the only benefit to bushings I can see is they're a little lighter and cheaper.
All these corexy printers use them. X1c, k1, k1 max, x max 3, x plus 3, q1 pro, p1p, p1s, you name it, they all use them. These printers run holllw steel rods. Unlike Bambu using carbon fiber rods. The carbon fiber is mildly abrasive and will wear them down faster than polished steel. At least they did something different with the plus4. It has most of the load on the top linear bearing that is steel balls. The bottom is basically to steady it. But all these damn corexy use them unfortunately. When one of these companies use them, the rest use them unfortunately. Also,.I am not having very good luck with my new plus4. The test prints are coming out bad, all wavy and vfa's on them. It's also very loud cause the things is making very loud rubbing noises and the side panels makenit echo through the room so loud. I am pretty pissed I already gotta mess with this damn thing. Both my q1 pros printed perfect out of the box, and still do. I constantly have to tune my x max 3's to get decent prints out of them. I bought this plus4 to get away from that, but looks like I got a problematic 1st gen of this damn printer. I really don't feel like ripping this 🤬 thing apart.
Buyer beware, mine is 2 days old and has not printed anything, heater bed is defective. My Bambu Labs works perfectly, so does my BIQU Bx and B1, my Creality Ender 5 Plus and my Chiron.
Again I believe your problem is actually a power supply voltage setting. Please check.
Man can't you just print a z-wobble tower?
It's the standard test, people can print that at home and see the difference.
I just got the loose bearing today
That's unfortunate! It's fixable, at least you have that
@@NoizieWorks what screws did you use again size wise
@streamlobby2341 if i'm not mistaken qidi said M3x18 but not 100% sure
Why are printer manufacturers never transparent about the real build size? .. 305x305 is not the size.. Why advertise it as such then? .. FLsun did the same trick with their new printers. This in combination with loose bearings; i think i'll stick with Bambu for now.
@@HuskyRides I don't get it either
Because of the cutter, bambu p1s/x1c has a larger unprintable area in the left front that can't print 256*256, did you really use bambu？
Technically it can print 310x310 with a few small exclusion zones is my understanding.
@802Garage Not in the qidi studio, i originally imported a 305x305 square and it started complaining about those zones so i adjusted until it fitted.
The measurements i gave are the maximum XY according to the slicer.
Right now i really need this thing to start spitting plastic for a project so feel free to try it out and get back to me if these are unnecessary boundaries.
It could be that they need to update the slicer but at that point i will pass it on directly.
@@NoizieWorks imo its a bit scummy to tell buyers it can print 305x305 when in reality it can only print 298x288. if you advertise it as 305x305 just fckn add extra way for the nozzle cleaning and filament cutter.
bambulab is the best is a metalsheat metallo che fa rumore e fa schifo come macchina nemmeno se me la regalano la prendo e ingombrante rumorosa e poco precisa per non parlare del peso ce un trattore dentro
I have Bambulab, I had to send back the A1 because it could catch fire, then I got the P1S and do you know the actual print area? Yes, it is smaller than what is declared, as you can see it does not seem better than the others and if you were registered on some Bambulab forum, you would see how many people have problems with Bambulab