Lol someone else told me that. You know.where my memory stick was ??? In my trash I missed completely. Thankfully I got it out today before trash pickup they are printing now. Thank you for sharing it is much appreciated
@@greywolf2006 honestly I agree with you but they must assume this isnt your first or only printer in the area. Also they must think you can get it close enough to print it ha idk what the thought is, rather than providing printed blocks.
Thanx for the video! Because this is the only video on this process on TH-cam. Just one thing... I do not think that deform-able cardboard boxes are suitable for this calibration. I do recommend for others to print the attached calibration blocks and do the calibration with them.
Interesting. You probably got an early example, because mine had print bed fixators mounted and print bed was on the very bottom tightly in place. I had no issues with mine whatsoever and the machine hardware is rock solid. Hardware wise probably the best printer on the market right now.
I did actually I found out later I had to print the blocks to fix this issue. I still learn everyday 😆. And I must agree it's very hard to beat this printer from any front it really is a great printer. Thanks for sharing happy printing
Honestly mine has been flawless. And ams coming in 2025. That said as a first time.user p1s with ams. .Just be aware pla,petg,small abs,asa prints are your limits aubergine pet-cf
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE VIDEO, VERY HELPFULL. I HAVE 2 QIDI X-PLUS3 A FIRST AND THE NEW VERSION , AND I AM VERY HAPPY WITH THEM, AND I AM CONSIDERING BUYING THE QIDI PLUS 4 , AND WATCHING TH-cam VIDEOS , I HAVE SEEN A FEW THING GOING BAD WITH THIS UNIT , WHY DOES QIDI KEEP PUSHING OUT MACHINES, SO WE HAVE TO FIX I DO NOT KNOW. WITH THAT BEING SAID I AM GRATFULL FOR VIDEOS LIKE THIS VERY INFORMATIVE AND HELPFULL , THANKS . LOOKING FORWARDS TO THE COMING QIDI BOX
Your welcome. Its still a very sound capable printer. It is not to say the apparent lack of QC is not frustrating. I've learned if you don't want to tinker buy bambu labs, ok with tinkering a little QIDI is best bang for your dollar. I'm still happy I bought it
Do you think this will work for the xmax 3? I had to change the pulley for the z screws and now one side is lower. Are the plus 4 z screws linked together with a belt like the xmax 3? Thanks.
It should. On the plus4 you can unlock the z screws from touchscreen and just spin each z rod freely from stepper motor. Are you saying the xmax3 does not have independent steppers for each z rod ? Either way you should be able to level bed and check th wiki
Those 2 blocks with that u notch in them in the test print files on the printer, they are to level out the build plate platform. If you print them out, keep them on hand. So if the platform goes wonky again, you place them on the bottom under the platform, and the lead screws sit in that U notch. Run the platform down and they bump into those blocks and level the platform out. Qidi has vids on how to do this
@@THEMANCAVE2023 I'm surprised Qidi doesn't have the start print macro do Z tilt. Personally I would add Z_TILT_ADJUST directly after the G28, and add another G28 after. So G28, Z_TILT_ADJUST, G28.
At least someone with the correct input. I saw the two boxes approach and could not believe people would consider that a solution. Why is Qidi even moving the bed all the way down? They just need to do a z-tilt adjust. That said, the fact that something is making the bed go out of whack at the bottom also makes me wonder about their design and build quality. Add this to the loose bearings and heater exit blocked when printing high parts and then giving a fatal error and it does not seem that fantastic as some make it out to be.
@@THEMANCAVE2023 Hey, thanks, this is my firsts days with a Klipper printer (and also a CoreXY), nonetheless, in the Qidi Studio -> device tab-> tool -> tools drop down button, there is a Z_Tilt-Adjust, and that work perfectly. thanks.
It's the old Ender 5 / Ender 5 plus trick. The Z-motors at some point get out of sync by missing a step or whatever. Just print 2 or 4 exact the same studs and have the bed "crash" into the studs to start with at 0 - level.
I have a suggestion to help speed this process up for you and prevent you from having to manually add blocks etcetera on a routine basis. Print a dual-sided tuning fork of sorts diagonally on this bed using some really rigid engineering filament. They don't have to be really thick if they are rigid enough (thinking PPA-CF, PPS-CF or PET-CF). Design the part to loosely lap around the Z axis leadscrews when laid flat and just leave it in the printer all the time unless you really need that last 5mm of clearance to finish a print. That way the printer will run into that part when calibrating and it will serve the same function as the boxes etcetera, but will be very low profile allowing you to just leave them in the printer 99% of the time.
@@THEMANCAVE2023 Absolutely. I am unsure of your familiarity with CAD as I just tuned in to your channel for the first time. I would be happy to generate that in CAD for you and send you the DXF and STL files if ya want. Just let me know how far apart the leadscrews are and what their OD is and then I'll post a link to the Makerworld site for download that you can share. Gonna subscribe as you and I have some similar interests. I'm currently designing a Roni using Muzzy's V3 version as a template, but making it more to my own tastes by modding almost everything about it LOL. Only printing the fitment stuff right now out of PLA ad ABS, but will be using the PPA-CF eventually to print the final item.
On the USB drive that came with my Plus4 in the folder Test file > QD_Gcode is a file named "Platform horizontal blocks.gcode" I was trying to figure out what those were for. It looks like they would be placed under the bed and around the leadscrew.
Yes you are correct. I had no idea what those were for but now I do. I just got mine back in service had qidi send me a new heater relay for those of us in 120v and printed a new c9ver
Update firmware. In the tools menu its called platform reset. Make sure all your rods and lead screws are lubricated. If it keeps happening more often than not, you could have a bad stepper motor or driver.
Dealing with 0.01mm making the difference in consistent layers, trying to level by eye is never going to work. Using known precise tools is always the way. Its a frustrating pu rsuit with not alot of documentation from manyfacturers flying by the seat of their pants. However for not much money, you get a lot of machinery that does work if you get around the quirks and can manage to calibrate do basic setup and maintenance. Starting with a cheap creality or elegoo that needs hands on setup and troubke shooting is good grounding .
On the memory stick provided with the printer there are leveling blocks you can print to do this 👍
Lol someone else told me that. You know.where my memory stick was ??? In my trash I missed completely. Thankfully I got it out today before trash pickup they are printing now. Thank you for sharing it is much appreciated
great idea! how will you print it with an unleveled printerbed?
@greywolf2006 by eye or with a ruler will be close enough but TBH I have never done either and it prints awesome 👍
@@greywolf2006 honestly I agree with you but they must assume this isnt your first or only printer in the area. Also they must think you can get it close enough to print it ha idk what the thought is, rather than providing printed blocks.
Thanx for the video! Because this is the only video on this process on TH-cam. Just one thing... I do not think that deform-able cardboard boxes are suitable for this calibration. I do recommend for others to print the attached calibration blocks and do the calibration with them.
Your welcome and thanks for the kind words and advice
I love the calibrated cardboard boxes lo :) made my day lol
Lmao 🤣 I'm from. Richmond co nc what ya expect from me lol 😆
Interesting. You probably got an early example, because mine had print bed fixators mounted and print bed was on the very bottom tightly in place. I had no issues with mine whatsoever and the machine hardware is rock solid. Hardware wise probably the best printer on the market right now.
I did actually I found out later I had to print the blocks to fix this issue. I still learn everyday 😆.
And I must agree it's very hard to beat this printer from any front it really is a great printer.
Thanks for sharing happy printing
You remind me of Pap and how he was always able to fix things by using knowledge gained from other endeavors. ❤
Love that!
I had the same thing happen after a build, but all I did to fix the issue was re-level it and it has been perfect since.
Thanks for sharing 😊
Are you happy with the quality of the finished product? Or would you suggest P1S?
Honestly mine has been flawless. And ams coming in 2025. That said as a first time.user p1s with ams. .Just be aware pla,petg,small abs,asa prints are your limits aubergine pet-cf
@THEMANCAVE2023 do you own both?
Lol I own 1 p1s / 1 a1 mini / 1 plus 4 / 1 q1 pro / 1 elegoo neptune 4 pro / 1 longer 40w diode laser
I am leaning plus 4. Do you agree the high temps open the door to more products to print with.
Great video!
Thanks so much
THANK YOU SO MUCH FOR THE VIDEO, VERY HELPFULL. I HAVE 2 QIDI X-PLUS3 A FIRST AND THE NEW VERSION , AND I AM VERY HAPPY WITH THEM, AND I AM CONSIDERING BUYING THE QIDI PLUS 4 , AND WATCHING TH-cam VIDEOS , I HAVE SEEN A FEW THING GOING BAD WITH THIS UNIT , WHY DOES QIDI KEEP PUSHING OUT MACHINES, SO WE HAVE TO FIX I DO NOT KNOW. WITH THAT BEING SAID I AM GRATFULL FOR VIDEOS LIKE THIS VERY INFORMATIVE AND HELPFULL , THANKS .
LOOKING FORWARDS TO THE COMING QIDI BOX
Your welcome. Its still a very sound capable printer. It is not to say the apparent lack of QC is not frustrating. I've learned if you don't want to tinker buy bambu labs, ok with tinkering a little QIDI is best bang for your dollar. I'm still happy I bought it
@@THEMANCAVE2023 I still have my Qidi Max 2. 98lbs of slow printing. I still love it though. Customer service is the best I have ever seen.
Thank you!!
Your very welcome
Do you think this will work for the xmax 3? I had to change the pulley for the z screws and now one side is lower. Are the plus 4 z screws linked together with a belt like the xmax 3? Thanks.
It should. On the plus4 you can unlock the z screws from touchscreen and just spin each z rod freely from stepper motor.
Are you saying the xmax3 does not have independent steppers for each z rod ?
Either way you should be able to level bed and check th wiki
Those 2 blocks with that u notch in them in the test print files on the printer, they are to level out the build plate platform. If you print them out, keep them on hand. So if the platform goes wonky again, you place them on the bottom under the platform, and the lead screws sit in that U notch. Run the platform down and they bump into those blocks and level the platform out. Qidi has vids on how to do this
Thanks for sharing this. I did not even put 2 and 2 together till.you said that lol 🤷♂️
@@THEMANCAVE2023 yeah it's funny they have the blocks usb, but if this is the only printer out luck on that print haha
Ummm. Z_tilt_adjust. Just run that from the fluid console and it'll fix it on it's own. That's standard klipper functionality.
Well thanks had not thought of that
@@THEMANCAVE2023 I'm surprised Qidi doesn't have the start print macro do Z tilt. Personally I would add Z_TILT_ADJUST directly after the G28, and add another G28 after. So G28, Z_TILT_ADJUST, G28.
At least someone with the correct input. I saw the two boxes approach and could not believe people would consider that a solution. Why is Qidi even moving the bed all the way down? They just need to do a z-tilt adjust. That said, the fact that something is making the bed go out of whack at the bottom also makes me wonder about their design and build quality. Add this to the loose bearings and heater exit blocked when printing high parts and then giving a fatal error and it does not seem that fantastic as some make it out to be.
@@THEMANCAVE2023 Hey, thanks, this is my firsts days with a Klipper printer (and also a CoreXY), nonetheless, in the Qidi Studio -> device tab-> tool -> tools drop down button, there is a Z_Tilt-Adjust, and that work perfectly. thanks.
I ran Z_tilt_adjust macro and the printer did some measurements but there was no adjustment. Bed stayed bias. Can you tell me why was that?
It's the old Ender 5 / Ender 5 plus trick. The Z-motors at some point get out of sync by missing a step or whatever. Just print 2 or 4 exact the same studs and have the bed "crash" into the studs to start with at 0 - level.
Thanks for sharing
I have a suggestion to help speed this process up for you and prevent you from having to manually add blocks etcetera on a routine basis. Print a dual-sided tuning fork of sorts diagonally on this bed using some really rigid engineering filament. They don't have to be really thick if they are rigid enough (thinking PPA-CF, PPS-CF or PET-CF). Design the part to loosely lap around the Z axis leadscrews when laid flat and just leave it in the printer all the time unless you really need that last 5mm of clearance to finish a print. That way the printer will run into that part when calibrating and it will serve the same function as the boxes etcetera, but will be very low profile allowing you to just leave them in the printer 99% of the time.
Thank you for the very informative post that's a good idea and as a newer 3d printer 6 months in i appreciate any advise thanks again
@@THEMANCAVE2023 Absolutely. I am unsure of your familiarity with CAD as I just tuned in to your channel for the first time. I would be happy to generate that in CAD for you and send you the DXF and STL files if ya want. Just let me know how far apart the leadscrews are and what their OD is and then I'll post a link to the Makerworld site for download that you can share.
Gonna subscribe as you and I have some similar interests. I'm currently designing a Roni using Muzzy's V3 version as a template, but making it more to my own tastes by modding almost everything about it LOL. Only printing the fitment stuff right now out of PLA ad ABS, but will be using the PPA-CF eventually to print the final item.
On the USB drive that came with my Plus4 in the folder Test file > QD_Gcode is a file
named "Platform horizontal blocks.gcode" I was trying to figure out what those were for.
It looks like they would be placed under the bed and around the leadscrew.
Yes you are correct. I had no idea what those were for but now I do.
I just got mine back in service had qidi send me a new heater relay for those of us in 120v and printed a new c9ver
Update firmware. In the tools menu its called platform reset. Make sure all your rods and lead screws are lubricated. If it keeps happening more often than not, you could have a bad stepper motor or driver.
Thanks
Dealing with 0.01mm making the difference in consistent layers, trying to level by eye is never going to work. Using known precise tools is always the way. Its a frustrating pu rsuit with not alot of documentation from manyfacturers flying by the seat of their pants. However for not much money, you get a lot of machinery that does work if you get around the quirks and can manage to calibrate do basic setup and maintenance. Starting with a cheap creality or elegoo that needs hands on setup and troubke shooting is good grounding .
Thanks for sharing your thoughts