Best filament calibration in ORCA that I've seen on TH-cam. I like that you talk about and show what to look for on the test prints and explain why. Thank you!
@Waltkat Your input means a lot! I do my best to make instruction clear, concise and easy to follow along with. With each process/project that I capture, my approach is simple. Asking myself, "How would I have wanted to be taught this when I needed the information most?" It's great to hear of just how much help these videos are providing the community. Thanks for taking the time to let me know of your experience watching them!
@@CovenantCustomI totally agree. Thank you for putting this together! I was ignoring those calibration prints because I didn’t have time to think about them and figure out what to modify.
@ It is such a worthwhile process that even when my time is limited, I dedicate part of it to confirm calibrations. Just to be positive that the print quality will be worth it! Always a great process to perform to achieve good looking prints.
Separating the Pass 1 and Pass 2 of the flow rate tests with the pressure advance test is obvious now that you've shared it 🤯. Time to re-run my configs.
@RocktCityTim If you've tuned and tested it with good results, I'd say to keep printing but if you are genuinely curious or if your prints aren't as precise as you are hoping for, by all means, try it out!
Many thanks! I like to cover projects/processes in a way that if I was searching, it would be the resource that was needed. I am happy to know that these videos can be a resource for the 3D printing community. Thanks for dropping in to provide your input. Happy printing!
@JTs3DPrints Thank you! It was my first experience with screen recording, making it a fun new element to tie into videos. I had a few people ask me to cover it, and I'm honestly surprised about just how many makers have found it helpful. Love giving back to the community and appreciate you dropping in with some feedback!
I just wanted to thank you for such great videos. I'm newer to 3D printing, and it's been overwhelming knowing where to start, but you have been amazing. Please don't stop. I will be following you for my K1 and 3D printing journey.
@brownlkt We all start somewhere and it's a process where you just keep on learning! I cover what I'm familiar with to help those that are unfamiliar. As time progresses, my knowledge will expand and so will yours through whatever resources you find provide the greatest help! Thanks for stopping by and showing your support. Happy to have you here!
I want to thank you for this video. I am fairly new to this hobby. Your explanation of each test was great. This will definitely improve my print quality. Again thank you!
Welcome to the 3D printing community, we are happy to have you here! Thank you for being proactive with your research and finding this video to help guide you. Your efforts to look for the answers instead of asking the same question that is repeatedly posted will provide a wide range of support from those that have been printing for years. Thanks for dropping in and providing your feedback, it is sincerely valued. Now go forth and print great things! Happy printing 😎👍
Well done. Thank you. Super clear voice and explanations. Even for people that are familiar, I find your work flow quite good and found myself questioning my older methods. Keep going! Cheers :)
Many thanks! I definitely have had my fair share of printer struggles (still do!) but figure that if I can help others avoid them altogether, I will continue to take on the challenge of making videos so that printing can be as enjoyable as I know it to be for the rest of the community. I appreciate your feedback! It certainly means a lot to know that the guide is still worth a watch even after using OrcaSlicer for a period of time.
Thank you so much! I've been printing since 2018 and since last year, I was lacking knowledge on calibration under Klipper. Your video was exactly what I needed. Great content 👌
@louis-philippeyargeau2497 Happy to share what I've learned and look forward to continuing to give back to the community as it has done for me! Happy printing!
Hey acozad! Great to see you on here! Thanks for the kind words and I greatly appreciate the support. It's the encouragement from others that has progressed this channel to where we are today. Always thinking about the projects that lie ahead and covering them for the benefit of others. See you on the next one!
Just a little pointer for everyone, on the temp tower, the little cones are also used to test layer adhesion. Trying to snap them should help you feel which required the most effort.
@@corneliofehr8001 I do this on occasion if I'm not confident in how well the layers are holding. Great tip! Appreciate you dropping in with that info for the community to put to use!
@corneliofehr8001 Another great piece of info! I tried to follow the guide as closely as possible to prevent confusion if compared/utilized alongside the video but that formula does the job as well!
Thank you so much im new too 3d printing and i have bought a k1c which will arive soon i watched a lot of videos but yours are really great i lesrned a lot. Thank you
@jasperder Welcome to the 3D printing community, we're happy to have you! I really do appreciate that, it means a lot! As you are new to printing, all of this is relatively new to me and I'm happy that others are enjoying the material in these videos. Thanks for dropping into the comments to share. I've got some simple video projects coming up that may not improve your printer but will improve your printing experience. Stay tuned!
@@jasperder It is a goal of mine to be able to dedicate the time necessary to share more helpful information with this close knit community! Look forward to seeing you on the next one!
As a new print enthusiast, just printed my leaning tower calibration with the filament that came with the printer, and thought... now what :) I loved your tutorial. Very precise and explanative. I was wondering why dont the files you print for calibration have markers on the sides so you can read the setting versus measuring with caliphers.
Welcome to the 3D printing community, we're happy to have you here! This video should help provide some foundational knowledge to your printing process. Thank you for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated! In regard to the mention of markers on the calibration tests, I actually prefer that they don't! The reason behind this is, a higher level of precision can be achieved by using calipers and a formula for that specific test. The max volumetric test for example shows the steps but regardless of them being present, I will always try to find the best measurement when filament tuning and a set of calipers is necessary for that approach. It is an incredibly helpful tool to have in the collection and used among a variety of printer related projects otherwise! I will be covering my go to tools in an upcoming video. Thanks for stopping by and I look forward to seeing you on the next one! Happy printing!
@dkgoodrich8899 Thank you! There have been many times that I've considered building a Voron. Maybe one day I'll have a 2.4 in the collection. If they want to sponsor a build 😅 My next project (which I've already got everything sourced for) will be a K1MaxVZ. AWD, Triple Z, linear rails on X & Y w/ 1515 and 2020 extrusions, printed double sheer motor mounts/XY joints/front tensioners, VZ toolhead/carriage, Goliath hotend, LGX lite v2 extruder, CPAP parts cooling, M8P w/ CM4 using TMC2209 & 5160T Pro drivers, BTT TFT43 display, upgraded power supply, side frame I-beams and printed bracing, 6mm bed with 750W heater, a handful of fans/miscellaneous electronics like SSR's pigtails/wiring and potentially a few more items that haven't made the list. It will be a fun one!
@ once mine was ironed out @ 42v, printing in the 550-700mmsec range, traveling at 80k - it’s the most rewarding thing I’ve done in a long time. Someone as intelligent as you, would make the most of a custom build
@@dkgoodrich8899 Impressive work! Those are results that any 3D printing enthusiast would be happy with. If I did go the DIY route (not like the K1MaxVZ doesn't meet that criteria with all that will be replaced/upgraded), I'd go for a vcore4. My expectations for the K1MaxVZ would be 800mm/s3 at around 30k accel for quality output which will exceed all other printers that I've owned to date. We shall see!
@kb1Legendflaco It changed the game when I first learned about tuning filament years ago (when you would manually change gcode files). With the files automatically altered dependent on the values you set, it removes the guesswork and reduces the time it takes to tune. Brilliant stuff!
Appreciate your feedback! The filament tuning process requires about 100g of filament, providing 900g of a properly tuned material for the first spool you run through. If you end up purchasing the same filament again (matching manufacturer/material/color), it is highly likely that you'll be able to utilize the full spool without any additional calibrations by selecting that filament profile. There is a possibility that it may require minor tweaks as the properties could change minimally from batch to batch but that typically requires 50g or less. I very rarely run into that but there is still potential for it to happen.
@TheGlitterMan I'd suggest keeping the default scale just due to the values and operations that are being tested. It is a worthwhile use of filament and yields considerable returns on the 100g that is utilized.
@@CovenantCustom When I'm using Creality Print 6 the flow test didn't fit my V3SE so I have to click yes to fit the print bed. I'm still trying to figure out the right setting for Inland PLA+ WHITE that I got from MicroCenter.
@TheGlitterMan I can confirm that with the same build volume on the Creality K1 used in this video, no adjustments are required through Orcaslicer. Some filaments can be tricky to work with but knowing what to look for so that an expected value is an accurate choice was my biggest hang up when I was performing calibrations years back. Just takes a little bit of time to get the hang of is all! Happy printing!
@TheGlitterMan Make sure the filament has been properly dried and that it remains dehydrated during the print. Make sure that you arent melting the filament too hot; good rule of thumb is to stay within the range that the manufacturer suggests. Pay close attention to the retraction settings test to help eliminate stringing.
@jonathonodonnell253 Yes definitely! Changing nozzle sizes will require their own profile. Due to the increase of the internal diameter from 0.4mm to 0.6mm, it will require revisiting the calibration process altogether.
@@CovenantCustomsince orca has changed somethings I’ve been doing the same with all my filaments. Also redoing the cal if I changed nozzle diameter. The only other thing I do is a Califlower to measure shrinkage. Most of the stuff I print has to fit with other real world items.
@jonathonodonnell253 All necessary steps to take in order to achieve dimensionally accurate prints! You've definitely got the right idea for keeping everything in spec.
Super insightful, how much filament did it use for all calibration in total? Seems like a lot, but I'm sure it's more for print farm reliability rather than single use/color spools.
@Longfu2000 For all of the tests combined, it used 93g. Well worth it if it means that the rest of the spool will provide successful prints with improved quality!
Since you calibrated ASA, which I’m also trying to calibrate, did you preheat the chamber before each print and let each print cool down before removing? I always do that when I’m actually printing with ASA, so it seems only natural to do the same thing with the calibrating. The only problem is it takes a long time to perform each calibration step. No one ever talks about it in their calibration videos, but ASA can but very finicky as I’m sure you know. Hopefully you can answer!
@Sugarkryptonite I start the calibration process by heat soaking the chamber. Once it arrives at 30-35C, I begin printing. Once a calibration print is complete, I'll pull the build tray immediately following and remove the print. The chamber will hold temperature for the entirety of the process, maintaining temp as more calibration prints are sent and completed. Never have any issues with ABS/ASA which is why it is my primary material for most prints!
@CovenantCustom Hmm okay, thanks. I found on my bigger prints with ASA if I took the plate out of the heat right after printing, warping or cracking could occur. I guess for calibration it's not so bad, though. Also curious about the volumetric max flow rate test and best layer adhesion. I've found that even if the layer lines are nice up to a certain speed, layer adhesion takes a real hit. How do you take that into account? I'm struggling with it myself. I mostly just tried to crack the layers from the volumetric flow rate test by hand at different points to see where they were stronger, but it's not scientific. I saw you measured to the point with your calipers where the layers still looked good, but I think that layer adhesion is poor at those higher levels. In my experience with ASA, anyway. I've found I can only print at 10-13mm3/s with ASA to get good adhesion, so when I saw you put 35, I was intrigued.
@Sugarkryptonite With calibration prints, there is no need to let each plate cool. If we were looking for dimensional accuracy, then I would say that measuring the print after cooling down would be a requirement, but that concern does not apply for these tests. I do swap plates on larger prints not out of concern for any warping but due to the fact that removing a part from a PEI plate too soon could result in a cosmetic imperfection as it transfers that coating to the print itself. In the temp tower, you can check the quality of layer adhesion by breaking the spires with something like an allen key. The greater the resistance it has, the better the layer adhesion will be.
Amazing video, really helpful. I did notice you saved the filament profile with the calibration settings still overriding the cooling settings or was this on purpose?
Many thanks and fantastic observation! Since I consider cooling a follow up to filament calibration, I isolated those values after this sequence of prints. With my focus solely being on the built-in calibration tests, I did not want to create confusion by deviating from the tests provided in the drop-down menu.
My personal method is to print an overhang test with varying degrees. I'll print multiple, one at a time, (so that I have a control, knowing that cooling from prints alongside aren't exposing others with their ramped-up fan speed values - this might be overkill but it reduces false positives) with varying fan percentages. i.e. One print at 0%, another at 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%. You can also run the same prints at 0%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 100% or whatever your preference is. Once you find a good result, you can also fine tune it by running it +/- 5-10% to see if their are any substantial improvements. Inspect the underside and see which fan value produced the best results. Set that value to your minimum layer time of somewhere in the 20-35s range. For max layer time I'm usually within 80-100% for 1-3s to ensure that small overhangs/bridging have sufficient cooling so that all additional layers have a sufficient base to build off of.
6:46 soooo the raised edges according you will be the flowrate? after pass 2 you diden´t redo it so I surpose thats the case. I do struggle with this on my Elegoo Neptune 4 pro, and thought its PA sence its the outer paramiter.
@robertagnarp7502 The raised edges are caused by the flow rate being too high. It essentially causes the nozzle to drive itself through the filament during its tool path and as a result, it pushes the extruded filament out to the side (which creates the rough edge). I perform PA after flow rate pass 1 to make sure that rounded corners can not be a result of pressure advance when dialing in the flow rate for pass 2. I approach it in this sequence so that corners that seem "rounded out" are tuned with PA and can be an indicator that the flow rate is too high as it deposits more filament than what is necessary. PA is carried out prior to flow rate pass 2, to isolate focus on the 4 corners and not the edges of the print itself. If you are experiencing rough edges, that is indicative of the flow rate being too high.
@@CovenantCustom Thanks for the answer, appriciate it! But as a follow up question, can that cause the edges to buldge too? i thought PA is the enemy of this, in my case i got edges that is buldge, (have done pattern and tower yet same problem) also done shit ton flow rate, the middle is awesome but edges like yours is present. But maybe i should try doing it in that order, Pass 1 then PA then Pass 2. maybe it changes something.
@robertagnarp7502 If you are experiencing bulging that causes inconsistent layer lines and in turn, less than ideal surface quality that would be related to flow rate over PA. PA is responsible for the change in extrusion rate during accel/decel movements, i.e. corners, hard angles.
@@CovenantCustom Thing is, i tested this now with 4 test. one with current flowrate, down to 0.5 flowrate just to see if it will change. The rise of the edges is still present no matter what. i try to lower also other flowrates i could find but it seem that i never seem to find the core issue.
@robertagnarp7502 Does filament ooze from the nozzle when it gets up to temp prior to printing? That could be an indicator of the material is wet and in that case it will deposit more than intended. It may be worth running the temp tower again to make sure that you are not melting too hot.
I tried out the burnt nebula asa a while back and it was one of the worst filaments i have ever worked with. I dunno if it was a bad batch or what but it absorbed moisture like crazy. I dried it for over 24 hours and the layer adhesion was garbage. This what after multiple tuning sessions, after all that i just threw it away
@josephpitt3873 I had the same experience with it absorbing moisture as you can see. A lot of companies blend ASA with another material like PETG to mitigate this, so seeing how hygroscopic it was actually ended up being a good sign in my eyes. I ended up receiving the best results after approximately 72 hours at 70C, and every print turned out great. If you are trying to dry this filament at 50C or less, it will be difficult to achieve the same results. Another reason that I chose this filament is due to its pearlescent makeup. Between these two hurdles, it helped show just how important drying and filament tuning can be with some materials. With that said, It is definitely my go to pick for an ASA in this gradient from here on out.
hello you use 0.01 for the initial value in your pressure advance calculation. my question i in my klipper vanilla in printer .cfg it set to 0.04 does this meen that my initial value is 0.04 and not 0.01 ?
In theory, the value that you set it to in the calibration as well as the filament profile should effectively change the value for that filament. I can confirm this as my filament profiles, differ from my cfg values and it still produces the desired results with the appropriate value set in the slicer.
Should all the colours of the same material and the same brand use the same profile? I have read that black and white might need their own but most colours can use the same profile.
I would personally tune each and every filament that is being run through the printer for the first time. Although some profiles may be close, the formula that each company uses may differ from not only other manufacturers but even from batch to batch. I dedicate a profile to each filament and name it by manufacturer, material, color (and can even go as far as noting the machine it was tuned on and the nozzle size). You can take an existing profile and try it on another filament if you are in a pinch which might work or get you close, requiring small adjustments. To rule out any unusual behavior while printing, I prefer calibrating the filament before I begin sending prints.
@davids8458 If you access the Calibration drop down on the top left of the page, you can access all of the tests shown. They will automatically set your input values to produce the necessary changes through the process of each test. Happy printing!
@1SGBob1 Unfortunately test prints don't last long around these parts. It won't be the last that you see of this filament and the profile that was created for it though.
@billythorne3273 First question regarding it! 35mm/s is typically a good starting point for both direct drive and bowden set ups. I would start there and then proceed to check out Ellis' Print Guide for additional adjustments if required.
Perfect, thank you for the quick reply, just running my vfa now and then I'll look into the retraction speed settings, upgraded my ender 3 V2 to a DD sprite extruder and not got the retraction speeds down as of yet
Question - after the VFA test you mention @ 11:12 that you set your outer wall speed to match the speed from the test that looks the best, with the inner walls being run a bit higher. But where do you enter those values? I'm assuming you entered them into a profile speed section (rather than part of the filament settings)?
@Nuttavoot The VFA test is performed to find the ideal print speeds. This falls outside of filament settings and is changed under the "Speed" settings. You can set the appropriate speeds in the "Notes" section of the filament settings page to quickly alter them when switching between filaments for easier recall.
@DerekX100 Appreciate your feedback! It helps provide me with the input I need to improve. I am happy that this guide served you well. Enjoy your newly tuned profile and all those to follow!
@@CovenantCustom If you can add the equations for the calculations in the description or a link to a easy to read note would be amazing. Thank you again for the video
@@DerekX100 Updated with formulas, inspections and a link directly to the calibration guide 😎 This guide can also be found by selecting "Tutorial" in the Calibration drop down for easy access through OrcaSlicer direct.
@@CovenantCustom Hey its me again. My Neptune 3 uses a Bowden Extruder and i wasn't able to find anything about the setting on the tutorial link. Do you have any advice for the PA calibration?
Your opinion, is filament consistent across the brand or do you need to test each filament that you get? Example for PLA I generally use VoxelPLA . Should you run those tests on each batch you buy, for each color or just run at once for all filament from that brand?
Hey! Some filaments work well with other profiles (I've definitely run a print without changing the profile before and results haven't been terrible). By tuning each filament, it eliminates any guesswork on what profile you'd need to choose if it is specifically honed for that individual manufacturer/material/color. You may find that the values even come close after calibrating, but knowing that your tuned filament will perform as well as others ideally means that you'll calibrate a profile for each.
did this help with dimensional accuracy? i am so tired of working with iteration when i am trying to get accurate dimensions , and i dont know what type of calibration i need to do
So long as the equipment is dialed in (hardware secured, belts tensioned, axes are clean and properly lubricated without resistance, etc.), it most definitely will. By tuning the filament, you are able to achieve the best performance output from that material to reduce the remaining variable to slicer settings (printer and filament profile addressed). I would run through all of these calibrations if you are experiencing issues and your hardware (printer), has been checked through to make sure there are no mechanical issues that are causing dimensional inaccuracy to occur otherwise. There is also a tolerance test that can be found in the Calibration drop down, to confirm that all adjustments made during the tuning process provide favorable results.
Great video! Quick question on your K1, what mods/upgrades provided the most significant improvement for you? (VFAs, extrusion etc.) I did the devil designs xy fatbpy joints and tool head cover but I wonder if I should change or add more to it like ldo motors, linear rails and so on.
The major benefits of the linear rail gantry that improve print quality/reduce VFA would be the 20T motor pulleys, the higher quality stepper motors, the flanged bearings, the 16T idler pulleys, upgrading the LM8LUU bearings even though they aren't listed in the BOM or included in the kit (Fushi black chrome is your best bet) and of course the linear rail itself. All of the components come together and through their combined efforts provide better output. I ran the kit for 5 months before moving forward with the install on my other machine. I truly believe that it is one of the best ways to reduce VFA beyond the removal of the springs in the printhead and whatever other methods I tried prior to installing my first kit. Beyond print quality, input shaping also improved which allows me to run the printer at higher acceleration values without risking a drop in print quality. Considering I melt ABS/ASA as my baseline filament, if I can achieve better quality prints in less time than what the printer provides in stock configuration, I'm all for it. Definitely look into it and see if it is an upgrade that you are comfortable completing and if the proven results match what you are looking to receive out of your own machine. Although I no longer have two of the same machines to provide comparative results to, I can cover the difference in print quality between my upgraded K1 and factory K1 Max so that people can see the difference, side by side. If that is something you are interested in, let me know as I have both of them tuned to provide the best quality output for their configuration. It isn't an exact match as the deviation between the K1 and K1 Max is clearly evident, but it is as close as I can get to a comparison as they are still within the same family. I support whatever choice you make. Hope that helps answer your question!
After your max flow rate test before saving your filament you should have reverted it as the max flow rate test affects your filament cooling as well and you probably saved something you didn't want.
@chris993361 Cooling was addressed in its own tuning process following. Since it isn't a process within the filament calibration sequence, this was not covered. This guide purely serves to detail the isolated focus on the various tests of filament calibration and what can be achieved through them. Despite the built-in calibration being a great foundation for the values corresponding with each test, it is important to address cooling separately for the best results on bridging and overhangs.
@CovenantCustom Yeah. I follow with cooling stuff as well though I don't have a good set procedure for it. Usually it involves printing out a bunch of overhang tests and changing settings randomly until I'm happy with the result lol.
@@CovenantCustomI should also note that I went into this not expecting to learn anything new but I think I like your strategy of doing pressure advance in between the two flow tests. Thanks for the tip.
@@CovenantCustom not trying to be annoying but I just remembered something else I wanted to mention as well. The new yolo flow rate test doesn't require you to do math. It puts in flow calculations for the objects based on your current flow rate so that you can just directly minus or add the number shown.
@chris993361 I appreciate that feedback. It might be a personal preference, but I'm happy to hear that it provided value for someone who is already familiar with the process.
Thanks for this informative video. The slicer changes the 'Max fan speed threshold - layer time' to 1 when doing the PA test and then changes it to 0 when doing Maxflow rate and VFA. Should you be saving these values? I thought 'no' since you don't keep the nozzle temp that was changed for the temp test but I noticed you did at 10:00. Then do you save the last one? 0?
@@billionsean.k I perform a separate calibration for cooling altogether following filament tuning. I wouldn't rely on preset values that are produced for the tests alone as they have such an isolated focus.
These K1's clearly do not like printing slow. On the other hand, in stock configuration they can display similar results in the upper range. Those have been almost entirely addressed with upgrades performed on my machines but it would've been nice to have it produce similar results while stock. Can't say that I didn't enjoy the process though 😅
Dumb question. Do you do these calibration tests for each individual filament color? I am new to orca slice and hueforge both. Thank you for the video.
Every time I run a filament I've never melted before, I will make a new profile specific to that filament (i.e. I've melted a black ABS from one manufacturer but will rerun calibration if I pick up black ABS from another manufacturer). In the same regard, even if it is the same manufacturer and material type but it is a different color (i.e. Polymaker Metallic Blue ABS and Polymaker Metallic Green ABS), I will run another set of calibration tests. Ideally, every filament you melt will have its own profile but once they are set, you can select that profile if you purchase the same spool to melt down the line. It might take a bit of time and filament to perform the process, but it will provide the best results for the remainder of that spool and all of the matching spools to follow.
@@CovenantCustom The general consensus around the 'net is that every colour of filament from a manufacturer may behave differently (white is very different from blue for one I use, for instance). I fortunately either make functional prints where looks don't matter, or miniatures. In either case they'll be painted if I want them looking better, so I'll just find the colour of filament that's easiest to work with :)
@unspeakableoaf That's understandable! Just ends up being less filament to calibrate so you can spend more time producing prints and post-processing. I have a lot of respect for people that do prep/paint work following the printing process. If you've found a filament that melts well/provides quality results, by all means, stick with it!
@@CovenantCustom Yeah, I've decided to stick to only two colours, which allows me to bother with the extra calibration ;) (Black for functional stuff I print at butt quality, white for pretty much anything else.)
@unspeakableoaf I support that! Now it's just a matter of selecting one of the two profiles, loading a spool and you're back up and running. My filament profile list grows every month 😅
I've gone ahead to update the description to include their website! It has everything you need from the installer, the guide on how to get it running on your computer and all of the supporting data/information to cover what makes it such a great option to consider.
The starting value of .01 is added to the measured value (16mm - where it provided the best results for the filament in this test) multiplied by the step value (.001 - decreased from .002 as a personal preference). This will be based off of the values that are input at the Pressure Advance setup window. i.e. Start PA - .01, End PA - .04, Step - .001 Formula: Start PA + (measured value x step value) In this example: .01 + (16 x .001) = .026 Order of operations: Parenthesis, Exponents, Multiplication, Division, Addition, Subtraction Starting with parenthesis: (16 x .001) -> (.016) Tying in with values outside of parenthesis, the next step is addition. Simplified: .01 + .016 = .026
Please setup your audio gate or noise reductions settings properly. It’s annoying to listen to this when the words are hard to understand because of missing letters by the closing gate of hard noise reduction.
@Rubacava_ It definitely beats the alternative of being multiple hours and hundreds of grams of filament into a print before it fails. Not saying that will always be the case but I've seen more wasted filament from not calibrating then from performing this simple process before running a new material. At the end of day, it comes down to whether or not you're happy with the results you're getting and if you are, just keep it melting 😎 The calibration tests will always be there for you if you ever decide to see what their benefit is. Happy printing!
@maury818sf Trust me when I say that performing calibrations on $80-90 spools isn't something I'm particularly fond of. Especially when they only have 500g of filament on each spool. This process becomes especially important when you start working with engineering grade plastics. I'd even suggest buying a cheap $12-15 spool just to try it out. This way you can see how a little bit of filament makes the rest, go a long way. Learning the process so that it can be applied when you get to the point of melting higher grade materials. It's a great process to understand and apply if you decide to print long term.
@@maury818sf The thing is these values won't hold true anymore when you purchase another batch of the same filament. There will be variety between batches. The values will still work though as these are mostly tolerable and aims to increase quality instead of being a necessity. As a said, it is certainly not a waste if you have a print farm and/or have bunch of these from the same shipment.
@@CovenantCustomA well tuned profile will almost always work for similar type of filaments. Calibration is required to get the best quality out of the material so if you aiming that, by all means. Usually pressure advance and flow rate in ±5 range is pretty sufficent for my use case which maybe takes couple grams at most.
Best filament calibration in ORCA that I've seen on TH-cam. I like that you talk about and show what to look for on the test prints and explain why. Thank you!
@Waltkat Your input means a lot! I do my best to make instruction clear, concise and easy to follow along with.
With each process/project that I capture, my approach is simple. Asking myself, "How would I have wanted to be taught this when I needed the information most?"
It's great to hear of just how much help these videos are providing the community.
Thanks for taking the time to let me know of your experience watching them!
@@CovenantCustomI totally agree. Thank you for putting this together! I was ignoring those calibration prints because I didn’t have time to think about them and figure out what to modify.
@ It is such a worthwhile process that even when my time is limited, I dedicate part of it to confirm calibrations.
Just to be positive that the print quality will be worth it!
Always a great process to perform to achieve good looking prints.
Separating the Pass 1 and Pass 2 of the flow rate tests with the pressure advance test is obvious now that you've shared it 🤯. Time to re-run my configs.
@RocktCityTim If you've tuned and tested it with good results, I'd say to keep printing but if you are genuinely curious or if your prints aren't as precise as you are hoping for, by all means, try it out!
Awesome video and explanation! I've watched a bunch of these but this is the most clear and concise one
Many thanks! I like to cover projects/processes in a way that if I was searching, it would be the resource that was needed. I am happy to know that these videos can be a resource for the 3D printing community. Thanks for dropping in to provide your input. Happy printing!
Great job showing the cals for Orca and setting up a new filament.
@JTs3DPrints Thank you! It was my first experience with screen recording, making it a fun new element to tie into videos. I had a few people ask me to cover it, and I'm honestly surprised about just how many makers have found it helpful. Love giving back to the community and appreciate you dropping in with some feedback!
I just wanted to thank you for such great videos. I'm newer to 3D printing, and it's been overwhelming knowing where to start, but you have been amazing. Please don't stop. I will be following you for my K1 and 3D printing journey.
@brownlkt We all start somewhere and it's a process where you just keep on learning!
I cover what I'm familiar with to help those that are unfamiliar. As time progresses, my knowledge will expand and so will yours through whatever resources you find provide the greatest help!
Thanks for stopping by and showing your support. Happy to have you here!
I want to thank you for this video. I am fairly new to this hobby. Your explanation of each test was great. This will definitely improve my print quality. Again thank you!
Welcome to the 3D printing community, we are happy to have you here!
Thank you for being proactive with your research and finding this video to help guide you. Your efforts to look for the answers instead of asking the same question that is repeatedly posted will provide a wide range of support from those that have been printing for years.
Thanks for dropping in and providing your feedback, it is sincerely valued. Now go forth and print great things! Happy printing 😎👍
Well done. Thank you. Super clear voice and explanations. Even for people that are familiar, I find your work flow quite good and found myself questioning my older methods. Keep going! Cheers :)
Many thanks! I definitely have had my fair share of printer struggles (still do!) but figure that if I can help others avoid them altogether, I will continue to take on the challenge of making videos so that printing can be as enjoyable as I know it to be for the rest of the community.
I appreciate your feedback! It certainly means a lot to know that the guide is still worth a watch even after using OrcaSlicer for a period of time.
Thank you so much! I've been printing since 2018 and since last year, I was lacking knowledge on calibration under Klipper. Your video was exactly what I needed. Great content 👌
@louis-philippeyargeau2497 Happy to share what I've learned and look forward to continuing to give back to the community as it has done for me! Happy printing!
Fantastic guide. Just what I was looking for!
Tune filament, empty a spool, swap in another, repeat 😎 Happy printing!
Great job on this video. Very informative. Keep up the great work.
Hey acozad! Great to see you on here! Thanks for the kind words and I greatly appreciate the support. It's the encouragement from others that has progressed this channel to where we are today. Always thinking about the projects that lie ahead and covering them for the benefit of others. See you on the next one!
Just a little pointer for everyone, on the temp tower, the little cones are also used to test layer adhesion. Trying to snap them should help you feel which required the most effort.
You can also simplify the flow rate math. In his case, 0.926 * 1.05 = 0.9723. This way, you don't have to remember to divide by 100.
@@corneliofehr8001 I do this on occasion if I'm not confident in how well the layers are holding. Great tip! Appreciate you dropping in with that info for the community to put to use!
@corneliofehr8001 Another great piece of info! I tried to follow the guide as closely as possible to prevent confusion if compared/utilized alongside the video but that formula does the job as well!
Thank you so much im new too 3d printing and i have bought a k1c which will arive soon i watched a lot of videos but yours are really great i lesrned a lot.
Thank you
@jasperder Welcome to the 3D printing community, we're happy to have you!
I really do appreciate that, it means a lot!
As you are new to printing, all of this is relatively new to me and I'm happy that others are enjoying the material in these videos.
Thanks for dropping into the comments to share.
I've got some simple video projects coming up that may not improve your printer but will improve your printing experience. Stay tuned!
@CovenantCustom thank you 🙂. I will watch them but dont stress yoursellf your content ist greait its worth waiting on it 🙂.
@@jasperder It is a goal of mine to be able to dedicate the time necessary to share more helpful information with this close knit community!
Look forward to seeing you on the next one!
Thank you. This was excellent
Giving back to the community is what it is all about! 😎Truly happy that you thought so.
@CovenantCustom I sure did. 👍
As a new print enthusiast, just printed my leaning tower calibration with the filament that came with the printer, and thought... now what :) I loved your tutorial. Very precise and explanative.
I was wondering why dont the files you print for calibration have markers on the sides so you can read the setting versus measuring with caliphers.
Welcome to the 3D printing community, we're happy to have you here! This video should help provide some foundational knowledge to your printing process.
Thank you for the feedback, it is greatly appreciated!
In regard to the mention of markers on the calibration tests, I actually prefer that they don't!
The reason behind this is, a higher level of precision can be achieved by using calipers and a formula for that specific test.
The max volumetric test for example shows the steps but regardless of them being present, I will always try to find the best measurement when filament tuning and a set of calipers is necessary for that approach.
It is an incredibly helpful tool to have in the collection and used among a variety of printer related projects otherwise! I will be covering my go to tools in an upcoming video.
Thanks for stopping by and I look forward to seeing you on the next one! Happy printing!
I get to be your 1000th sub! yippee!!!
@VirgoSquawks Happy to have you here! Thanks for your support 😎👍
Great video. Thank you.
Always happy to help out the community. Happy printing!
Wow, great video.
Much appreciated! Happy to know that it has been helpful to so many.
Clean video, excellent work! I highly recommend you download the voron the cube goes to!
@dkgoodrich8899 Thank you! There have been many times that I've considered building a Voron. Maybe one day I'll have a 2.4 in the collection. If they want to sponsor a build 😅
My next project (which I've already got everything sourced for) will be a K1MaxVZ.
AWD, Triple Z, linear rails on X & Y w/ 1515 and 2020 extrusions, printed double sheer motor mounts/XY joints/front tensioners, VZ toolhead/carriage, Goliath hotend, LGX lite v2 extruder, CPAP parts cooling, M8P w/ CM4 using TMC2209 & 5160T Pro drivers, BTT TFT43 display, upgraded power supply, side frame I-beams and printed bracing, 6mm bed with 750W heater, a handful of fans/miscellaneous electronics like SSR's pigtails/wiring and potentially a few more items that haven't made the list. It will be a fun one!
@ once mine was ironed out @ 42v, printing in the 550-700mmsec range, traveling at 80k - it’s the most rewarding thing I’ve done in a long time.
Someone as intelligent as you, would make the most of a custom build
@@dkgoodrich8899 Impressive work! Those are results that any 3D printing enthusiast would be happy with.
If I did go the DIY route (not like the K1MaxVZ doesn't meet that criteria with all that will be replaced/upgraded), I'd go for a vcore4.
My expectations for the K1MaxVZ would be 800mm/s3 at around 30k accel for quality output which will exceed all other printers that I've owned to date. We shall see!
Thanks a lot!
Happy printing! 😎👍
Hell yeah ima do this with all my filaments.
@kb1Legendflaco It changed the game when I first learned about tuning filament years ago (when you would manually change gcode files).
With the files automatically altered dependent on the values you set, it removes the guesswork and reduces the time it takes to tune. Brilliant stuff!
Great Video!
Just out of curiosity, how much total filament do you think was used on calibration?
Appreciate your feedback!
The filament tuning process requires about 100g of filament, providing 900g of a properly tuned material for the first spool you run through.
If you end up purchasing the same filament again (matching manufacturer/material/color), it is highly likely that you'll be able to utilize the full spool without any additional calibrations by selecting that filament profile. There is a possibility that it may require minor tweaks as the properties could change minimally from batch to batch but that typically requires 50g or less. I very rarely run into that but there is still potential for it to happen.
Should you scale the tests down so you can print faster and use less filament or keep the default scale?
@TheGlitterMan I'd suggest keeping the default scale just due to the values and operations that are being tested. It is a worthwhile use of filament and yields considerable returns on the 100g that is utilized.
@@CovenantCustom When I'm using Creality Print 6 the flow test didn't fit my V3SE so I have to click yes to fit the print bed. I'm still trying to figure out the right setting for Inland PLA+ WHITE that I got from MicroCenter.
@TheGlitterMan I can confirm that with the same build volume on the Creality K1 used in this video, no adjustments are required through Orcaslicer. Some filaments can be tricky to work with but knowing what to look for so that an expected value is an accurate choice was my biggest hang up when I was performing calibrations years back. Just takes a little bit of time to get the hang of is all! Happy printing!
@@CovenantCustom Hopefully I can somewhat Lessen stringing during my print. Any recommend when printing a small cylinder around 9mm?
@TheGlitterMan Make sure the filament has been properly dried and that it remains dehydrated during the print. Make sure that you arent melting the filament too hot; good rule of thumb is to stay within the range that the manufacturer suggests. Pay close attention to the retraction settings test to help eliminate stringing.
If you switch to a different nozzle size ie 0.4mm to 0.6mm, would you do another calibration test?
@jonathonodonnell253 Yes definitely! Changing nozzle sizes will require their own profile. Due to the increase of the internal diameter from 0.4mm to 0.6mm, it will require revisiting the calibration process altogether.
@@CovenantCustomsince orca has changed somethings I’ve been doing the same with all my filaments. Also redoing the cal if I changed nozzle diameter. The only other thing I do is a Califlower to measure shrinkage. Most of the stuff I print has to fit with other real world items.
@jonathonodonnell253 All necessary steps to take in order to achieve dimensionally accurate prints! You've definitely got the right idea for keeping everything in spec.
Super insightful, how much filament did it use for all calibration in total? Seems like a lot, but I'm sure it's more for print farm reliability rather than single use/color spools.
@Longfu2000 For all of the tests combined, it used 93g. Well worth it if it means that the rest of the spool will provide successful prints with improved quality!
Since you calibrated ASA, which I’m also trying to calibrate, did you preheat the chamber before each print and let each print cool down before removing? I always do that when I’m actually printing with ASA, so it seems only natural to do the same thing with the calibrating. The only problem is it takes a long time to perform each calibration step. No one ever talks about it in their calibration videos, but ASA can but very finicky as I’m sure you know. Hopefully you can answer!
@Sugarkryptonite I start the calibration process by heat soaking the chamber. Once it arrives at 30-35C, I begin printing.
Once a calibration print is complete, I'll pull the build tray immediately following and remove the print.
The chamber will hold temperature for the entirety of the process, maintaining temp as more calibration prints are sent and completed.
Never have any issues with ABS/ASA which is why it is my primary material for most prints!
@@CovenantCustom Thanks for the response. So when you pull the build tray immediately, you swap in another plate?
@Sugarkryptonite Although that is an option, I simply flex the plate (running PEI textured at 100C) and the prints release after a couple of minutes.
@CovenantCustom Hmm okay, thanks. I found on my bigger prints with ASA if I took the plate out of the heat right after printing, warping or cracking could occur. I guess for calibration it's not so bad, though.
Also curious about the volumetric max flow rate test and best layer adhesion. I've found that even if the layer lines are nice up to a certain speed, layer adhesion takes a real hit. How do you take that into account? I'm struggling with it myself. I mostly just tried to crack the layers from the volumetric flow rate test by hand at different points to see where they were stronger, but it's not scientific. I saw you measured to the point with your calipers where the layers still looked good, but I think that layer adhesion is poor at those higher levels. In my experience with ASA, anyway.
I've found I can only print at 10-13mm3/s with ASA to get good adhesion, so when I saw you put 35, I was intrigued.
@Sugarkryptonite With calibration prints, there is no need to let each plate cool. If we were looking for dimensional accuracy, then I would say that measuring the print after cooling down would be a requirement, but that concern does not apply for these tests.
I do swap plates on larger prints not out of concern for any warping but due to the fact that removing a part from a PEI plate too soon could result in a cosmetic imperfection as it transfers that coating to the print itself.
In the temp tower, you can check the quality of layer adhesion by breaking the spires with something like an allen key. The greater the resistance it has, the better the layer adhesion will be.
Amazing video, really helpful. I did notice you saved the filament profile with the calibration settings still overriding the cooling settings or was this on purpose?
Many thanks and fantastic observation!
Since I consider cooling a follow up to filament calibration, I isolated those values after this sequence of prints.
With my focus solely being on the built-in calibration tests, I did not want to create confusion by deviating from the tests provided in the drop-down menu.
what are your fans running at ? is there a guide for tuniong these also ? i mean should we start from 0 or chose a setpoint to work from ?
My personal method is to print an overhang test with varying degrees. I'll print multiple, one at a time, (so that I have a control, knowing that cooling from prints alongside aren't exposing others with their ramped-up fan speed values - this might be overkill but it reduces false positives) with varying fan percentages.
i.e. One print at 0%, another at 25%, 50%, 75% and 100%. You can also run the same prints at 0%, 20%, 40%, 60%, 80% and 100% or whatever your preference is. Once you find a good result, you can also fine tune it by running it +/- 5-10% to see if their are any substantial improvements.
Inspect the underside and see which fan value produced the best results. Set that value to your minimum layer time of somewhere in the 20-35s range. For max layer time I'm usually within 80-100% for 1-3s to ensure that small overhangs/bridging have sufficient cooling so that all additional layers have a sufficient base to build off of.
6:46 soooo the raised edges according you will be the flowrate? after pass 2 you diden´t redo it so I surpose thats the case. I do struggle with this on my Elegoo Neptune 4 pro, and thought its PA sence its the outer paramiter.
@robertagnarp7502 The raised edges are caused by the flow rate being too high.
It essentially causes the nozzle to drive itself through the filament during its tool path and as a result, it pushes the extruded filament out to the side (which creates the rough edge).
I perform PA after flow rate pass 1 to make sure that rounded corners can not be a result of pressure advance when dialing in the flow rate for pass 2.
I approach it in this sequence so that corners that seem "rounded out" are tuned with PA and can be an indicator that the flow rate is too high as it deposits more filament than what is necessary.
PA is carried out prior to flow rate pass 2, to isolate focus on the 4 corners and not the edges of the print itself.
If you are experiencing rough edges, that is indicative of the flow rate being too high.
@@CovenantCustom Thanks for the answer, appriciate it!
But as a follow up question, can that cause the edges to buldge too? i thought PA is the enemy of this, in my case i got edges that is buldge, (have done pattern and tower yet same problem) also done shit ton flow rate, the middle is awesome but edges like yours is present. But maybe i should try doing it in that order, Pass 1 then PA then Pass 2. maybe it changes something.
@robertagnarp7502 If you are experiencing bulging that causes inconsistent layer lines and in turn, less than ideal surface quality that would be related to flow rate over PA.
PA is responsible for the change in extrusion rate during accel/decel movements, i.e. corners, hard angles.
@@CovenantCustom Thing is, i tested this now with 4 test. one with current flowrate, down to 0.5 flowrate just to see if it will change. The rise of the edges is still present no matter what. i try to lower also other flowrates i could find but it seem that i never seem to find the core issue.
@robertagnarp7502 Does filament ooze from the nozzle when it gets up to temp prior to printing? That could be an indicator of the material is wet and in that case it will deposit more than intended.
It may be worth running the temp tower again to make sure that you are not melting too hot.
I tried out the burnt nebula asa a while back and it was one of the worst filaments i have ever worked with. I dunno if it was a bad batch or what but it absorbed moisture like crazy. I dried it for over 24 hours and the layer adhesion was garbage. This what after multiple tuning sessions, after all that i just threw it away
@josephpitt3873 I had the same experience with it absorbing moisture as you can see.
A lot of companies blend ASA with another material like PETG to mitigate this, so seeing how hygroscopic it was actually ended up being a good sign in my eyes.
I ended up receiving the best results after approximately 72 hours at 70C, and every print turned out great. If you are trying to dry this filament at 50C or less, it will be difficult to achieve the same results.
Another reason that I chose this filament is due to its pearlescent makeup.
Between these two hurdles, it helped show just how important drying and filament tuning can be with some materials.
With that said, It is definitely my go to pick for an ASA in this gradient from here on out.
hello you use 0.01 for the initial value in your pressure advance calculation. my question i in my klipper vanilla in printer .cfg it set to 0.04 does this meen that my initial value is 0.04 and not 0.01 ?
In theory, the value that you set it to in the calibration as well as the filament profile should effectively change the value for that filament. I can confirm this as my filament profiles, differ from my cfg values and it still produces the desired results with the appropriate value set in the slicer.
Good info thanks.
@odeball22 Shared knowledge is the best knowledge. Happy to do it!
Have you heard about the SB53 G-Code Flow and Temperature Controller script? (For OrcaSlicer)
This would definitely be the first! Checked out your video and can appreciate the time and dedication that you invested in that project. Great work!
Take a look, it's worth it; best overhangs, surface shining, bridges, strength, ...more
Have a good time and Happy Smart 3D printing :)
Should all the colours of the same material and the same brand use the same profile? I have read that black and white might need their own but most colours can use the same profile.
I would personally tune each and every filament that is being run through the printer for the first time.
Although some profiles may be close, the formula that each company uses may differ from not only other manufacturers but even from batch to batch.
I dedicate a profile to each filament and name it by manufacturer, material, color (and can even go as far as noting the machine it was tuned on and the nozzle size).
You can take an existing profile and try it on another filament if you are in a pinch which might work or get you close, requiring small adjustments.
To rule out any unusual behavior while printing, I prefer calibrating the filament before I begin sending prints.
@@CovenantCustom Thanks
Do you know where to get the files?
@davids8458 If you access the Calibration drop down on the top left of the page, you can access all of the tests shown. They will automatically set your input values to produce the necessary changes through the process of each test. Happy printing!
Can you add a side by side of the test cubes at the end?
@1SGBob1 Unfortunately test prints don't last long around these parts. It won't be the last that you see of this filament and the profile that was created for it though.
This might already be in the comments here somewhere but whats the best way to calibrate retraction speed in orca?
@billythorne3273 First question regarding it!
35mm/s is typically a good starting point for both direct drive and bowden set ups.
I would start there and then proceed to check out Ellis' Print Guide for additional adjustments if required.
Perfect, thank you for the quick reply, just running my vfa now and then I'll look into the retraction speed settings, upgraded my ender 3 V2 to a DD sprite extruder and not got the retraction speeds down as of yet
@@billythorne3273 You'll get them dialed in no time 😎Nice work on the DD swap!
Question - after the VFA test you mention @ 11:12 that you set your outer wall speed to match the speed from the test that looks the best, with the inner walls being run a bit higher. But where do you enter those values? I'm assuming you entered them into a profile speed section (rather than part of the filament settings)?
You've got it! That would be the only setting that falls outside of the actual filament profile where you've placed all other values.
Why don't they put it in the filament profile?
@Nuttavoot The VFA test is performed to find the ideal print speeds. This falls outside of filament settings and is changed under the "Speed" settings.
You can set the appropriate speeds in the "Notes" section of the filament settings page to quickly alter them when switching between filaments for easier recall.
Very nice. It would be helpful to have the math part to have labels (X Y Z) for easier instructions but besides that this helped a LOT
@DerekX100 Appreciate your feedback! It helps provide me with the input I need to improve. I am happy that this guide served you well. Enjoy your newly tuned profile and all those to follow!
@@CovenantCustom If you can add the equations for the calculations in the description or a link to a easy to read note would be amazing. Thank you again for the video
@@DerekX100 Updated with formulas, inspections and a link directly to the calibration guide 😎
This guide can also be found by selecting "Tutorial" in the Calibration drop down for easy access through OrcaSlicer direct.
@@CovenantCustom Perfect. I tried to use the Orca tutorial but was overwhelmed. The Video helped me out much more. Thank you again
@@CovenantCustom Hey its me again. My Neptune 3 uses a Bowden Extruder and i wasn't able to find anything about the setting on the tutorial link. Do you have any advice for the PA calibration?
Your opinion, is filament consistent across the brand or do you need to test each filament that you get? Example for PLA I generally use VoxelPLA . Should you run those tests on each batch you buy, for each color or just run at once for all filament from that brand?
Hey! Some filaments work well with other profiles (I've definitely run a print without changing the profile before and results haven't been terrible). By tuning each filament, it eliminates any guesswork on what profile you'd need to choose if it is specifically honed for that individual manufacturer/material/color.
You may find that the values even come close after calibrating, but knowing that your tuned filament will perform as well as others ideally means that you'll calibrate a profile for each.
did this help with dimensional accuracy? i am so tired of working with iteration when i am trying to get accurate dimensions , and i dont know what type of calibration i need to do
So long as the equipment is dialed in (hardware secured, belts tensioned, axes are clean and properly lubricated without resistance, etc.), it most definitely will.
By tuning the filament, you are able to achieve the best performance output from that material to reduce the remaining variable to slicer settings (printer and filament profile addressed).
I would run through all of these calibrations if you are experiencing issues and your hardware (printer), has been checked through to make sure there are no mechanical issues that are causing dimensional inaccuracy to occur otherwise.
There is also a tolerance test that can be found in the Calibration drop down, to confirm that all adjustments made during the tuning process provide favorable results.
@@CovenantCustom thank you so much man , your a life saver ❤
@@eclipsehorizon7655 Returning the favor to a community that has provided the same assistance to me in the past. Happy to help!
Great video! Quick question on your K1, what mods/upgrades provided the most significant improvement for you? (VFAs, extrusion etc.) I did the devil designs xy fatbpy joints and tool head cover but I wonder if I should change or add more to it like ldo motors, linear rails and so on.
The major benefits of the linear rail gantry that improve print quality/reduce VFA would be the 20T motor pulleys, the higher quality stepper motors, the flanged bearings, the 16T idler pulleys, upgrading the LM8LUU bearings even though they aren't listed in the BOM or included in the kit (Fushi black chrome is your best bet) and of course the linear rail itself. All of the components come together and through their combined efforts provide better output. I ran the kit for 5 months before moving forward with the install on my other machine. I truly believe that it is one of the best ways to reduce VFA beyond the removal of the springs in the printhead and whatever other methods I tried prior to installing my first kit.
Beyond print quality, input shaping also improved which allows me to run the printer at higher acceleration values without risking a drop in print quality. Considering I melt ABS/ASA as my baseline filament, if I can achieve better quality prints in less time than what the printer provides in stock configuration, I'm all for it. Definitely look into it and see if it is an upgrade that you are comfortable completing and if the proven results match what you are looking to receive out of your own machine.
Although I no longer have two of the same machines to provide comparative results to, I can cover the difference in print quality between my upgraded K1 and factory K1 Max so that people can see the difference, side by side. If that is something you are interested in, let me know as I have both of them tuned to provide the best quality output for their configuration. It isn't an exact match as the deviation between the K1 and K1 Max is clearly evident, but it is as close as I can get to a comparison as they are still within the same family. I support whatever choice you make. Hope that helps answer your question!
Can you provide us with a link of all the parts or there’s a full kit? Thxs
After your max flow rate test before saving your filament you should have reverted it as the max flow rate test affects your filament cooling as well and you probably saved something you didn't want.
@chris993361 Cooling was addressed in its own tuning process following.
Since it isn't a process within the filament calibration sequence, this was not covered.
This guide purely serves to detail the isolated focus on the various tests of filament calibration and what can be achieved through them.
Despite the built-in calibration being a great foundation for the values corresponding with each test, it is important to address cooling separately for the best results on bridging and overhangs.
@CovenantCustom Yeah. I follow with cooling stuff as well though I don't have a good set procedure for it. Usually it involves printing out a bunch of overhang tests and changing settings randomly until I'm happy with the result lol.
@@CovenantCustomI should also note that I went into this not expecting to learn anything new but I think I like your strategy of doing pressure advance in between the two flow tests. Thanks for the tip.
@@CovenantCustom not trying to be annoying but I just remembered something else I wanted to mention as well. The new yolo flow rate test doesn't require you to do math. It puts in flow calculations for the objects based on your current flow rate so that you can just directly minus or add the number shown.
@chris993361 I appreciate that feedback. It might be a personal preference, but I'm happy to hear that it provided value for someone who is already familiar with the process.
Thanks for this informative video.
The slicer changes the 'Max fan speed threshold - layer time' to 1 when doing the PA test and then changes it to 0 when doing Maxflow rate and VFA.
Should you be saving these values? I thought 'no' since you don't keep the nozzle temp that was changed for the temp test but I noticed you did at 10:00. Then do you save the last one? 0?
@@billionsean.k I perform a separate calibration for cooling altogether following filament tuning. I wouldn't rely on preset values that are produced for the tests alone as they have such an isolated focus.
Never would of thought you would get VFA''s at low speeds on a high speed Printer-
That alone was worth watching your Video -/.
These K1's clearly do not like printing slow. On the other hand, in stock configuration they can display similar results in the upper range. Those have been almost entirely addressed with upgrades performed on my machines but it would've been nice to have it produce similar results while stock. Can't say that I didn't enjoy the process though 😅
Dumb question. Do you do these calibration tests for each individual filament color? I am new to orca slice and hueforge both. Thank you for the video.
Every time I run a filament I've never melted before, I will make a new profile specific to that filament (i.e. I've melted a black ABS from one manufacturer but will rerun calibration if I pick up black ABS from another manufacturer).
In the same regard, even if it is the same manufacturer and material type but it is a different color (i.e. Polymaker Metallic Blue ABS and Polymaker Metallic Green ABS), I will run another set of calibration tests.
Ideally, every filament you melt will have its own profile but once they are set, you can select that profile if you purchase the same spool to melt down the line.
It might take a bit of time and filament to perform the process, but it will provide the best results for the remainder of that spool and all of the matching spools to follow.
@@CovenantCustom The general consensus around the 'net is that every colour of filament from a manufacturer may behave differently (white is very different from blue for one I use, for instance). I fortunately either make functional prints where looks don't matter, or miniatures. In either case they'll be painted if I want them looking better, so I'll just find the colour of filament that's easiest to work with :)
@unspeakableoaf That's understandable! Just ends up being less filament to calibrate so you can spend more time producing prints and post-processing.
I have a lot of respect for people that do prep/paint work following the printing process.
If you've found a filament that melts well/provides quality results, by all means, stick with it!
@@CovenantCustom Yeah, I've decided to stick to only two colours, which allows me to bother with the extra calibration ;)
(Black for functional stuff I print at butt quality, white for pretty much anything else.)
@unspeakableoaf I support that! Now it's just a matter of selecting one of the two profiles, loading a spool and you're back up and running.
My filament profile list grows every month 😅
Why does my orca look different
@Glockziller It could be the version of Orca that you have
Is it hard to get this slicer
I've gone ahead to update the description to include their website! It has everything you need from the installer, the guide on how to get it running on your computer and all of the supporting data/information to cover what makes it such a great option to consider.
6:06 0.01+(16x0.001) = 0.026 ???????????????????? what
The starting value of .01 is added to the measured value (16mm - where it provided the best results for the filament in this test) multiplied by the step value (.001 - decreased from .002 as a personal preference).
This will be based off of the values that are input at the Pressure Advance setup window. i.e. Start PA - .01, End PA - .04, Step - .001
Formula: Start PA + (measured value x step value)
In this example: .01 + (16 x .001) = .026
Order of operations: Parenthesis, Exponents, Multiplication, Division, Addition, Subtraction
Starting with parenthesis: (16 x .001) -> (.016)
Tying in with values outside of parenthesis, the next step is addition.
Simplified: .01 + .016 = .026
Please setup your audio gate or noise reductions settings properly. It’s annoying to listen to this when the words are hard to understand because of missing letters by the closing gate of hard noise reduction.
@@robertwagner605 Will be something I look into for future videos. Thanks for the input!
Too much filament wasted just for calibration. Doesn't make sense much to me if you only have around a kg of that spool
Do you plan to stop printing when it runs out? Are you not going to buy more?
@Rubacava_ It definitely beats the alternative of being multiple hours and hundreds of grams of filament into a print before it fails.
Not saying that will always be the case but I've seen more wasted filament from not calibrating then from performing this simple process before running a new material.
At the end of day, it comes down to whether or not you're happy with the results you're getting and if you are, just keep it melting 😎 The calibration tests will always be there for you if you ever decide to see what their benefit is.
Happy printing!
@maury818sf Trust me when I say that performing calibrations on $80-90 spools isn't something I'm particularly fond of. Especially when they only have 500g of filament on each spool.
This process becomes especially important when you start working with engineering grade plastics.
I'd even suggest buying a cheap $12-15 spool just to try it out. This way you can see how a little bit of filament makes the rest, go a long way. Learning the process so that it can be applied when you get to the point of melting higher grade materials.
It's a great process to understand and apply if you decide to print long term.
@@maury818sf The thing is these values won't hold true anymore when you purchase another batch of the same filament. There will be variety between batches. The values will still work though as these are mostly tolerable and aims to increase quality instead of being a necessity. As a said, it is certainly not a waste if you have a print farm and/or have bunch of these from the same shipment.
@@CovenantCustomA well tuned profile will almost always work for similar type of filaments. Calibration is required to get the best quality out of the material so if you aiming that, by all means. Usually pressure advance and flow rate in ±5 range is pretty sufficent for my use case which maybe takes couple grams at most.