Design for the purge bin starts at 10:40 if you're not interested in the other stuff. If you print one for yourself, the default .2mm profile with tree supports works fine.
Thank you for the great design on the catcher. This was the first thing I printed on my Qidi Plus 4 after the unboxing. I did it with a .1mm layer height and the print took 9 hours, 3 minutes, but came out like it was injection molded, only with no parting line. I have absolutely zero 3d printing experience, so the fact that this first effort turned out so well is nothing short of miraculous in my opinion. Both the design of the catcher and the printer itself are excellent. My printer arrived with the side heater "fix" and worked just fine out-of-the box. I haven't experienced any heater issues. I'll send a photo of the completed catcher.
Hi, thanks for this video, I will received my 4 + in few days (I hope) but I still start to watch tip and tric on it. The expuls of this bullet of filament is nice to know. I will create one also because acces to the back will be not easy in my small house😊. Have a nice day Bob
Excellent video as always. Nobody can doubt your thoroughness. I enjoy the comedy aspect as well. You're channel has become my favourite and it's a pity having to wait every week.
I just did a very large owl print on my Plus4 and it's nearly flawless. Essentially zero VFA to speak of, layer stacking is excellent, overhangs are solid. Just really no complaints. So far mine has been problem free and my precision and quality remain excellent.
For the issue at the beginning of the video, try changing wall order to outer then inner. Excellent video, especially since I'm considering the Plus 4 for ASA and nylon.
I have the FixDry machine and found similar. It came out before the S4 and has a 24hr cycle time, which is nice and not the norm for these cheap dryers. The sensors for temp & humidity are set too low (behind the panel), so I drilled a hole halfway up the cover and fitted a combined sensor from Amazon. Need to add about 12Deg to the set temp and it takes a couple of hours, but does get there. I'm finding can achieve RH down to ~22% actual. The proper humidistat on the S4 controller looks far more useful - that's a very nice feature. Great ad-hoc dryer review!!
Increasing the # of walls will remove that "creasing in" issue and you can still use gyroid in-fill. This works very well with PETG, ASA. I haven't tried it with PLA tho.
Love the idea of a channel dedicated to functional prints - I hope you can resist the temptation of becoming a review shill like many of these other channels have turned into. Speaking of which - in regards to the Qidi 4, great functional print would be a fire extinguisher mount. Careful with this printer folks - if you are on 110 power it's a fire hazard.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I’m printing with it today on my Plus 4. Used the default PETG setting and upped the flow to 20mms and looking very nice so far.
I have that same fixdry. Works for me. I just leave it at 50C (never verified it with a thermometer or anything) and loaded it up with dessicant. When I got it, I was more interested in the drying aspect vs the filament pre-heat. I was running a Snapmaker at the time, and printing with mostly PLA, I was having problems with moisture. I still use it with a pair of X-Max3 printers, but with their chamber heating and built-in drying and all that, I don't think it's even necessary.
I plugged the holes in my fixdry filament dryer except for where the filament comes out and it works much better. You are right I was disappointed with mine.
I got the Sunlu S4 a while ago. Drastically improved my prints with hygroscopic filaments. I still haven’t printed from it though, it sits on the floor below my printer so I haven’t run the PTFE tubes lol… I just printed out some ABS heat deflectors for the bottom of the dryer since it can blast the bottom of the spools with +10-15° C higher heat than the set temp, according to some other TH-camrs’ content.
I got the sunlu 4 a couple of months ago, and I mainly use it to store/dry my tpu/PC filaments. I didn’t know about the issue about the heat blasting on the bottom of the spools. Hopefully Mr FPF will investigate and come up with one of his ingenious design fixes. I have the heater below my X1C and when I print my tpu from it, I’m just a caveman and drag the filament out of it and feed it into my two way filament adapter on my X1C, since I find that more convenient than swapping the filaments around in the Sunlu and threading it through the tubes…plus I didn’t want to go through the hassle of measuring and cutting up the tube to fit on the adapter and making sure it works properly😂
Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but something I do when designing things that have 'fitment' requirements, I always print a cropped verson of just the fitment part(s) to make sure they're good. So, I would have printed just a single 'nub' before running the entire part off.
Thank you for the video as I used it to get my Plus 4 up and running. Now I would like to ask you how I would go about using your STL for the Poop scute, I have the flash drive that came with my Plus 4 do I need to hook up my Plus 4 to my internet to download the file or would you suggest that I download the file from my computer to the flash drive. I received my Plus 4 on 10-01-24 and was afraid to open it and start it up especially with all of the fire problems and heater problems, but after I watched your video, I felt confident that I could get it running. Thank you!
Just don't use the heated chamber until you get their replacement part in and you'll fine. I would download onto your computer and open in qidi studio, also on your computer, and send to plus 4 over the wifis. Otherwise, yeh, you can just put it on a thumbdrive.
Glad to see you are getting some new prints done on your new 4Plus. What slicer are you using when doing the print where you show corner pushed in a bit? I had a similar issue on corner showing on my Q1 few weeks back, found out that table I was using had a wobble that hit hard every time table came down only on the right side, moving printer to sturdier desk fixed my issue, but yours does not have the same looks as my corner issue when it reared it's head. You may try to mess with wall order or wall thickness or look for wall thickness options, classic vs Arachne maybe? Perhaps if using infill in that location look at changing percentage overlap or type of infill you are using. Thanks for the purge bin, will send it to my Plus4 and see how it works out. On way in to work in a few minutes, will sit down a bit later and take time to look at video fully. I still have not done anything with the 4 Plus besides a simple auto level and input shaping routine. I must be breaking the 200 hr barrier with heated chamber running on 95% of the prints been doing in ABS. I have been burning through filament at an extremely crazy rate this past two weeks! I am running my Q1 and 4Plus at the same time when out in Eastern Mass during my work weeks and when back home in Western Mass on days off my little Xsmart3 runs 24/7 doing ABS flawlessly and that unit does not have heated chamber, it is a true workhorse also. I run bed temps on ABS anywhere from 90C up to high of around 103C with nozzle temps at average of 275C to 277C using the QIDI Rapido or odorless ABS, great filament. If I use the QIDI or Siraya GF based ABS I slow the machine down to around average speed of 160-180mm/sec max for inner wall speed and bit less for outer walls. I run the speeds quite a bit higher when doing regular ABS Rapido anywhere between 220 to 280mm/s with that product without issue on quality. I do run a nice slow speed on all first layers, 50mm/s to ensure a perfect starting layer. I do hope to have some extra time to fine tune my bed level and flow settings, although my prints do not really show the need for the stuff I have been printing, but sure it will help and I am curious how things are looking on this machine, have owned now a bit longer than 4 weeks. I do light lubrication and cleaning once every two days of use, which is about 28hrs of run time. I managed to order up only the .6mm bi metal replacement nozzles, wanting to get my hands on some of their .4mm but they were not showing available in stock yet. I did grab spare silicone pads, boots, and blades at a great price through QIDI along with at least a dozen rolls or more of their ABS along with few more rolls of their ABSGF25 and a few rolls of their PET CF, incredible stuff! I print PET CF at temps average around 310-315C with my 4Plus and believe bed temps were 80C to 90C, perhaps a wee bit higher, used whatever box recommended for bed temp. I printed the PET CF after a solid 12hrs+ in my Polymaker dryer system, was very impressed with this material and the price is right on it when bought in bulk. I bought the Polymaker drying system with three extra boxes a few weeks back after receiving my 4 Plus, love that system, although I do plan on getting a large food dehydrator in the future. I do print lots of engineering grade plastics, love them, but past few week plus been on a pure ABS kick, much easier on my wallet with the amount of prints I am churning out. I am also awaiting the .4mm bimetal nozzles to get in stock, I only have two .6mm nozzles arriving any day as a backup at the moment. I do not like to run machine with all the filler based products without ensuring I have some extra nozzles laying around just in case, clogs can happen, but I think I have had only about three clogs in the past year when running all of my QIDI Machines, a very solid track record. I just know that clogs will happen at the most inconvenient time and like to be prepared to handle them, ensuring stock on nozzles. Nice Purge Bin, printed out beautifully on my Plus4, looks to be solid design! Let is auto choose tree organic support only off the plate. Small tree showed up on the back side to support two spots! Thank you
HAH! This is awesome. Printing it now. Love how you talked to your twin. I wish I could design objects like you just did. This is great. Just to be clear.. maybe my QidiSlicer settings are wrong (not a fan.. prefer ORca but apparently that doesnt work over wifi with the Plus 4.. though I may use it to export gcode and then use Fluid to upload from my machine). Anyway.. its going to take 12 hours to print with PLA, .4mm nozzle. Is that right?
Dear FPF, Great channel, I don't like and can't see the point of printing mythical figures or masks etc. Please may you continue with useful and functional designs. Thanks so much for your video, your Poop Bucket was one of the first things that I printed with my new Qidi Plus 4, it's great, Qidi should put it on their USB stick that comes with the printer! Cheers, Eve
I'll likely do a quick vid with my printer recommendations for the upcoming holiday. I think the avg viewer of the channel is probably tired of hearing about this printer already, but not sure :)
not sure what you mean. the rectangular size of the exit of the chute? FYI, this one is working well so far. I've been printing almost continuously and none have "missed" the bin yet
yeh, for North American machines the duty cycle was set way too high. It was supposed to be 400w for the chamber and it was actually ~550w. They fixed it in firmware, and it's ~360w now, which seems like a good safety margin. I measured these myself using a current clamp on a scope, and these are the actual RMS current values.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday good it's some workaround is working! but for my opinion it's still undersized with not enough safety margin. As for my opinion a SSR PCB must be fails save in any way.
@@berlinberlin4246 a bigger margin would be nice, but it's just not something we typically see in consumer level electronics, where the components often get run at 80% of max. If mine runs at or near the 400w on the sticker with the new settings I'm satisfied. The real question is what damage did the stock part take running at way over it's rating before they fixed it. I'd like to see QIDI replace them on any units that shipped before the firmware update.
One thing I don't understand... If you have produce highly hydroscopic filaments, WHY would you put them on cardboard spools??! Cardboard vacuums up water like a sponge. It seems like that's just asking for trouble.
That electrical tape is going to be a gooey mess under normal conditions over time. You're putting it in a hot environment that will make it worse. Gaffer tape might be a better choice or just mask it off and put some paint on it.
I only use the Scotch 33/35 stuff and it's never gone gooey on me yet. I used to use whatever the cheapest stuff was years ago. .the Scotch is worth it's weight in gold
Perhaps you'll be right here, but I would be inclined to go grab a cheap bottle of nail polish from the drug store and paint it. Or perhaps print a small chip out of ABS
Mod 2 lol. Both of mine work great. I bought one of the newer Ebios dryers that has the spool rotation and allows 3kg spools. The cheap af fan they used has a micro thin plastic shroud, and if you run it over 50°c the fan shroud melts into the fan blades and makes a terrible noise. i cut a piece of 4mm thick carbon fiber plate on my cnc and replaced the side that melts. Ran it and after a week, the bottom part that holds the blades of the fan melted and warped upward into the carbon fiber top i made. It works great, but the fan size they use is proprietary and I had to made a jig to use a 5015 blower. I wish these companies would stop cutting f🤬king corners on the dumbest bs. But I love my s4's
Design for the purge bin starts at 10:40 if you're not interested in the other stuff. If you print one for yourself, the default .2mm profile with tree supports works fine.
Thank you for the great design on the catcher. This was the first thing I printed on my Qidi Plus 4 after the unboxing. I did it with a .1mm layer height and the print took 9 hours, 3 minutes, but came out like it was injection molded, only with no parting line. I have absolutely zero 3d printing experience, so the fact that this first effort turned out so well is nothing short of miraculous in my opinion. Both the design of the catcher and the printer itself are excellent. My printer arrived with the side heater "fix" and worked just fine out-of-the box. I haven't experienced any heater issues. I'll send a photo of the completed catcher.
Well, you did it How? I too have no experience and don't know where or how to start, can you lend me a hand ?
Awesome design.
Even for someone who has been doing this for many years, your videos are an absolute joy to watch. :)
Thx, means a lot
"did you measure that?....yes, I took a picture and eyeballed it" 😂
Hi, thanks for this video, I will received my 4 + in few days (I hope) but I still start to watch tip and tric on it.
The expuls of this bullet of filament is nice to know.
I will create one also because acces to the back will be not easy in my small house😊.
Have a nice day
Bob
Excellent video as always. Nobody can doubt your thoroughness. I enjoy the comedy aspect as well. You're channel has become my favourite and it's a pity having to wait every week.
thx!
i like what you do on this channel. Love to see the iteration process. Appreciate the little comic bits too.
thx
I just did a very large owl print on my Plus4 and it's nearly flawless. Essentially zero VFA to speak of, layer stacking is excellent, overhangs are solid. Just really no complaints. So far mine has been problem free and my precision and quality remain excellent.
Got this printer at my office this week. This was the first thing I printed in it
For the issue at the beginning of the video, try changing wall order to outer then inner.
Excellent video, especially since I'm considering the Plus 4 for ASA and nylon.
I have the FixDry machine and found similar. It came out before the S4 and has a 24hr cycle time, which is nice and not the norm for these cheap dryers. The sensors for temp & humidity are set too low (behind the panel), so I drilled a hole halfway up the cover and fitted a combined sensor from Amazon. Need to add about 12Deg to the set temp and it takes a couple of hours, but does get there. I'm finding can achieve RH down to ~22% actual. The proper humidistat on the S4 controller looks far more useful - that's a very nice feature. Great ad-hoc dryer review!!
Thanks, printed it from ABS, came out nice and seems to fit 😊
That does look better then the 2 pieces magnetic design that I made and stripped one of the chute screws and had to use a longer one installing.
Great project I've been wanting to make a catcher for mine I just got Monday I'm very happy with it great printer ❤❤❤
Increasing the # of walls will remove that "creasing in" issue and you can still use gyroid in-fill. This works very well with PETG, ASA. I haven't tried it with PLA tho.
Love the idea of a channel dedicated to functional prints - I hope you can resist the temptation of becoming a review shill like many of these other channels have turned into. Speaking of which - in regards to the Qidi 4, great functional print would be a fire extinguisher mount. Careful with this printer folks - if you are on 110 power it's a fire hazard.
If you haven’t yet give the new Bambu HF Petg a try. It’s has a nicer matte type finish. Print really nice too.
Agreed, i’ve used it. Been meaning to test how it really performs after printing in comparison to std petg
@@FunctionalPrintFriday I’m printing with it today on my Plus 4. Used the default PETG setting and upped the flow to 20mms and looking very nice so far.
I have that same fixdry. Works for me. I just leave it at 50C (never verified it with a thermometer or anything) and loaded it up with dessicant.
When I got it, I was more interested in the drying aspect vs the filament pre-heat. I was running a Snapmaker at the time, and printing with mostly PLA, I was having problems with moisture.
I still use it with a pair of X-Max3 printers, but with their chamber heating and built-in drying and all that, I don't think it's even necessary.
I plugged the holes in my fixdry filament dryer except for where the filament comes out and it works much better. You are right I was disappointed with mine.
I got the Sunlu S4 a while ago. Drastically improved my prints with hygroscopic filaments. I still haven’t printed from it though, it sits on the floor below my printer so I haven’t run the PTFE tubes lol… I just printed out some ABS heat deflectors for the bottom of the dryer since it can blast the bottom of the spools with +10-15° C higher heat than the set temp, according to some other TH-camrs’ content.
I got the sunlu 4 a couple of months ago, and I mainly use it to store/dry my tpu/PC filaments. I didn’t know about the issue about the heat blasting on the bottom of the spools. Hopefully Mr FPF will investigate and come up with one of his ingenious design fixes. I have the heater below my X1C and when I print my tpu from it, I’m just a caveman and drag the filament out of it and feed it into my two way filament adapter on my X1C, since I find that more convenient than swapping the filaments around in the Sunlu and threading it through the tubes…plus I didn’t want to go through the hassle of measuring and cutting up the tube to fit on the adapter and making sure it works properly😂
I printed the bin and it works great. Thank you so much for providing it for free. I am now subscribed!!!😄
You’re welcome and thx for sub.
Qidi has your video up showing your design, along with one that is a chute that drops the poop off at the back left corner.
Maybe I'm stating the obvious, but something I do when designing things that have 'fitment' requirements, I always print a cropped verson of just the fitment part(s) to make sure they're good. So, I would have printed just a single 'nub' before running the entire part off.
In my case I will have to design a Shute to that box on the side.
Thank you for the video as I used it to get my Plus 4 up and running. Now I would like to ask you how I would go about using your STL for the Poop scute,
I have the flash drive that came with my Plus 4 do I need to hook up my Plus 4 to my internet to download the file or would you suggest that I download the file from my computer to the flash drive. I received my Plus 4 on 10-01-24 and was afraid to open it and start it up especially with all of the fire problems and heater problems, but after I watched your video, I felt confident that I could get it running. Thank you!
Just don't use the heated chamber until you get their replacement part in and you'll fine. I would download onto your computer and open in qidi studio, also on your computer, and send to plus 4 over the wifis. Otherwise, yeh, you can just put it on a thumbdrive.
Glad to see you are getting some new prints done on your new 4Plus. What slicer are you using when doing the print where you show corner pushed in a bit? I had a similar issue on corner showing on my Q1 few weeks back, found out that table I was using had a wobble that hit hard every time table came down only on the right side, moving printer to sturdier desk fixed my issue, but yours does not have the same looks as my corner issue when it reared it's head. You may try to mess with wall order or wall thickness or look for wall thickness options, classic vs Arachne maybe? Perhaps if using infill in that location look at changing percentage overlap or type of infill you are using. Thanks for the purge bin, will send it to my Plus4 and see how it works out. On way in to work in a few minutes, will sit down a bit later and take time to look at video fully.
I still have not done anything with the 4 Plus besides a simple auto level and input shaping routine. I must be breaking the 200 hr barrier with heated chamber running on 95% of the prints been doing in ABS. I have been burning through filament at an extremely crazy rate this past two weeks! I am running my Q1 and 4Plus at the same time when out in Eastern Mass during my work weeks and when back home in Western Mass on days off my little Xsmart3 runs 24/7 doing ABS flawlessly and that unit does not have heated chamber, it is a true workhorse also. I run bed temps on ABS anywhere from 90C up to high of around 103C with nozzle temps at average of 275C to 277C using the QIDI Rapido or odorless ABS, great filament. If I use the QIDI or Siraya GF based ABS I slow the machine down to around average speed of 160-180mm/sec max for inner wall speed and bit less for outer walls. I run the speeds quite a bit higher when doing regular ABS Rapido anywhere between 220 to 280mm/s with that product without issue on quality. I do run a nice slow speed on all first layers, 50mm/s to ensure a perfect starting layer.
I do hope to have some extra time to fine tune my bed level and flow settings, although my prints do not really show the need for the stuff I have been printing, but sure it will help and I am curious how things are looking on this machine, have owned now a bit longer than 4 weeks. I do light lubrication and cleaning once every two days of use, which is about 28hrs of run time. I managed to order up only the .6mm bi metal replacement nozzles, wanting to get my hands on some of their .4mm but they were not showing available in stock yet. I did grab spare silicone pads, boots, and blades at a great price through QIDI along with at least a dozen rolls or more of their ABS along with few more rolls of their ABSGF25 and a few rolls of their PET CF, incredible stuff! I print PET CF at temps average around 310-315C with my 4Plus and believe bed temps were 80C to 90C, perhaps a wee bit higher, used whatever box recommended for bed temp. I printed the PET CF after a solid 12hrs+ in my Polymaker dryer system, was very impressed with this material and the price is right on it when bought in bulk. I bought the Polymaker drying system with three extra boxes a few weeks back after receiving my 4 Plus, love that system, although I do plan on getting a large food dehydrator in the future. I do print lots of engineering grade plastics, love them, but past few week plus been on a pure ABS kick, much easier on my wallet with the amount of prints I am churning out. I am also awaiting the .4mm bimetal nozzles to get in stock, I only have two .6mm nozzles arriving any day as a backup at the moment. I do not like to run machine with all the filler based products without ensuring I have some extra nozzles laying around just in case, clogs can happen, but I think I have had only about three clogs in the past year when running all of my QIDI Machines, a very solid track record. I just know that clogs will happen at the most inconvenient time and like to be prepared to handle them, ensuring stock on nozzles.
Nice Purge Bin, printed out beautifully on my Plus4, looks to be solid design! Let is auto choose tree organic support only off the plate. Small tree showed up on the back side to support two spots! Thank you
qidi studio
how about to use some magnets?
Great design by the way
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
How long did it take to print your final "waste cup"?
Great video
How did you get the white printing on side
fiber laser
Thanks for the video. There is a lot of useful info. I'm a beginner with CAD and 3D printing. What CAD program are you using in this video? Thanks.
sketchup
HAH! This is awesome. Printing it now. Love how you talked to your twin. I wish I could design objects like you just did. This is great. Just to be clear.. maybe my QidiSlicer settings are wrong (not a fan.. prefer ORca but apparently that doesnt work over wifi with the Plus 4.. though I may use it to export gcode and then use Fluid to upload from my machine). Anyway.. its going to take 12 hours to print with PLA, .4mm nozzle. Is that right?
thx! what layer height? that sounds really long. I think mine was 5-6 hrs @.2 layer height with PLA if I recall
Dear FPF,
Great channel, I don't like and can't see the point of printing mythical figures or masks etc. Please may you continue with useful and functional designs.
Thanks so much for your video, your Poop Bucket was one of the first things that I printed with my new Qidi Plus 4, it's great, Qidi should put it on their USB stick that comes with the printer!
Cheers,
Eve
thx!
Would running extension arc welder in software help? Should help with textured sides
Hadn’t heard of it but i’ll check it out. Thx for suggestion
What layer height are you using? The smaller the layer height the less weird things happen, even though it takes longer.
.2 and I agree .1 would likely look even better
Will you present your conclusions on this printer soon?
I'll likely do a quick vid with my printer recommendations for the upcoming holiday. I think the avg viewer of the channel is probably tired of hearing about this printer already, but not sure :)
What are VFA's?
"Vertical fine artefacts."
When asking Google for help (recommended), type the acronym and the context (3d printing in this case).
thanks for the video. In return give me dimensions of the purge hole, and i'll do a design for you to validate. I've got some ideas.
not sure what you mean. the rectangular size of the exit of the chute? FYI, this one is working well so far. I've been printing almost continuously and none have "missed" the bin yet
Please check the SSR on the Plus 4, on some Models its an fire hazard!
See the last video form 3D musketeers,
yeh, for North American machines the duty cycle was set way too high. It was supposed to be 400w for the chamber and it was actually ~550w. They fixed it in firmware, and it's ~360w now, which seems like a good safety margin. I measured these myself using a current clamp on a scope, and these are the actual RMS current values.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday good it's some workaround is working!
but for my opinion it's still undersized with not enough safety margin. As for my opinion a SSR PCB must be fails save in any way.
@@berlinberlin4246 a bigger margin would be nice, but it's just not something we typically see in consumer level electronics, where the components often get run at 80% of max. If mine runs at or near the 400w on the sticker with the new settings I'm satisfied. The real question is what damage did the stock part take running at way over it's rating before they fixed it. I'd like to see QIDI replace them on any units that shipped before the firmware update.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday yay and some good communication of the important of the firmware update
One thing I don't understand...
If you have produce highly hydroscopic filaments, WHY would you put them on cardboard spools??! Cardboard vacuums up water like a sponge. It seems like that's just asking for trouble.
great video and design, if you can send me the fusion360 file, I can make some alterations so it needs less support, if you are okay with that
this is designed in sketchup
That electrical tape is going to be a gooey mess under normal conditions over time. You're putting it in a hot environment that will make it worse. Gaffer tape might be a better choice or just mask it off and put some paint on it.
I only use the Scotch 33/35 stuff and it's never gone gooey on me yet. I used to use whatever the cheapest stuff was years ago. .the Scotch is worth it's weight in gold
Perhaps you'll be right here, but I would be inclined to go grab a cheap bottle of nail polish from the drug store and paint it.
Or perhaps print a small chip out of ABS
Which mode lets you cycle like that on the S4? I’ve only used mode 1 lol
mode 2
Mod 2 lol. Both of mine work great. I bought one of the newer Ebios dryers that has the spool rotation and allows 3kg spools. The cheap af fan they used has a micro thin plastic shroud, and if you run it over 50°c the fan shroud melts into the fan blades and makes a terrible noise. i cut a piece of 4mm thick carbon fiber plate on my cnc and replaced the side that melts. Ran it and after a week, the bottom part that holds the blades of the fan melted and warped upward into the carbon fiber top i made. It works great, but the fan size they use is proprietary and I had to made a jig to use a 5015 blower. I wish these companies would stop cutting f🤬king corners on the dumbest bs. But I love my s4's
@@danieljamesbinderystu2968 Eibos is sending me one to check out after seeing this vid. . will be interesting to see if the issue persists
@danieljamesbinderystu2968 I asked EIBOS about your comment specifically. I'll let you know if/how they respond.
has anybody TROLLED about the irony of drying 3d filiment on a Epson? just sayin', lMFAO!
only just now :)
First?
No
lol, fight nice!
@@FunctionalPrintFriday lol