HIGH MILEAGE Motor Oil - Is It Actually DIFFERENT?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 มี.ค. 2023
- How much of what's on the label is marketing versus science? We analyzed a bottle of conventional 5W-30 Pennzoil, High Mileage 5W-30 Pennzoil, and Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 Synthetic to find the differences. Watch as Certified Lubrication Specialist, Lake Speed Jr, reveals the findings. The results are quite interesting...
To learn more about oil analysis, here's a quick video: • Your Engine Is Telling...
To put the power of oil analysis to work for you, visit www.speediagnostix.com
Pennzoil products are available at amzn.to/3GrTkFG
Who is the @themotoroilgeek ? I'm a Society of Tribologists and Lubrication Engineers Certified Lubrication Specialist and Oil Monitoring Analyst (I've maintained both of those for over a decade). I also worked for Joe Gibbs Racing for 12 years as their lubricant specialist. During that time, we worked with Wix Filters (one of our sponsors) to test and develop filters for our race engines. We also worked with Lubrizol and Chevron-Phillips Chemical to test and develop oils for our race cars. Following that, I was the head of R&D for Driven Racing Oil. During that time, I formulated and tested over 50 products. We also worked with Cummins, Comp Cams, Oak Ridge National Labs and General Motors on various R&D products. Those efforts are recorded in peer reviewed white papers published by SAE International and ACS Sustainable Chemistry journals.
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases That just means that I may earn a small commission, at no cost to you, if you choose to purchase that product from Amazon.com. It is a way to help support the work of The Motor Oil Geek.
#motoroil #zinc #engine #synthetic - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
A lot of this went over my head, maybe a chart at the very end to see the differences back to back on the three oils might have been helpful
I concur. maybe more charts with comparisons to other oils. charts, graphs, etc.
or at least a nice Venn Diagram.
-Ktoes Harris
its really simple tho lol
I agree with all the above, the bottom line is ???
Definitely needs a chart summary. Too much talk. More charts.
I graduated in 1984 with a degree in Chemistry. I absolutely love stuff like this. Thanks for taking the time to produce these vids.
Glad you enjoy it!
Thanx for your work. Can you tell everyone what brand & type oil you personally use in your vehicles please?@@themotoroilgeek
@@thegeneraljoe67 I don't have a specific brand that I use. Instead, the application dictates which chemistry I use and then I pick the brand I trust to deliver that chemistry. I also test different products in my daily driver via used oil analysis. Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0W-40 is what's in it now.
I graduated undergrad with Degree in physics minor in bio and chemistry and I just like but don't love this. Thanks for taking the time to produce these videos even though I only like not love them.
@@themotoroilgeekrecommendation for a 2000 Toro Groundsmaster 325-D (Mitsubishi diesel engine) with over 3,000 hours? I recently took on this mower and am in the process of changing the fluids. The engine oil had 250hrs on it & I’m unsure of age, but I would guess 5 years? The oil was BLACK. Currently have gone through 3 engine oil changes in about 1-hour of run time using Penzoil conventional 10w-30 oil and it’s finally starting to lighten-up in color. I live in MN & mow 4-8hrs/wk for roughly 26 weeks annually. I typically change my oil based on OE recommendation or when it appears to be getting dirty (darker golden brown).
I started using Pennzoil full synthetic platinum after watching Project Farm videos on the best oils. This confirms his findings.
But his results differ based on the viscosity😬😬😬
@@TGears314 such as?
@@TGears314 no shit
What about pennzoil ultra platinum vs pennzoil high mileage vs pennzoil plat
@jason200912 I use the platinum mileage on my car & just platinum on my wife's. I did use Royal Purple for years and got over 300k on my G6. I then had a mechanic friend tell me they changed their formula and it wasn't as good. He recommended Amsoil and I used that for a few years without complaint. Then Project Farm turned me onto the Pennzoil products with his comparison of Amsoil and Pennzoil. They are similar, but Pennzoil is cheaper. This is just my opinion
In the transportation business, mainly as a mechanic, for almost 46 years, and I never thought I would find motor oil so interesting. Thanks for another great video!
Good advice here, very thorough breakdown! I was very young in 1963 but I remember my dad got a tutorial from the local Ford dealer as he was handed the keys to the baby blue Country Squire. Quick first oil change, vary highway speeds, don't race rpms especially when cold, 'baby' it from a stop. (trans care was mentioned too) After 3,000 miles he could relax but still change every 3 to 3,500 miles. The engine was a 260 v8 I remember from the cool front fender logo. Great car that served for many years until Pennsylvania road salt finally ate the body and wood grain.
Salt is really a killer man I hate it.... So many good vehicles go to waste it's just sad :(
Yes all good advice. That fake woodgrain suffers from road salt...
Fluid Flim really helps prevent salt corruption!
Started running penzoil thanks to project farm oil video from many years ago. Was impressed how it was just a few points behind AMS oil.
Far cheaper too.
*pennzoil ultra platinum
@@kanyeeastlolz yes I use ultra platinum on my raptor, platinum on my wife’s car and AMS oil on my ZL1.
Amsoil over pencil, less sludge over time if you’ve ever torn your engine apart
@@EnjoyCarI don’t necessarily disagree with your position. That said, you don’t have to dig too deep to find disdainful practices of any large corporation. It’s just a matter of will and effort.
Thanks for the great info NOT for the distracting background music.
Thanks for the feedback.
Hey, thanks for the enlightening info.@@themotoroilgeek
So refreshing to get knowledge and science based comments instead of opinion and belief driven affirmations ! Thank you !
Glad you enjoyed it!
Great job again Lake! Really appreciate your professionalism and passion to educate the masses on lubrication. Many thanks!
Thank you
Looking forward to your observations after running the Synthetic in your Porsche. Always interesting videos, THANKS!
Wow, thanks Lake Speed Jr!!!
That was better than a college class and the info kept coming, firing on every cylinder!
I appreciate you hammering the point about “don’t need high TBN!”
Great Video I work for SHELL and the site I'm based out of is the largest ALPHA OLEFIN Producer in the world so some amount of what we produce ends up in Motor Oils. I also worked at the GTL Plant in Qutar and it was a very impressive place. The size of the Rotating Equipment is quite impressive especially in the Oxygen Unit, since the front end of the conversion requires tremendous amounts of oxygen. Looking forward to more videos.
Thanks!
I'd like to see a Valvoline 3 oil comparison like this. Very informative. Thank you!
Thank you!
Yes please do a valvoline breakdown
@@themotoroilgeek please review the new valvoline restore and protect.
@@vermontvermont9292 Coming soon!
@@themotoroilgeek yes! I'm currently running it now. 487 miles so far on it. Btw, what would YOU use for a 1.5L direct injection turbocharged engine? There's so many choices, I had been running castrol edge 0w20 full synthetic. I wanted to switch it up though. Just curious on your thoughts.
So happy you teach us to learn chemistry without being afraid. I actually learned a lot. I wish all the science teachers could warch and learn too.
Thanks!
I'm an average gear head and have tried to watch/listen to other reports on the subject, almost fell asleep a few times. You my friend, I could listen to you for hours on how to tie shoe laces, great video, been using Platinum 5w30 in everything for a long time. Thanx for quantifying my choice.
Thanks!
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum is worth the extra cost over regular Pennzoil Platinum, especially when purchased at places like Walmart where the difference in price is not that much. Mobil 1 EP is also a very good oil, definitely better than regular Mobil 1.
Great hearing an expert break down the components of different oils and additives, that even I can understand !!! Great Video, THANKS
Thank you
Thank you, people don't realize how lubricants make such a longevity difference. Even important in the days of hand cranked bulk dispensers into tin capped glass bottles.
Lake another great video. Thanks for sharing all your knowledge.
So every vehicle except one in our little household Fleet uses 5w 30 full synthetic. this helps so much Lake thank you..
I’m only 5 minutes in and already love your TBN/SP opinion. First I’ve heard someone explain it like that instead of poo-pooing the new oils.
The reason people are questioning the new spec is because not all of the brands who manufacture GF-6/SP certified oil do a good job plain and simple. They just don't, and Pennzoil isn't who I'm referring to.
Some of the others just do not have adequate additive packages. A lot SN/SN+ oil were perfectly fine but from my understanding the push for the new spec was based not on concern for longevity of the engine. Fuel economy was a big factor. Maybe I'm wrong I don't know.
@@DavidTMSNi first thought that too, but he has videos showing why these new low viscosidade oils work different....
The Pennzoil platinum may also contain ashless anti oxidants and organic friction modifiers that may not show up on any type of elemental analysis, consider another big part of Dexos1 Generation 3 was lowering the ash threshold from 1.0% to 0.9%. Also having less moly in the the full syn may be that the blends are using a dinuclear type of moly while the full syn is use a trinuclear variety which is more effective in a lower concentration.
Some nerdy stuff, I like it.
Some nerdy stuff, I like it.
Indubitably 😅
Huh
Given the (to me at least) low moly levels in almost all newer oils (as compared to the older, pre-SN spec oils), I thought that they ALL are using the newer 'trimer' (trinuclear) type of moly, which is more effective than the old(er) 'dimer' (dinuclear) stuff, therefore much less of it is needed to get the same results/effect. ??
This is why I hate the oil standards, they make changes and update certain specs but then they don't bother making the proper adjustments on things like TBN?? Another great informative video!
I’ve been using Mobil 1 synthetic 10 w 30 for years and I recently got interested in the switching. This was a big help towards understanding what they’re doing with the natural gas to motor oil thing. It would appear to be a lot cleaner
Thanks Lake. Great job. Good info. God bless. Happy trails.
Really appreciate your analysis breakdowns. Would like to see a Valvoline comparison sometime. I have used that brand for years, but after checking out this Pennzoil video I’m probably going to try it my next oil change.
Great suggestion!
@@themotoroilgeek - I'm with ^.
Thank you for taking the time to clarify. My passion for machines and their intricate workings is something I've cherished since I was young, carrying that Honda HR217. Whether it's my choice in top-grade oils for my machines or diving into the nitty-gritty of TBN values, I strive to know and provide the best. Living in Belgium has only reinforced my appreciation for high standards and quality. I'm always eager to expand my knowledge, and I'm grateful for this clear explanation. Here's to always learning and prioritizing quality in all we do!
I'm the kinda guy that puts Amso 10w30 SS Diesel in his GCV530 V-twin engine. or XL Boosted. And ZROD in in his Dolmar blowers. Rowe - hightec synth rs sae 5w-40 is next is next on the menu.
Anyway. Thanks!
@@themotoroilgeek Could you test Mobil 1 High Mileage full synthetic while you're at it? I'm curious how these stack up against one another. I've used M1 for years now, and I've wondered if it's worth the extra expense.
Thanks for the great analysis and info on Pennzoil. Mobil 1 used to be my go to oil for years but now Pennzoil Platinum is and have noticed a big difference in engine performance and condition at OCI!
Thanks for sharing!
Just switched to Pennzoil ultra premium high mileage 5w30. 2013 Hyundai 2 liter 120k miles. Mpg increased by 2 in town and 3 highway. Was running syn 5w30 by Walmart.
@@oldgringo66 Hands down the best oil I’ve ever used!!
Just FYI Project Farm made a test of all main Pennzoil Oils and according to their analysis Platinum demonstrated worse performance in comparison with Full Synthetic. Ultra Platinum took the 1sr place. Check this one as you may find it interesting: m.th-cam.com/video/D3qFfAEp9AU/w-d-xo.html
Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and Mobil 1 EP are worth the few extra dollars (per 5-quart jug). If you really want a quality oil at a reasonable price, these are the two that should be compared, instead of regular Pennzoil Platinum or regular Mobil 1.
Please do a Platinum vs Ultra Platinum comparison
Please
Please do. when I saw project farms results I was surprised. I heard someone say Platinum= Ultra platinum + Full synthetic.
They're both base GTL oils, The ultra has a better add pack
@@TonyTundra5.7 Agree, regarding the add pack, as confirmed by my Blackstone test reports.
Im not living in a little town and you cant find ultra platinum anywhere.
@@metatronmen2431 Amazon
Monday morning nerding out on oil tech. Thanks :)
Pennzoils new SP /GF-6 rated synthetic blend & full synthetic engine oils are best overall "off the shelf" oils you can buy today. Period. There use of GTL base stock is cleaner & more pure than refined mineral oil base stocks in all OTHER premium oils such as Mobil1, Castrol Edge etc. I've used Pennzoil Platinum / Ultra Platinum in my newer GTDI Ecoboost F150 trucks w/ excellent results. Used oil analysis by Blackstone Labs showed low wear metals present always/overall outstanding engine cond @ 168k mis on my '18 F150 Lariat FX4. Thus im running Pennzoil Platinum in my '22 F150 XLT Tremor w/ OEM Motorcraft filters. -NY
Might be off topic but I gotta agree Penz is the best; I just bought my truck a while back, dark brown oil
My first mpg was around 16, 17 on real good days and after their high millage oil. I was consistently and easily pulling off 19 mpg and 18
Never dipped under 18 until I drove really sporty!
You can’t use a UOA to show any oil being superior to another wear wise. You could run mobil 1 vs Pennzoil synthetic side by side on chassis dynos and there would be virtually zero difference in wear between them. It’s actually been done in taxis (white papers are available online). When you get into synthetics (GTL, PAO, polyol ester, hydro cracked group III… there just isn’t any huge advantage one oil base over another unless you are in EXTREME cold or you need a long OCI… just the facts. You can like Pennzoil all day long and it’s a great product. But saying it’s the best oil….theres no such thing
mobil buys gtl base stocks from sopus now. tell us more how mobil isnt as good
I absolutely love your videos and thank you for making this one. It's really helpful to hear a real expert break things down for consumers like me instead of just judging a product entirely off some random oil analysis (which is still helpful but not complete). If possible I would love to hear your thoughts on Pennzoil Ultra Platinum as that tends to be my first choice for modern performance street engines.
I'm also still trying to figure out which 0w-16 oils I prefer since I have a few newer Toyota's in my family. So far Mobil 1 extended performance and Pennzoil Platinum are all I can find, but it seems that Valvoline advanced 0w-16 might be a better option.
How about you sending a small sample of Toyota's own 0W16 or 0W20 engine for L.S. Jr to do a test in his lab? 🤔🤔👏👏👏
@@whlawson5812 might have to look into, I was thinking of comparing Toyota oem oil with valvoline advanced
I learned more in this video then 14 years of following BITOG forum
AMS Oil makes a full synthetic 0w-16 its suspost to be of high quality
I occasionally hang out on BITOG but the the arrogance there is palpable 😄@@pacsunzr2
Thanks to this, I've switched to API SP ILSAC GF-6A oil (Mobil 1 Advanced Protection) for my 2019 TGDI engine. User manual specified API-SN.
I was freaking impressed by the in depth analysis! 👍
I can tell you from experience, these are all very good quality oils. The first 75,000 miles, almost every single oil change was Pennzoil 5W-30 conventional. After that I started using Pennzoil 5W-30 high mileage oil. Normally use a Bosch premium oil filter or other premium filter. I’ve never tried the fully synthetic. I change my oil every 4000 - 5000 miles. I have a 2007 Toyota Tacoma 4.0 V6 with 145,000 miles that I bought brand new, and it still runs like brand new. It’s very easy changing the oil myself.
I have a 04 Dodge Ram Hemi with 300,000 on it. Runs like brand new.
@@rdallas81 I have a 2003 Corolla with 395,000 and it still drive like brand new.
Change every 3000
@@HubG950I have 2005 corolla with 330000....on supertech conventional 5w30 running like brand new.
New subscriber! My 2003 Avalon runs great on Pennzoil full synthetic-256 k and counting. 5 K change interval! Thanks for all your hard work 🙏👍
Thank you for dispelling the TBN test! Too many people base their decision on that single number.
You are welcome and I agree. Too many people are hung up on TBN.
I really appreciate your knowledge, your enthusiasm & your civility. I watch several auto presenters who have great ethics & knowledge. ------- You're one of the good guy's! 🙂
Thanks!
Interesting that you mentioned a Forester boxer! Just did a rering in my '03 Forester because of it's drinking problem of 1 qt per 1000 miles or less. Didn't do anything else but changed the rings. Well, of course, new head gaskets and other related gaskets.
I found the oil return holes behind the oil rings to be completely plugged full of brown carbon. I started attempting to clean them with a drill bit and my fingers. Moved up to putting that bit into a drill, and it still was tough cleaning them!
I've put just about a 1000 miles on the new rings and haven't noticed any oil consumption. Power is up as well as millage from 22 to pushing 26.
There's over 200,000 miles on the car. Crosshatch still visible in the cylinders.
*_I noticed my 97 Honda Civic rear main seal dosent leak as much ever since I switched from cheap conventional 5w-30 oil to fully synthetic high mileage penzoil 5w-30. I can say it actually works!_*
Use AT-205
@@paularc1899 Yes, but the price of At-205 has risen 50% in 3 years.
I use Hi-Mileage and also bump up to 10w-30 during the summer months (April -Oct). 90% of my drips are gone! When I go back to 5W Hi-mileage in the winter , I hope it stays just as dry.
I had seal leaks stop completely with pp hm oil. A car that was dripping down the pan to no longer dripping the next change.
Great for beaters
The synthetic causes the seals to expand in conventional engines.
This is outstanding data! Simply superb info and explanations!
Glad it was helpful!
@@themotoroilgeek Do you have anywhere oil report for Mobil 1 Extended Performance 0W20 ?
@@nicholaspetre1 stay tuned! That video is coming soon.
I have used Pennzoil products for years now, in five Honda V6 engines. Our 2006 Odyssey went 200K on 5W-20 and never needed additional oil between changes. Have driven my 2013 Accord 142K so far. Also have 2016, '17, and '18 vehicles... all four using recommended 0W-20 full synthetic, changed according to the built in reminder, and none burn any oil. Some of the quick change places try to up-sell the high mileage oil. I see no reason to shift when they all run like new engines on the recommended fill. Great info... keep the great vids coming!
Hey great to listening your tutorials on oils.
Excellent tutorials
Glad you like them!
Would you be willing to do a video comparing some of the top-of-the-line full synthetic high mileage motor oils like Pennzoil, Mobil1, Valvoline, and Castrol? I feel like it would benefit a lot of people who own and maintain older vehicles. I have been using Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage on both of my cars that are at or above 200,000mi. I've gone with this based on Project Farms video from a few years ago, but would like to see some more analysis on whether there are better options.
This would be interesting, I have an older model truck, 1992, it has the stock 5.0 liter in it with over 200k miles. I would be interested in knowing if the newer or synthetic oils would be helpful or harmful to an older engine like this that may not have been designed with the newer oils in mind.
Don't forget the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum haha
For real where’s the top shelf stuff??
In the corner of my garage.
I agree 100% Pennzoil ultra Platinum is one of the best top performing oils on the market
@@johnfleming68 Not really.
In my garage and in my truck.
I been using valvoline, they were out of the regular high mileage I got the synthetic one. Which seemed to help my oil burning problems greatly. I figure it helped to free up piston rings in my 260,000 mile car.
great great vids.. you have a credible presence on screen that keeps you listening. even if its not what i was looking for.. i always learn something as in this case as well.. you "TBN" "spoiler alert" like it doesn't matter was a mind blower.. how many vids have we seen where everyone and their mother swears by it.. ouch .. i have to admit i've been using castrol gtx for a few years in my old 1985 vw vanagon.. sounds like i should switch over to the castrol classic .. also great explaination about the differences.. different vid but you know what i mean.. anyway.. new to your stuff but excited to see more.. thanks.. cheers.. v;p
Could you cover the Pennzoil ultra platinum? How much does it vary from the platinum?
Very interesting, I bought Pennzoil ultra platinum, truck has over 80,000 miles. Doesn't use oil, will the ultra be as good as anything or should I use a high mileage or another oil?
Good information for people who already know this information. Clear as mud.
Interesting video! I just did an oil change in my truck yesterday and I used Pennzoil Platinum for the first time. Hopefully it will give me good results.
Pennzoil ultra platinum SRT 0W40 is the only oil that keeps my hemi lifters quiet and i have MDS disabled. I've Tried different grades of royal purple, Pennzoil conventional, mobil 1 and amsoil. None of them worked as well has Pennzoil 0w40 but I also use a moly additive. Oil pressure is a few numbers higher, engine is quieter and i see 23mpg highway often with that oil so I know it's doing something. Definitely sticking with them for every vehicle
The moly engine additive is amazing!
I have a SRT 6.4 Hemi also. I also feel the Penzzoil I very good. Now tgat my warranty i switched to Ansoil Signature from what i understand Amsoil has better base stock with pao, and easter, higher ZDDP, and seal conditioners. I've also tried the Redline easter core high performance. Between all three oil brands I feel the Amsoil helps tge engine run smoother . I'm curious if you used the Ams Signature, ir Oem ?
Also tge additive your using us the Ceratec ?
I can say this is true. I owned a 17 scat pack for a year, when i picked it up used from the dealership (Chevy dealer) it had a slight hemi tick. It had 22k miles on it. I changed the oil to penzoil with the “srt” on the bottle, and the tick went away! And never returned. I now have a 5.7 hemi, I use penzoil platinum full synthetic 5w20 and it does really good.
I think you would find that Valvoline would also be like the Pennzoil with the quiet factor. I say that from experience with them also. With Mobil 1 I always had the slight tick noise.
Would love to see a video on oil additives. Ceratec, MOS2, STP Ceramic etc etc. Just your thoughts on if they work at all and if there is ever a time / situation to use them
+ LubeGard BioTech, Molygen, RLI, Torco Moly additives, the good ol' boy truckers fave MotorKote, etc.
This was excellent, and I appreciate it. I also found it interesting how some of these chemicals are also used in the process of optical fiber. Bcl3, pocl3, sicl3, used in a vapor form, not liquid though.
wonderful - great to hear real oil info.
Some combinations do have their advantages though. I used to have a 2006 Grand Caravan with a slightly abused 3.8L V6 (prior owner). Day one, it was burning oil at a rate of 1-1/2 quarts per 5,000 mile oil change using 5w20. I'm not much into addditives, so i tried Mobil 1, Pennzoil Platinum, even Kendall oil. Even ran some Lucas oil. The magic combo was the Valvoline MaxLife synthetic blend oil, as it reduced my burn rate to less than 1/2 a quart between oil changes. Since then, I've been a strong supporter of Valvoline high mileage motor oils.
And yes, the brand of oil filters does aid in the longevity of oils as well. Used to be a Wix user, but saw lots of cut open inspections and saw glue chunks floating around in their canisters from factory. New filters, too. I'm more into either Mobil 1 or NAPA premium filters now, even Motorcraft.
The Valvoline Max Life Blend is an amazing oil. I've seen great results with that oil in many engines.
I believe WIX is the manufacturer of the Napa Gold oil filters, although if memory serves they're better quality than the standard WIX ones. Used to work for a Hyundai dealership and one of the parts guys cut open a Napa and a WIX and the Napa was better constructed
THANK YOU, Son.!! That old saying that the apple doesn't fall far from the tree is true here.! Your an awesome man like your Dad.! I always pulled for your Dad every Sunday.! I liked all the underdogs, and cheered them on against the Big Money teams. Lake Speed, Dave Marcus, Jimmy Means, and the others. There are millions of guys all over the world who are interested, and will be thankful for the time, and hard work, and knowledge you are offering to us.! I first saw you on another channel. The one where you,, and your Dad gave the Grand Tour of his shop, and the old Cars, engines, trophies, and everything else you could possibly think of. I have seen you on the Australians channel, LUBRICATION Explained. I know you will have millions of subscribers worldwide if TH-cam's algorithm is ever overcome. Question. ?? Whatever happened to all the WYNN'S PRODUCTS locally for sale in the UNITED STATES.?? I remember when they were available in about any store you could go to.!??? I tried years ago to find them, but only saw them available in other countries.! You take care, and take care of your family, and Dad.!! Tell him his old fans still care about him.!!! THANKS AGAIN, for All the help.! I'm just north of you, to the west of CAMEL CITY.!!! Not far at all.!! I've known Mike Dillon since the 5th grade, and been friends since. We know alot of the same people, and places but for everyone's personal privacy, I leave it at that.!! GOOD LUCK WITH YOUR CHANNEL, AND FUTURE.!!! 😉😉😉🙂🙂😁❤🥇🥇🥇🙏🙏🙏🙏
Thank you for the very kind words.
Been using Pennzoil Platinum Ultra 0W20 in my Outback for years, and 5W30 in everything older for as long as it's been on the market. Pretty close to AmSoil without the trouble of tracking the stuff down.
This was very good information on the oil characteristics, but I would have liked to hear your final conclusion on the different oils in terms of performance.
Glad I found your channel. I've been going down the oil rabbit hole and there is lots of disinformation out there.
Thanks, that's why I'm doing this. Trying to get the correct info out there.
It’s always been my understanding that high milage oils just have more seal conditioners in it. I’m glad i understood correctly.
Now, the big question is what is more cost effective, the high milage oil or an off the shelf additive added to regular oil? Which has more conditioner? The HM oil at 6qt or the additive diluted over 6qts? Then you can deduce the price per qt of the conditioner.
Finally Someone I feel I can trust, and with all the knowledge and expertise and REAL WORLD experience to be able to tell the truth!
Thank you!
Incredible source of information thank you.
Thanks!
Do a before and after video of high mileage engine cylinders before and after adding coolant to engine intake, and compare to using seafoam and techron.
Amazing videos, thanks !
Thanks for the suggestion.
i was hoping you had your own channel! saw you on Stapleton's channel and thought you'd be an interesting one to crank out some videos. Glad you do!
Thanks!
On your advice, I'm using Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic in my 06 Duratec 3.0L V6. It has 236,000 miles and it leaks a little bit of oil from everywhere. Maybe the seal conditioners will help with that. I'll be doing my 3rd oil change in about 800 miles. Changing at a 3,000 interval.
Always great information Lake!
Awesome channel and explained in a way we can all understand Thank you You have a new subscriber
Thanks!
I pretty much have no clue what you were talking about through this entire video. But what it did make me realize is that oil is complicated and that I need to stick to whatever oil the manufacturer recommends and change it often.
LOL, sorry about that, but you did come to the right conclusion.
🤣😂👍
Very interesting. I just change oil every 5k miles. Of course, i believe these differences will show up over time. With frequent changes i think that time will be will into the future, unless youre driving a Hyundai or a Chrysler
This is best video yet from L.S Jr. 🎉🎉🎉 Many thumbs up. Pls do one test for Shell Ultra 5W 40. Boron said to be 200ppm and 464 degree F flash point. GTL base oil.
Why they would not stick onto container a label stating the typical spec of their additives in the oil?. Just as an example.
"magnesium 300 to 350ppm, calcium 800 to 900ppm, boron 100 to 125ppm, zinc 800 to 900ppm. Phosporous 600 to 625. Moly 60 to 80ppm. POA ester 8 to 10%. Etc etc"
Will make buyer's selection & buying secision much easier.
Thanks. I'm glad you liked it.
Your comment about soliability interests me. I have seen dark stuff in the bottom of oil bottles and wondered about it.
Always enjoy your videos 👍
Thanks!
Love these videos!
Thanks!
My 1999 Camry 2.2l LOVES Pennzoils Platinum High Mileage 5W-30. I was using Walmart synthetic but was getting smoke at startup. That's changed to no to minimal smoke at start up with the Pennzoil.
How many miles on your 2.2? My ‘99 2.2 is at 339,000 and I’m thinking of changing to Pennzoil Platinum at my next oil change.
I did a LOT of research to use a new oil and Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum (good luck getting that anywhere but online) both came out on top in basically everything. I was expecting Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil, and Mobile 1 to all beat it out.
Idk what Pennzoil did since the early 2000's when I first started driving but man they went for it with their synthetics. I'm just glad they made a Platinum that exceeds the top certifications for my TDI. Not many oils get that cert.
Interesting how two are the same with minor tweaks, and the third one has a lot of differences! 🐺🔧
Yep. This was a fun one.
Thank You simplifying something that can be very difficult to understand👍
I like watching your videos and learning about oils, fuels, analysis reports etcc.
I see you've done vids on Pennzoil and Mobile 1, are there any updates on Driven?
How does Driven compare to these oils?
I know you had a part of formulating Driven, if not doing it all, but I don't see much updated info on the oil.
I'll be doing an oil change on my 2012 911 CS, and was planning on using Driven, but now I see these other vids, sooo... just wanted to know how they compare, if you have the info.
Thanks and keep up the informative videos!
Thanks for the feedback and the question. The Driven oils still show the best results in the used oil samples we see on a daily basis, so I highly recommend them. I've not done videos on them yet as I wanted to make sure people saw that I wasn't just talking up the products I formulated.
Awesome video, a great reference. I have been using the Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum in my vehicles. I wait for it to go on sale because it is pretty pricey otherwise.
Congratulations for the wonderful video!
I know that the reverse hydrolysis of ESTER produces weak acids, since Calcium acts only on strong acids, isn't it dangerous to have a high ESTER content in the engine?
Regarding PAO, I know that it is not very compatible with the elastomers of the gaskets, is it also for this reason that it is mixed with ESTER?
Great question! A high ester content oil is more susceptible to hydrolysis, so that is a good reason not to run a fully Ester oil in a daily driver.
In regards to the seals, a specific type of ester can be used to help with seals (if needed).
@@themotoroilgeek Does 100% (or close to it) ester base stock, automotive engine oil even exist??
Lake, extremely informative as alway man, which one of the key themes I keep hearing is about the oils like 0w 30 for instance over the traditional way I would look at oil say for a racecar. Which would be the standard 20W 50 for a performance application. Of course, I am no doubt seeing my line of thinking isn't or wasn't as fruitful as I was lead to believe for such a long time.
It is also definitely got me even reconsidering using my Amsoil 20W 50 in my 97 3.8 Chrysler van. Although I still love my Amsoil products, so I may just have to look into the 5W 30 as the manufacturer recommends and stop playing around with the higher numbers like 20W 50.
Because no doubt something else that comes across from your videos is my line of thinking is most definitely flawed. 😂
I’m glad the videos are helpful!
Always use what the manufacturer specifies on the oil cap. That 20w50 is way too thick for your engine if they require 5w30. There are many reasons they specify that grade of oil.
i used m1 in my vette engine, went rite out the exhaust... filled it up w/3 qts of stp 20w50, ran like a champ... which AMSOIL r u considering ? ' premium protection' ( ARO ) or Z_ROD ( ZRF ) i hav used a higher weight oil 2 help STOP chewing oil, just up a little, f/a 5w30 2 a 5w40... it does work... 😁
A very interesting topic and it was well explained. I wish I could find the truth of small engine garden tractor oil vs car oil of the same weight.
Great suggestion!
so i put quaker state 5w30 in my 2020 ford f150 w a 2.7 turbo motor and i'm thinking about draining it at 1k miles just to put some penzoil platinum full synthtic in it cuz i know that's a great oil. do you think it will hurt to run reg oil or a syn blend in my truck
I had a Cruze that got totaled with over 200,000 miles that required Dexos oil. I used the cheapest oil that I could find on the shelf, mixed brands, viscosities, types, changed it every 10,000 miles and it ran perfect. I am sure this Platinum oil may be better but I think it is an overkill for a daily driver. Loved the video and am subscribing.
You're not really supposed to change viscosities lol. You put in what is recommended for the engine, nothing else.
@@mplslawnguy3389 Companies spend billions on marketing and the majority of the people fall for it. I myself like to think outside the box and prove it can be done with no negative consequences. Since the Cruze, I now have a G6 and have been following the same routine for years and it gets me to work Monday through Friday.
@@Olds_Pwr It's not "falling for" something. The engines are specifically designed to use a certain oil. Many modern engines have very narrow oil passages, thus need very light oils. Changing oils was fine on old cars, and people did that, but everything now needs very specific fluids and oils.
@@mplslawnguy3389 Thank you for your concern on this subject but do you have any thoughts on how I am able to get hundreds of thousands of miles on engines while doing what I have been doing for years?
@@Olds_Pwr All I’m saying is you’re supposed to use the recommended viscosity. You don’t have to buy the expensive brands, that’s not what I’m saying, but modern engines need very specific viscosities. Either you lucked out or have an older engine with a wider tolerance. Ask any mechanic worth his salt and he’ll tell you to not mess around with viscosity, use what the manual says. It’s also a good idea to find a favorite brand and stick with it.
Just found your channel. Sub'd. Very interesting content for me. I ran a PAO unit back in the 80's down near Deer Park Texas. We used the normal Decene feedstock and Boron fluoride / normal propanol super acid catalyst. Was a good running plant. But we were limited in throughput. So I was put in charge to build a second production unit to triple the capacity.
I know the PAO is quite difficult to get almost anything to dissolve in it. And it is fairly difficult to oxidize, as we had only a couple of small fires out in the tank farm area. But once on fire, it was extremely difficult to put out as the water just doesn't stay close to the oil on fire so we did things on an overkill basis and tried to overwhelm it with volume...
I also had a friend working just down the street at Lubrizol and he told me that the additive packages for PAO are in his words extreme to get things to work.
I will start now, going back and watching a bunch of your older and newer videos. I was friends with several of the researchers up in Cincinnati research and we discussed this topic often, and it seems when I was doing this (for about 5 years or so) the additive package was very dependent on the ester they used to blend with, now it seems I know a bit more about why.
For background....... Chem Engineer, getting old now, and retired. But always interested in the chemistry more than the engineering. But sadly, the graduate salaries on the Chem Engineer was about double the Chemist salary so my choice was prudent for my goals...
Awesome! Thanks for sharing. We are going to get deeper into the chemistry in future videos.
Great comment! Do you think compiter scuence and AI will disrupt what it is to be a chemist/material science engineer? How would that change the job opportunities of this field?
@gatorstupor I do think that AI will point the future engineers towards solutions they would not otherwise consider. And with more and more younger engineers veering off the hard science topics and towards computer based engineering, some of the "harder" thinkers will get left behind. Sometimes, the simpler solution is the better solution...
@lpconserv6074 hey thanks for your input!
My Acura CSX 2.0lL K engine has been on High milage Syn Blend QS is it ok to switch to Penzoil platinum full syn or Ultra platinum? anything bad in switching?
Thank you Professor ......
Great video. Been in a oil rabbit hole for the last couple weeks.
My Jeep 4.0 has a flat tappet lifters so I’m looking for a high ZDDP oil, to add to the dilemma we use high mileage mileage oils to reduce RMS leaks. Trying to find a all conventional high mileage oil is getting more difficult.
Any recommendations? I’m currently running NAPA high mileage with some redline break in additive (to raise the zinc). Front what I have researched that doesn’t seem to be the best solution.
Try the GP-1 oil from Driven. You will have to order it, but it already has the extra ZDDP and Molybdenum to protect those flat tappet lifters, and the synthetic blend is good for the RMS leaks.
@@themotoroilgeek Thanks for the quick response. Been doing some quick research on there oil (musclecarsolutions has a informative interview on there product). Looking at there product line I wonder if there HR2 (10w30) would fit my needs better? Its conventional (apparently our 4.0 loves dino oil) My jeep is only a off road toy not a DD, so it will sit during the week most of the time (extra zinc content is ok).
@@theroc77 I would choose the GP-1 over the HR oils.
Thank you. Finally, someone setting the world straight on TBN. I also hope the Amsoil "experts" listened to what you said about PAO and additives and realize the term 10-0% and full mean the same thing. Amsoil has some Group III in them so the additives can mix. I think Amsoil makes a great product but they should teach all of their "experts" it is their additive package that makes their oil perform, not the "100%" synthetic base, which it is not.
Thanks!
Exactly. There is no such thing as a "100% synthetic" oil. All motor oils come from the ground as crude. What you're paying extra for is more refining and a better additive package. Amsoil does not even make their own oil, they buy it from a bulk dealer and just add their additive package.
I use the platinum and love it.
Really absorbing the meaning of the oil recipes, thx. Are you going to do a series on oil friction reducing additives? I've been die hard for Prolong for all my gas engines for thirty years and would appreciate your analysis.
Yes, we are going to do a deep dive on additives.
@@themotoroilgeek sweet! Can't wait. Thx
I also was
Wondering how the ultra platinum performs with the group!
This is the sort of information I have been looking for. I've a new vehicle with 2.0L Ecoboost, and before I decide on which oil I want to use for the long haul, I want to learn something about the oils themselves and their differing characteristics and potential benefits over each other. As I am leaning towards a small number of brands, Pennzoil being one of them, this has been really quite helpful in educating myself. Now I need to scour your channel and see if you mention the other brands I'm considering too.
BTW: I work in a dealership and can use the OEM grade full synthetic Motorcraft oil, and get it at a discount, but I want to be assured I'm protecting my investment the best way possible, even if it costs me a couple dollars more w/each oil change. And I don't recommend or subscribe to the manufacturers extended oil change intervals as I've seen the good and bad to following that practice. One needs to be honest with the affects of their operating environment and the demands their driving habits on what required maintenance should be followed.
Thanks for the comment. We have several other videos on the channel that should be helpful. The key is not picking a brand first. That should be the last choice. Start with the application and work from there. Then choose the brand you trust to deliver that product consistently.
Since you have an EcoBoost, the key is getting a product designed for direct injection engines. The Motorcraft is a great oil to start with. Do used oil analysis to establish a baseline and then try a different oil (like the Pennzoil Ultra) to see if it actually reduces wear for your engine.
@@themotoroilgeek My big concern it first matching the recommended specifications, then determining which one might be less prone to promote varnish and reduce wear. I do not plan to exceed 4K intervals, keeping closer to 3-3.5K as my standard. Much of that is based on my environment, living in the north east, then on the style and type of driving I do. Since I'm older now I don't outright run my vehicles hard, but more spirited, nonetheless. Am I wrong in thinking something like the Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Castrol Edge full synthetic would be better again varnish production and wear vs. the OEM semi-synthetic oil?
@@staciecarverd8136 i like your line of thinking! Match the specs and then go with a full synthetic. That will reduce varnish formation and handle the turbo heat better.
Used oil analysis is the best way to determine which oil provides the best wear protection for your environment and driving style.
@@themotoroilgeekWhy didn’t you include the Ultra I your review?
@@saulespino2510 we have a different video that covers Ultra vs Platinum
I have a question, my 2015 silverado 5.3 calls for 5-20 dexos, I tow a 30 foot trailer about 7600 lbs, should i use a different weight of oil? Thanks.
I started using Platinum High Mileage Full Synthetic a number of years ago partially due to a trusted source on youtube that tends to test such things. For my 99 Tahoe nearing 200k i dont know of anything better.
Great stuff! Would love to see a comparo/discussion about the Euro oils...VW502 vs. 504 etc. 0W40 M1, Liquimoly 5W40s, etc. The LM MoS2 or Ceratec woudl be cool to hear about your take.
Euro formula oil is fine, so long as you use in an engine that specifies that kind of oil. Euro formula oils contain additives that American and Asian auto manufacturers don't want you using, because of the effect on the engine and/or emissions system. High quality API certified oils like Pennzoil Ultra Platinum or Mobil 1 EP provide more than enough protection for US and Asian engines and meet all manufacturer specifications for oil used in their vehicles.
@@Mark-rw3kw yes....that's why I made the comment....for those of with Euro vehicles...
+ The higher end Ravenol and Eurol brand oils. ;)
If you ever wrote a book I wanna buy 2. One autographed and the other as a textbook that I would refer to on a daily basis. So much damn good information.
Thanks!
Do you have a video about Amsoil? I didn't see one and was curious. I use Amsoil in my 16 Escalade and my Ram 2500 6.4 hemi. I'd like to know if I'm wasting my money or not. Thank you for any info.
Great vid! Question - I use havoline 5 W 30 in my 08 Ecotec 2.2 4. I put less than 1000 miles a year, and its stored in an open air garage in a humid coastal environment ( Pensacola, fl). I change oil once a year. Will my oil " go bad" in a year with this little usage? I heard it oxidizes in the engine and that causes problems. I drive the car I5 0r 6 miles once a week and occasional trips to town so it doesnt sit long periods without driving. I cant justify changing every 500 miles unless theres a problem.
Penny oil ultra is the best oil for the lowest price you can get. It’s just much much smoother and quieter then other oil.
Please do a Platinum vs Ultra Platinum comparison.
Not only Please but Pretty Please. 😁😁
I have switched from Mobil One to Penzoil Platinum to Pennzoil ultra platinum. Oil consumption with Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra Platinum is much less than with Mobil One. Thanks for the Great videos.
m1 = crap 💩
The most important thing in a car, is often the hardest to replace for many people. Change it every 5.000 and you are as safe as can be.
Great info! I have relocated in South Korea, where they chauvinistically champion Group 3 Base Oil and oil products (VHVI) that the domestic petroleum products manufacturers specialize on. Price is relatively low and quality is good, but unquestioning faith in the donestic/local products is a bit disturbing even if Yubase and other Korean base oils are commonly used.