This is one of the most needed channels right now in the automotive world. The amount of crap out there about oil is astounding. There's pretty much no topic that you could cover that wouldn't be relevant in some way to the discussions around oil. Thanks again for another great video!
@@themotoroilgeekwhat fuel dilution testing method does Speed Diagnostix use? GC or Flash Point? I was a longtime Blackstone customer until I found out on the BITOG forums that Blackstone's flash point testing method for fuel dilution is woefully low! My '22 Subaru Crosstrek boxer GDI engine is a big fuel diluter! At 3000mi I have 3-4% fuel in the oil. To do an experiment, I sent the same exact oil sample to Blackstone and Amsoil/Horizon labs. Horizon came back at 3.8% and was flagged, and Blackstone showed a crazy low 0.8% and did not flag it. Huge difference! I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Many others out there have experienced the same thing.
@@themotoroilgeekAs always great video ! A couple questions I have is if you have an oil filter tested and rated at 99%@20 Microns can it actually filter out beneficial additives ? As if 99@20 maybe it's 50@10 Microns or something like that?? So maybe not so great to go with 99@20 but maybe better to go with 99@30 or 99@40 ? Also at what micron size can or will some sort of engine damage start to happen ? Thanks again for everything you do !
I worked at NAPA for years and one of our good customers from a small engine/lawn shop said forever he has used NAPA full synthetic 10w30 in everything and has never had a problem.
Bottom line - USE A GOOD QUALITY OIL AND CHANGE IT EVERY 6 MONTHS OR 5,000 MILES WITH A GOOD FILTER. All of my vehicles get 250,000 miles plus without issues. I also change all of my vehicles fluids including coolant annually. No cooling, transmission, transfer case or axle problems is the result.
I change my oil right before it gets hot or cold outside. So every six months roughly. Miles and use could modify this. fresh oil for freezing temps and for hot summer driving.
All the other fluids sounds great,but I’m positive your coolant is being wasted by changing it annually. Unless you’re racing,or in unbelievable severe conditions,I just can’t see anything to be gained. JMO
@@D2O2 1968 Chevy Van, 1976 Dodge Pick Up, 1985 Dodge Ramcharger, 1985 Honda Accord, 1990 Chevy Suburban, 1996 Dodge Pick Up, 1997 Toyota Camry, 2012 Toyota 4Runner (current vehicle 130,000 miles). Never had a valve cover or oil pan off any of them. Never replaced a radiator or water pump on any of them. Never replaced or rebuilt a transmission on any of them.
@@richardstone5241 Thanks. So you have driven all those vehicles to 250k+ miles? I believe all those vehicles can easily go those miles without issue with even basic maintenance. I don't believe you would have the same experience with vehicles made in the past 10 years. Some of these modern vehicles require rebuild/replacement before their 1st, 2nd or 3rd oil change.
The bottom line: If a given oil (Mobil1, Valvoline, STP, Kirkland, Quaker State, etc.) meets the spec for a given car, there's no need to spend extra dollars if it's being used as 98% of the divers drive. I'd like to see a deep dive into oil that are made for motorcycles also.
Exactly. But, finding an oil that meets modern Land Rover, Jaguar, Volvo, etc specs is not so easy. So... makes life more difficult for sure...and almost forces Owners to the dealer.
to me correct me if I'm wrong but engines all depend on what they're made out of and how different lubricants agree better, don't ya think? zinc seems to be a good idea all the way around and of course heat factors. and yes 2 wheeler oil to see if there should be any differences.
Thanks Lake Speed, Jr. I worked in Industrial Lubricants at Mobil Oil in the 80's in applications (engineering), so I find your videos reaffirming and sometimes I learn new things. I new the Lubrizol Rep in those days, too.
Can you do a test on royal purple/amsoil, etc... the *boutique oils* if you will.. I get you do all the typical off the shelf stuff, but I want to see from someone with your knowledge giving us some real facts about them.
Great stuff. Would you consider testing and comparing 15w-40 diesel oils, such as NAPA, Delo, Rotella T6 and T4, maybe T5 too, Mobile Delvac, Valvoline, Castrol, and WM SuperTech (if they offer that product)? I think most of the big 3 truck owners (Duramax, Powerstroke, Cummins) use Rotella or Delo.
I generally use Walmart super tech synthetic and change by 5000 miles. Did two oil changes in the Honda odyssey with valvoline restore and protect as a trial and may continue with that oil for a few more cycles in that vehicle I have never been a name brand oil guy We run our vehicles until the wheels fall off and historically the engine is still running strong when the rest of the vehicle is worn out This channel has some cool insights into the world of lubrication Thanks
927 castro oil is the best clots oil is second there is video where they do the test and heat to friction and 927 castro is the absolute number one oil in the world for 2 strokes clots can't protect your engine at the same temperature, 927 castro can I run it on all my 2 strokes and the pistons look brand new when u take it out and look not the top but the sides of the poston!!! And at least 93 ethanol free or 100 blue fuel or 110 oct fuel if u use regular pump then u never needed to own a 2 stroke thats the truth and your 2 stroke oil is the only thing that keeps your engine alive !!!l
@@rickybailey7123Klotz, lol. But yeah, 927 is awesome stuff if you ride fast. IDK about slower woods-type riding, maybe just back off on the ratio. Even Supertech Synthetic two-stroke seems like good oil, add that to my carb’d four stroke’s gas and engines run clean, had one leaking float bowl gasket stop leaking. I think the E-10 gas is too dry for these old carburetors.
I’ve been using Kirkland oil for the past 3 years and change it at 3k miles not because it needs it but I like changing it. It works great for me at $17 with a OEM filter. Can’t beat that
Long ago there was a business in pointe Claire Quebec that sold you a lifetime oil. I was so curious and visited. He told me he was filling cars with straight PAO and then periodically have the customer return for filter change and top up. Amazingly his customers reported no problems.
This sheds some light on why certain oils like Amsoil for example, lack certifications. How ever this also presents a problem: How do we know an oil lacking a certification is because the manufacture didn't "follow the recipe" to improve the oil vs just trying to market an oil with a lower quality or incorrect additive package? Personally, I only purchase oils that have the certifications.
AMSOIL is of the highest quality and they elect to not pay the licence fees because every time a formula is changed or improved it needs to be relicensed/recertified/Paid. However that being said they do pay the licensing fees on some of their products. Basically they do not on their Signature Series top tier oils. Besides Dexos 2 Gen 3 & API SP, SP Plus, SN etc. are just minimum specs. So companies formulate to just so barely meet minimum specs. to make maximum profit from minimum investment. AMSOIL normally easily meets and far exceeds any minimum specs. They formulate to be the best possible with the best components for the long haul. It's been tried and proven. HPL- High Performance Lubricants are very good as well I believe but their prices are very high that I've seen.
In Amsoils case, they claim to meet or exceed the specs. Either you trust them or sue them for false advertising. My point is making false claims can be very risky and expensive if you’re knowingly misleading. I’m a dirt bike guy. KTM recommends JASO MA2 in most of their applications. The 2 was formulated for bikes with catalytic converters. It has low zinc to protect them. All of their bikes under 500cc don’t have catalytic converters. Amsoil states that it meets or exceeds the OEM specs. Amsoil knows this and that zinc is crucial in these overhead cam applications. My question is, why does the manufacturer unnecessarily recommend an oil that’s low in a well known additive that protects the upper valve train? Knowing what I know, I’ll trust Amsoil on this or go with Motul 300 instead of Motul 7100. BTW, KTM s larger catalytic equipped bikes are suffering from massive cam failures. Of course these cat equipped bikes run JASO MA2.
@@Papparratzithe reason is that OEMs are bound to warranty the emissions control system, of which the single most expensive component is the catalytic converter. So, the OEMs will do what it takes to protect the cat. If that means low zinc oil, then that's what it means.
Amsoil probably knows their main target customers do not necessarily care about the certifications / approvals. Porsche community certainly don't care about Mr Lake Speed's Driven DT40 not having the certification / Porsche approvals as DT40 seems to be popular especially those driving on tracks.
I’ve been learning a lot about lubricating oil from watching your videos and now I can’t wait to send my oil sample in to your lab for testing to see how my engine is doing using the oil package I’ve put together vs the off the shelf oil. Thanks for making these really interesting and informative oil videos.
This is great information as always. I have seen so many videos where someone just adds all the numbers up in a virgin VOA and thinks the higher total number is the best oil. Your testing shows that there is clearly more to it. Thanks!
Yes. Someone thinks they can figure it out from looking at specifications. It can someone started but if they don't test their claims don't have as much weight without a test.
Mobil1 EP is best of Mobil1 *full synthetic oils* . By far! Use that if you must use Mobil 1 oils. I've run Mobil1, Royal Purple & Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in my factory supercharged 04 Mustang SVT Cobra "terminator". Royal Purple & Pennzoil Ultra Platinum felt far better in the vehicle (4900orig mis). Always been sensitive to way all my machines perform.
Lake, dude, I tell you. If I were to see you and your enthusiasm, I guarantee you that I would have changed my education path. Literally, I’m here getting caught up in the process and getting carried away in the application. This really is so cool.
It would be really cool if you could make a video about motorcycle engine oils. More specifically, about the wet clutch spec requirements (JASO MA/MA2). How/if the limitation on additives for this spec this effects the overall quality, performance, longevity etc.etc.of the oil when compared with top quality car engine oils, and look at how/if motorcycle oils compensate for the absence of particular ingredients and what that means for oci. It's not something I've seen done before, but it would be very interesting to learn about and seems like a good fit for the channel.
Very informative, it backs up what I have been trying to tell people on the "Forums" and oil people know which ones I am talking about, that the "Boutique Oils" for daily driven street cars is not necessary. I as many others would state, use the spec the manufacturer states to use. I recently emailed a Boutique Oil company from the west coast (hint hint) about a product they are showing is VW 508 compatible. I was looking at the MSDS and other docs to see the additive pack in said oil and found that some levels were much higher in their oil that claims to be compatible vs the VW 508 approved oil. VW 508 is a 0w20 low to mid saps oil for DI/Turbo cars. My inquiries were around the pre ignition issues some DI cars have with certain levels of certain additives. The reply I got from the Boutique Oil company was odd. They claimed to have never heard of the Pre Ignition issues and they felt the additive pack had NOTHING to di with it. So right then and there a HUGE Red light flashing moment happened. So people you have to understand, Boutique Oils do have their place. It just makes no sense to me why ANYONE would spend $16+ per qt for oil when you can go to the local store and pick up an actual APPROVED Oil for you daily driven street car for $9 a qt or heck WallyWorld sells the approved oils in 5 qt jugs that brings the price down to less than $6 per qt. Why would you just waste all that money?? So information on this channel is very helpful in helping people provide that proof that common sense would tell you but you just couldn't actual prove. With this channel?? Now you have the proof. I do wonder where GTL oils fit in on this spectrum as they seem to be near the top of the class but are available over the counter. Its just too bad Pennzoil doesn't make a VW 508 approved oil. If they did I would try it out. For now M1 is in use simply because it meets the spec and I can buy it cheap. Hard to argue with that. As for testing the 40w for the Porsche? Its your car so why not. My only thing is, though it may be a helpful test for yourself, not many cars these days use a 40w oil. So I would like to see this test done with a 20w oil instead. That's just me though.
VW even has TSBs online that lists every approved oil and the approval spec number 502, 580, etc. It's a global list so make sure you're getting the actual right oil.
thank you lake for the very in depth analysis of how oil is made and improved upon. You really are answering questions it seems most people are scared/frowned upon for answering. Engines thank you!
Thank you for showing the differences from Boutique oils versus off the shelf oils. It's important for people to see what the difference is from "Good enough to meet the spec as cheaply as possible" which is your "off the shelf oils" versus a Boutiqute oil which builds their oils for "As best performance as possible which still meet the spec and often times exceed them". This is great to highlight companies like HPL, Amsoil etc. I would add though that some Boutique manufacturers like Amsoil have some of their line which is API licensed (OE and XL series oils) as well as higher performance lubricants (signature series) that are not.
Another great video. You may never run out of engaging content for gas automobile engines, but some of us drive diesel trucks. Would love it if you would address that segment. In this engaging video, you spent 20 minutes going through a lot of really great stuff and closed by saying...a) application drives oil selection and b) if you drive a gas powered street car, just use generic grade appropriate oils (which begs the question about why dwell on all the other great comparative tests you have done on gasoline engine oils...but that's another question). If "application drives selection" then.....PLEASE tell us how we can extend the life of our diesel engines? I'll bet you can get some new followers if you begin covering diesel.
When you go to visit Steve Morris, please ask him or be prepared to talk about his "Rev X" that he uses. Im sure Steve would like to know more about how it works as well as this audience. Thank you very much for what you do!!!
Awesome content as always! However, it would have been interesting to discuss why we should feel confident in the performance of unlicensed oils from HPL besides their own claims and hearsay. For example, what engine testing does HPL do (if any)? When they say something like an oil "meets or exceeds" certain specs, did they actually do the extensive engine testing to validate the oil's performance for each criteria of every spec they claim to meet in the same way the manufacturer would have and in the same engines? I'm especially curious since one of my main takeaways from your videos has been that there's no substitute for actual engine testing when evaluating an oil's performance due to the oil's interaction with different metals, various temperatures, blow by gases, fuel, moisture, etc and that counterintuitive things can happen.
Thanks Lake! Your videos are very educational. I've always been kind of an oil geek myself. I switched to Mobil-1 synthetic engine oil in my vehicles over 25 years ago. From what I have learned, Mobil-1 is not the synthetic oil it used to be and now there other brands that seem to offer better protection for daily drivers. I recently switched to Pennzoil Ultra Premium in my vehicles to give that a try. Maybe it won't make much difference. Here is a question that have not been able to find an an answer to. I have a Cub Cadet lawn tractor with a Kohler 24 HP engine. I have been using the same oil as my autos in it. I am a firm believer in synthetic oils and not so much in syn blends. I also have a 12,500 watt portable generator. I would like to use the best oil in my off road vehicles and would very much appreciate your recommendations. I have been told that I should not use automotive engine oil in my tractor and mowers.
Oil technology has come a long way over the years. I had an Oldsmobile Achieva that developed a water pump leak, which was inside the timing cover (stupid design). I discovered it about thirty miles from home. I stopped off at the next station, added coolant and drove home with my fingers crossed, just waiting for the engine to grenade itself. Got all the way home. The next day, I drove it to a friend's house to show them the oil/water mix on the dipstick. Drove it back home, parked it, and was able to drive it to the salvage yard after that for disposal. I was impressed with the oil so much that I stuck with the same oil to this day.
I've been binge watching this channel for several days now. Great work, Mr. Speed Jr.! This is EXACTLY the type of information we need - independent, technical, and data-driven. One quick request - I race dirt track go karts and, after absorbing a number of your videos, I realize these short track races at very high rpm (7500+ for my class) with unpressurized "splasher" 4-stroke engines are a unique application that calls for unique chemistry. Any chance you could address the specific challenges of engine oil used in non-pressured/non-filtered engines? On an unrelated note, for me, there are so many great memories of NASCAR from the 1990's, but the No. 9 Spam car is one of the best.
I just wish there was a list and you could say, I have this engine....and it would tell us, this is the best oil for it And we could use that oil from day one. Instead we're left to guess...and change it often. There has to be a better more efficient way.
Good points. Great video Mr Lake Speed Jr!! Yes, regular oils have cost and emissions as their main agenda. For a few pennies more and by unburdening themselves from epa, oils could be much better for engine life and efficiency.
Great to see you at High Performance Lubricants. Many of the top Outlaws use their oil which must work well with methanol fueled engines. Like you said, the right oil for the right application! Keep up the good work Lake!
Anyone else wish they had a tribology place near them and would start working there sweeping floor if needed to get your foot in the door after all the data and learning on the channel? If I had the money and perhaps was a bit younger, I'd go for it. Always wish I was involved in cars in a deeper way but didn't feel being a corner independent mechanic was the right path for me ... but I would've loved to do anything similar to Mr. Speed Jr. I'm sure like many people I wanted to drive, but I would've been happy being the oil specialist, fuel specialist, tire specialist ... even if it was for the last place team each season, more opportunities to make a positive difference! Bless you all, hope you are showered with joy every day and stalwart against tribulations.
I worked at exxon mobil labs but they mostly were working on ways to get more use out of crude oil turning diesel into gasoline with different catalysts.lab experiments with oil sand from northern canada stuff like that
First of all, Very interesting video, like usually :) You can be proud of that Yes, please make the 0W-40 you were talking about! Secondly, I have two things on my mind which I think would be interesting having you talk about 1. How does some of the German specs compare to each other? And could there be better alternatives? I myself have a Mercedes OM642 engine which, when new, called for MB229.51. It has then changed to 229.52 which is more oriented towards fuel economy(as far as I know). Engine builders in Germany who have great knowledge about this particular engine, claim that the oil pump deliver quite low pressure at about idle(lower than normal for the majority of other engines on the market) and that this can cause catastrophic engine failure. Thinking of this I try to pick a certified oil that has the highest viscosity at 100degC. What do you think? If there is an even better oil out there I am for sure interested :) 2. Shed some light on what makes a good bar & chain oil? I recall a guy adding tackifier to some leftover hydraulic / UTTO tractor oil, I think it was iso 68. He said he had great success with that. The price of bar & chain oil has gone up quite a lot. I cannot see any reason why it should be so much more expensive to make. I got curious and tried searching for tackifiers but didn't find any that was for sale in relative small quantities...
I would love to see someone come out with a range of oils with your boutique formulation and certify them. What about adding a bit more moly and maybe a tad less calcium?
Molybdenum forms a solid film on metal surfaces, preventing direct metal-to-metal contact during operation. Trade-Off: While this improves wear protection, the engine may be more prone to sludge and deposit formation without adequate calcium-based detergents. 2. Reduced Engine Cleanliness Impact: A reduction in calcium detergents could result in less effective acid neutralization and deposit control, leading to increased sludge and varnish over time. Why: Calcium additives play a critical role in dispersing contaminants and neutralizing acids from fuel combustion. Without sufficient calcium, these contaminants may accumulate, shortening oil life and reducing engine efficiency.
While we're on the topic of wishlisting ideas, I'd still love to hear from an expert on the topic of how gear oils got their viscosity rating versus engine oils, as in reality, the 'heavier' gear oils are nearly identical in that metric to a midrange engine oil. (in example an 80W-90 gear is most similar in viscosity to a 10W-30 engine).
Lake, Thank you for the education on motor oil. I was able to make a solid decision when buying high mileage oil today. I normally avoid them because of not really understanding the science and fear of the composition ruining my seals.
Great info Lake! My friends and I ride old air cooled 1970's motorcycles. (CB750's) I've found a lot of the modern oils cause problems in these old bikes. High milage oils seem to mess up the clutches and some oils just can't take the shear from the transmission gears. In only a few hundred miles the shifting becomes near impossible! Many of us found some "relief" by using diesel oils. I wonder if there's ever been any testing of motor oils in a motor lube / wet clutch / transmission lube application?
Instead of the Honda 10w40 oil on my 06 Rancher 420 electric shift, I saw on several forums riders were replacing with Shell Rotella T-6 synthetic 5w40 which is Jaso certified (same as Honda ATV oil) and thought I would try. So much smoother shifting now since using it. Research it you may want to give it a try if this is not the diesel oil you mentioned above.
Lake, I'd love to see a science-based video to finally confirm or deny the myths behind mixing synthetic and conventional oils, being able to use synthetic and switching back, and how synthetic "creates" leaks. Be a great video to show some of the old timers who come into my parts store with dated information.
It's not a myth. Most commonly, people use a conventional oil, don't change it on time, and it sludges up, and blocks oil from the seals, which shrink over time from lack of oil contact (due to being sludged, envieonment, etc.) When they change to a good Synthetic oil, the detergents and dispersants clean that sludge and expose the leak that was already there.
I had switched my '97 4 Runner from conventional to Mobil 1 within a year after I bought it. I let the engine break in which didn't take long since I was commuting with it. I switched to Mobil 1 and haven't looked back. I followed the factory oil viscosity recommendation. I now have over 430k miles on it and it doesn't use any oil between oil changes. I used to change it at 10k when I was commuting. But after I retired a few years ago I cut it back to 5k miles since I'm not driving it under ideal conditions anymore.
Yes - DO IT!! Now that you’ve shown the differences among these oils, your own special formulation of a 0W40 would be interesting to see. I’m betting on yours beating the competition
You were operating a little above my pay grade today...but I think I kept up! Your 'do not use racing oil in your street car' was directed at TRUE competition oil, Correct??? Valvoline VR-1 is what I use in all my classic cars and it's called racing oil. BTW a cost analysis would be a good video.....I know you are a chemical guy but compare of cost would be good. Thanks
I’m interested in Lake’s response to this. Is Vr-1 “racing oil” per Lake’s standards or is it marketing jargon and considered safe to use in a classic car or 1st gen Chevy engine during a cruising season?
Euro-spec engine oil is better, due to tougher and more extensive engine tests they have to pass. Example: Buy a VW 508 spec 0w20 oil (that also has the lower API SP spec), such as "Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20" (not their "AFE" version), and now you have a warranty-legal oil to use in U.S. or Japanese engines too, THAT Importantly has better demonstrated performance. Doing all this stuff where you concoct a new bespoke or not fully tested oil, just by adding a lot of cool ingredients that might interact with each other in negative ways, MIGHT work OK, but you can get to a higher performance level with European Spec oils (BMW, Porsche, Mercedes, VW all similar levels). All that said, for non-racing applications, it is hard to beat the special ability of Valvoline Restore and Protect API SP oil in keeping pistons cleaner, a nice innovation, so my 1st choice.
Hey Geek. Chicken or the egg question. Do engine manufactures design around oil effectiveness or do oil manufactures develop around engine requirements? The part of the video of the oil additive package folks using engine testing makes me wonder.
Jump in here. The auto industry and oil companies work closely together to find the right balance. The auto industry is dictated by the govement with CAFE RULES so they have to meet those requirments, to do this they have to design an engine to those specs then they go to the oil company and tell them they need an oil that will perform with the engine. So the order would be Goverment - Auto - Oil.
API specs have changed for engines that already exists so it seems like engines are developed and then the car manufacturer tell oil companies/so associations how they want an oil to mitigate potential problems with current engines and then oil companies design oils to meet that
Now you've got me thinking! I am modifying a Ford Mustang V8 (including Darton Honda K20 MID sleeves to bring the displacement down), and running a lean AFR with pre-combustion and turbo (similar to F1 approach, but planning E15 fuel and only 12 to 1 compression). Hadn't thought about oil yet.
And you’ll never go wrong with it. Just keep an eye out for when they run a promotion. $18.99 for a 5 quart jug , bought 3 of them for a years supply. 😊😊😊
@@Nel33147that’s what I’m doing at this moment. Monthly specials come in handy But their naps gold filter always says they don’t have it for my 21 civic And I don’t care for their lower end 6$ filter. At that point I’d rather get a a $3 super tech filter But I’ll probably end up getting either fram endurance or on Walmart online they have a pack of 6 purolator one filters for 40$ which isn’t bad
Lake could you do a video about molybdenum? Some detail regarding the history and development of MODTC, the use of molybdenum disulfide as an additive, etc.. Is there any place in modern oils for molybdenum disulfide?
Bottom line is use oil that meets the certifications your car wants (unless you're racing or otherwise have a very unique use) because the ingredients don't tell you how it will perform. Performance is what will tell you how it will perform and the certifications are the way you know it performed right.
Yes! Do the 0w40 blend for "Wombat" I think the 0w40 is the perfect blend for spirited road driving on stock engines with a premium fuel that can run year round. I am probably heading toward a castrol 0w40 edge or a magnetec product due to good ash, sulphated levels above the 800ppm that you get in mid saps EU oils. I can get a 1124 to 1240ppm ZDDP in some Castrol products.
This is one of the most needed channels right now in the automotive world. The amount of crap out there about oil is astounding. There's pretty much no topic that you could cover that wouldn't be relevant in some way to the discussions around oil. Thanks again for another great video!
Thank you so much!
@@themotoroilgeek Absolutely agree! Thankyou sir. 👍🏻 -Western Ohio
@@themotoroilgeekwhat fuel dilution testing method does Speed Diagnostix use? GC or Flash Point? I was a longtime Blackstone customer until I found out on the BITOG forums that Blackstone's flash point testing method for fuel dilution is woefully low! My '22 Subaru Crosstrek boxer GDI engine is a big fuel diluter! At 3000mi I have 3-4% fuel in the oil. To do an experiment, I sent the same exact oil sample to Blackstone and Amsoil/Horizon labs. Horizon came back at 3.8% and was flagged, and Blackstone showed a crazy low 0.8% and did not flag it. Huge difference! I'd like to hear your thoughts on this. Many others out there have experienced the same thing.
@@HoldenMcRotchAt SPEEDiagnostix we use GC to measure fuel dilution. We flag any gasoline sample that has more than 2.5% fuel dilution.
@@themotoroilgeekAs always great video !
A couple questions I have is if you have an oil filter tested and rated at 99%@20 Microns can it actually filter out beneficial additives ?
As if 99@20 maybe it's 50@10 Microns or something like that??
So maybe not so great to go with 99@20 but maybe better to go with 99@30 or 99@40 ?
Also at what micron size can or will some sort of engine damage start to happen ?
Thanks again for everything you do !
I worked at NAPA for years and one of our good customers from a small engine/lawn shop said forever he has used NAPA full synthetic 10w30 in everything and has never had a problem.
It's clearly the first channel that actually understand oil and the chemistry behind it. Pleasure to watch.
Thanks!
Yeah.....killer
Thanks Lake, for pulling back the currain and showing us how it's done!
These videos are the gold standard for oil nerds!
Oil nerds , car guys. Anyone who buys a car and cares about its longevity needs to watch Lakes stuff.
You need to offer T shirts that say "I'm a motor oil geek".
You've certainly hooked enough of us with your channel.
Hey , what are your thoughts on prolube?
Bottom line - USE A GOOD QUALITY OIL AND CHANGE IT EVERY 6 MONTHS OR 5,000 MILES WITH A GOOD FILTER.
All of my vehicles get 250,000 miles plus without issues.
I also change all of my vehicles fluids including coolant annually.
No cooling, transmission, transfer case or axle problems is the result.
Can you provide a list of vehicles you have done this regimen with and achieved those results?
I change my oil right before it gets hot or cold outside. So every six months roughly. Miles and use could modify this. fresh oil for freezing temps and for hot summer driving.
All the other fluids sounds great,but I’m positive your coolant is being wasted by changing it annually. Unless you’re racing,or in unbelievable severe conditions,I just can’t see anything to be gained. JMO
@@D2O2 1968 Chevy Van, 1976 Dodge Pick Up, 1985 Dodge Ramcharger, 1985 Honda Accord, 1990 Chevy Suburban, 1996 Dodge Pick Up, 1997 Toyota Camry, 2012 Toyota 4Runner (current vehicle 130,000 miles). Never had a valve cover or oil pan off any of them. Never replaced a radiator or water pump on any of them. Never replaced or rebuilt a transmission on any of them.
@@richardstone5241 Thanks. So you have driven all those vehicles to 250k+ miles? I believe all those vehicles can easily go those miles without issue with even basic maintenance. I don't believe you would have the same experience with vehicles made in the past 10 years. Some of these modern vehicles require rebuild/replacement before their 1st, 2nd or 3rd oil change.
The bottom line: If a given oil (Mobil1, Valvoline, STP, Kirkland, Quaker State, etc.) meets the spec for a given car, there's no need to spend extra dollars if it's being used as 98% of the divers drive.
I'd like to see a deep dive into oil that are made for motorcycles also.
Exactly. But, finding an oil that meets modern Land Rover, Jaguar, Volvo, etc specs is not so easy. So... makes life more difficult for sure...and almost forces Owners to the dealer.
to me correct me if I'm wrong but engines all depend on what they're made out of and how different lubricants agree better, don't ya think? zinc seems to be a good idea all the way around and of course heat factors. and yes 2 wheeler oil to see if there should be any differences.
@@moss8448 Motorcycles with wet clutches have unique requirements.
especially for air cooled motors, ie., older Harleys
@g-man8980 Brand had zero to do with it. Look at the bottle. Does it meet the required spec given by the manufacturer. Done.
Thanks Lake Speed, Jr. I worked in Industrial Lubricants at Mobil Oil in the 80's in applications (engineering), so I find your videos reaffirming and sometimes I learn new things. I new the Lubrizol Rep in those days, too.
Thanks for sharing
Yes, please proceed to further testing and more video updates.
Thanks from Australia
Yeh, I find it so confusing here in Australia, especially when looking at oils for VE commodore.
@@richard8181 Assuming it's stock, surely viscosity as per the owners manual and API SP?
Yes! exactly! I am always confused with our Castrol 5w30 A3/B4 here. It can't pass the API SN+ it is only API SL. weirrd.
Will do!
Hopefully the people that watch Project Farm "test" motor oil find your channel! This is GREAT stuff!
I'm one of them!😁
Me 2
Same here.
I'm one of 'em 😊
I’m one of them as well.
Oh yeah, 0W-40 special blend for your Wombat. Bring it on!
5w/30 for the Lizard
Can you do a test on royal purple/amsoil, etc... the *boutique oils* if you will.. I get you do all the typical off the shelf stuff, but I want to see from someone with your knowledge giving us some real facts about them.
Stay tuned!
Would love your insight on Amsoil, Royal Purple, Redline and compare to Driven.
And Idemitsu, too, please!
Redline 2 to 1...
most people say amsoil and motul are the top 2 oils out there.... i guess we may find out if its true.
My dad was a PHD organic chemist. He would have been glued to this.
NAPA oils are blended by vàlvoline , every other month the oil I need is on sale at NAPA , I change my oil at 5000 miles
Last sale was $18.99 for a 5 quart jug.
Stocked up on a year’s supply.
😊😊😊
Thanks!
Great stuff. Would you consider testing and comparing 15w-40 diesel oils, such as NAPA, Delo, Rotella T6 and T4, maybe T5 too, Mobile Delvac, Valvoline, Castrol, and WM SuperTech (if they offer that product)? I think most of the big 3 truck owners (Duramax, Powerstroke, Cummins) use Rotella or Delo.
I generally use Walmart super tech synthetic and change by 5000 miles. Did two oil changes in the Honda odyssey with valvoline restore and protect as a trial and may continue with that oil for a few more cycles in that vehicle I have never been a name brand oil guy We run our vehicles until the wheels fall off and historically the engine is still running strong when the rest of the vehicle is worn out
This channel has some cool insights into the world of lubrication Thanks
Could you do a show on 2 stroke oil. And does freezing weather Storage affect it. I love your show.
927 castro oil is the best clots oil is second there is video where they do the test and heat to friction and 927 castro is the absolute number one oil in the world for 2 strokes clots can't protect your engine at the same temperature, 927 castro can I run it on all my 2 strokes and the pistons look brand new when u take it out and look not the top but the sides of the poston!!! And at least 93 ethanol free or 100 blue fuel or 110 oct fuel if u use regular pump then u never needed to own a 2 stroke thats the truth and your 2 stroke oil is the only thing that keeps your engine alive !!!l
@@rickybailey7123Klotz, lol. But yeah, 927 is awesome stuff if you ride fast. IDK about slower woods-type riding, maybe just back off on the ratio. Even Supertech Synthetic two-stroke seems like good oil, add that to my carb’d four stroke’s gas and engines run clean, had one leaking float bowl gasket stop leaking. I think the E-10 gas is too dry for these old carburetors.
just use a FD rated oil, two strokes aren't that picky at all
I like lucas 2 stroke motorcycle oil.
Air-cooled or water-cooled (outboard)? Big difference!
Keep feeding my mind with the good stuff, bro'!!! Greetings from Puerto Rico!!!
I’ve been using Kirkland oil for the past 3 years and change it at 3k miles not because it needs it but I like changing it. It works great for me at $17 with a OEM filter. Can’t beat that
If it brings you joy, change it every fillup. Be happy
I change my oil every 500 miles ,makes me feel good inside
I rebuild my engine every ten miles
Mine ran on that for the last three years before I sold my 2007 Ram 5.9 Cummins.
3000 miles is good…500 miles or every fill up, just maybe a little excessive…just maybe!
Long ago there was a business in pointe Claire Quebec that sold you a lifetime oil. I was so curious and visited. He told me he was filling cars with straight PAO and then periodically have the customer return for filter change and top up. Amazingly his customers reported no problems.
This sheds some light on why certain oils like Amsoil for example, lack certifications. How ever this also presents a problem: How do we know an oil lacking a certification is because the manufacture didn't "follow the recipe" to improve the oil vs just trying to market an oil with a lower quality or incorrect additive package? Personally, I only purchase oils that have the certifications.
AMSOIL is of the highest quality and they elect to not pay the licence fees because every time a formula is changed or improved it needs to be relicensed/recertified/Paid. However that being said they do pay the licensing fees on some of their products. Basically they do not on their Signature Series top tier oils. Besides Dexos 2 Gen 3 & API SP, SP Plus, SN etc. are just minimum specs. So companies formulate to just so barely meet minimum specs. to make maximum profit from minimum investment. AMSOIL normally easily meets and far exceeds any minimum specs. They formulate to be the best possible with the best components for the long haul. It's been tried and proven. HPL- High Performance Lubricants are very good as well I believe but their prices are very high that I've seen.
In Amsoils case, they claim to meet or exceed the specs. Either you trust them or sue them for false advertising.
My point is making false claims can be very risky and expensive if you’re knowingly misleading.
I’m a dirt bike guy. KTM recommends JASO MA2 in most of their applications.
The 2 was formulated for bikes with catalytic converters. It has low zinc to protect them.
All of their bikes under 500cc don’t have catalytic converters.
Amsoil states that it meets or exceeds the OEM specs. Amsoil knows this and that zinc is crucial in these overhead cam applications.
My question is, why does the manufacturer unnecessarily recommend an oil that’s low in a well known additive that protects the upper valve train?
Knowing what I know, I’ll trust Amsoil on this or go with Motul 300 instead of Motul 7100.
BTW, KTM s larger catalytic equipped bikes are suffering from massive cam failures. Of course these cat equipped bikes run JASO MA2.
@@Papparratzithe reason is that OEMs are bound to warranty the emissions control system, of which the single most expensive component is the catalytic converter. So, the OEMs will do what it takes to protect the cat. If that means low zinc oil, then that's what it means.
@oneninerniner3427
Amsoil is fantastic oil. It's all I use, from car, truck, lawn mower, trimmer, etc
Amsoil probably knows their main target customers do not necessarily care about the certifications / approvals. Porsche community certainly don't care about Mr Lake Speed's Driven DT40 not having the certification / Porsche approvals as DT40 seems to be popular especially those driving on tracks.
Never get tired of this channel! Congrats on 125k subs!
Thank you!
I’ve been learning a lot about lubricating oil from watching your videos and now I can’t wait to send my oil sample in to your lab for testing to see how my engine is doing using the oil package I’ve put together vs the off the shelf oil. Thanks for making these really interesting and informative oil videos.
Thank you!
How much does that cost?
This is great information as always. I have seen so many videos where someone just adds all the numbers up in a virgin VOA and thinks the higher total number is the best oil. Your testing shows that there is clearly more to it. Thanks!
Yes. Someone thinks they can figure it out from looking at specifications. It can someone started but if they don't test their claims don't have as much weight without a test.
Thank you.. I’ve used Mobil 1 5w-30 in my 2004 corvette which I’ve had for 20years. 20 oil changes.
Mobil1 EP is best of Mobil1 *full synthetic oils* . By far! Use that if you must use Mobil 1 oils. I've run Mobil1, Royal Purple & Pennzoil Ultra Platinum in my factory supercharged 04 Mustang SVT Cobra "terminator". Royal Purple & Pennzoil Ultra Platinum felt far better in the vehicle (4900orig mis). Always been sensitive to way all my machines perform.
@@Davido50”felt better” lol ok. You’re the opposite of Lake. “Speculation over science”
Lake, dude, I tell you. If I were to see you and your enthusiasm, I guarantee you that I would have changed my education path. Literally, I’m here getting caught up in the process and getting carried away in the application. This really is so cool.
Thank you sir!
I don't expect Betty Crocker to market their premium cake mix as "Full Synthetic" any time soon.
😂
Oh yeah, high mileage cake mix 😂
I’m going to market 100% natural, organic, gluten-free, locally pumped, well-to-engine motor oil and charge $85/quart.
When is Pilsbury coming out with a Euro 5w40 Confetti cake (low saps)?
most of the food isn't real food to begin with, meaning it's probably synthetic food.....
Major oil companies make most of the “private label” oils
Another amazing and informative video! Thank you!
Will we ever see content on transmission fluid?
Yes, soon
USE AMSOIL- I CHANGED MY TRANNY 260,000 MILES FIRST TIME- THE STUFF WORKED WITH NO ISSUES.
You need to make or design your own brand of licensed oils. I would be the first to order.
I love watching because I know I'll never be a Lake, but I always walk away with a great nugget of info.
Fascinating mind blowing video, transparency and decoding is pure gold, thanks for sharing.
Thanks!
It would be really cool if you could make a video about motorcycle engine oils. More specifically, about the wet clutch spec requirements (JASO MA/MA2). How/if the limitation on additives for this spec this effects the overall quality, performance, longevity etc.etc.of the oil when compared with top quality car engine oils, and look at how/if motorcycle oils compensate for the absence of particular ingredients and what that means for oci. It's not something I've seen done before, but it would be very interesting to learn about and seems like a good fit for the channel.
That one is in the works!
@@themotoroilgeek Nice
I have absolutely no idea what's going on , but I appreciate the enthusiasm
Thanks!
Very informative, it backs up what I have been trying to tell people on the "Forums" and oil people know which ones I am talking about, that the "Boutique Oils" for daily driven street cars is not necessary. I as many others would state, use the spec the manufacturer states to use. I recently emailed a Boutique Oil company from the west coast (hint hint) about a product they are showing is VW 508 compatible. I was looking at the MSDS and other docs to see the additive pack in said oil and found that some levels were much higher in their oil that claims to be compatible vs the VW 508 approved oil. VW 508 is a 0w20 low to mid saps oil for DI/Turbo cars. My inquiries were around the pre ignition issues some DI cars have with certain levels of certain additives. The reply I got from the Boutique Oil company was odd. They claimed to have never heard of the Pre Ignition issues and they felt the additive pack had NOTHING to di with it. So right then and there a HUGE Red light flashing moment happened. So people you have to understand, Boutique Oils do have their place. It just makes no sense to me why ANYONE would spend $16+ per qt for oil when you can go to the local store and pick up an actual APPROVED Oil for you daily driven street car for $9 a qt or heck WallyWorld sells the approved oils in 5 qt jugs that brings the price down to less than $6 per qt. Why would you just waste all that money?? So information on this channel is very helpful in helping people provide that proof that common sense would tell you but you just couldn't actual prove. With this channel?? Now you have the proof. I do wonder where GTL oils fit in on this spectrum as they seem to be near the top of the class but are available over the counter. Its just too bad Pennzoil doesn't make a VW 508 approved oil. If they did I would try it out. For now M1 is in use simply because it meets the spec and I can buy it cheap. Hard to argue with that. As for testing the 40w for the Porsche? Its your car so why not. My only thing is, though it may be a helpful test for yourself, not many cars these days use a 40w oil. So I would like to see this test done with a 20w oil instead. That's just me though.
VW even has TSBs online that lists every approved oil and the approval spec number 502, 580, etc. It's a global list so make sure you're getting the actual right oil.
thank you lake for the very in depth analysis of how oil is made and improved upon. You really are answering questions it seems most people are scared/frowned upon for answering. Engines thank you!
Thank you for showing the differences from Boutique oils versus off the shelf oils. It's important for people to see what the difference is from "Good enough to meet the spec as cheaply as possible" which is your "off the shelf oils" versus a Boutiqute oil which builds their oils for "As best performance as possible which still meet the spec and often times exceed them". This is great to highlight companies like HPL, Amsoil etc. I would add though that some Boutique manufacturers like Amsoil have some of their line which is API licensed (OE and XL series oils) as well as higher performance lubricants (signature series) that are not.
It's really a pleasure to watch your videos. Science, not speculation. Cheers from France !
Great Job Lake! Make some of that 0w40 for the WOMBAT. Let’s see how it does…
I’m so glad I found this channel. Great job!
Well, this is just fantastic because I got a 2016 Chevy equinox, and this is the exact oil that I have to put in it
Another great video. You may never run out of engaging content for gas automobile engines, but some of us drive diesel trucks. Would love it if you would address that segment.
In this engaging video, you spent 20 minutes going through a lot of really great stuff and closed by saying...a) application drives oil selection and b) if you drive a gas powered street car, just use generic grade appropriate oils (which begs the question about why dwell on all the other great comparative tests you have done on gasoline engine oils...but that's another question).
If "application drives selection" then.....PLEASE tell us how we can extend the life of our diesel engines? I'll bet you can get some new followers if you begin covering diesel.
I will work on some diesel content.
I Love this stuff man!........Oil has come a LONG way since the 60,s....back when you had winter/summer oil that lasted 1,500 miles.
When you go to visit Steve Morris, please ask him or be prepared to talk about his "Rev X" that he uses. Im sure Steve would like to know more about how it works as well as this audience. Thank you very much for what you do!!!
never seen someone so excited about motor oil 😂 i wish school teachers were this excited about teaching
Yes that would be a great test !so many of us run 5w40 in half tone diesel engines thank you lake for all your support
Lake, that was outstanding information! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
0w40 in the Wombat! Yes please. This video was good stuff and much needed info for the consumer.
Request: 2-stroke oil review & test
Awesome content as always! However, it would have been interesting to discuss why we should feel confident in the performance of unlicensed oils from HPL besides their own claims and hearsay. For example, what engine testing does HPL do (if any)? When they say something like an oil "meets or exceeds" certain specs, did they actually do the extensive engine testing to validate the oil's performance for each criteria of every spec they claim to meet in the same way the manufacturer would have and in the same engines?
I'm especially curious since one of my main takeaways from your videos has been that there's no substitute for actual engine testing when evaluating an oil's performance due to the oil's interaction with different metals, various temperatures, blow by gases, fuel, moisture, etc and that counterintuitive things can happen.
The kitchen cabinets add to the cake mix analogy 😎
These videos are fantastic and much appreciated!
Another excellent report on why we like to know about the best "blood" for our engines and what makes them that way... Thank you
Thanks!
Thanks Lake! Your videos are very educational. I've always been kind of an oil geek myself. I switched to Mobil-1 synthetic engine oil in my vehicles over 25 years ago. From what I have learned, Mobil-1 is not the synthetic oil it used to be and now there other brands that seem to offer better protection for daily drivers. I recently switched to Pennzoil Ultra Premium in my vehicles to give that a try. Maybe it won't make much difference.
Here is a question that have not been able to find an an answer to. I have a Cub Cadet lawn tractor with a Kohler 24 HP engine. I have been using the same oil as my autos in it. I am a firm believer in synthetic oils and not so much in syn blends. I also have a 12,500 watt portable generator. I would like to use the best oil in my off road vehicles and would very much appreciate your recommendations. I have been told that I should not use automotive engine oil in my tractor and mowers.
Another awesome video removing the mystery behind motor oils. I have wombat as well and would be very interested in your formulation comparison!
Oil technology has come a long way over the years. I had an Oldsmobile Achieva that developed a water pump leak, which was inside the timing cover (stupid design). I discovered it about thirty miles from home. I stopped off at the next station, added coolant and drove home with my fingers crossed, just waiting for the engine to grenade itself. Got all the way home. The next day, I drove it to a friend's house to show them the oil/water mix on the dipstick. Drove it back home, parked it, and was able to drive it to the salvage yard after that for disposal. I was impressed with the oil so much that I stuck with the same oil to this day.
I love these videos, Lake. Thank you for all the great educational info. I always look forward to your videos.
Amsoil from the first change on my OB and all sampling comes back excellent. Amsoil now for 10 plus years.
I wanted you to bake a cake in an oil pan.
I'm hoping for a Duncan Hines comparison next 🙏
I've been binge watching this channel for several days now. Great work, Mr. Speed Jr.! This is EXACTLY the type of information we need - independent, technical, and data-driven. One quick request - I race dirt track go karts and, after absorbing a number of your videos, I realize these short track races at very high rpm (7500+ for my class) with unpressurized "splasher" 4-stroke engines are a unique application that calls for unique chemistry. Any chance you could address the specific challenges of engine oil used in non-pressured/non-filtered engines?
On an unrelated note, for me, there are so many great memories of NASCAR from the 1990's, but the No. 9 Spam car is one of the best.
Thanks from Australia well done 👍
HPL not available in Australia yet.
Finding the best 'chefs' of what is out there is a hoot and informative as hell.
I just wish there was a list and you could say, I have this engine....and it would tell us, this is the best oil for it And we could use that oil from day one. Instead we're left to guess...and change it often. There has to be a better more efficient way.
Good points. Great video Mr Lake Speed Jr!!
Yes, regular oils have cost and emissions as their main agenda.
For a few pennies more and by unburdening themselves from epa, oils could be much better for engine life and efficiency.
Lake, how about a vid on what happens to used, drained motor oil and how does it get “recycled”?
It keeps shops nice and warm in the winter.
Great to see you at High Performance Lubricants. Many of the top Outlaws use their oil which must work well with methanol fueled engines. Like you said, the right oil for the right application! Keep up the good work Lake!
Anyone else wish they had a tribology place near them and would start working there sweeping floor if needed to get your foot in the door after all the data and learning on the channel? If I had the money and perhaps was a bit younger, I'd go for it. Always wish I was involved in cars in a deeper way but didn't feel being a corner independent mechanic was the right path for me ... but I would've loved to do anything similar to Mr. Speed Jr.
I'm sure like many people I wanted to drive, but I would've been happy being the oil specialist, fuel specialist, tire specialist ... even if it was for the last place team each season, more opportunities to make a positive difference!
Bless you all, hope you are showered with joy every day and stalwart against tribulations.
I've worked in a tribology lab. It's interesting but a bit nasty. Everything, EVERYTHING is greasy or coated in oil.
I worked at exxon mobil labs but they mostly were working on ways to get more use out of crude oil turning diesel into gasoline with different catalysts.lab experiments with oil sand from northern canada stuff like that
7:14 Can you elaborate further on how using a BETTER base oil disqualified it from being API SP?
Its a good day when lake uploads!
First of all,
Very interesting video, like usually :) You can be proud of that
Yes, please make the 0W-40 you were talking about!
Secondly,
I have two things on my mind which I think would be interesting having you talk about
1. How does some of the German specs compare to each other? And could there be better alternatives?
I myself have a Mercedes OM642 engine which, when new, called for MB229.51. It has then changed to 229.52 which is more oriented towards fuel economy(as far as I know).
Engine builders in Germany who have great knowledge about this particular engine, claim that the oil pump deliver quite low pressure at about idle(lower than normal for the majority of other engines on the market) and that this can cause catastrophic engine failure.
Thinking of this I try to pick a certified oil that has the highest viscosity at 100degC. What do you think?
If there is an even better oil out there I am for sure interested :)
2. Shed some light on what makes a good bar & chain oil? I recall a guy adding tackifier to some leftover hydraulic / UTTO tractor oil, I think it was iso 68. He said he had great success with that. The price of bar & chain oil has gone up quite a lot. I cannot see any reason why it should be so much more expensive to make.
I got curious and tried searching for tackifiers but didn't find any that was for sale in relative small quantities...
I would love to see someone come out with a range of oils with your boutique formulation and certify them.
What about adding a bit more moly and maybe a tad less calcium?
Molybdenum forms a solid film on metal surfaces, preventing direct metal-to-metal contact during operation.
Trade-Off: While this improves wear protection, the engine may be more prone to sludge and deposit formation without adequate calcium-based detergents.
2. Reduced Engine Cleanliness
Impact: A reduction in calcium detergents could result in less effective acid neutralization and deposit control, leading to increased sludge and varnish over time.
Why: Calcium additives play a critical role in dispersing contaminants and neutralizing acids from fuel combustion. Without sufficient calcium, these contaminants may accumulate, shortening oil life and reducing engine efficiency.
While we're on the topic of wishlisting ideas, I'd still love to hear from an expert on the topic of how gear oils got their viscosity rating versus engine oils, as in reality, the 'heavier' gear oils are nearly identical in that metric to a midrange engine oil. (in example an 80W-90 gear is most similar in viscosity to a 10W-30 engine).
0W40 vs Ultra Platinum is gold!!
Lake, Thank you for the education on motor oil. I was able to make a solid decision when buying high mileage oil today. I normally avoid them because of not really understanding the science and fear of the composition ruining my seals.
Thank you!
Fantastic video! Would love to see a 0W-40 video...!
Great info Lake! My friends and I ride old air cooled 1970's motorcycles. (CB750's) I've found a lot of the modern oils cause problems in these old bikes. High milage oils seem to mess up the clutches and some oils just can't take the shear from the transmission gears. In only a few hundred miles the shifting becomes near impossible! Many of us found some "relief" by using diesel oils. I wonder if there's ever been any testing of motor oils in a motor lube / wet clutch / transmission lube application?
Instead of the Honda 10w40 oil on my 06 Rancher 420 electric shift, I saw on several forums riders were replacing with Shell Rotella T-6 synthetic 5w40 which is Jaso certified (same as Honda ATV oil) and thought I would try. So much smoother shifting now since using it. Research it you may want to give it a try if this is not the diesel oil you mentioned above.
Thank you for the video Mr. Speed. Provided the like right away!
Much appreciated!
Yes I think its a good idea to compare 0w-40 oil to the penzoil. This is my favorite channel already! Have a great week lake!
Wow, seriously one of the best oil vids ever.......thanks Lake.
Lake, I'd love to see a science-based video to finally confirm or deny the myths behind mixing synthetic and conventional oils, being able to use synthetic and switching back, and how synthetic "creates" leaks. Be a great video to show some of the old timers who come into my parts store with dated information.
It's not a myth. Most commonly, people use a conventional oil, don't change it on time, and it sludges up, and blocks oil from the seals, which shrink over time from lack of oil contact (due to being sludged, envieonment, etc.) When they change to a good
Synthetic oil, the detergents and dispersants clean that sludge and expose the leak that was already there.
I had switched my '97 4 Runner from conventional to Mobil 1 within a year after I bought it. I let the engine break in which didn't take long since I was commuting with it. I switched to Mobil 1 and haven't looked back. I followed the factory oil viscosity recommendation. I now have over 430k miles on it and it doesn't use any oil between oil changes. I used to change it at 10k when I was commuting. But after I retired a few years ago I cut it back to 5k miles since I'm not driving it under ideal conditions anymore.
'97 Japanese built Toyota ,enough said.
Yes - DO IT!!
Now that you’ve shown the differences among these oils, your own special formulation of a 0W40 would be interesting to see. I’m betting on yours beating the competition
Definitely do 0W 40 test please
Lake, good to see you still having fun in engine oil. I relinquish my title, as you have obviously taken over as the Oilgod! Stay well.
You were operating a little above my pay grade today...but I think I kept up! Your 'do not use racing oil in your street car' was directed at TRUE competition oil, Correct??? Valvoline VR-1 is what I use in all my classic cars and it's called racing oil.
BTW a cost analysis would be a good video.....I know you are a chemical guy but compare of cost would be good. Thanks
I’m interested in Lake’s response to this. Is Vr-1 “racing oil” per Lake’s standards or is it marketing jargon and considered safe to use in a classic car or 1st gen Chevy engine during a cruising season?
Cost comparison might frighten us all..😂😂
Absolutely, I would love to see a video and learn more about real world testing with a 0W40 blend.
Euro-spec engine oil is better, due to tougher and more extensive engine tests they have to pass. Example: Buy a VW 508 spec 0w20 oil (that also has the lower API SP spec), such as "Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W-20" (not their "AFE" version), and now you have a warranty-legal oil to use in U.S. or Japanese engines too, THAT Importantly has better demonstrated performance.
Doing all this stuff where you concoct a new bespoke or not fully tested oil, just by adding a lot of cool ingredients that might interact with each other in negative ways, MIGHT work OK, but you can get to a higher performance level with European Spec oils (BMW, Porsche, Mercedes, VW all similar levels).
All that said, for non-racing applications, it is hard to beat the special ability of Valvoline Restore and Protect API SP oil in keeping pistons cleaner, a nice innovation, so my 1st choice.
awesome! YES, we want the 0-40 creation and testing!! absolutely useful info for many of us who need to use 0-40 in some cars
You got it!
Hey Geek. Chicken or the egg question.
Do engine manufactures design around oil effectiveness or do oil manufactures develop around engine requirements?
The part of the video of the oil additive package folks using engine testing makes me wonder.
Jump in here.
The auto industry and oil companies work closely together to find the right balance.
The auto industry is dictated by the govement with CAFE RULES so they have to meet those requirments, to do this they have to design an engine to those specs then they go to the oil company and tell them they need an oil that will perform with the engine.
So the order would be Goverment - Auto - Oil.
API specs have changed for engines that already exists so it seems like engines are developed and then the car manufacturer tell oil companies/so associations how they want an oil to mitigate potential problems with current engines and then oil companies design oils to meet that
Just like Toyota and Mobil 1 making these thin oil weights.
True fact. The government is your engine's biggest enemy.
Now you've got me thinking! I am modifying a Ford Mustang V8 (including Darton Honda K20 MID sleeves to bring the displacement down), and running a lean AFR with pre-combustion and turbo (similar to F1 approach, but planning E15 fuel and only 12 to 1 compression). Hadn't thought about oil yet.
Can you do a video putting Amsoil through all your testing?👍
THIS!!!
This completely and utterly blew my mind. Great technical info though
In my Ford F-150 I use Napa 5W-30 full synthetic
Me too. 2003 4.6L.
And you’ll never go wrong with it.
Just keep an eye out for when they run a promotion.
$18.99 for a 5 quart jug , bought 3 of them for a years supply.
😊😊😊
@@Nel33147that’s what I’m doing at this moment. Monthly specials come in handy
But their naps gold filter always says they don’t have it for my 21 civic
And I don’t care for their lower end 6$ filter. At that point I’d rather get a a $3 super tech filter
But I’ll probably end up getting either fram endurance or on Walmart online they have a pack of 6 purolator one filters for 40$ which isn’t bad
6:46 Napa , Car Quest motor oils are repackaged by made by Valvoline. Fact.
Yes , exactly , though not quite the same additive package.
A very robust additive package , but not quite the same.
Lake could you do a video about molybdenum? Some detail regarding the history and development of MODTC, the use of molybdenum disulfide as an additive, etc.. Is there any place in modern oils for molybdenum disulfide?
Great suggestion
You are very informative explaining motor oils and additives! Keep up the great videos Thanks!!
Problem with long videos, sometimes you just want the basic facts and not all the details. So bottom line is.... ? 😊
Bottom line is use oil that meets the certifications your car wants (unless you're racing or otherwise have a very unique use) because the ingredients don't tell you how it will perform. Performance is what will tell you how it will perform and the certifications are the way you know it performed right.
Skip ahead to 18 minutes because that's when actually says anything useful. Damn he likes to hear himself talk. 😒
Amsoil is the preferred oil for Pleasure Craft/Ski Nautique motors, Briggs & Straton, Kolar lawn equipment and a pressure washer group of engines.
it's funny to me when a guy looks at the camera every time and remains frozen until the geek doesn't ask him something, then he unfreezes and wakes up
I guess some people just aren't born performers.
Yes. Bring on that 0-40 blend test.
Yes! Do the 0w40 blend for "Wombat" I think the 0w40 is the perfect blend for spirited road driving on stock engines with a premium fuel that can run year round. I am probably heading toward a castrol 0w40 edge or a magnetec product due to good ash, sulphated levels above the 800ppm that you get in mid saps EU oils. I can get a 1124 to 1240ppm ZDDP in some Castrol products.