7th gen is even worse when it comes to bleeding, with clutch line going all the way up and down around engine to the opposite side. Good tips, especially for blocking the slave. I've modified a C-clamp to accomplish the same thing you did with extensions, but also had to elevate the slave to be higher than master to properly bleed it & also it was necessary to bench-bleed the master. Otherwise it wouldn't even start taking the fluid.
Yeah . It does not want to accept the fluid unless you do that . Once you feel the pedal get firmer , its all good after. But you still have to release the pin for cmc , let it come out and let it suck in fluid , then pump and press again .
Pump the pedal , and make sure when you hold its all the way down . After you start to get pressure , you can remove the extensions as pedal is pressed down and more fluid fills slave . Then repeat until a firmer pedal is achieved. Good luck
Wish I had a friend like u who’s been around the block a couple times to help me . I’m due to do this soon and I’m just watching videos to make sure I have a better idea of what ima be doing .
Its not hard to change the part . But it is hard to bleed , the lines you can bend a little to install the part , so install lines first then push back in . Use the extensions to keep the pin pushed in . Then pump pedal up and down 10 times . Open bleeder valve all the way . Then close and repeat . Good luck !
@@JerryGsr sup bro . I already removed old Master , slave and line . Ima install everything new tomorrow with a stainless steel line . Wish me luck . I’ll come back and let u know how it went . Appreciate it !
How'd you do it? I'm thinking this same way with the line on the bleeder but instead of installing it on the tranny just have it up on the cowl and do the old pump method should work fine with the stainless braided line I'd assume.
How did you get your clutch pedal pressed down with the fork held with the extension? When I put the extensions on the CSC at the fork, I am unable to press the clutch pedal down as far as you have it. I'm only able to pump the pedal maybe half way down.
@@JerryGsr it was brand new, I installed a new cmc and slave and I’m having a hard time getting the system to build enough clutch pressure when bleeding the system
@@MrSmokeingood I’m running into this issue now I can’t seem to be able to bleed and get the correct pressure car drove just fine when I bought it raced it a few times then acted like it wasn’t letting me in the gears so I brought it home friend of mine told me to bleed my clutch After bleeding my clutch seems to be worse like the car won’t go into gear now
@@bryce_fa5si yeah after I changed my slave and master nothing changed, I ended up replacing the clutch and flywheel and it fixed the issue, at the bottom of the transmission there is a clutch inspection plate, take that off and you can see the condition of your clutch
Both . Kept it airtight in the nipple its smaller . Dont be afraid to open the valve all the way , keep opening until u see bubbles come out . U dont just open it a bit
Hey there, I just bled my clutch fluid system but my clutch went all the way down, but when I pressed that socket it started rising, but when I stop pumping it goes back down, any suggestions ?
Is that the same process for a 10thgen civic SPORT sedan 6 speed manual.....cuz my BRAKE SYSTEM light kept coming on and then they did "BLEED THE BRAKE SYSTEM" now my clutch sounds a little squeaky is that bad???? I got 24K on it
I used to do that with extensions too!!! Lol but now I just use a mini ratchet strap.... GREAT INFO!
7th gen is even worse when it comes to bleeding, with clutch line going all the way up and down around engine to the opposite side. Good tips, especially for blocking the slave. I've modified a C-clamp to accomplish the same thing you did with extensions, but also had to elevate the slave to be higher than master to properly bleed it & also it was necessary to bench-bleed the master. Otherwise it wouldn't even start taking the fluid.
Good video. Finna do this. I noticed your 'U' snap pin is not all the way down on the CMC connector.
Video helped a lot bro couldn’t get my shit to bleed after I changed out the cmc
Yeah . It does not want to accept the fluid unless you do that . Once you feel the pedal get firmer , its all good after. But you still have to release the pin for cmc , let it come out and let it suck in fluid , then pump and press again .
Im gonna try your method it looks like what you did worked. Also I agree one of the hardest to bleed the system. Thanks for the share.
Pump the pedal , and make sure when you hold its all the way down . After you start to get pressure , you can remove the extensions as pedal is pressed down and more fluid fills slave . Then repeat until a firmer pedal is achieved. Good luck
Thanks for da bud, I was wondering why I was having consistent issues with my pedal feel after installing the k tuned
Wish I had a friend like u who’s been around the block a couple times to help me . I’m due to do this soon and I’m just watching videos to make sure I have a better idea of what ima be doing .
Its not hard to change the part . But it is hard to bleed , the lines you can bend a little to install the part , so install lines first then push back in . Use the extensions to keep the pin pushed in . Then pump pedal up and down 10 times . Open bleeder valve all the way . Then close and repeat . Good luck !
@@JerryGsr should I bench bleed the master and slave before installing ?
@@white9th193 i didnt . I think you dont need too .
@@JerryGsr sup bro . I already removed old Master , slave and line . Ima install everything new tomorrow with a stainless steel line . Wish me luck . I’ll come back and let u know how it went . Appreciate it !
@@white9th193 steel line should be easier from what ive heard . Good luck .
Good video. I appreciate the knowledge.
Glad I can help . Like and subscribe
Good info details simplify
Thank you boss man
Here to help .
Do you think it would be easier to bleed with a steel braided line ? That and the deleted delay valves
How'd you do it? I'm thinking this same way with the line on the bleeder but instead of installing it on the tranny just have it up on the cowl and do the old pump method should work fine with the stainless braided line I'd assume.
How did you get your clutch pedal pressed down with the fork held with the extension? When I put the extensions on the CSC at the fork, I am unable to press the clutch pedal down as far as you have it. I'm only able to pump the pedal maybe half way down.
If your pedal is half way you have pressure already . Just give a few pumps and open valve . Air still can come out
When I did this the seal in the back of the slave cylinder blew out 😕
Probably slave going out already
@@JerryGsr it was brand new, I installed a new cmc and slave and I’m having a hard time getting the system to build enough clutch pressure when bleeding the system
@@MrSmokeingood I’m running into this issue now I can’t seem to be able to bleed and get the correct pressure car drove just fine when I bought it raced it a few times then acted like it wasn’t letting me in the gears so I brought it home friend of mine told me to bleed my clutch After bleeding my clutch seems to be worse like the car won’t go into gear now
@@bryce_fa5si yeah after I changed my slave and master nothing changed, I ended up replacing the clutch and flywheel and it fixed the issue, at the bottom of the transmission there is a clutch inspection plate, take that off and you can see the condition of your clutch
So did that little black piece help it be air tight ? While moving the valve open or just used it for space for the wrench ?
Both . Kept it airtight in the nipple its smaller . Dont be afraid to open the valve all the way , keep opening until u see bubbles come out . U dont just open it a bit
@@JerryGsr trying to find a part to replace that black piece you use bro not tryna cut off my fa5 one has 70k miles ha
I have 3/16 tubing that goes over it tight like ppl have used but it’s not tight enough like this in your video really picky with my stuff lol
@@aamirgomez1040 junk yard bro . They have a abundance
Hey there, I just bled my clutch fluid system but my clutch went all the way down, but when I pressed that socket it started rising, but when I stop pumping it goes back down, any suggestions ?
Pump up and down , lift it , like 10 times , open the bleeder valve all the way , until u see some bubbles. Press and close
Is that the same process for a 10thgen civic SPORT sedan 6 speed manual.....cuz my BRAKE SYSTEM light kept coming on and then they did "BLEED THE BRAKE SYSTEM" now my clutch sounds a little squeaky is that bad???? I got 24K on it
Yes. If the sqweek happens when you push the clutch , you will need the grease inside the slave boot . It's why I mention it.
Yeah it's a difficult job. But it needs to be bleed to insure proper operation. Fluid looked a little dirty.
You are right they are pigs to bleed i used my cooling pressure tester to bleed on my car
RSX Type s is a pain much tighter spaces
Post a video!!!
@@JerryGsrsame thing method but I had to go under
🙏🏿🙏🏿🙏🏿