I had an 06 FG2 that I drove the piss out of while in school. I remember that car fondly. Couldn't afford K Tuner or Hondata back then, so it's really cool to see someone doing exactly what I would've done if I had the funds back then. Good content. 👌
I have an 06 FG2 as my daily driver. I learned how to drive a manual on it as it's my first and only manual I've ever owned. Owned it since July 2022 so coming up on 2 years and I'm finally getting around to modding it. I already have the money saved for a skunk2 alpha header, hondata and stage 1 clutch. Already have a K&N cai and Yonaka catback exhaust that came with the car. Also going to throw in an acuity short shifter for good measure. I'm pretty hyped.
@@blackmetal4546 that's basically my setup on an '09, alpha header, 70mm s2 exhaust, s2 cai, hasport rear mount and hybrid racing shifter. tuned by vitviper back when he was doing hondata. fun stuff
For the seat issue, this was a big issue in early 2000s seats. I found a post on a forum that said to replace certain washers in place of plastic that might be there with bigger ones and then REALLY crank down the big bolts and use loctite (any kind probably works, I used blue, probably dont need red) to prevent them from loosening over time.
@@ApoqTF that it sure is. I just picked up a 99 Civic coupe with 103,000 MI completely bone stock looks literally brand new and so does the paint. Literally the only one I could find and my state without 200 plus thousand miles and a bunch of mods
I really liked the video. Especially showing some steps on installing hondata. I am really hesitant when it comes to messing with the computer, but this video puts me a little at ease. Maybe in the future, I'll get one for my 09 sedan. I don't like pushing my car too much, but it would be nice to bring down that vtec window. Hitting vtec once in a while is nice.
Since you’re not FBO, I don’t think you’ll see a big difference with Hondata. Once you go FBO then you’ll notice the difference between tuned and untuned
Honda put some rev hang into the car on purpose for the same reason the car has a clutch delay valve that reduces the speed that the clutch engages. It reduces the shock load on the transmission and improves your lap times on the track and it makes it easier to heel toe shift. It’s especially obvious if you run an aluminum findanze style flywheel. On my EG if I’m shifting from like 5k in 3rd to 7500K+ into 2nd depending on how quickly I’m braking then the instant I hit the clutch in the revs are just DIVING and because of that I have to stab the gas pedal extremely hard. Because of the light weight racing flywheel and clutch the RPMs will dive 2-3k RPM between the shift and I have to get them up 2-3k RPM higher than they were. Plus NORMALLY the car wouldn’t have a delayed clutch release valve either so any differences in RPM will have a huge effect on the car while it’s turning. I however do have an aftermarket clutch delay valve or clutch slipper. The clutch I have is designed around using friction and some slippage to engage instead of a ln incredibly stiff spring. That’s how the 8th Gen Si is set up too. The clutch slips. From day one. Don’t try to stop it from slipping either. It protects the transmission. If you ever get a new clutch goes with a brand that’s known for their friction plate design and not for having a heavier pedal feel. Clutch masters Stage 3 has been a favorite of mine for daily driving for 25 years. Anyways I wouldn’t do any of the things this guy did. I’d buy the Hondata, RDX injectors, flex fuel kit and something to keep track of your fuel useage as E85 ruins the fuel sender (thing that tells you how much fuel you have). But you don’t need that if you have an android auto or CarPlay radio. You can just install a Bluetooth low power obd2 scanner and then their are diag apps that are compatible with CarPlay or android auto that will trigger the software on your phone when your start your car and you can keep track of your exact fuel usage based off injector duty cycle which is more accurate than the stock 8th Gen fuel sender which says your are empty when you have like 1.5-2 gallons of gas left. Anyways I wouldn’t do this unless you were going to do something major. E85 will eventually pay for the Hondata on its own and it makes power with no other mods except the injectors.
Better to dump the clutch like the first launch than slip the clutch, that’s how your burn it. As long as the wheels slip at least a little that helps with the drivetrain shock.
I have a new Hondata. It has never been registered or hooked to PC. I don't have the car anymore. It is for sale. I also have a new SiriMoto 70mm Big Bore Throttle Body for sale. Fits 8th Gen Si. For Sale.
@@pattyboi What do you think of the 3.5" hybrid racing cold air intake for the si? It proven to gain a really solid boost in power and torque across the entire powerband plus it sounds sick. I have hondata and a short ram intake right now and while it sounds wild it heat soaks really bad like 100f IAT's in 40f weather bad. buying the hr intake soon but am curious to see what gains it really has on an otherwise stock car
Ha you indeed need a clutch, now. It's SUPER easy. Don't forget to pop out the old bearing pin* from the engine, don't reuse. (Exedy OE+ replacement) is the SHIT! my built k24a2 wot shifts, launches, extremely reliable. I'll probably see a healthy 60-70K+ from it. Cheers!
hey whats up i have a question i was turbo before but went back to stock but never played with the flashpro my self when i took out everything some one put stock tune back on but now i have one of the k&n drop in filters but i took out the resonator and i did a megan cat delete pipe and i might put my full race exhaust on again what calibration do you recommend thank you
I mean stage 1 should be good for you. I would just take a log to double check that everything is looking good before driving on it awhile. We found that my car was running super lean on the tuned map
Factory settings tune is way better in regards to the vtec placement, cam angles and ignition timing. Main reason why it ran slower
Wata you mean brotha ? You have my curiosity?
even if you have a header,intake and catback exhaust?
@@Buddyclub33 why
@@Buddyclub33 sameeeeeee
I had an 06 FG2 that I drove the piss out of while in school. I remember that car fondly. Couldn't afford K Tuner or Hondata back then, so it's really cool to see someone doing exactly what I would've done if I had the funds back then. Good content. 👌
I’m in your boat now🥺
I have an 06 FG2 as my daily driver. I learned how to drive a manual on it as it's my first and only manual I've ever owned. Owned it since July 2022 so coming up on 2 years and I'm finally getting around to modding it. I already have the money saved for a skunk2 alpha header, hondata and stage 1 clutch. Already have a K&N cai and Yonaka catback exhaust that came with the car. Also going to throw in an acuity short shifter for good measure. I'm pretty hyped.
@@blackmetal4546 that's basically my setup on an '09, alpha header, 70mm s2 exhaust, s2 cai, hasport rear mount and hybrid racing shifter. tuned by vitviper back when he was doing hondata. fun stuff
@blackmetal4546 how does the Yonaka sound I'm thinking of getting it?
No ur right the obd on the right side tripped me out, i was checking for codes and i was like no shot theres no port, then i checked the other side 😂
Intake and headers will wake it up even more. Cant wait to see how this build goes
Skip that and go straight for turbo :) Makes the most logical sense pound per horsepower by far.
And he sold it 😭
Header. Not plural as it's a 4cyl. 😅
You can adjust the launch control with the clutch in and press the accel + and the decel - buttons on the steering wheel
For the seat issue, this was a big issue in early 2000s seats. I found a post on a forum that said to replace certain washers in place of plastic that might be there with bigger ones and then REALLY crank down the big bolts and use loctite (any kind probably works, I used blue, probably dont need red) to prevent them from loosening over time.
Holy cow ive never seen seat so clean. And such a pristine steering wheel. How many miles?
It has 35,000
@@tylanbakardi2750 no wonder that is a gem dude
@@ApoqTF that it sure is. I just picked up a 99 Civic coupe with 103,000 MI completely bone stock looks literally brand new and so does the paint. Literally the only one I could find and my state without 200 plus thousand miles and a bunch of mods
@@tylanbakardi2750is this the one from bring a trailer?
@@mysticcrushgamers6736 I found it on marketplace surprisingly
I'm from Spain and I can smell you clutch 😂
Very pungent indeed
I really liked the video. Especially showing some steps on installing hondata. I am really hesitant when it comes to messing with the computer, but this video puts me a little at ease. Maybe in the future, I'll get one for my 09 sedan. I don't like pushing my car too much, but it would be nice to bring down that vtec window. Hitting vtec once in a while is nice.
You sound like someone I'd buy a car from
Also you sound like a complete push over
Since you’re not FBO, I don’t think you’ll see a big difference with Hondata. Once you go FBO then you’ll notice the difference between tuned and untuned
You notice a difference whether it’s fbo or stock, it makes the car feel more responsive right out the gate
it also deletes the rev hang
@@zoob4371thats all I care about
@@ghostpimpthis ^
I have a 2025 civic type r. Stock wheel hp is around 291. With just hondata and a Phearable stage 2 is around 381!
Honda put some rev hang into the car on purpose for the same reason the car has a clutch delay valve that reduces the speed that the clutch engages. It reduces the shock load on the transmission and improves your lap times on the track and it makes it easier to heel toe shift. It’s especially obvious if you run an aluminum findanze style flywheel.
On my EG if I’m shifting from like 5k in 3rd to 7500K+ into 2nd depending on how quickly I’m braking then the instant I hit the clutch in the revs are just DIVING and because of that I have to stab the gas pedal extremely hard. Because of the light weight racing flywheel and clutch the RPMs will dive 2-3k RPM between the shift and I have to get them up 2-3k RPM higher than they were. Plus NORMALLY the car wouldn’t have a delayed clutch release valve either so any differences in RPM will have a huge effect on the car while it’s turning. I however do have an aftermarket clutch delay valve or clutch slipper. The clutch I have is designed around using friction and some slippage to engage instead of a ln incredibly stiff spring.
That’s how the 8th Gen Si is set up too. The clutch slips. From day one. Don’t try to stop it from slipping either. It protects the transmission. If you ever get a new clutch goes with a brand that’s known for their friction plate design and not for having a heavier pedal feel. Clutch masters Stage 3 has been a favorite of mine for daily driving for 25 years.
Anyways I wouldn’t do any of the things this guy did.
I’d buy the Hondata, RDX injectors, flex fuel kit and something to keep track of your fuel useage as E85 ruins the fuel sender (thing that tells you how much fuel you have). But you don’t need that if you have an android auto or CarPlay radio. You can just install a Bluetooth low power obd2 scanner and then their are diag apps that are compatible with CarPlay or android auto that will trigger the software on your phone when your start your car and you can keep track of your exact fuel usage based off injector duty cycle which is more accurate than the stock 8th Gen fuel sender which says your are empty when you have like 1.5-2 gallons of gas left.
Anyways I wouldn’t do this unless you were going to do something major. E85 will eventually pay for the Hondata on its own and it makes power with no other mods except the injectors.
Raising rev limiter will need a gear change dude
It makes you faster because the next gear is in better powerband
Better to dump the clutch like the first launch than slip the clutch, that’s how your burn it. As long as the wheels slip at least a little that helps with the drivetrain shock.
4:18 scared the hell out of me
Does it include a tuned map for 2011 Honda CR-V 2.4?
I think dumping the clutch was just fine, you need to lower the launch control rpm if your tires can't handle it.
Did you get the race or carb flashpro
Hawk tuah on that clutch
Just get some sticky tires and stick with dumping the clutch you’ll launch hard af 😎
2:30 The S2000 has the OBDII port on the passenger side lol. At leas the AP1 does
I have a new Hondata. It has never been registered or hooked to PC. I don't have the car anymore. It is for sale. I also have a new SiriMoto 70mm Big Bore Throttle Body for sale. Fits 8th Gen Si. For Sale.
Whatchu want for that throttlebody?
$?
How much for the hondata?
RIP my clutch 😔
Hey that smell only comes on when you go in to vtec huh my car does the same thing it's like a oil burn smell kinda
Next mod need to be skunk2 header and motor mount then your car will be set, keep up the good work tho
There gonna be a lot of comments about that clutch 😂😂
It's toast for sure, that 130 ft lbs of torque is too much I guess
@@pattyboi lol
Nothing I hate more than doing FWD clutches
The Mk6 100% has launch control. Put it in sport, turn the traction off, full brake and smash the gas. It will hold at around 4k.
True, I was more of talking about my manual transmission cars
@@pattyboi You can just turn traction control off the button is right by the steering wheel X_X
@@pattyboi What do you think of the 3.5" hybrid racing cold air intake for the si? It proven to gain a really solid boost in power and torque across the entire powerband plus it sounds sick. I have hondata and a short ram intake right now and while it sounds wild it heat soaks really bad like 100f IAT's in 40f weather bad. buying the hr intake soon but am curious to see what gains it really has on an otherwise stock car
@@repingers9777 I bought it and am installing once it warms up a bit!
What is the difference between RACE and CARB?
One will affect the emissions of the vehicle and the CARB tune will still allow you to pass emissions
Ha you indeed need a clutch, now. It's SUPER easy. Don't forget to pop out the old bearing pin* from the engine, don't reuse. (Exedy OE+ replacement) is the SHIT! my built k24a2 wot shifts, launches, extremely reliable. I'll probably see a healthy 60-70K+ from it. Cheers!
Dont listen to your friend feathering the clutch while revving the shit out your engine will burn your clutch 🤦♂️
You blocked your VIN in one screen recording but not the other..
Stage 3 racing clutch
get a stage 4 clutch and a bolt on turbo kit you dont need built internals for low psi in a k20
You need a fujita
Bro didn’t know how to break it to u that that is was only faster by .4 seconds 😭😭😭😭
.4 is four car lengths in a 1/4mi race. For only adding Hondata! To me that is awesome.
9th gen best gen
hey whats up i have a question i was turbo before but went back to stock but never played with the flashpro my self when i took out everything some one put stock tune back on but now i have one of the k&n drop in filters but i took out the resonator and i did a megan cat delete pipe and i might put my full race exhaust on again what calibration do you recommend thank you
I mean stage 1 should be good for you. I would just take a log to double check that everything is looking good before driving on it awhile. We found that my car was running super lean on the tuned map
@@pattyboi that was with the boltons or no boltons and was it lean cause you needed maybe a fuel pump or injectors?
@@the_nene_feo7671 no bolt ons, just stock. The map was called "stock, tuned" if I remember
@@pattyboi how did you lower your v tec
i want to put my vtec at 4500 i think is perfect
Anyone know if it’s possible to use this on a Automatic 8th gen? Or there’s no point?
800 bucks!!! Anyone know where one could possibly get this cheaper?
800 bucks for what my man?
Hondata flashpro
F for clutch
F
Definitely not worth it imo